New Nowra - Braidwood Road Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

John Lattanzio Neil Monteith Gavin Lyon rick phillips Matt Tranter Rod Young Jakob Kapelj Simon Vaughan graeme hill David O'Donnell

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1. New Nowra - Braidwood Road 643 in Crag
- 1.1. Afterburner Wall 20 in Area
- 1.2. The Lair 44 in Area
  - 1.2.1. Black Wall 1 in Area
  - 1.2.2. Sundeck 6 in Area
  - 1.2.3. Berlin Wall 12 in Area
  - 1.2.4. Members Area 13 in Area
  - 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone 7 in Area
  - 1.2.6. Titanic 5 in Area
- 1.3. Panther 31 in Area
  - 1.3.1. Access Canyon 7 in Area
  - 1.3.2. Tell your story area 20 in Area
  - 1.3.3. Tiger wall 4 in Area
- 1.4. Hylands Lookout 123 in Area
  - 1.4.1. North-Western side 8 in Area
    - 1.4.1.1. Toxic Beauty area 2 in Area
    - 1.4.1.2. The Sunny Ledge 5 in Area
  - 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper 20 in Area
  - 1.4.3. South-Western side 50 in Area
    - 1.4.3.1. Liquidity Wall 10 in Area
    - 1.4.3.2. Dark Energy Slab 6 in Area
    - 1.4.3.3. Zombie Wall 7 in Area
    - 1.4.3.4. Mystery Wall 6 in Area
    - 1.4.3.5. Pillar Environs 3 in Area
    - 1.4.3.6. Member's Only 9 in Area
    - 1.4.3.7. Busted Arse Wall 5 in Area
  - 1.4.4. No Man's Land 6 in Area
  - 1.4.5. Utopia 39 in Area
    - 1.4.5.1. Crash and Burn Area 5 in Area
    - 1.4.5.2. Middle Earth Wall 8 in Area
    - 1.4.5.3. Halfway House 2 in Area
    - 1.4.5.4. Bushwhacked Area 5 in Area
    - 1.4.5.5. Punch & Judy Area 14 in Area
    - 1.4.5.6. The Cinema Strip 1 in Area
    - 1.4.5.7. Wave Walls 4 in Area
- 1.5. Lassiter's 89 in Area
  - 1.5.1. Fucktardia 10 in Unknown
  - 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap 19 in Sector
  - 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls 9 in Sector
  - 1.5.4. Metalloid Wall 6 in Sector
  - 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress 19 in Sector
  - 1.5.6. Quality Junk area 2 in Sector
  - 1.5.7. Diamond Wall 6 in Sector
  - 1.5.8. Nugget Wall 6 in Area
  - 1.5.9. The Sluice Box 12 in Sector
- 1.6. The Gold Mine 59 in Area
  - 1.6.1. 22000lbs area 3 in Area
  - 1.6.2. Rick Roller's Rap in Area 5 in Area
  - 1.6.3. Cafe Cruiser Wall 10 in Area
  - 1.6.4. Monty's Cave 4 in Area
  - 1.6.5. Fernville 12 in Area
  - 1.6.6. Wasp in the Willows 14 in Area
  - 1.6.7. Sandpaper Wall 5 in Area
  - 1.6.8. Decent Gully Walls 6 in Area
    - 1.6.8.1. Wringer Wall 2 in Feature
- 1.7. Capricornia 11 in Area
  - 1.7.1. Southern Sector 11 in Sector
  - 1.7.2. Northern Sector 0 in Sector
- 1.8. Moonshine 49 in Area
  - 1.8.1. Lunar Wall 15 in Area
  - 1.8.2. Dark Side 34 in Area
- 1.9. Sunshine Sunny Side 21 in Area
  - 1.9.1. Sector 1 - Descent Gully Area 1 in Sector
  - 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux 15 in Area
  - 1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave 3 in Sector
  - 1.9.4. Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall 2 in Area
- 1.10. Tianjara Falls 196 in Area
  - 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully 31 in Area
  - 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods 31 in Area
  - 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall 13 in Area
  - 1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall 6 in Area
  - 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall 10 in Area
  - 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe 7 in Area
  - 1.10.7. Bundy's Bar and Grill 2 in Area
  - 1.10.8. The Corner Store 10 in Area
  - 1.10.9. Drop bear wall 26 in Area
  - 1.10.10. Indian Head (north) 53 in Area
    - 1.10.10.1. Hairy Snotter Wall 8 in Sector
    - 1.10.10.2. Tonage Zone Sector 17 in Sector
    - 1.10.10.3. Impressionist Wall 7 in Sector
    - 1.10.10.4. Funk Soul Sector 9 in Sector
  - 1.10.11. Black Snake Buttress 6 in Area
  - 1.10.12. Orchid Alley 0 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. New Nowra - Braidwood Road 643 routes in Crag

2 9 5 6 10

2 The Lair, 5 Lassiter's, 6 The Gold Mine, 9 Sunshine Sunny Side, 10 Tianjara Falls

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 150.402474, -35.071813
Description:: The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality is 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone, very similar to Thompsons Point.

1.1. Afterburner Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:© (nmonteith): A single steep orange wall once visited by mysterious bolters who gridded the top with U anchors as well as sparsley placed them down some of the climbs. Some of the anchors were lacking glue but most of them are fine. The bolts over the top should be ignored as there are now double rings on the tops of most climbs.

Useful Info: 'Access' the cliff by walking to the edge and walking right facing out for about thirty meters. Look for a slot chimney with green rungs in it.
Approach:© (nmonteith): Drive past the turn off to Thompson's Point and the University and continue past the reservoir and down the hill. As you come out of the little valley at the bottom of the hill there is a house on the right and the turn off almost immediately opposite to the left up YALWAL road. Follow this up until the road goes under the power lines. Further along an open area appears on your right about the size of a football field and sometimes populated by dead cars. Turn into this and drive to the back side and just right of centre. There will be a small dirt track heading off from this clearing for 70 to 90 meters at the end of this park. To go another 20 meters further you would drive straight over the cliff. Can be seen on aerial maps as a large orange patch off a straight section of dirt road.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Puke Skywalker Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you. Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall. FA: G Hill, 2007	23	Sport 15m	graeme hill first climb down the chimney, jug fest
2	Rap in to start looks hard	26	Unknown 20m
3	Long orange streak looks even harder	27	Unknown 25m
4	Next to the right at little slab	25	Unknown 22m
5	Trilobutt Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff. Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff. FA: G Hill,	23	Sport 18m	graeme hill 5 years ago Far out groovy does writing a comment get your post up?
6	Bum-eyed Bumosaurus This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts. Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge. FA: G Hill, 2008	22	Sport 18m	graeme hill 5 years ago I did it for Bundy
7	Bionic Barf Bunnies Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp. Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line. FA: G Hill, 2007	22	Sport 22m	graeme hill 5 years ago Probably over estimated the grade but i was pumped
8	The Sperminator Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock. Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one. FA: G Hill,	22	Sport 18m	graeme hill juggy past the crux
9	Trap Buddies Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground. Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack. FA: G Hill,	21	Sport 18m	graeme hill Start rhs of clff
10	The Back Slapping Crack Wax This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!? Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge. FA: G Hill,	21	Sport 18m	graeme hill same start as trap buddies quite a good climb
11	Muscle Thruster This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish. Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes. FA: G Hill,	21	Sport 15m
12	Ball Burner Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience. Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'. FA: G Hill,	20	Sport 18m	graeme hill Not my climb except for the top anchors
13	Rats Project Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff. Start: At the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'.	23	Sport 23m
14	Romancing The Bone Pumper route with nails hard start and a crux way up the top. There is an easier alternative and this is to pike at the two closely spaced bolts just before the last crux its hard 23 to this point. You will see the bolts they are pretty obvious lower off anchors disguised as runners. Start: Up on the ledge about three meters right of Alien's Route Three. In vague corner. FA: G Hill, 2005	24	Sport 23m
15	Veg Early bridging avoids the bouldery start. the climb gets a little sandy but is generally cool and ok. Start: This is the second route down the access slot. It keeps the route sequencing correct to stick this right of 'Rats Project'. FA: G Hill, 2005	16	Sport 15m
16	Aliens Route One If you did this climb enter the details. It goes up some of the best looking rock in 'Nowra'. 'Steep' and bulgy though its a pity about the start not commencing from the ground. Start: The first bolts are high up the wall so it looks like a rap in start. FA: The AVC, 2000		Sport 20m
17	Plasto Bambola Steep on generally sound rock and big jugs with a tricky head wall to finish. Start: At crack to the right as you come out from the descent gully. FA: G Hill, 2005	23	Sport 20m , 8
18	Lisa's Monkey Cool in summer though a little sandy. Will clean up with a thousand ascents. Just look at 'Gun Barrel Highway' now! Start: The first route you pass as you walk down the access slot. FA: G Hill, 2005	16	Sport 12m
19	Alien's Route Two Gotta be the best looking bit of stone around. Why doesn't anybody want to go and climb it give it a grade and some closure in its life? Start: Right of Alien's Route One from the ground. FA: The AVC, 2000		Sport 22m
20	Alien's Route Three When the Alien's bolted this baby they wanted you to find some balls, squeeze them together and go for it. Maybe these Aliens were British trad dudes? Start: Right of ART under obvious large hole in rock and slabby pre wall. FA: The AVC, 2000		Sport 22m

1.2. The Lair 44 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 150.456728, -34.974179
Description:© (gavin lyon): The Lair is a sandstone cliffline up to 20m in height. It faces west so is good on a winters afternoon or early on a summer morning. The sun hits some of the faces from 10am in winter and you can find summer shade until 1pm. Protected from wind also. It has a variety of generally well protected easy to mid grade climbs. Established as a sport climbing crag with glue-in stainless steel ringbolts and double ringbolt lower-offs.

Useful Info: -34.9564211,150.4829561

The climbs are described from left to right as you are facing the cliff. 'Access' track is very uneven with a lot of forest debris.

Bring insect repellant, as there can be some mozzies around.

It is an excellent area for beginners and kids as it is generally child-friendly and has many bolted easy to moderate routes.
Approach:© (gavin lyon): If you are approaching from Sydney follow the Princes 'Highway' to 'Nowra'. After crossing the Shoalhaven River continue past 'Nowra' Fair shopping centre on the left. Turn right at the Kalandar Street lights. Follow the signs to HMAS 'Albatross'. When you see the airbase. Turn right onto Braidwood Road and follow this past 'Nowra' Motorcycle Club. Just after the motorcycle club take the next turn right onto a gravel road (Yerriyong Vale Road - no sign, but marked on Google Maps). Set your odometer. You will pass a fire trail on the right before the road drops down to a creek line and past a couple of properties(right) . At 3.3km you will notice an obvious 4WD track on the right (used to have sign 'Wattle Fire Trail' at its entrance, missing 2013) and carparking on the left. The road ends at a locked gate a few hundred metres past the carpark.

If approaching from the south follow the signs to HMAS 'Albatross', turn left onto Braidwood Road and continue from there.

On Yerriyong Vale Road there are 3 car spaces located opposite the 4WD track (10m up the road on the left from the 'Wattle Fire Trail' wooden sign). 10m south from the larger carpark there is a thin tree stump marked track (also ribbon on tree 2013) leading up to the cliff line (5 mins walk). Heading up the hill on this track brings you up to a gully between 'Sundeck' and 'Berlin Wall'.

Parking at the next carpark along and heading straight up through the bush will lead you to the 'Titanic' area.

Do not leave any valuables in your cars and keep the road clear as it is access to farms.

1.2.1. Black Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon): Distinct black wall.
Approach:© (gavin lyon): North end of crag.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Tim's Torment The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004	11	Sport 17m		David McQueen 7 years ago Can't remember the climb, just the painful shoes. Mark Ashmore 7 years ago Yuk. Bad rock towards the top.

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Tim's Torment

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

Sport 17m

David McQueen 7 years ago

Can't remember the climb, just the painful shoes.

Mark Ashmore 7 years ago

Yuk. Bad rock towards the top.

1.2.2. Sundeck 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Approach:© (gavin lyon): Just north of access track

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Fiest-Fest Steep start on good rock. Left around outside of cave and up. CAUTION: Take care clipping second bolt. 4RB's to DBB at present. (Not as shown). FA: Mark Rewi,	22 R	Sport 12m
2	The End Is Near Take care on thin edges. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. 6 RB's to DBB. FA: 21 Nov 2004,	19	Sport 17m		Peter Martin 5 years ago Still a few holds that feel lile they may break off but nice climbing. Jason Lammers 5 years ago End of Day - Bear Trap
3	Delta Cream Start on the block 2m R of TEIN. Nice delicate moves up slab. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. Watch thin edges. 6 RB's to DBB. FA: David Casey, 2004	17	Sport 17m		Jason Lammers 5 years ago Looks junk, but climbs well. kyle jones 5 years ago Be carful with holds often breakin
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
4	Fortunes Crown Start 1m R of tree. Take care on thin edges. Past overlap then complete a short airy traverse to pull up between blocks. Named after the 'Nowra' poker machine that funded it. 6 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	15	Sport 16m		Doug Moore 6 years ago Lots of crappy little edges that will break off Ben Stone 7 years ago nice and sustained at the grade
5	Barbeque Breakfast Work your way up the slab staying right of the corner. Increasing difficulty. 4 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	17	Sport 12m		Jason Lammers 5 years ago with Loz Stuart McElroy 6 years ago with Dude
6	The Bendix Promise Up the right hand side of the slab. Good moves in second half. 4 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	16	Sport 12m		Jason Lammers 5 years ago with Loz Stuart McElroy 6 years ago With Dude

1.2.3. Berlin Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon): Generally slabby face climbing.
Approach:© (gavin lyon): Just south of the access track.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Push over Middle of slab in descent gully. 3RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	12	Sport 10m		Stuart McElroy 6 years ago with Dude Mark Ashmore 7 years ago Yuk. Why bother.
2	I'm Lichen It Right hand end of slab in descent gully. FA: Adam Dubois,	14	Sport 10m		Stuart McElroy 6 years ago With Dude Gavin Lyon 7 years ago Will be better after cleaning
Hide Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
3	Chuffed Pleasant slab moves. 5 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004	12	Sport 13m		Alex Rogers 3 weeks ago Fun slabbing with the kids. matt schnabl 3 years ago easy slab
4	Street Sweeper The flake then straight up the slab to the edge of the cave. Good slab sections.6 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004	15	Sport 15m		Alex Rogers 3 weeks ago Nice slab moves higher up, good fun. matt schnabl 3 years ago warm up
5	6" Release Right hand finish FA: G Hill,	21	Unknown
6	6" Release Left hand finish FA: G Hill,	21	Unknown		Dave McGregor 5 years ago had to work very hard to get out of the cave then there was this slab...somehow stuck to get last... . 5 years ago ridiculously hard upper slab.
7	Triple J Direct start to BTD. Start up the flake and bulge to join BTD at mid height. 7 RB's to DBB. FA: Mark Rewi,	21	Sport 18m		Jason Lammers 5 years ago good sequence down low will watkins 5 years ago nice one
8	Beat The Drum The original and the best of the three. Up the corner then L onto the slab. Use the edge of the cave then up over a short section of hollow sounding orange rock (the drum). 7 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004	18	Sport 18m		matt schnabl 3 years ago soft for the grade . 5 years ago Some good climbing, but no where near *
9	Ninety Eight Point Nine Mid height variation to BTD. Start up BTD. Move R on slab then rejoin BTD to finish. 7 RB's to DBB. FA: David Casey,	19	Sport 18m		Jason Lammers 5 years ago Worthless variation. Ben Stone 7 years ago much nicer varient then original line i think anyway!
10	Bingo Wings 5 RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill,	18	Sport 15m		matt schnabl 3 years ago thin hard start, rest of climb great Stephen Hawkshaw 5 years ago nice incuts
11	6' Release LHV 6 RB's to DBB. FA: Graeme Hill, 2000	21	Sport 17m
12	6' Release RHV 6 RB's to DBB. FA: Graeme Hill, 2000	21	Sport

1.2.4. Members Area 13 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon): Generally good steep rock. Best quality routes at crag.
Approach:© (gavin lyon): South of 'Berlin Wall'.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Project		Sport 14m
2	The Melbourne Connection 1m left of 'Origami'. Pockets to start then thin moves through to finishing jugs. 6 RB's to DBB. FA: Mark Rewi,	24	Sport 15m	Lauren Chandler 5 years ago The only climb here we didn't brake a hold off! will watkins 5 years ago could not contain the donkey on this one. hard slab moves.
3	Daily Grind Up widening crack. Gritty.	19	Trad 15m
4	Origami Steep arete at L end of grandstand. Problem solver. Reachy crux. FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004	22	Sport 15m	Alex Rogers 3 weeks ago Excellent steep hauling up arete, then very long reach to not much at all. Beyond me, fell off 4 ... Lauren Chandler 5 years ago Set the tone for the day - flithy holds and choss
5	Cheeky Possum Start as for 'Origami' then traverse right and up through sustained moves. Great excursion on good rock. 7 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	21	Sport 15m	Stuart McElroy 6 years ago Stiff for 21 - but I guess it is Nowra! With Dude Gavin Lyon 7 years ago Great excursion
6	Graba Granny Steep start on big pockets. Good moves on good rock. 5RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill,	21	Sport	John Lattanzio 11 months ago Quite hard down low, sustained up high, harder than Bakery Treat, more like 22. Stephen Hawkshaw 5 years ago top moves!
7	Bakery Treat Sustained and excellent. Varied climbing on good rock. 6 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	23	Sport 16m	Doug Moore 2 years ago Bottom moves harder as crucial holds have broken off. Clean ascent other than pulling on 2nd dra... Stephen Hawkshaw 5 years ago 22 max
8	Shoot it and Root it 6RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill,	23	Sport 16m	graeme hill a bit gritty
9	Back Door Bangin 5RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill,	23	Sport 16m	graeme hill Not the usual climbing with two finger locks & two handjams. Go right at second last bolt.
10	The Nose Of The Umpire 6RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill,	22	Sport	graeme hill You can do a "rose" move if you want. The finish is up the tree. I will sought out a better fini...
11	Kill It and Grill It Batman start. 5 RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill ,	22	Sport	Stephen Hawkshaw 5 years ago 23 min! . 5 years ago Flowy. Good ya.
12	Slice it & Dice It Start as TNOTU then diagonally right. 6RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill,	23	Sport 22m	graeme hill Some of the best rock at Nowra
13	Mr Pebble Up the arete. 4RB's to DBB. FA: G Hill, 2005	21	Sport	Jason Lammers 5 years ago Hard move at start, but good. graeme hill Steep and not a goo climb for short arses due to start requirements.

1.2.5. Gardens of Stone 7 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon): Smaller broken cliffline.
Approach:© (gavin lyon): South of 'Members Area'

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Horses Gift Left of 'The Dish'. Start in the corner next to the tree. Hard start. 4 RB's to DBB FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008	15	Sport 11m	John Lattanzio 11 months ago Dicky anchor position
2	The Dish Start up the crack then step left and up the face. 5 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	18	Sport 11m	Brett Baker 7 years ago Stuffed up the first part. Clean on the second attempt.. David McQueen 7 years ago Crappy rock and not getting any better.
3	Hazy Days Up middle of slab. 3 RB's to DBB FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008	17	Sport 11m
4	Simple Life Up the middle of the gently angled slab. 3 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	10	Sport 12m	Alex Rogers 3 weeks ago Perfect beginners route - my 6 & 8 year olds loved it Daniel McNamara solo
5	Cruise Control Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab. 4 RB's to DBB. FA: Alicia Townshend,	9	Sport 12m	Alex Rogers 3 weeks ago Another really good beginners route Jodie M 7 years ago lovely warm up on a hot day
6	Anti-Gravitron Start on slab to right of overhanging wall. Finish next to small tree. 5 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	20	Sport 12m	John Lattanzio 11 months ago Tough, crucial may need pinning. Ben Stone 7 years ago really good thin climbing - was getting tired near the end of the day - no excuse
7	New Years Resolution 3m right of AG. Follow the grey streak to left of large diagonal crack. 5 RB's to DBB. FA: Mark Rewi,	22	Sport 11m	David McQueen 7 years ago This is not a 22. Can't even pull the last move off a rest. Destroys an otherwise nice face climb... Daniel McNamara 7 years ago great, couple of mono holds,

1.2.6. Titanic 5 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Description:© (gavin lyon): Isolated crag.
Approach:© (gavin lyon): 100m south of 'Gardens of Stone' area.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Twilitght Zone Sustained moves up the arête. 5 RB's to DBB. FA: Gavin Lyon,	20	Sport 14m
2	It's a Lark Up corner past orange rock at ¾ height. Step right at top. 6 RB's to DBB. FA: Jodie Matthews,	14	Sport 15m	constantine carluen 1 years ago yeah another one which is great to learn how to lead. Gary John Bowden 6 years ago nice easy climb
3	Sinking Fast It starts in an overhanging wide crack with some soft, suspect rock for the feet. It works up through a pod that can be stemmed and face climbed around. Start: The route follows the obvious overhanging corner left of Dad's Comb. FA: Bruce Hendrix, Marco Cunningham, Aaron Mbakwe and Tom Jamieson., 2000	16	Trad 14m
4	Dad's Comb Start under right-hand end of overhang. Step out and up following crack. Natural gear. FA: Chris Parfitt, 2005	12	Trad 14m	constantine carluen 1 years ago nice easy climb, great for learning how to lead.
5	Mum's Short and Curleys Start to right of Dad's Comb trad route. Up to third bolt, step left and follow last 2 bolts diagonally left to anchors. 5 RB's to DBB FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008	12	Sport 15m	Alex Rogers 3 weeks ago Quite a tricky start with some swing potential, then easily up.

1.3. Panther 31 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:: An area canvassing the cliffs between Moonshine and Hylands lookout. A vast amount of rock with a lot more potential and less broken cliff lines than other areas nearby.

About 35 routes spread out along a number of butresses, each with a very different feel.

