A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. New Nowra - Braidwood Road 661 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.402474, -35.071813

Description:

The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality is 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone, very similar to Thompsons Point.

1.1. Afterburner Wall 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

A single steep orange wall once visited by mysterious bolters who gridded the top with U anchors as well as sparsley placed them down some of the climbs. Some of the anchors were lacking glue but most of them are fine. The bolts over the top should be ignored as there are now double rings on the tops of most climbs.

Useful Info: 'Access' the cliff by walking to the edge and walking right facing out for about thirty meters. Look for a slot chimney with green rungs in it.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Drive past the turn off to Thompson's Point and the University and continue past the reservoir and down the hill. As you come out of the little valley at the bottom of the hill there is a house on the right and the turn off almost immediately opposite to the left up YALWAL road. Follow this up until the road goes under the power lines. Further along an open area appears on your right about the size of a football field and sometimes populated by dead cars. Turn into this and drive to the back side and just right of centre. There will be a small dirt track heading off from this clearing for 70 to 90 meters at the end of this park. To go another 20 meters further you would drive straight over the cliff. Can be seen on aerial maps as a large orange patch off a straight section of dirt road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Puke Skywalker

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

FA: G Hill, 2007

23Sport 15m graeme hill

first climb down the chimney, jug fest

2 Rap in to start looks hard 26Unknown 20m
3 *** Long orange streak looks even harder 27Unknown 25m
4 ** Next to the right at little slab 25Unknown 22m
5 ** Trilobutt

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 18m graeme hill 6 years ago

Far out groovy does writing a comment get your post up?

6 * Bum-eyed Bumosaurus

This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts.

Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2008

22Sport 18m graeme hill 6 years ago

I did it for Bundy

7 ** Bionic Barf Bunnies

Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp.

Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line.

FA: G Hill, 2007

22Sport 22m graeme hill 6 years ago

Probably over estimated the grade but i was pumped

8 ** The Sperminator

Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock.

Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 18m graeme hill

juggy past the crux

9 * Trap Buddies

Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground.

Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 18m graeme hill

Start rhs of clff

10 * The Back Slapping Crack Wax

This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!?

Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 18m graeme hill

same start as trap buddies quite a good climb

11 * Muscle Thruster

This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish.

Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 15m
12 * Ball Burner

Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience.

Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 18m graeme hill

Not my climb except for the top anchors

13 * Rats Project

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff.

Start: At the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'.

23Sport 23m
14 ** Romancing The Bone

Pumper route with nails hard start and a crux way up the top. There is an easier alternative and this is to pike at the two closely spaced bolts just before the last crux its hard 23 to this point. You will see the bolts they are pretty obvious lower off anchors disguised as runners.

Start: Up on the ledge about three meters right of Alien's Route Three. In vague corner.

FA: G Hill, 2005

24Sport 23m
15 Veg

Early bridging avoids the bouldery start. the climb gets a little sandy but is generally cool and ok.

Start: This is the second route down the access slot. It keeps the route sequencing correct to stick this right of 'Rats Project'.

FA: G Hill, 2005

16Sport 15m
16 ** Aliens Route One

If you did this climb enter the details. It goes up some of the best looking rock in 'Nowra'. 'Steep' and bulgy though its a pity about the start not commencing from the ground.

Start: The first bolts are high up the wall so it looks like a rap in start.

FA: The AVC, 2000

Sport 20m
17 * Plasto Bambola

Steep on generally sound rock and big jugs with a tricky head wall to finish.

Start: At crack to the right as you come out from the descent gully.

FA: G Hill, 2005

23Sport 20m, 8
18 Lisa's Monkey

Cool in summer though a little sandy. Will clean up with a thousand ascents. Just look at 'Gun Barrel Highway' now!

Start: The first route you pass as you walk down the access slot.

FA: G Hill, 2005

16Sport 12m
19 *** Alien's Route Two

Gotta be the best looking bit of stone around. Why doesn't anybody want to go and climb it give it a grade and some closure in its life?

Start: Right of Alien's Route One from the ground.

FA: The AVC, 2000

Sport 22m
20 ** Alien's Route Three

When the Alien's bolted this baby they wanted you to find some balls, squeeze them together and go for it. Maybe these Aliens were British trad dudes?

Start: Right of ART under obvious large hole in rock and slabby pre wall.

FA: The AVC, 2000

Sport 22m

1.2. The Lair 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.456728, -34.974179

Description:© (gavin lyon)

The Lair is a sandstone cliffline up to 20m in height. It faces west so is good on a winters afternoon or early on a summer morning. The sun hits some of the faces from 10am in winter and you can find summer shade until 1pm. Protected from wind also. It has a variety of generally well protected easy to mid grade climbs. Established as a sport climbing crag with glue-in stainless steel ringbolts and double ringbolt lower-offs.

Useful Info: -34.9564211,150.4829561

The climbs are described from left to right as you are facing the cliff. 'Access' track is very uneven with a lot of forest debris.

Bring insect repellant, as there can be some mozzies around.

It is an excellent area for beginners and kids as it is generally child-friendly and has many bolted easy to moderate routes.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

If you are approaching from Sydney follow the Princes 'Highway' to 'Nowra'. After crossing the Shoalhaven River continue past 'Nowra' Fair shopping centre on the left. Turn right at the Kalandar Street lights. Follow the signs to HMAS 'Albatross'. When you see the airbase. Turn right onto Braidwood Road and follow this past 'Nowra' Motorcycle Club. Just after the motorcycle club take the next turn right onto a gravel road (Yerriyong Vale Road - no sign, but marked on Google Maps). Set your odometer. You will pass a fire trail on the right before the road drops down to a creek line and past a couple of properties(right) . At 3.3km you will notice an obvious 4WD track on the right (used to have sign 'Wattle Fire Trail' at its entrance, missing 2013) and carparking on the left. The road ends at a locked gate a few hundred metres past the carpark.

If approaching from the south follow the signs to HMAS 'Albatross', turn left onto Braidwood Road and continue from there.

On Yerriyong Vale Road there are 3 car spaces located opposite the 4WD track (10m up the road on the left from the 'Wattle Fire Trail' wooden sign). 10m south from the larger carpark there is a thin tree stump marked track (also ribbon on tree 2013) leading up to the cliff line (5 mins walk). Heading up the hill on this track brings you up to a gully between 'Sundeck' and 'Berlin Wall'.

Parking at the next carpark along and heading straight up through the bush will lead you to the 'Titanic' area.

Do not leave any valuables in your cars and keep the road clear as it is access to farms.

1.2.1. Black Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon)

Distinct black wall.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

North end of crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tim's Torment

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

11Sport 17m David McQueen 8 years ago

Can't remember the climb, just the painful shoes.

Mark Ashmore 8 years ago

Yuk. Bad rock towards the top.

1.2.2. Sundeck 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:© (gavin lyon)

Just north of access track

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fiest-Fest

Steep start on good rock. Left around outside of cave and up. CAUTION: Take care clipping second bolt. 4RB's to DBB at present. (Not as shown).

FA: Mark Rewi

22 RSport 12m
2 The End Is Near

Take care on thin edges. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: 21 Nov 2004

19Sport 17m Peter Martin 6 years ago

Still a few holds that feel lile they may break off but nice climbing.

Jason Lammers 6 years ago

End of Day - Bear Trap

3 * Delta Cream

Start on the block 2m R of TEIN. Nice delicate moves up slab. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. Watch thin edges. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: David Casey, 2004

17Sport 17m Jason Lammers 6 years ago

Looks junk, but climbs well.

kyle jones 6 years ago

Be carful with holds often breakin

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Fortunes Crown

Start 1m R of tree. Take care on thin edges. Past overlap then complete a short airy traverse to pull up between blocks. Named after the 'Nowra' poker machine that funded it. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

15Sport 16m Doug Moore 7 years ago

Lots of crappy little edges that will break off

Ben Stone 8 years ago

nice and sustained at the grade

5 Barbeque Breakfast

Work your way up the slab staying right of the corner. Increasing difficulty. 4 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

17Sport 12m Jason Lammers 6 years ago

with Loz

Stuart McElroy 7 years ago

with Dude

6 The Bendix Promise

Up the right hand side of the slab. Good moves in second half. 4 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

16Sport 12m Jason Lammers 6 years ago

with Loz

Stuart McElroy 7 years ago

With Dude

1.2.3. Berlin Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon)

Generally slabby face climbing.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

Just south of the access track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Push over

Middle of slab in descent gully. 3RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

12Sport 10m Stuart McElroy 7 years ago

with Dude

Mark Ashmore 8 years ago

Yuk. Why bother.

2 I'm Lichen It

Right hand end of slab in descent gully.

FA: Adam Dubois

14Sport 10m Stuart McElroy 7 years ago

With Dude

Gavin Lyon 8 years ago

Will be better after cleaning

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Chuffed

Pleasant slab moves. 5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

12Sport 13m Alex Rogers 11 months ago

Fun slabbing with the kids.

matt schnabl 4 years ago

easy slab

4 Street Sweeper

The flake then straight up the slab to the edge of the cave. Good slab sections.6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

15Sport 15m Alex Rogers 11 months ago

Nice slab moves higher up, good fun.

matt schnabl 4 years ago

warm up

5 * 6" Release Right hand finish

FA: G Hill

21Unknown
6 ** 6" Release Left hand finish

FA: G Hill

21Unknown Dave McGregor 6 years ago

had to work very hard to get out of the cave then there was this slab...somehow stuck to get last...

. 6 years ago

ridiculously hard upper slab.

7 Triple J

Direct start to BTD. Start up the flake and bulge to join BTD at mid height. 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Mark Rewi

21Sport 18m Jason Lammers 6 years ago

good sequence down low

will watkins 6 years ago

nice one

8 * Beat The Drum

The original and the best of the three. Up the corner then L onto the slab. Use the edge of the cave then up over a short section of hollow sounding orange rock (the drum). 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

18Sport 18m matt schnabl 4 years ago

soft for the grade

. 6 years ago

Some good climbing, but no where near *

9 Ninety Eight Point Nine

Mid height variation to BTD. Start up BTD. Move R on slab then rejoin BTD to finish.

7 RB's to DBB.

FA: David Casey

19Sport 18m Jason Lammers 6 years ago

Worthless variation.

Ben Stone 8 years ago

much nicer varient then original line i think anyway!

10 Bingo Wings

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

18Sport 15m matt schnabl 4 years ago

thin hard start, rest of climb great

Stephen Hawkshaw 6 years ago

nice incuts

11 ** 6' Release LHV

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

21Sport 17m
12 * 6' Release RHV

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

21Sport

1.2.4. Members Area 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon)

Generally good steep rock. Best quality routes at crag.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

South of 'Berlin Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Sport 14m
2 * The Melbourne Connection

1m left of 'Origami'. Pockets to start then thin moves through to finishing jugs.

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Mark Rewi

24Sport 15m Lauren Chandler 6 years ago

The only climb here we didn't brake a hold off!

will watkins 6 years ago

could not contain the donkey on this one. hard slab moves.

3 Daily Grind

Up widening crack. Gritty.

19Trad 15m
4 * Origami

Steep arete at L end of grandstand. Problem solver. Reachy crux.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

22Sport 15m Alex Rogers 11 months ago

Excellent steep hauling up arete, then very long reach to not much at all. Beyond me, fell off 4 ...

Lauren Chandler 6 years ago

Set the tone for the day - flithy holds and choss

5 ** Cheeky Possum

Start as for 'Origami' then traverse right and up through sustained moves. Great excursion on good rock. 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

21Sport 15m Stuart McElroy 7 years ago

Stiff for 21 - but I guess it is Nowra! With Dude

Gavin Lyon 8 years ago

Great excursion

6 * Graba Granny

Steep start on big pockets. Good moves on good rock. 5RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

21Sport John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Quite hard down low, sustained up high, harder than Bakery Treat, more like 22.

Stephen Hawkshaw 6 years ago

top moves!

7 *** Bakery Treat

Sustained and excellent. Varied climbing on good rock.

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

23Sport 16m Doug Moore 3 years ago

Bottom moves harder as crucial holds have broken off. Clean ascent other than pulling on 2nd dra...

Stephen Hawkshaw 6 years ago

22 max

8 Shoot it and Root it

6RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 16m graeme hill

a bit gritty

9 ** Back Door Bangin

5RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 16m graeme hill

Not the usual climbing with two finger locks & two handjams. Go right at second last bolt.

10 * The Nose Of The Umpire

6RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

22Sport graeme hill

You can do a "rose" move if you want. The finish is up the tree. I will sought out a better fini...

11 * Kill It and Grill It

Batman start. 5 RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

22Sport Stephen Hawkshaw 6 years ago

23 min!

. 6 years ago

Flowy. Good ya.

12 *** Slice it & Dice It

Start as TNOTU then diagonally right. 6RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 22m graeme hill

Some of the best rock at Nowra

13 * Mr Pebble

Up the arete. 4RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill, 2005

21Sport Jason Lammers 6 years ago

Hard move at start, but good.

graeme hill

Steep and not a goo climb for short arses due to start requirements.

1.2.5. Gardens of Stone 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (gavin lyon)

Smaller broken cliffline.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

South of 'Members Area'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horses Gift

Left of 'The Dish'. Start in the corner next to the tree. Hard start.

4 RB's to DBB

FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008

15Sport 11m John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Dicky anchor position

2 The Dish

Start up the crack then step left and up the face.

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

18Sport 11m Brett Baker 7 years ago

Stuffed up the first part. Clean on the second attempt..

David McQueen 8 years ago

Crappy rock and not getting any better.

3 Hazy Days

Up middle of slab.

3 RB's to DBB

FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008

17Sport 11m
4 Simple Life

Up the middle of the gently angled slab.

3 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

10Sport 12m Alex Rogers 11 months ago

Perfect beginners route - my 6 & 8 year olds loved it

Daniel McNamara

solo

5 Cruise Control

Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab.

4 RB's to DBB.

FA: Alicia Townshend

9Sport 12m Alex Rogers 11 months ago

Another really good beginners route

Jodie M 8 years ago

lovely warm up on a hot day

6 Anti-Gravitron

Start on slab to right of overhanging wall. Finish next to small tree.

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

20Sport 12m John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Tough, crucial may need pinning.

Ben Stone 8 years ago

really good thin climbing - was getting tired near the end of the day - no excuse

7 New Years Resolution

3m right of AG. Follow the grey streak to left of large diagonal crack.

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Mark Rewi

22Sport 11m David McQueen 8 years ago

This is not a 22. Can't even pull the last move off a rest. Destroys an otherwise nice face climb...

Daniel McNamara 8 years ago

great, couple of mono holds,

1.2.6. Titanic 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (gavin lyon)

Isolated crag.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

100m south of 'Gardens of Stone' area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Twilitght Zone

Sustained moves up the arête. 5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

20Sport 14m
2 * It's a Lark

Up corner past orange rock at ¾ height. Step right at top. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Jodie Matthews

14Sport 15m constantine carluen 2 years ago

yeah another one which is great to learn how to lead.

Gary John Bowden 7 years ago

nice easy climb

3 Sinking Fast

It starts in an overhanging wide crack with some soft, suspect rock for the feet. It works up through a pod that can be stemmed and face climbed around.

Start: The route follows the obvious overhanging corner left of Dad's Comb.

FA: Bruce Hendrix, Marco Cunningham, Aaron Mbakwe and Tom Jamieson., 2000

16Trad 14m
4 Dad's Comb

Start under right-hand end of overhang. Step out and up following crack.

Natural gear.

FA: Chris Parfitt, 2005

12Trad 14m constantine carluen 2 years ago

nice easy climb, great for learning how to lead.

5 Mum's Short and Curleys

Start to right of Dad's Comb trad route. Up to third bolt, step left and follow last 2 bolts diagonally left to anchors.

5 RB's to DBB

FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008

12Sport 15m Alex Rogers 11 months ago

Quite a tricky start with some swing potential, then easily up.

1.3. Panther 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.431605, -35.017231

Description:

An area canvassing the cliffs between Moonshine and Hylands lookout. A vast amount of rock with a lot more potential and less broken cliff lines than other areas nearby.

About 35 routes spread out along a number of butresses, each with a very different feel.

Location: Drive out along the Braidwood road until you go past Turpentine Road (on your left a major road) a further 50 mtrs on your right turn into Deans Gap Road, follow this dirt road for a couple of kms until you hit the powerlines. Turn left under the power lines and follow them down the hill past one tower and stop about 100 mtrs before the creek (you know your in the right place if there is a small clearing at the edge of the bush and the very small ground cover is flattened by cars). Look for a white road marker showing the start of the track!

Walk westwards into the bush via the clearing and follow the track marked by yellow ribbon (John drinks coopers for trackwork donations) it will bring you out to a small gully. Go down the gully and go left facing out, you should be walking under overhangs now (for 200 mtrs).

When you get to the end of this walk you should be at the first climbs in the "Access Canyon" at the back of this canyon is a scramble to get you access to the other areas, just follow the cliff for 5 mins when you see a large curving flake your at "Story Wall" and just around the corner is "Tiger Wall".

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Drive out along the Braidwood road until you go past Turpentine Road (on your left a major road) a further 50 mtrs on your right turn into Deans Gap Road, follow this dirt road for a couple of kms until you hit the powerlines. Turn left under the power lines and follow them down the hill past one tower and stop about 100 mtrs before the creek (you know your in the right place if there is a small clearing at the edge of the bush and the very small ground cover is flattened by cars). Look for a white road marker showing the start of the track!

Walk westwards into the bush via the clearing and follow the track marked by yellow ribbon (John drinks coopers for trackwork donations) it will bring you out to a small gully.

Go down the gully and go left facing out, you should be walking under overhangs now (for 200 mtrs).

When you get to the end of this walk you should be at the first climbs in the "Access Canyon" at the back of this canyon is a scramble to get you access to the other areas, just follow the cliff for 5 mins when you see a large curving flake your at "Story Wall" and just around the corner is "Tiger Wall".

Go to 'Access Canyon' area for a location map...

1.3.1. Access Canyon 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

After walking along the amazing chossy overhangs, once you get to the end you will find the climbing at the back near the exit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Scumbag with a bumbag

Hard start or i was tired, easing middle then a nails hard slab at the top

Start: Hoist yourself up with some underclings then follow the vague arete

FA: Rick Phillips

23Sport 16m
2 Fine by Me! (project)

Start: Use the faint flake trending left, Put a long draw or stick clip 2nd bolt

FA: Rick Phillips

22Sport 20m
3 ** Simon's Dash for Cash

Hard start getting thru the pockets then up to mantles and easing to the scoop at top

Start: 4 mtrs left of corner

FA: Rick Phillips

21Sport 16m
4 * Jugging with Jasper

Starts in the corner then you layback the crack, which leads to a steepening head wall.

Start: In the corner, with the obvious layback corner at mid height

FA: Rick Phillips

17Sport 18m Vanessa Wills

a bit wet and dirty and leech attack

5 * Frank & Beans!

