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Description

Bordering the right side of Wasp in the Willows is this long vertical wall with a confusing array of bolts. All but one of the routes share the same start - up the thin crack. This crack tends to seep down low, and sometimes requires a batman start.

Approach

This section of cliff is directly above the fixed aluminum ladder, and just right of Wasp in the Willows sector.

Descent notes

Watch your rope length when lowering off - these climbs are a touch higher than 25m.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

History

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As usual Greg Wilson bolted the original route on this sector, Sandpaper Sally, and Bundy and Rick covered the remaining rock in rings.

Routes

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Grade Route

Whilst not the greatest rock quality the height, sea views and friendly jugs make for one of the best easy routes here. Layback up the right facing corner then up the sustained face above. This is a good end of day exit route if you top out.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

Up 'Sandpaper Sally' for 3 bolts then, lean out left on big sidepull and up the long wall. Sustained !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

Starts in the small seam and follows till it blanks out, take a rest in the cave then up the awesome long headwall.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

As per SS, then step right over cave and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Up SS and at first bolt take the right hand line up the middle of wall.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

Activity

Check out what is happening in Sandpaper Wall.