A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. New Nowra - Braidwood Road 664 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.414083, -35.006222

Description:

The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality is 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone, very similar to Thompsons Point.

1.1. Afterburner Wall 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.464736, -34.920069

Description:© (nmonteith)

A single steep orange wall once visited by mysterious bolters who gridded the top with U anchors as well as sparsley placed them down some of the climbs. Some of the anchors were lacking glue but most of them are fine. The bolts over the top should be ignored as there are now double rings on the tops of most climbs.

Useful Info: 'Access' the cliff by walking to the edge and walking right facing out for about thirty meters. Look for a slot chimney with green rungs in it.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From intersection of Albatross Rd and Yalwal Rd in Nowra, follow Yalwal Rd for 10km west (past turn-off to Thompsons Point). The road passes a small lake and heads down a twisty mountain road into a small valley. At the 10km point, just after a small bridge, take the Yalwal signposted left turn onto the dirt road. Reset your odometer and drive up this dirt road (ok for 2WD) for 4.4km to a large football field sized dirt patch and bogan trash dumping ground on the right side of the road. Drive to far end of dirt patch and park car just right of centre. Follow small dirt road/track for about 100m to cliff top. Walk right align cliff top for 30m to descent gully and green rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Puke Skywalker

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

FA: G Hill, 2007

23Sport 15m
2 ** Aliens Route One

The first of the mystery routes on spectacular orange bulgy rock. (Very) annoyingly appears to be a rap-in to hanging belay and climb out route. Not sure if this has actually been climbed, or even attempted. Maybe 26ish??

Set by Aliens, 2000

Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 *** Alien's Route Two

Amazing central orange streak that looks like one of the most impressive routes at Nowra (seriously). Crazily, this may never have actually been done. Why doesn't anybody want to go and climb it give it a grade and some closure in its life?

Set by Aliens, 2000

Sport 22m
4 ** Alien's Route Three

When the Alien's bolted this baby they wanted you to find some balls, squeeze them together and go for it. Maybe these Aliens were British trad dudes? Start right of Aliens Route Two under large hole in rock and slabby pre-wall.

Set by Aliens, 2000

Sport 22m
5 ** Romancing The Bone

Pumper route with nails hard start and a crux way up the top. There is an easier alternative and this is to pike at the two closely spaced bolts just before the last crux its hard 23 to this point. You will see the bolts they are pretty obvious lower off anchors disguised as runners.

Start: Up on the ledge about three meters right of Alien's Route Three. In vague corner.

FA: G Hill, 2005

24Sport 23m
6 ** Trilobutt

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 18m
7 * Bum-eyed Bumosaurus

This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts.

Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2008

22Sport 18m
8 ** Bionic Barf Bunnies

Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp.

Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line.

FA: G Hill, 2007

22Sport 22m
9 ** The Sperminator

Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock.

Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one.

FA: G Hill

22Sport 18m
10 * Trap Buddies

Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground.

Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 18m
11 * The Back Slapping Crack Wax

This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!?

Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 18m
12 * Muscle Thruster

This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish.

Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes.

FA: G Hill

21Sport 15m
13 * Ball Burner

Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience.

Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'.

FA: G Hill

20Sport 18m

1.1.1. Main Wall 0 routes in Sector

Description:

The awesome looking main orange wall starting just right of the descent gully (when facing the cliff).

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

1.1.2. Left Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Currently only a couple of routes inside the descent gully and on the wall to the left side of the bottom of the descent gully (when facing the cliff).

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lisa's Monkey

The first route you pass as you scramble down the access slot. It's on the right wall. Cool in summer though a little sandy. Will clean up with a thousand ascents. Just look at 'Gun Barrel Highway' now!

FA: G Hill, 2005

16Sport 12m
2 Veg

This is the bottom route inside the access slot. Early bridging avoids the bouldery start. The climb gets a little sandy but is generally cool and ok.

FA: G Hill, 2005

16Sport 15m
3 * Rats Project

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff. Start at the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'. Go right? Graded 25 on the ACA guide. Who knows if it's even been done?

23Sport 23m
4 * Plasto Bambola

Start at crack to the right as you come out from the descent gully. Steep on generally sound rock and big jugs with a tricky headwall to finish. Up the crack until you can follow the line of bolts left then up the edge of the rotting crap on good holds, they really are solid believe me! Snake a little right at the top for the stiff head wall.

FA: G Hill, 2005

23Sport 20m, 8
5 Half Bolted Project

Nice orange wall and scoops 50m left of Plasto. The top half appears to be bolted, but they forgot to do the bottom bit.

Sport 20m

1.2. The Lair 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.485196, -34.955186

Description:© (gavin lyon)

The Lair is a sandstone cliffline up to 20m in height. It faces west so is good on a winters afternoon or early on a summer morning. The sun hits some of the faces from 10am in winter and you can find summer shade until 1pm. Protected from wind also. It has a variety of generally well protected easy to mid grade climbs. Established as a sport climbing crag with glue-in stainless steel ringbolts and double ringbolt lower-offs.

Useful Info: -34.9564211,150.4829561

The climbs are described from left to right as you are facing the cliff. 'Access' track is very uneven with a lot of forest debris.

Bring insect repellant, as there can be some mozzies around.

It is an excellent area for beginners and kids as it is generally child-friendly and has many bolted easy to moderate routes.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

If you are approaching from Sydney follow the Princes 'Highway' to 'Nowra'. After crossing the Shoalhaven River continue past 'Nowra' Fair shopping centre on the left. Turn right at the Kalandar Street lights. Follow the signs to HMAS 'Albatross'. When you see the airbase. Turn right onto Braidwood Road and follow this past 'Nowra' Motorcycle Club. Just after the motorcycle club take the next turn right onto a gravel road (Yerriyong Vale Road - no sign, but marked on Google Maps). Set your odometer. You will pass a fire trail on the right before the road drops down to a creek line and past a couple of properties(right) . At 3.3km you will notice an obvious 4WD track on the right (used to have sign 'Wattle Fire Trail' at its entrance, missing 2013) and carparking on the left. The road ends at a locked gate a few hundred metres past the carpark.

If approaching from the south follow the signs to HMAS 'Albatross', turn left onto Braidwood Road and continue from there.

On Yerriyong Vale Road there are 3 car spaces located opposite the 4WD track (10m up the road on the left from the 'Wattle Fire Trail' wooden sign). 10m south from the larger carpark there is a thin tree stump marked track (also ribbon on tree 2013) leading up to the cliff line (5 mins walk). Heading up the hill on this track brings you up to a gully between 'Sundeck' and 'Berlin Wall'.

Parking at the next carpark along and heading straight up through the bush will lead you to the 'Titanic' area.

Do not leave any valuables in your cars and keep the road clear as it is access to farms.

1.2.1. Black Wall 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.484680, -34.953906

Description:© (gavin lyon)

Distinct black wall.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

North end of crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tim's Torment

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

11Sport 17m

1.2.2. Sundeck 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.484681, -34.954255

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

Just north of access track

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fiest-Fest

Steep start on good rock. Left around outside of cave and up. CAUTION: Take care clipping second bolt. 4RB's to DBB at present. (Not as shown).

FA: Mark Rewi

22 RSport 12m
2 The End Is Near

Take care on thin edges. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: 21 Nov 2004

19Sport 17m
3 * Delta Cream

Start on the block 2m R of TEIN. Nice delicate moves up slab. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. Watch thin edges. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: David Casey, 2004

17Sport 17m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Fortunes Crown

Start 1m R of tree. Take care on thin edges. Past overlap then complete a short airy traverse to pull up between blocks. Named after the 'Nowra' poker machine that funded it. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

15Sport 16m
5 Barbeque Breakfast

Work your way up the slab staying right of the corner. Increasing difficulty. 4 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

17Sport 12m
6 The Bendix Promise

Up the right hand side of the slab. Good moves in second half. 4 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

16Sport 12m

1.2.3. Berlin Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.484531, -34.954859

Description:© (gavin lyon)

Generally slabby face climbing.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

Just south of the access track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Push over

Middle of slab in descent gully. 3RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

12Sport 10m
2 I'm Lichen It

Right hand end of slab in descent gully.

FA: Adam Dubois

14Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Chuffed

Pleasant slab moves. 5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

12Sport 13m
4 Street Sweeper

The flake then straight up the slab to the edge of the cave. Good slab sections.6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

15Sport 15m
5 * 6" Release Right hand finish

FA: G Hill

21Unknown
6 ** 6" Release Left hand finish

FA: G Hill

21Unknown
7 Triple J

Direct start to BTD. Start up the flake and bulge to join BTD at mid height. 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Mark Rewi

21Sport 18m
8 * Beat The Drum

The original and the best of the three. Up the corner then L onto the slab. Use the edge of the cave then up over a short section of hollow sounding orange rock (the drum). 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

18Sport 18m
9 Ninety Eight Point Nine

Mid height variation to BTD. Start up BTD. Move R on slab then rejoin BTD to finish.

7 RB's to DBB.

FA: David Casey

19Sport 18m
10 Bingo Wings

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

18Sport 15m
11 ** 6' Release LHV

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

21Sport 17m
12 * 6' Release RHV

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

21Sport

1.2.4. Members Area 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.484539, -34.955465

Description:© (gavin lyon)

Generally good steep rock. Best quality routes at crag.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

South of 'Berlin Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Sport 14m
2 * The Melbourne Connection

1m left of 'Origami'. Pockets to start then thin moves through to finishing jugs.

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Mark Rewi

24Sport 15m
3 Daily Grind

Up widening crack. Gritty.

19Trad 15m
4 * Origami

Steep arete at L end of grandstand. Problem solver. Reachy crux.

FA: Gavin Lyon, 2004

22Sport 15m
5 ** Cheeky Possum

Start as for 'Origami' then traverse right and up through sustained moves. Great excursion on good rock. 7 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

21Sport 15m
6 * Graba Granny

Steep start on big pockets. Good moves on good rock. 5RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

21Sport
7 *** Bakery Treat

Sustained and excellent. Varied climbing on good rock.

6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

23Sport 16m
8 Shoot it and Root it

6RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 16m
9 ** Back Door Bangin

5RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 16m
10 * The Nose Of The Umpire

6RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

22Sport
11 * Kill It and Grill It

Batman start. 5 RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

22Sport
12 *** Slice it & Dice It

Start as TNOTU then diagonally right. 6RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill

23Sport 22m
13 * Mr Pebble

Up the arete. 4RB's to DBB.

FA: G Hill, 2005

21Sport

1.2.5. Gardens of Stone 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.484539, -34.956114

Description:© (gavin lyon)

Smaller broken cliffline.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

South of 'Members Area'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Horses Gift

Left of 'The Dish'. Start in the corner next to the tree. Hard start.

4 RB's to DBB

FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008

15Sport 11m
2 The Dish

Start up the crack then step left and up the face.

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

18Sport 11m
3 Hazy Days

Up middle of slab.

3 RB's to DBB

FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008

17Sport 11m
4 Simple Life

Up the middle of the gently angled slab.

3 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

10Sport 12m
5 Cruise Control

Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab.

4 RB's to DBB.

FA: Alicia Townshend

9Sport 12m
6 Anti-Gravitron

Start on slab to right of overhanging wall. Finish next to small tree.

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

20Sport 12m
7 New Years Resolution

3m right of AG. Follow the grey streak to left of large diagonal crack.

5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Mark Rewi

22Sport 11m

1.2.6. Titanic 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (gavin lyon)

Isolated crag.

Approach:© (gavin lyon)

100m south of 'Gardens of Stone' area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Twilitght Zone

Sustained moves up the arête. 5 RB's to DBB.

FA: Gavin Lyon

20Sport 14m
2 * It's a Lark

Up corner past orange rock at ¾ height. Step right at top. 6 RB's to DBB.

FA: Jodie Matthews

14Sport 15m
3 Sinking Fast

It starts in an overhanging wide crack with some soft, suspect rock for the feet. It works up through a pod that can be stemmed and face climbed around.

Start: The route follows the obvious overhanging corner left of Dad's Comb.

FA: Bruce Hendrix, Marco Cunningham, Aaron Mbakwe and Tom Jamieson., 2000

16Trad 14m
4 Dad's Comb

Start under right-hand end of overhang. Step out and up following crack.

Natural gear.

FA: Chris Parfitt, 2005

12Trad 14m
5 Mum's Short and Curleys

Start to right of Dad's Comb trad route. Up to third bolt, step left and follow last 2 bolts diagonally left to anchors.

5 RB's to DBB

FA: Hans-Peter Gluck, 2008

12Sport 15m

1.3. Panther 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.431605, -35.017231

Description:

An area canvassing the cliffs between Moonshine and Hylands lookout. A vast amount of rock with a lot more potential and less broken cliff lines than other areas nearby.

About 35 routes spread out along a number of butresses, each with a very different feel.

Location: Drive out along the Braidwood road until you go past Turpentine Road (on your left a major road) a further 50 mtrs on your right turn into Deans Gap Road, follow this dirt road for a couple of kms until you hit the powerlines. Turn left under the power lines and follow them down the hill past one tower and stop about 100 mtrs before the creek (you know your in the right place if there is a small clearing at the edge of the bush and the very small ground cover is flattened by cars). Look for a white road marker showing the start of the track!

Walk westwards into the bush via the clearing and follow the track marked by yellow ribbon (John drinks coopers for trackwork donations) it will bring you out to a small gully. Go down the gully and go left facing out, you should be walking under overhangs now (for 200 mtrs).

When you get to the end of this walk you should be at the first climbs in the "Access Canyon" at the back of this canyon is a scramble to get you access to the other areas, just follow the cliff for 5 mins when you see a large curving flake your at "Story Wall" and just around the corner is "Tiger Wall".

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Drive out along the Braidwood road until you go past Turpentine Road (on your left a major road) a further 50 mtrs on your right turn into Deans Gap Road, follow this dirt road for a couple of kms until you hit the powerlines. Turn left under the power lines and follow them down the hill past one tower and stop about 100 mtrs before the creek (you know your in the right place if there is a small clearing at the edge of the bush and the very small ground cover is flattened by cars). Look for a white road marker showing the start of the track!

Walk westwards into the bush via the clearing and follow the track marked by yellow ribbon (John drinks coopers for trackwork donations) it will bring you out to a small gully.

Go down the gully and go left facing out, you should be walking under overhangs now (for 200 mtrs).

When you get to the end of this walk you should be at the first climbs in the "Access Canyon" at the back of this canyon is a scramble to get you access to the other areas, just follow the cliff for 5 mins when you see a large curving flake your at "Story Wall" and just around the corner is "Tiger Wall".

Go to 'Access Canyon' area for a location map...

1.3.1. Access Canyon 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

After walking along the amazing chossy overhangs, once you get to the end you will find the climbing at the back near the exit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Scumbag with a bumbag

Hard start or i was tired, easing middle then a nails hard slab at the top

Start: Hoist yourself up with some underclings then follow the vague arete

FA: Rick Phillips

23Sport 16m
2 Fine by Me! (project)

Start: Use the faint flake trending left, Put a long draw or stick clip 2nd bolt

FA: Rick Phillips

22Sport 20m
3 ** Simon's Dash for Cash

Hard start getting thru the pockets then up to mantles and easing to the scoop at top

Start: 4 mtrs left of corner

FA: Rick Phillips

21Sport 16m
4 * Jugging with Jasper

Starts in the corner then you layback the crack, which leads to a steepening head wall.

Start: In the corner, with the obvious layback corner at mid height

FA: Rick Phillips

17Sport 18m
5 * Frank & Beans!

Starts 3 Mtrs Right of JJ climbs the pillar thru the little roof

Start: Just right of the corner on the pillar made of stacked blocks

Set by Rick Phillips

FA: Matthew Tranter

17Sport 16m
6 Beer Goggles Project adam Unknown
7 Wallwombat's project Sport

1.3.2. Tell your story area 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Large impressive cliffs up to 30m high. There is some good (bolted) crack routes plus the usual variety of slabs, walls and corners.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

100m right of 'Access' 'Gully'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Whiskey A Go-Go (project rick)

This climb starts on the big flake and takes the left hand line of bolts

Start: On black and orange wall just left of cave with large fern growing in corner.

