A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Nowra 1,823 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.485715, -34.973729

Unique Features And Strengths:

The best sport climbing in the state. Sometimes ugly, but great climbing, with a huge variety of styles. Also home to some of the state's hardest bouldering.

Description:

Nowra is a fantastic sport climbing area, in quite a beautiful urban setting, with many of the crags sitting in valleys carved out by the Shoalhaven River. It is not unusual to park your car outside someone's house, then disappear into the bush, and 3 minutes later be at the crag. The climbing is characterized by being steep and powerful, there are not many pure endurance routes. While the climbing is not as visually inspiring as other areas in Australia, once you're on it's very good.

Nowra is a very comfortable place to climb, most of crags require a five minute approach at the most. All the routes are bolted with easy lower offs and the rock is generally very good. While Nowra doesn’t offer the casual café style that the Blue Mountains has, it is a good location for rest days, with reasonable surf only a short drive away. Nowra itself has all the amenities you would expect from a reasonably sized city.

For the beginner climber Nowra doesn't have a lot to offer, all the easier type climbs do tend to be the chossier ones, and there is very little below grade 18. For the intermediate to advanced climber however there is a lot of very good routes to do, especially if you climb 20+. The best crag in the area is Thompson's Point, it offers more climbing in a greater range of grades than any other Nowra crag. This is probably the best crag to visit if you are an intermediate climber. In the 18 to 24 range there is a plethora of really good routes, all well protected and ideal for pushing your grades on.

For the advanced climber there is loads of stuff to do. There are a lot of other crags apart from Thompson's, they are not quite so large and varied. The intermediate climber has to wander about a bit, but there are some real gems to be found. For the harder climber Nowra is a paradise of projects to do.

Apart from climbing there is also a lot of bouldering, a lot of hard stuff has been done at areas like Lot 33 and Cheesedale, with much more being developed.

All up Nowra is a great place to climb, what it lacks in presence, it makes up for in fun.

Approach:

Three hours south of Sydney. It’s easy to get public transport to Nowra, once you are there many of the crags are in walking distance of each other. If you're staying at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point it may be to hire a canoe to get across, which saves a long walk.

Where To Stay:

It is possible to bush camp for free, but you want to have found a very secluded spot- climbers' cars have been broken into. The best option is to pay for camping at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point.

1.1. Hospital Rocks 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.594043, -34.869171

Description:

Hospital Rocks is located opposite the hospital in Nowra. It has easy access and the routes are easy to set top ropes on. This makes it a good beginners area but also has a few harder ones for other climbers too. 2 minute walk in. Hot in summer. Watch for the Nowra Lads!

1.1.1. Slabby Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

The 1st cliff you encounter from the track. Take the first gully directly opersite the hospital and turn right at the bottom. The rock is a little soft and has been losing flakes for years making some of the climbs rather stiff for the grade.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mad Dog

2 bolts to chains.

FA: Nathan Bolton

21Sport 6m
2 Hair'o'tha Dog

Graded 17 ... going on 21!

FA: 's, 1980

17Sport 6m
3 Little Boxer Girl

FA: 's, 1980

11Sport 6m
4 Scarlet Dog

FA: 's, 1980

13Sport 8m
5 Scarlet Poodles

uses the lone ringbolt in the middle of the climbs for a linkup!

16Sport 10m
6 Crashing Poodles

FA: 's, 1980

15Sport 9m
7 Final Call

FA: 's, 1980

14Sport 9m
8 Dot The Dashund

FA: 's, 1980

15Sport 9m
9 Jesse Fetch

FA: 's, 1980

13Sport 9m

1.1.2. Steeper Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Walk past the Slabby Wall to the next little cliff. 1 minute.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 McFlurry

FA: Rod Young, 1999

22Sport 12m
2 Kwikgrip

FA: Rod Young, 1999

22Sport 13m
3 * Follow The Leader

FA: Rod Young, 1999

23Sport 15m
4 * Unknown Climb marked 'P'

Line of rings going straight up left of TG16 and right of Bamboozled.

FA: GHILL

17Sport 15m
5 * Bamboozled

FA: Alistair Fogg, 1999

18Sport 15m
6 Sword Swallowing Cum Junkies From Hell

Classic sand jug pulling.

Start: Right of TG at line of rings.

FA: G Hill

16Sport 15m, 6
7 TG16

All ring bolted classic

FA: 's, 1980

16Sport 15m
8 Nimrod

FA: Rod Young, 1999

17Sport 15m
9 The Grouch

FA: Rod Young, 1999

17Sport 15m
10 * Uncle Udfuddy

FA: 's, 1980

11Sport 15m

1.1.3. River Block 3 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

When you walk over the fence head down and right (instead of left to main area) and there is a tall butress visable.

Approach:© (Ashy)

When you walk over the fence head down and right (instead of left to main area) and there is a tall butress visable.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dancing Buffalo Man

Up wall for a couple of moves then reachy span to arête. Up to ledge then cool head wall above.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2002

18Sport 15m
2 Space Cowboy

Up flake to steep corner and ledge then launch up overhanging arête to lower offs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

23Sport 17m
3 Project Sport

1.2. Thompson's Point 355 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.575535, -34.871689

Description:

The best crag in the region for both the variety of routes and the scenery. Generally excellent climbing with something for all climbers... roofs, walls and slabs. New Guide book for Nowra published winter 2011.

Approach:

Follow Yalwal Road out West of Nowra following signs for the University. After a couple of kms, turn into George Evans Road signposted for the Uni. Straight through the first roundabout and again at the second. Follow the dirt road for less than a kilometre and take a right into Jonsson Road. Follow to the very end under the powerlines.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Love Parts

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994

18Sport 12m
2 Maturating Decompossional Gas

A bunch of roofy things. Generally fine climbing swiped off Fat Mark after he gave up.

Start: Left side of the cliff

FA: G Hill, 2004

21Sport 10m, 7
3 Open project

If you can climb it you can have it. Bolted with the idea that finger nails were expendable resources and that when you ripped them all off they would one day grow back. Don't bleed too much over the rock.

Start: Start as for the previous route, but then go directly up the slab at half height.

Sport 18m
4 Point Blank

FA: George Fieg, 1994

26Sport 15m

1.2.1. Thompson's Sunrise 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.578773, -34.872330

Description:

Interesting

Approach:

On the dirt access road to Thompsons Point - once you see the major overhead power lines (2 sets), park in the first car park on your right. Take the defined walking track to the lookout (steel wire mesh edged, just past the picnic table) then head east to the first descent gully

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project (Loop)

Climb 'Layback' but instead of mantling to finish , reverse climb 'The Edge'. To make up for not having to clip any anchors, to successfully tick this climb you must dismount the block and place both feet on the ground in an orderly fashion. Jumping off and rolling down the hill does not count. 7RB's.

Sport 11m
1.2.1.1. Lookout Wall 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Approach:© (Ashy)

Lookout Wall is located directly below the Thompson's Point Reserve 'Lookout' and is accessed by scrambling down the gully 10m right (east) of the lookout.

1.2.1.2. The Block Environs 7 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
1.2.1.3. Balrog Wall 7 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Approach:© (Ashy)

Balrog Wall is located 25m to the right of 'The Block' Environs.

1.2.1.4. Isengard Buttress 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Approach:© (Ashy)

Isengard Buttress is located 25m to the right of 'Balrog Wall'.

1.2.1.5. Sunset Wall 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Approach:© (Ashy)

Sunset Wall is located 25m right of 'Isengard Buttress' directly next to the Powerlines 'Access' 'Gully'.

1.2.1.6. Climbs To Delete 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

1.2.2. Indian Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574660, -34.869012

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tomahawk

FA: John Koster, 1998

21Sport 10m
2 Dances With Sheep

A pleasant romp on good holds.

Start: Start just left of the arete on teh left end of Indian wall.

FA: michael fawcett

19Sport 10m
3 * Don't Climb The Tee-Pee

FA: John Koster, 1998

23Sport 12m
4 * Red Skin

Enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start below the big cave.

FA: John Koster, 1998

23Sport 12m
5 ** Chief Pocahontas

FA: Stewart Black, 1999

25Sport 11m
6 ** Chief Of Commitment

A hell of a desperate number - especially in summer!

FA: michael fawcett

24Sport 11m
7 Geronimo/COC Link up 20Sport 11m
8 Geronimo

FA: John Koster, 1998

19Sport 8m
9 Little Big Horn

FA: John Koster, 1998

15Sport 8m
10 Shitting Bull

FA: John Koster, 1998

14Sport 8m
11 Project

Open project.

Sport 12m

1.2.3. Little Graham's Boulder 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574280, -34.868775

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Cheesy Noblicker

An enjoyable short route with an interesting dyno on great rock. Pity it's so short, add a sit start to make this climb a little more worthwhile.

Start: The left route.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1991

22Sport 5m
2 * Shy Romantic

Short but worthwhile, add the sit start for the full tick.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991

21Sport 5m

1.2.4. Descent Gully Walls 38 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574331, -34.869031

Description:

First area from the car park. Often packed because of the great selection of low to mid range routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Touchwood

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

20Sport 6m
2 Hard Knee

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

18Sport 7m
3 Puppy

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

16Sport 7m
4 Pete's Two Bob

4 or 5 moves on incuts

FA: Peter Van Klooster, 1999

14Sport 6m
5 Tony

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

FA: Sue Young, 1999

14Sport 8m, 3
6 Janine

FA: Rod Young, 1999

19Sport 9m
7 Lefty

FA: Pat Thompson, 1991

18Sport 10m
8 Spokeye

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

16Sport 7m
9 * Nimby

Somewhat desperate (for the first few moves).

Start: The first route to the right of the descent gully (facing the cliff).

FA: Mike Law, 1995

23Sport 11m
10 Alex The Kidd

FA: Ant Prehn, Alex Simon, 1990

21Sport 12m
11 * Sonic Hedgehog

An improbable looking blank wall. Don't break that pebble!

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1990

24Sport 14m
12 * Layoff

Start two metres left of SPK , moving up to follow the 5 RB's to anchor. Single U bolt lower off.

Stiff at grade 20.

FA: Venus Kondos, 1995

20Sport 15m, 7
13 ** Samurai Pizza Catz

Probably the most popular route at nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, Trudy Bretherton, 1990

18Sport 15m
14 Woderwick

Start left of the cave as per BD

FA: Sue Young, 1994

17Sport 15m
15 Big Dreams

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

FA: Sue Young, 2000

15Sport 15m
16 * Lucifer

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful

FA: Sue Young, Catherine Eadie, 1994

11Sport 15m
17 Velux

Just before the big chimney.

18Sport 15m
18 Very Blunt

links start of blunt into the finish of Velux, at least you can finish at the top of the cliff!

19Sport 20m
19 Blunt

Climb up arete left of SLH through mini cave to same anchors as SLH. 4 Rings to top.

FA: Ness

19Sport 15m
20 * Euphoria

The route left of Santas Little Helper, up through steep face moves to the fin shaped hold and continue straight up.

FA: Nathan Bolton

19Sport 15m
21 ** Santa's Little Helper

1 1/2 m right of left arete, up wall and them move left over cave and then straight up

FA: Sue Young, 1997

15Sport 15m
22 * Butt Head

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimmney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall

FA: Rod Young, 1994

17Sport 15m
23 * Barbie Twins

Very Nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

FA: Rod Young, Catherine Eadie, 1991

16Sport 17m, 6
24 ** Beavis

thin and balancy slab wall right of barbie twins

FA: Rod Young, 1994

20Sport 15m
25 ** Hang On

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimmney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux , then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

FA: Garth Miller

17Sport 15m, 5
26 Hold On

Start: 2 Mtrs right in gully finishing on "New 'Nowra' is Old news anchors"

FA: Rickster,Bundy,Big G, Trad dad, 2010

18Sport 15m
27 New Nowra is Old News

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, Rick Phillips, Big G and Jasper (Rick's Dog), 2010

17Sport 15m
28 Terrapin Tricks

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

FA: Rod Young, 2010

17Sport 15m
29 Hare Of The Tortoise / Turtle 2

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

FA: Rod Young, 2010

15Sport 15m
30 * Turtle Wall

Mantle (try the right edge), Up through cavelet, crux around 3rd rb and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

FA: Rod Young

14Sport 17m
31 Velvetine

Straight up as for Turtle wall, but in the cave go onto the right ledge and out right to the 2nd (or 3rd) ring bolt

FA: Rod Young, 1999

17Sport 14m
32 Slim Pig Games

FA: Wonderdog, 2003

17Sport 17m
33 ** Mad Hatter

FA: Rod Young, Sue Young, 1999

17Sport 20m
34 ** Maddest Hatter

FA: Rod Young, 1999

21Sport 8m
35 *** Cowboy Junkies

A total 'Nowra' classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a 'bit' of exposure.

