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Table of contents

1. Rare Earth Buttress 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport
Description:

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the Easy Pickings Walls to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high Rare Earth Buttress. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

Approach:© (wogdog)

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the 'Easy Pickings Walls' to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high 'Rare Earth Buttress'. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Where Eagles Dare

A tricky traddy start guards an easy and juggy wall. 1st 3 RBs on RE and then straight up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

20Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Rare Earth

The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

21Sport 20m
3 Bundy Project

Start as per RE and then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 15m
4 *** Violently Silence Me

Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof.

21Sport 14m, 7
5 * Lithium Ion Direct

The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3.

22Sport 14m
6 ** Lithium Ion

Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof.

20Sport 15m, 7
7 ** Blood Sweat Steel

Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Sport 16m, 8
8 ** Unobtainium

 Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors.

21Sport 14m
9 * The Gold Lead

  Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish.

18Sport 14m, 7
10 ** Just add gold

Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors.

FFA: Ben JengA.

20Sport 7
11 * Nickel Metal Hydride

Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors.

22Sport 12m, 6
12 project (Pockets Of Yttrium)

Starts around left of Nickel Metal Hydride left of rounded orange arete under roof. Start on ledge at ground level below obvious pockets. Climb pockets and wall left of arete to trend up and left towards crack. Up and through crack and bulge to double anchors up left. (first 3 bolts and last bolt & anchors in so far.)

Sport Project 18m
13 project 4 RE

Climb the first bolts of 2RE up pockets, move left and go across ledge left to double anchors. Belay here. The thin wall to roof and out pocket and roof heading rightwards to anchors over the lip. (2 more bolts to be added in thin wall.).

Sport Project 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 project 3 RE

Starts right of Leper Messiah, but down at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, unfortunately forced a bit left into LP for a couple of moves, up to roof and out roof rightward, up wall to anchors.

Sport Project 20m
15 ** Leper Messiah

Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

22Sport 16m
16 Good Strontium

Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

20Sport 20m
17 Promethium

Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

18Sport 15m
18 Project - Rod

Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route.

Unknown 15m
19 Hard Project

Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish.

Unknown 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
18 Promethium Sport 15m
* The Gold Lead Sport 14m, 7
20 Good Strontium Sport 20m
** Just add gold Sport 7
** Lithium Ion Sport 15m, 7
Where Eagles Dare Sport 18m
21 * Rare Earth Sport 20m
** Unobtainium Sport 14m
*** Violently Silence Me Sport 14m, 7
22 ** Leper Messiah Sport 16m
* Lithium Ion Direct Sport 14m
* Nickel Metal Hydride Sport 12m, 6
23 ** Blood Sweat Steel Sport 16m, 8
? Bundy Project Sport Project 15m
Hard Project Unknown 12m
Project - Rod Unknown 15m
project (Pockets Of Yttrium) Sport Project 18m
project 3 RE Sport Project 20m
project 4 RE Sport Project 18m