FA: rick phillips, 2000

Sport 12m
2 CBGB (project rick)

Same start then head right and pull thru the orange bulge, then pick your way up the thin head wall to finish at SOHO's anchors

Start: Same as Whiskey a go go and follow the line of bolts right at third bolt.

FA: rick phillips, 2000

Sport 18m
3 Soho (project rick)

Hardish start leads to easy mid section with a punchy finish

Start: 3 mtrs right of large fern, straight up black wall.

FA: rick phillips, 2000

Sport 18m
4 * A Bang and a Wimpy

Start 10m left of Boogie Nights, has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

22Sport 15m, 9
5 * Boogie Nights

Thin,technical and sustained slab climbing.

Start: Start just left of the shrubery on the cliff.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

20Sport 18m, 10
6 * Bring on the Fluffer

Feeling a bit deflated? This is the one for you. The black slab a few meters left of the corner.

Start: Start at the base of the corner.

FA: John Lattanzio

20Sport 18m, 10
7 ** Old Dog New Tricks

The left leaning crack in the wall 3m left of ICDI. Start at the base of the obvious crack. Some classic crack climbing and with face climbing at the top. Take small to medium cams and medium to large nuts.

FA: John Lattanzio, Jason Lammers

20Mixed 23m, 6
8 *** Rockaholic

Start 1m right of crack at obvious poocket. It's the one to do on this wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

24Sport 20m
9 ** Rock Out with your Cock Out

An ode to Hill !! Shared start with ICDI, then upwards leaning to the left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

22Sport 20m
10 I Cairn Do It!

No cairn needed!

The 1st move is the best move. Hardish bulgy start, then move out right towards the arete and up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

19Sport 18m, 9
11 ** Bullet Proof

Best rock at the crag. Lovely marbled pockets up subtle prow. The start move goes via a sneaky move from the block on the right. Bonus crux at the top through the rooflet.

Start: Starts 1m left of Seeking 'Solace'.

25Sport 17m, 9
12 ** Seeking Solace in the Bottle

Strenuous and technical climbing up the line left of the obvious square cut roof with a couple of finger locks chucked in to boot.

Start: Start off the block under the square cut roof.

FA: Johnny Wog Dog, 2009

24Sport 23m, 11
13 Steel Salvation

OMG, a bolted crack! Carefully up just right of cave and trend left up to the flake crack.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

22Sport 20m
14 ** Whatever Minger

20 mtrs right of square cut roof at off width crack.

FA: Rick Phillips

21Sport 22m
15 * Tell Your Story Walking

The left hand flake line. Start: In the corner. Climb the crack, surmount the little roof, the slabby corner to ledge and final headwall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

17Sport 16m, 9
16 *** Flake Orgasm

Excellent climb that traverses in from "tell your story walking" until you get established on the flake.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

23Sport 20m, 12
17 * Should'a Been a Contender

Batman up to 2nd bolt (or climb tree) then arete and nice face.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Flake' Orgasm on the arete.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2009

23Sport 20m, 10
18 ** Myopia

Great climbing once you get past the start shenanigans. Option 1 (the true free version!) involves climbing the tree for 5m and awkwardly traversing right. Option 2 (The better way) is just to stick clip the first bolt and hoist your way up batman style to the first holds. Stem up the hanging corner, then left under roof and finish up right line of bolts above.

22Sport 19m, 9
19 ** Coefficient of Drag

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

20Sport 20m, 12
20 Eyes Wide Shut (Monty Project)

The bouldery steep wall that gains the corner of 'Myopia' then straight out of the roof and up the arete.

Sport 25m, 14

1.3.3. Tiger wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Tiger Tales

The line. Mega !

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

24Sport 30m
2 ** Godzilla

Right of TT with hard stopper crimpy move on the slab. Then pump your way to the top. The longest route in Nowra ??

FA: Monty, 2010

26Sport 35m, 15
3 * Infans Panthera

Stops b4 the cave.

FA: Monty, 2010

20Sport 20m, 8
4 * Panthera

Left of TT - climb to the top.

FA: Monty, 2010

21Sport 30m, 16

1.4. Hylands Lookout 124 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.433456, -35.006873

Description:

Five minute access, accessible by 2 Wheel Drive and in a quiet wilderness setting, the Hylands is a sandstone cliff comprising 3 sections, the north-western and south-western cliffs and the "middle ground" area in between. The rock quality varies from loose flaky scabs and conglomerate, to slightly sandy, to clean and compact. The south-western side has continuous vertical walls up to 30m high, whereas the northwestern side is more broken up but has some interesting short walls, prows, corners, and ledges. The cliffline on which Hylands is situated is extensive and there is the potential for further development, both at Hylands, and further along the cliffline (Utopia Crag). There may also be some bouldering potential.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Hylands 'Lookout' is on Deans Gap Road located off Braidwood road

about south-west of 'Nowra'. From 'Nowra', take the Braidwood

Road past the air force base, continuing along the newly sealed

road. Around 20 klms from 'Nowra' a major intersection will appear with Turpentine Road joining from the left. 50 metres past this intersection, is a dirt road on the right with some chunky blue-metal gravel at the start. This is Deans Gap Road and is marked as such on many maps.

From Canberra, Deans Gap Road is about 100m on the left past the first 'Turpentine Rd' sign.

Zero your odometer when you turn onto Deans Gap Rd – it passes under some power lines (turn left here for 'Panther' crga access) after about 3km; at 3.5km from Braidwood Rd take a road on the left which appears on a right-hand bend; 'Hylands Lookout' is a further 700m along at the end of this road. If your car can negotiate the last rocky section of the road, you will be deposited directly on top of the cliff. There is a great view down the valley, carved out by Boolijong Creek. The road goes left for another 50m which takes you directly to the top of the south-western cliff. Either scramble down the cairned gully/chimney here or for 'Utopia' crags walk south along cliff top (follow yellow tags in trees) for 300 mtrs and go down the wide gully and turn left, continue along the bottom of the cliff for another 150 mtrs and you should come to "Crash and Burn" wall, just around the corner is "Middle Earth" area and 150 mtrs further is "Punch and Judy" area. To get to "Wave Walls" walk another 200 mtrs along until you come across a section of orange cliff about 10 mtrs high the climbs start at the end at present.

1.4.1. North-Western side 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Approach:© (nmonteith)

The north-western side is to the right of the descent gully described above, but the climbs start about 100m (?) further along. The cliff on this side is more broken up than the south-western side, but has more variety in the rock features. There are some sections with superb, clean rock which require little

or no cleaning, but also a lot of loose stuff. There are several ways to access the north-western side since it is fairly broken up, and this will most likely depend on which climbs you would like to get to. Currently there are two climbs that start from

the bottom of the cliff – 'Toxic Beauty' and 'Igor the Lada'. Apart from 'Easy Tiger!', the rest of the climbs are on the Sunny Ledge and can be accessed via a rock scramble from the top of the cliff. The Sunny Ledge is a good place to climb in winter due to its northerly aspect. If you can get your car down the rough north track, you will end up on a flat rock platform, and about 50m out from here is the cliff edge, although finding the access to the climbs from here is tricky. 'Access' is described

within the climbs below.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tree House

A nice boulder problem with a couple of bolts. Start at the groove, crank over bulge and up to the jug with the little tree growing behind it (try to grab this hold on the right-hand side to avoid breaking the tree's house!).

23Sport 6m, 3
1.4.1.1. Toxic Beauty area 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This sector is essentially at the other end of the Hylands cliff comprising Upper and Lower Middle Ground.

Approach:

Easiest approaoch is via the regular approach to the other Hylands Sectors. After descending the rungs, continue down the slope and walk along the cliff under Middle Ground Lower for at least 100m. After a little bush bashing keep your eyes open for a line of bolts up a pocketed light grey wall, this is Toxic Beauty.

1.4.1.2. The Sunny Ledge 5 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The area just left of the green rungs. Awesome orange rock. A good winter destination.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Scramble down the access gully as for South Western area, but when you get to the green rungs, head right (looking out). The first route is about 30m from the rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Two Up

Starts just right of the crack on the steep orange wall then traverses around the arete, not as nice as "Spinner" and a touch harder.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

19Sport 15m, 8
2 * Come in Spinner

Same start as Two Up then just blast up thru the orange squeeze out onto the arete where it meets the roof. Finishes at Two Up anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

19Sport 18m, 8
3 ** Sunset Boulevard

30 mtrs from the rungs at the first orange wall, has two pockets to start the climb then on the wall until you push out onto the arete

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

18Sport 20m
4 * Shenanigans

Starts in middle of black wall just around from Sunset Boulevard, then goes out to the right hand arete

FA: John Lattanzio & Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 15m, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 ** The Establishment

Climbs the right side of the the Establishment wall. Nice big jugs the whole way.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

21Sport 15m
6 ** Ivy Bouncers

Your arms will feel like they got thumped by five bouncers in a basement. Start up ramp as for 'The Establishment', then take left line of rings up middle of immaculate orange face, joining back into 'The Establishment' at the fifth bolt with a wild lunge right to the arête.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

24Sport 15m, 8
7 ** Project - The Gentlemens Club

Still active please keep off. Up the centre of the wall L of Ivy Bouncers joining this just before the crux.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 25m, 6
8 * Bloodsport For All

The steep, overhanging corner crack sporting stainless steel. Stem, jam and layback - just like a trad route.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

21Sport 15m, 9
9 ** Marmion

Just after steep white pocketed wall on undercut orange arete. Bouldery start best to extend 4th draw

FA: Willz, 2000

24Sport 18m
10 Willy Bonker in the Chocolate Daiquiri (project Will)

Start: In undercut steep blank roof Yay!

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport 10m
11 Who's Ya Daddy

Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

29Sport 15m, 7
12 ** Dixie Normus

The rightward trending flake feature.

Start: Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'.

After tackling the intial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

25Sport 8m, 7
13 * Long Dong Silver

Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then up wall above. Might be 25.

24Sport 10m, 5
14 Will-da-Beast (project Will)

Start: Just a slap right of Lap Dance, get both hands on a good hold and keep cranking...Ooooh Yeah!!!

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport 9m
15 ** Lap Dance for a Lazy Libido

Start: The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

25Sport 9m, 4
16 ** Lesbian Liberator

Start: Same start as Lap Dance then head left at second draw.

FA: Graham "Liberator" Fairburn, 2000

26Sport 9m
17 Seaman Staynes

Fun laybacking up wafer thin flake arete thingy 2m right of the wide crack.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

22Sport 9m, 3
18 Eric Shaun

Start: 'Worthless' mini route. Very left hand end of steep pocketed wall. The last few moves are fun if you put the blinkers on and don't stem off the choss to the left. Not a good warm up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

19Sport 8m
19 Project willz

Big orange arete with tough move at the end.

Sport 15m
20 * Rubics Cube

Starts in the middle of an orange wall, with funky looking features near the top. The track stops five mtrs on. Climb on the right side till second bolt then head back across onto the left wall before swapping back again, makes for a fun climb.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

16Sport 15m, 9
21 Work is Such a Wank

At the curving flake Fun climb well protected for first lead at the grade, some techo moves for the grade....Just think outside the square..

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

14Sport 18m, 10

1.4.3. South-Western side 50 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This side of the cliff is characterised by vertical faces, some are uninterrupted for the entire 30m height of the cliff. It tends to be easier to find your way around here, as all routes start from the bottom of the cliff. The lower half of this cliff tends to be more solid and so there are several climbs that end before the upper half. However some sections are good and climbs on these sections go to the top. Prior to 2005 there were quite a few routes done at this crag by persons unknown - and some of these have been retrobolted by recent climbers. If anyone knows more please get in touch!

The cliff is in the shade in the morning (till about 2pm) and gets the sun in the afternoon (although the bottom half of the cliff is shaded by the trees).

A short scramble is required to get to the bottom of the cliff. Locate a narrow gully with a few trees at the top to the right of the rock platform (marked with a rock cairn). Follow the gully down a chimney on the right, and then follow the line of least resistance down to the water-worn rock to a small ledge with a large tree. Below this tree on the left there is a short wall with big hand and foot holds sculpted out of the rock(another relic left by our alien predecessors). These days there is some nice green steel rungs to help you down as well.

At the bottom of the cliff, walk around to your left (facing out) and you will access the south-western side of the cliff where climbing starts.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

This side of the cliff is characterised by vertical faces, some are uninterrupted for the entire 30m height of the cliff. It tends to be easier to find your way around here, as all routes start from the bottom of the cliff. The lower half of this cliff tends to be more solid and so there are several climbs that end before the upper half. However some sections are good and climbs on these sections go to the top. Prior to 2005 there were quite a few routes done at this crag by persons unknown - and some of these have been retrobolted by recent climbers. If anyone knows more please get in touch!

The cliff is in the shade in the morning (till about 2pm) and gets the sun in the afternoon (although the bottom half of the cliff is shaded by the trees).

A short scramble is required to get to the bottom of the cliff. Locate a narrow gully with a few trees at the top to the right of the rock platform (marked with a rock cairn). Follow the gully down a chimney on the right, and then follow the line of least resistance down to the water-worn rock to a small ledge with a large tree. Below this tree on the left there is a short wall with big hand and foot holds sculpted out of the rock(another relic left by our alien predecessors). These days there is some nice green steel rungs to help you down as well.

At the bottom of the cliff, walk around to your left (facing out) and you will access the south-western side of the cliff where climbing starts.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Castor's Bullox

Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number.

Start: Two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box

FA: V Hill, 2000

25Sport 15m, 8
2 STTTTuck on U Glenns Project direct

Project

Start: Up WFW and then direct to Freeloader varient

Unknown
3 Dismember - Project Vero

Thin and hard. For those about to crimp we salute you!

Start: Same Batman start as 'Red Member'.

Unknown 15m
4 Project - Bundy

The right side of the Pillar.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport 12m, 6
1.4.3.1. Liquidity Wall 10 routes in Area
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

The first wall you come to once down the descent gully (after a choss cave). The wall features a slabby start, bulge and crimpy finish. It is located right below the south carpark. More routes to come here!

1.4.3.2. Dark Energy Slab 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A low angle black textured slab

1.4.3.3. Zombie Wall 7 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
1.4.3.4. Mystery Wall 6 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Just right of Zombie Wall, this impressive looking vertical wall with a striking similarity to the Blue Mountains.

1.4.3.5. Pillar Environs 3 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The free standing pillar and vertical black wall to the right of it. 20m right of Mystery Wall.

1.4.3.6. Member's Only 9 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Hard crimpy vertical wall.

1.4.3.7. Busted Arse Wall 5 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

The vertical wall just right of the obvious corner crack.

1.4.4. No Man's Land 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

Approach as for Utopia, at the bottom of the first gully turn right and follow the track about 100m to first climbs. The routes are described right to left from this approach. Alternatively can be approached from Hylands Lookout, Busted Arse area by walking along the base of the cliff.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

The area between Hylands and 'Utopia'

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 oopps Glenn really hard project

Hard start trend right easier as you move up. 3 metres right of Leeched as Bro.

Sport Project
2 *** Leeched as Bro

Straight up above the stump via 10 bolts with a rest halfway.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2010

22Sport 30m, 10
3 Ho's B4 Bros(Project Rick)

3m left of Leech as Bro.

Unknown Project 30m
4 Willis Project

Half bolted, but no more steel. When is the next batch of 1000m steel coming ?

3m left of Ho's B4 Bros.

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport
5 Glenn Project

hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up

Start: just right of the corner

Hard moves of the ground to mid height then meander up. just right of the corner

Unknown
6 Driven to Tears(Project Wogdog)

20m further left. The unmistakable thin crack in the yellow wall.

Sport Project 12m, 7

1.4.5. Utopia 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.434787, -35.010029

Description:

A great little area with a variety of routes on good rock, many routes stay dry in wet weather. From the Hylands Lookout carpark walk south (left looking out) along the cliff top and pick up a well worn track marked with yellow tape, at the first gully, drop down and follow the base of the cliff to Crash and Burn Area. Alternativly, continue walking past the gully along the top of the cliff for about 100m until you reach a chimney with a little bridge at its top. Drop down this, a little squeezy, under a large jambed chockstone to reach the Hells Gate and Middle Earth Wall.