Start: This route starts in the exposed cave above the mini wall, under the obvious roof.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1990

25Sport 15m
36 ** Potato Junkies

STart as for CJ but continue straight out of roof , exit out over roof lip and up left to anchors

FA: Rod Young, 1999

24Sport 10m, 6
37 *** Ten Gallon Rehab

Extension of 'Cowboy Junkies' following lip of roof to arete, then up to finish at 'Mad Hatter' anchors.

27Sport 25m, 10
38 Butt Rock

Up chimney tending left under the litte roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'.

14Trad 17m

1.2.5. Mini Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574190, -34.869124

Description:© (Ashy)

Very short poxy wall below the 'Cowboy Junkies' route. Some cool holds.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hyperactive Child

FA: Paul "Punk" Westwood

25Sport 6m
2 * Helensburgh Homo

Starts with a few long moves to break. At the break grab the undercling and crank to the top ledge. Lower offs further back on top ledge.

Start: Start 2m L of WATG

FA: 2006

24Sport 6m
3 * World According To Garf

FA: Paul Westwood, 1991

20Sport 6m
4 Portrait Of Rod

FA: Paul Westwood, 1991

18Sport 6m

1.2.6. Orca Area 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574148, -34.869246

Description:

This area comprises about 3 walls, with Orca taking on the prominant arete right of the big roof. The mossy slab has some newly bolted routes that will improve with traffic.The slab to the right is quite good and should be quite popular.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Ceiling Your Fate

FA: Ant Prehn, 1991

24Trad 20m
2 *** Orca

Optional friend to protect start.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Craig Paul, Trudy Bretherton, 1991

18Sport 25m
3 *** Korca

FA: Rod Young, 1999

18Sport 24m
4 * The Money or the Box

FA: Trudy Bretherton, Giles Bradbury, 1990

19Sport 25m
5 Left-hand Lichen / Right-hand Lichen / Project (Mossy Climb LH)

Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab.

15Sport 22m
6 Mossy Climb RHV / Lefthand Lichen / Righthand Lichen

Right line of rings up the lichen covered slab. Left handside also available.

15Sport 15m
7 Slap & Tickle

A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete.

FA: Paula Simons / Mark Ashmore

17Sport 14m
8 Hairy Harriet

Start: Start at the obvious cleft about 15m to the right of the Orca wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2005

16Sport 14m
9 Snoop Dog

Enjoyable stroll, with a tricky start. Will be better with traffic.

Start: Start 2m right of the previous route.

FA: Rod Young, 2005

17Sport 25m
10 LHV start to W.I.T.W

Traverse in for an easier route

FA: Rod Young, 2005

16Sport 3m
11 What In The World

FA: Rod Young, 2005

18Sport 16m
12 Heathen

Another good fun doddle.

Start: Start on the far right hand side of the wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2005

18Sport 25m

1.2.7. Alley Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574106, -34.869786

Description:© (Ashy)

An excellent vertical wall with a selection of very good routes. Very underrated.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Up the alley before 'Vanderholics' wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Me

The cute little arete. Start on the ground below the ledge. Take care or stick clip high first bolt.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1991

16Sport 8m, 2
2 * Smiling

Clip 1st bolt on Me, then move right and up thru some techy moves.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

22Sport 16m
3 Suze

Left of SM. Tricky 1st move

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

18Sport 14m
4 Slub Motion

Stay Direct. Soft !

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

18Sport 10m
5 Chully Bun

Up chimney, continue up as narrows. Can either set a trad belay, or continue up face and use lower-offs for Heathen around the arete to lower-off

11Trad 25m
6 * Tour Of Duty

Hidden Gem

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

19Sport 14m
7 ** Tinman

Probably 22 now that the boulder has rolled down the gully.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1991

21Sport 20m
8 *** Renovators Dream

Very good climbing, which makes you appreciate how average 'Killer Boas' really is. Superb friction.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

22Sport 20m
9 ** Up the Alley

Another total classic which deserves more ascents. Rebolted 2008

Start: Start below the line of carrots, a few metres left of the big crack.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1991

21Sport 20m
10 V Lix The Cat

FA: Venus Kondos, 1996

21Sport 15m
11 Alley Cat

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1991

15Trad 20m
12 Bombtrack

Looks bad, but is actually quite good - in an adventurous way.

Start: Start next to the path, just left of the mossy corner.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

18Sport 24m

1.2.8. Vanderholics Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574146, -34.869960

Description:© (secretary)

A lovely black wall with a big cave in the middle of it. Contains a number of good route.

Approach:© (secretary)

Just to the left of butterfly wall, or just right aroudn the corner from the Alley wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Iggy Plop

Choss

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 2000

23Sport 13m
2 * Wanker In A Whirlwind

Tricky start just right of arête. Up with a couple of committing moves to jugs. New bolts, new grade 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

23Sport 14m
3 ** Skippy The Bush Slut

A couple of random carrots that lead to no where.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1991

23Sport 10m
4 Skippy the Bush Slut RHS 22Sport 10m
5 ** BushDoof

Up small corner for 3 bolts (take care clipping the 2nd) to rooflet. Over the rooflet on small holds. Continue up on easier ground to some funky moves on the arete left of FM.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

24Sport 20m
6 ** Freak Magnet

Very thin start (careful at the third clip) consistent climbing up and through cave area, second crux is committing. Enjoy!!!!

FA: Rod Young, 1994

22Sport 20m, 12
7 *** Vanderholics

Beaut sustained climbing on lovely holds.

Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds.

Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1999

19Sport 25m
8 Gina Hardface

FA: Derek Morton, 1997

18Sport 15m
9 * David Blowfly 22Sport 11m
10 One Less Bitch 22Sport 10m
11 Cracker Jack

Major crack line splitting the face starting just right of 'Vanderholics' - a great trad route. Up crack for 10m to horizontal break, traverse right across 'Gina Hardface' and continue up corner crack above (ignoring the bolts). Rap off rings above 'Gina Hardface'. Medium to large cams.

18Trad 20m

1.2.9. Butterfly Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574141, -34.870080

Description:© (aca_admin)

The most striking and impressive wall on the crag.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

Immediately right of 'Vanderholics' wall and below the carpark.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Berserk Plumbers

FA: Mike Law, 1996

26Sport 15m
2 *** Butterfly Wall

The original start is now generally superseded by BWD

Start: Just right of the corner at a flake, as for BP.

FA: Ant Prehn

FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993

23Sport 25m
3 *** Butterfly Wall Direct

A beautiful route on great rock. Start: 5 meters right of the corner - directly below the obvious butterfly feature high on the wall.

FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993

24Sport 20m
4 Project Sport
5 * No More Gaps

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

30Sport 16m
6 *** Stone Roses

Fabulous, powerful and pumpy climbing up the amazing wall. Very hard for the grade.

Start: Start at the obvious mono, which can just be reached off the boulder.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1991

26Sport 25m
7 *** Concrete Petunias

Awesome hard face climbing up a steep prow.

Start: 6m right of butterfly wall. Same start as 'Stone Roses'

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

28Sport 15m

1.2.10. Gunbarrel Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574180, -34.870165

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Asta Lavista Baby

FA: Paul Westwood, 1993

25Sport 10m
2 * Planet Mossvale

Rebolted 20-05-2006

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

18Sport 28m
3 ** Birdsville Track

FA: Rod Young, 1996

20Sport 23m
4 * Diddy Kong Direct Start

Thin, crimpy and good technical climbing for the first three clips. Stick clip the first if your feet are a little unsure.

FA: Rod Young, 1996

20Sport 6m
5 ** Diddy Kong

FA: Rod Young, Sue Young, 1996

18Sport 24m
6 *** Gun Barrel Highway

FA: Rod Young, Sue Young, 1992

19Sport 25m
7 * Zulu Dawn

FA: Derek Morton, 1997

22Sport 25m

1.2.11. The Very Nice Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574186, -34.870311

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bumzek

FA: Michael Butzek, 1993

21Sport 10m
2 *** Pale Yellow Underwear

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

24Sport 10m
3 Stolen Property

Direct start to pale yellow underwear.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

24Sport 10m
4 ** Drive Bye Directe

Two bolts add a direct start to the fantastic drive bye. Start in the letterbox and get ready for some postage! This direct start avoids the big rest.

Set by George Broadfoot, 2013

28Sport 4
5 ** Drive Bye

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

27Sport 11m
6 A Nice Offering

First 3 ascents done on gear. Now has ring bolts. There is a small - fist sized - rock that is loose above the roof. One day it will be loose enough to come out. Until then take a little care.

Start: Climbs crack and peapod 4m left of AVNS.

FA: M.Hunn

18Sport 10m
7 A Very Nice Open Relationship

Open Project. Like the rest of the routes on this wall, it needs a scrub after rain. About 25 ???????

Sport 12m, 4
8 * A Very Nice Sausage

A tough thin crux, but not a bad route.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

26Sport 10m
9 ** Very Meaty

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

26Sport 10m
10 *** Very Nice Piece of Cake

Great climbing, and probably the most popular grade 25 at 'Nowra'.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1990

25Sport 10m
11 *** Killer Boas

A nice route - but why everyone thinks it is worth 3 stars we will never know.

Start: Start to the right of the blunt arete on the right hand side of the wall where there is a big chimmney.

FA: Andrew Bull, Tony Barton, 1991

22Sport 10m
12 ** Fattergram

FA: Mike Law, 1993

23Sport 11m
13 * Verve Noir

FA: Mike Law, 1994

23Sport 15m
14 ** Big Bad Voodoo Daddy

FA: Mark Ashmore

FA: Mark Ashmore, 1999

24Sport 20m
15 Not Very Nice

The chimney - on trad. Rock quality and gear questionable until the last 10m

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

13 RTrad 40m
16 Open Project Sport

1.2.12. The Pocketed Wall 25 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574096, -34.870644

Description:

When it comes to spooge, the Pocketed Wall is like the canary in the coalmine. Conditions here die a rapid spoogy death at the slightest hint of humidity, when other crags nearby remain perfectly climbable. As a result, either (a) you'll become a complete conditions snob and will bail the instant the dewpoint is over 6 degrees, or (b) you'll blithely persist ... and get massively spanked. But on the upside, the routes are great on a cool crisp day, and the Hustler roof routes are completely rainproof and spooge-proof so you can always get on those.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Murdoch the Horse Fucker

Hard an pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic nowra.

FA: Steve Barry, 1992

22Sport 12m
2 * Meaty Mesmo

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

22Sport 10m
3 ** Hide The Salami

From the ledge, pull onto the main face for a few crimpy moves then up past the slopey pockets to an exciting undercling finish!

Start: Start on foot of pinnacle. 2m right of MTHF.

Stick-clip first bolt.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24Sport 10m
4 ** With Pigs Blood

FA: John Passlow, 1992

25Sport 15m
5 ** Mesmo Butts

Follow line of 5 new rings. Still the same route. Hard and greasy. Might be better to join Hide the Salami at its last bolt and then up. This keeps you out of the gaping gash.....

FA: G Hill

24Sport 10m, 5
6 ** Butts Of Beef

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

25Sport 10m
7 ** Beef Cake

Clip the anchor for BOB then head out through the slightly sandy roof to an impressive arete. Blast up this and you're all done!

Start: Start as for BOB

FA: Simon Bell, 1998

27Sport 20m, 11
8 ** Chuck Steak

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

26Sport 10m
9 ** Fine Cuts

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

25Sport 10m
10 ** Nobody Told Me

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

17Trad 10m
11 Lick The Pig

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

21Sport 10m
12 We Do Okay

Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

24Sport 10m, 4
13 * Je Baise Ma Fraigne

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

21Sport 21m
14 *** Electro Rooter

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

22Sport 12m
15 * Hustle The Love Muscle

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.

FA: Paul Meharg, 2006

25Sport 24m
16 ** Muscle Hustler

The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are.

Start: Start on the very right hand side of the pocket wall. Now with permadraws.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1991

26Sport 35m
17 ** The Hustler

Now with permadraws in the roof. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

24Sport 28m
18 * Wank Skunk

FA: Paul Westwood, 1993

26Sport 6m
19 * Fuck Art, Lets Dance

Same start as Peacocks after second ring follow fixed brackets heading left. Anchors and abseil same as Peacocks.

FA: Boyd Robinson, 2007

20Sport 15m
20 ** Peacocks

This is a rap-in route left of Picture This with new rap-in anchors to semi-hanging belay. If you are worried about run-outs then pack a #1 Wild Country friend and a blue zero. AWESOME Route!!!!

FA: Marcus Loane and Boydo, 2007

21Sport 15m
21 * Picture This

Optional friend.

FA: Boyd Robertson, 1993

19Sport 12m
22 * Muscle Hustler 2nd pitch

FA: Ant Prehn, 1991

23Sport 15m
23 * Cerin's Debut

Caution! Old homemade hangers.

FA: Roy Fryer, Cerin McMillan, Bob McMillan, 1996

15Sport 25m
24 * Traditional Evolution

FA: Roy Fryer, Bob McMillan, 1998

20Sport 25m
25 * Beef Curtains 24Sport 10m

1.2.13. Little Grease Cave 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574035, -34.870950

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Mosquito Slap

A classic bit of exposure. Was once three stars when you caould hang by one arm from the chicken-head - only worth 1 star now that sombody snapped it off.

Watch the rope length when lowering.

Start: Start by walking up the track to the left of the little grease cave.

FA: Chris van Der Reyt, Simon Bell, 1996

21 RSport 30m
2 Narcosis

FA: Julian Saunders, 1996

30Sport 10m
3 *** Slapping the narcoleptic

climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun!

Start: as for narcosis

FA: vince day, 2006

31Sport 10m, 4
4 ** Baby Just Don't Bite It

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

28Sport 11m
5 ** Slip Slop Slap

A perfect boulder problem on a rope. Three moves to glory... slip, slop, slap.

FA: Steve Bullen

30Sport 10m
6 Ram Rod

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

25Sport 8m
7 ** Young And Dumb / Young, Dumb And Full Of Cum

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

25Sport 15m
8 Pretty Vacant

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1990

23Trad 25m

1.2.14. The Grease Cave 35 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.573977, -34.871062

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Inflatey Katey

Good fun. If you get the right beta, it feels more like 25.

FA: John Passlow, 1992

26Sport 12m
2 ** Sex Kitten

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991

27Sport 12m
3 *** Top One Thommo

This route is an absolute blast and a NSW classic. It climbs the longest line through the massive roof. 'Excellent'.

Start: Start up the corner and slab on the left hand side of the Grease Cave.

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

27Sport 15m
4 ** Thommo Slips It In

Links Top one Thommo into 'Slip It In'. Apparently you traverse right out of TOT before its crux, and then finish up the redpoint crux of SII.

28Sport 20m
5 ** Blowing On The Ceiling

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

26Sport 12m
6 Pass The Tissues

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

29Sport 8m
7 ** Say You Don't Want It

A savage little number with a very hard crux.

FA: Steve Bullen, 1994

28Sport 9m
8 *** Say You Don't Want To Slip It In

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

30Sport 17m
9 ** Slip It In

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

29Sport 15m
10 * Caught In The Act

Given 27 in the 2011 Nowra guide.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

27Sport 15m
11 * Lost Weekends

FA: Giles Bradbury, Ant Prehn, 1991

26Sport 15m
12 * Lust for Life

Link-up with good (but safe) air potential.

Start: Start as for 'Lost Weekends'.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1995

25Sport 7m
13 ** Lost Virginity

An old Wishart project.

Start: As for 'Lost Weekend' then out the roof on the flake.

FA: S.Gardner, 2006

28Sport 20m
14 Love Bug

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

27Sport 10m
15 ** Sexy Is The Word

Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon.

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

31Sport 10m
16 Sexy Skin Trash

Link Up - Start up Sexy is the word, cross though skin to skin and finish up 'White Trash'

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

28Sport 15m
17 *** Stamp Tramp

As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend rightwards to join the traverse on skin to skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!!

Start: Up either White Trash or Sexy Is The Word.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2007

32Sport 16m
18 The Woman In White

White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 2014

32Sport
19 ** Skin To Skin

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

29Sport 10m
20 ** White Trash

FA: George Fieg, 1993

27Sport 10m
21 ** Vehicle Of Hate

A good fun boulder problem. The 'problem' is clipping all the bolts! A hard one to grade.

FA: Dave Filan, 1993

28Sport 8m
22 *** Pulling On the Porcelain

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23Sport 12m
23 ** Enter Sandman

FA: Julian Saunders, Simon Atkins, 1992

24Sport 12m
24 ** Sentimental Hygiene

FA: Glenn Jones, 1999

23Sport 25m
25 *** Shufflepuff

A route every wannabe should climb. Not your average 21, but a worthy journey.

FA: Mike Law, 1992

21Sport 10m
26 Crimper

Take brackets.

FA: Garth Miller, Paul Watkins, 1991

20Sport 25m
27 * Bitter Lemon

FA: Sue Young, Catherine Eadie, 1991

17Sport 6m
28 * Sour Grapes 15Sport 6m
29 *** Frig The Pig / Left Corner(This is Frig the Pig)

A nice line with good climbing, but quite a tricky cruxy. Might be reachy for some.

Start: Up the left hand corner in the alcove.

FA: G Hill This is Frig the Pig

FA: G Hill

21Sport 15m
30 * Fuck The Duck

Interesting slabbing. This route should be everyones cup of tea as it takes no power or endurance just a bit of stick. So give it to it.

Start: As for FTP. In the corner.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 18m
31 ** Apology For Pleasure

FA: Mike Ellims, 1989

21Trad 15m
32 * Bitches With Balls

A push over for the grade. Soft as slime.

Start: On the wall just left of the arete.

FA: Graeme Hill

23Sport 12m
33 * Scabfest

A ripper of a climb. Ripping your finger nails off will be its legacy if you have the balls to try it. Short and a little stiff like the Japanese.

Start: At little weakness in wall a few meters right of BwB arete

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

21Sport 6m
34 * Bullwinkle

Bit dirty FA: Rod Young

FA: Rod Young

17Sport 15m
35 * Black Adder

Nice slabby moves FA: Rod Young

FA: Rod Young

18Sport 15m

1.2.15. Betty Blue Area 29 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574078, -34.871927

Description:© (secretary)

A great looking wall with a variety of good routes.

Approach:© (secretary)

30m past the grease cave - this is pretty much the last area before the wastelands.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Real Buggers Don't Die

FA: Graeme Hill, 1991

21Sport 12m
2 ** Broken And Barbed

FA: Dave Filan, David Haines, 1989

21Sport 18m
3 * Evil Bumfukbabe

Hard move guards the anchors. Rebolted 2012

FA: Karl Schultz, 1993

23Sport 10m
4 ** Instant Death

Dangerous protection.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1991

25Sport 20m
5 Roger That

The obvious sandy corner crack left of NASAS. Natural gear. use anchors to left to lower off.

FA: David O'Donnell , Ryan Kelly, 2004

16Trad 12m
6 Not As Steep As Some

Start: Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt.

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1992

18Sport 8m
7 Petit Miam

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1992

16Sport 8m
8 ** The Big Shlong

FA: George Fieg, 1993

27Sport 20m
9 ** The Big Kahoona

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

24Sport 20m
10 ** The Big Wank

FA: Andrew Bull, 1996

26Sport 20m
11 * Jugzilla pitch 1

Up wall to belay stance below roof.

Start: Start 5m right of 'PM'

FA: M Law

22Sport 10m
12 ** Jugzilla

From the belay head diagonally out left through the roof to a break. Traverse back right a little and up final head wall.

Start: Start at the belay above 'JP1'.

FA: Mike Law, 2003

27Sport 22m
13 ** Funkenstein

Straight out roof, traverse left to rest then nice face climbing to finish with hands on top of cliff.

Start: Start as for 'J'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

26Sport 25m
14 *** Speed Boat Wankers

FA: Tony Barton, Andrew Bull, 1991

23Sport 25m
15 ** Shifting Sands

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

21Sport 15m
16 *** A Day at the Beach

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

21Sport 15m
17 * A Day with the Beast

Having climbed 'ADATB' traverse left across the lip of the roof all the way to the far end. CAUTION: Be careful when getting lowered that the rope is long enough to get you back to the ground.

Start: Start as for 'ADATB'.

FA: M Law

26Sport 30m
18 Vague Flake

Climb the funky flakes left of kicking dogs balls. Rebolted and extended 23/6/12

FA: Unknown, 2000

21Sport 15m
19 Kicking Dogs Balls

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1992

17Sport 8m
20 ** Silly Putty

FA: Mike Law, 1995

24Sport 20m
21 ** Black Beddy

Clip first bolt on 'Betty Blue' and head left. Crank up on the crimpers to the final throw making sure to take a few whips for the camera along the way!

Start: Start at 'Betty Blue'

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

23Sport 8m
22 *** Betty Blue

A very appealing wall. One of the most enjoyable routes at its grade in 'Nowra'.

Start: Start a few meters right of 'Black Beddy'.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1991

24Sport 20m
23 ** Tickled Pink

Straight up the groove, then slightly left and up to a great jug rest. Recover and fire out the airy crux.

Start: Start 2m left of SL at slight groove New anchour 23/6/2012

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

25Sport 10m
24 ** Tickled Pink Potty Mouth Princess

Extension of 'TP'.

FA: Mitch Warren

27Sport 18m
25 *** Still Life

Classic 'Nowra' arete - which is hard and pumpy.

Start: Start at the obvious arete to the right of 'TP'. Some people do an easier start on the face a few metres left of the arete proper.

FA: Giles Bradbury, Ant Prehn, 1990

23Sport 10m
26 *** Still Life With Chalk Bag

An absolute ripper of a climb and totally different to the typical 'Nowra' power mutant hard stuff.

Start: Start on ledge above 'SL'

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1992

26Sport 20m
27 ** Secret Womans Business

Climb the black slab around the arete right of 'SL'

FA: L Wishart

27Sport 20m
28 Exfoliator

4 RB's to lower off.

Start: Wall 5m right of 'SL'

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

18Sport 10m
29 * Girl Finger

Start: Start 3m right of 'E'.

FA: J.Tam, 2004

19Sport 10m

1.2.16. The Wastelands 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574456, -34.873047

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Body Abuse

FA: Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith, Stewart Wyithe, 1991

22Trad 8m
2 Screaming Grahams

FA: Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith, 1991

21Sport 20m
3 Ryobicide

FBs up the left hand arete.

FA: Rod Young, 1991

23Sport 20m
4 Moshpit

4m right of R. Up, then back lefwards and up to anchors.

FA: Rod Young

17Sport 15m
5 * Lucy Can't Dance

Start is same as MoshPit, but straight up

FA: Rod Young

18Sport 22m
6 Dancing In The Garden

The blunt RH arete

FA: Sue Young, 1991

18Sport 22m
7 Breaka My Pants

A little sandy and mossy will improve with ascents.

Start: Just right from DITG on wall.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 15m
8 Raiders Of The Lost Arse

A classic! What more can be said. As you may be aware to attempt this breath taking technical masterpiece you will need to climb solid 20.

Start: Next right line of bolts.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 12m
9 Lesbian Vibrator Bitches

Needs none. Where do i get these names from. Climb it for the calssic name.

Start: To the right of ROTLA.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 10m
10 Roger the Coger

Left of RtD. Great !

FA: Fat Mark

FA: F Mark, 2000

19 to 20Sport 10m
11 Roger the Doger

In the gully right of RtC

FA: Fat Mark

FA: F Mark, 2000

20Sport 10m
12 Alien Probe

The orginal climb here. Start at the black streak under the cave up high. Move right to the unlikely face climbing on the orange streak, up this to anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

FA: Graham Hill, 1998

23Sport 15m, 6
13 ** Buba Cool

Hidden gem, up the back of the wastelands. Start at the little overlap 3m right of Alien Probe. Up trending left to blind seam/crack then straight up to anchors. Hard to put the draw on the 3rd bolt. Otherwise Excellent.

FA: Veronique Hill

FA: Veronique Hill

22Sport 15m, 5
14 Short Memory

15m right of BC at right hand end of this wall

FA: Hill

20Sport 6m
15 Sticky Beak

R of SM. Hard Start

FA: Hill

20Sport 6m
16 Oofti

The most right route on the wall. Tricky moves, but eases off at 2nd bolt.

FA: Hill

20Sport 6m

1.2.17. Vine Wall 19 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574177, -34.873671

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sticky Beak

FA: G Hill

20Sport 5m
2 Oofti

V. Hill

FA: Veronique Hill

20Sport 5m
3 Fat Marks Arete

Up in the fern garden. Looks hard and junk with stupid bolt placements.

FA: Fat Mark

17Sport 6m
4 Short Memory

FA: veronique Hill

20Sport 5m
5 ** Read My Lips

FA: Veronique Hill, 1999

17Sport 6m
6 * Mr Butt Gets A Date

Very hard for the grade (was 18). Left of orange streak and rooflet. Hard start, gets easier the higher you get.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1999

21Sport 15m
7 ** Orly

Hard traverse in from way left, then up right of the orange streak.

FA: Veronique Hill, 1999

22Sport 12m
8 Scream Machine

Start below flake.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1999

21Sport 10m
9 *** Arse Master

Totally underated. Great fun climbing up the slopey scoops.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1999

23Sport 16m
10 ** Sperm Burger

FA: G Hill Fat Mark

21Sport 21m
11 ** Sweety Goddess

Sweety your a goddess! Heard one day at 'The Freezer' when two women climbers were complaining to each other about the names of 'Nowra' Climbs.