Starts 3 Mtrs Right of JJ climbs the pillar thru the little roof

Start: Just right of the corner on the pillar made of stacked blocks

Set by Rick Phillips

FA: Matthew Tranter

17Sport 16m Matt Tranter 4 years ago

Bolted by Rick Pillips

6 Beer Goggles Project adam Unknown
7 Wallwombat's project Sport

1.3.2. Tell your story area 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Large impressive cliffs up to 30m high. There is some good (bolted) crack routes plus the usual variety of slabs, walls and corners.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

100m right of 'Access' 'Gully'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Whiskey A Go-Go (project rick)

This climb starts on the big flake and takes the left hand line of bolts

Start: On black and orange wall just left of cave with large fern growing in corner.

FA: rick phillips, 2000

Sport 12m
2 CBGB (project rick)

Same start then head right and pull thru the orange bulge, then pick your way up the thin head wall to finish at SOHO's anchors

Start: Same as Whiskey a go go and follow the line of bolts right at third bolt.

FA: rick phillips, 2000

Sport 18m
3 Soho (project rick)

Hardish start leads to easy mid section with a punchy finish

Start: 3 mtrs right of large fern, straight up black wall.

FA: rick phillips, 2000

Sport 18m
4 * A Bang and a Wimpy

Start 10m left of Boogie Nights, has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

22Sport 15m, 9
5 * Boogie Nights

Thin,technical and sustained slab climbing.

Start: Start just left of the shrubery on the cliff.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

20Sport 18m, 10 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

sustained slab climbing

6 * Bring on the Fluffer

Feeling a bit deflated? This is the one for you. The black slab a few meters left of the corner.

Start: Start at the base of the corner.

FA: John Lattanzio

20Sport 18m, 10 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

crimy slab climbing.

7 ** Old Dog New Tricks

The left leaning crack in the wall 3m left of ICDI. Start at the base of the obvious crack. Some classic crack climbing and with face climbing at the top. Take small to medium cams and medium to large nuts.

FA: John Lattanzio, Jason Lammers

20Mixed 23m, 6 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

Mixed route. Classic crack climbing

8 *** Rockaholic !

Start 1m right of crack at obvious poocket. It's the one to do on this wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

24Sport 20m
9 ** Rock Out with your Cock Out

An ode to Hill !! Shared start with ICDI, then upwards leaning to the left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

22Sport 20m John Lattanzio 4 years ago

great climbing up a great line.

Daniel Mackey 4 years ago

ultra-rad reachy moves. Will come back to tick

10 I Cairn Do It!

No cairn needed!

The 1st move is the best move. Hardish bulgy start, then move out right towards the arete and up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

19Sport 18m, 9 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

good warm up for this area. steeper than it looks.

Daniel Mackey 4 years ago

I actually like the first move off the ground!

11 ** Bullet Proof

Best rock at the crag. Lovely marbled pockets up subtle prow. The start move goes via a sneaky move from the block on the right. Bonus crux at the top through the rooflet.

Start: Starts 1m left of Seeking 'Solace'.

25Sport 17m, 9
12 ** Seeking Solace in the Bottle

Strenuous and technical climbing up the line left of the obvious square cut roof with a couple of finger locks chucked in to boot.

Start: Start off the block under the square cut roof.

FA: Johnny Wog Dog, 2009

24Sport 23m, 11 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

Have a great layback sequence, not over till u clip the anchors.

13 Steel Salvation

OMG, a bolted crack! Carefully up just right of cave and trend left up to the flake crack.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

22Sport 20m Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Horay for RBs

14 ** Whatever Minger

20 mtrs right of square cut roof at off width crack.

FA: Rick Phillips

21Sport 22m John Lattanzio 4 years ago

Not 21 if you can climb cracks, more like 19

15 * Tell Your Story Walking

The left hand flake line. Start: In the corner. Climb the crack, surmount the little roof, the slabby corner to ledge and final headwall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

17Sport 16m, 9 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

keeps you thinking, take some cams if you scare easily.

Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Rad Feature

16 *** Flake Orgasm

Excellent climb that traverses in from "tell your story walking" until you get established on the flake.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

23Sport 20m, 12 Jason Lammers 3 years ago

RAD !

John Lattanzio 4 years ago

They don't get much better than this.

17 * Should'a Been a Contender

Batman up to 2nd bolt (or climb tree) then arete and nice face.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Flake' Orgasm on the arete.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2009

23Sport 20m, 10
18 ** Myopia

Great climbing once you get past the start shenanigans. Option 1 (the true free version!) involves climbing the tree for 5m and awkwardly traversing right. Option 2 (The better way) is just to stick clip the first bolt and hoist your way up batman style to the first holds. Stem up the hanging corner, then left under roof and finish up right line of bolts above.

22Sport 19m, 9
19 ** Coefficient of Drag

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

20Sport 20m, 12
20 Eyes Wide Shut (Monty Project)

The bouldery steep wall that gains the corner of 'Myopia' then straight out of the roof and up the arete.

Sport 25m, 14

1.3.3. Tiger wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tiger Tales

The line. Mega !

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

24Sport 30m Vanessa Wills

lovely sustained route

rick phillips

A super duper fantastic climb, been walking about in the bush for a year trying to find a wall li...

2 ** Godzilla

Right of TT with hard stopper crimpy move on the slab. Then pump your way to the top. The longest route in Nowra ??

FA: Monty, 2010

26Sport 35m, 15
3 * Infans Panthera

Stops b4 the cave.

FA: Monty, 2010

20Sport 20m, 8
4 * Panthera

Left of TT - climb to the top.

FA: Monty, 2010

21Sport 30m, 16

1.4. Hylands Lookout 124 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.432663, -35.004836

Description:

Five minute access, accessible by 2 Wheel Drive and in a quiet wilderness setting, the Hylands is a sandstone cliff comprising 3 sections, the north-western and south-western cliffs and the "middle ground" area in between. The rock quality varies from loose flaky scabs and conglomerate, to slightly sandy, to clean and compact. The south-western side has continuous vertical walls up to 30m high, whereas the northwestern side is more broken up but has some interesting short walls, prows, corners, and ledges. The cliffline on which Hylands is situated is extensive and there is the potential for further development, both at Hylands, and further along the cliffline (Utopia Crag). There may also be some bouldering potential.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Hylands 'Lookout' is on Deans Gap Road located off Braidwood road

about south-west of 'Nowra'. From 'Nowra', take the Braidwood

Road past the air force base, continuing along the newly sealed

road. Around 20 klms from 'Nowra' a major intersection will appear with Turpentine Road joining from the left. 50 metres past this intersection, is a dirt road on the right with some chunky blue-metal gravel at the start. This is Deans Gap Road and is marked as such on many maps.

From Canberra, Deans Gap Road is about 100m on the left past the first 'Turpentine Rd' sign.

Zero your odometer when you turn onto Deans Gap Rd – it passes under some power lines (turn left here for 'Panther' crga access) after about 3km; at 3.5km from Braidwood Rd take a road on the left which appears on a right-hand bend; 'Hylands Lookout' is a further 700m along at the end of this road. If your car can negotiate the last rocky section of the road, you will be deposited directly on top of the cliff. There is a great view down the valley, carved out by Boolijong Creek. The road goes left for another 50m which takes you directly to the top of the south-western cliff. Either scramble down the cairned gully/chimney here or for 'Utopia' crags walk south along cliff top (follow yellow tags in trees) for 300 mtrs and go down the wide gully and turn left, continue along the bottom of the cliff for another 150 mtrs and you should come to "Crash and Burn" wall, just around the corner is "Middle Earth" area and 150 mtrs further is "Punch and Judy" area. To get to "Wave Walls" walk another 200 mtrs along until you come across a section of orange cliff about 10 mtrs high the climbs start at the end at present.

1.4.1. North-Western side 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Approach:© (nmonteith)

The north-western side is to the right of the descent gully described above, but the climbs start about 100m (?) further along. The cliff on this side is more broken up than the south-western side, but has more variety in the rock features. There are some sections with superb, clean rock which require little

or no cleaning, but also a lot of loose stuff. There are several ways to access the north-western side since it is fairly broken up, and this will most likely depend on which climbs you would like to get to. Currently there are two climbs that start from

the bottom of the cliff – 'Toxic Beauty' and 'Igor the Lada'. Apart from 'Easy Tiger!', the rest of the climbs are on the Sunny Ledge and can be accessed via a rock scramble from the top of the cliff. The Sunny Ledge is a good place to climb in winter due to its northerly aspect. If you can get your car down the rough north track, you will end up on a flat rock platform, and about 50m out from here is the cliff edge, although finding the access to the climbs from here is tricky. 'Access' is described

within the climbs below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tree House

A nice boulder problem with a couple of bolts. Start at the groove, crank over bulge and up to the jug with the little tree growing behind it (try to grab this hold on the right-hand side to avoid breaking the tree's house!).

23Sport 6m, 3
1.4.1.1. Toxic Beauty area 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This sector is essentially at the other end of the Hylands cliff comprising Upper and Lower Middle Ground.

Approach:

Easiest approaoch is via the regular approach to the other Hylands Sectors. After descending the rungs, continue down the slope and walk along the cliff under Middle Ground Lower for at least 100m. After a little bush bashing keep your eyes open for a line of bolts up a pocketed light grey wall, this is Toxic Beauty.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Toxic Beauty

The name of this climb came from reading an article about chemicals in skin-care products. A little ripper with some nice pockets! Starts directly below 'Easy Tiger!' from the bottom of the cliff. Up the centre of the pocketed buttress and short wall at top, to anchor just below the ledge. If

continuing up 'Easy Tiger!' to the top of the cliff, the second can be belayed from the large tree on the ledge.

21Sport 18m, 6
2 * Easy Tiger!

A pleasant outing. Starts from the ledge directly above 'Toxic Beauty'. High step up groove, then left up short orange pockety wall, and over bulge. A good (optional) nut placement is possible on the grey wall above, otherwise head straight up past RB. Mantle onto ledge, and hoick yourself up over the small cave lip to the anchor.

15Sport 23m, 5
1.4.1.2. The Sunny Ledge 5 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Tiger! 23Unknown 6m
2 Corrugations

Follow the water worn feature straight up.

19Sport 10m, 5
3 DeWaltzing Matilda

3m right of 'Corrugations'. Slabby start and through juggy overlaps.

18Sport 11m, 5
4 ** Mind the Gap

On the adjacent buttress, the line in the middle of face. Carefully cross the gap (there is a RB for the belayer to clip into to prevent any falls off the ledge). Straight up, then some nice sequency moves veering left then right.

20Sport 11m, 6
5 Igor the Lada

Starts from the bottom of the cliff, directly below 'Mind the Gap'. Follow the line of bolts and either exit onto the Sunny Ledge, or continue up 'Mind the Gap'.

20Sport

1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The area just left of the green rungs. Awesome orange rock. A good winter destination.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Scramble down the access gully as for South Western area, but when you get to the green rungs, head right (looking out). The first route is about 30m from the rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Two Up

Starts just right of the crack on the steep orange wall then traverses around the arete, not as nice as "Spinner" and a touch harder.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

19Sport 15m, 8
2 * Come in Spinner

Same start as Two Up then just blast up thru the orange squeeze out onto the arete where it meets the roof. Finishes at Two Up anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

19Sport 18m, 8 Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

looks choss but climbs OK. Shame about rope drag

3 ** Sunset Boulevard

30 mtrs from the rungs at the first orange wall, has two pockets to start the climb then on the wall until you push out onto the arete

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

18Sport 20m Michael Helin 3 years ago

This is an awesome climb very hard start for an 18.

Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

oops. A nowra start

4 * Shenanigans

Starts in middle of black wall just around from Sunset Boulevard, then goes out to the right hand arete

FA: John Lattanzio & Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 15m, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** The Establishment

Climbs the right side of the the Establishment wall. Nice big jugs the whole way.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

21Sport 15m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Great warm-up route on uber jugs. Anchor is in a death block.

Jason Lammers 3 years ago

FA. Probably easier than 21

6 ** Ivy Bouncers

Your arms will feel like they got thumped by five bouncers in a basement. Start up ramp as for 'The Establishment', then take left line of rings up middle of immaculate orange face, joining back into 'The Establishment' at the fifth bolt with a wild lunge right to the arête.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

24Sport 15m, 8
7 ** Project - The Gentlemens Club

Still active please keep off. Up the centre of the wall L of Ivy Bouncers joining this just before the crux.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 25m, 6
8 * Bloodsport For All

The steep, overhanging corner crack sporting stainless steel. Stem, jam and layback - just like a trad route.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

21Sport 15m, 9 Oliver Story 2 years ago

Great route... something different

Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

a bolted crack! gone to the darkside

9 ** Marmion

Just after steep white pocketed wall on undercut orange arete. Bouldery start best to extend 4th draw

FA: Willz, 2000

24Sport 18m Oliver Story 2 years ago

Weird last bolt

10 Willy Bonker in the Chocolate Daiquiri (project Will)

Start: In undercut steep blank roof Yay!

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport 10m
11 Who's Ya Daddy

Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

29Sport 15m, 7
12 ** Dixie Normus

The rightward trending flake feature.

Start: Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'.

After tackling the intial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

25Sport 8m, 7 Matt Brooks 12 months ago

Cool!

John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Finally got this one. Some great sequences and a good addition to this wall.

13 * Long Dong Silver

Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then up wall above. Might be 25.

24Sport 10m, 5
14 Will-da-Beast (project Will)

Start: Just a slap right of Lap Dance, get both hands on a good hold and keep cranking...Ooooh Yeah!!!

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport 9m
15 ** Lap Dance for a Lazy Libido

Start: The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

25Sport 9m, 4 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Grade 25 without a doubt. Three days work and still no tick.

rick phillips 3 years ago

Great...No wait stellar moves on steep rock Hardest steep one for me!! but so happy

16 ** Lesbian Liberator

Start: Same start as Lap Dance then head left at second draw.

FA: Graham "Liberator" Fairburn, 2000

26Sport 9m
17 Seaman Staynes

Fun laybacking up wafer thin flake arete thingy 2m right of the wide crack.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

22Sport 9m, 3 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

As fun as sticking a pencil in your eye, sharp and painful.

John Lattanzio 3 years ago

A worthy warm up for this wall.

18 Eric Shaun

Start: 'Worthless' mini route. Very left hand end of steep pocketed wall. The last few moves are fun if you put the blinkers on and don't stem off the choss to the left. Not a good warm up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

19Sport 8m Jason Lammers 3 years ago

EotD

rick phillips 3 years ago

Gets better with age??...was a bit grainy but a few ascents may have cleaned it up...Now people a...

19 Project willz

Big orange arete with tough move at the end.

Sport 15m
20 * Rubics Cube

Starts in the middle of an orange wall, with funky looking features near the top. The track stops five mtrs on. Climb on the right side till second bolt then head back across onto the left wall before swapping back again, makes for a fun climb.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

16Sport 15m, 9 Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

excellent fun for the grade

Michael Helin 4 years ago

Very good climb i found it hard for a 16

21 Work is Such a Wank

At the curving flake Fun climb well protected for first lead at the grade, some techo moves for the grade....Just think outside the square..

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

14Sport 18m, 10 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

The start of a weekend of putting up topropes....

Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Nice warm up. Hard to grade.

1.4.3. South-Western side 50 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This side of the cliff is characterised by vertical faces, some are uninterrupted for the entire 30m height of the cliff. It tends to be easier to find your way around here, as all routes start from the bottom of the cliff. The lower half of this cliff tends to be more solid and so there are several climbs that end before the upper half. However some sections are good and climbs on these sections go to the top. Prior to 2005 there were quite a few routes done at this crag by persons unknown - and some of these have been retrobolted by recent climbers. If anyone knows more please get in touch!

The cliff is in the shade in the morning (till about 2pm) and gets the sun in the afternoon (although the bottom half of the cliff is shaded by the trees).

A short scramble is required to get to the bottom of the cliff. Locate a narrow gully with a few trees at the top to the right of the rock platform (marked with a rock cairn). Follow the gully down a chimney on the right, and then follow the line of least resistance down to the water-worn rock to a small ledge with a large tree. Below this tree on the left there is a short wall with big hand and foot holds sculpted out of the rock(another relic left by our alien predecessors). These days there is some nice green steel rungs to help you down as well.

At the bottom of the cliff, walk around to your left (facing out) and you will access the south-western side of the cliff where climbing starts.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

This side of the cliff is characterised by vertical faces, some are uninterrupted for the entire 30m height of the cliff. It tends to be easier to find your way around here, as all routes start from the bottom of the cliff. The lower half of this cliff tends to be more solid and so there are several climbs that end before the upper half. However some sections are good and climbs on these sections go to the top. Prior to 2005 there were quite a few routes done at this crag by persons unknown - and some of these have been retrobolted by recent climbers. If anyone knows more please get in touch!

The cliff is in the shade in the morning (till about 2pm) and gets the sun in the afternoon (although the bottom half of the cliff is shaded by the trees).

A short scramble is required to get to the bottom of the cliff. Locate a narrow gully with a few trees at the top to the right of the rock platform (marked with a rock cairn). Follow the gully down a chimney on the right, and then follow the line of least resistance down to the water-worn rock to a small ledge with a large tree. Below this tree on the left there is a short wall with big hand and foot holds sculpted out of the rock(another relic left by our alien predecessors). These days there is some nice green steel rungs to help you down as well.

At the bottom of the cliff, walk around to your left (facing out) and you will access the south-western side of the cliff where climbing starts.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Castor's Bullox

Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number.

Start: Two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box

FA: V Hill, 2000

25Sport 15m, 8
2 STTTTuck on U Glenns Project direct

Project

Start: Up WFW and then direct to Freeloader varient

Unknown
3 Dismember - Project Vero

Thin and hard. For those about to crimp we salute you!

Start: Same Batman start as 'Red Member'.

Unknown 15m
4 Project - Bundy

The right side of the Pillar.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport 12m, 6
1.4.3.1. Liquidity Wall 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The first wall you come to once down the descent gully (after a choss cave). The wall features a slabby start, bulge and crimpy finish. It is located right below the south carpark. More routes to come here!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fancy That!

Start: Easy start followed by a bit of a wander gets you to the steep fun section

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

19Sport 18m Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Nice jug pulling through the roof

rick phillips

Great in the roof part and a doddle at the bottom

2 * Liquidity

First route on the first good wall on the South West Side. Orange flakes to start, through bulge and up reachy wall above.

21Sport 20m, 7 rick phillips 3 years ago

bit of a mental game this one...will punish you if you scare easy...Like me anyway Glad its done...

3 *** Birds Over Burnouts

Long varied climbing with a wonderful finish headwall. First bolt of 'Liquidity' then take right line of bolts up small left facing corner, over roof and weave up technical headwall.

22Sport 25m, 10 Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

one or two moves maybe make it 22?

rick phillips 3 years ago

This is a cool climb...Nothing hard just keep plodding. Can climb this stuff all day everyday

4 Peugeot: French for Lemon!

Follow bolts along ramp to rest then crux move getting onto top head wall

Start: Under the big rightwards leaning ramp

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

18Sport 28m Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Hard slabbing at the bottom.

rick phillips

Crackling rosie is the better climb but the ramp makes for interesting climbing

5 ** Crackling Rosie

Long fun climb at about 18 all the way, a little exposed way up there!!!

