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Description

This sector encompasses a number of walls and buttresses starting at a deep cleft/gully just past the sandy traverse under a roof with a fixed rope handline ( care needs to be taken here) and extends to just before you reach the waterfall. There is also an access route with rungs and a fixed rope about 15m left of This Wretched Life. This allows quick access to the top if you find yourself at this end of the crag at the end of the day.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 ** Angelic Upstart Sport 18m, 9

Climbs the seam and face just left of the arete. Start 3m left of the gully. Climb through a little bit of ordinary rock to get to the gold. Up the seam and on to the technical slab and through to easier ground to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

2
21 * Whippersnapper Sport 20m, 10

Start as for Angelic Upstart. Takes the left line of bolts after the 3rd bolt of Angelic Upstart. Thin and technical climbing to the ledge (it's ok to step on the shrubbery) then easy to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

3
Project Woof Sport Project

Not bolted yet. It starts about 4 m to the right of Pavlovian. I guess it needs a Batman start (unfortunately), up to a ridiculously hard roof move and then sustained face climb. At least grade 24, I reckon.

PROJECT UP FOR GRABS! Top part could also be a more appropriate variant of Pavlovian.

Set by Steven Griffiths

4
24 *** Pavlovian Response Sport 23m, 13

Don't let the batman start put you off as the climbing is both exciting and technical. Start under the hanging corner/seam next to a small spotted gum. You'll need Batman's assistance and sports a couple of rungs to assist. Layback and bridge the steep corner/seam to the roof, launch right to the jugs, then on to the easier exposed arete to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

5
22 ** Rite of Passage Sport 23m, 11

Great climbing with the crux down low followed by easier and enjoyable climbing to the top. Start as for Moral Compass to the 2nd bolt. Traverse right and up to the obvious crack which is followed then up the easier wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

6
23 * Moral Compass Sport 22m, 11

Ascends the attractive blank looking wall bounded on the right by twin cracks and on the left by a corner and large roof. Start off the block. Superb, thin and sustained climbing to the footledge is followed by a sustained easier jaunt to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

7
24 ** Heaven Sent Sport 19m, 12

Start as for Moral Compass,then step left at the second bolt. Thought provoking and sustained climbing to gain the foot ledges with a final tricky move before the cruise to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 22nd Nov

8
22 * Mugged By Reality Sport 15m, 7

Takes the line just right of the bushy corner Start on the grassy ledge. Some thin sequences at the start lead to a mantle and on to the flake system and on to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

9
Project Wogdog 13 Sport Project 12m, 8

Takes the seam up the overhanging rusty wall 2 m right of the ferny crack.

10
Project Claw Sport Project 22m

Starts at the little flake line near the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof.

11
26 *** Sassy Sport 19m, 10

The rightward leaning arete at the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof. Start directly under the arete.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

12
23 This Wretched Life Sport 20m, 10

An unlikely looking face climb. Start at the obvious corner crack. Climb the easy crack to the ledge then step right and climb the technical face on fabulous rock.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

13
20 Suck It Up Princess Sport 9m, 6

First route on a little buttress about 50m left of a green mossy slab. Start at the obvious little corner with a crack and flake. Climb the steep little crack and onward to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

14
23 ** Princess Toughenup Sport 10m, 6

Start as for Suck It Up Princess. Thin climbing and funky footwork up the slightly overhung wall left of Suck It Up Princess.

FA: John.Lattanzio, 2012

15
23 ** Princess Marsh Fly Sport 12m, 7

Start 2m right of 'Lady of the Flies' at the flake seam. A bouldery start leads to sustained, technical climbing.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

16
14 Lady of the Flies Sport 12m, 6

Start at the base of the obvious flake around the corner 10m left of Suck it up Princess. Climb the flake and on to anchors.

FA: Emma Richmond-Darvill, 2012