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Description

The area just north of the green rungs. Awesome orange rock. A good winter destination.

Approach

Scramble down the access gully as for South Western area, but when you get to the green rungs, head right (looking out). The first route is about 30m from the rungs.

© (bundybear)

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts just right of the crack on the steep orange wall then traverses around the arete, not as nice as "Spinner" and a touch harder.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Same start as Two Up then just blast up thru the orange squeeze out onto the arete where it meets the roof. Finishes at Two Up anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

30 mtrs from the rungs at the first orange wall, has two pockets to start the climb then on the wall until you push out onto the arete

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

Starts in middle of black wall just around from Sunset Boulevard, then goes out to the right hand arete

FA: John Lattanzio & Rick Phillips, 2011

Climbs the right side of the the Establishment wall. Nice big jugs the whole way.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

Your arms will feel like they got thumped by five bouncers in a basement. Start up ramp as for 'The Establishment', then take left line of rings up middle of immaculate orange face, joining back into 'The Establishment' at the fifth bolt with a wild lunge right to the arête.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Up the centre of the wall L of Ivy Bouncers joining this just before the crux.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

The steep, overhanging corner crack sporting stainless steel. Stem, jam and layback - just like a trad route.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Just after steep white pocketed wall on undercut orange arete. Bouldery start best to extend 4th draw

FA: Willz, 2000

The next several routes are in a totally rain protected cave reminiscent of the Pocketed Cave at TP.

Start: In undercut steep blank roof with super bouldery moves to get the obvious pocket. Power through roof with balance to chains.

FA: Greg Reavski, 2016

Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep and powerful start leads to bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete. Power endurance test piece.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

The rightward trending flake feature. Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'. After tackling the initial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then follow the line of bolts left and up.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Just a slap right of Lap Dance, punchy start leads to a bouldery rightward traverse before heading up to the anchors for glory.

Set by Will

FA: Andrew Richards, 2016

Classic of the genre! The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Same start as Lap Dance then head left at second draw. Bring some power and a good belayer for this one.

FA: Graham "Liberator" Fairburn, 2010

The incredibly short and incredibly intense flake line 2m right from the left edge of the cave. Probably the hardest 22 on the planet. Take care clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Very left hand end of steep pocketed wall. The last few moves are fun if you put the blinkers on and don't stem off the choss to the left. Not a good warm up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

The next routes are outside the rain protection of the mega cave.

Big orange arete with tough move at the end.

Starts in the middle of an orange wall, with funky looking features near the top. The track stops five mtrs on. Climb on the right side till second bolt then head back across onto the left wall before swapping back again, makes for a fun climb.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

At the curving flake Fun climb well protected for first lead at the grade, some techo moves for the grade....Just think outside the square..

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

The last route in the area, easily up the striking black arête to around half way where balance and movement is required to get your way to the DBB up high.

FA: Andrew Richards, 2016

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