1.4.5.1. Crash and Burn Area 5 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.434046, -35.009372

Description:© (ropedonkey)

The slightly overhanging orange and black wall with excellent rock and split by a right to left diagonal crack.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Access by walking down the first wide gully you come to and go left and walk about 100m to this lovely wall. Routes described from left to right from this approach.

1.4.5.2. Middle Earth Wall 8 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.434495, -35.009671

Description:© (ropedonkey)

Stunning white wall with oh so many features on it!

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Suck in ya guts and squeeze down the access chimney (really if you don't wear size 34 or less your stuck!)

1.4.5.3. Halfway House 2 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.434762, -35.009881

Description:© (ropedonkey)

75 mtrs south of Middle earth area

"Mash 4077" starts up left of Huge flake

1.4.5.4. Bushwhacked Area 5 routes in Area
Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.434986, -35.010022

Description:

The area just before Punch and Judy and arond the corner from The Halfway House. The obvious grey buttress split by a crack and bounded by two chimneys and the adjacent overhung grey wall.

1.4.5.5. Punch & Judy Area 14 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.435240, -35.010106

Description:

A compact little sector with excellent rock capped by a large roof. The routes here vary from slab to steep face and pockets.

Approach:

Just a few meters beyond Bushwhacked Area.

1.4.5.6. The Cinema Strip 1 route in Area
Summary:
All Unknown
Description:© (matttranter)

Large steep wall bound on the left by a large chimney and burnt tree. Lots of potential for hard routes up this cool featured rock.

Approach:© (matttranter)

50m further along the cliff line from Punch and Judy Area. Connects with the 'Wave Wall'.

1.4.5.7. Wave Walls 4 routes in Area
Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Well its the first time i have ever seen cliffs stacked in parallel with ten mtrs between them.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Walk about 50m past Punch and Judy Sector to reach The Cinema Strip and Wave Wall a few meters beyond.

1.5. Lassiter's 95 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.465008, -35.059152

Description:

Easy access along the base of the crag. There will be quite a concentration of routes that will be mostly 15m to 25m high. About a hundred routes in this new area eventually from grade 10 to grade 30.

Approach:

Really just an extension of the Gold Mine cliff. A five minute flat walk through the bush to get to the top of the cliff, take the obvious tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk accross the top of the cliff (tagged) to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope and rungs to help you get down.. There is also another access gully/ramp at the other end of the crag (Sluice Box sector) which is roped and has rungs. It's a little harder to negotiate as it is more exposed and steeper and probably better as and exit from the crag than an approach. From the main track, locate a little gully on your right about 40m before you get to the cliff edge, follow the tagged track for about 100m to the next obvious little gully. Rope and rungs at the base of this gully.

As per the Goldmine..

  1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.

  2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.

  3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left (Yarran Rd). Drive thru open gate. From this point on it is recommened you have either a 4WD or a car with good clearance. Sections of road can be very muddy and sometimes entirely water covered. A Forester or Rav4 is fine, a low slung sports coupe is not.

  4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right (Butterbrush Track) it should have a small "fire trail sign"

  5. 4.5km: Continue along this road until the road swings around to the left (just before big puddle). Look for the obvious Parking on the side of the road.

Look for the tagged track heading thru the bush to the cliff edge, then turn left and walk accross the top of the cliff to the descent gully. There is a fixed rope to help you get down.

1.5.1. Fucktardia 13 routes in Unknown

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A bit further on past the "The Mullock Heap"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Wogdog 8

Takes the obvious seam on orange rock under the large roof.

Sport Project 12m, 8
2 *** Five Star Dreams

Start as for PW 8. Takes the right hand line up the lovely orange wall. Tough start into the seam, after the third bolt step right and climb the wall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 14m, 8
3 Rough, Raw and Ranting

Start just left of a wide crack in a corner 8m before Wicked Ways. Climbs the grey wall under a large, chossy cave on good rock, then through the roof and little corner to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

20Sport 18m, 11
4 * Wiggle Room

Start at the wide crack in the corner. Batman the start to avoid an unpleasant grovel in the undercut offwidth (The batman start has been eliminated, might be a little harder). Once over the undercut, climb the grey slab on great rock to a ticky move before the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

18Sport 16m, 9
5 Wicked Ways

Starts at the undercut chimney about 60m right of Money Shot. Tackle the awkward start and bridge to gain the right wall then on to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

16Sport 15m, 6
6 Project Wogdog 13

Starts at the left hand of two steep cracks at the base of this steeply overhanging wall.

Sport Project 15m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Project Wogdog 6

Starts at a steep crack and the right end of the last steep rock of this sector.

Sport Project 16m, 11
8 Project - Bundy prou

Up tube to break then diagonally left under big roof and up on exposed jugs to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 22m
9 ** Flight of the Fucktards

Start at right end of cave. Climb up on jugs to exciting move thru the roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

21Sport 22m, 9
10 Doubtfire

Also in memory of the great Robin Williams. Start 8m left of Macmillan Madness at a little gully/chimney. Not as easy as it looks. Climb just right of the cave with some committing moves above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 16th Aug

15Sport 12m, 6
11 Macmillan Madness

Takes the arete and wall 1m right of the little corner. Pretty nice wall !!

FA: Bob Macmillan, 2012

16Sport 12m, 7
12 * Booty Call

Start 10m right of Macmillan Madness and around the corner. Climb the wall to a ledge, then slab and roof to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

19Sport 12m, 8
13 Mork and Manky

In memory of the great Robin Williams. Start at the little corner at the right hand end of this sector. Bridge the little corner, step left and climb on jugs right of the cave to the top. Don't let the name put you off.

FA: John Lattanzio, 16th Aug

17Sport 13m, 6

1.5.2. The Mullock Heap 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Apon reaching the bottom of the descent gully turn left (facing out) and walk around the corner under the overhangs where it opens up to 20m walls with another shorter wall at right-angles further ahead. This is the Mullock Heap Area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fingers

Hard fingery start, but eases off the higher you go. Start just right of 1st bolt.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 12m, 4
2 Knucklehead

Start 3m right of Fingers and just left of the cleft and fern. Climb the left side of the cave then the flake line to top. The bouldery start is over quickly then pleasant climbing to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 15m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Shoulders on Snowy

Starts 8m right of descent gully, at small waist high tree stump below steep hand crack. Stand on stump to start then take left line of bolts past scoop and up nice juggy headwall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

18Sport 16m
4 Dueling Drills

Same steep handcrack start as previous route, then take right line of bolts which trends right up steepish grey shield.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

18Sport 17m
5 ** First World Problem

Jam up the twin cracks then at second bolt take the left line of bolts traversing under roof. Follow lower line of bolts using little edges all the way to join into Dueling Drills. Finish up headwall. Long runners useful to stop rope drag.

FA: Neil monteith, 2011

22Sport 20m
6 Project - Neil

Halfway along left traverse on 'First World Problem' go out bulge via heuco and up steep fingerery grey wall above. Will be 26? Bolted by Neil Monteith who isn't sure he can do the moves,

Sport 20m
7 ** Hard Working Hands

 20m right from the descent gully. Twin hand cracks up bulging wall then fantastic traverse right across face under bulging wall then up juggy face above. Superb marbled rock. If you can't jam you might have serious problems getting off the ground.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

20Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Shadrach Memorial

The leftmost traverse. Funky last move.

FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2012

16Sport 20m
9 The Darkness

Right to left leading line up a big black featured slab.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

18Sport 17m
10 ** AeroPress

The middle climb on this wall. As per the Darkness, and then thru crimpy buldge. Best on this wall.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw & Jason Lammers, 2012

21Sport 16m
11 * Heart of Darkness

Start as for The Darkness. First two bolts of TD then straight up, finishing with a slab.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

20Sport 13m, 8
12 When you Smile at me I go to Rehab

Up the short wall between the grey and white streaks.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

18Sport 10m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Ego Tango

Leftmost route on this wall. Tricky start to rest and up to anchors. Its hard to resist the jugs on the right, but if you go direct on the finger pockets its 24.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 15m, 7
14 ** Spot Gold

The rather attractive arete on the left side of the orange wall capped with a roof. The middle route on this wall. Thin and technical start leads to sustained awesome jugs.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 13m, 8
15 ** A Spot Pumpy

Link-up :) Starts up the great pockets and face holds of spot gold then finishs up the steep part of rumpy pumpy.

FFA: Ben JengA, 2012

23Sport 13m, 9
16 ** Goldielynx

Start the ramp immediately right of 'Spot Gold'. Up line to cave then traverse left to finish up the 'Spot Gold Arete'

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

19Sport 14m, 8
17 ** Rumpy Pumpy

Start on the ramp 2m right of Spot Gold. Up the line immediatly left of the cave and through the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 14m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 ** Silver Bull

The left hand route on the attractive wall adjacent to the Spot Gold wall. Start off the ramp below the left hand cave. Climb the wall, staying out of the cave for full value. Great climbing on good rock.

FA: Jon Porter, 2011

12Sport 14m, 8
19 Money Shot

Start at the undercut, hanging arete, 4m right of Silver Bull. After the tricky undercut start, climb the arete, traverse left under the cave and up the steep wall past some dubious but solid rock to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

16Sport 15m, 7

1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The walls leading around right (looking out) as you come down the descent gully. The first section is black with climbing gym sized holds on it.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Team Shire cafe experience

Start on the right side of EP wall. Tricky start to gain flake and up to the right on pockets, then up on jugs.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

15Sport 15m
2 Easy Pickings

The lefthand route on the first wall leading leftward at the arete to anchors up high.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

14Sport 15m
3 Easy Peasy

As for 'Easy Pickings', then straight up to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

14Sport 10m
4 Take Me I'm Yours

Starts at the crack/corner 4m left of Easy Pickings, under the overhang. An awkward start followed by a rest. Up to the roof then punch out right and on to jugs and an easy wall.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

24Sport 15m, 8
5 Project Glenn Jones

Start around the corner from EP at the right hand crack under the roof.

FA: Glenn Jones

Sport Project
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Girlie Action

Start at the base of the slender wall left of the overhang. Climb the leaning arete.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

18Sport 12m, 7
7 Thick and Thirsty

Start as per GA, then climb the left side of the wall. Climbs better than it looks.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 12m, 7
8 The United Nations

Slab leading to small roof with the crux at the main overlap. Start 3 metres further left from Thick and Thirsty at the large up rooted tree.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

18Sport 12m, 7
9 ** Flame then Fire
  1. Up flake to belay on party ledge or continue straight through to next pitch; 4RB to DRB LO - 12m 14
  2. Punch overlaps of steepness past Perma draw on perfect grey stuff - airy finish; 5RB to DRB LO - 10m 21 Start at the obvious flake line next to the tree stump, 15 metres left of 'The United Nations' You can do this in one with no drag however it's more social to belay on the big ledge.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

21Sport 22m, 9

1.5.4. Metalloid Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

A compact little wall about 50m past the Easy Pickings Walls and over a little rise about 15m right of the obvious Rare Earth Buttress, capped by an obvious triangular pointy roof.

Approach:

After the descent gully walk right (looking out) past Easy Pickings Walls and a vertical wall to the narrow Metalloid Wall with a righthand arete, and Rare Earth buttress in the background to the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No Show

Start 4m left of Spare a Thought at crackline. Follow the crackline (the flake is solid, believe it or not) and on through the steepening to anchors. Will be desperatly hard after rain of if seeping.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 11m, 7
2 * Suffer in Silence

Start 2m left of Spare a Thought. The line diagonally leftward, through a roof and onward to anchors. The top seeps after heavy rain, pointless getting on it then. An engaging sequence at the start leads to easier climbing taking full advantage of the rest midway, then the roof to the anchors. Resist the urge to campus off the flake in the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

22Sport 12m, 8
3 *** Spare a Thought

Starts at the obvious crack 4m left of the right hand end of the wall. Up crack then veer right at the steepening then back to the crack.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 12m, 7
4 * Brazen

Start a few meters right of Spare a Thought.. Up the steep slab with a hard, bouldery start, through the bulge and on to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 12m, 8
5 Shits and Giggles

Start at arete at per TT, then up leftwards on micro crimps to break. Heave onto wall and up to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

24Sport 15m
6 * Tickles on Tour

Start 5m right of B at blunt arete. (STAY OFF THIS ROUTE UNTIL SOME SUSPECT AND DANGEROUSE BLOCKS HAVE BEEN REMOVED) Hard start, then easier the higher you get.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

21Sport Project 22m, 7

1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the Easy Pickings Walls to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high Rare Earth Buttress. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

Approach:© (wogdog)

Walk right (looking out) from the descent gully past the 'Easy Pickings Walls' to a prominent overhanging arete. This is the right-hand edge of the 25m high 'Rare Earth Buttress'. There is a 12m high wall of excellent grey/orange rock under a capped roof that extends left to a blunt arete, where the buttress changes direction around the corner, and faces the next grey arete section. Some of the routes around left start at ground level and some start on a ledge up 5m from the ground.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Where Eagles Dare

A tricky traddy start guards an easy and juggy wall. 1st 3 RBs on RE and then straight up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

20Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Rare Earth

The right-hand overhaging arete of the buttress to anchors up on side wall. Exposed! Overhangs at least 4m. Climb the arete of the block just right of crack to start, follow the RH varient 3rd and 4th rings to swing out onto arete and power up the exposure. Finish up RH side wall to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

21Sport 20m
3 Bundy Project

Start as per RE and then up swing on to overhung wall and up steeply to anchors.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

Sport Project 15m
4 *** Violently Silence Me

Great sustained climbing, probably the best in this sector, Right facing corner just left of Rare Earth. Layback and stem for 10m then over bulge and trend slightly right to middle set of anchors under huge roof.

21Sport 14m, 7
5 * Lithium Ion Direct

The undercut arete just left of Violently's corner. Bouldery start then easily up arete to join into the original route at the third bolt. A little bold between bolt 2 and 3.

22Sport 14m
6 ** Lithium Ion

Starts 5m left of Rare Earth at undercutt slab with rock cairn, just right of ferny crack. Up and rightwards to eventually meet arête, then up steep wall above to anchors under monster roof.

20Sport 15m, 7
7 ** Blood Sweat Steel

Start as for Lithium Ion then take wall direct past left facing flake and final big overhangs and juggy face.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Sport 16m, 8
8 ** Unobtainium

 Starts 5m left of Lithium Ion at featured corner. Up corner for one bolt then traverse right across face to join into top bit of crack. Up this to flake and then final short roof section. Clip and go anchors.

21Sport 14m
9 * The Gold Lead

  Originally led ground up on trad - now retrobolted. Start as for Unobtainium and take the left facing flake crack which leads right to under roofs. Traverse left under roof to little steep arête finish.

18Sport 14m, 7
10 ** Just add gold

Great corner link up via one extra bolt. Start up Nickel metal hydride and follows the corner and arete to finish at the gold lead anchors.

FFA: Ben JengA.

20Sport 7
11 * Nickel Metal Hydride

Great polished rock, Start as for Unobtainium. At the first bolt take the left line of bolts to undercling leading left to arête. Bouldery finish to clip and go anchors.

22Sport 12m, 6
12 project (Pockets Of Yttrium)

Starts around left of Nickel Metal Hydride left of rounded orange arete under roof. Start on ledge at ground level below obvious pockets. Climb pockets and wall left of arete to trend up and left towards crack. Up and through crack and bulge to double anchors up left. (first 3 bolts and last bolt & anchors in so far.)

Sport Project 18m
13 project 4 RE

Climb the first bolts of 2RE up pockets, move left and go across ledge left to double anchors. Belay here. The thin wall to roof and out pocket and roof heading rightwards to anchors over the lip. (2 more bolts to be added in thin wall.).

Sport Project 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 project 3 RE

Starts right of Leper Messiah, but down at ground level off ledge. Up corner to great polished rock on vague arete, unfortunately forced a bit left into LP for a couple of moves, up to roof and out roof rightward, up wall to anchors.

