Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fucktardia | |||||
25 | ★★★ Coming Up For Air
Takes the obvious seam on orange rock under the large roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 21 Sep 2014 | 12m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Five Star Dreams
Start as for CUFA. Takes the right hand line up the lovely orange wall. Tough start into the seam, after the third bolt step right and climb the wall. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 14m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Exterminate the Brutes
Start as for Rough, Raw and Ranting, then step left at the 2nd bolt. Continue leftwards (mind the fragile pocket) past various scoops to the stepped roof. Muscle through to the anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 3 Jun 2015 | 20m, 11 | |||
20 | ★ Rough, Raw and Ranting
Start just left of a wide crack in a corner 8m before Wicked Ways. Climbs the grey wall under a large, chossy cave on good rock, then through the roof and little corner to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 18m, 11 | |||
18 | ★ Wriggle Room
Start at the wide crack in the corner. Batman the start to avoid an unpleasant grovel in the undercut offwidth (The batman start has been eliminated, might be a little harder). Once over the undercut, climb the grey slab on great rock to a ticky move before the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 16m, 9 | |||
16 | Wicked Ways
Starts at the undercut chimney about 60m right of Money Shot. Tackle the awkward start and bridge to gain the right wall then on to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 15m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Silent But Deadly
Start as for Strong, Silent Type then takes the left line throght the cave and roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 14 Aug 2016 | 16m, 11 | |||
23 | ★★ Strong, Silent Type
Some exciting climbing on great rock with magic holds under the roof. Starts at the left hand of two steep cracks at the base of this steeply overhanging wall. Climb the crack trending right to good rest ledge, through the roof and bulges to top. Use a long draw on the lip to save your rope. FA: John Lattanzio, 18 Oct 2014 | 18m, 10 | |||
24 | ★★ Santorum Sandwich
Starts at the crack right of Strong, Silent Type. Punchy first moves to jugs. Relax here then crimp and balance your way to the chains. Set: Wogdog FA: Andrew Richards, 30 Apr 2016 | 16m, 11 | |||
26 | ★★ Gnarly Numbers
Up flakey start to obvious break then head diagonally left under big roof and up on exposed jugs to anchors. Set: Jason Lammers FA: Andrew Richards, 27 May 2016 | 22m | |||
21 | ★ Flight of the Fucktards
Start at right end of cave. Climb up on jugs to exciting move thru the roof. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 22m, 9 | |||
17 | Doubtfire
Also in memory of the great Robin Williams. Start 8m left of Macmillan Madness at a little gully/chimney. Not as easy as it looks. Climb just right of the cave with some committing moves above. FA: John Lattanzio, 16 Aug 2014 | 12m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Macmillan Madness
Takes the arete and wall 1m right of the little corner. Pretty nice wall !! FA: Bob Macmillan, 2012 | 12m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Booty Call
Start 10m right of Macmillan Madness and around the corner. Climb the wall to a ledge, then slab and roof to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 12m, 8 | |||
17 | ★ Mork and Manky
In memory of the great Robin Williams. Start at the little corner at the right hand end of this sector. Bridge the little corner, step left and climb on jugs right of the cave to the top. Don't let the name put you off. FA: John Lattanzio, 16 Aug 2014 | 13m, 6 | |||
The Mullock Heap | |||||
22 | ★ Fingers
Hard fingery start, but eases off the higher you go. Start just right of 1st bolt. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 12m, 4 | |||
17 | Knucklehead
Start 3m right of Fingers and just left of the cleft and fern. Climb the left side of the cave then the flake line to top. The bouldery start is over quickly then pleasant climbing to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
18 | ★ Shoulders on Snowy
Starts 8m right of descent gully, at small waist high tree stump below steep hand crack. Stand on stump to start then take left line of bolts past scoop and up nice juggy headwall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 16m | |||
18 | ★ Dueling Drills
Same steep handcrack start as previous route, then take right line of bolts which trends right up steepish grey shield. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 17m | |||
22 | ★★ First World Problem
Jam up the twin cracks then at second bolt take the left line of bolts traversing under roof. Follow lower line of bolts using little edges all the way to join into Dueling Drills. Finish up headwall. Long runners useful to stop rope drag. FA: Neil monteith, 2011 | 20m | |||
★★ Project - Open
Halfway along left traverse on 'First World Problem' go out bulge via heuco and up steep fingerery grey wall above. Will be 26? Bolted by Neil Monteith who isn't sure he can do the moves. | 20m | ||||
20 | ★ Hard Working Hands
20m right from the descent gully. Twin hand cracks up bulging wall then fantastic traverse right across face under bulging wall then up juggy face above. Superb marbled rock. If you can't jam you might have serious problems getting off the ground. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Shadrach Memorial