Location: Drive out along the Braidwood road until you go past Turpentine Road (on your left a major road) a further 50 mtrs on your right turn into Deans Gap Road, follow this dirt road for a couple of kms until you hit the powerlines. Turn left under the power lines and follow them down the hill past one tower and stop about 100 mtrs before the creek (you know your in the right place if there is a small clearing at the edge of the bush and the very small ground cover is flattened by cars). Look for a white road marker showing the start of the track!

Walk westwards into the bush via the clearing and follow the track marked by yellow ribbon (John drinks coopers for trackwork donations) it will bring you out to a small gully. Go down the gully and go left facing out, you should be walking under overhangs now (for 200 mtrs).

When you get to the end of this walk you should be at the first climbs in the "Access Canyon" at the back of this canyon is a scramble to get you access to the other areas, just follow the cliff for 5 mins when you see a large curving flake your at "Story Wall" and just around the corner is "Tiger Wall".
Approach:© (ropedonkey): Drive out along the Braidwood road until you go past Turpentine Road (on your left a major road) a further 50 mtrs on your right turn into Deans Gap Road, follow this dirt road for a couple of kms until you hit the powerlines. Turn left under the power lines and follow them down the hill past one tower and stop about 100 mtrs before the creek (you know your in the right place if there is a small clearing at the edge of the bush and the very small ground cover is flattened by cars). Look for a white road marker showing the start of the track!

Walk westwards into the bush via the clearing and follow the track marked by yellow ribbon (John drinks coopers for trackwork donations) it will bring you out to a small gully.

Go down the gully and go left facing out, you should be walking under overhangs now (for 200 mtrs).

When you get to the end of this walk you should be at the first climbs in the "Access Canyon" at the back of this canyon is a scramble to get you access to the other areas, just follow the cliff for 5 mins when you see a large curving flake your at "Story Wall" and just around the corner is "Tiger Wall".

Go to 'Access Canyon' area for a location map...

1.3.1. Access Canyon 7 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: After walking along the amazing chossy overhangs, once you get to the end you will find the climbing at the back near the exit.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Scumbag with a bumbag Hard start or i was tired, easing middle then a nails hard slab at the top Start: Hoist yourself up with some underclings then follow the vague arete FA: Rick Phillips,	23	Sport 16m
2	Fine by Me! (project) Start: Use the faint flake trending left, Put a long draw or stick clip 2nd bolt FA: Rick Phillips,	22	Sport 20m
3	Simon's Dash for Cash Hard start getting thru the pockets then up to mantles and easing to the scoop at top Start: 4 mtrs left of corner FA: Rick Phillips,	21	Sport 16m
4	Jugging with Jasper Starts in the corner then you layback the crack, which leads to a steepening head wall. Start: In the corner, with the obvious layback corner at mid height FA: Rick Phillips,	17	Sport 18m	Vanessa Wills a bit wet and dirty and leech attack
5	Frank & Beans! Starts 3 Mtrs Right of JJ climbs the pillar thru the little roof Start: Just right of the corner on the pillar made of stacked blocks FA: Matthew Tranter,	17	Sport 16m	Matt Tranter 3 years ago Bolted by Rick Pillips
6	Beer Goggles Project adam		Unknown
7	Wallwombat's project		Sport

1.3.2. Tell your story area 20 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:© (ropedonkey): Large impressive cliffs up to 30m high. There is some good (bolted) crack routes plus the usual variety of slabs, walls and corners.
Approach:© (ropedonkey): 100m right of 'Access' 'Gully'

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Whiskey A Go-Go (project rick) This climb starts on the big flake and takes the left hand line of bolts Start: On black and orange wall just left of cave with large fern growing in corner. FA: rick phillips, 2000		Sport 12m
2	CBGB (project rick) Same start then head right and pull thru the orange bulge, then pick your way up the thin head wall to finish at SOHO's anchors Start: Same as Whiskey a go go and follow the line of bolts right at third bolt. FA: rick phillips, 2000		Sport 18m
3	Soho (project rick) Hardish start leads to easy mid section with a punchy finish Start: 3 mtrs right of large fern, straight up black wall. FA: rick phillips, 2000		Sport 18m
4	A Bang and a Wimpy Start 10m left of Boogie Nights, has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	22	Sport 15m , 9
5	Boogie Nights Thin,technical and sustained slab climbing. Start: Start just left of the shrubery on the cliff. FA: John Lattanzio, 2009	20	Sport 18m , 10	John Lattanzio 3 years ago sustained slab climbing
6	Bring on the Fluffer Feeling a bit deflated? This is the one for you. The black slab a few meters left of the corner. Start: Start at the base of the corner. FA: John Lattanzio,	20	Sport 18m , 10	John Lattanzio 3 years ago crimy slab climbing.
7	Old Dog New Tricks The left leaning crack in the wall 3m left of ICDI. Start at the base of the obvious crack. Some classic crack climbing and with face climbing at the top. Take small to medium cams and medium to large nuts. FA: John Lattanzio, Jason Lammers,	20	Mixed 23m , 6	John Lattanzio 3 years ago Mixed route. Classic crack climbing
8	Rockaholic ! Start 1m right of crack at obvious poocket. It's the one to do on this wall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	24	Sport 20m
9	Rock Out with your Cock Out An ode to Hill !! Shared start with ICDI, then upwards leaning to the left. FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	22	Sport 20m	John Lattanzio 3 years ago great climbing up a great line. Daniel Mackey 3 years ago ultra-rad reachy moves. Will come back to tick
10	I Cairn Do It! No cairn needed! The 1st move is the best move. Hardish bulgy start, then move out right towards the arete and up. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	19	Sport 18m , 9	John Lattanzio 3 years ago good warm up for this area. steeper than it looks. Daniel Mackey 3 years ago I actually like the first move off the ground!
11	Bullet Proof Best rock at the crag. Lovely marbled pockets up subtle prow. The start move goes via a sneaky move from the block on the right. Bonus crux at the top through the rooflet. Start: Starts 1m left of Seeking 'Solace'.	25	Sport 17m , 9
12	Seeking Solace in the Bottle Strenuous and technical climbing up the line left of the obvious square cut roof with a couple of finger locks chucked in to boot. Start: Start off the block under the square cut roof. FA: Johnny Wog Dog, 2009	24	Sport 23m , 11	John Lattanzio 3 years ago Have a great layback sequence, not over till u clip the anchors.
13	Steel Salvation OMG, a bolted crack! Carefully up just right of cave and trend left up to the flake crack. FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	22	Sport 20m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago Horay for RBs
14	Whatever Minger 20 mtrs right of square cut roof at off width crack. FA: Rick Phillips,	21	Sport 22m	John Lattanzio 3 years ago Not 21 if you can climb cracks, more like 19
15	Tell Your Story Walking The left hand flake line. Start: In the corner. Climb the crack, surmount the little roof, the slabby corner to ledge and final headwall. FA: John Lattanzio, 2009	17	Sport 16m , 9	John Lattanzio 3 years ago keeps you thinking, take some cams if you scare easily. Jason Lammers 3 years ago Rad Feature
16	Flake Orgasm Excellent climb that traverses in from "tell your story walking" until you get established on the flake. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	23	Sport 20m , 12	Jason Lammers 2 years ago RAD ! John Lattanzio 3 years ago They don't get much better than this.
17	Should'a Been a Contender Batman up to 2nd bolt (or climb tree) then arete and nice face. Start: Starts 5m right of 'Flake' Orgasm on the arete. FA: Glenn Jones, 2009	23	Sport 20m , 10
18	Myopia Great climbing once you get past the start shenanigans. Option 1 (the true free version!) involves climbing the tree for 5m and awkwardly traversing right. Option 2 (The better way) is just to stick clip the first bolt and hoist your way up batman style to the first holds. Stem up the hanging corner, then left under roof and finish up right line of bolts above.	22	Sport 19m , 9
19	Coefficient of Drag An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	20	Sport 20m , 12
20	Eyes Wide Shut (Monty Project) The bouldery steep wall that gains the corner of 'Myopia' then straight out of the roof and up the arete.		Sport 25m , 14

1.3.3. Tiger wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Tiger Tales The line. Mega ! FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	24	Sport 30m	Vanessa Wills lovely sustained route rick phillips A super duper fantastic climb, been walking about in the bush for a year trying to find a wall li...
2	Godzilla Right of TT with hard stopper crimpy move on the slab. Then pump your way to the top. The longest route in Nowra ?? FA: Monty, 2010	26	Sport 35m , 15
3	Infans Panthera Stops b4 the cave. FA: Monty, 2010	20	Sport 20m , 8
4	Panthera Left of TT - climb to the top. FA: Monty, 2010	21	Sport 30m , 16

1.4. Hylands Lookout 123 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: Five minute access, accessible by 2 Wheel Drive and in a quiet wilderness setting, the Hylands is a sandstone cliff comprising 3 sections, the north-western and south-western cliffs and the "middle ground" area in between. The rock quality varies from loose flaky scabs and conglomerate, to slightly sandy, to clean and compact. The south-western side has continuous vertical walls up to 30m high, whereas the northwestern side is more broken up but has some interesting short walls, prows, corners, and ledges. The cliffline on which Hylands is situated is extensive and there is the potential for further development, both at Hylands, and further along the cliffline (Utopia Crag). There may also be some bouldering potential.
Approach:© (nmonteith): Hylands 'Lookout' is on Deans Gap Road located off Braidwood road

about south-west of 'Nowra'. From 'Nowra', take the Braidwood

Road past the air force base, continuing along the newly sealed

road. Around 20 klms from 'Nowra' a major intersection will appear with Turpentine Road joining from the left. 50 metres past this intersection, is a dirt road on the right with some chunky blue-metal gravel at the start. This is Deans Gap Road and is marked as such on many maps.

From Canberra, Deans Gap Road is about 100m on the left past the first 'Turpentine Rd' sign.

Zero your odometer when you turn onto Deans Gap Rd – it passes under some power lines (turn left here for 'Panther' crga access) after about 3km; at 3.5km from Braidwood Rd take a road on the left which appears on a right-hand bend; 'Hylands Lookout' is a further 700m along at the end of this road. If your car can negotiate the last rocky section of the road, you will be deposited directly on top of the cliff. There is a great view down the valley, carved out by Boolijong Creek. The road goes left for another 50m which takes you directly to the top of the south-western cliff. Either scramble down the cairned gully/chimney here or for 'Utopia' crags walk south along cliff top (follow yellow tags in trees) for 300 mtrs and go down the wide gully and turn left, continue along the bottom of the cliff for another 150 mtrs and you should come to "Crash and Burn" wall, just around the corner is "Middle Earth" area and 150 mtrs further is "Punch and Judy" area. To get to "Wave Walls" walk another 200 mtrs along until you come across a section of orange cliff about 10 mtrs high the climbs start at the end at present.

1.4.1. North-Western side 8 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Approach:© (nmonteith): The north-western side is to the right of the descent gully described above, but the climbs start about 100m (?) further along. The cliff on this side is more broken up than the south-western side, but has more variety in the rock features. There are some sections with superb, clean rock which require little

or no cleaning, but also a lot of loose stuff. There are several ways to access the north-western side since it is fairly broken up, and this will most likely depend on which climbs you would like to get to. Currently there are two climbs that start from

the bottom of the cliff – 'Toxic Beauty' and 'Igor the Lada'. Apart from 'Easy Tiger!', the rest of the climbs are on the Sunny Ledge and can be accessed via a rock scramble from the top of the cliff. The Sunny Ledge is a good place to climb in winter due to its northerly aspect. If you can get your car down the rough north track, you will end up on a flat rock platform, and about 50m out from here is the cliff edge, although finding the access to the climbs from here is tricky. 'Access' is described

within the climbs below.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Tree House A nice boulder problem with a couple of bolts. Start at the groove, crank over bulge and up to the jug with the little tree growing behind it (try to grab this hold on the right-hand side to avoid breaking the tree's house!).	23	Sport 6m , 3

1.4.1.1. Toxic Beauty area 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: This sector is essentially at the other end of the Hylands cliff comprising Upper and Lower Middle Ground.
Approach:: Easiest approaoch is via the regular approach to the other Hylands Sectors. After descending the rungs, continue down the slope and walk along the cliff under Middle Ground Lower for at least 100m. After a little bush bashing keep your eyes open for a line of bolts up a pocketed light grey wall, this is Toxic Beauty.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Toxic Beauty The name of this climb came from reading an article about chemicals in skin-care products. A little ripper with some nice pockets! Starts directly below 'Easy Tiger!' from the bottom of the cliff. Up the centre of the pocketed buttress and short wall at top, to anchor just below the ledge. If continuing up 'Easy Tiger!' to the top of the cliff, the second can be belayed from the large tree on the ledge.	21	Sport 18m , 6
2		Easy Tiger! A pleasant outing. Starts from the ledge directly above 'Toxic Beauty'. High step up groove, then left up short orange pockety wall, and over bulge. A good (optional) nut placement is possible on the grey wall above, otherwise head straight up past RB. Mantle onto ledge, and hoick yourself up over the small cave lip to the anchor.	15	Sport 23m , 5

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Toxic Beauty

The name of this climb came from reading an article about chemicals in skin-care products. A little ripper with some nice pockets! Starts directly below 'Easy Tiger!' from the bottom of the cliff. Up the centre of the pocketed buttress and short wall at top, to anchor just below the ledge. If

continuing up 'Easy Tiger!' to the top of the cliff, the second can be belayed from the large tree on the ledge.

Sport 18m , 6

Easy Tiger!

A pleasant outing. Starts from the ledge directly above 'Toxic Beauty'. High step up groove, then left up short orange pockety wall, and over bulge. A good (optional) nut placement is possible on the grey wall above, otherwise head straight up past RB. Mantle onto ledge, and hoick yourself up over the small cave lip to the anchor.

Sport 23m , 5

1.4.1.2. The Sunny Ledge 5 routes in Area

Summary:: Top Rope,Sport

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Easy Tiger!	23	Unknown 6m
2	Corrugations Follow the water worn feature straight up.	19	Sport 10m , 5
3	DeWaltzing Matilda 3m right of 'Corrugations'. Slabby start and through juggy overlaps.	18	Sport 11m , 5
4	Mind the Gap On the adjacent buttress, the line in the middle of face. Carefully cross the gap (there is a RB for the belayer to clip into to prevent any falls off the ledge). Straight up, then some nice sequency moves veering left then right.	20	Sport 11m , 6
5	Igor the Lada Starts from the bottom of the cliff, directly below 'Mind the Gap'. Follow the line of bolts and either exit onto the Sunny Ledge, or continue up 'Mind the Gap'.	20	Sport

1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper 20 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The area just left of the green rungs. Awesome orange rock. A good winter destination.
Approach:© (bundybear): Scramble down the access gully as for South Western area, but when you get to the green rungs, head right (looking out). The first route is about 30m from the rungs.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Two Up Starts just right of the crack on the steep orange wall then traverses around the arete, not as nice as "Spinner" and a touch harder. FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	19	Sport 15m , 8
2	Come in Spinner Same start as Two Up then just blast up thru the orange squeeze out onto the arete where it meets the roof. Finishes at Two Up anchors. FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	19	Sport 18m , 8		Vanessa Wills 3 years ago looks choss but climbs OK. Shame about rope drag
3	Sunset Boulevard 30 mtrs from the rungs at the first orange wall, has two pockets to start the climb then on the wall until you push out onto the arete FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	18	Sport 20m		Michael Helin 3 years ago This is an awesome climb very hard start for an 18. Vanessa Wills 3 years ago oops. A nowra start
4	Shenanigans Starts in middle of black wall just around from Sunset Boulevard, then goes out to the right hand arete FA: John Lattanzio & Rick Phillips, 2011	22	Sport 15m , 11
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
5	The Establishment Climbs the right side of the the Establishment wall. Nice big jugs the whole way. FA: Jason Lammers, 2010	21	Sport 15m		Neil Monteith 1 years ago Great warm-up route on uber jugs. Anchor is in a death block. Jason Lammers 3 years ago FA. Probably easier than 21
6	Ivy Bouncers Your arms will feel like they got thumped by five bouncers in a basement. Start up ramp as for 'The Establishment', then take left line of rings up middle of immaculate orange face, joining back into 'The Establishment' at the fifth bolt with a wild lunge right to the arête. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011	24	Sport 15m , 8
7	Bloodsport For All The steep, overhanging corner crack sporting stainless steel. Stem, jam and layback - just like a trad route. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	21	Sport 15m , 9		Oliver Story 2 years ago Great route... something different Vanessa Wills 2 years ago a bolted crack! gone to the darkside
8	Marmion Just after steep white pocketed wall on undercut orange arete. Bouldery start best to extend 4th draw FA: Willz, 2000	24	Sport 18m		Oliver Story 2 years ago Weird last bolt
9	Willy Bonker in the Chocolate Daiquiri (project Will) Start: In undercut steep blank roof Yay! FA: Will Watkins, 2000		Sport 10m
10	Who's Ya Daddy Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete. FA: Matt Brooks, 2012	29	Sport 15m , 7
11	Dixie Normus The rightward trending flake feature. Start: Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'. After tackling the intial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	25	Sport 8m , 7		Matt Brooks 6 weeks ago Cool! John Lattanzio 10 months ago Finally got this one. Some great sequences and a good addition to this wall.
12	Long Dong Silver Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then up wall above. Might be 25.	24	Sport 10m , 5
13	Will-da-Beast (project Will) Start: Just a slap right of Lap Dance, get both hands on a good hold and keep cranking...Ooooh Yeah!!! FA: Will Watkins, 2000		Sport 9m
14	Lap Dance for a Lazy Libido Start: The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up. FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	25	Sport 9m , 4		Neil Monteith 1 years ago Grade 25 without a doubt. Three days work and still no tick. rick phillips 2 years ago Great...No wait stellar moves on steep rock Hardest steep one for me!! but so happy
15	Lesbian Liberator Start: Same start as Lap Dance then head left at second draw. FA: Graham "Liberator" Fairburn, 2000	26	Sport 9m
16	Seaman Staynes Fun laybacking up wafer thin flake arete thingy 2m right of the wide crack. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	22	Sport 9m , 3		Vanessa Wills 1 years ago As fun as sticking a pencil in your eye, sharp and painful. John Lattanzio 2 years ago A worthy warm up for this wall.
17	Eric Shaun Start: 'Worthless' mini route. Very left hand end of steep pocketed wall. The last few moves are fun if you put the blinkers on and don't stem off the choss to the left. Not a good warm up. FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	19	Sport 8m		Jason Lammers 2 years ago EotD rick phillips 2 years ago Gets better with age??...was a bit grainy but a few ascents may have cleaned it up...Now people a...
18	Project willz Big orange arete with tough move at the end.		Sport 15m
19	Rubics Cube Starts in the middle of an orange wall, with funky looking features near the top. The track stops five mtrs on. Climb on the right side till second bolt then head back across onto the left wall before swapping back again, makes for a fun climb. FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	16	Sport 15m , 9		Vanessa Wills 2 years ago excellent fun for the grade Michael Helin 3 years ago Very good climb i found it hard for a 16
20	Work is Such a Wank At the curving flake Fun climb well protected for first lead at the grade, some techo moves for the grade....Just think outside the square.. FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	14	Sport 18m , 10		Vanessa Wills 11 months ago The start of a weekend of putting up topropes.... Matt Tranter 2 years ago Nice warm up. Hard to grade.

1.4.3. South-Western side 50 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:: This side of the cliff is characterised by vertical faces, some are uninterrupted for the entire 30m height of the cliff. It tends to be easier to find your way around here, as all routes start from the bottom of the cliff. The lower half of this cliff tends to be more solid and so there are several climbs that end before the upper half. However some sections are good and climbs on these sections go to the top. Prior to 2005 there were quite a few routes done at this crag by persons unknown - and some of these have been retrobolted by recent climbers. If anyone knows more please get in touch!

The cliff is in the shade in the morning (till about 2pm) and gets the sun in the afternoon (although the bottom half of the cliff is shaded by the trees).

A short scramble is required to get to the bottom of the cliff. Locate a narrow gully with a few trees at the top to the right of the rock platform (marked with a rock cairn). Follow the gully down a chimney on the right, and then follow the line of least resistance down to the water-worn rock to a small ledge with a large tree. Below this tree on the left there is a short wall with big hand and foot holds sculpted out of the rock(another relic left by our alien predecessors). These days there is some nice green steel rungs to help you down as well.

At the bottom of the cliff, walk around to your left (facing out) and you will access the south-western side of the cliff where climbing starts.
Approach:© (nmonteith): This side of the cliff is characterised by vertical faces, some are uninterrupted for the entire 30m height of the cliff. It tends to be easier to find your way around here, as all routes start from the bottom of the cliff. The lower half of this cliff tends to be more solid and so there are several climbs that end before the upper half. However some sections are good and climbs on these sections go to the top. Prior to 2005 there were quite a few routes done at this crag by persons unknown - and some of these have been retrobolted by recent climbers. If anyone knows more please get in touch!

The cliff is in the shade in the morning (till about 2pm) and gets the sun in the afternoon (although the bottom half of the cliff is shaded by the trees).

A short scramble is required to get to the bottom of the cliff. Locate a narrow gully with a few trees at the top to the right of the rock platform (marked with a rock cairn). Follow the gully down a chimney on the right, and then follow the line of least resistance down to the water-worn rock to a small ledge with a large tree. Below this tree on the left there is a short wall with big hand and foot holds sculpted out of the rock(another relic left by our alien predecessors). These days there is some nice green steel rungs to help you down as well.

At the bottom of the cliff, walk around to your left (facing out) and you will access the south-western side of the cliff where climbing starts.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Castor's Bullox Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Start: Two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box FA: V Hill, 2000	25	Sport 15m , 8
2	STTTTuck on U Glenns Project direct Project Start: Up WFW and then direct to Freeloader varient		Unknown
3	Dismember - Project Vero Thin and hard. For those about to crimp we salute you! Start: Same Batman start as 'Red Member'.		Unknown 15m
4	Project - Bundy The right side of the Pillar. FA: Jason Lammers, 2000		Sport 12m , 6

1.4.3.1. Liquidity Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:: The first wall you come to once down the descent gully (after a choss cave). The wall features a slabby start, bulge and crimpy finish. It is located right below the south carpark. More routes to come here!

