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Description:

This sector encompasses a number of walls and buttresses starting at a deep cleft/gully just past the sandy traverse under a roof with a fixed rope handline ( care needs to be taken here) and extends to just before you reach the waterfall. There is also an access route with rungs and a fixed rope about 15m left of This Wretched Life. This allows quick access to the top if you find yourself at this end of the crag at the end of the day.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 ** Angelic Upstart

Climbs the seam and face just left of the arete. Start 3m left of the gully. Climb through a little bit of ordinary rock to get to the gold. Up the seam and on to the technical slab and through to easier ground to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23
Sport 18m , 9
2 * Whippersnapper

Start as for Angelic Upstart. Takes the left line of bolts after the 3rd bolt of Angelic Upstart. Thin and technical climbing to the ledge (it's ok to step on the shrubbery) then easy to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

21
Sport 20m , 10
3 *** Pavlovian Response

Don't let the batman start put you off as the climbing is both exciting and technical. Start under the hanging corner/seam next to a small spotted gum. You'll need Batman's assistance and sports a couple of rungs to assist. Layback and bridge the steep corner/seam to the roof, launch right to the jugs, then on to the easier exposed arete to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

24
Sport 23m , 13
4 ** Rite of Passage

Great climbing with the crux down low followed by easier and enjoyable climbing to the top. Start as for Moral Compass to the 2nd bolt. Traverse right and up to the obvious crack which is followed then up the easier wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

22
Sport 23m , 11
5 * Moral Compass

Ascends the attractive blank looking wall bounded on the right by twin cracks and on the left by a corner and large roof. Start off the block. Superb, thin and sustained climbing to the footledge is followed by a sustained easier jaunt to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23
Sport 22m , 11
6 Project Claw

Starts at the little flake line near the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof.

Sport Project 22m
7 Project Wogdog

The rightward leaning arete at the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof. Start directly under the arete.

Sport Project 19m , 10
8 This Wretched Life

An unlikely looking face climb. Start at the obvious corner crack. Climb the easy crack to the ledge then step right and climb the technical face on fabulous rock.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23
Sport 20m , 10
9 Suck It Up Princess

First route on a little buttress about 50m left of a green mossy slab. Start at the obvious little corner with a crack and flake. Climb the steep little crack and onward to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

20
Sport 9m , 6
10 ** Princess Toughenup

Start as for Suck It Up Princess. Thin climbing and funky footwork up the slightly overhung wall left of Suck It Up Princess.

FA: John.Lattanzio, 2012

23
Sport 10m , 6
11 ** Princess Marsh Fly

Start 2m right of 'Lady of the Flies' at the flake seam. A bouldery start leads to sustained, technical climbing.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23
Sport 12m , 7
12 Lady of the Flies

Start at the base of the obvious flake around the corner 10m left of Suck it up Princess. Climb the flake and on to anchors.

FA: Emma Richmond-Darvill, 2012

14
Sport 12m , 6