Sport Project 20m
15 ** Leper Messiah

Starting on the ledge around left, on the lefthand side of Rare Earth Buttress under the roofs. Thin and technical past first two rings on excellent yellow/orange rock climbing mostly right of the bolts to roof. Out roof on big slots to easy wall above to anchors right near clifftop.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

22Sport 16m
16 Good Strontium

Either climb up from ground level, or at double belay anchors on ledge climb short wall to roof left of LP. Up short, thin wall, out overhang and on up to anchors near top of wall.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

20Sport 20m
17 Promethium

Start on the same ledge as Leper Messiah, two routes left of it at block on ledge. Up steeply on jugs and up vertical wall to anchors right near top of cliff.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

18Sport 15m
18 Project - Rod

Big pockets to start then lovely juggy wall above. Rod has only placed one bolt on this route.

Unknown 15m
19 Hard Project

Not bolted yet. Hard steep start off pockets (inc mono!) then techy thin finish.

Unknown 12m

1.5.6. Metaloid Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

The area around the slightly overhung arete on the buttress left of Rare Earth Buttress.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grey Streak (Glenn Jones Project)

Start as for QJ, then move right and up the grey steak.

FA: Project - Glenn

Sport Project 18m
2 * Quality Junk

The overhung arete and wall. Scamble up to EZ start and ride the flake with a move about 2/3rds up. Watch that pump !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 18m, 7

1.5.7. Diamond Wall 6 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

Awesome light grey slabby wall capped by numerous small roofs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fools Gold

Wall climbing up the black rock just right of the awesome grey/orange rock to anchors under a small overlap.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

18Sport 18m
2 * Blood Diamond

Awesome climbing up to high anchors just right of big roof.

FA: Rod Young, 2011

20Sport 20m
3 *** Diamond Tipped

Up flake and wall as for 'BD' to fourth bolt, move left and up awesome quality rock to anchors on bulge up high. (There is a 3m project out roof above to second anchors).

FA: Rod Young, 2011

21Sport 20m
4 Project - Diamond Tipped Extension Sport Project
5 project 1

The route left of 'DT' , finishing out the thin crack in the roof to anchors up high and way out

Sport Project 23m
6 Hit The Motherlode (project)

Starts up BD, crosses next two routes diagonally and across lefward to overlap. Over and up to 2m roof flake, out and up to anchors way out up high!

Sport Project 25m

1.5.8. Nugget Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

50m left of Diamond Wall after passing a cave.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

50m left of 'Diamond Wall', just left of giant cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Hand of Faith

Start as for The Welcome Stranger. Up corner, at the second bolt break right and up wall to anchors.

FA: Neil Montieth, 2011

22Sport 15m, 7
2 ** The Welcome Stranger

Start in the overhanging corner. Up corner until it fades then left to nugget feature.

FA: Neil Montieth, 2011

23Sport 15m, 7
3 *** Atomic Fluffies

The right hand of two white streaks that leads to a ramp. Stand on the cairn to get a start. Start off a little vegetated ledge. The sustained crux with an interesting sequence relents half way up to an engaging and awkward top section.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 18m, 11
4 ** This one time, at Band Camp

Stand on flake and reach over and clip the 1st bolt. Pull down hard and crank up wall to break. Have a rest and climb the sustained wall to the top.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 20m
5 * Fluffin the Muffin

Start in the corner. Up the corner to a little ledge then up the wall. The bottom corner looks a little ordinary but worth doing for the business up top. Keeps you working for it.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

20Sport 20m, 9
6 Who Let Fluffy Off the Chain

Start 3m left of the corner at the crack. Follow crack then face to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

16Sport 9m, 7

1.5.9. The Sluice Box 15 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

This sector encompasses a number of walls and buttresses starting at a deep cleft/gully just past the sandy traverse under a roof with a fixed rope handline ( care needs to be taken here) and extends to just before you reach the waterfall. There is also an access route with rungs and a fixed rope about 15m left of This Wretched Life. This allows quick access to the top if you find yourself at this end of the crag at the end of the day.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Angelic Upstart

Climbs the seam and face just left of the arete. Start 3m left of the gully. Climb through a little bit of ordinary rock to get to the gold. Up the seam and on to the technical slab and through to easier ground to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 18m, 9
2 * Whippersnapper

Start as for Angelic Upstart. Takes the left line of bolts after the 3rd bolt of Angelic Upstart. Thin and technical climbing to the ledge (it's ok to step on the shrubbery) then easy to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

21Sport 20m, 10
3 Project Woof

Not bolted yet. It starts about 4 m to the right of Pavlovian. I guess it needs a Batman start (unfortunately), up to a ridiculously hard roof move and then sustained face climb. At least grade 24, I reckon.

PROJECT UP FOR GRABS! Top part could also be a more appropriate variant of Pavlovian.

Set by Steven Griffiths

Sport Project
4 *** Pavlovian Response

Don't let the batman start put you off as the climbing is both exciting and technical. Start under the hanging corner/seam next to a small spotted gum. You'll need Batman's assistance and sports a couple of rungs to assist. Layback and bridge the steep corner/seam to the roof, launch right to the jugs, then on to the easier exposed arete to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

24Sport 23m, 13
5 ** Rite of Passage

Great climbing with the crux down low followed by easier and enjoyable climbing to the top. Start as for Moral Compass to the 2nd bolt. Traverse right and up to the obvious crack which is followed then up the easier wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

22Sport 23m, 11
6 * Moral Compass

Ascends the attractive blank looking wall bounded on the right by twin cracks and on the left by a corner and large roof. Start off the block. Superb, thin and sustained climbing to the footledge is followed by a sustained easier jaunt to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 22m, 11
7 Project Wogdog 12

Start as for Moral Compass,then step left at the second bolt.

Sport Project 10
8 * Mugged By Reality

Takes the line just right of the bushy corner Start on the grassy ledge. Some thin sequences at the start lead to a mantle and on to the flake system and on to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

22Sport 15m, 7
9 Project Claw

Starts at the little flake line near the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof.

Sport Project 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Sassy

The rightward leaning arete at the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof. Start directly under the arete.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

26Sport 19m, 10
11 This Wretched Life

An unlikely looking face climb. Start at the obvious corner crack. Climb the easy crack to the ledge then step right and climb the technical face on fabulous rock.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 20m, 10
12 Suck It Up Princess

First route on a little buttress about 50m left of a green mossy slab. Start at the obvious little corner with a crack and flake. Climb the steep little crack and onward to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

20Sport 9m, 6
13 ** Princess Toughenup

Start as for Suck It Up Princess. Thin climbing and funky footwork up the slightly overhung wall left of Suck It Up Princess.

FA: John.Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 10m, 6
14 ** Princess Marsh Fly

Start 2m right of 'Lady of the Flies' at the flake seam. A bouldery start leads to sustained, technical climbing.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

23Sport 12m, 7
15 Lady of the Flies

Start at the base of the obvious flake around the corner 10m left of Suck it up Princess. Climb the flake and on to anchors.

FA: Emma Richmond-Darvill, 2012

14Sport 12m, 6

1.6. The Gold Mine 74 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.474174, -35.061734

Description:

This major shady cliffline is the very best of the New Nowra crags, featuring several sectors of excellent pocketed rock and more importantly height. The fine grained grey and white rock has a particular 'limestone' like texture in many places. The entire cliff faces south west and receives almost no sun - but is strangely great in the middle of winter. Summer is ok as well due to strong breezes. At 30m high the routes at the Gold Mine are some of the longest at Nowra, and many are true classics of the south coast. Bolts are plentiful - this is a sport only crag. The biggest downside is the rough road approach, the rap in access (20m from the carpark!) and the complex and hairy exit up a series of ladders, rungs and ledges. It is not suitable for kids, pets or geriatrics. The best crags are Cafe Cruiser, Fernville and Wasp in the Willows.

Approach:

The Gold Mine is located about 20 minutes South-West of the Nowra CBD and Thompsons Point. The last few kilometres of the drive are on rough roads that are only really suitable for cars that don't mind a bit of mud and rocks. After heavy rain a 4WD is mandatory - a Forestor or Xtrail is fine.

From Nowra: Continue along Braidwood road towards TJF.

  1. Reset your speedo at the intersection of Turpentine and Braidwood Roads.

  2. 1km: Continue on and the 620 sign will be 1km on your right.

  3. 1.2km: Take the next dirt road left. Drive through open gate. Continue on this dirt road ignoring right turn.

  4. 3.8km: Turn down the second road on right it should have a small "fire trail sign". From this point the road is much rougher and there are sections which stay muddy for most of the year.

  5. 6.3km: Continue along this road until it finishes at a small parking area and turing circle. Don't park others in!

Walk 25 metres down the trail to cliff edge - directly out from the giant big dead tree is a rap anchor on a little ledge. Fix a line here or rap and pull a doubled rope here (it's 30m to the ground - a doubled 50m rope WILL NOT REACH). The rap route is straight down the west end of Rockn' Tree Cave.

Alternatively, to access the base of the cliff (without rapping in) walk toward the cliff and pick up a faint trail leading to the left. After about 200m the trail leads you into a gully. Take care at the top of the gully due to loose earth and rotten rock. Trend leftward to reach the first set rungs to gain the terrace. Go right along the terrace, again take care though the sword grass and wet ground to reach the second set of rungs. Once at the base of the cliff walk right (facing out), keeping as close to the cliff as possible, for about 50m to find a fixed ladder and rope. Scale this ladder to reach Wind Willows Wall. About 10 minutes walk from car.

History:

The area was originally discovered in 2006 by Greg Wilson who bolted and climbed quite a few of the most obvious lines at each crag. After failing to get anyone else enthused he lost interest in this crag (but did return years later to chop some retrobolts) and the cliff remained ignored and forgotten until 2011 when the New Nowra crew of Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers and others got wind of the area. They solved the walk-in access route by installing rungs and ladders and bolted every inch of the place. The name of this crag was changed to The Gold Mine due to community sensitivities.

1.6.1. 22000lbs area 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:© (bundybear)

A long forgotten wall at the far left end of the cliff, currently very overgrown and unloved. There is potential here for a couple of new routes.

Approach:© (bundybear)

About 50m left of Smoke and Mirrors rap in area. 'Access' is from above by rap or from below via two metal rungs and some old rope. Currently very unloved and base is thick with ferns.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Last in Line

The arete. Stick clip the first bolt, then power through the bouldery start to easier climbing in a nice position.

FA: Greg Wilson

25Sport 20m
2 ** 22000lbs of Thrust

Orange face left of arête. An easy tick, check it out...

FA: 2006

21Sport 20m

1.6.2. White Pocketed Wall 0 routes in Sector

Description:

Nice white pocketed wall which is capped by a small roof. There is potential for some classics here, as well as several easy shorter routes. There easy exit climb to get you back on the track. Probably about 250m from the car park.. Just past this is a waterfall, and then you will be at Lassiters

1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors 7 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Description:

30 mtrs further south from Rick Rollers...Locate three trees growing clumped together rap 25 metres to the Ledge of Luxury! Bring lunch and a bean bag for the five star effect

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Flame

Same start as for smoking mirrors continuing the traverse along the lip of the cave out to the arette continuing up arette to finish at anchor for boab business.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport 30m, 12
2 *** Sun Dance Kid

same start as for SM then breaks off to the right about half way up, following the orange flake and up through the crack along the small roof, then moving to the top trending right.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

24Sport 27m, 10
3 *** Smoking Mirrors

Looks amazing, is amazing !! Awesome rock. Start off the ledge as per DD, keep heading right out on the wall and follow the flake feature in ridiculous position. Following the line straight up where the black rock meets the orange rock all the way to top.

Set by Jake Noblett, 2013

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

23Sport 25m, 10
4 * Dumpster Diving

Step right off ledge, using insecure feet to gain the arete. Thin holds lead to a thank god jug and you move onto the other wall and steeply to the top

FA: Rick, Bundy and Jake

22Sport 20m
5 ** Tic-tac-toe

Same start as DD, then directly up thru the bulges with increasing pump - eases off the higher you get.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2013

FA: Jason Lammers and Rick Phillips, 2013

23Sport 20m
6 Fuck the Mojo - Bundy Project

Shared start with the others and then up and back left fighing the pump to a delicate crux. Once you have reached the giant pocket its smooth sailing to the top. Hand over the top to clip single bolt. Back jump to anchors below the rooflet to clean.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 20m
7 *** Where's The Gold

starts on the left side of ledge going straight up to anchors. Same finish as for FTM.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport 20m, 9

1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Some great quality rock but some high admin access! This novelty sector features a spectacular hanging belay off a 'permaledge' - a permanent portaledge bolted to the rock. All the climbs here are magnificent quality and with the bonus exposure make for some of the best routes at The Gold Mine.

Approach:

Walk about 100m north of the carpark along the cliff top - and find a large rock cairn marking the top of this sector. Near the edge of the cliff below the cairns are two rap rings set on horizontal rock just below a large tree. Fix a 35m+ rope and rap 20m down to cosy permaledge. Stay clipped in at ALL times and be careful not to tip the ledge. You will have to clip into a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock. When you are finished climbing here, rap an extra 15m to the floor and walk right along cliff base to reach Cafe Cruiser Wall and the usual exit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Who's Who in the Climbing Zoo

Pretty airy! Up off the ledge for one bolt then traverse right, across corner to overhung arete. Up this taking the right most line of bolts over the sucking void.

Set by Jason Lammers & Rick Phiilips, 2013

FA: Rick Phillips, Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2013

22Sport 20m
2 * Hypocritical Has Beens

At last, an easy way off the permaledge. Traverse right to adjoining wall and continue steeply to top. Not as great a climb as the others off this ledge but good all the same

FA: Rick Phillips, Jake Noblett and Doug Bell

18Sport 20m
3 Jenga's the best and bundy has way to many projects.- PROJECT

Up HR, then move right under rooflet. Find the pocket and up the easy wall.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 20m
4 ** High Roller / Six Pack Tummies

Great quality rock, with some amazing pockets down low. The right line of bolts off the permalegde, sharing the first couple of bolts with Crash Test Dummies. Might be grade 25.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 20m
5 *** Jungle Love

Climb start for 'High Roller' clipping first 4 bolts, take a 3-4m run out traverse to the left to clip bolt just above roof on 'Crash Test Dummies'. Continuing to traverse the juggy roof merging up to anchor of '3D Disco'.

FA: Jake Noblett, 8th Jun

25Sport 25m, 10
6 ** Crash Test Dummies

Great sustained climbing all the way. Follows the line you rap down to access the permaledge. Shared first bolt with High Roller then straight up (with difficulty) to roof. Take care not to pull on the lip of the tempting roof-flake (marked with an X). It flexes and is directly above your belayer!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport 20m
7 *** 3D Disco

A killer line in an outrages position. One of the best routes at the Gold Mine. Step left with difficulty off the permaledge over the void to reach the undercling flake. Follow it to the corner then up this on massive jugs and finish up headwall. Lower-off into space and get your belayer to lasso you and haul you back in again. You will need a 2nd to clean the route.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

20Sport 20m
8 ** Protein Pill

Follow 3D Disco all the way to the end of the steepness, then take left trending rings up grey face.

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 22m
9 *** Frequent Flyer Points

Follow the juggy flake as for 3D Disco to a rest just bellow the roof. Move off through the roof, left of the major corner, following the lower flake, then moving out and up the head wall. The quality of the rock on this route is crazy cool!

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

24Sport 20m, 11
10 *** Boab Business

Wow. This climb rips it in the way of exciting moves, exposure, sweet location and great quality rock. Possibly worthy of 4 stars! The first half of the route shares the start of 3D Disco up to the rest. After moving onto the roof, merge off 3D Disco, traversing left through the lower flake of the roof, staying below the bolts until moving out of the roof onto the face. Traverse left along the face to the arette, following arette to the top.

FA: Jake Noblett, 2013

26Sport Project 31m, 15

1.6.5. Amazonia 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

The section of impressive roofs to the left of Cafe Cruiser Wall, with thickset jungle at the base. Only one route here so far.