The leftmost traverse. Funky last move. Good warm up, and get your belayer to 2nd it to clean. FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2012 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ The Darkness
Right to left leading line up a big black featured slab. The original route on this wall. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 17m | |||
21 | ★★ AeroPress
The middle climb on this wall. As per the Darkness, and then thru crimpy buldge. Best on this wall. FA: Steve Hawkshaw & Jason Lammers, 2012 | 16m | |||
20 | ★ Heart of Darkness
Start as for The Darkness. First two bolts of TD then straight up, finishing with a slab. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 13m, 8 | |||
18 | ★ When you Smile at me I go to Rehab
Up the short wall between the grey and white streaks. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 10m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Ego Tango
Leftmost route on this wall. Tricky start to a rest, then up via the jugs on the arete. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Spot Gold
The rather attractive arete on the left side of the orange wall capped with a roof. The middle route on this wall. Thin and technical start leads to sustained awesome jugs. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 13m, 8 | |||
23 | ★ A Spot Pumpy
Another link-up. Starts up the great pockets and face holds of Spot Gold then finishes up the steep part of Rumpy Pumpy. FFA: Ben JengA, 2012 | 13m, 9 | |||
19 | ★★ Goldielynx
Popular and excellent link-up of Rumpy Pumpy into Spot Gold. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 14m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Rumpy Pumpy
Start on the ramp 2m right of Spot Gold. Up the line immediatly left of the cave and through the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 14m, 9 | |||
12 | ★★ Silver Bull
The left hand route on the attractive wall adjacent to the Spot Gold wall. Start off the ramp below the left hand cave. Climb the wall, staying out of the cave for full value. Great climbing on good rock. FA: Jon Porter, 2011 | 14m, 8 | |||
16 | ★ Money Shot
Start at the undercut, hanging arete, 4m right of Silver Bull. After the tricky undercut start, climb the arete, traverse left under the cave and up the steep wall past some dubious but solid rock to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
Easy Pickings Walls | |||||
15 | ★ The Team Shire cafe experience
Start on the right side of EP wall. Tricky start to gain flake and up to the right on pockets, then up on jugs. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 15m | |||
14 | ★ Easy Peasy Extension
Climb past the anchor past a FH to new anchor at the top of cliff. | 18m | |||
14 | Easy Peasy
As for 'Easy Pickings', then straight up to anchors. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 10m | |||
15 | Better than GFC
Shared start with 'Easy Pickings' then slightly leftwards past a few FH's. FA: Jason Lammers, John Lattanzio, Veronica Trainor & Gilles Bonin, 27 May 2017 | 18m | |||
14 | ★ Easy Pickings
The lefthand route on the first wall leading leftward at the arete to anchors up high. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 15m | |||
24 | ★ Take Me I'm Yours
Starts at the crack/corner 4m left of Easy Pickings, under the overhang. An awkward start followed by a rest. Up to the roof then punch out right and on to jugs and an easy wall. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 15m, 8 | |||
Project Glenn Jones
Start around the corner from EP at the right hand crack under the roof. FA: Glenn Jones | |||||
18 | ★ Girlie Action
Start at the base of the slender wall left of the overhang. Climb the leaning arete. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 12m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ Thick and Thirsty
Start as per GA, then climb the left side of the wall. Climbs better than it looks. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 12m, 7 | |||
18 | ★ The United Nations
Slab leading to small roof with the crux at the main overlap. Start 3 metres further left from Thick and Thirsty at the large up rooted tree. FA: Matt Tranter, 2011 | 12m, 7 | |||
21 | ★★ Flame then Fire
FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011 | 22m, 2, 9 | |||
12 | ★ Whoop-de-do
Located at the right hand end of the next cliff about 15m left of Flame then Fire. Start on the little terrace. Climb the clean streak through a couple of bulges. FA: John Lattanzio, 15 Oct 2016 | 10m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Blind Ambition
Starts 15m left of Whoop-de-do a the track dips down. Climb the diagonal line left through the steepening to anchors FA: John Lattanzio, 15 Oct 2016 | 12m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ It's Lit
Just left of 'Blind Ambition' A few tricky moves, follow the bolts leftwards and up. FA: Jason Lammers, 27 May 2017 | 14m, 5 | |||
Metalloid Wall | |||||
20 | No Show
Start 4m left of Spare a Thought at crackline. Follow the crackline (the flake is solid, believe it or not) and on through the steepening to anchors. Will be desperatly hard after rain of if seeping. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 11m, 7 | |||
22 | ★ Suffer in Silence
Start 2m left of Spare a Thought. The line diagonally leftward, through a roof and onward to anchors. The top seeps after heavy rain, pointless getting on it then. An engaging sequence at the start leads to easier climbing taking full advantage of the rest midway, then the roof to the anchors. Resist the urge to campus off the flake in the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 12m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Spare a Thought
