Sector 2 - Faux Buoux All sport climbing

15 routes in area

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Description

A wall that features very unique (for sandstone) water polished pockets in immaculate rock. All routes here are fantastic quality, and many are rope stretching in length (bring a 60m rope). The sun hits the wall from around 10am so summer is out. Gale force winds howl in winter so bring something warm for belaying. GPS (-35.0403, 150.4129)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 *** Blinded by the White Sport 25m, 12

Stay left. Maximizes the quality rock on this wall with a big girdle across the quality pocketed white rock. Follows the left line of bolts under the roof for a couple of metres, then over powerful rooflet and keep traversing left to final magic pockets to break and lower-off. Back clean or get someone to 2nd it.

FA: Neil monteith

2

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

3
25 *** Faux Buoux Sport 30m, 14

The best route here - a New 'Nowra' classic. Pockets of every variety from start to finish. Goes all the way to the top of the cliff. This is the middle line, which has a slight leftwards traverse once over the first rooflet.

FA: Neil Monteith

4
24 *** When the Wind Blows Sport 30m, 12

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

FA: Neil Monteith

5
24 *** Swiss Cheese Sport 20m, 9

Easiest way up the mega pocketed wall - but still no cakewalk. Starts as for When the Wind Blows for two bolts then right past three bolts to join into Pocket Rocket for one bolt then finish out left through orange scoops and reachy finish bulge. Magnificent white undercling pockets as usual.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

6
25 *** Pocket Rocket Sport 20m, 9

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

FA: Neil Monteith

7
OPEN PROJECT Sport 20m

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

8
24 ** Steal Some Steel Sport 15m, 6

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

FA: Neil Monteith

9
16 Mini Water Holes Sport 12m

Good warm-up climbing the first half of Water Holes and lowering off big U bolt just over the rooflet.

10
23 *** Water Holes Sport 23m, 9

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

FA: Neil Monteith

11
22 * Delicious Sport 15m, 6

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

FA: Neil Monteith

12
19 * Lost for Profit Sport 18m, 8

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

FA: Neil Monteith

13
20 * Sun Dew Sport 20m, 9

Small dark corner 2m right of Lost for Profit. At the big roof crack undercling desperately left to join into LfP for top half. Crack seeps after rain.

FA: Neil Monteith

14
22 * SunnySide Up Sport 13m, 5

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

15
23 * Heal and Toe Sport 10m, 5

Short and very steep rightwards leading line just right of SunnySide Up and finishing in little cave. Power. Stickclip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012