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Fancy That! Start: Easy start followed by a bit of a wander gets you to the steep fun section FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	19	Sport 18m	Matt Tranter 2 years ago Nice jug pulling through the roof rick phillips Great in the roof part and a doddle at the bottom
2	Liquidity First route on the first good wall on the South West Side. Orange flakes to start, through bulge and up reachy wall above.	21	Sport 20m , 7	rick phillips 2 years ago bit of a mental game this one...will punish you if you scare easy...Like me anyway Glad its done...
3	Birds Over Burnouts Long varied climbing with a wonderful finish headwall. First bolt of 'Liquidity' then take right line of bolts up small left facing corner, over roof and weave up technical headwall.	22	Sport 25m , 10	Vanessa Wills 2 years ago one or two moves maybe make it 22? rick phillips 2 years ago This is a cool climb...Nothing hard just keep plodding. Can climb this stuff all day everyday
4	Peugeot: French for Lemon! Follow bolts along ramp to rest then crux move getting onto top head wall Start: Under the big rightwards leaning ramp FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	18	Sport 28m	Matt Tranter 2 years ago Hard slabbing at the bottom. rick phillips Crackling rosie is the better climb but the ramp makes for interesting climbing
5	Crackling Rosie Long fun climb at about 18 all the way, a little exposed way up there!!! Start: At crack 4 mtrs right of "Peugeot" follow crack and wall to finish at same anchors FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	18	Sport 28m	psmythe 10 months ago Onsight in a downy. The only way to climb at Nowra :) Vanessa Wills 11 months ago In the rain. Really good climb, quite varied
6	Four Nil Start just right of CR. Up thin wall. FA: Will Watkins, 2010	25	Sport 25m
7	STTTuck on U Freeloader The direct line to Freeloader Variant. Start as for Wait Till Winter to the break then the thin crux and continue to join Freeloader Variant. FA: Glenn Jones, 2012	24	Sport 25m , 12
8	Freeloader Varient As for WfW. After the crux move left and continue to top of the cliff. Great addition - although the crux is still WfW, probably 20 to the top.. FA: Glenn Jones, 2010	24	Sport 25m
9	Wait till Winter Tricky start left of AC. Up the thin wall, with plenty of RBs to show the way. Shared anchors with AC. FA: Jason Lammers, 2010	24	Sport 20m , 9	Vanessa Wills 2 years ago stars and grade may be slightly overinflated. Nice though.
10	Alien Crack Follow obvious zigzagging crack. Classic trad climbing finishing of with a few bolts. (20m) FA Jason Lammers 13/03/2010 FA: Jason Lammers, 2010	16	Mixed 20m , 2	Lauren Chandler 2 years ago Hmm... trade... not for me to lead Matt Tranter 2 years ago Still a bit loose in places. The top is hard for the grade.

1.4.3.2. Dark Energy Slab 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: A low angle black textured slab

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	An Easy Day for a Lady Before it had had its first female ascent, the Matterhorn in Switzerland was considered to be a tough climb, fit for only the strongest male mountaineers. After a woman climbed the Matterhorn, it was considered to be an easy day for a lady. The route starts on the left side of the gridbolted black slab 30m right of 'Liquidity'. Techy slab on little pockets then continues on the right-hand buttress, onto a ledge and up a short blunt arete. At the short headwall at the top, follow the line of least resistance to the right and the anchor is just over the top. Route needs a direct finish and a lower-off!	18	Sport 29m , 9
2	A Loose Lady That's Easy Start: Second climb on the black slab as you approach from left...Bit of thinking needed in the middle FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	19	Sport 15m	Boyd Robinson 1 years ago Tricky slabbing, not a warm up! Matt Tranter 2 years ago Nice slabbing, cool moves once you get your feet right.
3	An Easy Lady on the Loose Start: Four mtrs right of Easy Day, up slab to anchors, nice warm up FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	17	Sport 15m	Boyd Robinson 1 years ago Nice and soft ; ) Matt Tranter 2 years ago Nice route, even if it is a slab. Fair for the grade and a nice finish.
4	Loose Oranges Starts 2m right of DW on blank black slab. Has an interesting balancy mantle! Finish right at the anchors of 'Dark Energy'.	21	Sport 15m , 6
5	Dark Energy Very technical slab climbing up black blank wall. Straight up on finger scoops. Don't try this one on a hot day it is quite engaging for a number of thin sequences. Start: At black slab three meters left of the arete.	23	Sport 15m , 5
6	Nazomi A balancy and technical arete on the right edge of this wall. Quite sustained and a little sandy.	22	Sport 15m , 5	Peter Nettlefold 2 weeks ago Great balancy route. Nice compact gritty rock. Vanessa Wills 3 years ago very dirty. Hold broke. I think it would be good.

1.4.3.3. Zombie Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Mon Zombie A good climb up the other side of the arete. When you get towards the top remember that line from the favourite porn movie and "Slap that Butt" cos if you don't the next line from the movie will instantly come to mind, "yo bro watch the wind!" Start: Same start as for 'Nazomi'. FA: V Hill, 2010	21	Sport 10m , 7
2	Mon Zombie Right Hand Start A bit crunchy. Will probably never get a repeat as it puts a hard start on a fun route and nobody wants that. Start: Around corner to the right of previous two climbs. FA: Hill,	21	Sport 10m , 3
3	Votre Dernier Chance Wanders away from the third bolt to the left a bit to avoid any hard climbing. Otherwise a fine slabby wall with some interesting foot holds or lack there of. Start: Three meters right of the alternative start to Mon Zombie FA: Hill,	21	Sport 12m , 9
4	Hill Project Start: Shares same start as the previous route. Approximately three meters right of arete. FA: Hill,		Sport Project 15m , 11
5	Another Piece of Crap A nice looking orange wall. Takes the line up the disjointed flake system. The easier climbing being in the top section. Plenty of bolts to keep even the biggest girlies happy. FA: Hill, 2011	23	Sport 20m , 10
6	Benga Benga To The Death Unless the photo Topo gets corrected ignore it. Great climbing across the orange part of the wall on classic goutes deau and other large pockets. When you get to the crux shout BENGA BENGA and keep going. The black stuff looks crappy but is still good climbing. If your feet fall off trade in your boots for better rubber. Start: Off the top of the large block. Same start as 'Testeagles'. FA: Hill,	24	Sport 18m , 11
7	Testeagles Great fun bridging up the corner. FA: Hill,	20	Sport 18m , 9

1.4.3.4. Mystery Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Description:: Just right of Zombie Wall, this impressive looking vertical wall with a striking similarity to the Blue Mountains.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Unleash The Bitch Has a fantastic gritstone like section just off the ledge near the bottom. The climb sports more bolts than probably necessary, but you wont hit the ledge anymore if you clip them all. Lower off rings available before the choss top or go thru to the rings over the top edge. Start: The first line of bolts right of the corner on the large vertical wall. FA: Alien Visitation Crew additional bolts G Hill, 2000	24	Sport 29m , 14
2	Alien Invasion A good rest in the middle breaks the action on this route. Next route left of Alien Anal Academy. Up wall following the long line of bolts to juggy finish. Or go thru to top on even extra crap rock. FA: Hill, 2010	22	Sport Project 29m , 14	Lauren Chandler 2 years ago ... Is currently marked as a project,,, but isn't. It is graded 22
3	Alien Anal Academy Technical wall climbing to get through to the ledge without busting your rectum out of its hiding place. Follow the tonnes of bolts through the orange band which makes the climb worth doing i must add. At the confusing conglomerate section wiggle a little right then back thru to the line on thin crimps. You have it in the bag now so punch thru to the top without bothering to clip any extra bolts. Huge jugs to finish. End at the two lower offs or if you have real guts push it thru the extra choss rock to exit over the top. You will need more draws for this though. FA: Hill, 2010	24	Sport 28m , 14
4	King of Pop Steep right trending line crossing a black streak and finishing up the featured orange stuff. Funky with a dramatic and unlikely finish. Start: 4th line of rings.	23	Sport 20m , 8	rick phillips Hard to tell if the story of this climb has two hard cruxs and one where you dont really want it?...
5	Piggy in the Middle Up HR until 3rd bolt, then directly up into orange rock. Finish on the last few bolts on KoP. Great Direct line. FA: Jason Lammers, 2010	23	Sport 20m , 9	Vanessa Wills 1 years ago A little spoogy but after the pain of the cave it was magnificent rock! Neil Monteith 1 years ago Great route and dry in mild drizzle.
6	Head Rush Awesome splitter hand crack to techy wall finish on bolts. A great looking line. Technical rather than too strenuous at the crux. Great rock than will stay clean unless the ferns grow back. Start: 3m right of King Of Pop at vertical hand crack. FA: Alien Visitation Crew additional bolts by G Hill, 2000	21	Sport 20m , 10	Vanessa Wills 3 years ago nice features. i think a hold broke... Jason Lammers Bolted Crack, Hill Gold.

1.4.3.5. Pillar Environs 3 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Description:: The free standing pillar and vertical black wall to the right of it. 20m right of Mystery Wall.

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	Learn to Swim Climb up ringbolts on leftside of pillar you can use the chimney. FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	16	Sport 12m , 5	Michael Helin 3 years ago 2nd Ascent
2	Bundy PROJECT Right side of pillar		Sport 10m
3	Terror Australis A bit strange - an adventure! Starts in the middle of the slabby (south) side of the pinnacle 20m right of Mystery Wall. Scramble up mossy slab to the small ledge below the pinnacle. Follow bolts up slab (with a tricky move in the middle, which is easier if you are tall) to top of pinnacle. Step across the gap onto the face and follow bolts on flakey crimps to anchor at the top of the wall.	21	Sport 27m , 8

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Learn to Swim

Climb up ringbolts on leftside of pillar you can use the chimney.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

Sport 12m , 5

Michael Helin 3 years ago

2nd Ascent

Bundy PROJECT

Right side of pillar

Sport 10m

Terror Australis

A bit strange - an adventure! Starts in the middle of the slabby (south) side of the pinnacle 20m right of Mystery Wall. Scramble up mossy slab to the small ledge below the pinnacle. Follow bolts up slab (with a tricky move in the middle, which is easier if you are tall) to top of pinnacle. Step across the gap onto the face and follow bolts on flakey crimps to anchor at the top of the wall.

Sport 27m , 8

1.4.3.6. Member's Only 9 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Hard crimpy vertical wall.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Remember A generally solid wall climb with a good first third. Plenty of bolts with generally sound rock except for the dreaded conglomerate band. Start: Five meters right of TA. On main wall at small left facing corner. FA: G Hill, 2010	22	Sport 20m , 11
2	Castor's Bullox Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Start two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box Up the short vertical rut section and push out to the left to gain jugs in the lower middle of the wall. Up to offset flake and then move left to follow bolts to the top. FA: V. Hill, 2011	25	Sport 15m , 8
3	Coffee Powered Shit Box Great climbing on good sized holds. No razor blade finger stuffing crimpers here. All vicious edges have been dealt with and anything you snap off is because you're off route. Start: At crack line that leads up towards end of obvious left leading ramp that bisects the wall. FA: G Hill, 2010	22	Sport 15m , 8	Vanessa Wills 2 years ago About 4 metres of nice climbing,the rest is summed up by the name. I should have known better tha...
4	September Great pockets and kind edges to the top. Easy for the grade if you calibrate it from the original route on this wall 'Black Mamba'. Start: Two meters right of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Or a little left of the true start to the obvious bisecting ramp. FA: G Hill, 2010	21	Sport 16m , 8
5	Organ Pipe Chocolate Cream A direct to 'September' which adds even thinner climbing to the already fine start. Start: As for 'September' FA: G Hill, 2010	23	Sport 14m , 8
6	Black Mamba About 8m right of the pinnacle on the black face. Thin and crimpy finger-shredding fun! Start up on obvious juggy feature, and straight up on evil crimps, finishing below the big cave and sandy ledge.	24	Sport 16m , 5
7	Black Member Great climbing up a slightly slabby wall. No real hard moves just a series of grade 20 sequences to the top. The bolts are placed to protect any unfortunate snap offs you may get on the thin flakes. No finger shredding at all on this one, all tame jugs. Start: Five meters to the right of BM. At obvious hole in the wall. FA: V Hill, 2010	22	Sport 15m , 10	Peter Nettlefold 2 weeks ago Great flakey wall. Few breakable holds still (a few less now), but great climbing. Stoked on th...
8	Weenie (Member) Reasonably sustained wall climbing with a crux near the top. Grade 16 all the way to the anchors. Start: Same as 'Black Member' under hole in wall. FA: V Hill, 2010	22	Sport 15m , 10	rick phillips Was 18 for about a week...Great moves on this climb....Actually this wall has great climbing but ...
9	Red Member Another solid wall climb, that keeps it's interest until almost the top before it gives up. The batman start avoids a rather strenuous start from the flake on the left. Start: Three meters right of BM. Batman to first bolt. FA: G Hill, 2010	22	Sport 15m , 8

1.4.3.7. Busted Arse Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Description:: The vertical wall just right of the obvious corner crack.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Sporty Trad - Bundy Project Awkward start, then battle up the cracks. FA: Jason Lammers, 2000	20	Sport 18m
2	Busted-arse Ol' Coot Start 8m right of the corner at the thin crack. Up the crack then trend left on thin holds. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	21	Sport 18m , 10	David O'Donnell 2 years ago fighting like a motherfucker- thanks for the draws dude Vanessa Wills 2 years ago Footer broke first go. Very Nowra start. Should clean up well.
3	Pucker Up Start as for Busted-arse Ol Coot. At the top of the crack go right on the flake line heading back left near the top to the anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 1910	21	Sport 16m , 8	John Lattanzio 3 years ago Good climbing with and interesting sequence up high.
4	Kiss This! 3 meters right of BaOC. Muscle onto the flake and climb with increasing difficulty until it relents to a jug haul. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	20	Sport 15m , 8	John Lattanzio 2 years ago Another good route on this wall.
5	Whistling Sphincter Climb the crack just right of Kiss This! Extra bolts have been added since initial ascent. FFA: Jon Porter, 2010 FA: Jon Porter, 2010	17	Sport 18m , 9	Matt Tranter 2 years ago Nasty, very nasty. Not sure who was madder, Jon for bolting it or me for going above the third b... John Lattanzio 3 years ago May need trad gear if you scare easily, intend to add bolts.

1.4.4. No Man's Land 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,?
Description:: Approach as for Utopia, at the bottom of the first gully turn right and follow the track about 100m to first climbs. The routes are described right to left from this approach. Alternatively can be approached from Hylands Lookout, Busted Arse area by walking along the base of the cliff.
Approach:© (ropedonkey): The area between Hylands and 'Utopia'

	Route	Grade	Style
1	oopps Glenn really hard project Hard start trend right easier as you move up. 3 metres right of Leeched as Bro.		Sport Project
2	Leeched as Bro Straight up above the stump via 10 bolts with a rest halfway. FA: Glenn Jones, 2010	22	Sport 30m , 10
3	Ho's B4 Bros(Project Rick) 3m left of Leech as Bro.		Unknown Project 30m
4	Willis Project Half bolted, but no more steel. When is the next batch of 1000m steel coming ? 3m left of Ho's B4 Bros. FA: Will Watkins, 2000		Sport
5	Glenn Project hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up Start: just right of the corner Hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up. just right of the corner		Unknown
6	Driven to Tears(Project Wogdog) 20m further left. The unmistakable thin crack in the yellow wall.		Sport Project 12m , 7

1.4.5. Utopia 39 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: A great little area with a variety of routes on good rock, many routes stay dry in wet weather. From the Hylands Lookout carpark walk south (left looking out) along the cliff top and pick up a well worn track marked with yellow tape, at the first gully, drop down and follow the base of the cliff to Crash and Burn Area. Alternativly, continue walking past the gully along the top of the cliff for about 100m until you reach a chimney with a little bridge at its top. Drop down this, a little squeezy, under a large jambed chockstone to reach the Hells Gate and Middle Earth Wall.

1.4.5.1. Crash and Burn Area 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey): The slightly overhanging orange and black wall with excellent rock and split by a right to left diagonal crack.
Approach:© (ropedonkey): Access by walking down the first wide gully you come to and go left and walk about 100m to this lovely wall. Routes described from left to right from this approach.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Scorched Earth Fine climb with deceptive crux FA: Rick Phillips,	23	Sport 18m	Vanessa Wills 1 years ago I thought it was fun.... Neil Monteith 1 years ago A bit stop start. Middle was good but didn't really enjoy start and finish due to fragile rock.
2	Crash and Burn Punchy bouldery start following bolts that trend right Start: In the cave under the end of the left leaning crack. FA: Rick Phillips,	18	Sport 12m	Vanessa Wills 1 years ago Good warm up Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Potentially snappy down low, fun though
3	Crack and Burn Could be a little harder if your technique is lacking (like mine!) Starts up left leaning crack to join crash and burn at three quarter hieght FA: Rock Phillips,	20	Sport 15m	Vanessa Wills 1 years ago It was easier when I didnt try to jamb Neil Monteith 1 years ago I thought this was the 18 and it shut me down as the morning warmup!
4	Removalist Like lifting mini bar fridges FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009	24	Sport 12m	Vanessa Wills 1 years ago Felt hard for grade, though I did all moves eventually! Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Fridge Lifting
5	Smash and Grab (project Rick) Thin and balancy climbing Start: Starts on right hand arete FA: Rick Phillips,	24	Sport 12m

1.4.5.2. Middle Earth Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey): Stunning white wall with oh so many features on it!
Approach:© (ropedonkey): Suck in ya guts and squeeze down the access chimney (really if you don't wear size 34 or less your stuck!)

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Stuck in the middle with you Technical start leads to an easing mid section, milk the rest as the top gets very steep Start: Start off the block and climb the blunt flake to begin. FA: Rick Phillips,	23	Sport 25m	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Possibly the best route at Utopia? Great length and moves. sharon tsetong 3 years ago hard start,
2	Water Works Great climb fun all the way FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	22	Sport 15m , 8	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Shut me down completely. I couldn't work out the thin crux moves. John Lattanzio 3 years ago nice slabby crux.
3	Broken Bishop Thin climbing with a technical crux. Start: 15 mtrs down from the chimney, up a little slab apron. Follow the line of bolts that head left and on to an easier flake. FA: Simon Vaughn, 2010	21	Sport 15m , 8	Neil Monteith 1 years ago A bit thin for my weak fingers Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Hardish crux and nice flake to grapple with as the reward
4	Keyboard Bruises Sharpen up your finger nails for this one, great moves on super rock Start: 3 mtrs left of crack, as for Broken Bishop then take the right line of bolts. Leave your office hands at home for this one! FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	22	Sport 10m , 5	Vanessa Wills 1 years ago It was too cold.... sharon tsetong 3 years ago very hard move for me- crimps and body tension galore
5	Not Fade Away Climbs the flake that leads to another flake, that leads to another flake! Start: At the eastern end of the wall, just left of the crack, shares Keyboard Bruises anchors FA: Brent Papek, 2010	17	Sport 10m , 6	Vanessa Wills 1 years ago Nice flake feature Neil Monteith 1 years ago Great feature and suprisngly good rock despite appearances.
6	Busted Blue Flower A vertical warm up with a hardish start and nice crux FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010	18	Sport 10m , 5	Simon Vaughan 3 years ago A vertical warm up with a hardish start and nice crux John Lattanzio 3 years ago not bad
7	Hells Gate First Climb on the wall once you exit the Hells Mouth Zorn. FA: Matthew Tranter, 2009	16	Sport 10m , 5	John Lattanzio 3 years ago a bit crumbly, should clean up, nice moves.
8	Cerberus Dirty, dirty, dirty route; but great fun moves. Will get better with a few good kickings. Balance up and control that barn dooring, grit style. Start: Start in the entrance of the Hells Mouth Decent gully. FA: Matthew Tranter, 2009	18	Sport 9m , 3	sharon tsetong 3 years ago long move John Lattanzio 3 years ago more like 16

1.4.5.3. Halfway House 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey): 75 mtrs south of Middle earth area

"Mash 4077" starts up left of Huge flake

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Mash 4077 Start: The middle line on the huge flake, just right of a massive burnt tree halfway up cliff FA: Morgan "Radar" Davis, 2000	14	Sport 11m
2		Hot lips McGurty Start: Up the right hand side of mega flake FA: Alex "Gurty" Morris, 2000	12	Sport 11m

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Mash 4077

Start: The middle line on the huge flake, just right of a massive burnt tree halfway up cliff

FA: Morgan "Radar" Davis, 2000

Sport 11m

Hot lips McGurty

Start: Up the right hand side of mega flake

FA: Alex "Gurty" Morris, 2000

Sport 11m

1.4.5.4. Bushwhacked Area 5 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Description:: The area just before Punch and Judy and arond the corner from The Halfway House. The obvious grey buttress split by a crack and bounded by two chimneys and the adjacent overhung grey wall.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Snapped Project GCJ Up the arete 3 bolts to lower off Start: Off block 3 metres left of Bushwacked		Sport 10m
2	Bushwhacked Start 3m left of the obvious crack. Climb to the ledge, then the technical slab and then steeper ground to join the crack to anchors of Crack, Back n Sack. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	25	Sport 20m , 12	John Lattanzio 3 years ago A long route that's steep and technical.
3	Crack,Back n Sack The obvious crack splitting this wall. Mixed route with trad gear needed down low, bolts up higher to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	22	Mixed 20m , 6	John Lattanzio 3 years ago Not much genuine crack climbing in this one, enjoy.
4	The Dog's Bollocks Starts off a ledge gained by batmaning up the fixed rope. The corner behind the big tree. FA: John Lattanzio, 2009	18	Sport 12m , 7	John Lattanzio 3 years ago Steep climbing on good holds.
5	The Duck's Nuts(Project Wogdog) The diagonal line in the middle of leaning wall.		Sport 15m , 10