Approach:

Walk 30m left of Cafe Cruiser Wall, trying not to get your feet wet and not slipping down the ferny hillside. Keep about 5m away from the cliffline on a ledge system until you can spot the stone steps leading up to the base of the routes. Don't step in the orange slime!

Descent Notes:

The routes here are 30m high - use a long rope.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * More Fun Than a Bunch of Monkeys

Ridiculous steepness. The middle corner section seeps after rain, but can be mostly avoided by stemming, Stick-clip very high ringbolt and batman up to it. Tricky move up onto slab, then easy jugs up vertical wall to right edge of massive roof. Negotiate past green slime corner, then swing left and out massive roof on amazing horns to lip. Tough move over this then up overhung grey wall for even more pump. Cleaning this route involves either a willing second or a combo or re-threading and back-jumping.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

24Sport Project 28m, 11
2 ** Amazonia

Really steep climbing on excellent rock - once you get past the first few metres. Either sketch up the brittle start or batman up to first bolt (add a star if you do this!). Hard move at first bolt involving slopers and a tricky highstep layback section. Up juggy flakes to mega roof - out this on mostly big holds and finish up killer headwall. Extended runners to avoid rope drag.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25Sport 30m, 11
3 Adventureland (NEIL'S PROJECT)

Biggest, steepest line at The Gold Mine. Start as for Amazonia for 3 bolts then take the left line through the roof and out out out. Overhangs at least 10m. Closed project - stay off please.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

Sport Project 30m

1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall 10 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This impressive bulging white wall contains some of the best mid grade routes in the Nowra region. At 30m high, the routes here are long and sustained on excellent quality rock. Get ready to get pumped! A single set of rungs gets you up onto the start ledge of the middle routes. WARNING - a 60m rope is required!

Approach:

The wall is 20m west of the carpark - rap in.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs. 60m rope required.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Drop Tongue

As per Bromance, and keep moving left to obvious belay ledge. Camp out and battle the tougue and steepness on the second pitch.

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport Project 32m
2 Black Butt (Bromance Direct)

Direct start to 'Bromance' starting about 6m left of the rungs. Stick clip first bolt and batman (climbable in dry conditions) up so you don't get your feet wet in the muddy start. Bouldery on pockets then jam up the hand crack to join into 'Bromance'.

Alternatively, (for a more strenuous finish), head left and do the 2nd pitch of 'Drop Tongue'.

21Sport 30m
3 *** Bromance

Up CC for a few bolts and then move left and up thru the bulges to top

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 30m
4 *** Café Cruiser

Probably the best 20 in Nowra. Obvious start then up to the flake and jug your way to the top.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

20Sport 30m
5 *** Sucked in Spartacus

Off belay ledge, trend left two bolts then straight up on flakes till the over laps

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 25m, 12
6 *** You can't handle me Ruth

Off belay ledge and takes the left line of bolts nearly straight up, climbing small flakes and pockets till jugs thru the mini roof

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 30m
7 ** Short Sharp Explanation

Off belay ledge the Right hand line of bolts nearly straight up, climbs the large flake and up thru the roof

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

24Sport 25m
8 *** Forest Stump

Back down on the ground, furthest most right line of bolts up wall using underclings and small pockets, hard thru overhangs.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

23Sport 28m
9 * 97% Fern Free

Fern Free variant of BP. Up BP, till it gets easy then trend left up to crimps past 3 more RB's. Finish on FS anchor.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

23Sport 25m
10 ** Bumpin' Peepees

Start 2m right of ST. Bouldery to gain the flake, then up the slabby stuff and into the steeper stuff to finish with a jug haul.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport 23m, 11

1.6.7. Rock'n Tree Cave 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This huge cave is the most impressive bit of rock at The Goldmine. It begins with a slippery grey 'slab' for the first 10m then overhangs alarmingly through several major roof sections and caps with a section of pocketed grey headwall. All routes are long - a 30m rope is required for lowering off, and long slings are needed to stop rope drag.

Approach:

Located immediately right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and directly below the carpark. If you use the access rap chains you rap down the left side of this wall.

Descent Notes:

Due to steepness all routes require back jumping.

History:

'Monty' equipped the first route here but waited two years to actually send it. Matt Pascoe had the real vision and equipped the two longest and steepest sections.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Simple Life

The hardest route at New Nowra? Left most line directly up through the massive steepness. Scramble up shale mess to small ledge. Bouldery and unlikely start onto the white white (ignore seepy seam) - then up and out out out. Spaced bolting.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

FA: Matt Pascoe, 2013

29Sport Project 25m, 8
2 Open Project

As for The Simple Life for three bolts, then right and through centre of cave. Runout and hard.

Set by Matt Pascoe, 2011

Sport Project 25m, 9
3 Project - Matt B

Start as for Jerkyll and Hyde but follow the scoop to join the open project. Follow this till the last bolt on the roof, then move diagonally R to join J&H again at the lip.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport Project 30m, 12
4 *** Jerkyll & Hyde

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Pascoe, 2013

25Sport 30m, 13

1.6.8. Ugly Duckling Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

This poxy section between Rockn' Tree Cave and Fernville has a couple of questionable routes that feature seeping and creaking flakes, glue, rungs and lichen. Only for the climber who has done everything else in the region. Stars are given from the first ascentist. Be warned - it is unlikely any of these routes have had a repeat.

Approach:

This section of cliff starts immediately right of Rockn' Tree Cave and left of Fernville. Look for the section of rock you would least like to climb.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs less than 25m up the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Remorseless

Climbs the left side of the obvious arete at the right end of Rockn' Tree Cave starting left of the corner to a ledge right of the chimney. Awkward start is overcome by bridging of the tree to a rest, thin face climbing on good holds leads to the arete. The start seeps badly after rain and the upper section is dirty.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2013

21Sport 15m, 9
2 * Ugly Duckling

Start at the tiny alcove 6m right of the left end of the grey wall. Up the steep flake system, using the staples at the start to keep your feet dry and trying to avoid the seep. Some awsome barndoor moves to gain the upper flake then steep wall to anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

25Sport 15m, 9
3 * Pleasure Spiked With Pain

Start in the middle of the grey wall. A bouldery sequence leads to sustained climbing which relents at half height to a pleasurable jaunt above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 25m, 12
4 * Waste of Sin

Start at the right hand end of the grey wall under the arching overlap feature in between two endless seeping water streaks. Thin and technical down low, engaging (ie crumbly) climbing above.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

22Sport 15m, 8

1.6.9. Fernville 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:© (ropedonkey)

A great section of pocketed vertical wall that is generously grid bolted. The style is more technical and sustained than powerful. Just look for the sea of ferns and the outstanding buttress of Powder Burns.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

About 100m right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and just right of the Ugly Duckling Wall. To the right of this section of cliff is a long section of ultra choss monster roofs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Very Thick Piece of Toast

The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

25Sport 15m, 9
2 *** Tecktonik

2m right of VTPoT. Up on little pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

24Sport 14m
3 *** Pocket Shot

Start as for WtBF, vere leftwards at 2nd bolt to nice flake and follow the awesome pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

23Sport 16m, 6
4 * What's This Button For?

One of the original lines at the Gold Mine. Up the pockets to lower offs under the roof.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

22Sport 15m
5 ** Just Desserts are Not Slimming

Start up the boulder to clip first bolt then jump on wall and blast out through the roof. Back jump roof to clean. Be careful of suss flakes in roof. Originally graded 25, but most now consider it more like 23/24.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

24Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Resurrection

Up the fallen boulder clipping bolt on left then on wall crimping like a Banshee.

FA: Gilles Bonin, 2011

21Sport 12m
7 ** Caught Napping

Up block in corner then straight up wall to anchors just right of roof.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

21Sport 15m
8 ** Cover Boy

Up slab then step onto ferny ledge on right. Crank up sweet (or desperate) diagonal finger crack leading rightwards.

FA: Jesse Lomas, 2006

22Sport 16m
9 *** Powder Burns

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt and grovel into ferny corner on the left until level with the first bolt. Now traverse hard right past first bolt and up pocketed face above. Harder direct start seems possible, but no one appears to have done it. The actual first ascentist of this route remains a mystery.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

25Sport 20m

1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows 14 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

Great rock and friendly grades with lots of bolts will ensure this area is popular with the masses. Most routes stay dry in the light rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zis is KAOS

The only true easy route at the Gold Mine. Start at the ledgy handcrack at left end of the wall. Jam easily up the crack and pull the scoopy bulge to the anchors.

FA: Jon Porter, 2011

17Sport 15m, 7
2 ** Snitch

Start 1m right of Zis is KAOS. Thin and technical climbing with a burly finish.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

24Sport 13m, 7
3 ** After the Rapture

This one was done on the day the world was supposed to end.Start 3m left of BotB. Bulging wall which is technical and sustained.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

23Sport 15m, 8
4 * Battle of the Bulge

5m left of DF

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

22Sport 15m, 6
5 ** Dragon Fly

2m left of WiW thin climbing at start leads to crux with great steep moves at top.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

22Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 ** Truck stop Party Girl

Just left of WiW, but crosses over mid height and thru the roof and up to jugs.

FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011

22Sport 22m
7 ** Wasp in the Willows

Up the crack that stops at 5m, climbs the pockets and features left of crack thru the bulges. Way cool !

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

18Sport 25m
8 Skirt Wearing Nancyboy

Rick named this climb after himself. Stand on big flake, tricky start and then nice crimping to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

19Sport 15m
9 Foreplay

Choice of 2 starts, then up on nice rock.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

16Sport 15m
10 Espresso

Right of F, up the crack then into the white streak.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Buckingham Bunga

Start at the crack in the middle of the orange wall, and then up and thru the roof to finish on head wall.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

21Sport 22m
12 After Dinner Sex Games

The next crack along. Up crack and up into beaut easy rock to shared lower off with TBBC

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

18Sport 18m
13 * The Bunga Bunga Climb

Shares 1st bolt with BJ, then up and left on awesome pockets with an iteresting finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

21Sport 18m
14 ** Beetle Juice

15m right of WiW near large boulder in corner.

FA: Rick Phiilips, 2011

21Sport 15m

1.6.11. Sandpaper Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Bordering the right side of Wasp in the Willows is this long vertical wall with a confusing array of bolts. All but one of the routes share the same start - up the thin crack. This crack tends to seep down low, and sometimes requires a batman start.

Approach:

This section of cliff is directly above the fixed aluminum ladder, and just right of Wasp in the Willows sector.

Descent Notes:

Watch your rope length when lowering off - these climbs are a touch higher than 25m.

History:

As usual Greg Wilson bolted the original route on this sector, Sandpaper Sally, and Bundy and Rick covered the remaining rock in rings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hung Out To Dry

Whilst not the greatest rock quality the height, sea views and friendly jugs make for one of the best easy routes here. Layback up the right facing corner then up the sustained face above. This is a good end of day exit route if you top out.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

17Sport 25m
2 ** Fair weather trainer

Up 'Sandpaper Sally' for 3 bolts then, lean out left on big sidepull and up the long wall. Sustained !

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

22Sport 26m
3 ** Sandpaper Sally

Starts in the small seam and follows till it blanks out, take a rest in the cave then up the awesome long headwall.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

18Sport 24m
4 * Air Active

As per SS, then step right over cave and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

20Sport 25m
5 * Ocean Views

Up SS and at first bolt take the right hand line up the middle of wall.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

19Sport 28m

1.6.12. Wringer Wall 2 routes in Feature

Summary:
Description:

A steep orange wall located between the two sets of rungs, above the rope handrail, on the descent. The base is usually muddy and unpleasant to belay from.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Through the Wringer

Leftward diagonal line starting a few meters before the rope handrail, finishing through a little roof. Some nice slabbing then burly moves through the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

21Sport Project 15m, 8
2 Wrung Out (Project Wogdog)

Start mid way along the rope handrail. Thrugh black rock to crack and scooped bulge.

Sport Project 14m, 10

1.6.13. Descent Gully Walls 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

A shorter vertical wall that you pass when descending the highest set of rungs (before the highest section of the fixed ropes). The rock is a little sandy but the bolts are plentiful.

Approach:

From the carpark walk about 200m east (left when standing on the top of the cliff looking at the view). Follow a few yellow tape markers and a well worn track to a steep loose descent gully. Down this for a 10m then left along ledge system below short cliff to first set of rungs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rock Dodgin Lawn Bowlin Granny

First route on the descent of the gully. Up via 3 bolts trending onto wall between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Ok just a bit gritty.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

15Sport 6m, 5
2 Forlorn Bowls

Start on ledge above upper set of rungs on the descent. Up the right facing flake.

FA: Bob Macmillan, 2011

17Sport 14m, 6
3 Token

1m left of Thin Edge of the Wedge at small corner with hand crack up left side. Up corner for four metres to ledge then up juggy face.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

15Sport 13m, 4
4 * Thin Edge of the Wedge

Nice warmup and probably the best 'easy' route at the Goldmine. Thin crack with lots of jugs on grey wall about 3m right of access rungs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

16Sport 13m, 5

1.7. Capricornia 12 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.474261, -34.986233

Description:

Named after the rather large heard of goats milling around the top when the cliff was discovered. About 500m of cliffline offering a variety of styles of climbing,split by an easy access gully, which divides the cliff into a northern and southern sector.

1.7.1. Southern Sector 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.474032, -34.983883

Description:

This crag faces southwest and is suitable for the warmer months. It features steep grey and orange walls, some of which are completely devoid of holds for a 3m section. There are some corners more akin to granite. Location: From the carpark walk right along the cliff top until a second,easier gully is reached (the first gully requires a batman style decent/ascent via fixed rope). At the bottom turn left and follow a vague track until you reach the first gully. The routes start here.

Approach:© (wogdog)

From the carpark walk right along the cliff top until a second,easier gully is reached (the first gully requires a batman style decent/ascent via fixed rope). At the bottom turn left and follow a vague track until you reach the first gully. The routes start here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Wogdog A

The left hand of two lines in the gully.

Sport Project 13m, 7
2 * Bleat or Retreat

Steep and technical climbing up a series of flakes. The right hand of two lines in the first(hard) descent gully

FA: Glenn Jones, 2011

21Sport 9m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Face the Music

Only half the route is done to a set of anchors before the real dificulties start. The rest of the route is an open project. Start at the bottom of a left leading ramp/crack. Up the ramp to the anchors. Something to loosen up on.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

13Sport 12m, 6
4 Project Wogdog B

The wall and arete above the cave right of Face the Music. Start as for FTM.

Sport Project 18m, 9
5 ** Imaginary Friends

Start 4m right of FTM at the obvious corner crack. One of a number of quality crack routes in the region. Bridge and jamb your way to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

17Sport 18m, 9
6 Pumped Bumpkin (Project Glenn Jones)

The left hand line through a series of scoops and caves. Start about 20m right of IF under the savagly overhanging grey wall.

Sport Project 20m
7 Project Glenn Jones

Right hand line in the overhanging grey wall.

Sport Project
8 Project Wogdog C

Follows the outstanding arete at the right end of the slab. Start off the block at the right end of the black slab.

Sport Project 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 *** Route of All Evil(Project Wogdog D)

Start at the base of the stunning corner crack.

***Sport Project 15m, 11
10 *** Panache

The classic flake line capped by a large roof. Start off the block at the base of the slab 10m right of ROAE. Climb the slab to gain the flake. Flamboyant laybacking leads to the traverse under the roof.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2011

17Sport 20m, 10
11 *** Argy Bargy (Project Wogdog)

The rightward diagonal leading to a slabby open book corner on awesome rock up high. Start 10m right of Panache.

***Sport Project 20m

1.7.2. Northern Sector 0 routes in Sector

Description:

A more broken cliffline, with potential for easier lines as well as the hard ones. Tends to be more choss here but routes should clean up well. Cliff faces north making a good winter location. Location: At the easy descent gully keep going right.

Approach:© (wogdog)

At the easy descent gully keep going right.

1.7.3. Arcadia 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.473467, -34.990167

Description:

This is the area of cliffs further south of the Southern Sector.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dirt Merchant

Follow the crack system with a choice of the left or right at the first small ledge. Head up and trend right. At the large ledge you may find it easier to traverse left a couple of metres for going up and coming back onto the line.

