A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. The Gold Mine 74 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.474174, -35.061734

Description:

This major shady cliffline is the very best of the New Nowra crags, featuring several sectors of excellent pocketed rock and more importantly height. The fine grained grey and white rock has a particular 'limestone' like texture in many places. The entire cliff faces south west and receives almost no sun - but is strangely great in the middle of winter. Summer is ok as well due to strong breezes. At 30m high the routes at the Gold Mine are some of the longest at Nowra, and many are true classics of the south coast. Bolts are plentiful - this is a sport only crag. The biggest downside is the rough road approach, the rap in access (20m from the carpark!) and the complex and hairy exit up a series of ladders, rungs and ledges. It is not suitable for kids, pets or geriatrics. The best crags are Cafe Cruiser, Fernville and Wasp in the Willows.

Approach:

The Gold Mine is located about 20 minutes South-West of the Nowra CBD and Thompsons Point. The last few kilometres of the drive are on rough roads that are only really suitable for cars that don't mind a bit of mud and rocks. After heavy rain a 4WD is mandatory - a Forestor or Xtrail is fine.

From Nowra: Continue along Braidwood road towards TJF.

  1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.

  2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.

  3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left. Drive through open gate. Continue on this dirt road ignoring right turn.

  4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right it should have a small "fire trail sign". From this point the road is much rougher and there are sections which stay muddy for most of the year.

  5. 6.3km: Continue along this road until it finishes at a small parking area and turing circle. Don't park others in!

Walk 25 metres down the trail to cliff edge - directly out from the giant big dead tree is a rap anchor on a little ledge. Fix a line here or rap and pull a doubled rope here (it's 30m to the ground - a doubled 50m rope WILL NOT REACH). The rap route is straight down the west end of Rockn' Tree Cave.

Alternatively, to access the base of the cliff (without rapping in) walk toward the cliff and pick up a faint trail leading to the left. After about 200m the trail leads you into a gully. Take care at the top of the gully due to loose earth and rotten rock. Trend leftward to reach the first set rungs to gain the terrace. Go right along the terrace, again take care though the sword grass and wet ground to reach the second set of rungs. Once at the base of the cliff walk right (facing out), keeping as close to the cliff as possible, for about 50m to find a fixed ladder and rope. Scale this ladder to reach Wind Willows Wall. About 10 minutes walk from car.

History:

The area was originally discovered in 2006 by Greg Wilson who bolted and climbed quite a few of the most obvious lines at each crag. After failing to get anyone else enthused he lost interest in this crag (but did return years later to chop some retrobolts) and the cliff remained ignored and forgotten until 2011 when the New Nowra crew of Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers and others got wind of the area. They solved the walk-in access route by installing rungs and ladders and bolted every inch of the place. The name of this crag was changed to The Gold Mine due to community sensitivities.

1.1. 22000lbs area 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:© (bundybear)

A long forgotten wall at the far left end of the cliff, currently very overgrown and unloved. There is potential here for a couple of new routes.

Approach:© (bundybear)

About 50m left of Smoke and Mirrors rap in area. 'Access' is from above by rap or from below via two metal rungs and some old rope. Currently very unloved and base is thick with ferns.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Last in Line

The arete. Stick clip the first bolt, then power through the bouldery start to easier climbing in a nice position.

FA: Greg Wilson

25Sport 20m
2 ** 22000lbs of Thrust

Orange face left of arête. An easy tick, check it out...

FA: 2006

21Sport 20m

1.2. White Pocketed Wall 0 routes in Sector

Description:

Nice white pocketed wall which is capped by a small roof. There is potential for some classics here, as well as several easy shorter routes. There easy exit climb to get you back on the track. Probably about 250m from the car park.. Just past this is a waterfall, and then you will be at Lassiters

1.3. Smoke and Mirrors 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Description:

30 mtrs further south from Rick Rollers...Locate three trees growing clumped together rap 25 metres to the Ledge of Luxury! Bring lunch and a bean bag for the five star effect

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Flame

Same start as for smoking mirrors continuing the traverse along the lip of the cave out to the arette continuing up arette to finish at anchor for boab business.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport 30m, 12
2 *** Sun Dance Kid

same start as for SM then breaks off to the right about half way up, following the orange flake and up through the crack along the small roof, then moving to the top trending right.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

24Sport 27m, 10
3 *** Smoking Mirrors

Looks amazing, is amazing !! Awesome rock. Start off the ledge as per DD, keep heading right out on the wall and follow the flake feature in ridiculous position. Following the line straight up where the black rock meets the orange rock all the way to top.