FA: Graeme Hill

24Sport 20m
12 ** Psychic Anal Breathing

A great line (with a bit of a kink). Some quite hard long moves.

FA: Graeme Hill

25Sport 20m
13 ** Marche Ou Creve

Start on right side of cavey thing.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1999

24Sport 20m
14 *** Chunk To Chunky

Probably 24, but the best climb at the grade at TP. Up past drill bit stuck in rock, to cave for rest, then straight up the awesome wall.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

24Sport 25m
15 ** Funk To Funky

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1994

23Sport 25m
16 *** Spank The Donkey

Totally cool route through steep territory. Great value.

Start: Start on the far right edge of the wall by stepping onto the pocketed wall.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1999

24Sport 22m
17 ** Donkey Dong

Easier finish of Spank the Donkey. Good juggy steep climbing the whole way. Climb StD to 6th bolt and rest stance in small cave. Go straight up on the right side of the arête on mega jugs and easy wall to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

22Sport 20m, 10
18 McFrys

FA: Rob Fryer, Bob McMillan, Cerin McMillan, 1998

19Sport 30m
19 Crapits

Short line of bolts to ledge. Junk !

FA: Mark Woodard, 1999

20Sport 6m

1.2.18. The Fossil Cave 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.573937, -34.873950

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Dinosaur Club

FA: Sue Young, 1998

16Sport 20m
2 Feisty Little Thing

Start: Just left of rabbit trap on small pockets and edges.

FA: Little Graham, 2000

29Sport 15m
3 * Bubba The Love Sponge

FA: Mark Woodard, 1999

17Sport 20m
4 ** Rabbit Trap

The roof of roofs this end of nowra. Jugs the whole way but getting between them is the trick. Finish out left at the the chain not the new anchors.

FA: Colin Berry, 1998

25Sport 12m
5 ** Jurassic Pump

FA: Rod Young, 1998

26Sport 10m
6 * Hip Hip Hooray

A rap in affair above JP. Sweet easy exposed climbing :

FA: Rick Phillips and Patricia Nutter, 2013

18Sport 20m
7 * Burden of the Bitch

FA: G Hill

17Sport 20m
8 Cromagnon

FA: Rod Young, Alistair Fogg, 1999

19Sport 22m
9 * Mungo

FA: Rod Young, 1999

20Sport 22m
10 ** Mungo Direct

Grade 21 seems doubtful.

Start: Direct start to 'Mungo'.

FA: Graeme Hill

21Sport 22m
11 *** Diprotodon

Awesome sustained pumpyness. Look for some hand jambs in the slots (and too much beta in the write up).

FA: Rod Young, 1998

21Sport 22m

1.2.19. Sloth Area 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.573870, -34.874206

Description:

Heaps of good easier routes around the sloth pinnacle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rootasaurus Rex

FA: Mark Woodard, 1999

20Sport 20m
2 ** The Other White Meat

Sustained face climbing!

Crimp your way up the wall tending slightly to the left to the crux at 2/3s height. Take care getting to the anchors.

Start: Start just by big tree.

FA: Graeme Hill

22Sport 12m
3 * Itsablue

Start 7m right of the Fossil Cave directly behind the 2nd large Blue Gum. Pull up hard and step right with care before good climbing to finishing jugs.

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

19Sport 18m, 6
4 12" Release

Was way mossy when first climbed as the winges on the neighbouring climbs didn't like getting covered in brush leavings. Will clean up after fifty or sixty deserving ascents.

Start: As for Itsa.

FA: G Hill

FA: not known; G Hill This is 12" Release

19Sport 22m
5 Brown Bear

Hard start (stick clip the 2nd bolt if your not solid) that leads into nice wall climbing with a bit of a move at the bulge.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

22Sport 20m
6 Brown Track

Up Sidetrack for 2 bolts then move left past another bolt and then into BB. With a less cranky start, it will probably be more popular than BB.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

20Sport 20m
7 ** Sidetrack

A classic easy 20

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

20Sport 18m, 7
8 * Backtrack

Bit harder than Sidetrack, but just as good !

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

20Sport 18m
9 * Porn Dog

not even a 19

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

18Sport 23m
10 ** Everything But The Wasp

The left route

FA: John Koster, 1997

18Sport 25m
11 *** Resurrection of Rick Roller

The direct line between Sloth and EbtW, goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Better than both its neighbours. Watch that rope !!

FA: Rick Phillips and Jason Lammers, 2012

18Sport 30m, 10
12 ** Sloth

The right route

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

16Sport 23m
13 ** The Handcrack

FA: Unknown, 2000

17Trad 20m
14 Couch Potato

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

16Sport 20m
15 * B.J's Retirement Plan

FA: Graeme Hill, 1999

19Sport 10m
16 Belgium Game

Right most route on this wall. Dont fall off clipping the 3rd bolt. Better than its neighbour..

FA: G Hill, 2000

18Sport 10m

Around the corner there is some more routes. Three Bloody Roofs and Nowra-cised are a good double.

17 Nowra-cised

Left of 3BR. Ride the flake with a big move after the 2nd bolt. Rad !!

FA: Jason Lammers and Rick Phillips, 2012

22Sport 10m, 3
18 Three Bloody Roofs

FA: John Koster, 1999

20Sport 10m

1.2.20. Lizard Block 18 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.573776, -34.874708

Approach:

The next sector just past the Sloth area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lounge Lizard

Start in the corner, behind the tree... do not lean on the tree.. it bends !

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

14Sport 15m, 5
2 Lazy Lizard

Up Incepterkong, and when it goes left keep going straight past a couple more bolts to anchor.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

18Sport 15m
3 ** Incepterkong

Starts inbetween Lounge Lizard and Gecko. At second bolt the crack for Gecko can be used. Use anchor for Lounge Lizard as 5th bolt then climb sraight up steep head wall to the top.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

23Sport 25m, 10
4 Gecko

3m right of LL. Up through the cave and follow cracks/ledges

FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994

15Sport 16m
5 Go Anna

Just right of Gecko.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2014

18Sport 16m
6 Blue Steel

Starts 20 mtrs right of lounge lizard.. Hard parts done by mid height but beware things that look like holds may vary in size...

FA: Rick phillips & Gilles Bonin

18Sport 15m
7 ** You wish jellyfish

Starts 50 mtrs right or south of blue steel at the left hand corner of cave.. Climb steeply using the cave and wall until forced out onto the face.. Super interesting climb with lots of varied moves

FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell

21Sport 28m
8 Diplomatic Immunity

Surprisingly easy start off the block, heave up under the cave then easily out right to a tricky move to gain the long head wall.

FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell, 2014

20Sport 27m
9 Taco Kisses

Starts just right of the big cave, just before the boulders at the end of wall.

Travers left past the cracks and up the face.

FFA: Steven Griffiths, 2014

18Sport 28m, 12
10 * Howling at Hockey

Keep walking past the cave and climb the boulders and look for the line of bolts up the arete Crimp like a billygoat for a few bolts and your safe... Stick clip the first bolt to save your ankles!

FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell

21Sport 20m
11 Viva la KP

Pull down for a few moves just left of small tree on the blunt arete.

FA: Jason Lammers and Kent Paterson, 2014

19Sport 20m
12 ** Heil Von Abbott

Located around the corner in the middle of south facing wall... Start on obvious jug and enjoy it as its the only one!

FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell

19Sport 20m
13 ** Winter Solstice

Shared start then right

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

22Sport 15m, 5
14 * Carnivaughan

On from the start, pinches, pockets and small pull downs, good feet get you through. Nice finger buckets up high.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

21Sport 15m, 6
15 * Electronic Blower

First 2 bolts on Carnivaughan, then move rightwards and up the rad features.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

20Sport 16m, 5
16 The Hourglass

Shares the first bolt with 'Gorilla Gardening'

It starts at the arete, then slightly to the left and up.

Only top anchor at the moment, but bolts will follow.

Set by Steven Griffiths, 2014

19Sport 12m
17 * Gorilla Gardening / Three Little Pigs

It shares the first bolt with 'The Hourglass'. Up the arete, then slightly right through the green section to the top. Bolted so that you can top out and enjoy the beautiful sunset.

This route has awesome moves and is very diverse! (Pockets, Laybacks, Pinches, Grimps, you name it!) Please don't let it grow over again. Climb it, buddies!

FFA: Steven Griffiths, 2014

20Sport 15m
18 * In The Flesh

Still an unbolted crack. Grab your rack and place some dangling bits of gizmos before the bolters wreck it.

FA: Boyd,Mal and George

17Sport 8m

1.2.21. Carpark Canyon 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574014, -34.874789

Description:

From the Carpark above Sloth area walk down the left side gully and in to the "Canyon style cliffs" Sheltered from the strong westerlies and getting sun at most times of the day offering short climbing 10-15 metres generally on vertical faces or slabs.. Will be terrible in summer due to the mossie factor

1.2.21.1. Black Slabbath 3 routes in Unknown
Summary:
Description:

The obvious black slabs on your left

1.2.21.2. Western Walls 4 routes in Unknown
Summary:
Description:

The steeper side... Shade after midday

1.2.22. Midnight Paddlers Boulders 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 150.572934, -34.869867

Unique Features And Strengths:

Deep water soloing even at low tide

Description:

The two large boulders rising vertically from the river. The one with the power line warning signs is Midnight Paddlers and the one to the left is Doberlacky. Both faces pointing towards the center of the river have plenty of water beneath them, though beware of any slabby sections which you may collect on the way down.

S0 – Safe Solo. This has an area of deep water.

S1 – Pretty safe. Watch out for boulders and water depths.

S2 – Not quite safe. Recommended during high tide. Pick a landing spot carefully.

S3 – Dangerous. You will fall on shallow water which will make your fall painful.

Approach:

Access is via boat/ canoe. Step straight onto the boulders and off you go! The safest way down from both boulders is a good hefty jump into the water.

Where To Stay:

The best spot is the Shoalhaven Ski, as climbers get access to canoes for free.

1.2.22.1. Dooberlacky 2 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.572936, -34.869801

Description:

The boulder to the left of Midnight Paddlers boulder. The problems are on the high arete facing the the river.

Approach:

By boat is recommended so you have dry shoes.

1.2.22.2. Midnight Paddlers Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.572886, -34.869975

Description:

The large boulder opposite Shoalhaven Ski Caravan Park with the power line warning signs.

Approach:

I'm on a boat.

1.3. The Grotto Cliffline 231 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.577387, -34.865156

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open Project (A)

Yes you can have it the nice looking wall thing which is just about impossible at 25.

FA: Fill In Your Name, 2000

Sport

1.3.1. P.C. 32 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.569030, -34.865056

Description:© (aca_admin)

PC for 'Project Crag' or 'Planet C**k'. Whatever the name, this crag contains some of the hardest and most popular (difficult) routes at 'Nowra'. Though the crag is dusty and can sometimes be wet, despite appearances, the routes can be excellent and varied.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

Opposite and slightly downstream of Thompsons Point.

'Access' by parking near the substation, climbing over the fence and down the iron rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mr Mojo

FA: George Fieg, 1993

24Sport 10m
2 ** Squeeze The Trigger

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1993

25Sport 15m
3 * Blue Vein Custard Chucker

FA: Peter Wriggly, Steve Barry, 1991

21Sport 15m
4 ** Big, Thick And Powerful

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1993

28Sport 15m
5 * Fukdifino / Fucked If I Know

Not particularly good, but probably the best thing to do here if you don't climb hard.

The anchors are set in seeping rock, and completely rusted after 10 years. New stainless glue-ins anchors (and last bolt) were added in 2004.

Start: Start at the left hand end of the main wall, amongst the big fallen boulders. It starts up the very obvious (and greasy looking) corner.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1991

22Sport 15m
6 ** Attack Mode

This is actually the first 4/5's of 'White Ladder', and has been left in the guide only out of senitmentality (and for those that are looking for good 32's to do).

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994

32Sport 9m
7 ** White Ladder

Short but desperately powerful climbing. 'Excellent'. Originally climbed as 'Attack Mode' to the fixed biner and given grade 32.

Start: Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder.

FA: Chris Webb

34Sport 13m
8 *** Dude Food

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1991

29Sport 11m
9 * Vogue

Super bouldery roof. The original flake in the roof broke and has now been replaced by a drilled pocket.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

29Sport 12m
10 *** Church Of Christ

Start with a big throw around the lip heading left past rings. Gather your thoughts, bust through the crux and keep trucking to the end.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991

26Sport 15m
11 *** Turn Your Eyes Insane

FA: Dave Filan, 1991

26Sport 16m
12 * Hopelessly Devoted To You

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996

29Sport 18m
13 Thank You, Come Again

FA: Paul Westwood, 1996

25Sport 8m
14 *** Hard Candy

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

27Sport 18m
15 * Shocked

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

26Sport 18m
16 ** Super Shocked

Start: The extension to 'S'.