Start: At crack 4 mtrs right of "Peugeot" follow crack and wall to finish at same anchors

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

18Sport 28m psmythe 1 years ago

Onsight in a downy. The only way to climb at Nowra :)

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

In the rain. Really good climb, quite varied

6 * Four Nil

Start just right of CR. Up thin wall.

FA: Will Watkins, 2010

25Sport 25m
7 STTTuck on U Freeloader

The direct line to Freeloader Variant. Start as for Wait Till Winter to the break then the thin crux and continue to join Freeloader Variant.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2012

24Sport 25m, 12
8 ** Freeloader Varient

As for WfW. After the crux move left and continue to top of the cliff. Great addition - although the crux is still WfW, probably 20 to the top..

FA: Glenn Jones, 2010

24Sport 25m
9 *** Wait till Winter

Tricky start left of AC. Up the thin wall, with plenty of RBs to show the way. Shared anchors with AC.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

24Sport 20m, 9 Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

stars and grade may be slightly overinflated. Nice though.

10 * Alien Crack

Follow obvious zigzagging crack. Classic trad climbing finishing of with a few bolts. (20m) FA Jason Lammers 13/03/2010

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

16Mixed 20m, 2 Lauren Chandler 3 years ago

Hmm... trade... not for me to lead

Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Still a bit loose in places. The top is hard for the grade.

1.4.3.2. Dark Energy Slab 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A low angle black textured slab

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 An Easy Day for a Lady

Before it had had its first female ascent, the Matterhorn in Switzerland was considered to be a tough climb, fit for only the strongest male mountaineers. After a woman climbed the Matterhorn, it was considered to be an easy day for a lady. The route starts on the left side of the gridbolted black slab 30m right of 'Liquidity'. Techy slab on little pockets then continues on the right-hand buttress, onto a ledge and up a short blunt arete. At the short headwall at the top, follow the line of least resistance to the right and the anchor is just over the top. Route needs a direct finish and a lower-off!

18Sport 29m, 9
2 A Loose Lady That's Easy

Start: Second climb on the black slab as you approach from left...Bit of thinking needed in the middle

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

19Sport 15m Boyd Robinson 2 years ago

Tricky slabbing, not a warm up!

Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Nice slabbing, cool moves once you get your feet right.

3 An Easy Lady on the Loose

Start: Four mtrs right of Easy Day, up slab to anchors, nice warm up

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

17Sport 15m Boyd Robinson 2 years ago

Nice and soft ; )

Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Nice route, even if it is a slab. Fair for the grade and a nice finish.

4 * Loose Oranges

Starts 2m right of DW on blank black slab. Has an interesting balancy mantle! Finish right at the anchors of 'Dark Energy'.

21Sport 15m, 6
5 ** Dark Energy

Very technical slab climbing up black blank wall. Straight up on finger scoops. Don't try this one on a hot day it is quite engaging for a number of thin sequences.

Start: At black slab three meters left of the arete.

23Sport 15m, 5
6 ** Nazomi

A balancy and technical arete on the right edge of this wall. Quite sustained and a little sandy.

22Sport 15m, 5 Peter Nettlefold 11 months ago

Great balancy route. Nice compact gritty rock.

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

very dirty. Hold broke. I think it would be good.

1.4.3.3. Zombie Wall 7 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mon Zombie

A good climb up the other side of the arete. When you get towards the top remember that line from the favourite porn movie and "Slap that Butt" cos if you don't the next line from the movie will instantly come to mind, "yo bro watch the wind!"

Start: Same start as for 'Nazomi'.

FA: V Hill, 2010

21Sport 10m, 7
2 Mon Zombie Right Hand Start

A bit crunchy. Will probably never get a repeat as it puts a hard start on a fun route and nobody wants that.

Start: Around corner to the right of previous two climbs.

FA: Hill

21Sport 10m, 3
3 * Votre Dernier Chance

Wanders away from the third bolt to the left a bit to avoid any hard climbing. Otherwise a fine slabby wall with some interesting foot holds or lack there of.

Start: Three meters right of the alternative start to Mon Zombie

FA: Hill

21Sport 12m, 9
4 Hill Project

Start: Shares same start as the previous route. Approximately three meters right of arete.

FA: Hill

Sport Project 15m, 11
5 * Another Piece of Crap

A nice looking orange wall. Takes the line up the disjointed flake system. The easier climbing being in the top section. Plenty of bolts to keep even the biggest girlies happy.

FA: Hill, 2011

23Sport 20m, 10
6 * Benga Benga To The Death

Unless the photo Topo gets corrected ignore it. Great climbing across the orange part of the wall on classic goutes deau and other large pockets. When you get to the crux shout BENGA BENGA and keep going. The black stuff looks crappy but is still good climbing. If your feet fall off trade in your boots for better rubber.

Start: Off the top of the large block. Same start as 'Testeagles'.

FA: Hill

24Sport 18m, 11
7 * Testeagles

Great fun bridging up the corner.

FA: Hill

20Sport 18m, 9
1.4.3.4. Mystery Wall 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Just right of Zombie Wall, this impressive looking vertical wall with a striking similarity to the Blue Mountains.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Unleash The Bitch

Has a fantastic gritstone like section just off the ledge near the bottom. The climb sports more bolts than probably necessary, but you wont hit the ledge anymore if you clip them all. Lower off rings available before the choss top or go thru to the rings over the top edge.

Start: The first line of bolts right of the corner on the large vertical wall.

FA: Alien Visitation Crew additional bolts G Hill, 2000

24Sport 29m, 14
2 * Alien Invasion

A good rest in the middle breaks the action on this route. Next route left of Alien Anal Academy. Up wall following the long line of bolts to juggy finish. Or go thru to top on even extra crap rock.

FA: Hill, 2010

22Sport Project 29m, 14 Lauren Chandler 3 years ago

... Is currently marked as a project,,, but isn't. It is graded 22

3 ** Alien Anal Academy

Technical wall climbing to get through to the ledge without busting your rectum out of its hiding place. Follow the tonnes of bolts through the orange band which makes the climb worth doing i must add. At the confusing conglomerate section wiggle a little right then back thru to the line on thin crimps. You have it in the bag now so punch thru to the top without bothering to clip any extra bolts. Huge jugs to finish. End at the two lower offs or if you have real guts push it thru the extra choss rock to exit over the top. You will need more draws for this though.

FA: Hill, 2010

24Sport 28m, 14
4 ** King of Pop

Steep right trending line crossing a black streak and finishing up the featured orange stuff. Funky with a dramatic and unlikely finish.

Start: 4th line of rings.

23Sport 20m, 8 rick phillips

Hard to tell if the story of this climb has two hard cruxs and one where you dont really want it?...

5 ** Piggy in the Middle

Up HR until 3rd bolt, then directly up into orange rock. Finish on the last few bolts on KoP. Great Direct line.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

23Sport 20m, 9 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

A little spoogy but after the pain of the cave it was magnificent rock!

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Great route and dry in mild drizzle.

6 * Head Rush

Awesome splitter hand crack to techy wall finish on bolts. A great looking line. Technical rather than too strenuous at the crux. Great rock than will stay clean unless the ferns grow back.

Start: 3m right of King Of Pop at vertical hand crack.

FA: Alien Visitation Crew additional bolts by G Hill, 2000

21Sport 20m, 10 Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

nice features. i think a hold broke...

Jason Lammers

Bolted Crack, Hill Gold.

1.4.3.5. Pillar Environs 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The free standing pillar and vertical black wall to the right of it. 20m right of Mystery Wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Learn to Swim

Climb up ringbolts on leftside of pillar you can use the chimney.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

16Sport 12m, 5 Michael Helin 4 years ago

2nd Ascent

2 Open Easy Project

Right side of pillar

Sport 10m
3 Terror Australis

A bit strange - an adventure! Starts in the middle of the slabby (south) side of the pinnacle 20m right of Mystery Wall. Scramble up mossy slab to the small ledge below the pinnacle. Follow bolts up slab (with a tricky move in the middle, which is easier if you are tall) to top of pinnacle. Step across the gap onto the face and follow bolts on flakey crimps to anchor at the top of the wall.

21Sport 27m, 8
1.4.3.6. Member's Only 9 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Hard crimpy vertical wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Remember

A generally solid wall climb with a good first third. Plenty of bolts with generally sound rock except for the dreaded conglomerate band.

Start: Five meters right of TA. On main wall at small left facing corner.

FA: G Hill, 2010

22Sport 20m, 11
2 ** Castor's Bullox

Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Start two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box Up the short vertical rut section and push out to the left to gain jugs in the lower middle of the wall. Up to offset flake and then move left to follow bolts to the top.

FA: V. Hill, 2011

25Sport 15m, 8
3 ** Coffee Powered Shit Box

Great climbing on good sized holds. No razor blade finger stuffing crimpers here. All vicious edges have been dealt with and anything you snap off is because you're off route.

Start: At crack line that leads up towards end of obvious left leading ramp that bisects the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2010

22Sport 15m, 8 Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

About 4 metres of nice climbing,the rest is summed up by the name. I should have known better tha...

4 ** September

Great pockets and kind edges to the top. Easy for the grade if you calibrate it from the original route on this wall 'Black Mamba'.

Start: Two meters right of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Or a little left of the true start to the obvious bisecting ramp.

FA: G Hill, 2010

21Sport 16m, 8
5 * Organ Pipe Chocolate Cream

A direct to 'September' which adds even thinner climbing to the already fine start.

Start: As for 'September'

FA: G Hill, 2010

23Sport 14m, 8
6 * Black Mamba

About 8m right of the pinnacle on the black face. Thin and crimpy finger-shredding fun! Start up on obvious juggy feature, and straight up on evil crimps, finishing below the big cave and sandy ledge.

24Sport 16m, 5
7 ** Black Member

Great climbing up a slightly slabby wall. No real hard moves just a series of grade 20 sequences to the top. The bolts are placed to protect any unfortunate snap offs you may get on the thin flakes. No finger shredding at all on this one, all tame jugs.

Start: Five meters to the right of BM. At obvious hole in the wall.

FA: V Hill, 2010

22Sport 15m, 10 Peter Nettlefold 11 months ago

Great flakey wall. Few breakable holds still (a few less now), but great climbing. Stoked on th...

8 *** Weenie (Member)

Reasonably sustained wall climbing with a crux near the top. Grade 16 all the way to the anchors.

Start: Same as 'Black Member' under hole in wall.

FA: V Hill, 2010

22Sport 15m, 10 Peter Nettlefold 10 months ago

Really good thin wall climb. Quite sustained in the middle/top section, on good crimps. Great.

rick phillips

Was 18 for about a week...Great moves on this climb....Actually this wall has great climbing but ...

9 ** Red Member

Another solid wall climb, that keeps it's interest until almost the top before it gives up. The batman start avoids a rather strenuous start from the flake on the left.

Start: Three meters right of BM. Batman to first bolt.

FA: G Hill, 2010

22Sport 15m, 8
1.4.3.7. Busted Arse Wall 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The vertical wall just right of the obvious corner crack.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sporty Trad - Bundy Project

Awkward start, then battle up the cracks.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

20Sport 18m
2 *** Busted-arse Ol' Coot

Start 8m right of the corner at the thin crack. Up the crack then trend left on thin holds.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

21Sport 18m, 10 David O'Donnell 3 years ago

fighting like a motherfucker- thanks for the draws dude

Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

Footer broke first go. Very Nowra start. Should clean up well.

3 * Pucker Up

Start as for Busted-arse Ol Coot. At the top of the crack go right on the flake line heading back left near the top to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 1910

21Sport 16m, 8 John Lattanzio 3 years ago

Good climbing with and interesting sequence up high.

4 * Kiss This!

3 meters right of BaOC. Muscle onto the flake and climb with increasing difficulty until it relents to a jug haul.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

20Sport 15m, 8 John Lattanzio 3 years ago

Another good route on this wall.

5 Whistling Sphincter

Climb the crack just right of Kiss This! Extra bolts have been added since initial ascent.

FFA: Jon Porter, 2010

FA: Jon Porter, 2010

17Sport 18m, 9 Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Nasty, very nasty. Not sure who was madder, Jon for bolting it or me for going above the third b...

John Lattanzio 3 years ago

May need trad gear if you scare easily, intend to add bolts.

1.4.4. No Man's Land 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

Approach as for Utopia, at the bottom of the first gully turn right and follow the track about 100m to first climbs. The routes are described right to left from this approach. Alternatively can be approached from Hylands Lookout, Busted Arse area by walking along the base of the cliff.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

The area between Hylands and 'Utopia'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 oopps Glenn really hard project

Hard start trend right easier as you move up. 3 metres right of Leeched as Bro.

Sport Project
2 *** Leeched as Bro

Straight up above the stump via 10 bolts with a rest halfway.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2010

22Sport 30m, 10
3 Ho's B4 Bros(Project Rick)

3m left of Leech as Bro.

Unknown Project 30m
4 Willis Project

Half bolted, but no more steel. When is the next batch of 1000m steel coming ?

3m left of Ho's B4 Bros.

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport
5 Glenn Project

hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up

Start: just right of the corner

Hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up. just right of the corner

Unknown
6 Driven to Tears(Project Wogdog)

20m further left. The unmistakable thin crack in the yellow wall.

Sport Project 12m, 7

1.4.5. Utopia 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

A great little area with a variety of routes on good rock, many routes stay dry in wet weather. From the Hylands Lookout carpark walk south (left looking out) along the cliff top and pick up a well worn track marked with yellow tape, at the first gully, drop down and follow the base of the cliff to Crash and Burn Area. Alternativly, continue walking past the gully along the top of the cliff for about 100m until you reach a chimney with a little bridge at its top. Drop down this, a little squeezy, under a large jambed chockstone to reach the Hells Gate and Middle Earth Wall.

1.4.5.1. Crash and Burn Area 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

The slightly overhanging orange and black wall with excellent rock and split by a right to left diagonal crack.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Access by walking down the first wide gully you come to and go left and walk about 100m to this lovely wall. Routes described from left to right from this approach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Scorched Earth

Fine climb with deceptive crux

FA: Rick Phillips

23Sport 18m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

I thought it was fun....

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

A bit stop start. Middle was good but didn't really enjoy start and finish due to fragile rock.

2 Crash and Burn

Punchy bouldery start following bolts that trend right

Start: In the cave under the end of the left leaning crack.

FA: Rick Phillips

18Sport 12m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Good warm up

Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Potentially snappy down low, fun though

3 * Crack and Burn

Could be a little harder if your technique is lacking (like mine!) Starts up left leaning crack to join crash and burn at three quarter hieght

FA: Rock Phillips

20Sport 15m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

It was easier when I didnt try to jamb

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

I thought this was the 18 and it shut me down as the morning warmup!

4 ** Removalist

Like lifting mini bar fridges

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

24Sport 12m Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Felt hard for grade, though I did all moves eventually!

Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Fridge Lifting

5 * Smash and Grab (project Rick)

Thin and balancy climbing

Start: Starts on right hand arete

FA: Rick Phillips

24Sport 12m
1.4.5.2. Middle Earth Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Stunning white wall with oh so many features on it!

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Suck in ya guts and squeeze down the access chimney (really if you don't wear size 34 or less your stuck!)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Stuck in the middle with you

Technical start leads to an easing mid section, milk the rest as the top gets very steep

Start: Start off the block and climb the blunt flake to begin.

FA: Rick Phillips

23Sport 25m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Possibly the best route at Utopia? Great length and moves.

sharon tsetong 4 years ago

hard start,

2 ** Water Works

Great climb fun all the way

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

22Sport 15m, 8 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Shut me down completely. I couldn't work out the thin crux moves.

John Lattanzio 4 years ago

nice slabby crux.

3 Broken Bishop

Thin climbing with a technical crux. Start: 15 mtrs down from the chimney, up a little slab apron. Follow the line of bolts that head left and on to an easier flake.

FA: Simon Vaughn, 2010

21Sport 15m, 8 Peter Nettlefold 9 months ago

Nice route on good rock. The crux is quite short, and more positive than it looked.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

A bit thin for my weak fingers

4 ** Keyboard Bruises

Sharpen up your finger nails for this one, great moves on super rock

Start: 3 mtrs left of crack, as for Broken Bishop then take the right line of bolts. Leave your office hands at home for this one!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

22Sport 10m, 5 Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

It was too cold....

sharon tsetong 4 years ago

very hard move for me- crimps and body tension galore

5 Not Fade Away

Climbs the flake that leads to another flake, that leads to another flake!

Start: At the eastern end of the wall, just left of the crack, shares Keyboard Bruises anchors

FA: Brent Papek, 2010

17Sport 10m, 6 Peter Nettlefold 9 months ago

Didn't really enjoy the moves on this one. Hard to start without the crack/chimney.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Nice flake feature

6 Busted Blue Flower

A vertical warm up with a hardish start and nice crux

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

18Sport 10m, 5 Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

A vertical warm up with a hardish start and nice crux

John Lattanzio 4 years ago

not bad

7 Hells Gate

First Climb on the wall once you exit the Hells Mouth Zorn.

FA: Matthew Tranter, 2009

16Sport 10m, 5 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

a bit crumbly, should clean up, nice moves.

8 Cerberus

Dirty, dirty, dirty route; but great fun moves.

Will get better with a few good kickings.

Balance up and control that barn dooring, grit style.

Start: Start in the entrance of the Hells Mouth Decent gully.

FA: Matthew Tranter, 2009

18Sport 9m, 3 sharon tsetong 4 years ago

long move

John Lattanzio 4 years ago

more like 16

1.4.5.3. Halfway House 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

75 mtrs south of Middle earth area

"Mash 4077" starts up left of Huge flake

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mash 4077

Start: The middle line on the huge flake, just right of a massive burnt tree halfway up cliff

FA: Morgan "Radar" Davis, 2000

14Sport 11m
2 * Hot lips McGurty

Start: Up the right hand side of mega flake

FA: Alex "Gurty" Morris, 2000

12Sport 11m
1.4.5.4. Bushwhacked Area 5 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The area just before Punch and Judy and arond the corner from The Halfway House. The obvious grey buttress split by a crack and bounded by two chimneys and the adjacent overhung grey wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snapped Project GCJ

Up the arete 3 bolts to lower off

Start: Off block 3 metres left of Bushwacked

Sport 10m
2 *** Bushwhacked

Start 3m left of the obvious crack. Climb to the ledge, then the technical slab and then steeper ground to join the crack to anchors of Crack, Back n Sack.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

25Sport 20m, 12 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

A long route that's steep and technical.

3 * Crack,Back n Sack

The obvious crack splitting this wall. Mixed route with trad gear needed down low, bolts up higher to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

22Mixed 20m, 6 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

Not much genuine crack climbing in this one, enjoy.

4 * The Dog's Bollocks

Starts off a ledge gained by batmaning up the fixed rope. The corner behind the big tree.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

18Sport 12m, 7 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

Steep climbing on good holds.

5 The Duck's Nuts(Project Wogdog)

The diagonal line in the middle of leaning wall.

Sport 15m, 10
1.4.5.5. Punch & Judy Area 14 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A compact little sector with excellent rock capped by a large roof. The routes here vary from slab to steep face and pockets.