Set by Jake Noblett, 2013

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

23Sport 25m, 10
4 * Dumpster Diving

Step right off ledge, using insecure feet to gain the arete. Thin holds lead to a thank god jug and you move onto the other wall and steeply to the top

FA: Rick, Bundy and Jake

22Sport 20m
5 ** Tic-tac-toe

Same start as DD, then directly up thru the bulges with increasing pump - eases off the higher you get.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2013

FA: Jason Lammers and Rick Phillips, 2013

23Sport 20m
6 Fuck the Mojo - Bundy Project

Shared start with the others and then up and back left fighing the pump to a delicate crux. Once you have reached the giant pocket its smooth sailing to the top. Hand over the top to clip single bolt. Back jump to anchors below the rooflet to clean.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 20m
7 *** Where's The Gold

starts on the left side of ledge going straight up to anchors. Same finish as for FTM.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport 20m, 9

1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Some great quality rock but some high admin access! This novelty sector features a spectacular hanging belay off a 'permaledge' - a permanent portaledge bolted to the rock. All the climbs here are magnificent quality and with the bonus exposure make for some of the best routes at The Gold Mine.

Approach:

Walk about 100m north of the carpark along the cliff top - and find a large rock cairn marking the top of this sector. Near the edge of the cliff below the cairns are two rap rings set on horizontal rock just below a large tree. Fix a 35m+ rope and rap 20m down to cosy permaledge. Stay clipped in at ALL times and be careful not to tip the ledge. You will have to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock. When you are finished climbing here, rap an extra 15m to the floor and walk right along cliff base to reach Cafe Cruiser Wall and the usual exit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Who's Who in the Climbing Zoo

Pretty airy! Up off the ledge for one bolt then traverse right, across corner to overhung arete. Up this taking the right most line of bolts over the sucking void.

Set by Jason Lammers & Rick Phiilips, 2013

FA: Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2013

22Sport 20m
2 * Hypocritical Has Beens

At last, an easy way off the permaledge. Traverse right to adjoining wall and continue steeply to top. Not as great a climb as the others off this ledge but good all the same

FA: Rick Phillips, Jake Noblett and Doug Bell

18Sport 20m
3 Jenga's the best and bundy has way to many projects.- PROJECT

Up HR, then move right under rooflet. Find the pocket and up the easy wall.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 20m
4 ** High Roller / Six Pack Tummies

Great quality rock, with some amazing pockets down low. The right line of bolts off the permalegde, sharing the first couple of bolts with Crash Test Dummies. Might be grade 25.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 20m
5 *** Jungle Love

Climb start for 'High Roller' clipping first 4 bolts, take a 3-4m run out traverse to the left to clip bolt just above roof on 'Crash Test Dummies'. Continuing to traverse the juggy roof merging up to anchor of '3D Disco'.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2014

25Sport 25m, 10
6 ** Crash Test Dummies

Great sustained climbing all the way. Follows the line you rap down to access the permaledge. Shared first bolt with High Roller then straight up (with difficulty) to roof. Take care not to pull on the lip of the tempting roof-flake (marked with an X). It flexes and is directly above your belayer!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport 20m
7 *** 3D Disco

A killer line in an outrages position. One of the best routes at the Gold Mine. Step left with difficulty off the permaledge over the void to reach the undercling flake. Follow it to the corner then up this on massive jugs and finish up headwall. Lower-off into space and get your belayer to lasso you and haul you back in again. You will need a 2nd to clean the route.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

20Sport 20m
8 ** Protein Pill

Follow 3D Disco all the way to the end of the steepness, then take left trending rings up grey face.

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 22m
9 *** Frequent Flyer Points

Follow the juggy flake as for 3D Disco to a rest just bellow the roof. Move off through the roof, left of the major corner, following the lower flake, then moving out and up the head wall. The quality of the rock on this route is crazy cool!

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

24Sport 20m, 11
10 *** Boab Business

Wow. This climb rips it in the way of exciting moves, exposure, sweet location and great quality rock. Possibly worthy of 4 stars! The first half of the route shares the start of 3D Disco up to the rest. After moving onto the roof, merge off 3D Disco, traversing left through the lower flake of the roof, staying below the bolts until moving out of the roof onto the face. Traverse left along the face to the arette, following arette to the top.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport Project 31m, 15

1.5. Amazonia 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

The section of impressive roofs to the left of Cafe Cruiser Wall, with thickset jungle at the base. Only one route here so far.