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1997

27Sport 21m
17 ** Bachelor's Ball

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

24Sport 18m
18 ** Bachelor Busted Balling Bimbo

FA: Paul Westwood, 1996

25Sport 20m
19 *** Trigga Nigga

Excellent steep climbing, and the classic 'Nowra' 25.

Start: Start where the obvious undercut roof touches the ground (at a ring bolt).

FA: Andrew Bull, 1992

25Sport 20m
20 *** Brother In A Body Bag

Continuing the tradition of excellent 28's at 'Nowra'. Backup anchor added in 2004. Start: Start 2m to the right of 'TN'. The undercling at the crux snapped off around 2012-13, but there's still a sequence.

FA: George Fieg, 1995

28Sport 17m
21 ** Meet The G (1st Lower)

Finishes at rooflet.

29Sport
22 ** Meet the G that killed me

FA: Chris Webb

31Sport 20m
23 * Gang Bang

FA: Hooters

32Sport 20m
24 Super Geek

FA: Julie Anderson, 1997

25Sport 10m
25 Pauls With A Permit

FA: Julian Saunders, 1996

25Sport 10m
26 ** Bullet With Butterfly Wings

FA: Julie Anderson, 1996

25Sport 12m
27 * Super Weak

FA: Unknown, 2000

25Sport 10m
28 ** Kattack Mode

FA: Brian Rattenbury, 1997

24Sport 10m
29 * Don't Tell The Priest, But It's A Boy 26Sport 15m
30 No Notice

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993

26Sport 20m
31 Sunroom Wanker

FA: Mark Weiser, 1996

23Sport 20m
32 Don't Tell The Priest

FA: Brian Rattenbury, 1996

26Sport 15m

1.3.2. Powerlines Area 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.575245, -34.862627

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * X-Ray Ted

Beware loose rock in the flake & choss on the runout headwall.

FA: Michael Fawcett, 1999

20Sport 26m
2 * Pick The Nose

FA: John Koster, 1999

19Sport 12m
3 Project / Sportclimbers Can't Jam

Surely someone has done this, it looks pretty straight forward.

Sport

1.3.3. The Colosseum 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.576607, -34.862819

History:

The first three routes here adopted the crag name and theme of "Ken'n'Barbie Land", but unfortunately this got ignored by subsequent developers.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Slimey Ken's Knob

The first route here.

FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth, Peter Monks, 1999

22Sport 9m
2 * Barbie's Bitchin'

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 1999

22Sport 9m
3 Unknown (A)

Giles Bradbury was called in to free either this line or Seven Eleven at grade 25 in mid-late 1999 and he named it Teflon Barbie.

Sport 11m
4 ** Seven Eleven

FA: David Brown, 2000

25Sport 11m
5 * Chocolate Jollies

A wall for the slope specialist. Deserves more ascents to keep it clean but probably wont get em until people stop woryying about the grade!

Start: The next route right of SE.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 11m
6 ** Pole Sluts

Similar climbibing although not so desperate.

Start: Right of CJ.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 11m
7 * Too Cute Too Shoot

You guessed it crimping and slope slapping at its best.

Start: Next line right of PS

FA: G Hill

22Sport 11m
8 ** Trust

A little more reasonable still hard enough to have fun on.

Start: Next right of TCTS.

FA: V Hill

20Sport 11m
9 ** Fantastiffy

A lot better in that its hard in places. Do not let that put you off think strong and its easy.

Start: Yep right again from T.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 11m
10 * Wonderfully Wicked Women
  1. 23m (22)

  2. -m (-) Project

FA: John Koster, 1999

22Sport 23m
11 Project (A) Sport
12 Project (B) Sport

1.3.4. Donutland Leftside 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.578634, -34.863515

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** I Balled A Bullfighter

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

22Sport 7m
2 ** Born On Christmas Eve

FA: Veronique Hill, 1990

22Sport 7m
3 ** Poupee Gonflabee

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

23Sport 8m
4 Project (A) Sport
5 ** Half A Cow

FA: Rod Young, 1999

23Sport 17m
6 * Apple Related Tragedy

FA: Rod Young, 1999

19Sport 22m
7 * Blade Runner 9Trad 25m
8 * Blade Flake

FA: Rod Young, Alistair Fogg, 1999

13Sport 22m
9 * Beans On Toast

FA: Veronique Hill, 1990

16Sport 18m
10 ** Taste Of Mexican Meat

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

22Sport 18m
11 ** Slats And Udders

Warning: Fixed protection need replacing.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

22Sport 10m
12 * Kisses And Cuddles

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1990

17Sport 12m
13 ** Hugging And Fucking

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1990

19Sport 12m
14 ** Flake 12Trad 25m
15 Jammer 9Trad 25m
16 Project

The steep arête & hanging lip starting just R of Jammer, with heaps of fixed nonsense.

Sport
17 ** Rainbow Wreckage

Fully ringbolted as of 2011. A striking splitter handcrack through one of the biggest, chossiest caves in Nowra, but amazingly the rock in the crack itself actually looks sorta ok.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

24Sport 25m
18 Airpower

FA: Unknown, 1997

23Sport 15m
19 * Sinucab

FA: Rod Young, 1989

21Sport 18m
20 * Where There's Pork There's Fire

Hard little move off the deck then it gives up.

Start: At little corner crack right of S.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 10m
21 ** Flirt & Squirt

Only goes up to the same level as where there's Pork. Rope drag (and ability)prevented continuation.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 15m
22 * Rambone Machine 23Sport 30m
23 *** Pulling Off The Rambone Machine

The first climb i bolted with the petrol drill and carrots, then later filled it with rings. Really good climbing after the slightly flaky lower section.

Start: At the bottom of the slot right of the arete.

FA: G Hill, 1989

23Sport 30m
24 Rambos Got Me By The Nuts -Open Project

Up scoop then over to the crack at the top of this traverse to the left and onto the wall above.

Start: Same as POTRM.

FA: Doddy will give it a burn.., 2000

25Sport 30m

1.3.5. Donutland Rightside 25 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.580372, -34.864437

Approach:

Quickest access is to park on Yurunga Drive opposite Ikara Place. Walk straight into the bush for 25m to a fence which stretches off to the right. Step around the left end of the fence and go straight ahead for another 15m to the top of the descent slot on your right (don't fall into it!!). An awesome but quite easy subterranean scramble down inside the bowels of this amazing slot pops you out beside Wolfgang Donut (the slot is obvious in the first topo below).

Otherwise, if you want an easier but slightly longer trail, park 150m further SE on Yurunga Drive, opposite Gunyuma Cres, and follow the council-marked Grotto Walking Trail down to the bottom then head right (NW).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Wolfgang Donut

One of the early hard routes in 'Nowra'. Up past some hard (big) moves past a few RBs. Bundy Rebolted 03-08-2006, prob a waste of steel and no one will ever climb it.

Start: Start around the corner of the Green Slab, 2m R of the awesome walk-down slot.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

26Sport 10m
2 Chopper Chicks From Zombie Town

Thin stuff.

Start: Start on the left hand side of the wall almost on the arete. [The topos for the routes on this wall are a bit of a guess, to give the gist of the wall. Please update the topos if you know what route goes where].

FA: G Hill

19Sport 14m
3 Roy's Rectal Ring Balm

Head up right at mid height.

Start: Start as for CC.

FA: G Hill

16Sport 14m
4 Roy's Rectal Ring Balm direct

Start: Start a few meters right of RRRB and climb into that route.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 25m
5 ** Johny Mantackle

Wanders a bit down low until you pass a small pocket.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 15m
6 ** Johny Mantackle Right Hand Start

FA: G Hill

22Sport
7 * Saving Ryan's Privates

Bouldery start, up past overlap, then straight up.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 15m
8 * Spurt Reynolds

Up to a vague groove and then through a small headwall.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 25m
9 * Jack the Dripper

FA: G Hill

21Sport 25m
10 * Dance of the Ballrags

FA: G Hill

22Sport 25m
11 Abswing

Up, then head right at the flake, then up.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 25m
12 ** Abtronics

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 25m
13 ** Abflex

Awaits a direct start.

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 25m
14 Abduct

Start: Start just left of the corner.

FA: G Hill

17Sport 25m
15 Chrome Injury / Chrome Poisoning / Lattanzio Corner Crack

(AKA ,Lattanzio Corner Crack, Chrome Poisoning.) Recently retrobolted to half height, originally done to full height, trad, taking the right hand line from half height. The obvious corner at the right end of The Green Slab.

FA: John Lattanzio, Austin Legler, 1980

19Trad 20m
16 * Secret Agent Man

FA: McElroy

20Sport 20m
17 *** Conehead & The Barbiturates

One of Nowra's finest. Far superior to many other "3 star" routes around here!

FA: Ant Prehn

28Sport 30m
18 Conehead Arete Project

The hardware up the incredible arête on the R side of the Conehead wall. 30m of 30 degrees!

Sport
19 *** Spider Bait / Chinese Water Torture

The greatest Nowra layback there is. Tricky at mid height.

FA: G Hill

FFA: Stuart McElroy, 1990

23Sport 20m, 10
20 Nervous Breakdown

FA: Steve Bullen, 1989

26Sport 15m
21 Pilchard Crack

Has been rebolted? It's 5m R of Chinese Water Torture.

14Trad 25m
22 Apotogen

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2002

31 RSport 15m
23 Caribbean Beat Master

The mega crack up the side of the mega block (20m opposite Chinese Water Torture). Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

FA: Stuart McElroy, 1990

25Trad 20m
24 * Annually Fixated

FA: John Koster, David Brown, Marlene De Martin, 1997

17Sport 37m
25 Barbiturate Corner 20Sport 20m

1.3.6. Gridlock Block 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.580710, -34.864835

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Bargain

FA: Veronique Hill, 1997

18Sport 6m
2 ** Grid Lock

FA: Graeme Hill, 1999

23Sport 8m
3 ** Fatso

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

20Sport 10m
4 FM's Pro 20Sport 8m
5 Fat Marks Project Sport

1.3.7. The Grotto Proper 70 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.581804, -34.865427

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Stitch And Bitch

Another tight little number that will test your crimp skills. Keep pulling and stop moaning and you will piss up it.

Start: Wall left of the carrot on the walk down track. Right of the chimney.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 10m
2 *** Sluts of Trust

This one will keep you on your toes. Good foot work will help. A true classic.

Start: Line just to the right of the carrot bolt in the centre of the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2000

22Sport 12m
3 * The Chronicles of Red Dick

Tricky in places that don't even have places.

Start: On the arete just right of sluts of trust.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 10m
4 Vanessa

The left most route on the wall.

Start: Right of VV at arete of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 10m
5 Vanessa Variant

Neat slabbing for a few moves then you get right into Vanessa.

Start: Right ten or so meters from TCOR at the clean slab left of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 10m
6 * Stephanie

A cheap route in the venacular of routers as it joins up a lot of surrounding bolts with few of its own.

Start: As for Vanessa

FA: G Hill, 2000

19Sport 10m
7 * Stephanie Variant

Up Rock Shoxs to the first bulge then head left to the obvious pocket the up to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 13m
8 * Rockshox

FA: Rod Young, 1995

20Sport 13m
9 Fizzbomb

FA: Rod Young, Chris Gregory, 1995

19Sport 13m
10 * Rite Of The Bolts

They get tricky to differentiate in this area so to get the true feel you climb to the right side of the bolts on the lower wall. If it feels way thin and impossibly hard then you have the correct line otherwise you are climbing the 'Fizzbomb' variant start.

Start: At blank wall right of 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2006

20Sport 15m
11 Curly Chickens Direct

FA: G Hill, 2006

20Sport 15m
12 * Crunchy Chocolate

FA: Nathan Bolton

21Sport 13m
13 * Jim's Militia

Completes the task of making CC a piking traverse in the middle of the wall. Goes where CC was afraid to step.

Start: Next right of CC.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 12m
14 ** Suck a Cockatoo

Second right of CC

FA: G Hill

22Sport 14m
15 * Escape Velocity

Vgroove right of CC

FA: G Hill

21Sport 12m
16 ** Pearced Anal Egg Roll

Left of overlap

FA: G Hill

21Sport 14m
17 * Not The Crack

The crack was always wet so you just couldn't use it. So only about one hold will work in the crack the rest is thin wall climbing. If the crack dries out look out for global warming its coming sooner than we expect, give up your job and go climb all my classics before you die!

Start: Just meters right of the Egg Roll on the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2006

23Sport 15m
18 * The Wet Patch

All soughts of dubious technologies were tried to stop the wall from leaking out of the pockets. A good climb but you just have to put the wet patch out of your mind and do it.

Start: Down on the ground at corner left of 'Vermin Arete'.

