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Description

An impressive steep wall with heaps of quality jugs and excellent endurance climbing for the mindless thug. There are also some nice beginner leads as well. Location: Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from Bill James Testimonial Gully. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.

Approach

Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from 'Bill James Testimonial Gully'. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.

© (dod)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Roger Bourne Identity Sport 16m, 6

Up the dark crimpy slab.

Start: First climb u come to, down the walk down gully.

FA: Dirty "roger" Dude, 2009

2
14 Bingo Wings Sport 15m

Step off block and follow steepening slab.

FA: rick phillips

3
20 * Trad Dads Can't Campus Sport 20m, 8

Start on the lower level 3m right of BW. Heave from pocket onto ledge then take the left line of bolts up the steep wall, onto the slab and on to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

4
20 * Gym Junkies Cant Jam Sport 20m, 10

Same start as Trad Dads Cant Campus, followed with lay back crux to gain the tops and on to easy ground to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

5
23 * Don't Give Up Maman Sport 20m, 9

Harder for short people. Thin start on small edges and pebbles.

Start: Just right of Trad Dads,Gym Junkies start.

FA: V. Hill, 2009

6

FA: V.Hill, 2009

7
24 ** Upchuck Sport 20m

Jug hauling interupted by the burly break move.

Start: Between Trad Dads start and 'Dodecahedron' from the boulder.

FA: Jan 2009

8
22 *** Dodecahedron Sport 20m

The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper!

FA: rick phillips

9
22 ** Dave Fern Sport 25m

A great jug haul. Originally climbed on trad gear and the carrots now full of rings.

Start: At the initials DFA. Shares first three bolts with 'Dodecahedron'.

FA: Hill and Hill

10
22 Diamond Head Sport 25m, 10

A right diagonal used to block those new routers that may sneak another line in. Large jugs are what every guy dreams of and this route has lots.

Start: Same Start as Dave Fern

FA: Hill

11
24 ** Gratefully Dead Sport 25m

Done in the days of the carrot bolt and mixed gear. When you knew how to place a good runner and dyno into a finger lock. Now of course its full of rings, and if you thought the run out was pants wetting then I placed a couple more bolts just for you.

Start: Under the obvious overlap to the right of DH.

FA: Hill

12
25 * Heat Blast Sport 15m

Originally done on the old bolts alone, with a few rope stretching falls. Rings added later by Hill who dismally failed at trying to repeat the route. Name courtesy of Ben Ten.

Start: Under orange wall that leads up into the cave with two rings for lower off.

FA: S. Bullen

13
23 ** Custard Canon Sport 20m

A great climb with the crux down low.

Start: Right of orange stripe that leads to cave.

FA: G Hill, 2000

14
21 Snacky Cakes Sport 20m, 10

Start a few meters right of Custard Cannon. Up the black blunt arete and continue up the slab to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2009

15
10 Yesterdays Hero's Unknown 22m

The classic route from the 70s. Put up by the pioneers of the area. Just because they don't have a line of stainless drilled up em doesn't mean they're not climbs!

Start: Obvious big black slab around the corner right of 'Snacky Cakes'

FA: Bill James and Co.

16
11 Traddington Bear Trad 25m

Ascend the face between LMS and the brushy gully. Start at LMS and move slightly right, then straight up. Stay left of the alcove near the LMS anchors. Top out and belay on slung blocks or other gear.

Apologies to G Hill for the name, I don't know what it should be called.

Start: 1 meter left of Little Miss Sunshine

17
11 Little Miss Sunshine Sport 14m, 8

Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

18
15 * Hill Does Crack Trad 20m

Start at the obviou diagonal crack on the right end of the LMS slab. There is a very faint '18' painted/chipped into the rock at the start. Climb up 7 meters follow the seam as it diagonals left. Top out, belay on large cams under blocks.

FA: G Hill, 2000

19
17 Cool Bananas Sport 14m, 7

Start8 mtrs right of HDC, off the big block which you get to from around the back. Hard moves off the ground for the grade, easing off at top.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

20
22 * Ive Got Wood Sport 15m, 8

The rock in the first 5 meters is so good i had to stick another route up it. More sustained than it looks.

Start as for 'Groovy Tuesday' then traverse left to the next line of bolts to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2009

21
22 ** Groovy Tuesday Sport 18m

Climbed originally on the carrots and trad gear. Now Full of great rings.

Start: Orange wall at bulgy cracked overlap. Look for the old carrot bolts.

  1. 18m (22) technical start leads to a pumpy middle section

  2. 8m (12) From the ledge you can top out if you like...

FA: rick phillips; Hill/Ricky

22

Thru the flakes, up nice headwall.

Start: Under obvious flakes

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

23
18 *** Mouche Pique Sport 20m, 9

Just inside the slot three metres left of Shut The Gate at the corner. Up through the conglomerate band and the small overhang above it to the slab and the next small overhang Follow the line of bolts up the slab to the lower off.

FFA: V.Hill, 2011

FA: V.Hill, 2011

24
24 * Rita's Revenge Sport 20m, 9

Great junk of orange rock to start and an easy slab finish. A direct start to Rita. Possibly a little gay at 24 but at least as hard as STG.

Start: Two meters right of 'Mouche Pique' at the orange undercut under diagonal thin crack.

FA: G Hill, 2011

25
22 * Les Vacances De St Rita Sport 22m, 9

Takes advantage of all the orange rock it can. Others would swear at another contrived piece of shit from Hill but who cares. Boulderers do it all the time.

Start: Same start as shut the gate.

FA: V Hill, 2000

26
24 ** Shut The Gate Sport 12m, 6

easy lower moves, stop suddenly to a crimpy layback pump fest

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

27
19 ** The Horse Has Bolted Sport 25m, 11

You can top out from this climb, belay at rap anchor and walk around ledge (with care). Originally a trad gear lead with a start from the right and a grade of 16. Add the bolts and it gets harder? Starts a few meters left of the obvious corner crack, about 20 right of Groovy Tuesday. Climb past the conglomerate band and flake to the corner, surmount this then climb the slab above to the belay/ lower off.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

28

The direct line up the wall then up the leaning corner. Keep going to the rap chains at the very top.

Start: On the grey wall two meters right of THHB direct start.

FA: V Hill, 2011

29
21 Whistling For Dinner Sport 22m, 9

A nice little wall that deserved a taste of steel. The orange rock in the cave is great and the moves up the right side of the arete just fine. Ignore the two bolts on the left side of the arête they're just a waste of stainless.

Start: Same two bolt wall start as JVVES to the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2011

30

The pick of the bunch. Goes up the sanest chunk of orange rock, in the most direct manner. Once around the roof the slab is easy.

Start: On the easy orange wall two meters right of the other route and just left of the cave.

FA: G Hill, 2011

31
22 Time For Turnips Sport 22m, 9

A really great way to use the rock as a resource to its best. It shares the same start and the same lower offs but all the rest of the route is completely different enough to want to climb it.

Start: Same start as the previous route just left of the cave.

FA: G Hill, 2011