Approach:

Walk 30m left of Cafe Cruiser Wall, trying not to get your feet wet and not slipping down the ferny hillside. Keep about 5m away from the cliffline on a ledge system until you can spot the stone steps leading up to the base of the routes. Don't step in the orange slime!

Descent Notes:

The routes here are 30m high - use a long rope.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * More Fun Than a Bunch of Monkeys

Ridiculous steepness. The middle corner section seeps after rain, but can be mostly avoided by stemming, Stick-clip very high ringbolt and batman up to it. Tricky move up onto slab, then easy jugs up vertical wall to right edge of massive roof. Negotiate past green slime corner, then swing left and out massive roof on amazing horns to lip. Tough move over this then up overhung grey wall for even more pump. Cleaning this route involves either a willing second or a combo or re-threading and back-jumping.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

24Sport Project 28m, 11
2 ** Amazonia

Really steep climbing on excellent rock - once you get past the first few metres. Either sketch up the brittle start or batman up to first bolt (add a star if you do this!). Hard move at first bolt involving slopers and a tricky highstep layback section. Up juggy flakes to mega roof - out this on mostly big holds and finish up killer headwall. Extended runners to avoid rope drag.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 30m, 11
3 Adventureland (NEIL'S PROJECT)

Biggest, steepest line at The Gold Mine. Start as for Amazonia for 3 bolts then take the left line through the roof and out out out. Overhangs at least 10m. Closed project - stay off please.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

Sport Project 30m

1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This impressive bulging white wall contains some of the best mid grade routes in the Nowra region. At 30m high, the routes here are long and sustained on excellent quality rock. Get ready to get pumped! A single set of rungs gets you up onto the start ledge of the middle routes. WARNING - a 60m rope is required!

Approach:

The wall is 20m west of the carpark - rap in.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs. 60m rope required.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Drop Tongue

As per Bromance, and keep moving left to obvious belay ledge. Camp out and battle the tougue and steepness on the second pitch.

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport Project 32m
2 Black Butt (Bromance Direct)

Direct start to 'Bromance' starting about 6m left of the rungs. Stick clip first bolt and batman (climbable in dry conditions) up so you don't get your feet wet in the muddy start. Bouldery on pockets then jam up the hand crack to join into 'Bromance'.

Alternatively, (for a more strenuous finish), head left and do the 2nd pitch of 'Drop Tongue'.

21Sport 30m
3 *** Bromance

Up CC for a few bolts and then move left and up thru the bulges to top

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 30m
4 *** Café Cruiser

Probably the best 20 in Nowra. Obvious start then up to the flake and jug your way to the top.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

20Sport 30m
5 *** Sucked in Spartacus

Off belay ledge, trend left two bolts then straight up on flakes till the over laps

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 25m, 12
6 *** You can't handle me Ruth

Off belay ledge and takes the left line of bolts nearly straight up, climbing small flakes and pockets till jugs thru the mini roof

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 30m
7 ** Short Sharp Explanation

Off belay ledge the Right hand line of bolts nearly straight up, climbs the large flake and up thru the roof

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

24Sport 25m
8 *** Forest Stump

Back down on the ground, furthest most right line of bolts up wall using underclings and small pockets, hard thru overhangs.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport 28m
9 * 97% Fern Free

Fern Free variant of BP. Up BP, till it gets easy then trend left up to crimps past 3 more RB's. Finish on FS anchor.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 25m
10 ** Bumpin' Peepees

Start 2m right of ST. Bouldery to gain the flake, then up the slabby stuff and into the steeper stuff to finish with a jug haul.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 23m, 11

1.7. Rock'n Tree Cave 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This huge cave is the most impressive bit of rock at The Goldmine. It begins with a slippery grey 'slab' for the first 10m then overhangs alarmingly through several major roof sections and caps with a section of pocketed grey headwall. All routes are long - a 30m rope is required for lowering off, and long slings are needed to stop rope drag.

Approach:

Located immediately right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and directly below the carpark. If you use the access rap chains you rap down the left side of this wall.

Descent Notes:

Due to steepness all routes require back jumping.

History:

'Monty' equipped the first route here but waited two years to actually send it. Matt Pascoe had the real vision and equipped the two longest and steepest sections.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Simple Life

The hardest route at New Nowra? Left most line directly up through the massive steepness. Scramble up shale mess to small ledge. Bouldery and unlikely start onto the white white (ignore seepy seam) - then up and out out out. Spaced bolting.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

FA: Matt Pascoe, 2013

29Sport Project 25m, 8
2 Open Project

As for The Simple Life for three bolts, then right and through centre of cave. Runout and hard.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

Sport Project 25m, 9
3 Project - Matt B

Start as for Jerkyll and Hyde but follow the scoop to join the open project. Follow this till the last bolt on the roof, then move diagonally R to join J&H again at the lip.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport Project 30m, 12
4 *** Jerkyll & Hyde

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Pascoe, 2013

25Sport 30m, 13

1.8. Ugly Duckling Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This poxy section between Rockn' Tree Cave and Fernville has a couple of questionable routes that feature seeping and creaking flakes, glue, rungs and lichen. Only for the climber who has done everything else in the region. Stars are given from the first ascentist. Be warned - it is unlikely any of these routes have had a repeat.

Approach:

This section of cliff starts immediately right of Rockn' Tree Cave and left of Fernville. Look for the section of rock you would least like to climb.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs less than 25m up the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Remorseless

Climbs the left side of the obvious arete at the right end of Rockn' Tree Cave starting left of the corner to a ledge right of the chimney. Awkward start is overcome by bridging of the tree to a rest, thin face climbing on good holds leads to the arete. The start seeps badly after rain and the upper section is dirty.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

21Sport 15m, 9
2 * Ugly Duckling

Start at the tiny alcove 6m right of the left end of the grey wall. Up the steep flake system, using the staples at the start to keep your feet dry and trying to avoid the seep. Some awsome barndoor moves to gain the upper flake then steep wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

25Sport 15m, 9
3 * Pleasure Spiked With Pain

Start in the middle of the grey wall. A bouldery sequence leads to sustained climbing which relents at half height to a pleasurable jaunt above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 25m, 12
4 * Waste of Sin

Start at the right hand end of the grey wall under the arching overlap feature in between two endless seeping water streaks. Thin and technical down low, engaging (ie crumbly) climbing above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

22Sport 15m, 8

1.9. Fernville 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:© (ropedonkey)

A great section of pocketed vertical wall that is generously grid bolted. The style is more technical and sustained than powerful. Just look for the sea of ferns and the outstanding buttress of Powder Burns.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

About 100m right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and just right of the Ugly Duckling Wall. To the right of this section of cliff is a long section of ultra choss monster roofs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Very Thick Piece of Toast

The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

25Sport 15m, 9
2 *** Tecktonik

2m right of VTPoT. Up on little pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

24Sport 14m
3 *** Pocket Shot

Start as for WtBF, vere leftwards at 2nd bolt to nice flake and follow the awesome pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

23Sport 16m, 6
4 * What's This Button For?

One of the original lines at the Gold Mine. Up the pockets to lower offs under the roof.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

22Sport 15m
5 ** Just Desserts are Not Slimming

Start up the boulder to clip first bolt then jump on wall and blast out through the roof. Back jump roof to clean. Be careful of suss flakes in roof. Originally graded 25, but most now consider it more like 23/24.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

24Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Resurrection

Up the fallen boulder clipping bolt on left then on wall crimping like a Banshee.

FA: Gilles Bonin, 2011

21Sport 12m
7 ** Caught Napping

Up block in corner then straight up wall to anchors just right of roof.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

21Sport 15m
8 ** Cover Boy

Up slab then step onto ferny ledge on right. Crank up sweet (or desperate) diagonal finger crack leading rightwards.

FA: Jesse Lomas, 2006

22Sport 16m
9 *** Powder Burns

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt and grovel into ferny corner on the left until level with the first bolt. Now traverse hard right past first bolt and up pocketed face above. Harder direct start seems possible, but no one appears to have done it. The actual first ascentist of this route remains a mystery.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

25Sport 20m

1.10. Wasp in the Willows 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Great rock and friendly grades with lots of bolts will ensure this area is popular with the masses. Most routes stay dry in the light rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zis is KAOS

The only true easy route at the Gold Mine. Start at the ledgy handcrack at left end of the wall. Jam easily up the crack and pull the scoopy bulge to the anchors.

FA: Jon Porter, 2011

17Sport 15m, 7
2 ** Snitch

Start 1m right of Zis is KAOS. Thin and technical climbing with a burly finish.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 13m, 7
3 ** After the Rapture

This one was done on the day the world was supposed to end.Start 3m left of BotB. Bulging wall which is technical and sustained.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 15m, 8
4 * Battle of the Bulge

5m left of DF

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 15m, 6
5 ** Dragon Fly

2m left of WiW thin climbing at start leads to crux with great steep moves at top.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 ** Truck stop Party Girl

Just left of WiW, but crosses over mid height and thru the roof and up to jugs.

FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011

22Sport 22m
7 ** Wasp in the Willows

Up the crack that stops at 5m, climbs the pockets and features left of crack thru the bulges. Way cool !

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

18Sport 25m
8 Skirt Wearing Nancyboy

Rick named this climb after himself. Stand on big flake, tricky start and then nice crimping to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

19Sport 15m
9 Foreplay

Choice of 2 starts, then up on nice rock.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

16Sport 15m
10 Espresso

Right of F, up the crack then into the white streak.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Buckingham Bunga

Start at the crack in the middle of the orange wall, and then up and thru the roof to finish on head wall.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

21Sport 22m
12 After Dinner Sex Games

The next crack along. Up crack and up into beaut easy rock to shared lower off with TBBC

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

18Sport 18m
13 * The Bunga Bunga Climb

Shares 1st bolt with BJ, then up and left on awesome pockets with an iteresting finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

21Sport 18m
14 ** Beetle Juice

15m right of WiW near large boulder in corner.

FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011

21Sport 15m

1.11. Sandpaper Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Bordering the right side of Wasp in the Willows is this long vertical wall with a confusing array of bolts. All but one of the routes share the same start - up the thin crack. This crack tends to seep down low, and sometimes requires a batman start.

Approach:

This section of cliff is directly above the fixed aluminum ladder, and just right of Wasp in the Willows sector.

Descent Notes:

Watch your rope length when lowering off - these climbs are a touch higher than 25m.

History:

As usual Greg Wilson bolted the original route on this sector, Sandpaper Sally, and Bundy and Rick covered the remaining rock in rings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hung Out To Dry

Whilst not the greatest rock quality the height, sea views and friendly jugs make for one of the best easy routes here. Layback up the right facing corner then up the sustained face above. This is a good end of day exit route if you top out.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

17Sport 25m
2 ** Fair weather trainer

Up 'Sandpaper Sally' for 3 bolts then, lean out left on big sidepull and up the long wall. Sustained !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 26m
3 ** Sandpaper Sally

Starts in the small seam and follows till it blanks out, take a rest in the cave then up the awesome long headwall.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

18Sport 24m
4 * Air Active

As per SS, then step right over cave and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 25m
5 * Ocean Views

Up SS and at first bolt take the right hand line up the middle of wall.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

19Sport 28m

1.12. Wringer Wall 2 routes in Feature

Summary:
Description:

A steep orange wall located between the two sets of rungs, above the rope handrail, on the descent. The base is usually muddy and unpleasant to belay from.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Through the Wringer

Leftward diagonal line starting a few meters before the rope handrail, finishing through a little roof. Some nice slabbing then burly moves through the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport Project 15m, 8
2 Wrung Out (Project Wogdog)

Start mid way along the rope handrail. Thrugh black rock to crack and scooped bulge.

Sport Project 14m, 10

1.13. Descent Gully Walls 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

A shorter vertical wall that you pass when descending the highest set of rungs (before the highest section of the fixed ropes). The rock is a little sandy but the bolts are plentiful.

Approach:

From the carpark walk about 200m east (left when standing on the top of the cliff looking at the view). Follow a few yellow tape markers and a well worn track to a steep loose descent gully. Down this for a 10m then left along ledge system below short cliff to first set of rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rock Dodgin Lawn Bowlin Granny

First route on the descent of the gully. Up via 3 bolts trending onto wall between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Ok just a bit gritty.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

15Sport 6m, 5
2 Forlorn Bowls

Start on ledge above upper set of rungs on the descent. Up the right facing flake.