Approach:

Just a few meters beyond Bushwhacked Area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Ground Zero

Pumpy start and a little techo finish

Start: Same as Peas in pod but trends left along large flake

FA: rick phillips

21Sport 9m Matt Tranter 4 years ago

nice little route with a small sting in the tail.

rick phillips

Short climb up an interesting feature, not too shabby

2 * Power of One

Pumpy then just pumpy

Start: Same as Peas in pod but climbs left hand side of overhanging arete, some weak scallywags have found an option of McDougling out left and making the climb a little easier. Your choice!

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 9m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Punchy big move - pumpy.

rick phillips

keeping left of the arete...there is an obvious mcdougal which makes it a little easier

3 ** Two Peas in a Pod

Steep and pumpy start and crimpy techo finish

Start: At the leaning arete

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

23Sport 15m, 9 Ryan Weller 2 years ago

techno finish in the rain!

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Really fun big pockets

4 ** Three Blind Mice

Eat your spinach for this one, short and steep on great rock.

Start: 3 mtrs right of two peas. Shares same start as Four and Twenty. Up two bolts then goes left to anchors over the lip

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

23Sport 9m, 7 Ryan Weller 2 years ago

fun moves, pumpy if you don't move!

Vanessa Wills 3 years ago

much easier on a cool day

5 ** Four & Twenty Blackbirds

Punchy climbing all the way

Start: Same as Blind mice but trends slightly right to hard mantle, anchors set back over the top

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

24Sport 9m Jason Lammers

Tricky mantle last move...

rick phillips

Just when you think its over out comes a hard mantle

6 Five O'Clock Shadow

Technical climbing packed into a short route

Start: Just right around the arete then takes line of bolts out left

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

18Sport 10m Peter Nettlefold 9 months ago

Ok route, with a few interesting moves

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Not bad for a rainy day

7 * Potato Pause 1

Crux off the ground to hard move high

FA: Simon Vaughan

23Sport 10m, 5 Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Tricky start

rick phillips

A filler

8 Potato Pause 2

Hard pulls at the start and finicky at the top

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

21Sport 10m, 5 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Hard start

Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Tricky start, Tricky finish

9 Six Pack (project Rick)

Pump up your guns and traverse out left under the roof to anchors around the nose and over the lip

Start: From the anchors of Five o'clock shadow continue steeply thru the roof

FA: Rick Phillips), 2000

Sport 10m
10 Seven Eleven

Start: Just right of Five o'clock shadow, slab moves increasing with difficulty with height

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

20Sport 10m Peter Nettlefold 9 months ago

Very thin crux. Hard to grade as the crux is quite short, but its harder than 20 I think.

Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Ooops

11 Hot August Night

Start: At the vague corner go up the left hand side of flake

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

15Sport 8m Michael Helin 3 years ago

Nice warmup should be longer.

rick phillips

One or Two hard moves over to quickly, but stays dry in all conditions

12 La Rambla

The obvious extension to HAN to C9 anchors. How else to you get ur draws off C9 at the EOTD.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

16Sport 10m, 6 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Easy enough

13 ** Cloud Nine

Start: 2 mtrs right of "August Night" and punch up thru the bulge

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

24Sport 10m Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Some nice moments, didnt trust the belayer with his 40 second feed to lead on this one.

Ryan Weller 2 years ago

i suck

14 Common as Muck

Nice climbing marred only by a little sand

Start: Start at the sandy cave at the base of the little corner.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

18Sport 13m, 7 Ryan Weller 2 years ago

a little sandy but not bad. i kinda liked it! good feet around

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Worst route at New Nowra? The start is terrible.

1.4.5.6. The Cinema Strip 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
Description:© (matttranter)

Large steep wall bound on the left by a large chimney and burnt tree. Lots of potential for hard routes up this cool featured rock.

Approach:© (matttranter)

50m further along the cliff line from Punch and Judy Area. Connects with the 'Wave Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blu Ray Charles

Project by Simon Vaughan

Make the first break without to many problems then try to get established on the middle section that has a worrying lack of holds. Hard pulls to a great break and then a brilliant top section.

Unknown 18m
1.4.5.7. Wave Walls 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Well its the first time i have ever seen cliffs stacked in parallel with ten mtrs between them.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Walk about 50m past Punch and Judy Sector to reach The Cinema Strip and Wave Wall a few meters beyond.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Konnichi Wa

Easy moves up flake then pull down hard for the rest

Start: Middle of wall up the obvious left leaning flake

FA: rick phillips

20Sport 10m Matt Tranter 4 years ago

Great jug pulling.

Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Fun

2 * Salute'

Fun jugging between great holds

Start: 2 mtrs right of 'Konnichi Wa', jump or use cheat rock

FA: rick phillips

21Sport 11m Matt Tranter 4 years ago

Good jug pulling. Locate the hidden hold on the bulge and it is easier than the grade. Miss it an...

Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Fun

3 * Guten Tag

Harder start than salute but easier finish

Start: 2 mtrs right of Salut

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 11m
4 Trampoline Triceps

Pull hard past the first bulges and then commit to hard moves to big jugs.

Don't fall from the top easy section!

Start: Last route on the 'Wave Wall'.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

21 RSport 9m, 3

1.5. Lassiter's 91 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.465008, -35.059152

Description:

Easy access along the base of the crag. There will be quite a concentration of routes that will be mostly 15m to 25m high. About a hundred routes in this new area eventually from grade 10 to grade 30.

Approach:

Really just an extension of the Gold Mine cliff. A five minute flat walk through the bush to get to the top of the cliff, take the obvious tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk accross the top of the cliff (tagged) to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope and rungs to help you get down.. There is also another access gully/ramp at the other end of the crag (Sluice Box sector) which is roped and has rungs. It's a little harder to negotiate as it is more exposed and steeper and probably better as and exit from the crag than an approach. From the main track, locate a little gully on your right about 40m before you get to the cliff edge, follow the tagged track for about 100m to the next obvious little gully. Rope and rungs at the base of this gully.

As per the Goldmine..

  1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.

  2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.

  3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.

  4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"

  5. 4.5km: Continue along this road until the road swings around to the left (just before big puddle). Look for the obvious Parking on the side of the road.

Look for the tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk accross the top of the cliff to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope to help you get down.

1.5.1. Fucktardia 10 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A bit further on past the "The Mullock Heap"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Wogdog 8

Takes the obvious seam on orange rock under the large roof.

Sport Project 12m, 8
2 *** Five Star Dreams

Start as for PW 8. Takes the right hand line up the lovely orange wall. Tough start into the seam, after the third bolt step right and climb the wall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 14m, 8 John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Has a tough start but well worth the effort. Great climbing on superb rock.

3 Rough, Raw and Ranting

Start just left of a wide crack in a corner 8m before Wicked Ways. Climbs the grey wall under a large, chossy cave on good rock, then through the roof and little corner to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

20Sport 18m, 11 John Lattanzio 1 years ago

The typical Lassiter's start to gain the wall and a tough roof to finish, good fun.

4 * Wiggle Room

Start at the wide crack in the corner. Batman the start to avoid an unpleasant grovel in the undercut offwidth (The batman start has been eliminated, might be a little harder). Once over the undercut, climb the grey slab on great rock to a ticky move before the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

18Sport 16m, 9 John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Quite good and interesting once the start is done with, batmaning avoids the unpleasantness.

5 Wicked Ways

Starts at the undercut chimney about 60m right of Money Shot. Tackle the awkward start and bridge to gain the right wall then on to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

16Sport 15m, 6 Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Yeah well, um, maybe once is too many on this one...

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Some awkward bridging to start then nice face climbing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Project Wogdog 6

Starts at a steep crack and the right end of the last steep rock of this sector.

Sport Project 16m, 11
7 Project - Bundy prou

Up tube to break then diagonally left under big roof and up on exposed jugs to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 22m Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Hard for fat people

8 ** Flight of the Fucktards

Start at right end of cave. Climb up on jugs to exciting move thru the roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

21Sport 22m, 9 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

A quick repeat on bundys new rig. Good long route with plenty of rests and a good steel crux.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Exciting up there !!

9 Macmillan Madness

Takes the arete and wall 1m right of the little corner. Pretty nice wall !!

FA: Bob Macmillan, 2012

16Sport 12m, 7 Matt Tranter 1 years ago

Still snappy.

10 * Booty Call

Start 10m right of Macmillan Madness and around the corner. Climb the wall to a ledge, then slab and roof to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

19Sport 12m, 8 John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Quite good. Care needs to be taken clipping the bolt under the roof.

1.5.2. The Mullock Heap 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Apon reaching the bottom of the descent gully turn left (facing out) and walk around the corner under the overhangs where it opens up to 20m walls with another shorter wall at right-angles further ahead. This is the Mullock Heap Area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fingers

Hard fingery start, but eases off the higher you go. Start just right of 1st bolt.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 12m, 4 Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

2nd shot. Great for the first two bolts. Then then quality drops right off.

Rob Knight 1 years ago

Really is all over at the first cave - 2 move wonder??? Second shot.

2 Knucklehead

Start 3m right of Fingers and just left of the cleft and fern. Climb the left side of the cave then the flake line to top. The bouldery start is over quickly then pleasant climbing to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 15m, 7 Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Not sure about the start. The rest is a run out doodle...

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

The bouldery start detracts from the rest of the climb, which is easier and quit good.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Shoulders on Snowy

Starts 8m right of descent gully, at small waist high tree stump below steep hand crack. Stand on stump to start then take left line of bolts past scoop and up nice juggy headwall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

18Sport 16m Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Didn't need to jam! Loved the top. Worth a star.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Some fun jug pulling and a bit pumpy. Good warmup.

4 Dueling Drills

Same steep handcrack start as previous route, then take right line of bolts which trends right up steepish grey shield.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

18Sport 17m John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Did the start this time without one jamb, not a bad climb, good adventure.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Ok jug haul with tricky start

5 ** First World Problem

Jam up the twin cracks then at second bolt take the left line of bolts traversing under roof. Follow lower line of bolts using little edges all the way to join into Dueling Drills. Finish up headwall. Long runners useful to stop rope drag.

FA: Neil monteith, 2011

22Sport 20m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Great fingery traverse on the crux

6 Project - Neil

Halfway along left traverse on 'First World Problem' go out bulge via heuco and up steep fingerery grey wall above. Will be 26? Bolted by Neil Monteith who isn't sure he can do the moves,

Sport 20m Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Shame about the desperate start or the route would be mega. Did the crux move pretty easy but bai...

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Bloody hard crux through the bulge. Sigh.

7 ** Hard Working Hands

 20m right from the descent gully. Twin hand cracks up bulging wall then fantastic traverse right across face under bulging wall then up juggy face above. Superb marbled rock. If you can't jam you might have serious problems getting off the ground.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

20Sport 18m Adam Bramwell 1 years ago

Ok can someone show me how this is 20 please? Maybe with a two foot cairn

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

A bit hard if you cant actually reach the crack to start. Traverse is also hard but the good bit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Shadrach Memorial

The leftmost traverse. Funky last move.

FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2012

16Sport 20m Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Sorta fun..

9 The Darkness

Right to left leading line up a big black featured slab.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

18Sport 17m Matt Tranter 1 years ago

Nice.

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Brutal getting off ground

10 ** AeroPress

The middle climb on this wall. As per the Darkness, and then thru crimpy buldge. Best on this wall.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw & Jason Lammers, 2012

21Sport 16m Matt Tranter 1 years ago

Nice.

John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Thin and sustained climbing.

11 * Heart of Darkness

Start as for The Darkness. First two bolts of TD then straight up, finishing with a slab.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

20Sport 13m, 8 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Meh.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Quite tricky in some places. I like this one !!

12 When you Smile at me I go to Rehab

Up the short wall between the grey and white streaks.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

18Sport 10m, 4 Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

Not too bad, a little fragile in places.

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Haha I forgot I climbed this. Wicked fun for such a short route. Has the best rock around even if...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Ego Tango

Leftmost route on this wall. Tricky start to rest and up to anchors. Its hard to resist the jugs on the right, but if you go direct on the finger pockets its 24.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 15m, 7 John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Not bad, a little contrived.

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Fun either way- the start is tricky

14 ** Spot Gold

The rather attractive arete on the left side of the orange wall capped with a roof. The middle route on this wall. Thin and technical start leads to sustained awesome jugs.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 13m, 8 Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

Not bad for a slabby crux. 2nd shot.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

The peanut gallery loved this one :-)

15 ** A Spot Pumpy

Link-up :) Starts up the great pockets and face holds of spot gold then finishs up the steep part of rumpy pumpy.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

23Sport 13m, 9 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

I nice little link with the best of both climbs. Had to punch it at the crux, glad it was a jug ...

16 ** Goldielynx

Start the ramp immediately right of 'Spot Gold'. Up line to cave then traverse left to finish up the 'Spot Gold Arete'

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

19Sport 14m, 8 Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

Pumpy for a 19. Start not that easy either.

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Good warm up with the top arête being a bit pumper then it looks.

17 ** Rumpy Pumpy

Start on the ramp 2m right of Spot Gold. Up the line immediatly left of the cave and through the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 14m, 9 Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

Easy onsight because of the no hands rest just before the crux.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

If only I knew where to go. Not too hard with the right sequence !!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** Silver Bull

The left hand route on the attractive wall adjacent to the Spot Gold wall. Start off the ramp below the left hand cave. Climb the wall, staying out of the cave for full value. Great climbing on good rock.

FA: Jon Porter, 2011

12Sport 14m, 8 Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Really good. Great beginners lead !

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Great climbing, stay out of the cave for full value.

19 Money Shot

Start at the undercut, hanging arete, 4m right of Silver Bull. After the tricky undercut start, climb the arete, traverse left under the cave and up the steep wall past some dubious but solid rock to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

16Sport 15m, 7 Stephen Hawkshaw 1 years ago

Scary

Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Exciting getting to the 2nd bolt.

1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The walls leading around right (looking out) as you come down the descent gully. The first section is black with climbing gym sized holds on it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Team Shire cafe experience

Start on the right side of EP wall. Tricky start to gain flake and up to the right on pockets, then up on jugs.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

15Sport 15m Sebastian Sakowicz 10 months ago

First route after hernia op. Didn't really trust much of the rock.

Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Best of the three warm ups I think. Pretty good

2 Easy Pickings

The lefthand route on the first wall leading leftward at the arete to anchors up high.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

14Sport 15m Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Short but flows well.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

The start holds felt very portable. I'm not a fan of the black rock around here.

3 Easy Peasy

As for 'Easy Pickings', then straight up to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

14Sport 10m Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Great warm up route.

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Not bad.

4 Take Me I'm Yours

Starts at the crack/corner 4m left of Easy Pickings, under the overhang. An awkward start followed by a rest. Up to the roof then punch out right and on to jugs and an easy wall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

24Sport 15m, 8 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

I kind of went for the pre first ascent flash, didn't weight the anchors but I will take the tick...

John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Finally got the right sequence, thanx Ben.

5 Project Glenn Jones

Start around the corner from EP at the right hand crack under the roof.

FA: Glenn Jones

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Girlie Action

Start at the base of the slender wall left of the overhang. Climb the leaning arete.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

18Sport 12m, 7 Sebastian Sakowicz 10 months ago

Dodgy start then its very good after that.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

yeah pretty good.

7 Thick and Thirsty

Start as per GA, then climb the left side of the wall. Climbs better than it looks.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 12m, 7 Sebastian Sakowicz 10 months ago

Again dodgy start then its good but abit run out near the top with the other wall sort of behind ...

Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Hey John, did you run out of bolts before the top? Hard bottom and worrysome top.

8 The United Nations

Slab leading to small roof with the crux at the main overlap. Start 3 metres further left from Thick and Thirsty at the large up rooted tree.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

18Sport 12m, 7 Sebastian Sakowicz 10 months ago

This felt hard for 18. Very good climbing though.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Why does this stop half way up the route ? Needs extending to the top.

9 ** Flame then Fire
  1. Up flake to belay on party ledge or continue straight through to next pitch; 4RB to DRB LO - 12m 14
  2. Punch overlaps of steepness past Perma draw on perfect grey stuff - airy finish; 5RB to DRB LO - 10m 21 Start at the obvious flake line next to the tree stump, 15 metres left of 'The United Nations' You can do this in one with no drag however it's more social to belay on the big ledge.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

21Sport 22m, 9 Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Great top pitch. Exposed roof pulling with a spicy finnish. 2nd ascent.

1.5.4. Metalloid Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A compact little wall about 50m past the Easy Pickings Walls and over a little rise about 15m right of the obvious Rare Earth Buttress, capped by an obvious triangular pointy roof.

Approach:

After the descent gully walk right (looking out) past Easy Pickings Walls and a vertical wall to the narrow Metalloid Wall with a righthand arete, and Rare Earth buttress in the background to the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Show

Start 4m left of Spare a Thought at crackline. Follow the crackline (the flake is solid, believe it or not) and on through the steepening to anchors. Will be desperatly hard after rain of if seeping.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 11m, 7 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

OK.Harder if wet or seeping.

2 * Suffer in Silence

Start 2m left of Spare a Thought. The line diagonally leftward, through a roof and onward to anchors. The top seeps after heavy rain, pointless getting on it then. An engaging sequence at the start leads to easier climbing taking full advantage of the rest midway, then the roof to the anchors. Resist the urge to campus off the flake in the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

22Sport 12m, 8 Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Nice and easy today

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Good fun. Crispy crimps down low and fun jugs up high. Flakes felt a little creaky. More glue req...

3 *** Spare a Thought

Starts at the obvious crack 4m left of the right hand end of the wall. Up crack then veer right at the steepening then back to the crack.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 12m, 7 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Finger locking fun. A bit stiff at 21 but lots of fun.

Stephen Hawkshaw 1 years ago

Fun crack and roof

4 * Brazen

Start a few meters right of Spare a Thought.. Up the steep slab with a hard, bouldery start, through the bulge and on to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 12m, 8 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Hard start with ground fall potential, will add bolt, good climbing though.

5 Shits and Giggles

Start at arete at per TT, then up leftwards on micro crimps to break. Heave onto wall and up to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

24Sport 15m John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Cool little route.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Nice sequences down low. Should be OK when fresh ! 2 shots at EOTD

6 * Tickles on Tour

Start 5m right of B at blunt arete. (STAY OFF THIS ROUTE UNTIL SOME SUSPECT AND DANGEROUSE BLOCKS HAVE BEEN REMOVED) Hard start, then easier the higher you get.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

21Sport Project 22m, 7 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Not as bad as Matt suggests,the business is over down low, the top half is intimidating and sandy...

Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Sandy? Intimidating? Come on boys, the top is bloody held together by faith and muck - suggest th...

1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the Easy Pickings Walls to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high Rare Earth Buttress. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

Approach:© (wogdog)

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the 'Easy Pickings Walls' to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high 'Rare Earth Buttress'. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Where Eagles Dare

A tricky traddy start guards an easy and juggy wall. 1st 3 RBs on RE and then straight up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

20Sport 18m Jason Lammers 1 years ago

That big eagle did not like me :-(

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Rare Earth

The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

21Sport 20m Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Got a little lost at the start. Nice and airy

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Great looking climb pity it doesn't climb as good.