1.4.5.5. Punch & Judy Area 14 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: A compact little sector with excellent rock capped by a large roof. The routes here vary from slab to steep face and pockets.
Approach:: Just a few meters beyond Bushwhacked Area.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Ground Zero Pumpy start and a little techo finish Start: Same as Peas in pod but trends left along large flake FA: rick phillips,	21	Sport 9m	Matt Tranter 3 years ago nice little route with a small sting in the tail. rick phillips Short climb up an interesting feature, not too shabby
2	Power of One Pumpy then just pumpy Start: Same as Peas in pod but climbs left hand side of overhanging arete, some weak scallywags have found an option of McDougling out left and making the climb a little easier. Your choice! FA: rick phillips,	22	Sport 9m	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Punchy big move - pumpy. rick phillips keeping left of the arete...there is an obvious mcdougal which makes it a little easier
3	Two Peas in a Pod Steep and pumpy start and crimpy techo finish Start: At the leaning arete FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	23	Sport 15m , 9	Ryan Weller 1 years ago techno finish in the rain! Neil Monteith 1 years ago Really fun big pockets
4	Three Blind Mice Eat your spinach for this one, short and steep on great rock. Start: 3 mtrs right of two peas. Shares same start as Four and Twenty. Up two bolts then goes left to anchors over the lip FA: Rick Phillips, 2010	23	Sport 9m , 7	Ryan Weller 1 years ago fun moves, pumpy if you don't move! Vanessa Wills 3 years ago much easier on a cool day
5	Four & Twenty Blackbirds Punchy climbing all the way Start: Same as Blind mice but trends slightly right to hard mantle, anchors set back over the top FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	24	Sport 9m	Jason Lammers Tricky mantle last move... rick phillips Just when you think its over out comes a hard mantle
6	Five O'Clock Shadow Technical climbing packed into a short route Start: Just right around the arete then takes line of bolts out left FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	18	Sport 10m	Vanessa Wills 11 months ago Not bad for a rainy day rick phillips Fun warm up and it stays dry in all weather, will make you think a little!
7	Potato Pause 1 Crux off the ground to hard move high FA: Simon Vaughan,	23	Sport 10m , 5	Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Tricky start rick phillips A filler
8	Potato Pause 2 Hard pulls at the start and finicky at the top FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009	21	Sport 10m , 5	Vanessa Wills 11 months ago Hard start Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Tricky start, Tricky finish
9	Six Pack (project Rick) Pump up your guns and traverse out left under the roof to anchors around the nose and over the lip Start: From the anchors of Five o'clock shadow continue steeply thru the roof FA: Rick Phillips), 2000		Sport 10m
10	Seven Eleven Start: Just right of Five o'clock shadow, slab moves increasing with difficulty with height FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	20	Sport 10m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago Ooops rick phillips Tough little slab on the wrong conditions
11	Hot August Night Start: At the vague corner go up the left hand side of flake FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	15	Sport 8m	Michael Helin 3 years ago Nice warmup should be longer. rick phillips One or Two hard moves over to quickly, but stays dry in all conditions
12	La Rambla The obvious extension to HAN to C9 anchors. How else to you get ur draws off C9 at the EOTD. FA: Jason Lammers, 2010	16	Sport 10m , 6	Vanessa Wills 11 months ago Easy enough
13	Cloud Nine Start: 2 mtrs right of "August Night" and punch up thru the bulge FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	24	Sport 10m	Vanessa Wills 11 months ago Some nice moments, didnt trust the belayer with his 40 second feed to lead on this one. Ryan Weller 1 years ago i suck
14	Common as Muck Nice climbing marred only by a little sand Start: Start at the sandy cave at the base of the little corner. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	18	Sport 13m , 7	Ryan Weller 1 years ago a little sandy but not bad. i kinda liked it! good feet around Neil Monteith 1 years ago Worst route at New Nowra? The start is terrible.

1.4.5.6. The Cinema Strip 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Unknown
Description:© (matttranter): Large steep wall bound on the left by a large chimney and burnt tree. Lots of potential for hard routes up this cool featured rock.
Approach:© (matttranter): 50m further along the cliff line from Punch and Judy Area. Connects with the 'Wave Wall'.

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Blu Ray Charles

Project by Simon Vaughan

Make the first break without to many problems then try to get established on the middle section that has a worrying lack of holds. Hard pulls to a great break and then a brilliant top section.

Unknown 18m

1.4.5.7. Wave Walls 4 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey): Well its the first time i have ever seen cliffs stacked in parallel with ten mtrs between them.
Approach:© (ropedonkey): Walk about 50m past Punch and Judy Sector to reach The Cinema Strip and Wave Wall a few meters beyond.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Konnichi Wa Easy moves up flake then pull down hard for the rest Start: Middle of wall up the obvious left leaning flake FA: rick phillips,	20	Sport 10m	Matt Tranter 3 years ago Great jug pulling. Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Fun
2	Salute' Fun jugging between great holds Start: 2 mtrs right of 'Konnichi Wa', jump or use cheat rock FA: rick phillips,	21	Sport 11m	Matt Tranter 3 years ago Good jug pulling. Locate the hidden hold on the bulge and it is easier than the grade. Miss it an... Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Fun
3	Guten Tag Harder start than salute but easier finish Start: 2 mtrs right of Salut FA: rick phillips,	22	Sport 11m
4	Trampoline Triceps Pull hard past the first bulges and then commit to hard moves to big jugs. Don't fall from the top easy section! Start: Last route on the 'Wave Wall'. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009	21 R	Sport 9m , 3

1.5. Lassiter's 89 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.465008, -35.059152

Description:

Easy access along the base of the crag. There will be quite a concentration of routes that will be mostly 15m to 25m high. About a hundred routes in this new area eventually from grade 10 to grade 30.

Approach:

Really just an extension of the Gold Mine cliff. A five minute flat walk through the bush to get to the top of the cliff, take the obvious tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk accross the top of the cliff (tagged) to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope and rungs to help you get down.. There is also another access gully/ramp at the other end of the crag (Sluice Box sector) which is roped and has rungs. It's a little harder to negotiate as it is more exposed and steeper and probably better as and exit from the crag than an approach. From the main track, locate a little gully on your right about 40m before you get to the cliff edge, follow the tagged track for about 100m to the next obvious little gully. Rope and rungs at the base of this gully.

As per the Goldmine..

Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.
1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.
1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.
3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"
4.5km: Continue along this road until the road swings around to the left (just before big puddle). Look for the obvious Parking on the side of the road.

Look for the tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk accross the top of the cliff to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope to help you get down.

1.5.1. Fucktardia 10 routes in Unknown

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: A bit further on past the "The Mullock Heap"

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Project Wogdog 8 Takes the obvious seam on orange rock under the large roof.		Sport Project 12m , 8
2	Five Star Dreams Start as for PW 8. Takes the right hand line up the lovely orange wall. Tough start into the seam, after the third bolt step right and climb the wall. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	23	Sport 14m , 8		John Lattanzio 6 months ago Has a tough start but well worth the effort. Great climbing on superb rock.
3	Rough, Raw and Ranting Start just left of a wide crack in a corner 8m before Wicked Ways. Climbs the grey wall under a large, chossy cave on good rock, then through the roof and little corner to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	20	Sport 18m , 11		John Lattanzio 10 months ago The typical Lassiter's start to gain the wall and a tough roof to finish, good fun.
4	Wiggle Room Start at the wide crack in the corner. Batman the start to avoid an unpleasant grovel in the undercut offwidth. Once over the undercut, climb the grey slab on great rock to a ticky move before the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	18	Sport 16m , 9		John Lattanzio 8 months ago Quite good and interesting once the start is done with, batmaning avoids the unpleasantness.
5	Wicked Ways Starts at the undercut chimney about 60m right of Money Shot. Tackle the awkward start and bridge to gain the right wall then on to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	16	Sport 15m , 6		Jason Lammers 12 months ago Yeah well, um, maybe once is too many on this one... John Lattanzio 1 years ago Some awkward bridging to start then nice face climbing.
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
6	Project Wogdog 6 Starts at a steep crack and the right end of the last steep rock of this sector.		Sport Project 16m , 11
7	Project - Bundy prou Up tube to break then diagonally left under big roof and up on exposed jugs to anchors. FA: Project - Jason Lammers,		Sport Project 22m		Jason Lammers 9 months ago Hard for fat people
8	Flight of the Fucktards Start at right end of cave. Climb up on jugs to exciting move thru the roof. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	21	Sport 22m , 9		Ben Jenga 9 months ago A quick repeat on bundys new rig. Good long route with plenty of rests and a good steel crux. Jason Lammers 9 months ago Exciting up there !!
9	Macmillan Madness Takes the arete and wall 1m right of the little corner. Pretty nice wall !! FA: Bob Macmillan, 2012	16	Sport 12m , 7		Matt Tranter 7 months ago Still snappy.
10	Booty Call Start 10m right of Macmillan Madness and around the corner. Climb the wall to a ledge, then slab and roof to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	19	Sport 12m , 8		John Lattanzio 8 months ago Quite good. Care needs to be taken clipping the bolt under the roof.

1.5.2. The Mullock Heap 19 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: Apon reaching the bottom of the descent gully turn left (facing out) and walk around the corner under the overhangs where it opens up to 20m walls with another shorter wall at right-angles further ahead. This is the Mullock Heap Area.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Fingers Hard fingery start, but eases off the higher you go. Start just right of 1st bolt. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	22	Sport 12m , 4	Sebastian Sakowicz 8 weeks ago 2nd shot. Great for the first two bolts. Then then quality drops right off. Rob Knight 6 months ago Really is all over at the first cave - 2 move wonder??? Second shot.
2	Knucklehead Start 3m right of Fingers and just left of the cleft and fern. Climb the left side of the cave then the flake line to top. The bouldery start is over quickly then pleasant climbing to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	17	Sport 15m , 7	Jason Lammers 9 months ago Not sure about the start. The rest is a run out doodle... John Lattanzio 1 years ago The bouldery start detracts from the rest of the climb, which is easier and quit good.
3	Shoulders on Snowy Starts 8m right of descent gully, at small waist high tree stump below steep hand crack. Stand on stump to start then take left line of bolts past scoop and up nice juggy headwall. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	18	Sport 16m	Matt Tranter 1 years ago Didn't need to jam! Loved the top. Worth a star. Neil Monteith 1 years ago Some fun jug pulling and a bit pumpy. Good warmup.
4	Dueling Drills Same steep handcrack start as previous route, then take right line of bolts which trends right up steepish grey shield. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011	18	Sport 17m	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Did the start this time without one jamb, not a bad climb, good adventure. Neil Monteith 1 years ago Ok jug haul with tricky start
5	First World Problem Jam up the twin cracks then at second bolt take the left line of bolts traversing under roof. Follow lower line of bolts using little edges all the way to join into Dueling Drills. Finish up headwall. Long runners useful to stop rope drag. FA: Neil monteith, 2011	22	Sport 20m	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Great fingery traverse on the crux
6	Project - Neil Halfway along left traverse on 'First World Problem' go out bulge via heuco and up steep fingerery grey wall above. Will be 26? Bolted by Neil Monteith who isn't sure he can do the moves,		Sport 20m	Ben Jenga 9 months ago Shame about the desperate start or the route would be mega. Did the crux move pretty easy but bai... Neil Monteith 1 years ago Bloody hard crux through the bulge. Sigh.
7	Hard Working Hands 20m right from the descent gully. Twin hand cracks up bulging wall then fantastic traverse right across face under bulging wall then up juggy face above. Superb marbled rock. If you can't jam you might have serious problems getting off the ground. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011	20	Sport 18m	Adam Bramwell 12 months ago Ok can someone show me how this is 20 please? Maybe with a two foot cairn Vanessa Wills 1 years ago A bit hard if you cant actually reach the crack to start. Traverse is also hard but the good bit.
8	Shadrach Memorial The leftmost traverse. Funky last move. FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2012	16	Sport 20m	Jason Lammers 12 months ago Sorta fun..
9	The Darkness Right to left leading line up a big black featured slab. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011	18	Sport 17m	Matt Tranter 7 months ago Nice. Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Brutal getting off ground
10	AeroPress The middle climb on this wall. As per the Darkness, and then thru crimpy buldge. Best on this wall. FA: Steve Hawkshaw & Jason Lammers, 2012	21	Sport 16m	Matt Tranter 7 months ago Nice. John Lattanzio 11 months ago Thin and sustained climbing.
11	Heart of Darkness Start as for The Darkness. First two bolts of TD then straight up, finishing with a slab. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	20	Sport 13m , 8	Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Meh. Jason Lammers 12 months ago Quite tricky in some places. I like this one !!
12	When you Smile at me I go to Rehab Up the short wall between the grey and white streaks. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	18	Sport 10m , 4	Sebastian Sakowicz 8 weeks ago Not too bad, a little fragile in places. Ben Jenga 9 months ago Haha I forgot I climbed this. Wicked fun for such a short route. Has the best rock around even if...
13	Ego Tango Leftmost route on this wall. Tricky start to rest and up to anchors. Its hard to resist the jugs on the right, but if you go direct on the finger pockets its 24. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	22	Sport 15m , 7	John Lattanzio 11 months ago Not bad, a little contrived. Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Fun either way- the start is tricky
14	Spot Gold The rather attractive arete on the left side of the orange wall capped with a roof. The middle route on this wall. Thin and technical start leads to sustained awesome jugs. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	23	Sport 13m , 8	Sebastian Sakowicz 8 weeks ago Not bad for a slabby crux. 2nd shot. Jason Lammers 12 months ago The peanut gallery loved this one :-)
15	A Spot Pumpy Link-up :) Starts up the great pockets and face holds of spot gold then finishs up the steep part of rumpy pumpy. FFA: Ben JengA, 2012	23	Sport 13m , 9	Ben Jenga 9 months ago I nice little link with the best of both climbs. Had to punch it at the crux, glad it was a jug ...
16	Goldielynx Start the ramp immediately right of 'Spot Gold'. Up line to cave then traverse left to finish up the 'Spot Gold Arete' FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	19	Sport 14m , 8	Sebastian Sakowicz 8 weeks ago Pumpy for a 19. Start not that easy either. Ben Jenga 9 months ago Good warm up with the top arête being a bit pumper then it looks.
17	Rumpy Pumpy Start on the ramp 2m right of Spot Gold. Up the line immediatly left of the cave and through the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	23	Sport 14m , 9	Sebastian Sakowicz 8 weeks ago Easy onsight because of the no hands rest just before the crux. Jason Lammers 9 months ago If only I knew where to go. Not too hard with the right sequence !!
18	Silver Bull The left hand route on the attractive wall adjacent to the Spot Gold wall. Start off the ramp below the left hand cave. Climb the wall, staying out of the cave for full value. Great climbing on good rock. FA: Jon Porter, 2011	12	Sport 14m , 8	Jason Lammers 1 years ago Really good. Great beginners lead ! John Lattanzio 1 years ago Great climbing, stay out of the cave for full value.
19	Money Shot Start at the undercut, hanging arete, 4m right of Silver Bull. After the tricky undercut start, climb the arete, traverse left under the cave and up the steep wall past some dubious but solid rock to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	16	Sport 15m , 7	Stephen Hawkshaw 12 months ago Scary Jason Lammers 1 years ago Exciting getting to the 2nd bolt.

1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: The walls leading around right (looking out) as you come down the descent gully. The first section is black with climbing gym sized holds on it.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	The Team Shire cafe experience Start on the right side of EP wall. Tricky start to gain flake and up to the right on pockets, then up on jugs. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	15	Sport 15m	Sebastian Sakowicz 5 days ago First route after hernia op. Didn't really trust much of the rock. Matt Tranter 1 years ago Best of the three warm ups I think. Pretty good
2	Easy Pickings The lefthand route on the first wall leading leftward at the arete to anchors up high. FA: Rod Young, 2011	14	Sport 15m	Matt Tranter 1 years ago Short but flows well. Neil Monteith 1 years ago The start holds felt very portable. I'm not a fan of the black rock around here.
3	Easy Peasy As for 'Easy Pickings', then straight up to anchors. FA: Rod Young, 2011	14	Sport 10m	Matt Tranter 1 years ago Great warm up route. John Lattanzio 1 years ago Not bad.
4	Take Me I'm Yours Starts at the crack/corner 4m left of Easy Pickings, under the overhang. An awkward start followed by a rest. Up to the roof then punch out right and on to jugs and an easy wall. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	24	Sport 15m , 8	Ben Jenga 9 months ago I kind of went for the pre first ascent flash, didn't weight the anchors but I will take the tick... John Lattanzio 9 months ago Finally got the right sequence, thanx Ben.
5	Project Glenn Jones Start around the corner from EP at the right hand crack under the roof. FA: Glenn Jones,		Sport Project
6	Girlie Action Start at the base of the slender wall left of the overhang. Climb the leaning arete. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	18	Sport 12m , 7	Sebastian Sakowicz 5 days ago Dodgy start then its very good after that. Jason Lammers 9 months ago yeah pretty good.
7	Thick and Thirsty Start as per GA, then climb the left side of the wall. Climbs better than it looks. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	17	Sport 12m , 7	Sebastian Sakowicz 5 days ago Again dodgy start then its good but abit run out near the top with the other wall sort of behind ... Matt Tranter 1 years ago Hey John, did you run out of bolts before the top? Hard bottom and worrysome top.
8	The United Nations Slab leading to small roof with the crux at the main overlap. Start 3 metres further left from Thick and Thirsty at the large up rooted tree. FA: Matt Tranter, 2011	18	Sport 12m , 7	Sebastian Sakowicz 5 days ago This felt hard for 18. Very good climbing though. Jason Lammers 12 months ago Why does this stop half way up the route ? Needs extending to the top.
9	Flame then Fire Up flake to belay on party ledge or continue straight through to next pitch; 4RB to DRB LO - 12m 14 Punch overlaps of steepness past Perma draw on perfect grey stuff - airy finish; 5RB to DRB LO - 10m 21 Start at the obvious flake line next to the tree stump, 15 metres left of 'The United Nations' You can do this in one with no drag however it's more social to belay on the big ledge. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011	21	Sport 22m , 9	Matt Tranter 1 years ago Great top pitch. Exposed roof pulling with a spicy finnish. 2nd ascent.

1.5.4. Metalloid Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: A compact little wall about 50m past the Easy Pickings Walls and over a little rise about 15m right of the obvious Rare Earth Buttress, capped by an obvious triangular pointy roof.
Approach:: After the descent gully walk right (looking out) past Easy Pickings Walls and a vertical wall to the narrow Metalloid Wall with a righthand arete, and Rare Earth buttress in the background to the left.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	No Show Start 4m left of Spare a Thought at crackline. Follow the crackline (the flake is solid, believe it or not) and on through the steepening to anchors. Will be desperatly hard after rain of if seeping. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	17	Sport 11m , 7	John Lattanzio 1 years ago OK.Harder if wet or seeping.
2	Suffer in Silence Start 2m left of Spare a Thought. The line diagonally leftward, through a roof and onward to anchors. The top seeps after heavy rain, pointless getting on it then. An engaging sequence at the start leads to easier climbing taking full advantage of the rest midway, then the roof to the anchors. Resist the urge to campus off the flake in the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	22	Sport 12m , 8	Jason Lammers 9 months ago Nice and easy today Neil Monteith 9 months ago Good fun. Crispy crimps down low and fun jugs up high. Flakes felt a little creaky. More glue req...
3	Spare a Thought Starts at the obvious crack 4m left of the right hand end of the wall. Up crack then veer right at the steepening then back to the crack. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	21	Sport 12m , 7	Ben Jenga 9 months ago Finger locking fun. A bit stiff at 21 but lots of fun. Stephen Hawkshaw 12 months ago Fun crack and roof
4	Brazen Start a few meters right of Spare a Thought.. Up the steep slab with a hard, bouldery start, through the bulge and on to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	23	Sport 12m , 8	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Hard start with ground fall potential, will add bolt, good climbing though.
5	Shits and Giggles Start at arete at per TT, then up leftwards on micro crimps to break. Heave onto wall and up to anchors. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	24	Sport 15m	John Lattanzio 9 months ago Cool little route. Jason Lammers 12 months ago Nice sequences down low. Should be OK when fresh ! 2 shots at EOTD
6	Tickles on Tour Start 5m right of B at blunt arete. (STAY OFF THIS ROUTE UNTIL SOME SUSPECT AND DANGEROUSE BLOCKS HAVE BEEN REMOVED) Hard start, then easier the higher you get. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	21	Sport Project 22m , 7	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Not as bad as Matt suggests,the business is over down low, the top half is intimidating and sandy... Matt Tranter 1 years ago Sandy? Intimidating? Come on boys, the top is bloody held together by faith and muck - suggest th...

