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Table of contents

1. South Central 44 routes in Area

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.589000, -34.855856

Description:© (Ashy)

For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.

The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.

So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.

Ethic: inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dickman And Throbbin

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

25 Sport 12m
2 ** The Duralax Kid

FA: Nick Sutter, 1992

25 Sport 12m
3 * Black Flag

FA: George Fieg, 1996

29 Sport 15m
4 * Black Rage

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

FA: Luke Magill, 2006

29 Sport 15m
5 ** Maintain The Rage

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

27 Sport 15m
6 ** Brown Badge

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Would easily get 3 stars if not for the big rest.

Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1994

27 Sport 17m, 9
7 * Sperm Bitches

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

31 Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Physical Graffiti

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

FA: George Fieg

31 Sport 15m
9 ** Plastic Exploding Inevitable

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999

29 Sport 20m
10 *** Ain't No Sunshine when he's Gone / Ain't No Sunshine

The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993

28 Sport 15m
11 Project Sport 12m
12 Crenshaw Boulevarde

FA: George Fieg, 1998

30 Sport 10m
13 Hats and Hoods / Crenshaw Extension

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

33 Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 ** Public Domain

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996

28 Sport 12m
15 ** Comin' At Ya Hyper

FA: Andrew Bull, 1995

27 Sport 12m
16 ** Red Baron

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

26 Sport 10m, 4
17 *** Dungeon Master

FA: George Fieg, 1995

31 Sport 20m
18 ** Mega Death

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

26 Sport 10m
19 ** Mega Death Direct

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

27 Sport 10m
20 * No Name

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

23 Sport 9m
21 * There Goes The Neighourhood

FA: Andrew Bull, 1992

24 Sport 9m
22 ** Scum

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

25 Sport 10m
23 Scumbag

FA: Zac Vetrees

29 Sport 20m
24 Scumy Sex

link up of sex machine into scum

FA: George Broadfoot, 2006

26 Sport 10m
25 ** Sex Machine

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

26 Sport 10m
26 ** Crime Is Art

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

23 Sport 10m
27 Two Bolts And Not For Me

Caution: Old rusty hangers have just about fallen out.

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

23 X Sport 9m
28 * Art Is Fucked

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

23 Sport 8m
29 * Hunted Child

FA: Stewart Wyithe, 1992

22 Sport 8m
30 * Strike

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23 Sport 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 * Silver Hands

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

19 Sport 9m
32 * Bag Of Sand

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

21 Sport 8m
33 KKK Bitch

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23 Sport 8m
34 * Itchy Quims

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

21 Sport 9m
35 Burping Burgers

FA: Veronique Hill, 1992

19 Sport 8m
36 * Poo With Me

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24 Sport 9m
37 ** Poo With Me (Right variant)

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24 Sport 9m
38 ** Word Up

FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993

24 Sport 12m
39 * Hard At It 24 Sport 9m
40 ** Dungeon Dykes

FA: Greame Hill, 1999

23 Sport 7m
41 ** Torra Torra Pass

FA: Veronique Hill, 1996

21 Sport 6m
42 Bush Bash

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

17 Sport 5m
43 ** Slippery When Wet

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

17 Sport 6m
44 ** Word Up (Direct Variant)

FA: Greame Hill, 1997

24 Sport 9m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
17 Bush Bash Sport 5m
** Slippery When Wet Sport 6m
19 Burping Burgers Sport 8m
* Silver Hands Sport 9m
21 * Bag Of Sand Sport 8m
* Itchy Quims Sport 9m
** Torra Torra Pass Sport 6m
22 * Hunted Child Sport 8m
23 * Art Is Fucked Sport 8m
** Crime Is Art Sport 10m
** Dungeon Dykes Sport 7m
KKK Bitch Sport 8m
* No Name Sport 9m
* Strike Sport 7m
23 X Two Bolts And Not For Me Sport 9m
24 * Hard At It Sport 9m
* Poo With Me Sport 9m
** Poo With Me (Right variant) Sport 9m
* There Goes The Neighourhood Sport 9m
** Word Up Sport 12m
** Word Up (Direct Variant) Sport 9m
25 * Dickman And Throbbin Sport 12m
** Scum Sport 10m
** The Duralax Kid Sport 12m
26 ** Mega Death Sport 10m
** Red Baron Sport 10m, 4
Scumy Sex Sport 10m
** Sex Machine Sport 10m
27 ** Brown Badge Sport 17m, 9
** Comin' At Ya Hyper Sport 12m
** Maintain The Rage Sport 15m
** Mega Death Direct Sport 10m
28 *** Ain't No Sunshine when he's Gone Sport 15m
** Public Domain Sport 12m
29 * Black Flag Sport 15m
* Black Rage Sport 15m
** Plastic Exploding Inevitable Sport 20m
Scumbag Sport 20m
30 Crenshaw Boulevarde Sport 10m
31 *** Dungeon Master Sport 20m
Physical Graffiti Sport 15m
* Sperm Bitches Sport 8m
33 Hats and Hoods Sport
? Project Sport 12m