Starts at the obvious crack 4m left of the right hand end of the wall. Up crack then veer right at the steepening then back to the crack. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 12m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Brazen Alternate Start
Avoids the hard bouldery start of Brazen making it a little more palatable. Start up Spare a Thought, clip the second bolt then traverse right and continue up Brazen. FA: John Lattanzio, 21 Apr 2016 | 12m, 8 | |||
23 | ★ Brazen
Start a few meters right of Spare a Thought.. Up the steep slab with a hard, bouldery start, through the bulge and on to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 12m, 8 | |||
24 | ★ Shits and Giggles
Start at arete at per TT, then up leftwards on micro crimps to break. Heave onto wall and up to anchors. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 15m | |||
21 | ★ Tickles on Tour
Start 5m right of B at blunt arete. Hard start, then easier the higher you get. The loose block has been removed, but still take care. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 22m, 7 | |||
Rare Earth Buttress | |||||
20 | ★ Where Eagles Dare
A tricky traddy start guards an easy and juggy wall. 1st 3 RBs on RE and then straight up. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 18m | |||
21 | ★ Rare Earth
The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Smokey Bear
Start as per 'Rare Earth' for 2 bolts, then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors. Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: Jason Lammers, 29 May 2016 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Righteously Silence Me
The original name relates to Neil being a chatterbox whilst belaying - and the leader wanting him to shut the hell up! Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof. FA: Heath Black, 2011 | 14m, 7 | |||
22 | ★ Lithium Ion Direct
The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3. FA: Heath Black, 2011 | 14m | |||
20 | ★★ Lithium Ion
Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof. FA: Heath Black, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Blood Sweat Steel
Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face. Named so because Neil copped a bolt in his forehead resulting in much blood. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 16m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Unobtainium
Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors. FA: Heath Black, 2011 | 14m | |||
19 | ★ The Gold Lead
Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish. FA: Heath Black, 2011 | 14m, 7 | |||
20 | ★ Just Add Gold
Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors. FFA: Ben JengA. | 12m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Nickel Metal Hydride
Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors. FA: Heath Black, 2011 | 12m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Young Rods
Insert your young rods in the opening pockets, crank through the roof using mono and pebble to big pocket. Up the subtle arete feature then join into Pockets of Yttrium for last two bolts. Super quality rock the whole way. FA: Neil Monteith, 13 Jun 2016 | 15m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★★ Pockets Of Yttrium
Starts 5m left of Nickel Metal Hydride left of rounded orange arete under roof. Stand on cairn to reach pockets on lip of roof. Swing over lip powerfully then up wall left of arete to FH and traverse line going left to wide crack. Up and through crack and bulge to double anchors up left. 3 RBs then 4 hangers, another RB to anchors. Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: Jason Lammers, 11 Jun 2016 | 18m | |||
24 | ★★ Scandium
Start up short corner and move right to small ledge and double bolts. Either belay here, or just keep climbing. The orange thin wall on shallow pockets and slimpers to rooflet. Big move over this to huge pocket and finish swinging through the roof above. Currently there is lots of bolts in the crux section, the remains of Rod's original badly placed bolts and Neil's new bolts. Half of them will be removed shortly. Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: Heath Black, 12 Jun 2016 | 17m | |||
24 | ★★ He's Not the Messiah
Starts at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, thin, technical moves up to roof and rightwards, up wall to anchors. Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: John Lattanzio, 11 Jun 2016 | 17m, 11 | |||
22 | ★★ Leper Messiah
Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 16m | |||
20 | ★ Good Strontium
Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Promethium
Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 15m | |||
Project - Rod
Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route. | 15m | ||||
Hard Project
Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish. | 12m | ||||
Quality Junk Sector | |||||
Grey Streak (Glenn Jones Project)
Start as for QJ, then move right and up the grey steak. FA: Project - Glenn | 18m | ||||
23 | ★ Quality Junk
The overhung arete and wall. Scamble up to EZ start and ride the flake with a move about 2/3rds up. Watch that pump ! FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 18m, 7 | |||
Diamond Wall | |||||
18 | Fools Gold
Wall climbing up the black rock just right of the awesome grey/orange rock to anchors under a small overlap. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 18m | |||
20 | ★ Blood Diamond
Awesome climbing up to high anchors just right of big roof. FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Diamond Tipped
