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Description

A pleasant shady flat bottomed cliff featuring near vertical climbs. Rock varies from short orange stuff to the usual grey flaky scab laden walls.

Access issues inherited from Tianjara Falls

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left (south) of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities! Do not build new rock cairns - apparently there is an $11,000 fine if you do.

Approach

Same approach as Orchard Alley. About thirty minutes walk from the car park. At the initial descent gully for Orchard Alley turn right facing out an continue for another thirty meters.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

History

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Grid bolted by the Hills. This area was turned from a once obscure scab covered cliff into a mecca for the modern climber. Most of the scabs have been knocked off but there are a few left for the weighty scab pullers who may get out this way.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Right side of hanging arete on the first bit of climbable rock. Access from ledge on right. Short and steep tho a bit soft for the grade the taller you get.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2017

Start at the detached flake under the Africa like continental shape. Journey up the line of bolts that goes east of the African flake.Steeper top half is on good jugs.

FA: V Hill, 2016

Start at the same first bolt as as East of Africa. Take the left line of bolts past the Congo, grappling with the easiest holds and scabs for a mild tick.

FA: G Hill, 2016

A weird extension of any of the three short climbs on the orange wall. Depending on the size of your nuts and the amount of faith you have in the lip jug. Climb, leap or fly out to lip after climbing the route below. Tell your belayer not to stand underneath as they might wear the hold. Alternatively; climb the route below to the ledge and stick clip the biner hanging from the chain at the lip. Climb or leap out to the lip and wrestle it and the easy wall to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2017

The right hand of the three short routes which ascend the orange wall. Great rock tho the rest ledges can get a little dirty. A bouldery start which may be as hard or as easy as the others around here. Find the technique and it falls into place, no strength required.

FA: G Hill, 2017

The middle of the three routes that ascend the short orange wall. A bouldery start which is easy if you can do it and worth complaining about if you can't. Straight up past the rest ledges to the anchors under the roof.

FA: G Hill, 2017

Left route of the trilogy of three ascending the short orange face. Great rock but its broken by a couple of rest ledges you could camp on.

FA: G Hill, 2017

The second line of bolts right of Legless Leper. Start at any of the two or three bolted alternatives. The arete start is more traditional. Great climbing on a steep wall with a crux somewhere near the top. If you pull off any holds glue them back on!

FA: G Hill, 2016

The middle of the three great wall routes on the main wall. Start on any of the bolted alternatives they are all about 19. Head up and over to do the same middle moves as ATOTFRR. At mid height take the left branch of bolts more or less straight up the wall. Try not to stand on the crux handhold you may just stomp it off with great big club footed clodhoppers.

FA: V Hill, 2016

The route that ascends the middle of the proud wall. Start just to the right of the slot that takes you to the upper ledge, at the side pulling pocket. Head straight up the wall being careful not to pull any shit off at the mid height break.

FA: G Hill, 2016

Start on the upper ledge at the common bolt. Head up just to the right of the orange streak crossing back to the centre at mid height then straight up to common anchors. Thin moves some of which were so thin they fell off, hence the need to glue a few back on. If glue offends don't whinge to me.

Desperately tries to climb the orange streak but can't quite do it. Start on the upper ledge at the common start bolt. Head up and left onto the great orange rock. Instead of heading into the bee's nest at the top, jig back to the right to finish on the common anchors. Not much new rock passes under your feet but the stuff is gorgeous. The critics will cry "contrived!" & "toy route" but who cares rock doesn't get any better than this.

FA: G Hill, 2017

Next line right of the Hairy Snotter route. Use the same two rungs to start and branch right.

Located on wall to the left of the main cliff. Access the ledge from the left side. Start at rungs. Straight up past hole. Some good moves once you clear the bottom slab.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2017

Nice bit of rock once the crap at the bottom is gotten over by using the two rungs. Bulgy but large holds throughout the whole climb.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2017

Activity

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