FA: G Hill

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 18m
19 * Pavlova's Dog

A great off vertical wall where you can stand on your feet and contemplate why you can't climb it.

Start: Just right of the 'Wet Patch'.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 18m
20 * Love From The Planet Pulse

These walls are really great climbing. You're mad if you don't give them a go next time you scurry past.

Start: Cracky thing just right of P's Dog.

FA: G Hill

18Sport 20m
21 ** Rodent From Rigel

Best wall in the area bar none!

Start: Just right of Planet 'Pulse'

FA: G Hill, 2006

21Sport 17m
22 * Vermin From Venus Variant

Vermin From Venus 'Arete' start is so hard you really have to work for the grade. So its better off keeping your finger nails and doing this start instead.

Start: One meter right of the 'Rodent From Rigel'.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 15m
23 * Vermin From Venus

FA: Graham Fairburn/bolts by hill

22Sport 25m
24 ** Vermin Arete

Nails hard start. Those dudes could really crimp it in the old days.

Start: Under arete now complete with new ring bolts.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 20m
25 *** Vermin From Venus Arete Variant Variant

Really good climbing that lets you do the possible bits of 'Times Up' and leaves the impossible bits to somebody who can.

Start: At any of the Vermin Starts, take your pick but i suggest the easy one.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 14m
26 ** Times Up

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

27Sport 20m
27 ** Married & Mortgaged

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

28Sport 20m
28 ** Sid Vicious

Classic blunt arete. Soft 6 for 'Nowra'.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

26Sport 20m
29 * Steve Jones

Start a few meters right of Sid Vicious. Up the wall to the single U anchor.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

18Sport 9m
30 *** Paul Cook

Up Steve Jones then into the original aided line to top. Really good lay aways rave rave rave etc!

FA: G Hill

23Sport 22m
31 ** Jonny Rotten

Right a couple of meters from 'Steve Jones' at the off set. Good moves at the top where it joins 'Paul Cook'.

Start: The old Giles and Ant aid route now fully operational.

FA: Giles, 2000

24Sport 22m
32 *** Amazon Queens In the Avocado Jungles Of Death

Very popular. It is a bit easier (22) if you retreat to the flake on the right at the crux. But, this seems like most obvious thing to do, and going direct seems a little contrived. If you want to rip the dodgy flake off then don't go direct otherwise grit your teeth and go direct for a safer experience.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1989

23Sport 20m
33 *** Amazon Queens Right Hand (flake) Variant 22Sport 20m
34 *** Belgian Tourists

24 surely?

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1989

24Sport 21m
35 ** Going The Tonk With Zena

A bit goey at the crux.

FA: G Hill

25Sport 20m
36 *** How Much Can A Koala Bear?

Ricky put some new bolts in. Classic !! Not too hard for a Nowra 4

FA: Ant Prehn, Alex Simon, 1989

24Sport 25m
37 *** Zimbabalooba

Possibly the best route on the wall. Not too cruxy, and long enough to get a good pump.

FA: Rod Young, 1998

24Sport 20m
38 Tin Clouds

Up the corner and flake to the suspended flake. Continue up to jug headwall.

Start: Start just R of 'Access Chimney' at arete.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Alex Simon, 1990

20Trad 25m
39 ** Metal Rain

FA: Rod Young, Phil Pisanu, 1990

24Sport 25m
40 * Abdulmajid

FA: Rod Young, 2000

24Sport 22m
41 ** Berlin Wall

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

26Sport 25m
42 * L'Arch

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

FA: Tony Lindley, 2000

17Sport 16m
43 * Throbbing Pole Of Love

Balance your way up passing 7 RBs.

Start: Start 2m right of LA

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

20Sport 15m, 7
44 * McStagger Direct Start

Adds a grade twenty start to Mcstagger or at second bolt you can join Alien Space monster

Start: Off the ground just to left of pillar

FA: Rick Phillips & Jamie Mennie, 2000

20Sport 15m
45 McStagger

Up and left to flake and up the obvious pinnacle on the wall. Finish at ledge. 'Extension' is 'TMc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

15Sport 15m
46 ** Tipsy McStagger

start as for ASM. go left up pinnicle (14) to small ledge then follow rings up steep rock with small sharp holds

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

25Sport 20m
47 Pie Man

Straight up wall veering slightly right past 4 bolts to lower off as for 'Mc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

14Sport 15m
48 Slip Slop Snap

FA: Paul Westwood, 1990

22Sport 25m
49 *** Alien Space Monsters

FA: Rod Young, Sue Young, 1989

19Sport 25m
50 Willis Cave Project

In the cave opposite ASM pinacle.

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport 8m, 3
51 ** Sherrif Of Nothing

FA: Rod Young, 1998

24Sport 12m
52 ** Sweet Thing

FA: Rod Young, 1997

22Sport 10m
53 * Eat My Spinning Blades Of Steel, Mother....er Lefthand Variant

FA: Garth Miller, 1990

23Sport 10m
54 ** Spinning Blades of Steel

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

20Sport 9m
55 * Bedtime Teddy

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

21Sport 8m
56 *** Lipstick

FA: G Hill

25Sport 15m
57 Lupus Nervosa

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

27Sport 21m
58 From Here To There

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1990

25Sport 25m
59 Snot and Misery At Arapiles

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

18Sport 28m
60 ** Cacahouete In The Sky

Quite a unique climb with a particularly tricky mantle shelf and a stiff little ending.

Start: A few meters to the right of the wide crack S&MAA

FA: V Hill

24Sport 15m
61 ** Blow Job Queens From Hell

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

24Sport 15m
62 * Blaze Your Dead Hommies

Was 3 bolt project

FA: G Hill Fat Mark

22Sport 7m
63 ** Orgasm Addict

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

19Sport 8m
64 Jail Bait

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

16Sport 8m
65 * Love Glove

Start about 2m left of 'Joy Mitten'. Climb the unlikely looking wall to small ledge then continue slightly left and on up the arete.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 16m
66 ** Joy Boy

Better finish to Joy mitten. Goes all the way!

FA: G Hill

21Sport 18m
67 * Joy Mitten

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

19Sport 12m
68 Vermin From Venus Different Start 21Sport 25m
69 Project

FA: Open, 2000

Sport 30m
70 * Curly Chickens Direct Finish

This unit soughts out the new routers from the Look Mum I Gotta Drill Crowd! It and the next route make CC a redundant traverse in the middle of the wall. How i love making your route finding errors into the directissima.

Start: Same as the CC marked on the rock which is about 4 meters right of the 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 12m

1.3.8. The Hood Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.582666, -34.866073

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Baby Coneheads

Start just left of Girls in the Hood. Climb the crack feature, step right then back left to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

21Sport 8m
2 * Girls In The Hood

FA: Tara Sutherland, Richard Watts, 1993

24Sport 8m
3 * Rolling With The Syndicate

Start as per GITH then go right

FA: Robbie LeB

27Sport
4 * Pimp Behind The Wheel

FA: George Fieg, 1996

29Sport 12m
5 *** Funky Gripsta

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

FA: Carlie LeBreton, 2008

27Sport 20m, 9
6 ** Insane in the brain

An old project dispatched. From the jug of Evil E, head left and up.

Start: Batman start up Evil E.

FA: Pete Tosen, 2006

30Sport 20m
7 ** Evil E

FA: George Fieg, 1995

27Sport 20m
8 * Livin' A Hustler's Dream

FA: George Fieg, 1996

29Sport 20m

1.3.9. Iceman Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.582947, -34.866252

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Sun Machine

FA: Rod Young, 2000

24Sport 25m
2 ** Icypole

Up sun Machine then up on left of arete all the way to top left set of anchors

FA: G Hill

22Sport 20m
3 ** Iceman Direct

As for Dry Tooling but at the last bolt on it go up and left to break, one more bolt, and anchors at the top of the arete.

23Sport 20m
4 *** Dry Tooling

Up for snowman then diagonal up the wall in from arete, then to arete near little roof. From here go right then up to hole and anchors. Makes iceman obsolete as it should.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 20m
5 ** Iceman

FA: Ant Prehn, Dav Filan, 1990

23Sport 20m
6 *** Snowman

FA: Ian Hoffstedder, Mark Baker, 1990

23Sport 20m
7 ** Kings Cross

FA: Colin Berry, Rod Young, 1995

22Sport 20m
8 * Wack Attack

Up left of Jester. This can give climbers with knee troubles the chance to go to hospital.

FA: G Hill

21 to 22Sport 20m
9 ** Wack Attack Right Hand Start

Avoids the groove start

Start: At 'Jester'

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 20m
10 * Jester

Anchor Replaced - B. Rattenbury 10/9/10

FA: Colin Berry, Rod Young, 1995

19Sport 20m
11 *** Worm On A Razor

FA: Mathew Grabovsky, Mark Doherty, 1995

19Sport 30m
12 ** Fat Marks Really Hard 16

Way hard for a 16 better climb solid 18 before you jump on this little number, now consensus grade is 19

Start: At undercut groove thing just right of WOAR

The arete right of Worm. Bloody hard for a 16.

FA: Fat Mark

FA: Mark Woodard, 2000

18 to 19Sport 8m
13 ** Getcha Goolies

Up The Shoot Root etc then continue up black wall. Hard to get on the wall feel free to molest the little fig tree.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 25m
14 * The Shoot Root & Drive A Ute Mob

The crack to the ledge. Quite good!

FA: G Hill Fat Mark

22Sport 20m
15 ** The Dawes Solution LHS

A great route as you still have to do the Johnny Dawes move that i learnt after a coaching clinic with the man himself. Though i never used it again after this climb.

Start: The left start of the direct line that goes up the black wall to mid height.

Black wall right of worm. Go up crack then across right to do the Johny Dawes dyno.

FA: G Hill

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 15m
16 *** The Dawes Solution

This is the direct. Hard to believe it goes at just 23. Well it does if you don't rip your finger nails off trying.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 15m

1.3.10. Gonads Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.583224, -34.866313

Description:© (Ashy)

This wall is an absolute gem. The rock is hihgly frictional and the climbing can be quite technical and interesting. Oh, and Depleted Gonads is a must tickj for those that climb easier grades.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Toboy The Eighth Man

FA: Graeme Hill, 1996

22Sport 6m
2 ** Prince Planet

FA: Graeme Hill, 1996

22Sport 6m
3 * Astro Boy

FA: Graeme Hill, 1996

22Sport 6m
4 ** Plum Plum

FA: Veronique Hill, 1996

22Sport 6m
5 * Practical Chocker

Start in Open corner left of DGC. Up corner and wall to ledge, then up overhanging arete and across void to anchors.

FA: L Wishart, 2009

22Sport 25m
6 *** Depleted Gonad Circumference

FA: Big John Padslow

18Sport 20m
7 * Pissed-Up Porker Stalker

FA: Graeme Hill, 1996

22Sport 22m
8 ** Word on a Wing

FA: Rod Young, Colin Berry, 1995

21Sport 22m
9 ** Violent Flemm

FA: Rod Young, Colin Berry, 1995

22Sport 22m
10 *** Bondage and Discipline

FA: Rod Young, Colin Berry, 1995

23Sport 23m
11 ** Frogstomp

FA: Rod Young, Colin Berry, 1995

22Sport 20m
12 * Space Oddity

FA: Rod Young, Chris Gregory, 1996

21Sport 17m
13 * Dr Pepper

FA: Chris Gregory, Rod Young, 1997

21Sport 14m

1.3.11. Palm Tree Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Backdraft

FA: Rod Young, Sue Young, 1996

18Sport 22m
2 * Shmoken

FA: Rod Young, Colin Berry, 1996

21Sport 22m
3 Shmoken Variant Start 23Sport 5m
4 Schtill Shmoken

FA: Rod Young, 1999

20Sport 22m
5 * Cancer

FA: Nate Bolton

18Sport 22m
6 * Toss Up

FA: Rod Young, Chris Gregory, 1995

22Sport 12m
7 Palmed Off

FA: Unknown, 2000

24Sport 12m
8 Guru

FA: Tim Booth, 1996

25Sport 12m
9 * Shelltox

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1996

25Sport 10m
10 * Squeeze My Cheese

FA: John Passlow, 1993

21Sport 8m
11 ** Root Me

FA: Graeme Hill, 1996

24Sport 10m
12 Cadabra

FA: Rod Young, Sue Young, 1996

16Sport 10m
13 Project (B) Sport
14 Project (C) Sport
15 * Shmoken Direct Start Variant

FA: Glen Jones, 1996

23Sport 22m
16 Project (A) Sport

1.3.12. Moon Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Feral Guinea Pig

FA: Rod Young, 1996

21Sport 10m
2 ** Mephisto

Hard crux at the start then cruisey.

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1995

26Sport 12m
3 *** Swallow The Moon

A popular route. Enjoyable climbing and rock. Marred by the reinforced flake.

