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Description

The cave faces north and is so large that it never actually gets the sun. However, it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. It doesn't get as spoogy as 'Rosies' though, so its worth checking out even if 'Rosies' is a spoogefest. The rock is sandstone and very few (if any) holds are chipped.

Only the most classic and obvious, difficult boulder problems are described from left to right along the cliff and some of them are eliminates. There are plenty of easier problems to warm up on at the right hand end but they are not described here.

Keep an eye on the other crag pages in the Creek as various lines are being put up.

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Approach

Refer to map for 'Bomaderry Creek' Crags.Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes 'Highway' at North 'Nowra', just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 1st right which is Walsh Cres and follow it around until there is a bush reserve on your right. Park here and follow the track downhill for 30m. This is 'Mortein Wall', follow the track down past the cliff and turn right until you reach a huge cave with a big horizontal roof about 10m up. This is it. The bouldering gets harder the further left you go ...

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
V7 ** Highlander Boulder 6m

Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2001

2
V7 ** There Can Be Only One Boulder 6m

Far left bolted line on the face.

Set by Paul Westwood

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

3
V3 ** 60's Spiderman Boulder 3m

Sit start at the rail, big mantle up to the sloper. Then move up to finish with a big move to the hueco. The corner is often full of cobwebs but this is well worth quickly brushing them away.

FA: Jack Folkes, 23rd Jul

4
V3 Corporate Takeover Boulder 3m

Crimpy stand start, up on crimps and sharp undercut to top at flake and dirty edge (no match).

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

5
V9 *** Joe, Joe Dynamo Boulder 3m

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000

6
V14 ** Worm Boulder 4m

Start under the roof with 2 undercuts (RH on pebble), move out to the lip and then traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo".

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2006

7
Hard Project Boulder Project

Very crimpy, very hard looking project from the start of "Worm" straight up into the scoop.

8
Harder Project Boulder Project

Start of "Worm" right into "Pissy Missy".

9
V9 * Pissy Missy Boulder 4m

Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

10
Roof Project Boulder Project 6m

Link from the start of "56ft Back" and "Fed Ex" left along the low roof overlap and into "Pissy Missy". Ridiculously hard, looks in the range of V12-V13. Someone get on it!

11
V7 56ft Back Boulder 5m

Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof.

12
V11 Fed Ex Boulder 5m

Links into 'Special Delivery'.

13
Project Boulder Project

The lower link up into "Special Delivery".

14
V12 *** Special Delivery Boulder 5m

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

15
V6 Sexy Rexy Boulder 4m

Sit start on the overhanging flake. Move up the good holds then out right to the hueco and finish with the big move. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

16

Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

17
V9 Sexy Nuggets Boulder 8m

Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Pete Tosen, 2010

18
V7 The Seven Boulder 3m

Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

19
V11 ** Bread Boulder 4m

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left.Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Chris Webb, 2004

20
V8 ** Nappy Nuggets Boulder 4m

Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: George Fieg, 2000

21

Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

22
V6 Unknown Nuggets Boulder 5m

Start as for Unknown and finish as for Nappy Nuggets Traverse.

23
V4 Unknown Boulder 4m

Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish.

FA: Unknown, 2000

24
V4 The Dyno Boulder

Dyno from the 2 huecos to the jug.

25
V4 Indirectly Unknown Boulder 4m

Variant to Unknown. From the huecos, move RH to pocket and LH to good edge, nice move to jug and top. Probably first climbed years ago but good to have more lines recorded.

26
V5 Unknowingly Indirect Boulder 4m

Variation/link up. Start as for Unknown. From the huecos, move right through pockets to jug on The Crotty, then back up and left to jug and finish. Harder than Unknown but doesn't feel like should be V5. Probably first climbed years ago but good to have more lines recorded.

27
V9 ** The Crotty Boulder 5m

Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

28
V10 Crotty Pumper Boulder 4m

Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’.

29
V10 ** Stargate Boulder 4m

Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 2000

30
V10 ** Stargate Pumper Boulder 5m

Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'.

FA: Chris Webb, 2004

31
V11 Klockwork Orange Boulder 4m

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

FA: Toni Lamprecht/ Paul Westwood, 2000

32
V11 Klockwork Gate Boulder 4m

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

33
V10 ** I Want To Be A Gate Boulder 5m

Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'.

34
V9 *** I Want To Be A Pumper Boulder 4m

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000

35
V9 * Scrawny & Horny Boulder 4m

Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

36
V7 * NSK Boulder 4m

Head right from the start of the previous problem for some funky throws with big holds.Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

37
V6 ** Un-named V6 Boulder 4m

Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

38

Stand start and straight up.

39
V4 Juice Boulder 4m

Stand start on the lowest rail. Move up and traverse left to finish as for "No Discernible Graffiti".

40
V5 XD Boulder

Stand start and up via tough moves. V5-V6

41
V4 Big Red One Boulder 4m

Stand start on the jugs. Move right to the big flake then straight up. Slopey top, tough when warm!

42
V4 * Slopey Traverse Boulder 3m

Stand start on the jugs. Traverse right on the slopey break. Hardest V4 in the world... Can be done either direction.

43
V1 ** Two Big Moves Boulder 4m

Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up.

44
V4 * Burnt Boulder

Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps.

45
V3 Project 2 Nowhere Boulder 3m

Sit/crouch start and straight up via a tough move near the top.

46
V5 Harder Than You Think Boulder 4m

Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended.

47
V5 Undercuts I Think Boulder 4m

Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'.

48
V0 Jugs 2 Ring RHS Boulder 3m

Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug.

49
V2 I'm Old Gregg Boulder 3m

Stand start and climb the hanging arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

50
V0 Familiar Boulder

Undercutting stand start right of arete, move straight up via presses and ledges.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

51
V4 Swing Boulder 3m

Dyno from shallow jug left to ledge. 165cm

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

52
V6 * Spring Boulder 3m

Dyno from shallow jug straight up to top of ledge. Hard. 196cm

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

53