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Description

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the Easy Pickings Walls to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high Rare Earth Buttress. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

Approach

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the 'Easy Pickings Walls' to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high 'Rare Earth Buttress'. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

© (wogdog)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Where Eagles Dare Sport 18m

A tricky traddy start guards an easy and juggy wall. 1st 3 RBs on RE and then straight up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

2
21 * Rare Earth Sport 20m

The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

3
Bundy Project Sport Project 15m

Start as per RE and then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

4
21 *** Violently Silence Me Sport 14m, 7

Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof.

5
22 * Lithium Ion Direct Sport 14m

The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3.

6
20 ** Lithium Ion Sport 15m, 7

Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof.

7
23 ** Blood Sweat Steel Sport 16m, 8

Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face.

FA: Neil Monteith

8
21 ** Unobtainium Sport 14m

 Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors.

9
18 * The Gold Lead Sport 14m, 7

  Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish.

10
20 ** Just add gold Sport 7

Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors.

FFA: Ben JengA.

11
22 * Nickel Metal Hydride Sport 12m, 6

Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors.

12

Starts around left of Nickel Metal Hydride left of rounded orange arete under roof. Start on ledge at ground level below obvious pockets. Climb pockets and wall left of arete to trend up and left towards crack. Up and through crack and bulge to double anchors up left. (first 3 bolts and last bolt & anchors in so far.)

13
project 4 RE Sport Project 18m

Climb the first bolts of 2RE up pockets, move left and go across ledge left to double anchors. Belay here. The thin wall to roof and out pocket and roof heading rightwards to anchors over the lip. (2 more bolts to be added in thin wall.).

14
project 3 RE Sport Project 20m

Starts right of Leper Messiah, but down at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, unfortunately forced a bit left into LP for a couple of moves, up to roof and out roof rightward, up wall to anchors.

15
22 ** Leper Messiah Sport 16m

Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

16
20 Good Strontium Sport 20m

Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

17
18 Promethium Sport 15m

Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

18
Project - Rod Unknown 15m

Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route.

19
Hard Project Unknown 12m

Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish.