Topo #4639

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
11 * Nickel Metal Hydride

Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors.

22 Sport 12m, 6 Unlink route
10 ** Just add gold

Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors.

20 Sport 7 Unlink route
9 * The Gold Lead

  Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish.

18 Sport 14m, 7 Unlink route
8 ** Unobtainium

 Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors.

21 Sport 14m Unlink route
7 ** Blood Sweat Steel

Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face.

23 Sport 16m, 8 Unlink route
6 ** Lithium Ion

Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof.

20 Sport 15m, 7 Unlink route
5 * Lithium Ion Direct

The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3.

22 Sport 14m Unlink route
4 *** Violently Silence Me

Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof.

21 Sport 14m, 7 Unlink route
3 Bundy Project

Start as per RE and then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors.

Sport Project 15m Unlink route
2 * Rare Earth

The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors.

21 Sport 20m Unlink route

Topo #4641

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Topo Routes resequence
Route Grade Popularity Style
17 Promethium

Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff.

18 Sport 15m Unlink route
16 Good Strontium

Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall.

20 Sport 20m Unlink route
15 ** Leper Messiah

Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop.

22 Sport 16m Unlink route
14 project 3 RE

Starts right of Leper Messiah, but down at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, unfortunately forced a bit left into LP for a couple of moves, up to roof and out roof rightward, up wall to anchors.

Sport Project 20m Unlink route