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Description

A small overhung wall of grey smooth rock in a shady gully. Should contain 4 or 5 routes eventually. There are some spectacular orchids growing on the top of the wall - sadly there were probably a lot more like this closer to the carpark before thieves took them.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Tianjara Falls

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left (south) of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities! Do not build new rock cairns - apparently there is an $11,000 fine if you do.

Approach

The wall is located in the first possible walk down descent gully after Indian Head, about 100m past 'Black Snake Buttress'. It's 50m past a small creek and cascading waterfall. Walk down the easy angled gully for 20m then turn left to see the wall.

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

First line on the wall as you enter the alley. Nice piece of rock to start then head up the furthest left line of bolts.

FA: G Hill, 2013

Shares the same tricky start as the previous route. Once over the start the dyno in the middle may shake you off.

FA: G Hill, 2013

A little steep and a little pumpy. Stick clip first bolt, over bulge and up flake then punchy crux leaving the horizontal break. Traverse right from bolt 5 then back left and up to anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Start at Big News Day, heading right at the first break to follow the line of stainless to the anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2013

Next right of Poofs on Hoofs. A bit of slapping required at the bulge and then easy to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2013

Start at the next line of bolts right of DTB. If you can't sought out the start because of the maze of bolts then figure it out by the grade. Its likely to be harder than 23.

Set by Graeme Hill

Next line of bolts right of the previous project. Again take your pick of the bolts you want to use as the start.

Set by Graeme Hill

The easiest route in the alley. Start at the left facing corner which sought of shares the same start as the next route. Up the start trending left onto the line of bolts with a crux near the top.

FA: V Hill, 2013

Start at PDM and head right to follow the bolts to a knob pulling crux near the top.

FA: V Hill, 2013

Found near the bottom of the alley at yellow wall capped by small roofy type overlap. Don't let the very thin and fragile start put you off. If you snap off any of the start holds just chip a couple of new ones. Its not the start you are climbing this route for, its the next 8 or so moves which are the stella crux. Once thru to the ledge then its easy to the lower offs.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2013

Start about 1.5 meters right of MBR. You will have to be keen to climb this one as the intermittent seepage means the moss keeps growing back on the crux. As nobody likes a to walk anywhere these days it hasn't had a lot of ascents.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2013

Start at the little crack feature right of RJ. At the first bolt head left thru bulge and up to ledge.

FA: V Hill, 2013

Second best route on the crag only surpassed by Big News Day. Start at the same crack feature as the previous French mouthful but head straight up. A few small holds and your up.

FA: V Hill, 2013

The last climb on the wall. Located on the left arete of the chimney at the bottom of the alley. So much for an area that may only host 4 or 5 routes other than big news day.... HA HA HA. PS the wall on your left is a sandy pile of cack.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2013

Activity

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