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Description

A single steep orange wall once visited by mysterious bolters who gridded the top with U anchors as well as sparsley placed them down some of the climbs. Some of the anchors were lacking glue but most of them are fine. The bolts over the top should be ignored as there are now double rings on the tops of most climbs.

Useful Info: 'Access' the cliff by walking to the edge and walking right facing out for about thirty meters. Look for a slot chimney with green rungs in it.

© (nmonteith)

Approach

Drive past the turn off to Thompson's Point and the University and continue past the reservoir and down the hill. As you come out of the little valley at the bottom of the hill there is a house on the right and the turn off almost immediately opposite to the left up YALWAL road. Follow this up until the road goes under the power lines. Further along an open area appears on your right about the size of a football field and sometimes populated by dead cars. Turn into this and drive to the back side and just right of centre. There will be a small dirt track heading off from this clearing for 70 to 90 meters at the end of this park. To go another 20 meters further you would drive straight over the cliff. Can be seen on aerial maps as a large orange patch off a straight section of dirt road.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
23 ** Puke Skywalker Sport 15m

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

FA: G Hill, 2007

5
23 ** Trilobutt Sport 18m

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

FA: G Hill

6
22 * Bum-eyed Bumosaurus Sport 18m

This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts.

Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2008

7
22 ** Bionic Barf Bunnies Sport 22m

Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp.

Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line.

FA: G Hill, 2007

8
22 ** The Sperminator Sport 18m

Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock.

Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one.

FA: G Hill

9
21 * Trap Buddies Sport 18m

Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground.

Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack.

FA: G Hill

10

This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!?

Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge.

FA: G Hill

11
21 * Muscle Thruster Sport 15m

This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish.

Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes.

FA: G Hill

12
20 * Ball Burner Sport 18m

Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience.

Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'.

FA: G Hill

13
23 * Rats Project Sport 23m

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff.

Start: At the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'.

14
24 ** Romancing The Bone Sport 23m

Pumper route with nails hard start and a crux way up the top. There is an easier alternative and this is to pike at the two closely spaced bolts just before the last crux its hard 23 to this point. You will see the bolts they are pretty obvious lower off anchors disguised as runners.

Start: Up on the ledge about three meters right of Alien's Route Three. In vague corner.

FA: G Hill, 2005

15
16 Veg Sport 15m

Early bridging avoids the bouldery start. the climb gets a little sandy but is generally cool and ok.

Start: This is the second route down the access slot. It keeps the route sequencing correct to stick this right of 'Rats Project'.

FA: G Hill, 2005

16

If you did this climb enter the details. It goes up some of the best looking rock in 'Nowra'. 'Steep' and bulgy though its a pity about the start not commencing from the ground.

Start: The first bolts are high up the wall so it looks like a rap in start.

FA: The AVC, 2000

17
23 * Plasto Bambola Sport 20m, 8

Steep on generally sound rock and big jugs with a tricky head wall to finish.

Start: At crack to the right as you come out from the descent gully.

FA: G Hill, 2005

18
16 Lisa's Monkey Sport 12m

Cool in summer though a little sandy. Will clean up with a thousand ascents. Just look at 'Gun Barrel Highway' now!

Start: The first route you pass as you walk down the access slot.

FA: G Hill, 2005

19

Gotta be the best looking bit of stone around. Why doesn't anybody want to go and climb it give it a grade and some closure in its life?

Start: Right of Alien's Route One from the ground.

FA: The AVC, 2000

20

When the Alien's bolted this baby they wanted you to find some balls, squeeze them together and go for it. Maybe these Aliens were British trad dudes?

Start: Right of ART under obvious large hole in rock and slabby pre wall.

FA: The AVC, 2000