FA: Rod Young, 1995

24Sport 13m
4 ** Thick As A Brick

FA: Sarah Fieg, 1995

24Sport 10m

1.3.13. Grotto Boulders 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.581150, -34.864661

Description:

Random boulder problems amongst the cliffs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Trackside

Alongside the main decent track into the Grotto Proper, everyone has looked at this boulder and surely lots have done it. Marked with "V6 Sit Start". Sit start on the right side of the roof. Move out the roof to top out.

V4Boulder 3m
2 * Sidetrack

Alongside the main decent track into the Grotto Proper, everyone has looked at this boulder and surely lots have done it. Sit start on the left side of the roof. Move out the roof to join in the top out of Trackside.

V4Boulder 3m

1.4. Bomaderry Creek 321 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.592564, -34.854163

Description:

Hidden in the dense bush behind North Nowra, Bomaderry creek is the 'lost world' of Nowra climbing. This area is actually a collection of small crags scattered along the gorge of the creek. Some of the crags are completely worthless, but some are genuinely impressive and feature some great climbing. Access is often quick and easy. Please park with care in these residential areas.

Approach:

For 'South Central' and 'Cheesedale', park at the end of Jamieson Road. For 'Lot 33', 'Lot 34', 'Mortein Wall' and 'Rosies', park on Walsh Crescent.

1.4.1. Lot 34 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.592964, -34.857254

Description:

The wall faces north and overhangs enough that the face will stay dry in the rain. Be careful of the drop!

Approach:

Keep walking past Lot 33 and take a short scramble up to above Lot 33 Left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Belotte Et Ribelotte

FA: Veronique Hill, 1994

20Sport 5m
2 ** Whopping Wobblers

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

20Sport 5m
3 Joe's Massive Dyno

Makes Joe, Joe dynamite (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000

V11 RBoulder 3m
4 Project 1 Boulder Project 4m
5 Project 1 Sit Start Boulder Project 4m
6 * Sunday On The Suffer Bus

FA: brian rattenbury

20Sport 5m
7 ** 8 Bit Hero

Start in the break under the low roof. Big move out to slopey lip, then straight up to finish.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V5Boulder 3m
8 *** Daddy's Daddy

Start as for 8 Bit Hero, moving right toward the hanging arete. Top at first break.

FA: Matthieu REUS, 2014

V7Boulder 3m
9 * Dope On A Rope

FA: brian rattenbury

22Sport 10m
10 ** Dude's One Blow

FA: Dave Filan, 1993

20Sport 10m
11 Project 3

Crouch start on good sloper. Move under roof on slopers to small undercut/sidepull, massive move to roof lip, find shallow dish on face. Foot magic (toe hook maybe?) to gain other dish. Heel hook (maybe?) to gain finish. Looks in the V12+ range. Open to whoever can do it...

Boulder Project 3m

1.4.2. Lot 33 Leftside 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.592534, -34.857327

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** All-Girl Slutfest

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

24Sport 9m
2 ** Domed Damsels

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

21Sport 6m
3 ** No Holes Barred

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

21Sport 6m
4 Hills Hoist

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994

22Sport 7m
5 ** Hell Comes To Frog Town

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

21Sport 7m
6 ** Passagers De La Nuit

FA: Veronique HIll, 1994

21Sport 8m
7 ** Rosy Rockets

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

21Sport 8m
8 * Lachez Les Fauves

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1994

22Sport 9m
9 Blowing Like Niagara Falls

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1993

24Sport 9m
10 ** Stupid-Dope-Fly-Pimp-Shit

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994

26Sport 9m
11 ** Chick's dig scars

FA: Carlie Happ

25Sport 9m

1.4.3. Lot 33 Bouldering 55 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.592386, -34.857352

Description:© (secretary)

The cave faces north and is so large that it never actually gets the sun. However, it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. It doesn't get as spoogy as 'Rosies' though, so its worth checking out even if 'Rosies' is a spoogefest. The rock is sandstone and very few (if any) holds are chipped.

Only the most classic and obvious, difficult boulder problems are described from left to right along the cliff and some of them are eliminates. There are plenty of easier problems to warm up on at the right hand end but they are not described here.

Keep an eye on the other crag pages in the Creek as various lines are being put up.

Approach:© (secretary)

Refer to map for 'Bomaderry Creek' Crags.Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes 'Highway' at North 'Nowra', just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 1st right which is Walsh Cres and follow it around until there is a bush reserve on your right. Park here and follow the track downhill for 30m. This is 'Mortein Wall', follow the track down past the cliff and turn right until you reach a huge cave with a big horizontal roof about 10m up. This is it. The bouldering gets harder the further left you go ...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Highlander

Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2001

V7Boulder 6m
2 ** There Can Be Only One

Far left bolted line on the face.

Set by Paul Westwood

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

V7Boulder 6m
3 ** 60's Spiderman

Sit start at the rail, big mantle up to the sloper. Then move up to finish with a big move to the hueco. The corner is often full of cobwebs but this is well worth quickly brushing them away.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

V3Boulder 3m
4 Corporate Takeover

Crimpy stand start, up on crimps and sharp undercut to top at flake and dirty edge (no match).

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V3Boulder 3m
5 *** Joe, Joe Dynamo

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000

V9Boulder 3m
6 ** Worm

Start under the roof with 2 undercuts (RH on pebble), move out to the lip and then traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo".

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2006

V14Boulder 4m
7 Hard Project

Very crimpy, very hard looking project from the start of "Worm" straight up into the scoop.

Boulder Project
8 Harder Project

Start of "Worm" right into "Pissy Missy".

Boulder Project
9 * Pissy Missy

Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V9Boulder 4m
10 Roof Project

Link from the start of "56ft Back" and "Fed Ex" left along the low roof overlap and into "Pissy Missy". Ridiculously hard, looks in the range of V12-V13. Someone get on it!

Boulder Project 6m
11 56ft Back

Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof.

V7Boulder 5m
12 Fed Ex

Links into 'Special Delivery'.

V11Boulder 5m
13 Project

The lower link up into "Special Delivery". Worked for some time by CWP who thought it would be V14.

Boulder Project
14 *** Special Delivery

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V12Boulder 5m
15 ** Sexy Rexy

Sit start on the overhanging flake. Move up the good holds then out right to the hueco and finish with the big move. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

V6Boulder 4m
16 *** Problem with big moves in front of tree

Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

V7Boulder 4m
17 Sexy Nuggets

Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Pete Tosen, 2010

V9Boulder 8m
18 The Seven

Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

V7Boulder 3m
19 ** Bread

Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left.Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Chris Webb, 2004

V11Boulder 4m
20 ** Nappy Nuggets

Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: George Fieg, 2000

V8Boulder 4m
21 Nappy Nuggets Traverse

Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

V7Boulder 4m
22 Unknown Nuggets

Start as for Unknown and finish as for Nappy Nuggets Traverse.

V6Boulder 5m
23 Unknown

Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish.

FA: Unknown, 2000

V4Boulder 4m
24 The Dyno

Dyno from the 2 huecos to the jug.

V4Boulder
25 Indirectly Unknown

Variant to Unknown. From the huecos, move RH to pocket and LH to good edge, nice move to jug and top. Probably first climbed years ago but good to have more lines recorded.

V4Boulder 4m
26 Unknowingly Indirect

Variation/link up. Start as for Unknown. From the huecos, move right through pockets to jug on The Crotty, then back up and left to jug and finish. Harder than Unknown but doesn't feel like should be V5. Probably first climbed years ago but good to have more lines recorded.

V5Boulder 4m
27 ** The Crotty

Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

V9Boulder 5m
28 Crotty Pumper

Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’.

V10Boulder 4m
29 ** Stargate

Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 2000

V10Boulder 4m
30 ** Stargate Pumper

Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'.

FA: Chris Webb, 2004

V10Boulder 5m
31 Klockwork Orange

More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold.

FA: Toni Lamprecht/ Paul Westwood, 2000

V11Boulder 4m
32 Klockwork Gate

Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’.

V11Boulder 4m
33 ** I Want To Be A Gate

Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'.

V10Boulder 5m
34 *** I Want To Be A Pumper

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000

V9Boulder 4m
35 * Scrawny & Horny

Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V9Boulder 4m
36 * NSK

Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds.Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

V7Boulder 4m
37 ** Un-named V6

Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V6Boulder 4m
38 ** Yellow river

Obvious juggy warm up traverse with some crimps, starting as 'Un-named V6' and right to the start of 'XD'. V2-3 or solid V6 start for 'XD'?

V3Boulder 6m
39 No Discernible Graffiti

Stand start and straight up.

V5Boulder
40 Juice

Stand start on the lowest rail. Move up and traverse left to finish as for "No Discernible Graffiti".

V4Boulder 4m
41 XD

Stand start and up via tough moves. V5-V6

V5Boulder
42 Big Red One

Stand start on the jugs. Move right to the big flake then straight up. Slopey top, tough when warm!

V4Boulder 4m
43 Slopey Traverse

Stand start on the jugs. Traverse right on the slopey break. Hardest V4 in the world... Can be done either direction.

V4Boulder 3m
44 Straight up from traverse

Stand start on Slopey Traverse and head straight up via pebbles and small sidepulls. Thin. V7+ maybe?

Boulder Project
45 ** Two Big Moves

Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up.

V1Boulder 4m
46 * Burning Moves

Start at the ledge for Burnt. Move up to the crimps then left to the middle hold of Two Big Moves. Finish as for TBM.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

V3Boulder 4m
47 * Burnt

Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps.

V4Boulder
48 Project 2 Nowhere

Sit/crouch start and straight up via a tough move near the top.

V3Boulder 3m
49 Harder Than You Think

Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended.

V5Boulder 4m
50 Undercuts I Think

Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'.

V5Boulder 4m
51 Jugs 2 Ring

Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug.

V0Boulder 3m
52 I'm Old Gregg

Stand start and climb the hanging arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

V2Boulder 3m
53 Familiar

Undercutting stand start right of arete, move straight up via presses and ledges.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2014

V0+Boulder 3m
54 Swing

Dyno from shallow jug left to ledge. 165cm

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V4Boulder 3m
55 * Spring

Dyno from shallow jug straight up to top of ledge. Hard. 196cm

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V6Boulder 3m

1.4.4. Lot 33 Rightside 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.592168, -34.857387

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Sport 6m
2 ** Real Men Don't Wear Rubber

FA: brian rattenbury

24Sport 10m
3 ** The Anus Family

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1994

24Sport 7m
4 The Great

FA: Chris Wallace, 1994

22Sport 6m

1.4.5. Mortein Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.591623, -34.857432

Description:© (Ashy)

Just 20m left of 'Rosies' is this vertical face, with some very impressive spotted gum trees. This is the best crag in this area for sub-22 climbers. The slightly harder routes L around the arete are fairly resistant to rain and seepage.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Routes described L to R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Organo Cockacide

Now on ring bolts

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1993

19Sport 7m
2 Black Butt Borers

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1993

20Sport 7m
3 Motorcycle Sluts In Heat

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1993

20Sport 8m
4 * Globular Goolies

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1993

21Sport 8m
5 ** Beef Master

FA: Graeme Hill, 1993

23Sport 8m
6 * Ten Minute Finger Board

FA: Graeme Hill, 1993

22Sport 8m
7 * Engorged

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2000

22Sport 15m
8 Psycho Hose Beast

Extra bolt added in runout

FA: Kim McKeown, 1993

17Sport 10m
9 Wobblebuns

FA: Chris Wallace, 1994

18Sport 12m
10 Flood

FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993

18Sport 11m
11 * Jock Itch

The very obvious orange streak up the middle of the vertical wall.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1993

23Sport 12m
12 ** Bitch Itch

Rebolted August 2012

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1993

20Sport 12m
13 Fribble

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

18Sport 12m
14 Kims

FA: Kim McKeown, 1994

16Sport 10m

1.4.6. Rosies 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.591188, -34.857437

Description:© (Ashy)

Just another impressive jutting steep 'Nowra' overhang. Despite overhanging by up to 15m, and never getting wet from direct rain, seepage and spooge are a problem if it's been wet. 'Nothing' that can't be fixed by plenty of chalk, brushes and a battery powered blow dryer!

Routes described Left to Right. I.e. if you parked on Jamieson St you will get to them in the reverse order.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Man Bear Pig

5m left of "Slut Whipping". Line of RBs over bulge to double RBs.

FA: Sharik Walker, 2010

30Sport 8m
2 ** Slut Whipping

Two excellent and very different boulder problems. Soft if you can crimp.

Start: Start about 5m L of the wet chimney.

FA: brian rattenbury

26Sport 10m
3 ** Suck Me In San Quinten

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

23Sport 10m
4 ** Huggin' The Hog

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

24Sport 10m
5 ** Butt Slammer

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

22Sport 10m
6 Space Cadet

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

26Sport 10m
7 ** Aloha Paradise

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1995

30Sport 15m
8 ** Lucious Hooters

Clip the low belayer's bolt on the left so the leader doesn't get knackered by the rope when dogging the crux.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

26Sport 6m
9 ** Beefmeister

Start: start as for frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly throught roof.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

31Sport 15m
10 *** Stranger on the shore

bit of a debate about the grade,

seems 32/33!!