FA: Bob Macmillan, 2011

17Sport 14m, 6
3 Token

1m left of Thin Edge of the Wedge at small corner with hand crack up left side. Up corner for four metres to ledge then up juggy face.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

15Sport 13m, 4
4 * Thin Edge of the Wedge

Nice warmup and probably the best 'easy' route at the Goldmine. Thin crack with lots of jugs on grey wall about 3m right of access rungs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

16Sport 13m, 5

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
15 Rock Dodgin Lawn Bowlin Granny Sport 6m, 5 1.13. Descent Gully Walls
Token Sport 13m, 4 1.13. Descent Gully Walls
16 Foreplay Sport 15m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Thin Edge of the Wedge Sport 13m, 5 1.13. Descent Gully Walls
17 Zis is KAOS Sport 15m, 7 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Hung Out To Dry Sport 25m 1.11. Sandpaper Wall
Forlorn Bowls Sport 14m, 6 1.13. Descent Gully Walls
18 * Hypocritical Has Beens Sport 20m 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
After Dinner Sex Games Sport 18m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Wasp in the Willows Sport 25m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Sandpaper Sally Sport 24m 1.11. Sandpaper Wall
19 Skirt Wearing Nancyboy Sport 15m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Ocean Views Sport 28m 1.11. Sandpaper Wall
20 *** 3D Disco Sport 20m 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
*** Bromance Sport 30m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Café Cruiser Sport 30m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
Espresso Sport 15m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Air Active Sport 25m 1.11. Sandpaper Wall
21 ** 22000lbs of Thrust Sport 20m 1.1. 22000lbs area
Black Butt (Bromance Direct) Sport 30m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
** Bumpin' Peepees Sport 23m, 11 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Sucked in Spartacus Sport 25m, 12 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Remorseless Sport 15m, 9 1.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
** Caught Napping Sport 15m 1.9. Fernville
Resurrection Sport 12m 1.9. Fernville
** Beetle Juice Sport 15m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
Buckingham Bunga Sport 22m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
* The Bunga Bunga Climb Sport 18m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Through the Wringer Sport Project 15m, 8 1.12. Wringer Wall
22 * Dumpster Diving Sport 20m 1.3. Smoke and Mirrors
** Protein Pill Sport 22m 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
** Who's Who in the Climbing Zoo Sport 20m 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
*** You can't handle me Ruth Sport 30m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Waste of Sin Sport 15m, 8 1.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
** Cover Boy Sport 16m 1.9. Fernville
* What's This Button For? Sport 15m 1.9. Fernville
* Battle of the Bulge Sport 15m, 6 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Dragon Fly Sport 15m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Truck stop Party Girl Sport 22m 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Fair weather trainer Sport 26m 1.11. Sandpaper Wall
23 *** Smoking Mirrors Sport 25m, 10 1.3. Smoke and Mirrors
** Tic-tac-toe Sport 20m 1.3. Smoke and Mirrors
** Crash Test Dummies Sport 20m 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
* 97% Fern Free Sport 25m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Drop Tongue Sport Project 32m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Forest Stump Sport 28m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Pocket Shot Sport 16m, 6 1.9. Fernville
** After the Rapture Sport 15m, 8 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
24 *** Sun Dance Kid Sport 27m, 10 1.3. Smoke and Mirrors
*** Frequent Flyer Points Sport 20m, 11 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
* More Fun Than a Bunch of Monkeys Sport Project 28m, 11 1.5. Amazonia
** Short Sharp Explanation Sport 25m 1.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Pleasure Spiked With Pain Sport 25m, 12 1.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
** Just Desserts are Not Slimming Sport 20m 1.9. Fernville
*** Tecktonik Sport 14m 1.9. Fernville
** Snitch Sport 13m, 7 1.10. Wasp in the Willows
25 Last in Line Sport 20m 1.1. 22000lbs area
** High Roller Sport 20m 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
*** Jungle Love Sport 25m, 10 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
** Amazonia Sport 30m, 11 1.5. Amazonia
*** Jerkyll & Hyde Sport 30m, 13 1.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
* Ugly Duckling Sport 15m, 9 1.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
*** Powder Burns Sport 20m 1.9. Fernville
** Very Thick Piece of Toast Sport 15m, 9 1.9. Fernville
26 *** The Flame Sport 30m, 12 1.3. Smoke and Mirrors
*** Where's The Gold Sport 20m, 9 1.3. Smoke and Mirrors
*** Boab Business Sport Project 31m, 15 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
29 *** The Simple Life Sport Project 25m, 8 1.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
? Fuck the Mojo - Bundy Project Sport Project 20m 1.3. Smoke and Mirrors
Jenga's the best and bundy has way to many projects.- PROJECT Sport Project 20m 1.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
Adventureland (NEIL'S PROJECT) Sport Project 30m 1.5. Amazonia
Open Project Sport Project 25m, 9 1.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
Project - Matt B Sport Project 30m, 12 1.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
Wrung Out (Project Wogdog) Sport Project 14m, 10 1.12. Wringer Wall