Rock'n Tree Cave All sport climbing

4 routes in sector

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Description

This huge cave is the most impressive bit of rock at The Goldmine. It begins with a slippery grey 'slab' for the first 10m then overhangs alarmingly through several major roof sections and caps with a section of pocketed grey headwall. All routes are long - a 30m rope is required for lowering off, and long slings are needed to stop rope drag.

Approach

Located immediately right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and directly below the carpark. If you use the access rap chains you rap down the left side of this wall.

Descent Notes

Due to steepness all routes require back jumping.

History

'Monty' equipped the first route here but waited two years to actually send it. Matt Pascoe had the real vision and equipped the two longest and steepest sections.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
29 *** The Simple Life Sport Project 25m, 8

The hardest route at New Nowra? Left most line directly up through the massive steepness. Scramble up shale mess to small ledge. Bouldery and unlikely start onto the white white (ignore seepy seam) - then up and out out out. Spaced bolting.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

FA: Matt Pascoe, 2013

2
Open Project Sport Project 25m, 9

As for The Simple Life for three bolts, then right and through centre of cave. Runout and hard.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

3
Project - Matt B Sport Project 30m, 12

Start as for Jerkyll and Hyde but follow the scoop to join the open project. Follow this till the last bolt on the roof, then move diagonally R to join J&H again at the lip.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

4
25 *** Jerkyll & Hyde Sport 30m, 13

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Pascoe, 2013