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Description

A large impressive cliff up to 30m high with several New Nowra classics. There are also some less than inspiring black slabs and bolted crack routes.

© (ropedonkey)

Approach

Squeeze through gap at right end of Access Canyon and walk 100m along cliff base to bolted black wall.

© (ropedonkey)

Descent notes

All routes have bolted lower-offs

© (ropedonkey)

Ethic inherited from Panther

Bolted cracks

History

View historical timeline

Boom time was 2009-2010

© (ropedonkey)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The first few routes are on a grungy black wall with short orange streaks.

Starts on black and orange wall just left of cave with large fern growing in corner.This climb starts on the big flake and takes the left hand line of bolts. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Set by Rick Phillips, 2010

Same as Whiskey a go go and follow the line of bolts right at third bolt and pull thru the orange bulge, then pick your way up the thin head wall to finish at SOHO's anchors. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Set by Rick Phillips, 2010

Start 3 mtrs right of large fern, straight up black wall. Hardish start leads to easy mid section with a punchy finish. Surely an open project after 6 years?

FA: 2000

Set by Rick Phillips, 2010

Technical slab climbing. Start 10m left of Boogie Nights. Route has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Start just left of the shrubbery on the cliff. Thin, technical and sustained slab climbing. Follow the little corner then up the steepening slab.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

Feeling a bit deflated? This is the one for you. The black slab a few meters left of the corner. Start at the base of the corner. Follow the bolts, with some engaging climbing all the way to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Just to the right of a major corner is this nice big wall with a splitter crack on the left side.

The left leaning splitter crack in the wall 4m right of major corner. Some classic crack climbing and with bolted face climbing at the top. Take small to medium cams and medium to large nuts.

FA: John Lattanzio & Jason Lammers, 2009

Finally a good route. Classic thin face climbing starting just right of the Old Dogs crack.

FA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2009

A Hill inspired name for a Hill inspired linkup. Start of I Cairn Do It then left into excellent finish of Rockaholic.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

No cairn needed! The 1st move is the best move. Hardish bulgy start, then move out right towards the arete and up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

Just around the right of I Cairn Do It is a small cave and a couple of bolted crack routes.

Best rock at the crag. Lovely marbled pockets up subtle prow. Starts a few metres right of I Cairn Do It on right side of arete at undercut cave. The start move goes via a sneaky move from the block on the right. Bonus crux at the top through the rooflet.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Strenuous and technical climbing up the line left of the obvious square cut roof with a couple of finger locks chucked in to boot. Climb the left wall under the roof, exiting left and up crack to break, step right and up black wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

OMG, a bolted crack! Carefully up just right of cave and trend left up to the flake crack.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

Starts 20 mtrs right of square cut roof at off width crack. Rick reckons looking back this is probably a trad climb, but the crack would have taken up so much gear so 1. you would have needed a bigger rack and 2. you would have nowhere to put your hands, now you can clips the bolts and have no hassles!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

Just right of a black slabby bit is this impressive vertical wall with subtle left facing flake in the middle and offwidth corner on far left edge.

Left edge of beautiful vertical wall starting at short wide corner. Bridge the chimney, turn the rooflet on the left, up short corner and finish up wall to anchors

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

Panther classic. Excellent climbing on the flake with a pumpy finish. Start as for Tell Your Story Walking and at third bolt break right across face to gain left facing flake. Up this to top!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

Starts 5m right of 'Flake' Orgasm at the arete. Batman up to 2nd bolt (or climb tree). Climb the thin arete, taking care with the 3rd clip, a long sling would be useful. Gain the upper face nice climbing to anchors.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2009

Great climbing once you get past the start shenanigans. Option 1 (the true free version!) involves climbing the tree for 5m and awkwardly traversing right. Option 2 (The better way) is just to stick clip the first bolt and hoist your way up batman style to the first holds. Stem up the hanging corner, then left under roof and finish up right line of bolts above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

The bouldery steep wall that gains the corner of 'Myopia' then straight out of the roof and up the arete.

Set by Neil Monteith

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Just to the right of Eyes Wide Shut is this very impressive orange streaked wall that could be the highest bit of good rock at New Nowra. All routes share the same start, an awkward short corner.

The first slabby half of 'Panthera' finishing below the chossy cave. Quality marbled rock all the way but without traffic it gets sand from above on the holds.

The Mosquito Slap of New Nowra - an epic wall with some sections of choss, but very well bolted. First 3 bolts of Tiger Tales then traverse left and up marbled wall on excellent rock to first set of anchors. Continue up steep and exposed right side of chossy cave to final pumpy juggy finish as for Tiger Tales. Watch rope length on lower-off!

A long and pumpy euro enduro route straight up the guts of the orange wall. THE crag classic! The start is a weird awkward corner. Watch rope length on the lower-off.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

One of the longest routes at 'Nowra' - a real pumper. First three bolts of 'Tiger Tales' then right onto small ledge. Now crimp up slab then trend rightwards up epic steep wall on a bizillion horizontals. 60m rope will NOT reach the ground. Might be easier if you're taller.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

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