3 Bundy Project

Start as per RE and then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 15m
4 *** Violently Silence Me

Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof.

21Sport 14m, 7 Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

Lacked abit of commitment. Classic

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Added new direct finish which is rad.

5 * Lithium Ion Direct

The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3.

22Sport 14m Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Bouldery start that might skin your shin.

6 ** Lithium Ion

Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof.

20Sport 15m, 7 Jason Lammers 12 months ago

best on this wall

Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

One hardish move up high.

7 ** Blood Sweat Steel

Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Sport 16m, 8 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

One of the better climbs I did today. Good start, easy middle, great top steep moves.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

need to keep those feet on better....

8 ** Unobtainium

 Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors.

21Sport 14m Jason Lammers 12 months ago

compact !

Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Hard final clip. Balancy and thin bottom. Good route

9 * The Gold Lead

  Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish.

18Sport 14m, 7 Jason Lammers 12 months ago

No way 18, the crack is great ! But the traverse under roof is hard and awkward..

Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

2nd shot. Man you got to work for 18 these days.

10 ** Just add gold

Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors.

FFA: Ben JengA.

20Sport 7 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Cool corner climbing to a long reach.

11 * Nickel Metal Hydride

Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors.

22Sport 12m, 6 John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Great climb with a tricky crux.

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Good little climb with some touch and go moments up high.

12 project (Pockets Of Yttrium)

Starts around left of Nickel Metal Hydride left of rounded orange arete under roof. Start on ledge at ground level below obvious pockets. Climb pockets and wall left of arete to trend up and left towards crack. Up and through crack and bulge to double anchors up left. (first 3 bolts and last bolt & anchors in so far.)

Sport Project 18m
13 project 4 RE

Climb the first bolts of 2RE up pockets, move left and go across ledge left to double anchors. Belay here. The thin wall to roof and out pocket and roof heading rightwards to anchors over the lip. (2 more bolts to be added in thin wall.).

Sport Project 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 project 3 RE

Starts right of Leper Messiah, but down at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, unfortunately forced a bit left into LP for a couple of moves, up to roof and out roof rightward, up wall to anchors.

Sport Project 20m
15 ** Leper Messiah

Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

22Sport 16m John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Great technical climbing, hard onsight.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

When it seems impossible traverse RIGHT! 2nd shot after finding the secret hold.

16 Good Strontium

Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

20Sport 20m John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Quite stiff through the roof

17 Promethium

Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

18Sport 15m John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Good climbing, careful at the second bolt.

18 Project - Rod

Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route.

Unknown 15m
19 Hard Project

Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish.

Unknown 12m

1.5.6. Quality Junk area 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The area around the slightly overhung arete on the buttress left of Rare Earth Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grey Streak (Glenn Jones Project)

Start as for QJ, then move right and up the grey steak.

FA: Project - Glenn

Sport Project 18m
2 * Quality Junk

The overhung arete and wall. Scamble up to EZ start and ride the flake with a move about 2/3rds up. Watch that pump !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 18m, 7 Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Cliping 2nd bolt had me sweating scared. Then quite nice pump with one more tricky quickdraw to p...

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

An epic pump but the rock quality is pretty terrible. Lots of sandy slopers and snappy edges.

1.5.7. Diamond Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Awesome light grey slabby wall capped by numerous small roofs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fools Gold

Wall climbing up the black rock just right of the awesome grey/orange rock to anchors under a small overlap.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

18Sport 18m Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

Hard start, the rock could be better down low. Not a great warm up if you climb within a grade or...

Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Hard and snappy start in the damp. Better at the top but not as nice rock as the others on this w...

2 * Blood Diamond

Awesome climbing up to high anchors just right of big roof.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

20Sport 20m Sebastian Sakowicz 12 months ago

Got abit lost at the crux. Found the holds after having a rest.

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

Pleasant but not very memorable

3 *** Diamond Tipped

Up flake and wall as for 'BD' to fourth bolt, move left and up awesome quality rock to anchors on bulge up high. (There is a 3m project out roof above to second anchors).

FA: Rod Young, 2011

21Sport 20m Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Great !!! old EOTD Dog.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

EOTD Melt down at last draw..

4 Project - Diamond Tipped Extension Sport Project
5 project 1

The route left of 'DT' , finishing out the thin crack in the roof to anchors up high and way out

Sport Project 23m
6 Hit The Motherlode (project)

Starts up BD, crosses next two routes diagonally and across lefward to overlap. Over and up to 2m roof flake, out and up to anchors way out up high!

Sport Project 25m

1.5.8. Nugget Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

50m left of Diamond Wall after passing a cave.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

50m left of 'Diamond Wall', just left of giant cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Hand of Faith

Start as for The Welcome Stranger. Up corner, at the second bolt break right and up wall to anchors.

FA: Neil Montieth, 2011

22Sport 15m, 7 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Fun steep climbing. Top is a bit grozzly.

2 ** The Welcome Stranger

Start in the overhanging corner. Up corner until it fades then left to nugget feature.

FA: Neil Montieth, 2011

23Sport 15m, 7 Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Rad overhung corner. I hope the nugget hold stays put!

3 *** Atomic Fluffies

The right hand of two white streaks that leads to a ramp. Stand on the cairn to get a start. Start off a little vegetated ledge. The sustained crux with an interesting sequence relents half way up to an engaging and awkward top section.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 18m, 11 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Great sustained climbing.

4 ** This one time, at Band Camp

Stand on flake and reach over and clip the 1st bolt. Pull down hard and crank up wall to break. Have a rest and climb the sustained wall to the top.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 20m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Good position - shame about the sandy rock.

Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Looks harder from the ground then it actually is. Rad wall climbing...

5 * Fluffin the Muffin

Start in the corner. Up the corner to a little ledge then up the wall. The bottom corner looks a little ordinary but worth doing for the business up top. Keeps you working for it.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

20Sport 20m, 9 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

The bottom is OK climbing and worth the effort for the top 10m of sustained climbing.

6 Who Let Fluffy Off the Chain

Start 3m left of the corner at the crack. Follow crack then face to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

16Sport 9m, 7 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

A good starter for this sector.

1.5.9. The Sluice Box 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This sector encompasses a number of walls and buttresses starting at a deep cleft/gully just past the sandy traverse under a roof with a fixed rope handline ( care needs to be taken here) and extends to just before you reach the waterfall. There is also an access route with rungs and a fixed rope about 15m left of This Wretched Life. This allows quick access to the top if you find yourself at this end of the crag at the end of the day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Angelic Upstart

Climbs the seam and face just left of the arete. Start 3m left of the gully. Climb through a little bit of ordinary rock to get to the gold. Up the seam and on to the technical slab and through to easier ground to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 18m, 9 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Sustained and tecnical climbing.

2 * Whippersnapper

Start as for Angelic Upstart. Takes the left line of bolts after the 3rd bolt of Angelic Upstart. Thin and technical climbing to the ledge (it's ok to step on the shrubbery) then easy to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

21Sport 20m, 10 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Great climbing.

3 *** Pavlovian Response

Don't let the batman start put you off as the climbing is both exciting and technical. Start under the hanging corner/seam next to a small spotted gum. You'll need Batman's assistance and sports a couple of rungs to assist. Layback and bridge the steep corner/seam to the roof, launch right to the jugs, then on to the easier exposed arete to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

24Sport 23m, 13 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Really great stemming and exciting traverse. Epic batman, stickclipping start loses a star though...

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Great technical climbing if you like this style.

4 ** Rite of Passage

Great climbing with the crux down low followed by easier and enjoyable climbing to the top. Start as for Moral Compass to the 2nd bolt. Traverse right and up to the obvious crack which is followed then up the easier wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

22Sport 23m, 11 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

The crux is over down low then an enjoyable climb to the top.

5 * Moral Compass

Ascends the attractive blank looking wall bounded on the right by twin cracks and on the left by a corner and large roof. Start off the block. Superb, thin and sustained climbing to the footledge is followed by a sustained easier jaunt to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 22m, 11 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

One of the best at the crag, thin and sustained, lots of climbing in it.

6 Project Wogdog 12

Start as for Moral Compass,then step left at the second bolt.

Sport Project 10
7 * Mugged By Reality

Takes the line just right of the bushy corner Start on the grassy ledge. Some thin sequences at the start lead to a mantle and on to the flake system and on to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

22Sport 15m, 7
8 Project Claw

Starts at the little flake line near the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof.

Sport Project 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 *** Sassy

The rightward leaning arete at the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof. Start directly under the arete.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

26Sport 19m, 10
10 This Wretched Life

An unlikely looking face climb. Start at the obvious corner crack. Climb the easy crack to the ledge then step right and climb the technical face on fabulous rock.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 20m, 10 John Lattanzio 1 years ago

A great technical climb with an easy intro.

11 Suck It Up Princess

First route on a little buttress about 50m left of a green mossy slab. Start at the obvious little corner with a crack and flake. Climb the steep little crack and onward to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

20Sport 9m, 6 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Tough little unit. Steeper than it looks.

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Short and steep, quite good.

12 ** Princess Toughenup

Start as for Suck It Up Princess. Thin climbing and funky footwork up the slightly overhung wall left of Suck It Up Princess.

FA: John.Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 10m, 6 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Some great thin and sustained climbing.

13 ** Princess Marsh Fly

Start 2m right of 'Lady of the Flies' at the flake seam. A bouldery start leads to sustained, technical climbing.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 12m, 7 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Great sustained climbing on good rock.

14 Lady of the Flies

Start at the base of the obvious flake around the corner 10m left of Suck it up Princess. Climb the flake and on to anchors.

FA: Emma Richmond-Darvill, 2012

14Sport 12m, 6 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Quite awkward in places.

1.6. The Gold Mine 74 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.474174, -35.061734

Description:

This major shady cliffline is the very best of the New Nowra crags, featuring several sectors of excellent pocketed rock and more importantly height. The fine grained grey and white rock has a particular 'limestone' like texture in many places. The entire cliff faces south west and receives almost no sun - but is strangely great in the middle of winter. Summer is ok as well due to strong breezes. At 30m high the routes at the Gold Mine are some of the longest at Nowra, and many are true classics of the south coast. Bolts are plentiful - this is a sport only crag. The biggest downside is the rough road approach, the rap in access (20m from the carpark!) and the complex and hairy exit up a series of ladders, rungs and ledges. It is not suitable for kids, pets or geriatrics. The best crags are Cafe Cruiser, Fernville and Wasp in the Willows.

Approach:

The Gold Mine is located about 20 minutes South-West of the Nowra CBD and Thompsons Point. The last few kilometres of the drive are on rough roads that are only really suitable for cars that don't mind a bit of mud and rocks. After heavy rain a 4WD is mandatory - a Forestor or Xtrail is fine.

From Nowra: Continue along Braidwood road towards TJF.

  1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.

  2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.

  3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left. Drive through open gate. Continue on this dirt road ignoring right turn.

  4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right it should have a small "fire trail sign". From this point the road is much rougher and there are sections which stay muddy for most of the year.

  5. 6.3km: Continue along this road until it finishes at a small parking area and turing circle. Don't park others in!

Walk 25 metres down the trail to cliff edge - directly out from the giant big dead tree is a rap anchor on a little ledge. Fix a line here or rap and pull a doubled rope here (it's 30m to the ground - a doubled 50m rope WILL NOT REACH). The rap route is straight down the west end of Rockn' Tree Cave.

Alternatively, to access the base of the cliff (without rapping in) walk toward the cliff and pick up a faint trail leading to the left. After about 200m the trail leads you into a gully. Take care at the top of the gully due to loose earth and rotten rock. Trend leftward to reach the first set rungs to gain the terrace. Go right along the terrace, again take care though the sword grass and wet ground to reach the second set of rungs. Once at the base of the cliff walk right (facing out), keeping as close to the cliff as possible, for about 50m to find a fixed ladder and rope. Scale this ladder to reach Wind Willows Wall. About 10 minutes walk from car.

History:

The area was originally discovered in 2006 by Greg Wilson who bolted and climbed quite a few of the most obvious lines at each crag. After failing to get anyone else enthused he lost interest in this crag (but did return years later to chop some retrobolts) and the cliff remained ignored and forgotten until 2011 when the New Nowra crew of Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers and others got wind of the area. They solved the walk-in access route by installing rungs and ladders and bolted every inch of the place. The name of this crag was changed to The Gold Mine due to community sensitivities.

1.6.1. 22000lbs area 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:© (bundybear)

A long forgotten wall at the far left end of the cliff, currently very overgrown and unloved. There is potential here for a couple of new routes.

Approach:© (bundybear)

About 50m left of Smoke and Mirrors rap in area. 'Access' is from above by rap or from below via two metal rungs and some old rope. Currently very unloved and base is thick with ferns.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Last in Line

The arete. Stick clip the first bolt, then power through the bouldery start to easier climbing in a nice position.

FA: Greg Wilson

25Sport 20m
2 ** 22000lbs of Thrust

Orange face left of arête. An easy tick, check it out...

FA: 2006

21Sport 20m

1.6.2. White Pocketed Wall 0 routes in Sector

Description:

Nice white pocketed wall which is capped by a small roof. There is potential for some classics here, as well as several easy shorter routes. There easy exit climb to get you back on the track. Probably about 250m from the car park.. Just past this is a waterfall, and then you will be at Lassiters

1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Description:

30 mtrs further south from Rick Rollers...Locate three trees growing clumped together rap 25 metres to the Ledge of Luxury! Bring lunch and a bean bag for the five star effect

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Flame

Same start as for smoking mirrors continuing the traverse along the lip of the cave out to the arette continuing up arette to finish at anchor for boab business.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport 30m, 12
2 *** Sun Dance Kid

same start as for SM then breaks off to the right about half way up, following the orange flake and up through the crack along the small roof, then moving to the top trending right.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

24Sport 27m, 10
3 *** Smoking Mirrors

Looks amazing, is amazing !! Awesome rock. Start off the ledge as per DD, keep heading right out on the wall and follow the flake feature in ridiculous position. Following the line straight up where the black rock meets the orange rock all the way to top.

Set by Jake Noblett, 2013

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

23Sport 25m, 10
4 * Dumpster Diving

Step right off ledge, using insecure feet to gain the arete. Thin holds lead to a thank god jug and you move onto the other wall and steeply to the top

FA: Rick, Bundy and Jake

22Sport 20m
5 ** Tic-tac-toe

Same start as DD, then directly up thru the bulges with increasing pump - eases off the higher you get.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2013

FA: Jason Lammers and Rick Phillips, 2013

23Sport 20m
6 Fuck the Mojo - Bundy Project

Shared start with the others and then up and back left fighing the pump to a delicate crux. Once you have reached the giant pocket its smooth sailing to the top. Hand over the top to clip single bolt. Back jump to anchors below the rooflet to clean.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 20m
7 *** Where's The Gold

starts on the left side of ledge going straight up to anchors. Same finish as for FTM.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport 20m, 9

1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Some great quality rock but some high admin access! This novelty sector features a spectacular hanging belay off a 'permaledge' - a permanent portaledge bolted to the rock. All the climbs here are magnificent quality and with the bonus exposure make for some of the best routes at The Gold Mine.

Approach:

Walk about 100m north of the carpark along the cliff top - and find a large rock cairn marking the top of this sector. Near the edge of the cliff below the cairns are two rap rings set on horizontal rock just below a large tree. Fix a 35m+ rope and rap 20m down to cosy permaledge. Stay clipped in at ALL times and be careful not to tip the ledge. You will have to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock. When you are finished climbing here, rap an extra 15m to the floor and walk right along cliff base to reach Cafe Cruiser sector and the usual exit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Who's Who in the Climbing Zoo

Pretty airy! Up off the ledge for one bolt then traverse right, across corner to overhung arete. Up this taking the right most line of bolts over the sucking void.

Set by Jason Lammers & Rick Phiilips, 2013

FA: Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2013

22Sport 20m
2 * Hypocritical Has Beens

At last, an easy way off the permaledge. Traverse right to adjoining wall and continue steeply to top. Not as great a climb as the others off this ledge but good all the same

FA: Rick Phillips, Jake Noblett and Doug Bell

18Sport 20m
3 Jenga Copyright- PROJECT

Up HR, then move right under rooflet. Find the pocket and up the easy wall.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 20m
4 ** High Roller / Six Pack Tummies

Great quality rock, with some amazing pockets down low. The right line of bolts off the permalegde, sharing the first couple of bolts with Crash Test Dummies. Might be grade 25.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 20m Neil Monteith 9 months ago

Thanks for the vision and bolts Rick! Took me a few goes, and eventually solved with some weird m...

5 ** Crash Test Dummies

Great sustained climbing all the way. Follows the line you rap down to access the permaledge. Shared first bolt with High Roller then straight up (with difficulty) to roof. Take care not to pull on the lip of the tempting roof-flake (marked with an X). It flexes and is directly above your belayer!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport 20m Neil Monteith 9 months ago

Tough but good! First try I dogged on every bolt, 2nd shot got the redpoint. I'm thinking it's ha...

6 *** 3D Disco

A killer line in an outrages position. One of the best routes at the Gold Mine. Step left with difficulty off the permaledge over the void to reach the undercling flake. Follow it to the corner then up this on massive jugs and finish up headwall. Lower-off into space and get your belayer to lasso you and haul you back in again. You will need a 2nd to clean the route.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

20Sport 20m Adam Bramwell 9 months ago

Wild.

Neil Monteith 9 months ago

Repeat. Quite the warm-up! I felt like I was at Arapiles. Rick was on fire when he graded this 20.

7 ** Protein Pill

Follow 3D Disco all the way to the end of the steepness, then take left trending rings up grey face.

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 22m
8 *** Frequent Flyer Points

Follow the juggy flake as for 3D Disco to a rest just bellow the roof. Move off through the roof, left of the major corner, following the lower flake, then moving out and up the head wall. The quality of the rock on this route is crazy cool!

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

24Sport 20m, 11
9 *** Boab Business

Wow. This climb rips it in the way of exciting moves, exposure, sweet location and great quality rock. Possibly worthy of 4 stars! The first half of the route shares the start of 3D Disco up to the rest. After moving onto the roof, merge off 3D Disco, traversing left through the lower flake of the roof, staying below the bolts until moving out of the roof onto the face. Traverse left along the face to the arette, following arette to the top.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport Project 31m, 15

1.6.5. Amazonia 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

The section of impressive roofs to the left of Cafe Cruiser Wall, with thickset jungle at the base. Only one route here so far.

Approach:

Walk 30m left of Cafe Cruiser Wall, trying not to get your feet wet and not slipping down the ferny hillside. Keep about 5m away from the cliffline on a ledge system until you can spot the stone steps leading up to the base of the routes. Don't step in the orange slime!

Descent Notes:

The routes here are 30m high - use a long rope.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * More Fun Than a Bunch of Monkeys

Ridiculous steepness. The middle corner section seeps after rain, but can be mostly avoided by stemming, Stick-clip very high ringbolt and batman up to it. Tricky move up onto slab, then easy jugs up vertical wall to right edge of massive roof. Negotiate past green slime corner, then swing left and out massive roof on amazing horns to lip. Tough move over this then up overhung grey wall for even more pump. Cleaning this route involves either a willing second or a combo or re-threading and back-jumping.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

24Sport Project 28m, 11
2 ** Amazonia

Really steep climbing on excellent rock - once you get past the first few metres. Either sketch up the brittle start or batman up to first bolt (add a star if you do this!). Hard move at first bolt involving slopers and a tricky highstep layback section. Up juggy flakes to mega roof - out this on mostly big holds and finish up killer headwall. Extended runners to avoid rope drag.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 30m, 11 Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Awesome steep climbing. I bouldered the horrible start but suggest everyone else just batmans up ...

3 Adventureland (NEIL'S PROJECT)

Biggest, steepest line at The Gold Mine. Start as for Amazonia for 3 bolts then take the left line through the roof and out out out. Overhangs at least 10m. Closed project - stay off please.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

Sport Project 30m

1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This impressive bulging white wall contains some of the best mid grade routes in the Nowra region. At 30m high, the routes here are long and sustained on excellent quality rock. Get ready to get pumped! A single set of rungs gets you up onto the start ledge of the middle routes. WARNING - a 60m rope is required!

Approach:

The wall is 20m west of the carpark - rap in.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs. 60m rope required.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Drop Tongue

As per Bromance, and keep moving left to obvious belay ledge. Camp out and battle the tougue and steepness on the second pitch.

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport Project 32m Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Worked all the moves, will send when fresh,

2 Black Butt (Bromance Direct)

Direct start to 'Bromance' starting about 6m left of the rungs. Stick clip first bolt and batman (climbable in dry conditions) up so you don't get your feet wet in the muddy start. Bouldery on pockets then jam up the hand crack to join into 'Bromance'.

Alternatively, (for a more strenuous finish), head left and do the 2nd pitch of 'Drop Tongue'.

21Sport 30m John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Did it without the batman, 22 maybe 23 if you strugle with cracks.

3 *** Bromance

Up CC for a few bolts and then move left and up thru the bulges to top

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 30m Jimmy Mullan 10 months ago

Fumbled around looking for holds after the roof and got pumped. Great climb, definatly a better w...

John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Great long routes on good rock, good one to warm up on.

4 *** Café Cruiser

Probably the best 20 in Nowra. Obvious start then up to the flake and jug your way to the top.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

20Sport 30m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Amazing super jugs. I didn't think this was runout.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

A but run out on the easy ground up high..

5 *** Sucked in Spartacus

Off belay ledge, trend left two bolts then straight up on flakes till the over laps

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 25m, 12 Tim Haasnoot 10 months ago

Nice warm up, jugs where you don't expect them.

Jimmy Mullan 10 months ago

Great climbing with nice polished jugs in the middle. Pumpy warm up

6 *** You can't handle me Ruth

Off belay ledge and takes the left line of bolts nearly straight up, climbing small flakes and pockets till jugs thru the mini roof

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 30m Tim Haasnoot 10 months ago

Great climbing. Jugs!

Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Repeat. Still one of the best sport routes at the grade in the region.

7 ** Short Sharp Explanation

Off belay ledge the Right hand line of bolts nearly straight up, climbs the large flake and up thru the roof

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

24Sport 25m Tim Haasnoot 10 months ago

Just couldn't find the holds on the upper section.

Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Not as good as other routes on this wall as its a bit inconsistent.

8 *** Forest Stump

Back down on the ground, furthest most right line of bolts up wall using underclings and small pockets, hard thru overhangs.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport 28m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

I found the middle undercling section hard. Top is fun with the little two finger pocket.

Sebastian Sakowicz 2 years ago

Great climbing with lots of rests. One of the best 23s at Nowra. About the same grade as speed bo...

9 * 97% Fern Free

Fern Free variant of BP. Up BP, till it gets easy then trend left up to crimps past 3 more RB's. Finish on FS anchor.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 25m Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Climbs the best bit of BP, and then direct crimpy moves. Another option on this great wall.

10 ** Bumpin' Peepees

Start 2m right of ST. Bouldery to gain the flake, then up the slabby stuff and into the steeper stuff to finish with a jug haul.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 23m, 11 Neil Monteith 10 months ago

I enjoyed a lot of this route - but kicking through the ferns and dirt up high wasn't a highlight...

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

First ascent. Bouldery start might be a stopper. Another crux up high.

1.6.7. Rock'n Tree Cave 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This huge cave is the most impressive bit of rock at The Goldmine. It begins with a slippery grey 'slab' for the first 10m then overhangs alarmingly through several major roof sections and caps with a section of pocketed grey headwall. All routes are long - a 30m rope is required for lowering off, and long slings are needed to stop rope drag.

Approach:

Located immediately right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and directly below the carpark. If you use the access rap chains you rap down the left side of this wall.

Descent Notes:

Due to steepness all routes require back jumping.

History:

'Monty' equipped the first route here but waited two years to actually send it. Matt Pascoe had the real vision and equipped the two longest and steepest sections.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Simple Life

The hardest route at New Nowra? Left most line directly up through the massive steepness. Scramble up shale mess to small ledge. Bouldery and unlikely start onto the white white (ignore seepy seam) - then up and out out out. Spaced bolting.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

FA: Matt Pascoe, 2013

29Sport Project 25m, 8
2 Open Project

As for The Simple Life for three bolts, then right and through centre of cave. Runout and hard.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

Sport Project 25m, 9
3 Project - Matt B

Start as for Jerkyll and Hyde but follow the scoop to join the open project. Follow this till the last bolt on the roof, then move diagonally R to join J&H again at the lip.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport Project 30m, 12
4 *** Jerkyll & Hyde

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Pascoe, 2013

25Sport 30m, 13 Matt Brooks 9 months ago

Awesome route, done in very average conditions. Nice work Neil!

Tim Haasnoot 10 months ago

2 rests, what a great climb. It just keeps going and has a bit of everything. Will be back for su...

1.6.8. Ugly Duckling Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This poxy section between Rockn' Tree Cave and Fernville has a couple of questionable routes that feature seeping and creaking flakes, glue, rungs and lichen. Only for the climber who has done everything else in the region. Stars are given from the first ascentist. Be warned - it is unlikely any of these routes have had a repeat.

Approach:

This section of cliff starts immediately right of Rockn' Tree Cave and left of Fernville. Look for the section of rock you would least like to climb.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs less than 25m up the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Remorseless

Climbs the left side of the obvious arete at the right end of Rockn' Tree Cave starting left of the corner to a ledge right of the chimney. Awkward start is overcome by bridging of the tree to a rest, thin face climbing on good holds leads to the arete. The start seeps badly after rain and the upper section is dirty.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

21Sport 15m, 9 John Lattanzio 12 months ago

A great little climb that will keep you working all the way.

2 * Ugly Duckling

Start at the tiny alcove 6m right of the left end of the grey wall. Up the steep flake system, using the staples at the start to keep your feet dry and trying to avoid the seep. Some awsome barndoor moves to gain the upper flake then steep wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

25Sport 15m, 9 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Despite the ugly seep it actually climbs quite well with some committing barndoor moves, quite su...

3 * Pleasure Spiked With Pain

Start in the middle of the grey wall. A bouldery sequence leads to sustained climbing which relents at half height to a pleasurable jaunt above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 25m, 12 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Good long route with the dificulies down low.

Adam Bramwell 2 years ago

Interesting first few moves as a boulders problem to the third bolt

4 * Waste of Sin

Start at the right hand end of the grey wall under the arching overlap feature in between two endless seeping water streaks. Thin and technical down low, engaging (ie crumbly) climbing above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

22Sport 15m, 8 Neil Monteith 10 months ago

I've never seen this route dry. Tried to avoid wet holds but ended up slipping off anyway.

Jason Lammers 12 months ago

Fernie Holds are Rad

1.6.9. Fernville 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:© (ropedonkey)

A great section of pocketed vertical wall that is generously grid bolted. The style is more technical and sustained than powerful. Just look for the sea of ferns and the outstanding buttress of Powder Burns.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

About 100m right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and just right of the Ugly Duckling Wall. To the right of this section of cliff is a long section of ultra choss monster roofs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Very Thick Piece of Toast

The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

25Sport 15m, 9 Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Get your crimp on! Excellent rock the whole way.

Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Good and techo. Need to be fresh for this fingery unit. 2 shots at EOD

2 *** Tecktonik

2m right of VTPoT. Up on little pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

24Sport 14m Matt Brooks 9 months ago

Very cool little route! Fantastic stone. Last bolt is far to the L of the climbing!!!!

Vanessa Wills 2 years ago

RUined the onsight spree- second go. IF it was longer it would be classic, but my fingers were gl...

3 *** Pocket Shot

Start as for WtBF, vere leftwards at 2nd bolt to nice flake and follow the awesome pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

23Sport 16m, 6 Neil Monteith 10 months ago

The top is rad pockets (and pretty squeezed in) but I didn't enjoy the flaky start.

Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Had a fair go at this one, helped that i just belayed Bundy on it.. Not over until the anchors ar...

4 * What's This Button For?

One of the original lines at the Gold Mine. Up the pockets to lower offs under the roof.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

22Sport 15m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

The top is rad pockets but I didn't enjoy the flaky start. Extra bolt is great.

Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Funky climb again on the best rock around, swinging between pockets

5 ** Just Desserts are Not Slimming

Start up the boulder to clip first bolt then jump on wall and blast out through the roof. Back jump roof to clean. Be careful of suss flakes in roof. Originally graded 25, but most now consider it more like 23/24.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

24Sport 20m Jason Lammers 1 years ago

Probably the last tick for Nowra in 2012. Its getting too warm.

John Lattanzio 1 years ago

Only 24, some tricky, sequencey moves, the roof is great too.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Resurrection

Up the fallen boulder clipping bolt on left then on wall crimping like a Banshee.

FA: Gilles Bonin, 2011

21Sport 12m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Not the easiest 21! Quite thin and technical - hard to work out what is a hold and what isn't wit...

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Quite technical crux.

7 ** Caught Napping

Up block in corner then straight up wall to anchors just right of roof.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

21Sport 15m Jimmy Mullan 10 months ago

Hard for 21. Even harder as the last climb of the day

Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago

1st shot today, very nice. 17/1/12 Very nice climbing with a couple of hard bits for me. Should b...

8 ** Cover Boy

Up slab then step onto ferny ledge on right. Crank up sweet (or desperate) diagonal finger crack leading rightwards.

FA: Jesse Lomas, 2006

22Sport 16m Scott Forrester 2 years ago

Great finger crack. Seems easy for the grade.

Tim Haasnoot 2 years ago

Only 21, thin crack climbing, anchors at last bolt would be nicer. Great wall.

9 *** Powder Burns

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt and grovel into ferny corner on the left until level with the first bolt. Now traverse hard right past first bolt and up pocketed face above. Harder direct start seems possible, but no one appears to have done it. The actual first ascentist of this route remains a mystery.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

25Sport 20m Neil Monteith 9 months ago

I probably shouldn't try this as my end of day route after a full two days of cranking. I think I...

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

First move is desperate - any ideas? Rest was rad and very sustained. Felt solid 25 to me.

1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Great rock and friendly grades with lots of bolts will ensure this area is popular with the masses. Most routes stay dry in the light rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zis is KAOS

The only true easy route at the Gold Mine. Start at the ledgy handcrack at left end of the wall. Jam easily up the crack and pull the scoopy bulge to the anchors.

FA: Jon Porter, 2011

17Sport 15m, 7 Neil Monteith 9 months ago

I enjoyed this. Despite appearances the rock is generally good quality. The baseball hold is rad!

Rob Knight 1 years ago

Very nice - kept powering through the steepness to the chains. Better than it looks.

2 ** Snitch

Start 1m right of Zis is KAOS. Thin and technical climbing with a burly finish.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 13m, 7 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Great technical climbing

3 ** After the Rapture

This one was done on the day the world was supposed to end.Start 3m left of BotB. Bulging wall which is technical and sustained.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 15m, 8 Rick Phillips 1 years ago

One of those onsights with information coming from everyone so it all cancels out...Good climbing

Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago

One shot on top rope. Did all the moves.

4 * Battle of the Bulge

5m left of DF

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 15m, 6 Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Great top section

Dubravka Sakowicz 2 years ago

Not bad should be able to do this.

5 ** Dragon Fly

2m left of WiW thin climbing at start leads to crux with great steep moves at top.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 15m duanne white 1 years ago

nice. felt easy for 22 if you are short

Rick Phillips 1 years ago

A climb of all styles, slabs and jugs so take your pick

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 ** Truck stop Party Girl

Just left of WiW, but crosses over mid height and thru the roof and up to jugs.

FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011

22Sport 22m Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Hardish down low if no beta

Dubravka Sakowicz 2 years ago

Couldn't do one move on the slab the rest was ok.

7 ** Wasp in the Willows

Up the crack that stops at 5m, climbs the pockets and features left of crack thru the bulges. Way cool !

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

18Sport 25m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Repeat. Still an absolute winner at the grade (even though it's a bolted crack for half the route...

Rob Knight 1 years ago

Has a bit of everything - keeps you thinking until the anchors.

8 Skirt Wearing Nancyboy

Rick named this climb after himself. Stand on big flake, tricky start and then nice crimping to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

19Sport 15m Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Apparently i wear a skirt and sometimes my squeals would confirm this, great if you want to gain ...

Dubravka Sakowicz 2 years ago

Had a little trouble getting on the wall.

9 Foreplay

Choice of 2 starts, then up on nice rock.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

16Sport 15m Neil Monteith 9 months ago

I really don't like this section of rock. Chossy jams, sharp painful crimps then a quite nice fin...

Dubravka Sakowicz 2 years ago

Found the start a little hard.

10 Espresso

Right of F, up the crack then into the white streak.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 15m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

I thought i was on the 16. Hard and crimpy. I almost fell off in the finger crack and crimpy middle.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Buckingham Bunga

Start at the crack in the middle of the orange wall, and then up and thru the roof to finish on head wall.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

21Sport 22m Jimmy Mullan 10 months ago

Good start and finish with a creamy middle.

Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Holy crap i was scared on this climb

12 After Dinner Sex Games

The next crack along. Up crack and up into beaut easy rock to shared lower off with TBBC

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

18Sport 18m Jimmy Mullan 10 months ago

After the first couple of moves it's all done.

Rob Knight 1 years ago

This was superb. Technical crak start, cruisy middle, then super fun top. Best section of climb...

13 * The Bunga Bunga Climb

Shares 1st bolt with BJ, then up and left on awesome pockets with an iteresting finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

21Sport 18m Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Good climb that has a lot more climbing than looks off the ground, could be tough if your a shorty

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Another long reach on the face...I need arm extensions

14 ** Beetle Juice

15m right of WiW near large boulder in corner.

FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011

21Sport 15m Rick Phillips 1 years ago

Such a fun climb, so very 3D

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Fricking long reach. Desperate in mid section

1.6.11. Sandpaper Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Bordering the right side of Wasp in the Willows is this long vertical wall with a confusing array of bolts. All but one of the routes share the same start - up the thin crack. This crack tends to seep down low, and sometimes requires a batman start.

Approach:

This section of cliff is directly above the fixed aluminum ladder, and just right of Wasp in the Willows sector.

Descent Notes:

Watch your rope length when lowering off - these climbs are a touch higher than 25m.

History:

As usual Greg Wilson bolted the original route on this sector, Sandpaper Sally, and Bundy and Rick covered the remaining rock in rings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hung Out To Dry

Whilst not the greatest rock quality the height, sea views and friendly jugs make for one of the best easy routes here. Layback up the right facing corner then up the sustained face above. This is a good end of day exit route if you top out.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

17Sport 25m Neil Monteith 9 months ago

Repeat. Whilst not the greatest rock quality the height, sea views and friendly jugs make for one...

Dubravka Sakowicz 2 years ago

Very nice climbing.

2 ** Fair weather trainer

Up 'Sandpaper Sally' for 3 bolts then, lean out left on big sidepull and up the long wall. Sustained !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 26m Neil Monteith 10 months ago

Wasn't quite the grade 18 warm-down I thought it was! Must remember to look at guide next time. V...

Rick Phillips 1 years ago

99.9 percent done... were we pumped or just cold?????

3 ** Sandpaper Sally

Starts in the small seam and follows till it blanks out, take a rest in the cave then up the awesome long headwall.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

18Sport 24m Jimmy Mullan 10 months ago

Nails for 18. Especially with the river at the start.

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

The others found this fingery. I thought it was fine.

4 * Air Active

As per SS, then step right over cave and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 25m Dubravka Sakowicz 2 years ago

Nice and long.

Sebastian Sakowicz 2 years ago

Pumpy.

5 * Ocean Views

Up SS and at first bolt take the right hand line up the middle of wall.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

19Sport 28m Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Had to engage brain. Hazy to the ocean

John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Tricky crux and a little intimidating.

1.6.12. Wringer Wall 2 routes in Feature

Summary:
Description:

A steep orange wall located between the two sets of rungs, above the rope handrail, on the descent. The base is usually muddy and unpleasant to belay from.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Through the Wringer

Leftward diagonal line starting a few meters before the rope handrail, finishing through a little roof. Some nice slabbing then burly moves through the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport Project 15m, 8 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Harder tnan it looks.

2 Wrung Out (Project Wogdog)

Start mid way along the rope handrail. Thrugh black rock to crack and scooped bulge.

Sport Project 14m, 10

1.6.13. Descent Gully Walls 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

A shorter vertical wall that you pass when descending the highest set of rungs (before the highest section of the fixed ropes). The rock is a little sandy but the bolts are plentiful.

Approach:

From the carpark walk about 200m east (left when standing on the top of the cliff looking at the view). Follow a few yellow tape markers and a well worn track to a steep loose descent gully. Down this for a 10m then left along ledge system below short cliff to first set of rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rock Dodgin Lawn Bowlin Granny

First route on the descent of the gully. Up via 3 bolts trending onto wall between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Ok just a bit gritty.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

15Sport 6m, 5
2 Forlorn Bowls

Start on ledge above upper set of rungs on the descent. Up the right facing flake.

FA: Bob Macmillan, 2011

17Sport 14m, 6
3 Token

1m left of Thin Edge of the Wedge at small corner with hand crack up left side. Up corner for four metres to ledge then up juggy face.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

15Sport 13m, 4 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Cruisy with a tricky bit.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Start is a bit sandy - top is cool

4 * Thin Edge of the Wedge

Nice warmup and probably the best 'easy' route at the Goldmine. Thin crack with lots of jugs on grey wall about 3m right of access rungs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

16Sport 13m, 5 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Nice warm up, gives a little pump.

Neil Monteith 2 years ago

Good little warmup

1.7. Capricornia 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Named after the rather large heard of goats milling around the top when the cliff was discovered. About 500m of cliffline offering a variety of styles of climbing,split by an easy access gully, which divides the cliff into a northern and southern sector.

1.7.1. Southern Sector 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This crag faces southwest and is suitable for the warmer months. It features steep grey and orange walls, some of which are completely devoid of holds for a 3m section. There are some corners more akin to granite. Location: From the carpark walk right along the cliff top until a second,easier gully is reached (the first gully requires a batman style decent/ascent via fixed rope). At the bottom turn left and follow a vague track until you reach the first gully. The routes start here.

Approach:© (wogdog)

From the carpark walk right along the cliff top until a second,easier gully is reached (the first gully requires a batman style decent/ascent via fixed rope). At the bottom turn left and follow a vague track until you reach the first gully. The routes start here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Wogdog A

The left hand of two lines in the gully.

Sport Project 13m, 7
2 * Bleat or Retreat

Steep and technical climbing up a series of flakes. The right hand of two lines in the first(hard) descent gully

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

21Sport 9m, 5 John Lattanzio 2 years ago

Hard and techo for the grade.

3 Face the Music

Only half the route is done to a set of anchors before the real dificulties start. The rest of the route is still a project. Start at the bottom of a left leading ramp/crack. Up the ramp to the anchors. Something to loosen up on.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

13Sport 12m, 6
4 Project Wogdog B

The wall and arete above the cave right of Face the Music. Start as for FTM.

Sport Project 18m, 9
5 ** Imaginary Friends

Start 4m right of FTM at the obvious corner crack. One of a number of quality crack routes in the region. Bridge and jamb your way to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

17Sport 18m, 9
6 Pumped Bumpkin (Project Glenn Jones)

The left hand line through a series of scoops and caves. Start about 20m right of IF under the savagly overhanging grey wall.

Sport Project 20m
7 Project Glenn Jones

Right hand line in the overhanging grey wall.

Sport Project
8 Project Wogdog C

Follows the outstanding arete at the right end of the slab. Start off the block at the right end of the black slab.

Sport Project 14m
9 *** Route of All Evil(Project Wogdog D)

Start at the base of the stunning corner crack.

***Sport Project 15m, 11
10 *** Panache

The classic flake line capped by a large roof. Start off the block at the base of the slab 10m right of ROAE. Climb the slab to gain the flake. Flamboyant laybacking leads to the traverse under the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 20m, 10
11 *** Argy Bargy (Project Wogdog)

The rightward diagonal leading to a slabby open book corner on awesome rock up high. Start 10m right of Panache.

***Sport Project 20m

1.7.2. Northern Sector 0 routes in Sector

Description:

A more broken cliffline, with potential for easier lines as well as the hard ones. Tends to be more choss here but routes should clean up well. Cliff faces north making a good winter location. Location: At the easy descent gully keep going right.

Approach:© (wogdog)

At the easy descent gully keep going right.

1.8. Moonshine 49 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.420658, -35.032755

Description:

Comprising of Moonshine, above the car park and The Dark Side Below. Sections of great rock and lots of potential for routes on numerous small butresses. Most routes have a band of Choss so take care.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

On your way to Tianjara falls.

Look for the 620 sign just past the intersection of Braidwood and Turpentine Roads. Turn off to the right about 1km after the 620 sign into a gated (open) road. Follow this to the obvious car park just b4 the road goes to to 4WD heaven.

Walk down the crazy 4WD track 300 mtrs for moonshine or look right for small cairn and follow this for 5 min for Darkside, et al.

Awesome "Nowra" style climbing! Terrific excursion, if you want to get away from the crowds..

View Larger Map

620 ==> 1

1.8.1. Lunar Wall 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Steep wall climbing on pockets and breaks, more like limestone than sandstone

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 space cadet

trickier slab than it looks

FA: rick phillips

18Sport 12m Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago

Not bad a little short.

Boyd Robinson 2 years ago

awhward, bit of a sandbag

2 * lunar-tick

starts up the flake under the roof and traverses out right

FA: rick phillips

19Sport 18m Gareth Downey 1 years ago

hard under roof if you are big - very bunched

Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago

Stuffed around on the slab.

3 Asteroids Arete - PROJECT

Up the tricky arete.

Start: About 3m right of corner at 'Arete'

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport
4 * asteroids in uranus

start up cosmic thing and at second bolt trend left

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 18m Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago

Could not cross into the pocket and hold on. Only really had one shot at the move did the rest.

Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago

2nd shot, hard to read but not bad.

5 * my favourite martian

start up cosmic thing and at 5th bolt finish up asteroids

FA: rick phillips

19Sport 18m Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago

Nice link up.

John Lattanzio 4 years ago

Another pumper for this area

6 *** cosmic thing

start up corner loaded with pockets and laybacks a little pumpier than you will expect

FA: rick phillips

19Sport 18m Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago

Great.

Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago

Excellent climbing very nice rock and moves.

7 ** beam me up scotty

same start as cosmic, launch straight into the crux going around bulge, take a grade off if you keep going up cosmic and traverse around the crux (give it a go as its well protected)

Start: start up "cosmic thing" and take the line of bolts to the right at 3rd bolt

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 18m, 10 Dubravka Sakowicz 1 years ago

Could not do the one hard move, did the rest.

Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago

2nd shot, I am bad a reading routes. Bit of one move wonder.

8 ** beam me up scotty "direct start"

if you dont like crimps keep going up "cosmic thing" to start the climb. This will turn the climb into a hard 23 instead of the easier 23 it is today. Joins the climb just under the existing crux...so now your pumped for the throw!!

Start: two mtrs to the right of cosmic thing

FA: rick phillips

23Sport 18m Sebastian Sakowicz 1 years ago

2nd shot. Much better direct, much more consistant.

David O'Donnell 4 years ago

just call it beam me up scotty...proper start... makes the other "variant" rather redundant.

9 ** Hill Project

Great climbing I think cos i haven't done it yet.

Start: Same place as BMUSD until i sought out the rught hand start.

Sport 23m
10 *** My Bolts My Climb

Borderline 25 if you don't camp in the slot for days on end. The second half is nearly as hard as the first so keep the pump happening.

Start: Two meters right of BMUSDS.

FA: Sir Graham Hill

24Sport 18m Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Back to the old days, falling off above the last bolt...

David O'Donnell 4 years ago

way bitch'n

11 *** Wot u Got Gets Me Hot

Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

23Sport 20m, 12 John Lattanzio 3 years ago

Classic climbing all the way.

12 ** supernova

stick clip first bolt, then climbs pockets to roof, thug your way up that to crux around bulge..

FA: rick phillips

24Sport 23m rick phillips

would be a super climb if the batman start could be avoided (which it cant) way worth doing!! ext...

13 You Snooze You Lose (Project Rick)

Not bolted yet. Starts just right of dirty crack and climbs face to the top of the cliff.

Unknown 17m
14 * Hill Stole My Route

Short but sweet. 'Steep' start lunging for bomber pocket, then straight up on smaller polished pockets.

23Sport 9m, 4
15 * iClimb

First bolt of 'Hill Stole My Route', then right and up bigger but steeper pockets. Single giant U lower-off.

24Sport 9m, 4

1.8.2. Dark Side 34 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

A place for everyone as it has a bit of everything. Similar rock and aspect as the "grotto". Location: From the carpark look north and locate a small cairn. Follow the faint track fifty mtrs ahead and at the next cairn drop down a very easy gully, past a fallen big dead tree to first small cliff (Fat Wog Wall). It's less than five minutes to the first climb from the car! Climbs listed right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chk Chk Boom

EZ warm up route on the way in

Start: First climb you come to after turning right once down the easy gully

FA: The Major

20Sport 8m
2 Fully Sick Mate

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

18Unknown 8m John Lattanzio 4 years ago

bouldery

John Lattanzio 4 years ago

Sandbag for 18, more like 22.

3 * Fat Wog

The bouldery right line to shared lower off. Cool feature...

Start: On the walk in.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

21Sport 8m Jason Lammers 4 years ago

FA

John Lattanzio 5 years ago

better and more continuous than SW.

4 Skninny Wog

Up bulging wall on good holds, to shared lower off with FB.

Start: Left of 'Fat Wog'

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

19Sport 8m Jason Lammers 4 years ago

FA

John Lattanzio 5 years ago

nice crux move

5 * under the milky way

bit of a tough start until it gets chalk over the obvious holds, starting off the ground makes it a true 19.. may pay to clip first bolt off the block then step down to ground

FA: rick phillips

18Sport 15m Boyd Robinson 2 years ago

Sandbag but good

Sebastian Sakowicz 3 years ago

Not bad.

6 southern cross

stick clip first bolt, its way up there as you would not be able to clip anything until you get to it..hard moves off the ground maybe 22 if you hate crimps then over bulge to get established on headwall, great laybacking all the way to the top..ps you dont need to pull on any of the conglomerate rocks at the very top!

FA: rick phillips

21Sport 15m Sebastian Sakowicz 3 years ago

Hard first couple of moves then about 19 after that.

Stuart Ecob 4 years ago

fell on the start. tricky start, nice mantle.

7 * YAKing Lines

Up corner then thin headwall.

Start: 2m left of GS in corner.

FA: Adrian Child, 2009

21Sport 18m Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Got it in the end. Spaced bolts and a nasty choss band but a good route.

Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Bolting needs a rethink down low

8 * Gravity Sucks

Hard off the deck, with another crux at three quarter height

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 15m Matt Tranter 2 years ago

Nice all the way. Glad of the rest on the Rick Philips Ledge

rick phillips

wow, make sure you nail the start or you wont have enough skin on your finger to have too many goes

9 * Need Another Seven Astronauts

start at right hand end of overhung cliff, work your way up to the small bulging roof and take your pick of the two options, if it seems hard take the other option

FA: rick phillips

20Sport 20m Dubravka Sakowicz 3 years ago

Nice climbing.

Sebastian Sakowicz 3 years ago

easy 19. A good warm up.

10 * quantam physics

first few bolts of "nasa" then at roof hard moves to the left gets you on the headwall

Start: same start as "nasa" but at roof, follow bolts to the left and up to anchors

FA: oliver kerr

23Sport 20m Sebastian Sakowicz 3 years ago

Nice movement but not very sustained. Probably a little soft.

David O'Donnell 4 years ago

bolting makes it streno.

11 * who is Mike Collins?

short bouldery climb that may get extended thru the roof if it look like it will go

Start: short climb that ends at the anchors under the roof

FA: rick phillips

19Sport 9m Sebastian Sakowicz 3 years ago

Hard start, probably should have warmed up on the other 19.

rick phillips

bummer it does not go thru the roof, well it probably does but we are weaklings, has a fun couple...

12 Dark Star - Bundy's Roof Flake Project

FA: Bundy

Unknown 15m Jason Lammers 4 years ago

EOTD Recon

13 *** One small step for a YAK

Hard start then tough moves around roof followed by easing head wall.

Start: 3 mtrs left of "NASA"

FA: rick phillips

23Sport 20m Jason Smith 4 years ago

Lucky it was ticked up!

Adam Bramwell 5 years ago

crag classic

14 *** YAKsative

Battle up the undercling flake, bust thru the crimpy rooves, and up the head wall. Classic !

FA: Bundy, 2009

24Sport 20m Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

one move is a little tricky

Jason Smith 4 years ago

Really good and quite sustained

15 ** Rock Star

Hard start on great rock to break under the buldge. Muscle up, and finish up BB.

Start: Directly under the arete.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

25Sport 20m David O'Donnell 4 years ago

rock stars play guitar hero;-)

David O'Donnell 4 years ago

rock stars play guitar hero;-)

16 *** Big Bang Theory

Starts off block at left hand end of wall, follow right trending bolts to arete, hoick yourself over bulge and finish up headwall.

FA: rick phillips

24Sport 20m Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

Fell off at the roof 4 attempts in a row then did the move each time:(

Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Second go, broke a massive low footer on the first hit out. Some good moves on this thing, makes...

17 Greenstick

Up the slab and into the roof 3 Metre left of BBT.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

12Sport 10m, 4 Simon Vaughan 4 years ago

Slightly engaging at the start

Matt Tranter 4 years ago

It gives us mortals a warm up.

18 The Rocky Horror Show

Up crack just right of nice grey slab trend left to Hitchikers anchors. Trad. 2 metres right of Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2011

15Trad 18m
19 hitch hikers guide to the galaxy

Chimney start then step right across explodo conglomerate to easy wall finish.

Start: Starts 50 mtrs left of 'Big Bang Theory' at next major buttress.

FA: daryl the dude jones

16Sport 20m Daniel Mackey 4 years ago

freezing morning + sharp pebbles = sore fingers!

rick phillips

fun climb, climbs totally different to all the other climbs in the area

20 Musical Distractions Direct

A more sustained version and a good warm-up. Jug over undercut start for two bolts to join into the original.

Start: 10m left of Hitchikers'

17Sport 9m, 4
21 Distractions Direct 15Unknown 10m
22 ** Burning Palms

Delicate start up flake/pockets/crimps. Slab move to break. Over bulge & left to ramble up headwall. Five foot flyer to finish !

FA: Adrian Child, 2010

24Sport 18m
23 * Palmasutra

A tough little number. Reachy pockets to big break. Crimp through crux bulge to awesome pocketed headwall.

FA: N Monteith

24Sport 18m, 6 Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

Nice bottom, hard off ledge $ me. 2nd go.

24 * Keyboard Cat

Up flake for five metres then right to break, punch through bulge on crimps then super pockets to top.

Start: The right route starting at big left facing flake.

23Sport 16m, 6
25 ** Psalm Pilot

A fine little pumper. Start up 'Keyboard Cat' flake but follow it all the way left and over bulge to juggy finish. You can avoid the flake start by climbing direct up the easy stuff - knock off a grade and the stars.

21Sport 16m, 6 Matt Tranter 4 years ago

Hard first pulls. Good top out.

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

quite pumpy

26 * Fronds of the Earth

2m left of 'Psalm Pilot'. Face climbing start with a great spicy finish on mega pockets.

19Sport 16m, 5 Matt Tranter 4 years ago

Great slab climbing. Airy finish

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

hope the crimps stay on

27 * Wormhole

The steep crack/seam behind the palm tree.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

21Sport 12m, 7
28 * Hyperspace

Juggy wall right of crack. Have a rest by the last bolt and launch into hyperspace to shared anchors with crack.

FA: Vanessa Wills

21Sport 16m, 6 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

contrived if you don't crack climb at the top

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

clip the last bolt and launch up the flake

29 May the Schartz be with you

Jam up the crack to lower-off anchor.

FA: R . Weller and Vanessa Wills

17Trad 16m Matt Tranter 4 years ago

Great trad route at this sports climbing crag. Hopefully it will remain bolt free. Thruch and gr...

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

nice hand jamming

30 ** Millenum Falcon

The wall left of the crack, finishing at the top of the block. Trad like finish. Both hands on rail below anchor for full value

22Sport 16m, 6 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

could do with some cleaning

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

really nice variety

31 * Crab Nebula

Start on blocks, clip first bolt and step out into finger crack. Up steeping wall past break

21Sport 16m, 5 John Lattanzio 4 years ago

way dirty, would be better if it were cleaned.

Vanessa Wills 4 years ago

tricky fingers then face

32 ** Dark Star - Bundy Project

Up WiMC, then follow the roof flake thru the ceiling to jug at lip. Up small headwall to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport 16m
33 * N1-H1

Bouldery climbing, lovin the power of the undercling.

Start: 3 mtrs left of CC

FA: Ricky "The Mayor" Phillips, 2009

18Sport 8m
34 * Musical Distractions

2m left of the direct. Juggy start heading right to thin reachy finish. This was Jacqui's first new route and first lead in two years!

15Sport 9m, 4

1.9. Sunshine Sunny Side 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.413315, -35.040291

Description:© (nmonteith)

A long walk-in protects this impressive cliffline featuring one of the most unique sandstone walls in Australia - a cliff covered in two and three finger pockets in smooth white rock. Just like limestone! Because it bakes in the sun most of the day it's a winter only venue.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

A lengthy 30 minute walk protects this area from mass development. Directions - drive 2.4km south-west on Turpentine Road (towards Nerriga) from intersection of Braidwood Rd and Turpentine Road. Turn right onto dirt road (quite a sharp ditch to navigate if in a 2WD). Follow this for 550m until you hit power-lines, turn left and follow rough 2WD powerlines road (ignore left turn 100m into this road) for 300m until road ends at first power-line tower (GPS -35.0463, 150.4226). On right side of carpark spot the coloured tape markers. Follow this well marked track cut through thick bush, left down into gully skirting rock wall on the right (5 minutes) , through thick bush, down into creek bed (10 minutes), up the other side, now follow as close as possible the top of the big cliff for ages, past small creek (20 minutes), and eventually the bush gets lighter and lighter. Finally you will reach the amazing lookout point where the cliff takes a sharp left turn (30 minutes). Walk left along the top of the cliff for another 100m (marked with pink tape as well). At the top of the secret descent gully is a big rock cairn consisting of three large flat rocks and lots of tape wrapped around a tree. Squeeze down hole into gully and turn left to find 'Faux Buoux' Wall about 100m along the base. On the return trip it's best to leave an hour before sunset to navigate the thick bush - or carry a GPS and torch. Getting lost out here would be a nightmare. Telstra seems to be the only mobile carrier that works.

1.9.1. Sector 1 - Descent Gully Area 1 route in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Mostly chossy extremes and minimal potential for routes. There is one good easy route bolted so far and probably not much more to come.

Approach:

At the bottom of the descent gully turn right (facing out) and spot the large right facing corner with a black slab on the right side. The corner is ringbolted.

Descent Notes:

Descend by lower-offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bunny Corner

Easy peasy. Right facing corner with a black slab on the right.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2012

14Sport 17m, 5 Nathan Merton 1 years ago

OK climb. Looks like it has potential to be a multipitch to top out.

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Pretty average climb with a high first bolt, not the best easy lead. Would be nice if it was exte...

1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

A wall that features very unique (for sandstone) water polished pockets in immaculate rock. All routes here are fantastic quality, and many are rope stretching in length (bring a 60m rope). The sun hits the wall from around 10am so summer is out. Gale force winds howl in winter so bring something warm for belaying. GPS (-35.0403, 150.4129)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Blinded by the White

Stay left. Maximizes the quality rock on this wall with a big girdle across the quality pocketed white rock. Follows the left line of bolts under the roof for a couple of metres, then over powerful rooflet and keep traversing left to final magic pockets to break and lower-off. Back clean or get someone to 2nd it.

FA: Neil monteith

25Sport 25m, 12 . 1 years ago

Pulled a rabbit out of the hat!! Bordering Mega. HARD.

2 The Ape Factor - PROJECT

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Sport 18m Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Hard moves!

3 *** Faux Buoux

The best route here - a New 'Nowra' classic. Pockets of every variety from start to finish. Goes all the way to the top of the cliff. This is the middle line, which has a slight leftwards traverse once over the first rooflet.

FA: Neil Monteith

25Sport 30m, 14 . 1 years ago

Chess on the rock. Outstounding rock.

Jason Smith 1 years ago

Great Euro style pockets. Super hard first go, a bit easier when you know where you're going

4 *** When the Wind Blows

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

FA: Neil Monteith

24Sport 30m, 12 Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Dog-fest. I'm of two mind about this. Until the top roof the climb is a Megaclassic (despite the ...

Will Monks 1 years ago

A monster! Nanna naps between shots and coughing up a lung mid-send suggests that I'm not over my...