1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress 19 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the Easy Pickings Walls to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high Rare Earth Buttress. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.
Approach:© (wogdog): Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the 'Easy Pickings Walls' to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high 'Rare Earth Buttress'. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Where Eagles Dare A tricky traddy start guards an easy and juggy wall. 1st 3 RBs on RE and then straight up. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	20	Sport 18m	Jason Lammers 9 months ago That big eagle did not like me :-(
2	Rare Earth The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors. FA: Rod Young, 2011	21	Sport 20m	Jason Lammers 9 months ago Got a little lost at the start. Nice and airy Ben Jenga 9 months ago Great looking climb pity it doesn't climb as good.
3	Bundy Project Start as per RE and then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors. FA: Project - Jason Lammers,		Sport Project 15m
4	Violently Silence Me Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof.	21	Sport 14m , 7	Sebastian Sakowicz 7 weeks ago Lacked abit of commitment. Classic Neil Monteith 1 years ago Added new direct finish which is rad.
5	Lithium Ion Direct The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3.	22	Sport 14m	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Bouldery start that might skin your shin.
6	Lithium Ion Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof.	20	Sport 15m , 7	Jason Lammers 7 weeks ago best on this wall Sebastian Sakowicz 7 weeks ago One hardish move up high.
7	Blood Sweat Steel Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face. FA: Neil Monteith,	23	Sport 16m , 8	Ben Jenga 9 months ago One of the better climbs I did today. Good start, easy middle, great top steep moves. Vanessa Wills 1 years ago need to keep those feet on better....
8	Unobtainium Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors.	21	Sport 14m	Jason Lammers 7 weeks ago compact ! Matt Tranter 1 years ago Hard final clip. Balancy and thin bottom. Good route
9	The Gold Lead Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish.	18	Sport 14m , 7	Jason Lammers 7 weeks ago No way 18, the crack is great ! But the traverse under roof is hard and awkward.. Sebastian Sakowicz 7 weeks ago 2nd shot. Man you got to work for 18 these days.
10	Just add gold Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors. FFA: Ben JengA.,	20	Sport 7	Ben Jenga 9 months ago Cool corner climbing to a long reach.
11	Nickel Metal Hydride Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors.	22	Sport 12m , 6	John Lattanzio 8 months ago Great climb with a tricky crux. Ben Jenga 9 months ago Good little climb with some touch and go moments up high.
12	project (Pockets Of Yttrium) Starts around left of Nickel Metal Hydride left of rounded orange arete under roof. Start on ledge at ground level below obvious pockets. Climb pockets and wall left of arete to trend up and left towards crack. Up and through crack and bulge to double anchors up left. (first 3 bolts and last bolt & anchors in so far.)		Sport Project 18m
13	project 4 RE Climb the first bolts of 2RE up pockets, move left and go across ledge left to double anchors. Belay here. The thin wall to roof and out pocket and roof heading rightwards to anchors over the lip. (2 more bolts to be added in thin wall.).		Sport Project 18m
14	project 3 RE Starts right of Leper Messiah, but down at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, unfortunately forced a bit left into LP for a couple of moves, up to roof and out roof rightward, up wall to anchors.		Sport Project 20m
15	Leper Messiah Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop. FA: Rod Young, 2011	22	Sport 16m	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Great technical climbing, hard onsight. Neil Monteith 1 years ago When it seems impossible traverse RIGHT! 2nd shot after finding the secret hold.
16	Good Strontium Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall. FA: Rod Young, 2011	20	Sport 20m	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Quite stiff through the roof
17	Promethium Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff. FA: Rod Young, 2011	18	Sport 15m	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Good climbing, careful at the second bolt.
18	Project - Rod Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route.		Unknown 15m
19	Hard Project Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish.		Unknown 12m

1.5.6. Quality Junk area 2 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The area around the slightly overhung arete on the buttress left of Rare Earth Buttress.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Grey Streak (Glenn Jones Project) Start as for QJ, then move right and up the grey steak. FA: Project - Glenn,		Sport Project 18m
2		Quality Junk The overhung arete and wall. Scamble up to EZ start and ride the flake with a move about 2/3rds up. Watch that pump ! FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	23	Sport 18m , 7		Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Cliping 2nd bolt had me sweating scared. Then quite nice pump with one more tricky quickdraw to p... Neil Monteith 1 years ago An epic pump but the rock quality is pretty terrible. Lots of sandy slopers and snappy edges.

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Grey Streak (Glenn Jones Project)

Start as for QJ, then move right and up the grey steak.

FA: Project - Glenn,

Sport Project 18m

Quality Junk

The overhung arete and wall. Scamble up to EZ start and ride the flake with a move about 2/3rds up. Watch that pump !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Sport 18m , 7

Vanessa Wills 12 months ago

Cliping 2nd bolt had me sweating scared. Then quite nice pump with one more tricky quickdraw to p...

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

An epic pump but the rock quality is pretty terrible. Lots of sandy slopers and snappy edges.

1.5.7. Diamond Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Description:: Awesome light grey slabby wall capped by numerous small roofs.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Fools Gold Wall climbing up the black rock just right of the awesome grey/orange rock to anchors under a small overlap. FA: Rod Young, 2011	18	Sport 18m	Sebastian Sakowicz 7 weeks ago Hard start, the rock could be better down low. Not a great warm up if you climb within a grade or... Matt Tranter 1 years ago Hard and snappy start in the damp. Better at the top but not as nice rock as the others on this w...
2	Blood Diamond Awesome climbing up to high anchors just right of big roof. FA: Rod Young, 2011	20	Sport 20m	Sebastian Sakowicz 7 weeks ago Got abit lost at the crux. Found the holds after having a rest. Vanessa Wills 1 years ago Pleasant but not very memorable
3	Diamond Tipped Up flake and wall as for 'BD' to fourth bolt, move left and up awesome quality rock to anchors on bulge up high. (There is a 3m project out roof above to second anchors). FA: Rod Young, 2011	21	Sport 20m	Jason Lammers 9 months ago Great !!! old EOTD Dog. Jason Lammers 12 months ago EOTD Melt down at last draw..
4	Project - Diamond Tipped Extension		Sport Project
5	project 1 The route left of 'DT' , finishing out the thin crack in the roof to anchors up high and way out		Sport Project 23m
6	Hit The Motherlode (project) Starts up BD, crosses next two routes diagonally and across lefward to overlap. Over and up to 2m roof flake, out and up to anchors way out up high!		Sport Project 25m

1.5.8. Nugget Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: 50m left of Diamond Wall after passing a cave.
Approach:© (nmonteith): 50m left of 'Diamond Wall', just left of giant cave.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	The Hand of Faith Start as for The Welcome Stranger. Up corner, at the second bolt break right and up wall to anchors. FA: Neil Montieth, 2011	22	Sport 15m , 7	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Fun steep climbing. Top is a bit grozzly.
2	The Welcome Stranger Start in the overhanging corner. Up corner until it fades then left to nugget feature. FA: Neil Montieth, 2011	23	Sport 15m , 7	Neil Monteith 1 years ago Rad overhung corner. I hope the nugget hold stays put!
3	Atomic Fluffies The right hand of two white streaks that leads to a ramp. Stand on the cairn to get a start. Start off a little vegetated ledge. The sustained crux with an interesting sequence relents half way up to an engaging and awkward top section. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	24	Sport 18m , 11	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Great sustained climbing.
4	This one time, at Band Camp Stand on flake and reach over and clip the 1st bolt. Pull down hard and crank up wall to break. Have a rest and climb the sustained wall to the top. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	22	Sport 20m	Neil Monteith 9 months ago Good position - shame about the sandy rock. Jason Lammers 1 years ago Looks harder from the ground then it actually is. Rad wall climbing...
5	Fluffin the Muffin Start in the corner. Up the corner to a little ledge then up the wall. The bottom corner looks a little ordinary but worth doing for the business up top. Keeps you working for it. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	20	Sport 20m , 9	John Lattanzio 1 years ago The bottom is OK climbing and worth the effort for the top 10m of sustained climbing.
6	Who Let Fluffy Off the Chain Start 3m left of the corner at the crack. Follow crack then face to top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	16	Sport 9m , 7	John Lattanzio 1 years ago A good starter for this sector.

1.5.9. The Sluice Box 12 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:: This sector encompasses a number of walls and buttresses starting at a deep cleft/gully just past the sandy traverse under a roof with a fixed rope handline ( care needs to be taken here) and extends to just before you reach the waterfall. There is also an access route with rungs and a fixed rope about 15m left of This Wretched Life. This allows quick access to the top if you find yourself at this end of the crag at the end of the day.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Angelic Upstart Climbs the seam and face just left of the arete. Start 3m left of the gully. Climb through a little bit of ordinary rock to get to the gold. Up the seam and on to the technical slab and through to easier ground to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	23	Sport 18m , 9	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Sustained and tecnical climbing.
2	Whippersnapper Start as for Angelic Upstart. Takes the left line of bolts after the 3rd bolt of Angelic Upstart. Thin and technical climbing to the ledge (it's ok to step on the shrubbery) then easy to top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	21	Sport 20m , 10	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Great climbing.
3	Pavlovian Response Don't let the batman start put you off as the climbing is both exciting and technical. Start under the hanging corner/seam next to a small spotted gum. You'll need Batman's assistance and sports a couple of rungs to assist. Layback and bridge the steep corner/seam to the roof, launch right to the jugs, then on to the easier exposed arete to the anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	24	Sport 23m , 13	Neil Monteith 9 months ago Really great stemming and exciting traverse. Epic batman, stickclipping start loses a star though... John Lattanzio 1 years ago Great technical climbing if you like this style.
4	Rite of Passage Great climbing with the crux down low followed by easier and enjoyable climbing to the top. Start as for Moral Compass to the 2nd bolt. Traverse right and up to the obvious crack which is followed then up the easier wall to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	22	Sport 23m , 11	John Lattanzio 1 years ago The crux is over down low then an enjoyable climb to the top.
5	Moral Compass Ascends the attractive blank looking wall bounded on the right by twin cracks and on the left by a corner and large roof. Start off the block. Superb, thin and sustained climbing to the footledge is followed by a sustained easier jaunt to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	23	Sport 22m , 11	John Lattanzio 1 years ago One of the best at the crag, thin and sustained, lots of climbing in it.
6	Project Claw Starts at the little flake line near the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof.		Sport Project 22m
7	Project Wogdog The rightward leaning arete at the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof. Start directly under the arete.		Sport Project 19m , 10
8	This Wretched Life An unlikely looking face climb. Start at the obvious corner crack. Climb the easy crack to the ledge then step right and climb the technical face on fabulous rock. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	23	Sport 20m , 10	John Lattanzio 10 months ago A great technical climb with an easy intro.
9	Suck It Up Princess First route on a little buttress about 50m left of a green mossy slab. Start at the obvious little corner with a crack and flake. Climb the steep little crack and onward to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	20	Sport 9m , 6	Neil Monteith 9 months ago Tough little unit. Steeper than it looks. John Lattanzio 1 years ago Short and steep, quite good.
10	Princess Toughenup Start as for Suck It Up Princess. Thin climbing and funky footwork up the slightly overhung wall left of Suck It Up Princess. FA: John.Lattanzio, 2012	23	Sport 10m , 6	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Some great thin and sustained climbing.
11	Princess Marsh Fly Start 2m right of 'Lady of the Flies' at the flake seam. A bouldery start leads to sustained, technical climbing. FA: John Lattanzio, 2012	23	Sport 12m , 7	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Great sustained climbing on good rock.
12	Lady of the Flies Start at the base of the obvious flake around the corner 10m left of Suck it up Princess. Climb the flake and on to anchors. FA: Emma Richmond-Darvill, 2012	14	Sport 12m , 6	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Quite awkward in places.

1.6. The Gold Mine 59 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.474174, -35.061734

Description:

NB August 2011- The name of this crag was recently changed in response to a request from one of the original developers of the cliff.

Area originally discovered in 2006, but kept secret from the New Nowra crew until 2011. Since then plenty of new routes have been added, several of these are 30m long rope stretching classics. Awesome fine grained white/grey sandstone similar to some of the rock at Moonshine.

From Nowra: Continue along Braidwood road towards TJF.

Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.
1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.
1.2km: Take the next dirt road left. Drive thru open gate.
3.8km: Turn down the second road on right it should have a small "fire trail sign"
6.3km: Continue along this road until it finishes at the cliff top and the obvious parking area.

Walk 25 metres down the trail to cliff edge - directly out from the giant big dead tree is a rap anchor on a little ledge. Fix a line here or rap and pull a doubled rope here (it's 30m to the ground - a doubled 50m rope WILL NOT REACH). Simple's Wall is on your right, Monty's cave and the other climbing areas are on your left facing out.

Alternatively, to access the base of the cliff (without rap) walk toward the cliff and pick up a trail marked with yellow flagging leading to the left. After about 200m the trail leads you into a gully. Take care at the top of the gully due to loose earth and rotten rock. Trend leftward to reach the first set rungs to gain the terrace. Go right along the terrace, again take care though the sword grass and wet ground to reach the second set of rungs.

Once at the base of the cliff walk right (facing out), keeping as close to the cliff as possible, for about 50m to find a fixed rope. Scale this end traverse until you reach the base of a wall which is the start of the current development. The right hand route is Ocean Views. About 10 minutes walk from car.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From Nowra: Continue along Braidwood road towards TJF.

Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.
1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.
1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.
3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"
6.3km: Continue along this road until the road ends at the cliff top and the obvious parking area.

Walk 25 metres down the trail to cliff edge - directly out from the giant big dead tree is a rap anchor on a little ledge. Fix a line here or rap and pull a doubled rope here (it's 30m to the ground - a doubled 50m rope WILL NOT REACH). Simple's Wall is on your right, Monty's cave and the other climbing areas are on your left facing out.

1.6.1. 22000lbs area 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (bundybear): About 150m left of Simples Wall is this alcove. 'Access' is via two metal rungs and some old rope. Currently very unloved and base is thick with ferns.

	Grade	Style	Popularity
1	22000lbs of Thrust The Wall FA: , 2006	21	Sport 22m	. 5 years ago A little sandy at times.
2	Simple's Arete The Arete. Not sure if its been ticked ?? FA: Greg Wilson,		Sport 25m
3	Mystery Face - project? Orange face left of arête. Not sure if this has been done. Could be hard?		Sport 20m

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

22000lbs of Thrust

The Wall

FA: , 2006

Sport 22m

. 5 years ago

A little sandy at times.

Simple's Arete

The Arete. Not sure if its been ticked ??

FA: Greg Wilson,

Sport 25m

Mystery Face - project?

Orange face left of arête. Not sure if this has been done. Could be hard?

Sport 20m

1.6.2. Rick Roller's Rap in Area 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: More perfect steep rock. Rap 30m down in to cosy ledge. Shared start for several climbs. When ur finished climbing here, rap an extra 15 to the floor and get out as per normal.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Crash Test Dummies Off the Perm-a-legde, straight up! FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	23	Sport 20m
2	3D Disco Step off perm-a-ledge, over the void. Trending left along huge flake to gain corner, then jug thru overhanging area to head wall. Easiest and best route off the ledge. FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	20	Sport 20m	Rick Phillips 9 months ago Just an amazing cliff, you could not dream up a better climb Jason Lammers 9 months ago Ultra Mega ! Best route in the entire Stratosphere !! Awesome rock, awesome moves and nicely ex...
3	Six Pack Tummies (project Rick) Start: Off ledge and trend right at first bolt, very hard to gain roof holds FA: Rick phillips, 2000		Sport 20m
4	Pain and Pleasure (project Rick) Start: Follow 3D Disco and take lower traverse along roof flake FA: Rick Phillips, 2000		Sport 20m
5	Trash and Treasure (project Rick) Start: Follow 3D Disco and take higher traverse over roof FA: Rick Phillips, 2000		Sport 22m

1.6.3. Cafe Cruiser Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: The main wall at Simples. Rap down this wall for easy access to the rest of the crag
Approach:© (bundybear): This impressive white wall is located about 10m left of Monty's Cave and right under the carpark.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Drop Tongue As per Bromance, and keep moving left to obvious belay ledge. Camp out and battle the tougue and steepness on the second pitch. FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011	23	Sport Project 32m		Jason Lammers 1 years ago Worked all the moves, will send when fresh,
2	Black Butt (Bromance Direct) Direct start to 'Bromance' starting about 6m left of the rungs. Stick clip first bolt and batman up so you don't get your feet wet in the muddy start. Bouldery on pockets then jam up the hand crack to join into 'Bromance'. Alternatively, (for a more strenuous finish), head left and do the 2nd pitch of 'Drop Tongue'.	21	Sport 30m		John Lattanzio 8 months ago Did it without the batman, 22 maybe 23 if you strugle with cracks.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
3	Bromance Up CC for a few bolts and then move left and up thru the bulges to top FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	20	Sport 30m		John Lattanzio 8 months ago Great long routes on good rock, good one to warm up on. Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago Not a great warm up when you are not a pumper. Great climbing.
4	Café Cruiser Probably the best 20 in Nowra. Obvious start then up to the flake and jug your way to the top. FA: Simple Pilot, 2006	20	Sport 30m		Jason Lammers 8 months ago A but run out on the easy ground up high.. Ryan Whelan 2 years ago Run out
5	Sucked in Spartacus Off belay ledge, trend left two bolts then straight up on flakes till the over laps FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	21	Sport 25m , 12		Oliver Story 5 days ago Excellent. Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago Very pumpy and some of the rock quality on the slab lets it down.
6	You can't handle me Ruth Off belay ledge and takes the left line of bolts nearly straight up, climbing small flakes and pockets till jugs thru the mini roof FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	22	Sport 30m		Oliver Story 5 days ago Nice face, excellent steepness Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Off the dog list. Still hard and if didnt keep sanding up would be classic.
7	Short Sharp Explanation Off belay ledge the Right hand line of bolts nearly straight up, climbs the large flake and up thru the roof FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	24	Sport 25m		John Lattanzio 8 months ago Great climb, punchy roof sequence. Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Sequency through roof. Worked it out, just have to remember for next time.
8	Forest Stump Back down on the ground, furthest most right line of bolts up wall using underclings and small pockets, hard thru overhangs. FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	23	Sport 28m		Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago Great climbing with lots of rests. One of the best 23s at Nowra. About the same grade as speed bo... Jason Lammers 1 years ago 3 cruxes - 3 rests
9	97% Fern Free Up BP, till it gets easy then trend left up to crimps and 3 more RB and up to finish on FS anchor. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	23	Sport 25m		Jason Lammers 1 years ago Climbs the best bit of BP, and then direct crimpy moves. Another option on this great wall.
10	Bumpin' Peepees Start 2m right of ST. Bouldery to gain the flake, then up the slabby stuff and into the steeper stuff to finish with a jug haul. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	21	Sport 23m , 11		John Lattanzio 2 years ago First ascent. Bouldery start might be a stopper. Another crux up high.

1.6.4. Monty's Cave 4 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Huge 30m+ high cave

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Matts Project Directly up thru the massive steepness. Stay Off, some bolts not glued yet.		Sport Project 25m
2	Blindworm (Neil's project) Neils project ! Stay off ! Big time steepness.		Sport Project 30m	Neil Monteith 2 years ago Two shots today. Hot tip - don't try and warm up on this first thing. All moves done bar one.
3	Project - Matt Up slab in middle of wall, then thru the massive steepness. FA: Matt Pascoe, 2000		Sport 25m
4	Remorseless Climbs the left side of the obvious arete at the right end of Monty's Cave starting left of the corner to a ledge right of the chimney. Awkward start is overcome by bridging of the tree to a rest, thin face climbing on good holds leads to the arete. FA: John Lattanzio, 2013	21	Sport 15m , 9	John Lattanzio 7 weeks ago A great little climb that will keep you working all the way.

1.6.5. Fernville 12 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey): Between Monty's big cave and 'Wasp in the Willows' area. Just look for the sea of ferns and the pockets. Awesome bullet hard rock.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Ugly Duckling Start at the tiny alcove 6m right of the left end of the grey wall. Up the steep flake system, using the staples at the start to keep your feet dry and trying to avoid the seep. Some awsome barndoor moves to gain the upper flake then steep wall to anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	25	Sport 15m , 9		John Lattanzio 1 years ago Despite the ugly seep it actually climbs quite well with some committing barndoor moves, quite su...
2	Pleasure Spiked With Pain Start in the middle of the grey wall. A bouldery sequence leads to sustained climbing which relents at half height to a pleasurable jaunt above. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	24	Sport 25m , 12		John Lattanzio 1 years ago Good long route with the dificulies down low. Adam Bramwell 1 years ago Interesting first few moves as a boulders problem to the third bolt
3	Waste of Sin Start at the right hand end of the grey wall under the arching overlap feature. Thin and technical down low, engaging climbing above. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	22	Sport 15m , 8		Jason Lammers 7 weeks ago Fernie Holds are Rad John Lattanzio 2 years ago Good adition to this area.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
4	Very Thick Piece of Toast Up the left hand side of the wall. Thin and Techo ! FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	25	Sport 15m , 9		Jason Lammers 7 months ago Good and techo. Need to be fresh for this fingery unit. 2 shots at EOD Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago 2 shots still managed to stuff it up. 18/7/11 2 shots, struggled abit on this, bit on the thin si...
5	Tecktonik 2m right of VTPoT. Up on little pockets. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	24	Sport 14m		Vanessa Wills 1 years ago RUined the onsight spree- second go. IF it was longer it would be classic, but my fingers were gl... Jason Smith 1 years ago Cool pockets - fingers were burning from the cold
6	Pocket Shot Start as for WtBF, vere leftwards at 2nd bolt to nice flake and follow the awesome pockets. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	23	Sport 16m , 6		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Had a fair go at this one, helped that i just belayed Bundy on it.. Not over until the anchors ar... Jason Lammers 7 months ago I just love all the routes on this wall.
7	What's this button for? One of the orginal lines by Simple. Up the pockets to lower offs under to roof. FA: Simple, 2006	22	Sport 15m		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Funky climb again on the best rock around, swinging between pockets Rick Phillips 7 months ago Funky climb again on the best rock around, swinging between pockets
8	Just Desserts are Not Slimming Start up the boulder to clip first bolt then jump on wall and blast out thru the roof. FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	25	Sport 20m		Jason Lammers 8 months ago Probably the last tick for Nowra in 2012. Its getting too warm. John Lattanzio 8 months ago Only 24, some tricky, sequencey moves, the roof is great too.
9	Resurrection Up the fallen boulder clipping bolt on left then on wall crimping like a Banshee. FA: Gilles Bonin, 2011	21	Sport 12m		Neil Monteith 9 months ago Not the easiest 21! Quite thin and technical - hard to work out what is a hold and what isn't wit... John Lattanzio 1 years ago Quite technical crux.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
10	Caught Napping Up block in corner then straight up wall to anchors just right of roof. FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011	21	Sport 15m		Dubravka Sakowicz 11 months ago 1st shot today, very nice. 17/1/12 Very nice climbing with a couple of hard bits for me. Should b... Arthur Schultz 1 years ago Almost ticked it with no forearms left, can't wait for another go
11	Cover Boy Up boulder in corner clipping bolt as you go and following diagonal crack right. FA: Jesse Lomas, 2006	23	Sport 16m		Scott Forrester 1 years ago Great finger crack. Seems easy for the grade. Tim Haasnoot 1 years ago Only 21, thin crack climbing, anchors at last bolt would be nicer. Great wall.
12	Powder Burns Direct Killer start, then move right to the cool small pockets getting easier the higher you climb. Extended by a few bolts and new lower offs added by Jason Lammers in 2011. FA: , 2006	25	Sport 20m		Neil Monteith 9 months ago First move is desperate - any ideas? Rest was rad and very sustained. Felt solid 25 to me. Arthur Schultz 1 years ago Waaaaayyy too hard, please downgrade all my first ascents by 2 grades... Awesome route though