Up flake and wall as for 'Blood Diamond' to 3rd bolt, move left and up awesome quality rock to anchors on bulge up high. The extension is 23 FA: Rod Young, 2011 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Diamond Tipped Extension
Finish right of the anchors Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: Rick Phillips, 11 Jun 2016 | 22m | |||
23 | ★★★ A Girls best Friend
Over graded and Over bolted.. The route left of 'Blood Diamond'. Up 3 RB on BD then right for 1 bolt on 'Diamond Tipped', finally up the thin wall to lower offs under the big roof. Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: Jason Lammers, 11 Jun 2016 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★★ Doug the Destroyer
Up AGBF passed the anchour then continue up through the small roof to the obvious crack. Get high into it and finish up the jugs. Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: Andrew Richards, 11 Jun 2016 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ Hit the Motherlode
Starts up 'AGBF', continue leftwards to overlap. Over and up to 2m roof flake, out and up to anchors way out up high! 3 - 1 - 2 Set: Rod Young, 2011 FA: Wade Stewart, 11 Jun 2016 | 25m | |||
Nugget Wall | |||||
22 | ★★ The Hand of Faith
Start as for The Welcome Stranger. Up corner, at the second bolt break right and up wall to anchors. FA: Neil Montieth, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ The Welcome Stranger
Start in the overhanging corner. Up corner until it fades then hard moves past nugget hold to easier wall finish. A sustained and surprisingly steep route. FA: Neil Montieth, 2011 | 15m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★★ Atomic Fluffies
The right hand of two white streaks that leads to a ramp. Stand on the cairn to get a start. Start off a little vegetated ledge. The sustained crux with an interesting sequence relents half way up to an engaging and awkward top section. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 18m, 11 | |||
22 | ★★ This one time, at Band Camp
Stand on flake and reach over and clip the 1st bolt. Pull down hard and crank up wall to break. Have a rest and climb the sustained wall to the top. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Fluffin the Muffin
Start in the corner. Up the corner to a little ledge then up the wall. The bottom corner looks a little ordinary but worth doing for the business up top. Keeps you working for it. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 20m, 9 | |||
16 | ★ Who Let Fluffy Off the Chain
Start 3m left of the corner at the crack. Follow crack then face to top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 9m, 7 | |||
The Sluice Box | |||||
23 | ★★ Angelic Upstart
Climbs the seam and face just left of the arete. Start 3m left of the gully. Climb through a little bit of ordinary rock to get to the gold. Up the seam and on to the technical slab and through to easier ground to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 18m, 9 | |||
21 | ★ Whippersnapper
Start as for Angelic Upstart. Takes the left line of bolts after the 3rd bolt of Angelic Upstart. Thin and technical climbing to the ledge (it's ok to step on the shrubbery) then easy to top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 20m, 10 | |||
Project Woof
Not bolted yet. It starts about 4 m to the right of Pavlovian. I guess it needs a Batman start (unfortunately), up to a ridiculously hard roof move and then sustained face climb. At least grade 24, I reckon. PROJECT UP FOR GRABS! Top part could also be a more appropriate variant of Pavlovian. Set: Steven Griffiths | |||||
24 | ★★ Pavlovian Response
Don't let the batman start put you off as the climbing is both exciting and technical. Start under the hanging corner/seam next to a small spotted gum. You'll need Batman's assistance and sports a couple of rungs to assist. Layback and bridge the steep corner/seam to the roof, launch right to the jugs, then on to the easier exposed arete to the anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 23m, 13 | |||
22 | ★★ Rite of Passage
Great climbing with the crux down low followed by easier and enjoyable climbing to the top. Start as for Moral Compass to the 2nd bolt. Traverse right and up to the obvious crack which is followed then up the easier wall to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012 | 23m, 11 | |||
23 | ★★ Moral Compass
Ascends the attractive blank looking wall bounded on the right by twin cracks and on the left by a corner and large roof. Start off the block. Superb, thin and sustained climbing to the footledge is followed by a sustained easier jaunt to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011 | 22m, 11 | |||
24 | ★★ Heaven Sent
Start as for Moral Compass,then step left at the second bolt. Thought provoking and sustained climbing to gain the foot ledges with a final tricky move before the cruise to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 22 Nov 2014 | 19m, 12 | |||
22 | ★ Mugged By Reality
Takes the line just right of the bushy corner Start on the grassy ledge. Some thin sequences at the start lead to a mantle and on to the flake system and on to the anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2013 | 15m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ Struggle Street
Starts at the left end of a long ledge a few meters off the ground, accessed with the aid of a fixed rope handrail. Single bolt belay. The right hand route. Plenty of climbing in this short route. FA: John Lattanzio, 29 Apr 2017 | 8m, 6 | |||
24 | ★ Toothless and Tattooed
Same belay as Struggle Street. The left hand route just right of the hanging arete. FA: John Lattanzio, 13 May 2017 | 7m, 5 |