Start: as for frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, vear left via some awesome bouldery moves

FA: chris webb parsons, 2006

32Sport 15m
11 *** Frosty

FA: Andrew Bull, 1997

29Sport 15m
12 ** EI Maco

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994

31Sport 15m
13 * El Pundi

Start as for Comin At ya Pundi, through inital crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco.

FA: Pete Tosen, 2012

30Sport 18m
14 Comin' at ya pundi 30Sport 15m
15 Black Frosty

Start as Black Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2011

31Sport 20m
16 ** Black Parasite

FA: George Fieg, 1999

30Sport 15m
17 ** SuperSize Me

Start as for Shaker Fries. Keep traversing left to the Beef Meister anchors.

25Sport 17m
18 *** Shaker Fries

FA: Andrew Bull, 1994

25Sport 15m
19 *** Mega Mac

FA: Klaus Klein, 1994

25Sport 15m
20 * Games Burger

FA: Dave Ross, 1994

25Sport 11m
21 * Casual Sex In A Cineplex

FA: Chris Wallace, 1994

24Sport 10m
22 Chip Buttie

FA: John Passlow, 1994

22Sport 11m
23 ** Fist Full of Steel

The far right hand climb, up pockets and out roof to a final reach to clip the anchors.

FA: Steve Barry, 1992

21Sport 12m, 4

1.4.7. Bartondale 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.590569, -34.857200

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wicked Little Thing

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

25Sport 7m
2 Cheeks Of Jelly

FA: Chris Wallace, 1994

23Sport 5m
3 * Old, Fat and Married

FA: Mark Woodard, 1994

18Sport 5m
4 ** Sideshow Bob

FA: Andrew Bull, 1997

27Sport 15m
5 * Sideshow George

FA: George Fieg

30Sport
6 ** Krusty

FA: Paul Westwood, 1994

28Sport 15m
7 ** Mr Bubbles

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994

29Sport 13m
8 Secrets

FA: Nick Suttor, 1993

23 RSport 8m
9 * Bozo

FA: Steve Barry, 1993

20Sport 10m
10 * Kinko

FA: Scott Campbell, 1994

23Sport 10m
11 ** Tongue Juice

FA: Graeme Hill, 1994

20Sport 10m
12 ** Tarts On Toast

FA: Vronique Hill, 1994

15Sport 8m

1.4.8. The Bakery 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.589978, -34.856762

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sex Trek - The Next Penetration 22Sport 8m
2 ** Throbbing Zob

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

23Sport 7m
3 * One For Glen

FA: Brian McKinley, 1995

19Sport 8m
4 ** Bikini Blow Job

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

22Sport 9m
5 ** Pumping Chocolate Cream

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

24Sport 9m
6 ** The Hunt For Red Dog Scrotum

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

22Sport 9m
7 ** Non-Woven Corn Bitch

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

21Sport 8m
8 ** Team Slot

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

22Sport 8m
9 * Bimbo Bender

FA: Veronique Hill, 1995

21Sport 6m
10 ** Shooting Smoo

FA: Graeme Hill, 1995

23Sport 8m
11 ** Sex Trek

FA: Steven Whitall, 1995

22Sport 8m

1.4.9. South Central 44 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.589000, -34.855856

Description:© (Ashy)

For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.

The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.

So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.

Approach:© (Ashy)

Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Dickman And Throbbin

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

25Sport 12m
2 ** The Duralax Kid

FA: Nick Sutter, 1992

25Sport 12m
3 * Black Flag

FA: George Fieg, 1996

29Sport 15m
4 * Black Rage

A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'.

FA: Luke Magill, 2006

28Sport 15m
5 ** Maintain The Rage

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

27Sport 15m
6 ** Brown Badge

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Would easily get 3 stars if not for the big rest.

Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1994

27Sport 17m, 9
7 * Sperm Bitches

3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1995

31Sport 8m
8 Physical Graffiti

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

FA: George Fieg

30Sport 15m
9 ** Plastic Exploding Inevitable

Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'.

Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999

29Sport 20m
10 *** Ain't No Sunshine when he's Gone / Ain't No Sunshine

The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993

28Sport 15m
11 Project Sport 12m
12 Crenshaw Boulevarde

FA: George Fieg, 1998

30Sport 10m
13 Hats and Hoods / Crenshaw Extension

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons

33Sport
14 ** Public Domain

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996

28Sport 12m
15 ** Comin' At Ya Hyper

FA: Andrew Bull, 1995

27Sport 12m
16 ** Red Baron

Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome!

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

26Sport 10m, 4
17 *** Dungeon Master

FA: George Fieg, 1995

31Sport 20m
18 ** Mega Death

Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

26Sport 10m
19 ** Mega Death Direct

FA: Garth Miller, 1994

27Sport 10m
20 * No Name

FA: Chris Wallace, 1995

23Sport 9m
21 * There Goes The Neighourhood

FA: Andrew Bull, 1992

24Sport 9m
22 * Scum

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

25Sport 10m
23 Scumbag

FA: Zac Vetrees

29Sport 20m
24 Scumy Sex

link up of sex machine into scum

FA: George Broadfoot, 2006

26Sport 10m
25 ** Sex Machine

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

26Sport 10m
26 ** Crime Is Art

FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992

23Sport 10m
27 Two Bolts And Not For Me

Caution: Old rusty hangers have just about fallen out.

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993

23 XSport 9m
28 * Art Is Fucked

FA: Dave Filan, 1992

23Sport 8m
29 * Hunted Child

FA: Stewart Wyithe, 1992

22Sport 8m
30 * Strike

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23Sport 7m
31 * Silver Hands

Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe.

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

19Sport 9m
32 * Bag Of Sand

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

21Sport 8m
33 KKK Bitch

FA: Paul Westwood, 1992

23Sport 8m
34 * Itchy Quims

FA: Graeme Hill, 1992

21Sport 9m
35 Burping Burgers

FA: Veronique Hill, 1992

19Sport 8m
36 * Poo With Me

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24Sport 9m
37 ** Poo With Me (Right variant)

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24Sport 9m
38 ** Word Up

FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993

24Sport 12m
39 * Hard At It 24Sport 9m
40 ** Dungeon Dykes

FA: Greame Hill, 1999

23Sport 7m
41 ** Torra Torra Pass

FA: Veronique Hill, 1996

21Sport 6m
42 Bush Bash

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

17Sport 5m
43 ** Slippery When Wet

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

17Sport 6m
44 ** Word Up (Direct Variant)

FA: Greame Hill, 1997

24Sport 9m

1.4.10. Cheesedale 59 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.591720, -34.854270

1.4.10.1. Cum Wall 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
1.4.10.2. Leftside 7 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.591356, -34.854270

1.4.10.3. Cheesemonster Wall 11 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.591809, -34.854270

1.4.10.4. Cheddar Choss Wall 15 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.592174, -34.854270

1.4.10.5. Cheesedale bouldering 23 routes in Area
Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.591356, -34.854270

Description:

The cave faces South and is so large that it never actually gets the sun on it making it great for summer and winter alike but it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. The rock is sandstone and almost all of the holds are chipped so if you're not in to that sort of thing then head to Lot 33 instead. Many of the chipped holds have been filled in since this info was written on the old ausbouldering site. Take grades with a pinch of salt... They may be much harder now...

Approach:

Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes Highway at North Nowra, just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 2nd right which is Philip Rd opposite the church and just after the school. Take the first left, Castle Glen Rd, and at the end turn right into Jamieson Rd. Park at the end off Jamieson Rd, North Nowra and head down the path at the end into the Bomaderry Creek Bushland. Follow the track downhill for 100m until you find a small track heading left and crossing the creek just after a small waterfall. Be careful crossing the creek and follow the track another 50m until you hit a big cave with bolted climbing, this is known as South Central. Walk through South Central and follow the path for about 100m until you reach a t-intersection. Turn right and follow the path down the hill and head left before you get to the creek. About 50m further along take the vague left track that heads up the hill to the big cave, this is Cheesedale.

1.4.11. Scattered Crags 77 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.595244, -34.856618

1.4.11.1. Choc-A-Block 22 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
1.4.11.2. The Ammo Dump 20 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
1.4.11.3. Sewer Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (Ashy)

Caution: The bolts here may be corroded and need replacing...take care.

1.4.11.4. Julian Rocks 22 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
1.4.11.5. F.O. Crag 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.595243, -34.856627

1.5. Babylon Areas 100 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.453736, -34.833888

1.5.1. Babylon 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.473577, -34.839793

1.5.1.1. Eastern Cliffline 11 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (Ashy)

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

1.5.1.2. Western Cliffline 16 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
1.5.1.3. Big Orange Wall 2 routes in Sector
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

30 Degrees overhanging 18m high awesome orange rock!!

1.5.1.4. Jumjuma 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Trad

1.5.2. The Gaza Strip 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.471944, -34.834726

1.5.2.1. Dead Cat Wall 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (Ashy)

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

1.5.2.2. Little White Wall 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (Ashy)

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

1.5.2.3. Big White Wall 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (Ashy)

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

Caution: All routes are 30m long so be careful when lowering.

1.5.2.4. Falafel Wall 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (Ashy)

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

1.5.2.5. Orange Wall 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (Ashy)

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

1.5.2.6. The Green Wall 4 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (Ashy)

Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.

1.5.3. The West Bank 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.441734, -34.819496

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cannibals and Missionaries

FA: Tara Sutherland, 1997

23Sport 10m
2 ** War and Peace

FA: Colin Berry, 1996

25Sport 20m
3 ** Killer Loop

FA: Rod Young, 1996

24Sport 15m
4 ** Chemical Warfare

FA: Chris Gregory, 1996

21Sport 15m
5 * Smith & Wesson

FA: Rod Young, 1996

22Sport 15m
6 ** Ode To Katie
  1. 12m (18) 'Access' pitch to half way ledge and upper climbs.

  2. 12m (22)

FA: Rod Young, 1997

22Sport 24m
7 * Flesh Mechanic

FA: brian rattenbury

22Sport 24m
8 ** Duke Nukem

FA: Rod Young, 1996

25Sport 24m
9 * Rodent

FA: brian rattenbury

23Sport 24m
10 The Shining Path

FA: Tyler Smith, 2000

23Sport 25m
11 Unknown

At the impossible blank section down low climb into W&P and then back on route.

FA: Tim Booth, 2000

25Sport 20m
12 Project 27Trad

1.5.4. Occupied Territories 33 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.448970, -34.811973

Description:

The climbing at OT is varied, from grade 12 slabs to grade 25 pumpers. It is located in a great out of the way place so the usually annoyances that you asscociate with nowra do not exist. Location: From the roundabout at the North Nowra shops head right (instead of left to go to the grotto and camping areas) and follow Illaroo road out of Nowra. At 10.5km there is an intersection (Illaroo road goes left to Babylon) continue on straight ahead and shortly the road will turn to dirt (11.1km from roundabout). You will then pass under some high voltage power lines (13.1Km) and Lower Bugong road (13.9Km) off to the left (Goes to West Bank). Continue straight ahead for another kilometre of so until Abernethy�s Road appears on the left (15.1km from roundabout). Take this road for 1.5km until the road weaves down and left underneath a cliff line. Park at the bottom of the hill off the road and walk 15m to the first climb. Do NOT park in the obvious clearing on the right side of the road opposite the crag in a 2wd as the ground is soft and you will likely get bogged. The road gets a little rough near the crag so take care in a low clearance car.

Approach:© (hawkman)

From the roundabout at the North 'Nowra' shops head right (instead of left to go to the grotto and camping areas) and follow Illaroo road out of 'Nowra'. At 10.5km there is an intersection (Illaroo road goes left to Babylon) continue on straight ahead and shortly the road will turn to dirt (11.1km from roundabout). You will then pass under some high voltage power lines (13.1Km) and Lower Bugong road (13.9Km) off to the left (Goes to West Bank). Continue straight ahead for another kilometre of so until Abernethy�s Road appears on the left (15.1km from roundabout). Take this road for 1.5km until the road weaves down and left underneath a cliff line. Park at the bottom of the hill off the road and walk 15m to the first climb. Do NOT park in the obvious clearing on the right side of the road opposite the crag in a 2wd as the ground is soft and you will likely get bogged. The road gets a little rough near the crag so take care in a low clearance car.

1.5.4.1. Scoop Wall 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The first section of cliff visible from the carpark. climbing varies from steepness to easy slabbing

1.5.4.2. Slabs 6 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The morining slabs offer great easier climbing on (predominantly) awesome orange sandstone. Location: Located about 50m up the hill from Scoop wall