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Immediately right of the Faux Buoux area is a massive cave with a low ceiling. Walk under this on a sandy shelf to the far right end where some actual climbable rock appears under the roof.


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Grade Route
23 * Kicking Heads Sport 20m, 9

Fun slab, roof and corner with nails hard undercut start. Deduct 5 grades if you pull on the first bolt. Start by teetering up giant cairn to grasp massive jug on lip of cave. Curse and thrash at lip then up pleasant polished slab to massive roof. Skirt left and around it past halfway anchor bolts (use these to clean the route). Up black jam crack corner to high anchors, Stick clipping the second bolt is recommend unless you want to give your belayer a kick in the head.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25 ** Forgot Me Knot Sport 14m, 5

Awesome powerful climbing. Undercut start to steep hanging pocketed arete to arrive under roof. Swing right with difficulty to jug and rap chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

26 *** Forgot Me Knot Extension Sport 20m, 9

Thin technical climbing adding three more bolts to the original past the rap chain on the lip of the roof. Rad.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012