FA: Chris Ash(L), Damian Howard(S), 12th Jul

17Trad 30m

1.8. Moonshine 47 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.421972, -35.034836

Description:

Comprising of Moonshine, above the car park and The Dark Side Below. Sections of great rock and lots of potential for routes on numerous small butresses. Most routes have a band of Choss so take care.

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

On your way to Tianjara falls.

Look for the 620 sign just past the intersection of Braidwood and Turpentine Roads. Turn off to the right about 1km after the 620 sign into a gated (open) road. Follow this to the obvious car park just b4 the road goes to to 4WD heaven.

Walk down the crazy 4WD track 300 mtrs for moonshine or look right for small cairn and follow this for 5 min for Darkside, et al.

Awesome "Nowra" style climbing! Terrific excursion, if you want to get away from the crowds..

View Larger Map

620 ==> 1

1.8.1. Lunar Wall 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Steep wall climbing on pockets and breaks, more like limestone than sandstone

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Space Cadet

Starts at the left end of the slab capped by a large roof. Trickier slab than it looks.

FA: Rick Phillips

18Sport 12m, 6
2 * Lunar-Tick

Starts up the flake on the slab 2m right of SC. Climb the slab under the roof then traverse out right to the lip and up to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips

19Sport 18m, 8
3 Asteroids Arete - PROJECT

Up the tricky arete.

Start: About 3m right of corner at 'Arete'

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport
4 * Asteroids in Uranus

Start up Cosmic Thing and at second bolt trend left to join Lunar-Tick at the roof.

FA: Rick Phillips

22Sport 18m, 8
5 * My Favourite Martian

Start up Cosmic Thing and at 5th bolt finish up Asteroids in Uranus.

FA: Rick Phillips

19Sport 18m, 9
6 *** Cosmic Thing

Start up corner loaded with pockets and laybacks and follow it to the top. A little pumpier than you expect.

FA: Rick Phillips

19Sport 18m, 9
7 ** Beam Me Up Scotty

Same start as Cosmic Thing, at the 3rd bolt, launch right straight into the crux going around bulge, take a grade off if you keep going up Cosmic Thing and traverse around the crux (give it a go as its well protected).

FA: Rick Phillips

22Sport 18m, 10
8 ** Beam Me Up Scotty (Direct Start)

Start 2m to the right of Cosmic Thing. If you dont like crimps keep going up Cosmic Thing to start the climb. This will turn the climb into a hard 23 instead of the easier 23 it is today. Joins the climb just under the existing crux...so now your pumped for the throw!!

FA: Rick Phillips

23Sport 18m, 10
9 ** Hill Project

Great climbing I think cos i haven't done it yet.

Start: Same place as BMUSD until i sought out the rught hand start.

Sport 23m
10 *** My Bolts My Climb

Borderline 25 if you don't camp in the slot for days on end. The second half is nearly as hard as the first so keep the pump happening.

Start: Two meters right of BMUSDS.

FA: Sir Graham Hill

24Sport 18m
11 *** Wot u Got Gets Me Hot

Start at the only breach of the roof 5m left of Supernova. Fun and pumpy climbing with a punchy start. Climb the roof then follow the direct line to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

23Sport 20m, 12
12 ** Supernova

stick clip first bolt, then climbs pockets to roof, thug your way up that to crux around bulge..

FA: Rick Phillips

24Sport 23m, 10
13 You Snooze You Lose (Project Rick)

Not bolted yet. Starts just right of dirty crack and climbs face to the top of the cliff.

Unknown 17m
14 * Hill Stole My Route

Short but sweet. 'Steep' start lunging for bomber pocket, then straight up on smaller polished pockets.

23Sport 9m, 4
15 * iClimb

First bolt of 'Hill Stole My Route', then right and up bigger but steeper pockets. Single giant U lower-off.

24Sport 9m, 4

1.8.2. Dark Side 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.421688, -35.031484

Description:

A place for everyone as it has a bit of everything. Similar rock and aspect as the "grotto". Location: From the carpark look north and locate a small cairn. Follow the faint track fifty mtrs ahead and at the next cairn drop down a very easy gully, past a fallen big dead tree to first small cliff (Fat Wog Wall). It's less than five minutes to the first climb from the car! Climbs listed right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chk Chk Boom

EZ warm up route on the way in

Start: First climb you come to after turning right once down the easy gully

FA: The Major

20Sport 8m
2 Fully Sick Mate

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

18Unknown 8m
3 * Fat Wog

The bouldery right line to shared lower off. Cool feature...

Start: On the walk in.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

21Sport 8m
4 Skinny Wog

Up bulging wall on good holds, to shared lower off with FB.

Start: Left of 'Fat Wog'

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

19Sport 8m
5 * Under the Milky Wy

Bit of a tough start until it gets chalk over the obvious holds, starting off the ground makes it a true 19.. may pay to clip first bolt off the block then step down to ground

FA: Rick Phillips

18Sport 15m
6 Southern Cross

Stick clip first bolt, its way up there as you would not be able to clip anything until you get to it..hard moves off the ground maybe 22 if you hate crimps then over bulge to get established on headwall, great laybacking all the way to the top..ps you dont need to pull on any of the conglomerate rocks at the very top!

FA: Rick Phillips

21Sport 15m
7 * YAKing Lines

Up corner then thin headwall.

Start: 2m left of GS in corner.

FA: Adrian Child, 2009

21Sport 18m
8 * Gravity Sucks

Hard off the deck, with another crux at three quarter height

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 15m
9 * Need Another Seven Astronauts

start at right hand end of overhung cliff, work your way up to the small bulging roof and take your pick of the two options, if it seems hard take the other option

FA: rick phillips

20Sport 20m
10 * Quantam Physics

First few bolts of 'Nasa' then at roof hard moves to the left gets you on the headwall

Start: same start as 'Nasa' but at roof, follow bolts to the left and up to anchors

FA: Oliver Kerr

23Sport 20m
11 * Who is Mike Collins?

short bouldery climb that may get extended thru the roof if it look like it will go

Start: short climb that ends at the anchors under the roof

FA: Rick Phillips

19Sport 9m
12 ** Dark Star - Bundy Project / Dark Star - Bundy's Roof Flake Project

Up WiMC, then follow the roof flake thru the ceiling to jug at lip. Up small headwall to anchors.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

Sport 16m
13 *** One small step for a YAK

Hard start then tough moves around roof followed by easing head wall.

Start: 3 mtrs left of "NASA"

FA: rick phillips

23Sport 20m
14 *** YAKsative

Battle up the undercling flake, bust thru the crimpy rooves, and up the head wall. Classic !

FA: Bundy, 2009

24Sport 20m
15 ** Rock Star

Hard start on great rock to break under the buldge. Muscle up, and finish up BB.

Start: Directly under the arete.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

25Sport 20m
16 *** Big Bang Theory

Starts off block at left hand end of wall, follow right trending bolts to arete, hoick yourself over bulge and finish up headwall.

FA: rick phillips

24Sport 20m
17 Greenstick

Up the slab and into the roof 3 Metre left of BBT.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

12Sport 10m, 4
18 The Rocky Horror Show

Up crack just right of nice grey slab trend left to Hitchikers anchors. Trad. 2 metres right of Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2011

15Trad 18m
19 Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy

Chimney start then step right across explodo conglomerate to easy wall finish.

Start: Starts 50 mtrs left of 'Big Bang Theory' at next major buttress.

FA: Daryl the dude Jones

16Sport 20m
20 Musical Distractions Direct

A more sustained version and a good warm-up. Jug over undercut start for two bolts to join into the original.

Start: 10m left of Hitchikers'

17Sport 9m, 4
21 Musical Distractions / Distractions Direct

2m left of the direct. Juggy start heading right to thin reachy finish. This was Jacqui's first new route and first lead in two years!

15Sport 9m, 4
22 ** Burning Palms

Delicate start up flake/pockets/crimps. Slab move to break. Over bulge & left to ramble up headwall. Five foot flyer to finish !

FA: Adrian Child, 2010

24Sport 18m
23 * Palmasutra

A tough little number. Reachy pockets to big break. Crimp through crux bulge to awesome pocketed headwall.

FA: N Monteith

24Sport 18m, 6
24 * Keyboard Cat

Up flake for five metres then right to break, punch through bulge on crimps then super pockets to top.

Start: The right route starting at big left facing flake.

23Sport 16m, 6
25 ** Psalm Pilot

A fine little pumper. Start up 'Keyboard Cat' flake but follow it all the way left and over bulge to juggy finish. You can avoid the flake start by climbing direct up the easy stuff - knock off a grade and the stars.

21Sport 16m, 6
26 * Fronds of the Earth

2m left of 'Psalm Pilot'. Face climbing start with a great spicy finish on mega pockets.

19Sport 16m, 5
27 * Wormhole

The steep crack/seam behind the palm tree.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

21Sport 12m, 7
28 * Hyperspace

Juggy wall right of crack. Have a rest by the last bolt and launch into hyperspace to shared anchors with crack.

FA: Vanessa Wills

21Sport 16m, 6
29 May the Schartz be with you

Jam up the crack to lower-off anchor.

FA: R . Weller and Vanessa Wills

17Trad 16m
30 ** Millenum Falcon

The wall left of the crack, finishing at the top of the block. Trad like finish. Both hands on rail below anchor for full value

22Sport 16m, 6
31 * Crab Nebula

Start on blocks, clip first bolt and step out into finger crack. Up steeping wall past break

21Sport 16m, 5
32 * N1-H1

Bouldery climbing, lovin the power of the undercling.

Start: 3 mtrs left of CC

FA: Ricky "The Mayor" Phillips, 2009

18Sport 8m

1.9. Sunshine Sunny Side 21 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.413315, -35.040291

Description:© (nmonteith)

A long walk-in protects this impressive cliffline featuring one of the most unique sandstone walls in Australia - a cliff covered in two and three finger pockets in smooth white rock. Just like limestone! Because it bakes in the sun most of the day it's a winter only venue.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

A lengthy 30 minute walk protects this area from mass development. Directions - drive 2.4km south-west on Turpentine Road (towards Nerriga) from intersection of Braidwood Rd and Turpentine Road. Turn right onto dirt road (quite a sharp ditch to navigate if in a 2WD). Follow this for 550m until you hit power-lines, turn left and follow rough 2WD powerlines road (ignore left turn 100m into this road) for 300m until road ends at first power-line tower (GPS -35.0463, 150.4226). On right side of carpark spot the coloured tape markers. Follow this well marked track cut through thick bush, left down into gully skirting rock wall on the right (5 minutes) , through thick bush, down into creek bed (10 minutes), up the other side, now follow as close as possible the top of the big cliff for ages, past small creek (20 minutes), and eventually the bush gets lighter and lighter. Finally you will reach the amazing lookout point where the cliff takes a sharp left turn (30 minutes). Walk left along the top of the cliff for another 100m (marked with pink tape as well). At the top of the secret descent gully is a big rock cairn consisting of three large flat rocks and lots of tape wrapped around a tree. Squeeze down hole into gully and turn left to find 'Faux Buoux' Wall about 100m along the base. On the return trip it's best to leave an hour before sunset to navigate the thick bush - or carry a GPS and torch. Getting lost out here would be a nightmare. Telstra seems to be the only mobile carrier that works.

1.9.1. Sector 1 - Descent Gully Area 1 route in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Mostly chossy extremes and minimal potential for routes. There is one good easy route bolted so far and probably not much more to come.

Approach:

At the bottom of the descent gully turn right (facing out) and spot the large right facing corner with a black slab on the right side. The corner is ringbolted.

Descent Notes:

Descend by lower-offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bunny Corner

Easy peasy. Right facing corner with a black slab on the right.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2012

14Sport 17m, 5

1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux 15 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

A wall that features very unique (for sandstone) water polished pockets in immaculate rock. All routes here are fantastic quality, and many are rope stretching in length (bring a 60m rope). The sun hits the wall from around 10am so summer is out. Gale force winds howl in winter so bring something warm for belaying. GPS (-35.0403, 150.4129)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Blinded by the White

Stay left. Maximizes the quality rock on this wall with a big girdle across the quality pocketed white rock. Follows the left line of bolts under the roof for a couple of metres, then over powerful rooflet and keep traversing left to final magic pockets to break and lower-off. Back clean or get someone to 2nd it.

FA: Neil monteith

25Sport 25m, 12
2 The Ape Factor - PROJECT

Blinded by the White direct finish with a really long span from good pocket to sidecling. Not yet bolted but worked on top-rope. Will be in the high 20s.

Sport 18m
3 *** Faux Buoux

The best route here - a New 'Nowra' classic. Pockets of every variety from start to finish. Goes all the way to the top of the cliff. This is the middle line, which has a slight leftwards traverse once over the first rooflet.

FA: Neil Monteith

25Sport 30m, 14
4 *** When the Wind Blows

Amazing limestone like pockets makes for some very cool climbing. Start left of hanging garden. Juggy steep start rightwards to sequency magic pockets. After these crank bulge then final pumpy headwall on large pockets and crimps. Amazing all the way.

FA: Neil Monteith

24Sport 30m, 12
5 *** Swiss Cheese

Easiest way up the mega pocketed wall - but still no cakewalk. Starts as for When the Wind Blows for two bolts then right past three bolts to join into Pocket Rocket for one bolt then finish out left through orange scoops and reachy finish bulge. Magnificent white undercling pockets as usual.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

24Sport 20m, 9
6 *** Pocket Rocket

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

FA: Neil Monteith

25Sport 20m, 9
7 OPEN PROJECT

Not yet bolted, but looks about 28ish.

Sport 20m
8 ** Steal Some Steel

Hard campus start mounting undercut, then thin moves to bigger pockets. Head right up tasty orange slots to arete. For the full tick climb past the anchors using sneaky knee-bar to higher hold on arete (anchor should have been here). Backjump to anchor.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Pocket Rocket'

FA: Neil Monteith

24Sport 15m, 6
9 Mini Water Holes

Good warm-up climbing the first half of Water Holes and lowering off big U bolt just over the rooflet.

16Sport 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Water Holes

Immaculate rock and a slick slopey crux. Stem up tree for a metre to gain rock then take left line of bolts up very nice pocketed grey wall to blankness and big bolt. Sneak left to find hidden pocket, fiffle with some sketchy feet then back right to big sloper pocket. Long move then finish up orange bulge. If you lower-off the big bolt at the half-way point its a classic grade 16.

FA: Neil Monteith

23Sport 23m, 9
11 * Delicious

Great face climbing on crimps and pockets. Middle line of bolts on this wall, starting as for Lost for Profit. Lower off single large u-bolt when the rock turns blank.

FA: Neil Monteith

22Sport 15m, 6
12 * Lost for Profit

Black pockets to gain slab - then right line of bolts to hit left end of roof crack. Jam up corner crack and finish with powerful sloper mantle finale on gorgeous orange rock.

Start: Starts 10m right of 'Pocket Rocket' right of the big tree.

FA: Neil Monteith

19Sport 18m, 8
13 * Sun Dew

Small dark corner 2m right of Lost for Profit. At the big roof crack undercling desperately left to join into LfP for top half. Crack seeps after rain.

