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Description

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the Easy Pickings Walls to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high Rare Earth Buttress. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

Access issues inherited from Lasseter's

No access issue - bolt away!

Approach

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the 'Easy Pickings Walls' to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high 'Rare Earth Buttress'. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

© (wogdog)

Ethic inherited from Lasseter's

Sport Climbing Crag

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Where Eagles Dare Sport 18m

A tricky traddy start guards an easy and juggy wall. 1st 3 RBs on RE and then straight up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

2
21 * Rare Earth Sport 20m

The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

3
23 * Smokey Bear Sport 15m

Start as per 'Rare Earth' for 2 bolts, then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors.

Set by Rod Young, 2011

FA: Jason Lammers, 2016

4
21 ** Violently Silence Me Sport 14m, 7

Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

5
22 * Lithium Ion Direct Sport 14m

The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

6
20 ** Lithium Ion Sport 15m, 7

Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

7
23 ** Blood Sweat Steel Sport 16m, 8

Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face. Named so because Neil copped a bolt in his forehead resulting in much blood.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

8
21 ** Unobtainium Sport 14m

 Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

9
18 * The Gold Lead Sport 14m, 7

  Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

10
20 ** Just Add Gold Sport 12m, 7

Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors.

FFA: Ben JengA.

11
22 ** Nickel Metal Hydride Sport 12m, 6

Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

12
24 ** Young Rods Sport 15m, 7

Insert your young rods in the opening pockets, crank through the roof using mono and pebble to big pocket. Up the subtle arete feature then join into Pockets of Yttrium for last two bolts. Super quality rock the whole way.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2016

13
23 *** Pockets Of Yttrium Sport 18m

Starts 5m left of Nickel Metal Hydride left of rounded orange arete under roof. Stand on cairn to reach pockets on lip of roof. Swing over lip powerfully then up wall left of arete to FH and traverse line going left to wide crack. Up and through crack and bulge to double anchors up left. 3 RBs then 4 hangers, another RB to anchors.

Set by Rod Young, 2011

FA: Jason Lammers, 2016

14
24 ** Scandium Sport 17m

Start up short corner and move right to small ledge and double bolts. Either belay here, or just keep climbing. The orange thin wall on shallow pockets and slimpers to rooflet. Big move over this to huge pocket and finish swinging through the roof above. Currently there is lots of bolts in the crux section, the remains of Rod's original badly placed bolts and Neil's new bolts. Half of them will be removed shortly.

Set by Rod Young, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 2016

15
24 ** He's Not the Messiah Sport 17m, 11

Starts at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, thin, technical moves up to roof and rightwards, up wall to anchors.

Set by Rod Young, 2011

FA: John Lattanzio, 2016

16
22 ** Leper Messiah Sport 16m

Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

17
20 * Good Strontium Sport 20m

Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

18
18 * Promethium Sport 15m

Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

19
Project - Rod Unknown 15m

Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route.

20
Hard Project Unknown 12m

Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish.

Activity

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