1.6.6. Wasp in the Willows 14 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: Great rock and friendly grades with lots of bolts will ensure this area is popular with the masses. Most routes stay dry in the light rain.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Zis is KAOS Start at the crack at left end of the wall.Up the easy crack and pull the scoopy bulge to the anchors. FA: Jon Porter, 2011	17	Sport 15m , 7		Rob Knight 6 months ago Very nice - kept powering through the steepness to the chains. Better than it looks. Vanessa Wills 1 years ago This wasnt a friendly grade, harder than wasp
2	Snitch Start 1m right of Zis is KAOS. Thin and technical climbing with a burly finish. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	24	Sport 13m , 7		John Lattanzio 1 years ago Great technical climbing
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
3	After the Rapture This one was done on the day the world was supposed to end.Start 3m left of BotB. Bulging wall which is technical and sustained. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	23	Sport 15m , 8		Rick Phillips 8 months ago One of those onsights with information coming from everyone so it all cancels out...Good climbing Dubravka Sakowicz 11 months ago One shot on top rope. Did all the moves.
4	Battle of the Bulge 5m left of DF FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	22	Sport 15m , 6		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Great top section Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago Not bad should be able to do this.
5	Dragon Fly 2m left of WiW thin climbing at start leads to crux with great steep moves at top. FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	22	Sport 15m		duanne white 5 months ago nice. felt easy for 22 if you are short Rick Phillips 7 months ago A climb of all styles, slabs and jugs so take your pick
6	Truck stop Party Girl Just left of WiW, but crosses over mid height and thru the roof and up to jugs. FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011	22	Sport 22m		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Hardish down low if no beta Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago Couldn't do one move on the slab the rest was ok.
7	Wasp in the Willows Up the crack that stops at 5m, climbs the pockets and features left of crack thru the bulges. Way cool ! FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011	18	Sport 25m		Rob Knight 6 months ago Has a bit of everything - keeps you thinking until the anchors. Rick Phillips 7 months ago The warm up in this area.....Such a great climb
8	Skirt Wearing Nancyboy Rick named this climb after himself. Stand on big flake, tricky start and then nice crimping to anchors. FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	19	Sport 15m		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Apparently i wear a skirt and sometimes my squeals would confirm this, great if you want to gain ... Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago Had a little trouble getting on the wall.
9	Foreplay Choice of 2 starts, then up on nice rock. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	16	Sport 15m		Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago Found the start a little hard. Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago Kind of hard for 16 at the start not a nice warm up.
10	Espresso Right of F, up the crack then into the white streak. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	20	Sport 15m
11	Buckingham Bunga Start at the crack in the middle of the orange wall, and then up and thru the roof to finish on head wall. FA: Glenn Jones, 2011 FA: Glenn Jones, 2011	21	Sport 22m		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Holy crap i was scared on this climb Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago Bloody cracks, no idea what to do with them. The rest is good but the rock is not the best in pla...
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
12	After Dinner Sex Games The next crack along. Up crack and up into beaut easy rock to shared lower off with TBBC FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	18	Sport 18m		Rob Knight 6 months ago This was superb. Technical crak start, cruisy middle, then super fun top. Best section of climb... Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago Had trouble through the crack.
13	The Bunga Bunga Climb Shares 1st bolt with BJ, then up and left on awesome pockets with an iteresting finish. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	21	Sport 18m		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Good climb that has a lot more climbing than looks off the ground, could be tough if your a shorty Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Another long reach on the face...I need arm extensions
14	Beetle Juice 15m right of WiW near large boulder in corner. FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011	21	Sport 15m		Rick Phillips 7 months ago Such a fun climb, so very 3D Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Fricking long reach. Desperate in mid section

1.6.7. Sandpaper Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: 30m dead vertical wall - AWESOME !!!

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Hung out to dry On wall to right of BJ, lay off boulder until you can stand on top then face climb to the top. FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	17	Sport 25m	Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago Very nice climbing. Arthur Schultz 1 years ago First route of the day, great way to start
2	Fair weather trainer Up 'Sandpaper Sally' for 3 bolts then, lean out left on big sidepull and up the long wall. Sustained ! FA: Jason Lammers, 2012	22	Sport 26m	Rick Phillips 7 months ago 99.9 percent done... were we pumped or just cold????? Rick Phillips 7 months ago 99.9 percent done... were we pumped or just cold?????
3	Sandpaper Sally Starts in the small seam and follows till it blanks out, take a rest in the cave then up the awesome long headwall. FA: Simple Pilot, 2006	18	Sport 24m	Vanessa Wills 12 months ago The others found this fingery. I thought it was fine. Adam Bramwell 1 years ago Decent continuous climbing
4	Air Active As per SS, then step right over cave and up. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011	20	Sport 25m	Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago Nice and long. Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago Pumpy.
5	Ocean Views Up SS and at first bolt take the right hand line up the middle of wall. FA: Rick Phillips, 2011	19	Sport 28m	Vanessa Wills 12 months ago Had to engage brain. Hazy to the ocean John Lattanzio 2 years ago Tricky crux and a little intimidating.

1.6.8. Decent Gully Walls 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Description:: Shortish walls near the walk down rungs. Nothing bolted here yet.
Approach:© (bundybear): From the carpark walk about 200m east (left when standing on the top of the cliff looking at the view). Follow a few yellow tape markers and a well worn track to a steep loose descent gully. Down this for a 10m then left along ledge system below short cliff to first set of rungs.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Rock Dodgin Lawn Bowlin Granny First route on the descent of the gully. Up via 3 bolts trending onto wall between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Ok just a bit gritty. FA: Glenn Jones, 2011	15	Sport 6m , 5
2	Forlorn Bowls Start on ledge above upper set of rungs on the descent. Up the right facing flake. FA: Bob Macmillan, 2011	17	Sport 14m , 6
3	Thin Edge of the Wedge Nice warmup. Thin crack with lots of jugs on grey wall about 3m right of access rungs.	16	Sport 13m , 5	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Nice warm up, gives a little pump. Neil Monteith 1 years ago Good little warmup
4	Token 1m left of Thin Edge of the Wedge at small corner with hand crack up left side. Up corner for four metres to ledge then up juggy face.	15	Sport 13m , 4	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Cruisy with a tricky bit. Neil Monteith 1 years ago Start is a bit sandy - top is cool

1.6.8.1. Wringer Wall 2 routes in Feature

Summary:: All Sport
Description:: A steep orange wall located between the two sets of rungs, above the rope handrail, on the decent.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Through the Wringer Leftward diagonal line starting a few meters before the rope handrail, finishing through a little roof. Some nice slabbing then burly moves through the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	21	Sport Project 15m , 8		John Lattanzio 1 years ago Harder tnan it looks.
2		Wrung Out (Project Wogdog) Start mid way along the rope handrail. Thrugh black rock to crack and scooped bulge.		Sport Project 14m , 10

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Through the Wringer

Leftward diagonal line starting a few meters before the rope handrail, finishing through a little roof. Some nice slabbing then burly moves through the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

Sport Project 15m , 8

John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Harder tnan it looks.

Wrung Out (Project Wogdog)

Start mid way along the rope handrail. Thrugh black rock to crack and scooped bulge.

Sport Project 14m , 10

1.7. Capricornia 11 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Description:: Named after the rather large heard of goats milling around the top when the cliff was discovered. About 500m of cliffline offering a variety of styles of climbing,split by an easy access gully, which divides the cliff into a northern and southern sector.

1.7.1. Southern Sector 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Description:: This crag faces southwest and is suitable for the warmer months. It features steep grey and orange walls, some of which are completely devoid of holds for a 3m section. There are some corners more akin to granite. Location: From the carpark walk right along the cliff top until a second,easier gully is reached (the first gully requires a batman style decent/ascent via fixed rope). At the bottom turn left and follow a vague track until you reach the first gully. The routes start here.
Approach:© (wogdog): From the carpark walk right along the cliff top until a second,easier gully is reached (the first gully requires a batman style decent/ascent via fixed rope). At the bottom turn left and follow a vague track until you reach the first gully. The routes start here.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Project Wogdog A The left hand of two lines in the gully.		Sport Project 13m , 7
2	Bleat or Retreat Steep and technical climbing up a series of flakes. The right hand of two lines in the first(hard) descent gully FA: Glenn Jones, 2011	21	Sport 9m , 5	John Lattanzio 1 years ago Hard and techo for the grade.
3	Face the Music Only half the route is done to a set of anchors before the real dificulties start. The rest of the route is still a project. Start at the bottom of a left leading ramp/crack. Up the ramp to the anchors. Something to loosen up on. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	13	Sport 12m , 6
4	Project Wogdog B The wall and arete above the cave right of Face the Music. Start as for FTM.		Sport Project 18m , 9
5	Imaginary Friends Start 4m right of FTM at the obvious corner crack. One of a number of quality crack routes in the region. Bridge and jamb your way to the anchors. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	17	Sport 18m , 9
6	Pumped Bumpkin (Project Glenn Jones) The left hand line through a series of scoops and caves. Start about 20m right of IF under the savagly overhanging grey wall.		Sport Project 20m
7	Project Glenn Jones Right hand line in the overhanging grey wall.		Sport Project
8	Project Wogdog C Follows the outstanding arete at the right end of the slab. Start off the block at the right end of the black slab.		Sport Project 14m
9	Route of All Evil(Project Wogdog D) Start at the base of the stunning corner crack.	***	Sport Project 15m , 11
10	Panache The classic flake line capped by a large roof. Start off the block at the base of the slab 10m right of ROAE. Climb the slab to gain the flake. Flamboyant laybacking leads to the traverse under the roof. FA: John Lattanzio, 2011	17	Sport 20m , 10
11	Argy Bargy (Project Wogdog) The rightward diagonal leading to a slabby open book corner on awesome rock up high. Start 10m right of Panache.	***	Sport Project 20m

1.7.2. Northern Sector 0 routes in Sector

Description:: A more broken cliffline, with potential for easier lines as well as the hard ones. Tends to be more choss here but routes should clean up well. Cliff faces north making a good winter location. Location: At the easy descent gully keep going right.

1.8. Moonshine 49 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:: Comprising of Moonshine, above the car park and The Dark Side Below. Sections of great rock and lots of potential for routes on numerous small butresses. Most routes have a band of Choss so take care.
Approach:© (ropedonkey): On your way to Tianjara falls.

Look for the 620 sign just past the intersection of Braidwood and Turpentine Roads. Turn off to the right about 1km after the 620 sign into a gated (open) road. Follow this to the obvious car park just b4 the road goes to to 4WD heaven.

Walk down the crazy 4WD track 300 mtrs for moonshine or look right for small cairn and follow this for 5 min for Darkside, et al.

Awesome "Nowra" style climbing! Terrific excursion, if you want to get away from the crowds..

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620 ==> 1

1.8.1. Lunar Wall 15 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	space cadet trickier slab than it looks FA: rick phillips,	18	Sport 12m	Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago Not bad a little short. Boyd Robinson 2 years ago awhward, bit of a sandbag
2	lunar-tick starts up the flake under the roof and traverses out right FA: rick phillips,	19	Sport 18m	Gareth Downey 6 months ago hard under roof if you are big - very bunched Dubravka Sakowicz 12 months ago Stuffed around on the slab.
3	Asteroids Arete - PROJECT Up the tricky arete. Start: About 3m right of corner at 'Arete' FA: Jason Lammers, 2000		Sport
4	asteroids in uranus start up cosmic thing and at second bolt trend left FA: rick phillips,	22	Sport 18m	Dubravka Sakowicz 12 months ago Could not cross into the pocket and hold on. Only really had one shot at the move did the rest. Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago 2nd shot, hard to read but not bad.
5	my favourite martian start up cosmic thing and at 5th bolt finish up asteroids FA: rick phillips,	19	Sport 18m	Dubravka Sakowicz 12 months ago Nice link up. John Lattanzio 3 years ago Another pumper for this area
6	cosmic thing start up corner loaded with pockets and laybacks a little pumpier than you will expect FA: rick phillips,	19	Sport 18m	Dubravka Sakowicz 12 months ago Great. Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago Excellent climbing very nice rock and moves.
7	beam me up scotty same start as cosmic, launch straight into the crux going around bulge, take a grade off if you keep going up cosmic and traverse around the crux (give it a go as its well protected) Start: start up "cosmic thing" and take the line of bolts to the right at 3rd bolt FA: rick phillips,	22	Sport 18m , 10	Dubravka Sakowicz 12 months ago Could not do the one hard move, did the rest. Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago 2nd shot, I am bad a reading routes. Bit of one move wonder.
8	beam me up scotty "direct start" if you dont like crimps keep going up "cosmic thing" to start the climb. This will turn the climb into a hard 23 instead of the easier 23 it is today. Joins the climb just under the existing crux...so now your pumped for the throw!! Start: two mtrs to the right of cosmic thing FA: rick phillips,	23	Sport 18m	Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago 2nd shot. Much better direct, much more consistant. David O'Donnell 3 years ago just call it beam me up scotty...proper start... makes the other "variant" rather redundant.
9	Hill Project Great climbing I think cos i haven't done it yet. Start: Same place as BMUSD until i sought out the rught hand start.		Sport 23m
10	My Bolts My Climb Borderline 25 if you don't camp in the slot for days on end. The second half is nearly as hard as the first so keep the pump happening. Start: Two meters right of BMUSDS. FA: Sir Graham Hill,	24	Sport 18m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago Back to the old days, falling off above the last bolt... David O'Donnell 3 years ago way bitch'n
11	Wot u Got Gets Me Hot Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	23	Sport 20m , 12	John Lattanzio 2 years ago Classic climbing all the way.
12	supernova stick clip first bolt, then climbs pockets to roof, thug your way up that to crux around bulge.. FA: rick phillips,	24	Sport 23m	rick phillips would be a super climb if the batman start could be avoided (which it cant) way worth doing!! ext...
13	You Snooze You Lose (Project Rick) Not bolted yet. Starts just right of dirty crack and climbs face to the top of the cliff.		Unknown 17m
14	Hill Stole My Route Short but sweet. 'Steep' start lunging for bomber pocket, then straight up on smaller polished pockets.	23	Sport 9m , 4
15	iClimb First bolt of 'Hill Stole My Route', then right and up bigger but steeper pockets. Single giant U lower-off.	24	Sport 9m , 4

1.8.2. Dark Side 34 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:: A place for everyone as it has a bit of everything. Similar rock and aspect as the "grotto". Location: From the carpark look north and locate a small cairn. Follow the faint track fifty mtrs ahead and at the next cairn drop down a very easy gully, past a fallen big dead tree to first small cliff (Fat Wog Wall). It's less than five minutes to the first climb from the car! Climbs listed right to left.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Chk Chk Boom EZ warm up route on the way in Start: First climb you come to after turning right once down the easy gully FA: The Major,	20	Sport 8m
2	Fully Sick Mate FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	18	Unknown 8m	John Lattanzio 3 years ago bouldery John Lattanzio 3 years ago Sandbag for 18, more like 22.
3	Fat Wog The bouldery right line to shared lower off. Cool feature... Start: On the walk in. FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	21	Sport 8m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago FA John Lattanzio 4 years ago better and more continuous than SW.
4	Skninny Wog Up bulging wall on good holds, to shared lower off with FB. Start: Left of 'Fat Wog' FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	19	Sport 8m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago FA John Lattanzio 4 years ago nice crux move
5	under the milky way bit of a tough start until it gets chalk over the obvious holds, starting off the ground makes it a true 19.. may pay to clip first bolt off the block then step down to ground FA: rick phillips,	18	Sport 15m	Boyd Robinson 2 years ago Sandbag but good Sebastian Sakowicz 2 years ago Not bad.
6	southern cross stick clip first bolt, its way up there as you would not be able to clip anything until you get to it..hard moves off the ground maybe 22 if you hate crimps then over bulge to get established on headwall, great laybacking all the way to the top..ps you dont need to pull on any of the conglomerate rocks at the very top! FA: rick phillips,	21	Sport 15m	Sebastian Sakowicz 2 years ago Hard first couple of moves then about 19 after that. Stuart Ecob 4 years ago fell on the start. tricky start, nice mantle.
7	YAKing Lines Up corner then thin headwall. Start: 2m left of GS in corner. FA: Adrian Child, 2009	21	Sport 18m	Matt Tranter 1 years ago Got it in the end. Spaced bolts and a nasty choss band but a good route. Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Bolting needs a rethink down low
8	Gravity Sucks Hard off the deck, with another crux at three quarter height FA: rick phillips,	22	Sport 15m	Matt Tranter 1 years ago Nice all the way. Glad of the rest on the Rick Philips Ledge rick phillips wow, make sure you nail the start or you wont have enough skin on your finger to have too many goes
9	Need Another Seven Astronauts start at right hand end of overhung cliff, work your way up to the small bulging roof and take your pick of the two options, if it seems hard take the other option FA: rick phillips,	20	Sport 20m	Dubravka Sakowicz 2 years ago Nice climbing. Sebastian Sakowicz 2 years ago easy 19. A good warm up.
10	quantam physics first few bolts of "nasa" then at roof hard moves to the left gets you on the headwall Start: same start as "nasa" but at roof, follow bolts to the left and up to anchors FA: oliver kerr,	23	Sport 20m	Sebastian Sakowicz 2 years ago Nice movement but not very sustained. Probably a little soft. David O'Donnell 4 years ago bolting makes it streno.
11	who is Mike Collins? short bouldery climb that may get extended thru the roof if it look like it will go Start: short climb that ends at the anchors under the roof FA: rick phillips,	19	Sport 9m	Sebastian Sakowicz 2 years ago Hard start, probably should have warmed up on the other 19. rick phillips bummer it does not go thru the roof, well it probably does but we are weaklings, has a fun couple...
12	Dark Star - Bundy's Roof Flake Project FA: Bundy,		Unknown 15m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago EOTD Recon
13	One small step for a YAK Hard start then tough moves around roof followed by easing head wall. Start: 3 mtrs left of "NASA" FA: rick phillips,	23	Sport 20m	Jason Smith 3 years ago Lucky it was ticked up! Adam Bramwell 4 years ago crag classic
14	YAKsative Battle up the undercling flake, bust thru the crimpy rooves, and up the head wall. Classic ! FA: Bundy, 2009	24	Sport 20m	Vanessa Wills 3 years ago one move is a little tricky Jason Smith 3 years ago Really good and quite sustained
15	Rock Star Hard start on great rock to break under the buldge. Muscle up, and finish up BB. Start: Directly under the arete. FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	25	Sport 20m	David O'Donnell 3 years ago rock stars play guitar hero;-) David O'Donnell 3 years ago rock stars play guitar hero;-)
16	Big Bang Theory Starts off block at left hand end of wall, follow right trending bolts to arete, hoick yourself over bulge and finish up headwall. FA: rick phillips,	24	Sport 20m	Vanessa Wills 3 years ago Fell off at the roof 4 attempts in a row then did the move each time:( Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Second go, broke a massive low footer on the first hit out. Some good moves on this thing, makes...
17	Greenstick Up the slab and into the roof 3 Metre left of BBT. FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009	12	Sport 10m , 4	Simon Vaughan 3 years ago Slightly engaging at the start Matt Tranter 3 years ago It gives us mortals a warm up.
18	The Rocky Horror Show Up crack just right of nice grey slab trend left to Hitchikers anchors. Trad. 2 metres right of Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2011	15	Trad 18m
19	hitch hikers guide to the galaxy Chimney start then step right across explodo conglomerate to easy wall finish. Start: Starts 50 mtrs left of 'Big Bang Theory' at next major buttress. FA: daryl the dude jones,	16	Sport 20m	Daniel Mackey 3 years ago freezing morning + sharp pebbles = sore fingers! rick phillips fun climb, climbs totally different to all the other climbs in the area
20	Musical Distractions Direct A more sustained version and a good warm-up. Jug over undercut start for two bolts to join into the original. Start: 10m left of Hitchikers'	17	Sport 9m , 4
21	Distractions Direct	15	Unknown 10m
22	Burning Palms Delicate start up flake/pockets/crimps. Slab move to break. Over bulge & left to ramble up headwall. Five foot flyer to finish ! FA: Adrian Child, 2010	24	Sport 18m
23	Palmasutra A tough little number. Reachy pockets to big break. Crimp through crux bulge to awesome pocketed headwall. FA: N Monteith,	24	Sport 18m , 6	Vanessa Wills 3 years ago Nice bottom, hard off ledge $ me. 2nd go.
24	Keyboard Cat Up flake for five metres then right to break, punch through bulge on crimps then super pockets to top. Start: The right route starting at big left facing flake.	23	Sport 16m , 6
25	Psalm Pilot A fine little pumper. Start up 'Keyboard Cat' flake but follow it all the way left and over bulge to juggy finish. You can avoid the flake start by climbing direct up the easy stuff - knock off a grade and the stars.	21	Sport 16m , 6	Matt Tranter 3 years ago Hard first pulls. Good top out. Vanessa Wills 3 years ago quite pumpy
26	Fronds of the Earth 2m left of 'Psalm Pilot'. Face climbing start with a great spicy finish on mega pockets.	19	Sport 16m , 5	Matt Tranter 3 years ago Great slab climbing. Airy finish Vanessa Wills 3 years ago hope the crimps stay on
27	Wormhole The steep crack/seam behind the palm tree. FA: John Lattanzio, 2010	21	Sport 12m , 7
28	Hyperspace Juggy wall right of crack. Have a rest by the last bolt and launch into hyperspace to shared anchors with crack. FA: Vanessa Wills,	21	Sport 16m , 6	John Lattanzio 3 years ago contrived if you don't crack climb at the top Vanessa Wills 3 years ago clip the last bolt and launch up the flake
29	May the Schartz be with you Jam up the crack to lower-off anchor. FA: R . Weller and Vanessa Wills,	17	Trad 16m	Matt Tranter 3 years ago Great trad route at this sports climbing crag. Hopefully it will remain bolt free. Thruch and gr... Vanessa Wills 3 years ago nice hand jamming
30	Millenum Falcon The wall left of the crack, finishing at the top of the block. Trad like finish. Both hands on rail below anchor for full value	22	Sport 16m , 6	John Lattanzio 3 years ago could do with some cleaning Vanessa Wills 3 years ago really nice variety
31	Crab Nebula Start on blocks, clip first bolt and step out into finger crack. Up steeping wall past break	21	Sport 16m , 5	John Lattanzio 3 years ago way dirty, would be better if it were cleaned. Vanessa Wills 3 years ago tricky fingers then face
32	Dark Star - Bundy Project Up WiMC, then follow the roof flake thru the ceiling to jug at lip. Up small headwall to anchors. FA: Jason Lammers, 2000		Sport 16m
33	N1-H1 Bouldery climbing, lovin the power of the undercling. Start: 3 mtrs left of CC FA: Ricky "The Mayor" Phillips, 2009	18	Sport 8m
34	Musical Distractions 2m left of the direct. Juggy start heading right to thin reachy finish. This was Jacqui's first new route and first lead in two years!	15	Sport 9m , 4