FA: Neil Monteith

20Sport 20m, 9
14 * SunnySide Up

5m right of 'Sun Dew' and right of major corner. Boulder over the undercut, up the jugs then traverse right across steep face to punchy finish. 'Fantastic' rock.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

22Sport 13m, 5
15 * Heal and Toe

Short and very steep rightwards leading line just right of SunnySide Up and finishing in little cave. Power. Stickclip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

23Sport 10m, 5

1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Immediately right of the Faux Buoux area is a massive cave with a low ceiling. Walk under this on a sandy shelf to the far right end where some actual climbable rock appears under the roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Kicking Heads

Fun slab, roof and corner with nails hard undercut start. Deduct 5 grades if you pull on the first bolt. Start by teetering up giant cairn to grasp massive jug on lip of cave. Curse and thrash at lip then up pleasant polished slab to massive roof. Skirt left and around it past halfway anchor bolts (use these to clean the route). Up black jam crack corner to high anchors, Stick clipping the second bolt is recommend unless you want to give your belayer a kick in the head.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

23Sport 20m, 9
2 ** Forgot Me Knot

Awesome powerful climbing. Undercut start to steep hanging pocketed arete to arrive under roof. Swing right with difficulty to jug and rap chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25Sport 14m, 5
3 *** Forgot Me Knot Extension

Thin technical climbing adding three more bolts to the original past the rap chain on the lip of the roof. Rad.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

26Sport 20m, 9

1.9.4. Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:© (nmonteith)

Only one route and one project at present - both sharing the same start. Will see a lot more development in 2013 winter season! It's 100m right of 'Faux Buoux' wall, past the big cave and just after after very narrow ledge. Gorgeous 'Grampians' quality rock in the upper half. Shame that two chipped pockets were needed to make these routes possible.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Masterstroke

Starts on far right side of wall. Jam across horizontal then diagonally leftwards (some chossy sections of rock) to finish up sweet shallow heucos. Top half is gorgeous rock quality.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

25Sport 20m, 10
2 ** Come Out Fighting

Start as for Masterstroke and at 5th bolt go straight up past chipped pocket to gorgeous finish on polished scoops. The top half is mega classic.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2012

26Sport 18m, 9

1.10. Tianjara Falls 198 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.335041, -35.103770

Description:

Hard to believe that TJF was popular before Nowra or Mt Keira was even discovered. The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality is 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone, very similar to Thompsons Point.

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities!

Location: Tianjara Falls - just a bit past Nowra. Turn off Princess Highway as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for Tianjara Falls, its about 1km on your right after the road turns into dirt. Park in the massive obvious carpark. Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...

The The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from Nowra to Tianjara Falls for the benefit of the sports climbing community!,

Approach:© (dod)

Tianjara Falls - just a bit past 'Nowra'. Turn off Princess 'Highway' as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for 'Tianjara Falls', its about 1km on your right after the road turns into dirt. Park in the massive obvious carpark. Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...

The The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from 'Nowra' to 'Tianjara Falls' for the benefit of the sports climbing community!, and is now a nifty 9 minutes from 'Nowra' @ 180kph in your turbo charged Subaru. There has been a noticeable police presence on this route since 2011.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Big News Day

A little steep and a little pumpy. Stick clip first bolt, over bulge and up flake then punchy crux leaving the horizontal break. Traverse right from bolt 5 then back left and up to anchors.

22Sport 14m, 6

1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.332215, -35.108163

Description:

Steeper and more featured than most of Tianjara. Quite long routes which start steep and juggy and finish on slabby crimps. Location: This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully

Approach:© (nmonteith)

This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Project - Bundy (G6)

The only climb on the first orange wall. Bouldery and Fun ! * Still a project *

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

**Sport Project 10m, 5
2 History never repeats

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

FA: Bill James, 1950

7Trad 25m
3 * Slab of Death

Up the techo slab just left of JTP

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

19Sport 16m
4 Just Think Pork

Up then right into vertical crack, clipping 1000's of ring bolts to lower offs at 2/3 height. If your a keen trad dad continue up the easy crack to the top to new carrot and tree anchor.

FA: G Hill, 2000

15Sport 16m, 9
5 * Grouple Girl

Start left of GG and up.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

18Sport 18m
6 ** Grouple Guy

Starts on the scoops to the left of the arete then up on great rock. Rebolted 2010

Start: In the sccops left of the arete/face

FA: G Hill, 2000

15Sport 15m
7 * Grouple RHV

Up TD for 2 bolts then climb around grey pillar and up GG to anchors. Still Needs extra bolt.. Aviods the crappy start on GG.

18Sport 20m
8 *** Thriller Direct

Rod's original line. Directly up left side of wall, thru overlap and easily to top. Would be handy with an extra bolt b/w the 4th and 5th.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

22Sport 18m
9 ** Thriller

All killer - no filler. A fun arete. Climb first two bolts of 'Driller', then monkey left across steep pockets to nice arete. Up this through bulge and finish up crimpy face.

22Sport 20m, 7
10 ** Driller

Steep orange face that's dry in any weather, and overhangs about 3m. Steeply through start to big white pocket, then screw your finger into the dubious mono. Come back in two months after finger has healed and pull the move again with success. Finish through roof. Superb rock quality.

Start: Starts 3m left of Rod's Roof.

24Sport 16m, 6
11 Rod's Roof

Up crazy scoop on the suss jugs, with the rock getting better as you go. Then battle through the roof and doodle up slab to anchors.

Start: Start on right side of raised rock platform.

FA: Rod Young

21Unknown 25m
12 Corona with Lemon

A truly tried and tested favorite guaranteed to appease the taste buds. Starts on the far right side of the upper ledge. A little steep on horizontals.

18Sport 30m
13 * Peroni with Pizza

An excellent mid week option!. will prove to be popular. Another long euro-enduro adventure at the grade. Most of these climbs are similar, but this is probably the best one.

FA: Rod Young

18Sport 30m
14 ** Usurper

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

FA: Bill James

13Trad 40m
15 * Sol with Summer

A great addition to the market. fully imported. Sweet on sundays after a recovery brunch.

17Sport 30m
16 * Carlsberg's at the Cricket

Does it get any better than that?..

recline the chair, sit back and enjoy the contest!

19Sport 30m
17 * Wombat Combat

A variant start to the route left which fully utilises the orange rock. Look out as a 60 meter rope won't get you off this baby in one hit you will have to break the descent and rap again on FM anchors which are 23 meters off the ground.

Start: As for Fricasse Maison.

FA: G Hill, 2009

20Unknown 35m
18 * Fricasse Maison

A little tricky lower down but you will get used to the potential fall unless you take it.

Start: At Wombat Combat under orange wall and three meters left of corner crack Triantithingy.

FA: V Hill, 2009

21Unknown 23m, 10
19 Triantiwantigongalope

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

FA: G Hill, 1977

13Trad 35m
20 Crispin Licks

Some holds are a little dirty but don't let that put you off. Generally its a pile of rubbish and i can't think of why i wasted seven bolts on it, only to say i liked the name string it would form with the climbs around it which are also rubbish.

Start: Left side of orange cave like structure. Two meters right of crack in corner.

FA: Hill

20Sport 12m, 7
21 ** Chicken Lips

Sustained little pumper with some choice little perfect pockets.

Start: Route that goes up the centre of the orangy cave like structure, between two traddy corners. Scramble up loose stuff onto start ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2008

21Sport 18m, 7
22 Pinch Grip

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

FA: R Chunder G Hill, 1978

10Trad 35m
23 Slippin Chicks

All large items have been disposed of any further holds you rip off are your own fault.

Start: Ledge just right of chicken lips.

FA: G Hill, 2009

19Sport 12m, 6
24 ** Statue of liberty

very nice two pitch climb a slab grade 12 at the bottom with a stunning 14 metres of grade 24 at the top

FA: rick phillips

24Sport 30m
25 Shittin Bricks 13Unknown 35m
26 *** Mythical Tomatoes

One of the orginal classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it.

FA: G Hill R Chunder, 1978

15Trad 45m
27 Shanadoa

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

FA: G Hill, Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

12Trad 50m
28 * Ketchup

A fine slab angle wall. Sustained climbing at about grade 19 from mid way up. Use the crack at the first blank bit or just grit your teeth and climb thru it for a better experience, not much harder this way. Graded only for the sustained nature. A confident leader will find it 19 all the way up.

As for Mythical Tomatoes at blocky corner leading to the left side of the ledge at quarter height. Up corner to ledge. Up wall using cracks as necessary to rings at the top.

FA: G. Hill, 2010

21Sport 35m, 12
29 * Cab Rank

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

FA: Bill James, 1974

12Trad 50m
30 * Maximum Multiplicity

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

FA: G Hill & Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

11Trad 50m
31 * Minimals

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

FA: G Hill & R Chunder, 1978

14Trad 65m

1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods 31 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.333228, -35.107092

Description:

An impressive steep wall with heaps of quality jugs and excellent endurance climbing for the mindless thug. There are also some nice beginner leads as well. Location: Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from Bill James Testimonial Gully. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.

Approach:© (dod)

Access is down the second descent gully you come to from the lookout, about 100m further on from 'Bill James Testimonial Gully'. If you are walking down an easy gully you have the right one, the crag is on the left at the bottom of the gully (walk south back towards the lookout). Routes described left to right facing the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roger Bourne Identity

Up the dark crimpy slab.

Start: First climb u come to, down the walk down gully.

FA: Dirty "roger" Dude, 2009

16Sport 16m, 6
2 Bingo Wings

Step off block and follow steepening slab.

FA: rick phillips

14Sport 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Trad Dads Can't Campus

Start on the lower level 3m right of BW. Heave from pocket onto ledge then take the left line of bolts up the steep wall, onto the slab and on to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

20Sport 20m, 8
4 * Gym Junkies Cant Jam

Same start as Trad Dads Cant Campus, followed with lay back crux to gain the tops and on to easy ground to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

20Sport 20m, 10
5 * Don't Give Up Maman

Harder for short people. Thin start on small edges and pebbles.

Start: Just right of Trad Dads,Gym Junkies start.

FA: V. Hill, 2009

23Sport 20m, 9
6 Don't Give Up Maman - Direct Start

FA: V.Hill, 2009

23Unknown 20m
7 ** Upchuck

Jug hauling interupted by the burly break move.

Start: Between Trad Dads start and 'Dodecahedron' from the boulder.

FA: Jan 2009

24Sport 20m
8 *** Dodecahedron

The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper!

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 20m
9 ** Dave Fern

A great jug haul. Originally climbed on trad gear and the carrots now full of rings.

Start: At the initials DFA. Shares first three bolts with 'Dodecahedron'.

FA: Hill and Hill

22Sport 25m
10 Diamond Head

A right diagonal used to block those new routers that may sneak another line in. Large jugs are what every guy dreams of and this route has lots.

Start: Same Start as Dave Fern

FA: Hill

22Sport 25m, 10
11 ** Gratefully Dead

Done in the days of the carrot bolt and mixed gear. When you knew how to place a good runner and dyno into a finger lock. Now of course its full of rings, and if you thought the run out was pants wetting then I placed a couple more bolts just for you.

Start: Under the obvious overlap to the right of DH.

FA: Hill

24Sport 25m
12 * Heat Blast

Originally done on the old bolts alone, with a few rope stretching falls. Rings added later by Hill who dismally failed at trying to repeat the route. Name courtesy of Ben Ten.

Start: Under orange wall that leads up into the cave with two rings for lower off.

FA: S. Bullen

25Sport 15m
13 ** Custard Canon

A great climb with the crux down low.

Start: Right of orange stripe that leads to cave.

FA: G Hill, 2000

23Sport 20m
14 Snacky Cakes

Start a few meters right of Custard Cannon. Up the black blunt arete and continue up the slab to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2009

21Sport 20m, 10
15 Yesterdays Hero's

The classic route from the 70s. Put up by the pioneers of the area. Just because they don't have a line of stainless drilled up em doesn't mean they're not climbs!

Start: Obvious big black slab around the corner right of 'Snacky Cakes'

FA: Bill James and Co.

10Unknown 22m
16 Traddington Bear

Ascend the face between LMS and the brushy gully. Start at LMS and move slightly right, then straight up. Stay left of the alcove near the LMS anchors. Top out and belay on slung blocks or other gear.

Apologies to G Hill for the name, I don't know what it should be called.

Start: 1 meter left of Little Miss Sunshine

11Trad 25m
17 Little Miss Sunshine

Start 5m right of the major corner/chimney feature and the obvious black slab. Climb the slab through a couple of overlaps to the anchors. A safe beginners lead.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

11Sport 14m, 8
18 * Hill Does Crack

Start at the obviou diagonal crack on the right end of the LMS slab. There is a very faint '18' painted/chipped into the rock at the start. Climb up 7 meters follow the seam as it diagonals left. Top out, belay on large cams under blocks.

FA: G Hill, 2000

15Trad 20m
19 Cool Bananas

Start8 mtrs right of HDC, off the big block which you get to from around the back. Hard moves off the ground for the grade, easing off at top.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

17Sport 14m, 7
20 * Ive Got Wood

The rock in the first 5 meters is so good i had to stick another route up it. More sustained than it looks.

Start as for 'Groovy Tuesday' then traverse left to the next line of bolts to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2009

22Sport 15m, 8
21 ** Groovy Tuesday

Climbed originally on the carrots and trad gear. Now Full of great rings.

Start: Orange wall at bulgy cracked overlap. Look for the old carrot bolts.

  1. 18m (22) technical start leads to a pumpy middle section

  2. 8m (12) From the ledge you can top out if you like...

FA: rick phillips; Hill/Ricky

22Sport 18m
22 ** Captain Australia and the Lemon Argonauts

Thru the flakes, up nice headwall.

Start: Under obvious flakes

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

18Sport 15m
23 *** Mouche Pique

Just inside the slot three metres left of Shut The Gate at the corner. Up through the conglomerate band and the small overhang above it to the slab and the next small overhang Follow the line of bolts up the slab to the lower off.

FFA: V.Hill, 2011

FA: V.Hill, 2011

18Sport 20m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 * Rita's Revenge

Great junk of orange rock to start and an easy slab finish. A direct start to Rita. Possibly a little gay at 24 but at least as hard as STG.

Start: Two meters right of 'Mouche Pique' at the orange undercut under diagonal thin crack.

FA: G Hill, 2011

24Sport 20m, 9
25 * Les Vacances De St Rita

Takes advantage of all the orange rock it can. Others would swear at another contrived piece of shit from Hill but who cares. Boulderers do it all the time.

Start: Same start as shut the gate.

FA: V Hill, 2000

22Sport 22m, 9
26 ** Shut The Gate

easy lower moves, stop suddenly to a crimpy layback pump fest

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

24Sport 12m, 6
27 ** The Horse Has Bolted

You can top out from this climb, belay at rap anchor and walk around ledge (with care). Originally a trad gear lead with a start from the right and a grade of 16. Add the bolts and it gets harder? Starts a few meters left of the obvious corner crack, about 20 right of Groovy Tuesday. Climb past the conglomerate band and flake to the corner, surmount this then climb the slab above to the belay/ lower off.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

19Sport 25m, 11
28 ** Je Veux vous Entendre Siffler!

The direct line up the wall then up the leaning corner. Keep going to the rap chains at the very top.

Start: On the grey wall two meters right of THHB direct start.

FA: V Hill, 2011

18Sport 22m, 9
29 Whistling For Dinner

A nice little wall that deserved a taste of steel. The orange rock in the cave is great and the moves up the right side of the arete just fine. Ignore the two bolts on the left side of the arête they're just a waste of stainless.

Start: Same two bolt wall start as JVVES to the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2011

21Sport 22m, 9
30 * Hill Project zz9zpluralzalpha

The pick of the bunch. Goes up the sanest chunk of orange rock, in the most direct manner. Once around the roof the slab is easy.

Start: On the easy orange wall two meters right of the other route and just left of the cave.

FA: G Hill, 2011

23Sport 21m, 9
31 Time For Turnips

A really great way to use the rock as a resource to its best. It shares the same start and the same lower offs but all the rest of the route is completely different enough to want to climb it.

Start: Same start as the previous route just left of the cave.

FA: G Hill, 2011

22Sport 22m, 9

1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.333884, -35.106048

Description:© (dod)

A superbly grid bolted wall by the master himself, aka Graeme Hill. Typical 'Nowra' vertical climbing on great looking orange rock, with most routes about 20m.

Approach:© (dod)

Go down the gully as per Husky Homo & Hill Top Hoods about one third down skirt around right and you will see the climbs.

* note climbs described right to left *

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roger the Emu

The 1st climb you come to. Up past bolts to giant U lower off.

FA: mark woodard, 2000

18Sport 15m
2 Cracks in the Coalition of the Willing

start under the leaning crack, all geared up!! all those bottom placements you think you can see are dirty and flaring, so you climb up a bit freak out and down climb a little then do some gardening.. you get decent gear at about 4 mtrs, more nut placements than cams finish up storking pork anchors

Start: ummm. at the bottom of the crack i guess!

