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Description

The cave faces north and is so large that it never actually gets the sun. However, it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. The rock is sandstone and very few (if any) holds are chipped.

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Approach

Refer to map for 'Bomaderry Creek' Crags.Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes 'Highway' at North 'Nowra', just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 1st right which is Walsh Cres and follow it around until there is a bush reserve on your right. Park here and follow the track downhill for 30m. This is 'Mortein Wall', follow the track down past the cliff and turn right until you reach a huge cave with a big horizontal roof about 10m up. This is it. The bouldering gets harder the further left you go ...

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Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2001

Far left bolted line on the face. Only been climbed on rope. Not yet highballed.

Set by Paul Westwood

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

Sit start at the rail, big mantle up to the sloper. Then move up to finish with a big move to the hueco. The corner is often full of cobwebs but this is well worth quickly brushing them away.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

Crimpy stand start, up on crimps and sharp undercut to top at flake and dirty edge (no match).

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

Stand start as for Corporate Takeover. Move up and right to top at decent edges.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2015

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000

Start under the roof with 2 undercuts (RH on pebble), move out to the lip and then traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo".

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2006

Very crimpy, very hard looking project from the start of "Worm" straight up into the scoop. Old Paul Westwood project.

Start of "Worm" right into "Pissy Missy".

Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Link from the start of "56ft Back" and "Fed Ex" left along the low roof overlap and into "Pissy Missy". Looks in the range of V12-V13.

Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof.

Links into 'Special Delivery'.

The lower link up into "Special Delivery". Worked for some time by CWP who thought it would be V14.

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Sit start on the overhanging flake. Move up the good holds then out right to the hueco and finish with the big move. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Pete Tosen, 2010

Sit/crouch start on big undercling. Big move out left to fridge hug your way up to the pocket then usual finish at the jug. Ledge on the ground is NOT in.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left.Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Chris Webb, 2004

Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: George Fieg, 2000

Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Start as for Unknown and finish as for Nappy Nuggets Traverse.

Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Dyno from the 2 huecos to the jug.

Variant to Unknown. From the huecos, move RH to pocket and LH to good edge, nice move to jug and top.

Variation/link up. Start as for Unknown. From the huecos, move right through pockets to jug on The Crotty, then back up and left to jug and finish.

Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’.

Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 2000

Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'.

FA: Chris Webb, 2004

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

FA: Paul Punk Westwood, 2000

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'.

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000

Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Obvious juggy warm up traverse with some crimps, starting as 'Un-named V6' and right to the start of 'XD'. V2-3 or solid V6 start for 'XD'?

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start on the lowest rail. Move up and traverse left to finish as for "No Discernible Graffiti".

Stand start and up via tough moves.

Stand start on the jugs. Move right to the big flake then straight up. Slopey top, tough when warm!

Stand start on the jugs. Traverse right on the slopey break. Hardest V4 in the world... Can be done either direction.

Stand start on Slopey Traverse and head straight up via pebbles and small sidepulls. Thin. V7+ maybe?

Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up.

Start at the ledge for Burnt. Move up to the crimps then left to the middle hold of Two Big Moves. Finish as for TBM.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps.

Sit/crouch start and straight up via a tough move near the top.

Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended.

Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'.

Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug.

The next few problems are located on the free-standing block that has fallen from the roof of the cave.

Stand start and climb the hanging arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

Undercutting stand start right of arete, move straight up via presses and ledges.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

Dyno from shallow jug left to ledge. 165cm

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

Dyno from shallow jug straight up to top of ledge. Hard. 196cm

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

Walk past Rosies to get to the next 2 problems.

Stand start at the slot and the slopey break, head up to the flake then dyno high to the pocket. Obviously, shelf to your left is out. 148cm

FA: Jack Folkes, 2016

Start as for Apparently They Can but instead of dynoing, head right via good crimps and finish back at the pocket.

FA: Duncan Brown, 2013

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lot 33 Bouldering.