1.9. Sunshine Sunny Side 21 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport
Long/Lat: 150.413315, -35.040291
Description:© (nmonteith): A long walk-in protects this impressive cliffline featuring one of the most unique sandstone walls in Australia - a cliff covered in two and three finger pockets in smooth white rock. Just like limestone! Because it bakes in the sun most of the day it's a winter only venue.
Approach:© (nmonteith): A lengthy 30 minute walk protects this area from mass development. Directions - drive 2.4km south-west on Turpentine Road (towards Nerriga) from intersection of Braidwood Rd and Turpentine Road. Turn right onto dirt road (quite a sharp ditch to navigate if in a 2WD). Follow this for 550m until you hit power-lines, turn left and follow rough 2WD powerlines road (ignore left turn 100m into this road) for 300m until road ends at first power-line tower (GPS -35.0463, 150.4226). On right side of carpark spot the coloured tape markers. Follow this well marked track cut through thick bush, left down into gully skirting rock wall on the right (5 minutes) , through thick bush, down into creek bed (10 minutes), up the other side, now follow as close as possible the top of the big cliff for ages, past small creek (20 minutes), and eventually the bush gets lighter and lighter. Finally you will reach the amazing lookout point where the cliff takes a sharp left turn (30 minutes). Walk left along the top of the cliff for another 100m (marked with pink tape as well). At the top of the secret descent gully is a big rock cairn consisting of three large flat rocks and lots of tape wrapped around a tree. Squeeze down hole into gully and turn left to find 'Faux Buoux' Wall about 100m along the base. On the return trip it's best to leave an hour before sunset to navigate the thick bush - or carry a GPS and torch. Getting lost out here would be a nightmare. Telstra seems to be the only mobile carrier that works.

1.9.1. Sector 1 - Descent Gully Area 1 route in Sector

Summary:
Description:: Mostly chossy extremes and minimal potential for routes. There is one good easy route bolted so far and probably not much more to come.
Approach:: At the bottom of the descent gully turn right (facing out) and spot the large right facing corner with a black slab on the right side. The corner is ringbolted.
Descent Notes:: Descend by lower-offs.

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Bunny Corner

Easy peasy. Right facing corner with a black slab on the right.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2012

Sport 17m , 5

Nathan Merton 9 months ago

OK climb. Looks like it has potential to be a multipitch to top out.

Ben Jenga 9 months ago

Pretty average climb with a high first bolt, not the best easy lead. Would be nice if it was exte...

1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:: A wall that features very unique (for sandstone) water polished pockets in immaculate rock. All routes here are fantastic quality, and many are rope stretching in length (bring a 60m rope). The sun hits the wall from around 10am so summer is out. Gale force winds howl in winter so bring something warm for belaying. GPS (-35.0403, 150.4129)

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
Hide
1	Blinded by the White Stay left. Maximizes the quality rock on this wall with a big girdle across the quality pocketed white rock. Follows the left line of bolts under the roof for a couple of metres, then over powerful rooflet and keep traversing left to final magic pockets to break and lower-off. Back clean or get someone to 2nd it. FA: Neil monteith,	25	Sport 25m , 12		. 8 months ago Pulled a rabbit out of the hat!! Bordering Mega. HARD.
2	The Ape Factor - PROJECT Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.		Sport 18m		Neil Monteith 11 months ago Hard moves!
3	Faux Buoux The best route here - a New 'Nowra' classic. Pockets of every variety from start to finish. Goes all the way to the top of the cliff. This is the middle line, which has a slight leftwards traverse once over the first rooflet. FA: Neil Monteith,	25	Sport 30m , 14		. 8 months ago Chess on the rock. Outstounding rock. Jason Smith 8 months ago Great Euro style pockets. Super hard first go, a bit easier when you know where you're going
4	When the Wind Blows Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way. FA: Neil Monteith,	24	Sport 30m , 12		Paul Thomson 9 months ago Dog-fest. I'm of two mind about this. Until the top roof the climb is a Megaclassic (despite the ... Will Monks 10 months ago A monster! Nanna naps between shots and coughing up a lung mid-send suggests that I'm not over my...
5	Swiss Cheese Easiest way up the mega pocketed wall - but still no cakewalk. Starts as for When the Wind Blows for two bolts then right past three bolts to join into Pocket Rocket for one bolt then finish out left through orange scoops and reachy finish bulge. Magnificent white undercling pockets as usual. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012	24	Sport 20m , 9		Neil Monteith 8 months ago Squeezing one more awesome pocketed route onto this wall. Super sequence of undercling pockets li...
6	Pocket Rocket Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route. FA: Neil Monteith,	25	Sport 20m , 9		Neil Monteith 11 months ago Self saucing sandbag. Nothing like being spanked on my own route. Tough crux move, perfect pockets.
7	OPEN PROJECT Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.		Sport 20m
8	Steal Some Steel Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor. Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket' FA: Neil Monteith,	24	Sport 15m , 6
9	Mini Water Holes Good warm-up climbing the first half of Water Holes and lowering off big U bolt just over the rooflet.	16	Sport 12m		Nathan Merton 9 months ago Loved the last move on this. Ben Jenga 9 months ago Great rock in the top half.
Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
10	Water Holes Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16. FA: Neil Monteith,	23	Sport 23m , 9
11	Delicious Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank. FA: Neil Monteith,	22	Sport 15m , 6		Paul Thomson 9 months ago Only really one hard move, and still soft for the grade. The climb gets more pleasant and interes... Ben Jenga 9 months ago Downgrade to 21.. Great slab route if you can crimp.
12	Lost for Profit Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock. Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree. FA: Neil Monteith,	19	Sport 18m , 8		Paul Thomson 9 months ago Can I call 3 bolts of new climbing (between the routes either side of it) an onsight? Really good... Vanessa Wills 11 months ago Neil told us this was 21 and it felt like it.
13	Sun Dew Small dark corner 2m right of Lost for Profit. At the big roof crack undercling desperately left to join into LfP for top half. Crack seeps after rain. FA: Neil Monteith,	20	Sport 20m , 9		Paul Thomson 9 months ago Fell on the mantle, half a metre from the anchors. Missed the crucial footer out left and fell t... Ben Jenga 9 months ago Bolted trad. This route felt heaps run out even when standing on the bolt. A bit of crapy rock do...
14	SunnySide Up 5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock. FA: Jason Lammers, 2010	22	Sport 13m , 5		. 8 months ago Bundy gold. Neil Monteith 8 months ago Repeat.
15	Heal and Toe Short and very steep rightwards leading line just right of SunnySide Up and finishing in little cave. Power. Stickclip first bolt. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012	23	Sport 10m , 5		Ben Jenga 9 months ago EOD attempt. A bit of jug swinging fun, felt pretty easy but just messed up the crux. Neil Monteith 10 months ago Short and powerful - typical Nowra explosion.

1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:: Immediately right of the Faux Buoux area is a massive cave with a low ceiling. Walk under this on a sandy shelf to the far right end where some actual climbable rock appears under the roof.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
Hide Hide
1	Kicking Heads Fun slab, roof and corner with nails hard undercut start. Deduct 5 grades if you pull on the first bolt. Start by teetering up giant cairn to grasp massive jug on lip of cave. Curse and thrash at lip then up pleasant polished slab to massive roof. Skirt left and around it past halfway anchor bolts (use these to clean the route). Up black jam crack corner to high anchors, Stick clipping the second bolt is recommend unless you want to give your belayer a kick in the head. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012	23	Sport 20m , 9	Neil Monteith 10 months ago Desperate undercut start which took me several tries to sort out - not helped that it was the las...
2	Forgot Me Knot Awesome powerful climbing. Undercut start to steep hanging pocketed arete to arrive under roof. Swing right with difficulty to jug and rap chain. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012	25	Sport 14m , 5	Neil Monteith 10 months ago First shot putting draws on. Kapow! I love every move on this bouldery little number Neil Monteith 10 months ago Awesome sustained power up steep arete. 5 shots today. Blew the last move three times in a row.
3	Forgot Me Knot Extension Thin technical climbing adding three more bolts to the original past the rap chain on the lip of the roof. Rad. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012	26	Sport 20m , 9	Neil Monteith 10 months ago Did not expect this to go so easily. Found crucial right crimp and CRUSHED it to reach good holds...

1.9.4. Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:© (nmonteith): Only one route and one project at present - both sharing the same start. Will see a lot more development in 2013 winter season! It's 100m right of 'Faux Buoux' wall, past the big cave and just after after very narrow ledge. Gorgeous 'Grampians' quality rock in the upper half. Shame that two chipped pockets were needed to make these routes possible.

Route

Grade

Style

Popularity

Selected ascents

Masterstroke

Starts on far right side of wall. Jam across horizontal then diagonally leftwards (some chossy sections of rock) to finish up sweet shallow heucos. Top half is gorgeous rock quality.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 20m , 10

Neil Monteith 9 months ago

The 2nd half of this route is super sweet! 2nd shot today - just.

Neil Monteith 10 months ago

The top of this route is simply stunning. The new hold is a master stroke. Did with one hang - sl...

Come Out Fighting

Start as for Masterstroke and at 5th bolt go straight up past chipped pocket to gorgeous finish on polished scoops. The top half is mega classic.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2012

Sport 18m , 9

. 8 months ago

Love it. Awesome crag.

Neil Monteith 8 months ago

Last climb of the day I came out fighting! Wicked powerful punches between good holds on amazing ...

1.10. Tianjara Falls 196 routes in Area

11 10 9 4 3 2 1

1 Bill James Testimonial Gully, 2 Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods, 3 Bag-Dad Wall, 4 Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall, 9 Drop bear wall, 10 Indian Head (north), 11 Black Snake Buttress

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and other styles
Long/Lat: 150.335041, -35.103770
Description:: Hard to believe that TJF was popular before Nowra or Mt Keira was even discovered. The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality is 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone, very similar to Thompsons Point.

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities!

Location: Tianjara Falls - just a bit past Nowra. Turn off Princess Highway as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for Tianjara Falls, its about 1km on your right after the road turns into dirt. Park in the massive obvious carpark. Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...

The The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from Nowra to Tianjara Falls for the benefit of the sports climbing community!,
Approach:© (dod): Tianjara Falls - just a bit past 'Nowra'. Turn off Princess 'Highway' as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for 'Tianjara Falls', its about 1km on your right after the road turns into dirt. Park in the massive obvious carpark. Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...

The The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from 'Nowra' to 'Tianjara Falls' for the benefit of the sports climbing community!, and is now a nifty 9 minutes from 'Nowra' @ 180kph in your turbo charged Subaru. There has been a noticeable police presence on this route since 2011.

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Big News Day A little steep and a little pumpy. Stick clip first bolt, over bulge and up flake then punchy crux leaving the horizontal break. Traverse right from bolt 5 then back left and up to anchors.	22	Sport 14m , 6

1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully 31 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Trad and ?
Long/Lat: 150.332215, -35.108163
Description:: Steeper and more featured than most of Tianjara. Quite long routes which start steep and juggy and finish on slabby crimps. Location: This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully
Approach:© (nmonteith): This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Project - Bundy (G6) The only climb on the first orange wall. Bouldery and Fun ! * Still a project * FA: Jason Lammers, 2000	**	Sport Project 10m , 5
2	History never repeats Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high. FA: Bill James, 1950	7	Trad 25m
3	Slab of Death Up the techo slab just left of JTP FA: Jason Lammers, 2010	19	Sport 16m
4	Just Think Pork Up then right into vertical crack, clipping 1000's of ring bolts to lower offs at 2/3 height. If your a keen trad dad continue up the easy crack to the top to new carrot and tree anchor. FA: G Hill, 2000	15	Sport 16m , 9
5	Grouple Girl Start left of GG and up. FA: Rod Young, 2000	18	Sport 18m	Johannes 12 weeks ago Nice moves on the first section. Should be cleaned by seconding. Matt Tranter 2 years ago Adventurous bolting and a mare to clean.
6	Grouple Guy Starts on the scoops to the left of the arete then up on great rock. Rebolted 2010 Start: In the sccops left of the arete/face FA: G Hill, 2000	15	Sport 15m
7	Grouple RHV Up TD for 2 bolts then climb around grey pillar and up GG to anchors. Still Needs extra bolt.. Aviods the crappy start on GG.	18	Sport 20m	Jason Lammers 2 years ago Just for Doddy, he lurves link ups..
8	Thriller Direct Rod's original line. Directly up left side of wall, thru overlap and easily to top. Would be handy with an extra bolt b/w the 4th and 5th. FA: Rod Young, 2010	22	Sport 18m	Jakob Kapelj 12 months ago Liked this climb, 4th to 5th was a good move for me but a bit run out on slab above overhang, alb... Jakob Kapelj 12 months ago Liked this climb, 4th to 5th was a good move for me but a bit run out on slab above overhang, alb...
9	Thriller All killer - no filler. A fun arete. Climb first two bolts of 'Driller', then monkey left across steep pockets to nice arete. Up this through bulge and finish up crimpy face.	22	Sport 20m , 7	Jason Lammers 1 years ago Committing moves ! rick phillips Very good climbing with a thought provoking move at mid height.
10	Driller Steep orange face that's dry in any weather, and overhangs about 3m. Steeply through start to big white pocket, then screw your finger into the dubious mono. Come back in two months after finger has healed and pull the move again with success. Finish through roof. Superb rock quality. Start: Starts 3m left of Rod's Roof.	24	Sport 16m , 6	rick phillips pumpy climb with a mind games finish
11	Rod's Roof Up crazy scoop on the suss jugs, with the rock getting better as you go. Then battle through the roof and doodle up slab to anchors. Start: Start on right side of raised rock platform. FA: Rod Young,	21	Unknown 25m	Ryan Whelan 4 years ago top was ok David O'Donnell 4 years ago I thought it good, despite some bad press... maybe 22 ??
12	Corona with Lemon A truly tried and tested favorite guaranteed to appease the taste buds. Starts on the far right side of the upper ledge. A little steep on horizontals.	18	Sport 30m	Johannes 12 weeks ago The crux just above the 3rd RB is actually harder than 18 (as long as you don't use the flake/are... Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago Great climb, but very committing at the end prior to the ring bolts due to the potential fall ont...
13	Peroni with Pizza An excellent mid week option!. will prove to be popular. Another long euro-enduro adventure at the grade. Most of these climbs are similar, but this is probably the best one. FA: Rod Young,	18	Sport 30m	Johannes 12 weeks ago Nice and long endurance style. Blew the onsight because I was wearing quite a big backpack. Can b... David O'Donnell 4 years ago awesome names.
14	Usurper Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile? Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area. FA: Bill James,	13	Trad 40m	Jakob Kapelj 8 months ago Great fun trad, pretty intimidating climbing over the void with sparse protection, but there are ... Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago My mate cut his head open when a jug snapped near the double rings. Should have been wearing a he...
15	Sol with Summer A great addition to the market. fully imported. Sweet on sundays after a recovery brunch.	17	Sport 30m	Phil Ward 2 years ago Great thugging up the washout Stephen Hawkshaw 3 years ago nice and long
16	Carlsberg's at the Cricket Does it get any better than that?.. recline the chair, sit back and enjoy the contest!	19	Sport 30m	Rob Barker 7 months ago some nice moves Phil Ward 2 years ago Sustained and great
17	Wombat Combat A variant start to the route left which fully utilises the orange rock. Look out as a 60 meter rope won't get you off this baby in one hit you will have to break the descent and rap again on FM anchors which are 23 meters off the ground. Start: As for Fricasse Maison. FA: G Hill, 2009	20	Unknown 35m	rick phillips The climbing is ok, the good part is its way long so you get some endurance under your belt.
18	Fricasse Maison A little tricky lower down but you will get used to the potential fall unless you take it. Start: At Wombat Combat under orange wall and three meters left of corner crack Triantithingy. FA: V Hill, 2009	21	Unknown 23m , 10	rick phillips great climb with a scary 3rd clip best to drop a long draw on it from the other climbs
19	Triantiwantigongalope The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names. Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure FA: G Hill, 1977	13	Trad 35m	John Wilson 3 years ago A tough and horrible unit and much harder than 13!
20	Crispin Licks Some holds are a little dirty but don't let that put you off. Generally its a pile of rubbish and i can't think of why i wasted seven bolts on it, only to say i liked the name string it would form with the climbs around it which are also rubbish. Start: Left side of orange cave like structure. Two meters right of crack in corner. FA: Hill,	20	Sport 12m , 7	Phil Ward 2 years ago Pretty average when compared with Chicken Lips
21	Chicken Lips Sustained little pumper with some choice little perfect pockets. Start: Route that goes up the centre of the orangy cave like structure, between two traddy corners. Scramble up loose stuff onto start ledge. FA: Neil Monteith, 2008	21	Sport 18m , 7	Matt Tranter 2 years ago Great route. Nice flowing start and just a little bit of spice through the roof. Phil Ward 2 years ago A great crux over the bulge
22	Pinch Grip Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10. Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner. FA: R Chunder G Hill, 1978	10	Trad 35m
23	Slippin Chicks All large items have been disposed of any further holds you rip off are your own fault. Start: Ledge just right of chicken lips. FA: G Hill, 2009	19	Sport 12m , 6	Jason Lammers 3 years ago Not the Crag Classic.
24	Statue of liberty very nice two pitch climb a slab grade 12 at the bottom with a stunning 14 metres of grade 24 at the top FA: rick phillips,	24	Sport 30m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago Top section is good. John Lattanzio 4 years ago good pump fest.
25	Shittin Bricks	13	Unknown 35m
26	Mythical Tomatoes One of the orginal classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's. Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it. FA: G Hill R Chunder, 1978	15	Trad 45m	John Wilson 4 years ago Superb moves and great position!
27	Shanadoa Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters. Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes. FA: G Hill, Hans Gimpeliji, 1978	12	Trad 50m	John Wilson 3 years ago The leftwards crack finish would be 15/16 in todays money and is loose at the top. An easy right ...
28	Ketchup A fine slab angle wall. Sustained climbing at about grade 19 from mid way up. Use the crack at the first blank bit or just grit your teeth and climb thru it for a better experience, not much harder this way. Graded only for the sustained nature. A confident leader will find it 19 all the way up. As for Mythical Tomatoes at blocky corner leading to the left side of the ledge at quarter height. Up corner to ledge. Up wall using cracks as necessary to rings at the top. FA: G. Hill, 2010	21	Sport 35m , 12
29	Cab Rank Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it. Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes FA: Bill James, 1974	12	Trad 50m
30	Maximum Multiplicity A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could. Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops. FA: G Hill & Hans Gimpeliji, 1978	11	Trad 50m
31	Minimals Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14. Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance. FA: G Hill & R Chunder, 1978	14	Trad 65m

