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Description

Steeper and more featured than most of Tianjara. Quite long routes which start steep and juggy and finish on slabby crimps. Location: This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully

Approach

This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
** ** Project - Bundy (G6) Sport Project 10m, 5

The only climb on the first orange wall. Bouldery and Fun ! * Still a project *

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

2

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

FA: Bill James, 1950

3
19 * Slab of Death Sport 16m

Up the techo slab just left of JTP

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

4
15 Just Think Pork Sport 16m, 9

Up then right into vertical crack, clipping 1000's of ring bolts to lower offs at 2/3 height. If your a keen trad dad continue up the easy crack to the top to new carrot and tree anchor.

FA: G Hill, 2000

5
18 * Grouple Girl Sport 18m

Start left of GG and up.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

6
15 ** Grouple Guy Sport 15m

Starts on the scoops to the left of the arete then up on great rock. Rebolted 2010

Start: In the sccops left of the arete/face

FA: G Hill, 2000

7
18 * Grouple RHV Sport 20m

Up TD for 2 bolts then climb around grey pillar and up GG to anchors. Still Needs extra bolt.. Aviods the crappy start on GG.

8
22 *** Thriller Direct Sport 18m

Rod's original line. Directly up left side of wall, thru overlap and easily to top. Would be handy with an extra bolt b/w the 4th and 5th.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

9
22 ** Thriller Sport 20m, 7

All killer - no filler. A fun arete. Climb first two bolts of 'Driller', then monkey left across steep pockets to nice arete. Up this through bulge and finish up crimpy face.

10
24 ** Driller Sport 16m, 6

Steep orange face that's dry in any weather, and overhangs about 3m. Steeply through start to big white pocket, then screw your finger into the dubious mono. Come back in two months after finger has healed and pull the move again with success. Finish through roof. Superb rock quality.

Start: Starts 3m left of Rod's Roof.

11
21 Rod's Roof Unknown 25m

Up crazy scoop on the suss jugs, with the rock getting better as you go. Then battle through the roof and doodle up slab to anchors.

Start: Start on right side of raised rock platform.

FA: Rod Young

12
18 Corona with Lemon Sport 30m

A truly tried and tested favorite guaranteed to appease the taste buds. Starts on the far right side of the upper ledge. A little steep on horizontals.

13
18 * Peroni with Pizza Sport 30m

An excellent mid week option!. will prove to be popular. Another long euro-enduro adventure at the grade. Most of these climbs are similar, but this is probably the best one.

FA: Rod Young

14
13 ** Usurper Trad 40m

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

FA: Bill James

15
17 * Sol with Summer Sport 30m

A great addition to the market. fully imported. Sweet on sundays after a recovery brunch.

16

Does it get any better than that?..

recline the chair, sit back and enjoy the contest!

17
20 * Wombat Combat Unknown 35m

A variant start to the route left which fully utilises the orange rock. Look out as a 60 meter rope won't get you off this baby in one hit you will have to break the descent and rap again on FM anchors which are 23 meters off the ground.

Start: As for Fricasse Maison.

FA: G Hill, 2009

18
21 * Fricasse Maison Sport 23m, 10

A little tricky lower down but you will get used to the potential fall unless you take it.

Start: At Wombat Combat under orange wall and three meters left of corner crack Triantithingy.

FA: V Hill, 2009

19

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

FA: G Hill, 1977

20
20 Crispin Licks Sport 12m, 7

Some holds are a little dirty but don't let that put you off. Generally its a pile of rubbish and i can't think of why i wasted seven bolts on it, only to say i liked the name string it would form with the climbs around it which are also rubbish.

Start: Left side of orange cave like structure. Two meters right of crack in corner.

FA: Hill

21
21 ** Chicken Lips Sport 18m, 7

Sustained little pumper with some choice little perfect pockets.

Start: Route that goes up the centre of the orangy cave like structure, between two traddy corners. Scramble up loose stuff onto start ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2008

22
10 Pinch Grip Trad 35m

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

FA: R Chunder G Hill, 1978

23
19 Slippin Chicks Sport 12m, 6

All large items have been disposed of any further holds you rip off are your own fault.

Start: Ledge just right of chicken lips.

FA: G Hill, 2009

24
24 ** Statue of liberty Sport 30m

very nice two pitch climb a slab grade 12 at the bottom with a stunning 14 metres of grade 24 at the top

FA: rick phillips

25
13 Shittin Bricks Unknown 35m
26

One of the orginal classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it.

FA: G Hill R Chunder, 1978

27
12 Shanadoa Trad 50m

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

FA: G Hill, Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

28
21 * Ketchup Sport 35m, 12

A fine slab angle wall. Sustained climbing at about grade 19 from mid way up. Use the crack at the first blank bit or just grit your teeth and climb thru it for a better experience, not much harder this way. Graded only for the sustained nature. A confident leader will find it 19 all the way up.

As for Mythical Tomatoes at blocky corner leading to the left side of the ledge at quarter height. Up corner to ledge. Up wall using cracks as necessary to rings at the top.

FA: G. Hill, 2010

29
12 * Cab Rank Trad 50m

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

FA: Bill James, 1974

30

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

FA: G Hill & Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

31
14 * Minimals Trad 65m

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

FA: G Hill & R Chunder, 1978