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Description

Some great quality rock but some high admin access! This novelty sector features a spectacular hanging belay off a 'permaledge' - a permanent portaledge bolted to the rock. All the climbs here are magnificent quality and with the bonus exposure make for some of the best routes at The Gold Mine.

Approach

Walk about 100m north of the carpark along the cliff top - and find a large rock cairn marking the top of this sector. Near the edge of the cliff below the cairns are two rap rings set on horizontal rock just below a large tree. Fix a 35m+ rope and rap 20m down to cosy permaledge. Stay clipped in at ALL times and be careful not to tip the ledge. You will have to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock. When you are finished climbing here, rap an extra 15m to the floor and walk right along cliff base to reach Cafe Cruiser Wall and the usual exit.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Pretty airy! Up off the ledge for one bolt then traverse right, across corner to overhung arete. Up this taking the right most line of bolts over the sucking void.

Set by Jason Lammers & Rick Phiilips, 2013

FA: Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2013

2

At last, an easy way off the permaledge. Traverse right to adjoining wall and continue steeply to top. Not as great a climb as the others off this ledge but good all the same

FA: Rick Phillips, Jake Noblett and Doug Bell

3

Up HR, then move right under rooflet. Find the pocket and up the easy wall.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

4

Great quality rock, with some amazing pockets down low. The right line of bolts off the permalegde, sharing the first couple of bolts with Crash Test Dummies. Might be grade 25.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

5
25 *** Jungle Love Sport 25m, 10

Climb start for 'High Roller' clipping first 4 bolts, take a 3-4m run out traverse to the left to clip bolt just above roof on 'Crash Test Dummies'. Continuing to traverse the juggy roof merging up to anchor of '3D Disco'.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2014

6
23 ** Crash Test Dummies Sport 20m

Great sustained climbing all the way. Follows the line you rap down to access the permaledge. Shared first bolt with High Roller then straight up (with difficulty) to roof. Take care not to pull on the lip of the tempting roof-flake (marked with an X). It flexes and is directly above your belayer!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

7
20 *** 3D Disco Sport 20m

A killer line in an outrages position. One of the best routes at the Gold Mine. Step left with difficulty off the permaledge over the void to reach the undercling flake. Follow it to the corner then up this on massive jugs and finish up headwall. Lower-off into space and get your belayer to lasso you and haul you back in again. You will need a 2nd to clean the route.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

8
22 ** Protein Pill Sport 22m

Follow 3D Disco all the way to the end of the steepness, then take left trending rings up grey face.

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

9
24 *** Frequent Flyer Points Sport 20m, 11

Follow the juggy flake as for 3D Disco to a rest just bellow the roof. Move off through the roof, left of the major corner, following the lower flake, then moving out and up the head wall. The quality of the rock on this route is crazy cool!

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

10
26 *** Boab Business Sport Project 31m, 15

Wow. This climb rips it in the way of exciting moves, exposure, sweet location and great quality rock. Possibly worthy of 4 stars! The first half of the route shares the start of 3D Disco up to the rest. After moving onto the roof, merge off 3D Disco, traversing left through the lower flake of the roof, staying below the bolts until moving out of the roof onto the face. Traverse left along the face to the arette, following arette to the top.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013