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Description

Big features and big lines on 30m+ walls. The routes here are few and far between but have an extra special feel due to length. Location: Walk down the rungs from the top of the cliff or Keep walking past The Corner Store for 100m along the cliff base.

Approach

Keep walking past 'The Corner' Store for 100m along the cliff base. Or if walking across the top locate the gully that leads to green rungs. At base of gully immediate on left (facing out) is drop bears do exist walk past this for fractured fairy tales etc, turning right takes you to Indian Head proper.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 * Heir Hill Unknown
2

classic Hill climbing!

3
21 ** Drop Bears Do Exist Sport 20m, 9

Tricky start, then jug along blissfully thru overhang and upto anchors.

Start: At the far end of DB wall.

FA: rick phillips, 2009

4
23 ** Bear Droppings Sport 21m, 11

Continuously leaning climbing up the entire length of the wall. Four meters of overhang in 20 meters adds the interest.

Start: Off block two meters to the right of Drop Bears.

FA: G Hill, 2011

5
Project Glen Jones Unknown 28m, 13

The line of fixed hangers up the slab and straight up the middle of the wall.

Start: 4m left of Heebie Jeebie

6
21 ** Heebie Jeebies Sport 30m, 12

start up right end of drop bear wall, up ramp then up super steep arete, swing left under rotten cave, watch out for a little loose rock, tackle crux (big throw) do the tricky mantle etc.. there it is! how hard can it be?

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

7
23 ** The Empire Strikes Yak Sport 30m, 12

Shared start with HJ, up ramp past 4RBs to stance. Step right over the void and up corner on perfect white rock until you are forced back on to the face for the crimpy crux, followed by easier ground to anchors at top of cliff.

FA: Bundy

8
23 * Please The Keys Sport 22m, 14

If you like a climb that doesn't give up until near the end then this is for you. From the ledge the climbing gets progressively harder until in the middle of the wall you meet the crux. It still has some nuts to dish out until the mega hole in the top. Climbs the centre of the wall visible behind the guy pictured on Drop Bears. Quite a bit easier if you can stand on your feet, probably another grade if your footwork is crap like mine.

Start: Same start as the YAK thing on the slab.

FA: G Hill, 2011

9
23 * Lauren (the) Chili Goddess Sport 22m, 13

A good line of bolts kept reasonable by the right hand flake system. Once you get to the fourth bolt you've got it by the balls. If it starts to get desperate higher up just keep grabbing that right leading flake.

Start: Two meters to the left of the arete. And to the right of the pox hole.

FA: G Hill, 2010

10
23 *** Roo Rot Sport 22m, 14

Look up what do you see? Look down, you're still on the ground. What's holding you there? Look up you see bolts leading up the best arete you have ever seen (at least at Nowra), its easy there are holds everywhere. Look down your feet are still holding you back.

Start: Just left of the arete of 'Fractured' Fairytales

FA: G Hill, 2010

11
23 *** Fractured Fairytales Sport 30m, 11

belay up on the block just right of first bolt, take care on the flake at third height but you don't need to pull on it, then power to the top...well that's my idea!!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

12
23 ** Zut Il Pleut Sport 24m, 15

A really good piece of rock after it leaves 'Fractured' Fairytale s. Shares the same start to a few moves past the undercling flake, then it just gets better. The crux is somewhere up the top.

Start: Same start as 'Fractured' Fairytales

FA: V Hill, 2010

13

Another good wall slightly shorter so you wont get so pumped or will you?

Fourth bolt a little dumbly placed but it protects the hard stuff above. The climb is essentially five sections of grade 20 with a little slappy bit of 22 makes for a reasonably sustained route. Worth one more grade than Stairway.

Start: Third line of bolts to the left of the arch.

FA: G Hill, 2009

14
22 * Artline 700 Sport 17m, 10

A continuous slightly overhanging wall. Similar climbing to Stairway To Heaven Well protected with shit loads of bolts.

Start: 2 m left of Stairway To Heaven

FA: G Hill, 2010

15
16
23 *** Stairway to Heaven Sport 25m, 9

Stick clip or take care to first bolt, climb huge weathered flake until forced onto the face, enjoy the pump!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

17
26 *** Sahara Sport 25m

Looked at by a number of people but deemed to hard, Alex climbed it using 4 cams but gave me permission to bolt it, climb it as a 23MO pulling on the draw at the crux or send it free!

FA: Alex Keiling

18
22 ** Seven Day Adventurist Sport 25m, 7

bridge wall and large detached flake, swing onto wall and good move getting your high off under cling, crux at three quarter height of sharp crimps

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

19
22 * Highway Heist Sport 18m

twenty mtrs south of sahara etc, locate belay bolt and climb up faint crack and pockets trending slightly right, best to clip bolt in roof with sling to avoid rope drag.. crux is letting go of the wall to grab the roof, is kinda desperate and more so if your short!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

20
16 * Redneck Robbers Sport 20m, 7

Belay off same bolt, trend right and up to blind corner, nice moves as you head up and get back onto the main headwall, jugs to the anchors

Start: same as HH

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

21
20 * Kombi Crime Scene Sport 23m, 7

Traverse lower than previous climb and layback off the corner crack for a move or two (sorry trad dads your to late maybe you can sling one of the bolts) then blast thru roof and up to anchors

Start: same belay bolt (same bat channel)

The next two climbs start from same bolt and finish at same anchors, maybe best to top belay and rap back down left of anchors (facing cliff)

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

22
14 * Gone, But Not Forgotten! Sport 25m, 9

Traverse all the way to the slab, climb your way over the void out on the arete, shake and quiver (hopefully like the pricks that stole my stuff are) with the exposure and make your way to the anchors.

maybe best to top belay and rap down

Start: same

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

23
22 *** funk soul rubber Unknown 30m

FA: rick phillips

24
15 damn you custardo! Unknown 25m

FA: rick phillips

25

traverse across and get yourself established on a technical arete a few big moves and your at the anchors should be around grade 19-21

Start: The anchors are in all you have to do is add 4-5 bolts

26
17 Hill 17 Sport

turn right down the runged highway opposite DBDE