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Summary

A crag in the New Nowra area that faces south. It should be climbable in both summer and in winter (In winter when there are no southly or westerly winds blowing.)

Description

Easy access along the base of the crag. There will be quite a concentration of routes that will be mostly 15m to 25m high. About a hundred routes in this new area eventually from grade 10 to grade 30.

Access issues

A five minute flat walk through the bush to get to the clifftop from the parking on a dirt road. Another five minutes walk down an easy scramble gully to get to the routes.

Approach

On the same cliff line as The Gold Mine.

The easiest approach is towards the right hand end of the cliff. A five minute flat walk through the bush to get to the top of the cliff, take the obvious tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk across the top of the cliff (tagged) to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope and rungs to help you get down. You'll pop out between Easy Pickings and Mullock Heap sectors.

There is also an access gully/ramp at the left hand end of the crag (Sluice Box sector), which is roped and has rungs. It's a little harder to negotiate as it is more exposed and steeper and probably better as and exit from the crag than an approach. From the main track, locate a little gully on your right about 40m before you get to the cliff edge, follow the tagged track for about 100m to the next obvious little gully. Rope and rungs at the base of this gully.

Drive in as per the Goldmine.

  1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.

  2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.

  3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.

  4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"

  5. 4.5km: Continue along this road until the road swings around to the left (just before big puddle). Look for the obvious Parking on the side of the road.

Where to stay

TBA

Ethic

Sport Climbing Crag

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Fucktardia Sector
14
22
16m
4
19
106
15m
4
9
56
14m
3
6
29
14m
1
19
61
16m
2
2
4
18m
1
Diamond Wall Sector
6
20
21m
1
6
11
16m
2
18
21
16m
8

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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