1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods 31 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Long/Lat: 150.333228, -35.107092
Description:: An impressive steep wall with heaps of quality jugs and excellent endurance climbing for the mindless thug. There are also some nice beginner leads as well. Location: Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from Bill James Testimonial Gully. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.
Approach:© (dod): Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from 'Bill James Testimonial Gully'. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Roger Bourne Identity Up the dark crimpy slab. Start: First climb u come to, down the walk down gully. FA: Dirty "roger" Dude, 2009	16	Sport 16m , 6		Phil Ward 2 years ago Better slabbing than it looks Simon Vaughan 2 years ago Sustained at the grade!
2	Bingo Wings Step off block and follow steepening slab. FA: rick phillips,	14	Sport 15m		Matt Porter 10 months ago A tough choice for my first lead climb, Roger Bourne Identity felt much simpler Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Not the best 14 for beginners on lead. The 16 to the left ('Roger Bourne Identity') is better.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
3	Trad Dads Can't Campus Start on the lower level 3m right of BW. Heave from pocket onto ledge then take the left line of bolts up the steep wall, onto the slab and on to anchors. FA: Rick Phillips, 2000 FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	20	Sport 20m , 8		Jakob Kapelj 9 months ago Great laybacks. Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago A wandering trad climb of varying features, great fun, varied moves.
4	Gym Junkies Cant Jam Same start as Trad Dads Cant Campus, followed with lay back crux to gain the tops and on to easy ground to anchors. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	20	Sport 20m , 10		Jakob Kapelj 9 months ago Tough start getting up crack, top is fantastic. rick phillips again doddles get the name right "gym junkies cant jam same hardish start but go right after the ...
5	Don't Give Up Maman Harder for short people. Thin start on small edges and pebbles. Start: Just right of Trad Dads,Gym Junkies start. FA: V. Hill, 2009	23	Sport 20m , 9		rick phillips pretty thin and hard getting sequence right second bolt, now have found away, another high reach ...
6	Don't Give Up Maman - Direct Start FA: V.Hill, 2009	23	Unknown 20m
7	Upchuck Jug hauling interupted by the burly break move. Start: Between Trad Dads start and 'Dodecahedron' from the boulder. FA: Jan 2009,	24	Sport 20m
8	Dodecahedron The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper! FA: rick phillips,	22	Sport 20m		Jakob Kapelj 8 months ago Finally, the red point, awesome climb! Jakob Kapelj 8 months ago One day I'll get this clean, great climb!
9	Dave Fern A great jug haul. Originally climbed on trad gear and the carrots now full of rings. Start: At the initials DFA. Shares first three bolts with 'Dodecahedron'. FA: Hill and Hill,	22	Sport 25m		Matt Tranter 2 years ago Long and pummpy but good quality. Really nasty run out to the lower offs. Jason Smith 3 years ago Bloody excellent
10	Diamond Head A right diagonal used to block those new routers that may sneak another line in. Large jugs are what every guy dreams of and this route has lots. Start: Same Start as Dave Fern FA: Hill,	22	Sport 25m , 10		Jason Lammers 1 years ago Bit run out at the end.. Matt Tranter 2 years ago Not as nice as the other two routes it shares the start with.
11	Gratefully Dead Done in the days of the carrot bolt and mixed gear. When you knew how to place a good runner and dyno into a finger lock. Now of course its full of rings, and if you thought the run out was pants wetting then I placed a couple more bolts just for you. Start: Under the obvious overlap to the right of DH. FA: Hill,	24	Sport 25m		Aidan 8 weeks ago Ridiculous move on the overlap, not even close
12	Heat Blast Originally done on the old bolts alone, with a few rope stretching falls. Rings added later by Hill who dismally failed at trying to repeat the route. Name courtesy of Ben Ten. Start: Under orange wall that leads up into the cave with two rings for lower off. FA: S. Bullen,	25	Sport 15m
13	Custard Canon A great climb with the crux down low. Start: Right of orange stripe that leads to cave. FA: G Hill, 2000	23	Sport 20m
14	Snacky Cakes Start a few meters right of Custard Cannon. Up the black blunt arete and continue up the slab to anchors. FA: G Hill, 2009	21	Sport 20m , 10		John Lattanzio 4 weeks ago Quite hard for the grade, probably 22, great sequences and quite sustained.
15	Yesterdays Hero's The classic route from the 70s. Put up by the pioneers of the area. Just because they don't have a line of stainless drilled up em doesn't mean they're not climbs! Start: Obvious big black slab around the corner right of 'Snacky Cakes' FA: Bill James and Co.,	10	Unknown 22m
16	Traddington Bear Ascend the face between LMS and the brushy gully. Start at LMS and move slightly right, then straight up. Stay left of the alcove near the LMS anchors. Top out and belay on slung blocks or other gear. Apologies to G Hill for the name, I don't know what it should be called. Start: 1 meter left of Little Miss Sunshine	11	Trad 25m
17	Little Miss Sunshine Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	11	Sport 14m , 8		Matt Tranter 2 years ago I would be a tad worried at the 4th bolt if I was a newbie. John Lattanzio 3 years ago nice easy one
18	Hill Does Crack Start at the obviou diagonal crack on the right end of the LMS slab. There is a very faint '18' painted/chipped into the rock at the start. Climb up 7 meters follow the seam as it diagonals left. Top out, belay on large cams under blocks. FA: G Hill, 2000	15	Trad 20m		Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Great climb, the overhang is fun and juggy. Jakob Kapelj 12 months ago fun climb, good semi over hung crux. Walkout to top.
19	Cool Bananas Start8 mtrs right of HDC, off the big block which you get to from around the back. Hard moves off the ground for the grade, easing off at top. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	17	Sport 14m , 7		Rob Barker 7 months ago I kinda liked the weird start but missed the jugs at the third ring and came off trying to crimp ... Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Tough start.
20	Ive Got Wood The rock in the first 5 meters is so good i had to stick another route up it. More sustained than it looks. Start as for 'Groovy Tuesday' then traverse left to the next line of bolts to anchors. FA: G Hill, 2009	22	Sport 15m , 8		John Lattanzio 4 weeks ago Great climb with some great moves, sustained.
21	Groovy Tuesday Climbed originally on the carrots and trad gear. Now Full of great rings. Start: Orange wall at bulgy cracked overlap. Look for the old carrot bolts. 18m (22) technical start leads to a pumpy middle section 8m (12) From the ledge you can top out if you like... FA: rick phillips; Hill/Ricky,	22	Sport 18m		Simon Vaughan 2 years ago First conceived line was a good find John Lattanzio 3 years ago stellar climbing
22	Captain Australia and the Lemon Argonauts Thru the flakes, up nice headwall. Start: Under obvious flakes FA: Jason Lammers, 2009	18	Sport 15m		Rob Barker 7 months ago best climb of the day - interesting start with a nice flowing top section - reminds me of 'Old Sa... Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Great climb. Some good side grabs.
23	Mouche Pique Just inside the slot three metres left of Shut The Gate at the corner. Up through the conglomerate band and the small overhang above it to the slab and the next small overhang Follow the line of bolts up the slab to the lower off. FFA: V.Hill, 2011 FA: V.Hill, 2011	18	Sport 20m , 9		Jakob Kapelj 8 months ago Great climb, fun start Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Really enjoyed this climb, nice moves with a chance to practice good footwork.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
24	Rita's Revenge Great junk of orange rock to start and an easy slab finish. A direct start to Rita. Possibly a little gay at 24 but at least as hard as STG. Start: Two meters right of 'Mouche Pique' at the orange undercut under diagonal thin crack. FA: G Hill, 2011	24	Sport 20m , 9
25	Les Vacances De St Rita Takes advantage of all the orange rock it can. Others would swear at another contrived piece of shit from Hill but who cares. Boulderers do it all the time. Start: Same start as shut the gate. FA: V Hill, 2000	22	Sport 22m , 9
26	Shut The Gate easy lower moves, stop suddenly to a crimpy layback pump fest FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	24	Sport 12m , 6		rick phillips still really a project the line on the left of two climbs that go to one anchor, one really hard ...
27	The Horse Has Bolted You can top out from this climb, belay at rap anchor and walk around ledge (with care). Originally a trad gear lead with a start from the right and a grade of 16. Add the bolts and it gets harder? Starts a few meters left of the obvious corner crack, about 20 right of Groovy Tuesday. Climb past the conglomerate band and flake to the corner, surmount this then climb the slab above to the belay/ lower off. FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	19	Sport 25m , 11		John Lattanzio 3 years ago good varied climbing Phil Welch 4 years ago Abseil clean
28	Je Veux vous Entendre Siffler! The direct line up the wall then up the leaning corner. Keep going to the rap chains at the very top. Start: On the grey wall two meters right of THHB direct start. FA: V Hill, 2011	18	Sport 22m , 9		Jakob Kapelj 5 months ago Go past the first two rings to find the chain at the top, fantastic. Jakob Kapelj 12 months ago I really love this climb! Good move at the ledge. Bolts in nice friendly places.
29	Whistling For Dinner A nice little wall that deserved a taste of steel. The orange rock in the cave is great and the moves up the right side of the arete just fine. Ignore the two bolts on the left side of the arête they're just a waste of stainless. Start: Same two bolt wall start as JVVES to the ledge. FA: G Hill, 2011	21	Sport 22m , 9
30	Hill Project zz9zpluralzalpha The pick of the bunch. Goes up the sanest chunk of orange rock, in the most direct manner. Once around the roof the slab is easy. Start: On the easy orange wall two meters right of the other route and just left of the cave. FA: G Hill, 2011	23	Sport 21m , 9
31	Time For Turnips A really great way to use the rock as a resource to its best. It shares the same start and the same lower offs but all the rest of the route is completely different enough to want to climb it. Start: Same start as the previous route just left of the cave. FA: G Hill, 2011	22	Sport 22m , 9

1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 150.333884, -35.106048
Description:© (dod): A superbly grid bolted wall by the master himself, aka Graeme Hill. Typical 'Nowra' vertical climbing on great looking orange rock, with most routes about 20m.
Approach:© (dod): Go down the gully as per Husky Homo & Hill Top Hoods about one third down skirt around right and you will see the climbs.

* note climbs described right to left *

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Roger the Emu The 1st climb you come to. Up past bolts to giant U lower off. FA: mark woodard, 2000	18	Sport 15m	Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Enjoyable Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Enjoyable
2	Cracks in the Coalition of the Willing start under the leaning crack, all geared up!! all those bottom placements you think you can see are dirty and flaring, so you climb up a bit freak out and down climb a little then do some gardening.. you get decent gear at about 4 mtrs, more nut placements than cams finish up storking pork anchors Start: ummm. at the bottom of the crack i guess! FA: Rick Phillips & Graeme Hill, 2000	17	Trad 20m
3	Storking Pork The next climb along. A few reachy moves and will test shortish people. Crosses the crack at about 2/3s height and up on jugs to anchors. FA: G Hill, 2000	21	Sport 15m	Jason Lammers 3 years ago Committing at EOTD...
4	Kurds in the Whey A beautiful piece of work inspired by nature and the Indian Stainless Steel plant used to make my bolts raw materials. This sought of climb keeps the wall average grade somewhere around the solid 20. So quit complaining if a few climbs are underdone the ones to the side are probably over done. Start: Shared start with BB, then moves right. FA: G Hill, 2000	20	Sport 18m
5	Bunker Bolster Another line of inspiring stainless steel that sets this wall apart from all the others i have grid bolted. Start: Shared start with KitW, then move left. FA: G Hill, 2000	20	Sport 18m
6	What Weapons These two routes make up some of the best climbing on this wall. A little bit techo and sometimes fancy. Start: This climb shares the same start as the next to the left at the initial BB. FA: G Hill, 2000	20	Sport 18m
7	The Butchers Brother Great climbing. Don't whine too much if the odd bit of rock snaps off your probably doing the only ascent for that year. Start: At the initial BB in the middle of the wall. FA: G Hill, 2000	20	Sport 18m
8	Climb Of Mass Destruction A great piece of climbing,well I liked it! Start: This is the third route in from the corner. Without the big U bolt lower off. FA: G Hill, 2000	20	Sport 18m
9	The Butcher of Berkeley Committing climbing up the wall past little overlaps. There is a loose block at the start. Start: Just right of corner. FA: Mark woodard, 2000	19	Sport 18m
10	Roger the Pelican Start in corner and up just left of corner FA: Mark Woodard, 2000	19	Sport 18m
11	Roger the Nudibranch Up wall and thru roof. Start: Left of corner FA: mark woodard, 2000	18	Sport 20m	Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Watch out for the tree if you fall from the crux - this needs to be renamed the prostate exam!
12	A Sadamn Saturday The next one along, starting just left of RtN FA: G hill, 2000	22	Sport 20m
13	Slabbing with Sadamn The slab of death, last climb in this sector... FA: G Hill, 2000	20	Sport 20m

1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope
Long/Lat: 150.335486, -35.105038

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1	Sheep Graziers Alert Up the juggy wall Start: Just right of big cave. FA: Dave Bateman, 2008	15	Sport 10m		Matt Porter 10 months ago That big Boulder Jason Lammers has his left hand on in his photo ... that's on the ground now Phil Ward 2 years ago Disgracefully sharp
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
2	Married Mans Clip Up Up left side of cave. Finger jugs, to jugs, to crimpy headwall. Sustained for 12 metres FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009	23	Sport 12m , 6		Jakob Kapelj 8 months ago Fun start jug hauling up to roof, strong crux giving it the grade, then easy finish. Well protected. psmythe 2 years ago Dog-fest getting onto the face above the roof, and then fell from the anchors right back down the...
3	Sausage Machine Shared start (marked) with PP, up and slightly to the right. FA: S. Bullen,	25	Sport 12m
4	Pissing Protein Shared start with SM, up to the left. FA: G. Hill,	23	Sport 12m		graeme hill 5 years ago Tricky start then tricky to the top
5	Roger the Iguana Thin start on shallow pockets then easier wall to giant U. Sandbag. Start: 4m left of PP FA: Mark Woodard, 2000	19	Sport 12m , 5		Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Something must have broken but the start of this is impossibly hard, had to clip the bolt on top ... Phil Ward 2 years ago Undergraded (at 18) and painfully sharp
6	Roger the Woodchuck Up wall to shared giant U lower off with previous climb. Sandbag. Start: The left most climb on this wall FA: Mark Woodard, 2003	18	Sport 12m , 5		Jakob Kapelj 5 months ago Fun jug haul for end of day laps Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Great fun reachy jug haul

1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
Description:© (bundybear): Great long easy climbing with lots of bolts for the masses. The standard warm up area for "Rick's Cafe" et al...

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	Roger the Sea Lion Arcing line just left of arete to solid looking U bolt. All routes from Fat Mark are graded 16. Start: The first climb on the steeper part of the lower wall FA: Mark Woodard, 2003	17	Sport 15m	Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Great climb, i could repeat this every time I go to TJF Phil Ward 2 years ago Good fun - slab to arete.
2	Roger the Boa Constrictor Line of bolts that goes up to the same U bolt as the preceeding climb. All Fat marks routes come with the standard grade of 16 so take care until you feel solid on 20 before trying it. Start: Two to three meters left of Roger The Sea Lion. FA: Mark Woodard, 2003	18	Sport 15m	Phil Ward 2 years ago A tough start psmythe 2 years ago thin to start
3	Diagonal Crack Up R The D for first three bolts then trend left into the obvious left leading crack. Wires and cams to connect the bolts, finish at the D. rings at the end of the diagonal. FA: Gavin Murray, 2009	17	Trad 20m
4	Puit Damour Start up DDD for a couple of moves, then move right and up to anchor. FA: G Hill, 2009	19	Sport 20m	Phil Ward 2 years ago Tough for 17
5	Debbie Duz Dishes Up wall with some thin(ish) moves Start: Marked FA: G. Hill,	21	Sport 25m
6	Pat Pat very ceuse...for one reason alone.... FA: , 2008	20	Sport 23m	Phil Ward 2 years ago No way this is 17! Run out and loose rock. John Wilson 2 years ago Rising traverse thats pretty run out for this style.
7	Tassi Rabbi Some cool moves direcly up wall to anchor in cave. The only route that does not goto the top off cliff Start: In middle of wall FA: G. Hill, 2000	20	Sport 15m	Dave McGregor 3 years ago glad of Giles' draws in a couple of spots Vanessa Wills 4 years ago Nice finger lock is the highlight
8	Maurice the Fart Freak Long enjoyable jaunt up a great wall, gets a little bit pumpy towards the end. The mandatory warmup... FA: G. Hill, 2000	19	Sport 25m	Phil Ward 2 years ago Hard in the sun, pumpy top psmythe 2 years ago Felt a touch hard for 15 :)
9	Roger the Hippo Tricky start, up nice easy face to beautiful orange rock. FA: Woodard, 2000	18	Sport 22m	Rob Barker 7 months ago still a hard finish for an 18 (originally graded 16!) - surprisingly pumpy Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Feels like a different climb after the cave/hole/overlap
10	Roger the Rhino The left most climb on this wall, finishes on shared lower off with preceding climb FA: Woodard, 2000	17	Sport 22m	Jakob Kapelj 10 months ago Ok Phil Ward 2 years ago Big tough top move

1.10.6. Rick's Cafe 7 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Description:© (dod): A slick white wall with a different climbing style to the other areas, mostly climbing on pockets and large flat edges. Some of the best rock at TJF.
Approach:© (dod): In the middle of the Amazon jungle, roughly the middle of the entire TJF cliffline. Walk down past Chunder's Glen and keep following the cliff left past a bit of a scramble down and past some chossy walls to find this grid bolted crag. Routes are described from right to left.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	Lattes on the Lounge A climb everyone will enjoy, get on it! FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	22	Sport 20m , 8		Dave McGregor 3 years ago "holy leaping shortarses.." 1st go but with draws on and running beta from the organic garlic far... John Lattanzio 4 years ago Technical pumpy climbing
2	Emporium hurly burly go the underclings!! FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	24	Sport 20m , 8		Simon Vaughan 4 years ago You can stray easliy up high left or right and you can go right easily over the bulge and I broke... rick phillips yay!! so many goes but finally, thanks bundy for the push
3	Double Decaf Takes a diagonal line left, then through the overlaps. Hard one to onsight! FA: Rick Phillips, 2009	21	Unknown 20m , 8		John Lattanzio 4 years ago pumpy Vanessa Wills 4 years ago nice variation
4	Half Double Decaf has a hardish start until you get it wired FA: Rick Phillips, 2000	21	Sport 20m		Jason Lammers 11 months ago Quite tricky without the Beta !!
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
5	Doppio Tricky moves to start then power up thru 3 little rooves. FA: Bundy, 2008	23	Sport 15m , 5		Jakob Kapelj 4 months ago First proper crack at the grade, great climb with great ring placements. Fantastic moves through ... Stephen Hawkshaw 3 years ago kapow
6	Project - Hill A fun little route that you do more for the moves and the great little holds than the mountain wilderness experience, hence the close bolts. Start: As for Short Black on the really great orange rock.		Sport 25m
7	Short black The left most route on the crag.Tough crux, with some funky , committing moves, pick a day with good friction. FA: Rick Phillips, 2008	23	Sport 22m , 9		Jason Lammers 3 years ago Way cool feature.. John Lattanzio 4 years ago Excellent technical climbing

1.10.7. Bundy's Bar and Grill 2 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport,?
Description:© (ropedonkey): Up high on a ledge over looking the cafe and corner store areas. Plenty more routes to go in here. Get your drill out !
Approach:© (ropedonkey): Walk north from the cafe, across the log and on your way to the corner store...but before you go thru the squeeze boulder grab the fixed rope & get your arse up the greasy wall to the ledge "Bundy burger & barby sauce" is the climb starting far left on a rocky pedestal

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents

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Crag Guide for New Nowra - Braidwood Road

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Table of contents

1. New Nowra - Braidwood Road 643 routes in Crag

1.1. Afterburner Wall 20 routes in Area

1.2. The Lair 44 routes in Area

1.2.1. Black Wall 1 route in Area

1.2.2. Sundeck 6 routes in Area

1.2.3. Berlin Wall 12 routes in Area

1.2.4. Members Area 13 routes in Area

1.2.5. Gardens of Stone 7 routes in Area

1.2.6. Titanic 5 routes in Area

1.3. Panther 31 routes in Area

1.3.1. Access Canyon 7 routes in Area

1.3.2. Tell your story area 20 routes in Area

1.3.3. Tiger wall 4 routes in Area

1.4. Hylands Lookout 123 routes in Area

1.4.1. North-Western side 8 routes in Area

1.4.1.1. Toxic Beauty area 2 routes in Area

1.4.1.2. The Sunny Ledge 5 routes in Area

1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper 20 routes in Area

1.4.3. South-Western side 50 routes in Area

1.4.3.1. Liquidity Wall 10 routes in Area

1.4.3.2. Dark Energy Slab 6 routes in Area

1.4.3.3. Zombie Wall 7 routes in Area

1.4.3.4. Mystery Wall 6 routes in Area

1.4.3.5. Pillar Environs 3 routes in Area

1.4.3.6. Member's Only 9 routes in Area

1.4.3.7. Busted Arse Wall 5 routes in Area

1.4.4. No Man's Land 6 routes in Area

1.4.5. Utopia 39 routes in Area

1.4.5.1. Crash and Burn Area 5 routes in Area

1.4.5.2. Middle Earth Wall 8 routes in Area

1.4.5.3. Halfway House 2 routes in Area

1.4.5.4. Bushwhacked Area 5 routes in Area

1.4.5.5. Punch & Judy Area 14 routes in Area

1.4.5.6. The Cinema Strip 1 route in Area

1.4.5.7. Wave Walls 4 routes in Area

1.5. Lassiter's 89 routes in Area

1.5.1. Fucktardia 10 routes in Unknown

1.5.2. The Mullock Heap 19 routes in Sector

1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls 9 routes in Sector

1.5.4. Metalloid Wall 6 routes in Sector

1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress 19 routes in Sector

1.5.6. Quality Junk area 2 routes in Sector

1.5.7. Diamond Wall 6 routes in Sector

1.5.8. Nugget Wall 6 routes in Area

1.5.9. The Sluice Box 12 routes in Sector

1.6. The Gold Mine 59 routes in Area

1.6.1. 22000lbs area 3 routes in Area

1.6.2. Rick Roller's Rap in Area 5 routes in Area

1.6.3. Cafe Cruiser Wall 10 routes in Area

1.6.4. Monty's Cave 4 routes in Area

1.6.5. Fernville 12 routes in Area

1.6.6. Wasp in the Willows 14 routes in Area

1.6.7. Sandpaper Wall 5 routes in Area

1.6.8. Decent Gully Walls 6 routes in Area

1.6.8.1. Wringer Wall 2 routes in Feature

1.7. Capricornia 11 routes in Area

1.7.1. Southern Sector 11 routes in Sector

1.7.2. Northern Sector 0 routes in Sector

1.8. Moonshine 49 routes in Area

1.8.1. Lunar Wall 15 routes in Area

1.8.2. Dark Side 34 routes in Area

1.9. Sunshine Sunny Side 21 routes in Area

1.9.1. Sector 1 - Descent Gully Area 1 route in Sector

1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux 15 routes in Area

1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave 3 routes in Sector

1.9.4. Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall 2 routes in Area

1.10. Tianjara Falls 196 routes in Area

1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully 31 routes in Area

1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods 31 routes in Area

1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall 13 routes in Area

1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall 6 routes in Area

1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall 10 routes in Area

1.10.6. Rick's Cafe 7 routes in Area

1.10.7. Bundy's Bar and Grill 2 routes in Area