5 *** Swiss Cheese

Easiest way up the mega pocketed wall - but still no cakewalk. Starts as for When the Wind Blows for two bolts then right past three bolts to join into Pocket Rocket for one bolt then finish out left through orange scoops and reachy finish bulge. Magnificent white undercling pockets as usual.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

24Sport 20m, 9 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Squeezing one more awesome pocketed route onto this wall. Super sequence of undercling pockets li...

6 *** Pocket Rocket

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

FA: Neil Monteith

25Sport 20m, 9 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Self saucing sandbag. Nothing like being spanked on my own route. Tough crux move, perfect pockets.

7 OPEN PROJECT

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Sport 20m
8 ** Steal Some Steel

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

FA: Neil Monteith

24Sport 15m, 6
9 Mini Water Holes

Good warm-up climbing the first half of Water Holes and lowering off big U bolt just over the rooflet.

16Sport 12m Nathan Merton 1 years ago

Loved the last move on this.

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Great rock in the top half.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Water Holes

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Sport 23m, 9
11 * Delicious

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

FA: Neil Monteith

22Sport 15m, 6 Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Only really one hard move, and still soft for the grade. The climb gets more pleasant and interes...

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Downgrade to 21.. Great slab route if you can crimp.

12 * Lost for Profit

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

FA: Neil Monteith

19Sport 18m, 8 Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Can I call 3 bolts of new climbing (between the routes either side of it) an onsight? Really good...

Vanessa Wills 1 years ago

Neil told us this was 21 and it felt like it.

13 * Sun Dew

Small dark corner 2m right of Lost for Profit. At the big roof crack undercling desperately left to join into LfP for top half. Crack seeps after rain.

FA: Neil Monteith

20Sport 20m, 9 Paul Thomson 1 years ago

Fell on the mantle, half a metre from the anchors. Missed the crucial footer out left and fell t...

Ben Jenga 1 years ago

Bolted trad. This route felt heaps run out even when standing on the bolt. A bit of crapy rock do...

14 * SunnySide Up

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

22Sport 13m, 5 . 1 years ago

Bundy gold.

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Repeat.

15 * Heal and Toe

Short and very steep rightwards leading line just right of SunnySide Up and finishing in little cave. Power. Stickclip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

23Sport 10m, 5 Ben Jenga 1 years ago

EOD attempt. A bit of jug swinging fun, felt pretty easy but just messed up the crux.

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Short and powerful - typical Nowra explosion.

1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Immediately right of the Faux Buoux area is a massive cave with a low ceiling. Walk under this on a sandy shelf to the far right end where some actual climbable rock appears under the roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Kicking Heads

Fun slab, roof and corner with nails hard undercut start. Deduct 5 grades if you pull on the first bolt. Start by teetering up giant cairn to grasp massive jug on lip of cave. Curse and thrash at lip then up pleasant polished slab to massive roof. Skirt left and around it past halfway anchor bolts (use these to clean the route). Up black jam crack corner to high anchors, Stick clipping the second bolt is recommend unless you want to give your belayer a kick in the head.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

23Sport 20m, 9 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Desperate undercut start which took me several tries to sort out - not helped that it was the las...

2 ** Forgot Me Knot

Awesome powerful climbing. Undercut start to steep hanging pocketed arete to arrive under roof. Swing right with difficulty to jug and rap chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25Sport 14m, 5 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

First shot putting draws on. Kapow! I love every move on this bouldery little number

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Awesome sustained power up steep arete. 5 shots today. Blew the last move three times in a row.

3 *** Forgot Me Knot Extension

Thin technical climbing adding three more bolts to the original past the rap chain on the lip of the roof. Rad.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

26Sport 20m, 9 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Did not expect this to go so easily. Found crucial right crimp and CRUSHED it to reach good holds...

1.9.4. Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:© (nmonteith)

Only one route and one project at present - both sharing the same start. Will see a lot more development in 2013 winter season! It's 100m right of 'Faux Buoux' wall, past the big cave and just after after very narrow ledge. Gorgeous 'Grampians' quality rock in the upper half. Shame that two chipped pockets were needed to make these routes possible.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Masterstroke

Starts on far right side of wall. Jam across horizontal then diagonally leftwards (some chossy sections of rock) to finish up sweet shallow heucos. Top half is gorgeous rock quality.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25Sport 20m, 10 Neil Monteith 1 years ago

The 2nd half of this route is super sweet! 2nd shot today - just.

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

The top of this route is simply stunning. The new hold is a master stroke. Did with one hang - sl...

2 ** Come Out Fighting

Start as for Masterstroke and at 5th bolt go straight up past chipped pocket to gorgeous finish on polished scoops. The top half is mega classic.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2012

26Sport 18m, 9 . 1 years ago

Love it. Awesome crag.

Neil Monteith 1 years ago

Last climb of the day I came out fighting! Wicked powerful punches between good holds on amazing ...

1.10. Tianjara Falls 196 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.335041, -35.103770

Description:

Hard to believe that TJF was popular before Nowra or Mt Keira was even discovered. The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality is 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone, very similar to Thompsons Point.

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities!

Location: Tianjara Falls - just a bit past Nowra. Turn off Princess Highway as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for Tianjara Falls, its about 1km on your right after the road turns into dirt. Park in the massive obvious carpark. Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...

The The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from Nowra to Tianjara Falls for the benefit of the sports climbing community!,

Approach:© (dod)

Tianjara Falls - just a bit past 'Nowra'. Turn off Princess 'Highway' as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for 'Tianjara Falls', its about 1km on your right after the road turns into dirt. Park in the massive obvious carpark. Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...

The The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from 'Nowra' to 'Tianjara Falls' for the benefit of the sports climbing community!, and is now a nifty 9 minutes from 'Nowra' @ 180kph in your turbo charged Subaru. There has been a noticeable police presence on this route since 2011.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Big News Day

A little steep and a little pumpy. Stick clip first bolt, over bulge and up flake then punchy crux leaving the horizontal break. Traverse right from bolt 5 then back left and up to anchors.

22Sport 14m, 6

1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.332215, -35.108163

Description:

Steeper and more featured than most of Tianjara. Quite long routes which start steep and juggy and finish on slabby crimps. Location: This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully

Approach:© (nmonteith)

This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Project - Bundy (G6)

The only climb on the first orange wall. Bouldery and Fun ! * Still a project *

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

**Sport Project 10m, 5
2 History never repeats

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

FA: Bill James, 1950

7Trad 25m
3 * Slab of Death

Up the techo slab just left of JTP

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

19Sport 16m
4 Just Think Pork

Up then right into vertical crack, clipping 1000's of ring bolts to lower offs at 2/3 height. If your a keen trad dad continue up the easy crack to the top to new carrot and tree anchor.

FA: G Hill, 2000

15Sport 16m, 9
5 * Grouple Girl

Start left of GG and up.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

18Sport 18m Johannes 1 years ago

Nice moves on the first section. Should be cleaned by seconding.

Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Adventurous bolting and a mare to clean.

6 ** Grouple Guy

Starts on the scoops to the left of the arete then up on great rock. Rebolted 2010

Start: In the sccops left of the arete/face

FA: G Hill, 2000

15Sport 15m Younggun 9 months ago

This is not a 15, 17 seems more justified. Quite exposed climb, shares anchor with Thriller Direct.

7 * Grouple RHV

Up TD for 2 bolts then climb around grey pillar and up GG to anchors. Still Needs extra bolt.. Aviods the crappy start on GG.

18Sport 20m Jason Lammers 3 years ago

Just for Doddy, he lurves link ups..

8 *** Thriller Direct

Rod's original line. Directly up left side of wall, thru overlap and easily to top. Would be handy with an extra bolt b/w the 4th and 5th.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

22Sport 18m Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Liked this climb, 4th to 5th was a good move for me but a bit run out on slab above overhang, alb...

Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Liked this climb, 4th to 5th was a good move for me but a bit run out on slab above overhang, alb...

9 ** Thriller

All killer - no filler. A fun arete. Climb first two bolts of 'Driller', then monkey left across steep pockets to nice arete. Up this through bulge and finish up crimpy face.

22Sport 20m, 7 Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Committing moves !

rick phillips

Very good climbing with a thought provoking move at mid height.

10 ** Driller

Steep orange face that's dry in any weather, and overhangs about 3m. Steeply through start to big white pocket, then screw your finger into the dubious mono. Come back in two months after finger has healed and pull the move again with success. Finish through roof. Superb rock quality.

Start: Starts 3m left of Rod's Roof.

24Sport 16m, 6 rick phillips

pumpy climb with a mind games finish

11 Rod's Roof

Up crazy scoop on the suss jugs, with the rock getting better as you go. Then battle through the roof and doodle up slab to anchors.

Start: Start on right side of raised rock platform.

FA: Rod Young

21Unknown 25m Ryan Whelan 5 years ago

top was ok

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

I thought it good, despite some bad press... maybe 22 ??

12 Corona with Lemon

A truly tried and tested favorite guaranteed to appease the taste buds. Starts on the far right side of the upper ledge. A little steep on horizontals.

18Sport 30m Johannes 1 years ago

The crux just above the 3rd RB is actually harder than 18 (as long as you don't use the flake/are...

Jakob Kapelj 2 years ago

Great climb, but very committing at the end prior to the ring bolts due to the potential fall ont...

13 * Peroni with Pizza

An excellent mid week option!. will prove to be popular. Another long euro-enduro adventure at the grade. Most of these climbs are similar, but this is probably the best one.

FA: Rod Young

18Sport 30m Johannes 1 years ago

Nice and long endurance style. Blew the onsight because I was wearing quite a big backpack. Can b...

David O'Donnell 5 years ago

awesome names.

14 ** Usurper

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

FA: Bill James

13Trad 40m Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Great fun trad, pretty intimidating climbing over the void with sparse protection, but there are ...

Jakob Kapelj 2 years ago

My mate cut his head open when a jug snapped near the double rings. Should have been wearing a he...

15 * Sol with Summer

A great addition to the market. fully imported. Sweet on sundays after a recovery brunch.

17Sport 30m Phil Ward 3 years ago

Great thugging up the washout

Stephen Hawkshaw 4 years ago

nice and long

16 * Carlsberg's at the Cricket

Does it get any better than that?..

recline the chair, sit back and enjoy the contest!

19Sport 30m Rob Barker 1 years ago

some nice moves

Phil Ward 3 years ago

Sustained and great

17 * Wombat Combat

A variant start to the route left which fully utilises the orange rock. Look out as a 60 meter rope won't get you off this baby in one hit you will have to break the descent and rap again on FM anchors which are 23 meters off the ground.

Start: As for Fricasse Maison.

FA: G Hill, 2009

20Unknown 35m rick phillips

The climbing is ok, the good part is its way long so you get some endurance under your belt.

18 * Fricasse Maison

A little tricky lower down but you will get used to the potential fall unless you take it.

Start: At Wombat Combat under orange wall and three meters left of corner crack Triantithingy.

FA: V Hill, 2009

21Unknown 23m, 10 rick phillips

great climb with a scary 3rd clip best to drop a long draw on it from the other climbs

19 Triantiwantigongalope

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

FA: G Hill, 1977

13Trad 35m John Wilson 4 years ago

A tough and horrible unit and much harder than 13!

20 Crispin Licks

Some holds are a little dirty but don't let that put you off. Generally its a pile of rubbish and i can't think of why i wasted seven bolts on it, only to say i liked the name string it would form with the climbs around it which are also rubbish.

Start: Left side of orange cave like structure. Two meters right of crack in corner.

FA: Hill

20Sport 12m, 7 Phil Ward 3 years ago

Pretty average when compared with Chicken Lips

21 ** Chicken Lips

Sustained little pumper with some choice little perfect pockets.

Start: Route that goes up the centre of the orangy cave like structure, between two traddy corners. Scramble up loose stuff onto start ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2008

21Sport 18m, 7 Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Great route. Nice flowing start and just a little bit of spice through the roof.

Phil Ward 3 years ago

A great crux over the bulge

22 Pinch Grip

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

FA: R Chunder G Hill, 1978

10Trad 35m
23 Slippin Chicks

All large items have been disposed of any further holds you rip off are your own fault.

Start: Ledge just right of chicken lips.

FA: G Hill, 2009

19Sport 12m, 6 Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Not the Crag Classic.

24 ** Statue of liberty

very nice two pitch climb a slab grade 12 at the bottom with a stunning 14 metres of grade 24 at the top

FA: rick phillips

24Sport 30m Jason Lammers 4 years ago

Top section is good.

John Lattanzio 5 years ago

good pump fest.

25 Shittin Bricks 13Unknown 35m
26 *** Mythical Tomatoes

One of the orginal classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it.

FA: G Hill R Chunder, 1978

15Trad 45m John Wilson 4 years ago

Superb moves and great position!

27 Shanadoa

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

FA: G Hill, Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

12Trad 50m John Wilson 4 years ago

The leftwards crack finish would be 15/16 in todays money and is loose at the top. An easy right ...

28 * Ketchup

A fine slab angle wall. Sustained climbing at about grade 19 from mid way up. Use the crack at the first blank bit or just grit your teeth and climb thru it for a better experience, not much harder this way. Graded only for the sustained nature. A confident leader will find it 19 all the way up.

As for Mythical Tomatoes at blocky corner leading to the left side of the ledge at quarter height. Up corner to ledge. Up wall using cracks as necessary to rings at the top.

FA: G. Hill, 2010

21Sport 35m, 12
29 * Cab Rank

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

FA: Bill James, 1974

12Trad 50m
30 * Maximum Multiplicity

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

FA: G Hill & Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

11Trad 50m
31 * Minimals

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

FA: G Hill & R Chunder, 1978

14Trad 65m

1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.333228, -35.107092

Description:

An impressive steep wall with heaps of quality jugs and excellent endurance climbing for the mindless thug. There are also some nice beginner leads as well. Location: Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from Bill James Testimonial Gully. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.

Approach:© (dod)

Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from 'Bill James Testimonial Gully'. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roger Bourne Identity

Up the dark crimpy slab.

Start: First climb u come to, down the walk down gully.

FA: Dirty "roger" Dude, 2009

16Sport 16m, 6 Phil Ward 3 years ago

Better slabbing than it looks

Simon Vaughan 3 years ago

Sustained at the grade!

2 Bingo Wings

Step off block and follow steepening slab.

FA: rick phillips

14Sport 15m Matt Porter 1 years ago

A tough choice for my first lead climb, Roger Bourne Identity felt much simpler

Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Not the best 14 for beginners on lead. The 16 to the left ('Roger Bourne Identity') is better.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Trad Dads Can't Campus

Start on the lower level 3m right of BW. Heave from pocket onto ledge then take the left line of bolts up the steep wall, onto the slab and on to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

20Sport 20m, 8 Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Great laybacks.

Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

A wandering trad climb of varying features, great fun, varied moves.

4 * Gym Junkies Cant Jam

Same start as Trad Dads Cant Campus, followed with lay back crux to gain the tops and on to easy ground to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

20Sport 20m, 10 Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Tough start getting up crack, top is fantastic.

rick phillips

again doddles get the name right "gym junkies cant jam same hardish start but go right after the ...

5 * Don't Give Up Maman

Harder for short people. Thin start on small edges and pebbles.

Start: Just right of Trad Dads,Gym Junkies start.

FA: V. Hill, 2009

23Sport 20m, 9 rick phillips

pretty thin and hard getting sequence right second bolt, now have found away, another high reach ...

6 Don't Give Up Maman - Direct Start

FA: V.Hill, 2009

23Unknown 20m
7 ** Upchuck

Jug hauling interupted by the burly break move.

Start: Between Trad Dads start and 'Dodecahedron' from the boulder.

FA: Jan 2009

24Sport 20m
8 *** Dodecahedron

The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper!

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 20m Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Finally, the red point, awesome climb!

Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

One day I'll get this clean, great climb!

9 ** Dave Fern

A great jug haul. Originally climbed on trad gear and the carrots now full of rings.

Start: At the initials DFA. Shares first three bolts with 'Dodecahedron'.

FA: Hill and Hill

22Sport 25m Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Long and pummpy but good quality. Really nasty run out to the lower offs.

Jason Smith 4 years ago

Bloody excellent

10 * Diamond Head

A right diagonal used to block those new routers that may sneak another line in. Large jugs are what every guy dreams of and this route has lots.

Start: Same Start as Dave Fern

FA: Hill

22Sport 25m, 10 Jason Lammers 2 years ago

Bit run out at the end..

Matt Tranter 3 years ago

Not as nice as the other two routes it shares the start with.

11 ** Gratefully Dead

Done in the days of the carrot bolt and mixed gear. When you knew how to place a good runner and dyno into a finger lock. Now of course its full of rings, and if you thought the run out was pants wetting then I placed a couple more bolts just for you.

Start: Under the obvious overlap to the right of DH.

FA: Hill

24Sport 25m Aidan 12 months ago

Ridiculous move on the overlap, not even close

12 * Heat Blast

Originally done on the old bolts alone, with a few rope stretching falls. Rings added later by Hill who dismally failed at trying to repeat the route. Name courtesy of Ben Ten.

Start: Under orange wall that leads up into the cave with two rings for lower off.

FA: S. Bullen

25Sport 15m
13 ** Custard Canon

A great climb with the crux down low.

Start: Right of orange stripe that leads to cave.

FA: G Hill, 2000

23Sport 20m
14 Snacky Cakes

Start a few meters right of Custard Cannon. Up the black blunt arete and continue up the slab to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2009

21Sport 20m, 10 John Lattanzio 11 months ago

Quite hard for the grade, probably 22, great sequences and quite sustained.

15 Yesterdays Hero's

The classic route from the 70s. Put up by the pioneers of the area. Just because they don't have a line of stainless drilled up em doesn't mean they're not climbs!

Start: Obvious big black slab around the corner right of 'Snacky Cakes'

FA: Bill James and Co.

10Unknown 22m
16 Traddington Bear

Ascend the face between LMS and the brushy gully. Start at LMS and move slightly right, then straight up. Stay left of the alcove near the LMS anchors. Top out and belay on slung blocks or other gear.

Apologies to G Hill for the name, I don't know what it should be called.

Start: 1 meter left of Little Miss Sunshine

11Trad 25m
17 Little Miss Sunshine

Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

11Sport 14m, 8 Matt Tranter 3 years ago

I would be a tad worried at the 4th bolt if I was a newbie.

John Lattanzio 4 years ago

nice easy one

18 * Hill Does Crack

Start at the obviou diagonal crack on the right end of the LMS slab. There is a very faint '18' painted/chipped into the rock at the start. Climb up 7 meters follow the seam as it diagonals left. Top out, belay on large cams under blocks.

FA: G Hill, 2000

15Trad 20m Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

Great climb, the overhang is fun and juggy.

Jakob Kapelj 1 years ago

fun climb, good semi over hung crux. Walkout to top.

19 Cool Bananas

Start8 mtrs right of HDC, off the big block which you get to from around the back. Hard moves off the ground for the grade, easing off at top.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

17Sport 14m, 7 Younggun 9 months ago

Hard start, the rest is smooth sailing

Rob Barker 1 years ago

I kinda liked the weird start but missed the jugs at the third ring and came off trying to crimp ...

20