FA: Rick Phillips & Graeme Hill, 2000

17Trad 20m
3 * Storking Pork

The next climb along. A few reachy moves and will test shortish people. Crosses the crack at about 2/3s height and up on jugs to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21Sport 15m
4 Kurds in the Whey

A beautiful piece of work inspired by nature and the Indian Stainless Steel plant used to make my bolts raw materials. This sought of climb keeps the wall average grade somewhere around the solid 20. So quit complaining if a few climbs are underdone the ones to the side are probably over done.

Start: Shared start with BB, then moves right.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 18m
5 * Bunker Bolster

Another line of inspiring stainless steel that sets this wall apart from all the others i have grid bolted.

Start: Shared start with KitW, then move left.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 18m
6 * What Weapons

These two routes make up some of the best climbing on this wall. A little bit techo and sometimes fancy.

Start: This climb shares the same start as the next to the left at the initial BB.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 18m
7 * The Butchers Brother

Great climbing. Don't whine too much if the odd bit of rock snaps off your probably doing the only ascent for that year.

Start: At the initial BB in the middle of the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 18m
8 * Climb Of Mass Destruction

A great piece of climbing,well I liked it!

Start: This is the third route in from the corner. Without the big U bolt lower off.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 18m
9 ** The Butcher of Berkeley

Committing climbing up the wall past little overlaps. There is a loose block at the start.

Start: Just right of corner.

FA: Mark woodard, 2000

19Sport 18m
10 Roger the Pelican

Start in corner and climb up just right of corner. Turn the roof on its right then climb the left wall to single U anchor.

FA: Mark Woodard, 2000

19Sport 18m, 9
11 Roger the Nudibranch

Up wall and thru roof.

Start: Left of corner

FA: mark woodard, 2000

18Sport 20m
12 A Sadamn Saturday

The next one along, starting just left of RtN

FA: G hill, 2000

22Sport 20m
13 Slabbing with Sadamn

The slab of death, last climb in this sector...

FA: G Hill, 2000

20Sport 20m

1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.335486, -35.105038

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sheep Graziers Alert

Up the juggy wall

Start: Just right of big cave.

FA: Dave Bateman, 2008

15Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Married Mans Clip Up

Up left side of cave. Finger jugs, to jugs, to crimpy headwall. Sustained for 12 metres

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

23Sport 12m, 6
3 Sausage Machine

Shared start (marked) with PP, up and slightly to the right.

FA: S. Bullen

25Sport 12m
4 Pissing Protein

Shared start with SM, up to the left.

FA: G. Hill

23Sport 12m
5 * Roger the Iguana

Thin start on shallow pockets then easier wall to giant U. Sandbag.

Start: 4m left of PP

FA: Mark Woodard, 2000

19Sport 12m, 5
6 Roger the Woodchuck

Up wall to shared giant U lower off with previous climb. Sandbag.

Start: The left most climb on this wall

FA: Mark Woodard, 2003

18Sport 12m, 5

1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:© (bundybear)

Great long easy climbing with lots of bolts for the masses. The standard warm up area for "Rick's Cafe" et al...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Roger the Sea Lion

Arcing line just left of arete to solid looking U bolt. All routes from Fat Mark are graded 16.

Start: The first climb on the steeper part of the lower wall

FA: Mark Woodard, 2003

17Sport 15m
2 Roger the Boa Constrictor

Line of bolts that goes up to the same U bolt as the preceeding climb. All Fat marks routes come with the standard grade of 16 so take care until you feel solid on 20 before trying it.

Start: Two to three meters left of Roger The Sea Lion.

FA: Mark Woodard, 2003

18Sport 15m
3 * Diagonal Crack

Up R The D for first three bolts then trend left into the obvious left leading crack. Wires and cams to connect the bolts, finish at the D. rings at the end of the diagonal.

FA: Gavin Murray, 2009

17Trad 20m
4 Puit Damour

Start up DDD for a couple of moves, then move right and up to anchor.

FA: G Hill, 2009

19Sport 20m
5 * Debbie Duz Dishes

Up wall with some thin(ish) moves

Start: Marked

FA: G. Hill

21Sport 25m
6 * Pat Pat

very ceuse...for one reason alone....

FA: 2008

20Sport 23m
7 * Tassi Rabbi

Some cool moves direcly up wall to anchor in cave. The only route that does not goto the top off cliff

Start: In middle of wall

FA: G. Hill, 2000

20Sport 15m
8 * Maurice the Fart Freak

Long enjoyable jaunt up a great wall, gets a little bit pumpy towards the end. The mandatory warmup...

FA: G. Hill, 2000

19Sport 25m
9 * Roger the Hippo

Tricky start, up nice easy face to beautiful orange rock.

FA: Woodard, 2000

18Sport 22m
10 Roger the Rhino

The left most climb on this wall, finishes on shared lower off with preceding climb

FA: Woodard, 2000

17Sport 22m

1.10.6. Rick's Cafe 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (dod)

A slick white wall with a different climbing style to the other areas, mostly climbing on pockets and large flat edges. Some of the best rock at TJF.

Approach:© (dod)

In the middle of the Amazon jungle, roughly the middle of the entire TJF cliffline. Walk down past Chunder's Glen and keep following the cliff left past a bit of a scramble down and past some chossy walls to find this grid bolted crag. Routes are described from right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Lattes on the Lounge

A climb everyone will enjoy, get on it!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

22Sport 20m, 8
2 ** Emporium

hurly burly go the underclings!!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

24Sport 20m, 8
3 ** Double Decaf

Takes a diagonal line left, then through the overlaps. Hard one to onsight!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

21Sport 20m, 8
4 * Half Double Decaf

has a hardish start until you get it wired

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

21Sport 20m
5 ** Doppio

Tricky moves to start then power up thru 3 little rooves.

FA: Bundy, 2008

23Sport 15m, 5
6 Project - Hill

A fun little route that you do more for the moves and the great little holds than the mountain wilderness experience, hence the close bolts.

Start: As for Short Black on the really great orange rock.

Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Short black

The left most route on the crag.Tough crux, with some funky , committing moves, pick a day with good friction.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2008

23Sport 22m, 9

1.10.7. Bundy's Bar and Grill 2 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:© (ropedonkey)

Up high on a ledge over looking the cafe and corner store areas. Plenty more routes to go in here. Get your drill out !

Approach:© (ropedonkey)

Walk north from the cafe, across the log and on your way to the corner store...but before you go thru the squeeze boulder grab the fixed rope & get your arse up the greasy wall to the ledge "Bundy burger & barby sauce" is the climb starting far left on a rocky pedestal

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bundy Burger 21Unknown 20m
2 * Bundy burger & barby sauce

Start up slab, head left and deal with small holds out on the vague arete (crux?), up featured wall to small roof, out on great holds, pull round lip to finish on head wall (following the dirty crack straight up past the third bolt isnt worth climbing, shame on you!)

Start: At top of pedestal on belay bolt

FA: rick phillips, 2000

21Sport 20m

1.10.8. The Corner Store 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

A number of good quality, steep routes on limestone like rock.

Approach:

Continue to walk north along the cliffline about 50m further along from Rick's Cafe.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Greasy Chiko Roll

start under leaning arete, stick clip first bolt, fun start with mantle kinda squish move then steeply up to anchors

FA: rick phillips

22Sport 18m
2 ** Big YAK Value Meal

Start as for GCR, but where GCR goes right to anchors continue directly up the steep orange tube. Finally step onto headwall and up on jugs up the anchors.

FA: Bundy

24Sport 24m
3 * Froggie's OPEN Project 26Unknown 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 *** Boulet Frit Left Hand Start

One of the best climbs at TJF. Great rock up a slightly overhanging wall with lots of bolts and great holds.

Start: In the corner as for the next climb left.

FA: V Hill, 2009

23Sport 22m, 10
5 *** Boule et Frit

The best 24 in all 'Nowra'. Stella Bella

FA: Graham Hill

24Sport 20m
6 * Avec Moutarde

The conglomerate seam running thru the start may put you off, but you only use it for two holds. Hard bit is low down where you want all hard bits to be with the rest a jug haul. Soft for the grade!!!! Truely!

Start: Just right of BF a little to the left of the main line of bolts. Can be started direct if you need to add half a grade.

FA: G Hill, 2009

25Sport 22m, 10
7 * Yak My Nuggets

Nugget stretching bridging leads to the picnic ledge on top of the block. Get someone to chuck up a big yak meal deal before proceeding to the top.

Start: Same as B et F in the corner formed by the block and the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2009

21Sport 22m, 10
8 Hill - PROJECT

Some sweet rock climbing past some ring bolts

Start: Clip 1st bolt on GCR.

1Unknown
9 Hill Project

Puts the bight back into the line that mustad traversed away from.

Start: Same start as With Mustard

Unknown
10 Frog - PROJECT Unknown

1.10.9. Drop bear wall 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.335981, -35.102059

Description:

Big features and big lines on 30m+ walls. The routes here are few and far between but have an extra special feel due to length. Location: Walk down the rungs from the top of the cliff or Keep walking past The Corner Store for 100m along the cliff base.

Approach:© (dod)

Keep walking past 'The Corner' Store for 100m along the cliff base. Or if walking across the top locate the gully that leads to green rungs. At base of gully immediate on left (facing out) is drop bears do exist walk past this for fractured fairy tales etc, turning right takes you to Indian Head proper.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Heir Hill 17Unknown
2 *** The Artist known as Graham Hill

classic Hill climbing!

22Sport 15m
3 ** Drop Bears Do Exist

Tricky start, then jug along blissfully thru overhang and upto anchors.

Start: At the far end of DB wall.

FA: rick phillips, 2009

21Sport 20m, 9
4 ** Bear Droppings

Continuously leaning climbing up the entire length of the wall. Four meters of overhang in 20 meters adds the interest.

Start: Off block two meters to the right of Drop Bears.

FA: G Hill, 2011

23Sport 21m, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Project Glen Jones

The line of fixed hangers up the slab and straight up the middle of the wall.

Start: 4m left of Heebie Jeebie

Unknown 28m, 13
6 ** Heebie Jeebies

start up right end of drop bear wall, up ramp then up super steep arete, swing left under rotten cave, watch out for a little loose rock, tackle crux (big throw) do the tricky mantle etc.. there it is! how hard can it be?

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

21Sport 30m, 12
7 ** The Empire Strikes Yak

Shared start with HJ, up ramp past 4RBs to stance. Step right over the void and up corner on perfect white rock until you are forced back on to the face for the crimpy crux, followed by easier ground to anchors at top of cliff.

FA: Bundy

23Sport 30m, 12
8 * Please The Keys

If you like a climb that doesn't give up until near the end then this is for you. From the ledge the climbing gets progressively harder until in the middle of the wall you meet the crux. It still has some nuts to dish out until the mega hole in the top. Climbs the centre of the wall visible behind the guy pictured on Drop Bears. Quite a bit easier if you can stand on your feet, probably another grade if your footwork is crap like mine.

Start: Same start as the YAK thing on the slab.

FA: G Hill, 2011

23Sport 22m, 14
9 * Lauren (the) Chili Goddess

A good line of bolts kept reasonable by the right hand flake system. Once you get to the fourth bolt you've got it by the balls. If it starts to get desperate higher up just keep grabbing that right leading flake.

Start: Two meters to the left of the arete. And to the right of the pox hole.

FA: G Hill, 2010

23Sport 22m, 13
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Roo Rot

Look up what do you see? Look down, you're still on the ground. What's holding you there? Look up you see bolts leading up the best arete you have ever seen (at least at Nowra), its easy there are holds everywhere. Look down your feet are still holding you back.

Start: Just left of the arete of 'Fractured' Fairytales

FA: G Hill, 2010

23Sport 22m, 14
11 *** Fractured Fairytales

belay up on the block just right of first bolt, take care on the flake at third height but you don't need to pull on it, then power to the top...well that's my idea!!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

23Sport 30m, 11
12 ** Zut Il Pleut

A really good piece of rock after it leaves 'Fractured' Fairytale s. Shares the same start to a few moves past the undercling flake, then it just gets better. The crux is somewhere up the top.

Start: Same start as 'Fractured' Fairytales

FA: V Hill, 2010

23Sport 24m, 15
13 * Hairy Snotter And The Quims of Quidich

Another good wall slightly shorter so you wont get so pumped or will you?

Fourth bolt a little dumbly placed but it protects the hard stuff above. The climb is essentially five sections of grade 20 with a little slappy bit of 22 makes for a reasonably sustained route. Worth one more grade than Stairway.

Start: Third line of bolts to the left of the arch.

FA: G Hill, 2009

24Sport 18m, 8
14 * Artline 700

A continuous slightly overhanging wall. Similar climbing to Stairway To Heaven Well protected with shit loads of bolts.

Start: 2 m left of Stairway To Heaven

FA: G Hill, 2010

22Sport 17m, 10
15 Vero Hill PROJECT Unknown 20m
16 *** Stairway to Heaven

Stick clip or take care to first bolt, climb huge weathered flake until forced onto the face, enjoy the pump!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

23Sport 25m, 9
17 *** Sahara

Looked at by a number of people but deemed to hard, Alex climbed it using 4 cams but gave me permission to bolt it, climb it as a 23MO pulling on the draw at the crux or send it free!

FA: Alex Keiling

26Sport 25m
18 ** Seven Day Adventurist

bridge wall and large detached flake, swing onto wall and good move getting your high off under cling, crux at three quarter height of sharp crimps

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

22Sport 25m, 7
19 * Highway Heist

twenty mtrs south of sahara etc, locate belay bolt and climb up faint crack and pockets trending slightly right, best to clip bolt in roof with sling to avoid rope drag.. crux is letting go of the wall to grab the roof, is kinda desperate and more so if your short!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

22Sport 18m
20 * Redneck Robbers

Belay off same bolt, trend right and up to blind corner, nice moves as you head up and get back onto the main headwall, jugs to the anchors

Start: same as HH

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

16Sport 20m, 7
21 * Kombi Crime Scene

Traverse lower than previous climb and layback off the corner crack for a move or two (sorry trad dads your to late maybe you can sling one of the bolts) then blast thru roof and up to anchors

Start: same belay bolt (same bat channel)

The next two climbs start from same bolt and finish at same anchors, maybe best to top belay and rap back down left of anchors (facing cliff)

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

20Sport 23m, 7
22 * Gone, But Not Forgotten!

Traverse all the way to the slab, climb your way over the void out on the arete, shake and quiver (hopefully like the pricks that stole my stuff are) with the exposure and make your way to the anchors.

maybe best to top belay and rap down

Start: same

FA: Rick Phillips, 2009

14Sport 25m, 9
23 *** funk soul rubber

FA: rick phillips

22Unknown 30m
24 damn you custardo!

FA: rick phillips

15Unknown 25m
25 route awaiting here!

traverse across and get yourself established on a technical arete a few big moves and your at the anchors should be around grade 19-21

Start: The anchors are in all you have to do is add 4-5 bolts

Unknown
26 Hill 17

turn right down the runged highway opposite DBDE

17Sport

1.10.10. Indian Head (north) 53 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.336033, -35.101427

Description:

A massive area with unlimited potential and heaps of Arapiles rock.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Beat Up and Thrown Out

The obvious overhanging, leaning crack. P1 (20m, 23 M0) Climb the crack to belay at the break or lower off, double bolt belay. P2 (12m, 10) Traverse right to corner and follow to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Bob Macmillan, 2008

23Aid 30m
2 ** Barbed Wire Love

Route broken into three short pitches up right hand end of slabby orange wall. Take some medium wires and small to medium cams. 10m left of BUTO P1 (12m, 20, 3 bolts) Step onto wall at conglomerate band and up to large ledge. P2 (12m, 22, 3 bolts) Up technical slab to flake corner past a third bolt to exit up thin crack to ledge. P3 (6m, 17, 1 bolts) Up wall above ledge to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Bob Macmillan, 2009

22Mixed 35m, 7
3 *** Bad Boys Get Spanked

Flake and slab line on immaculate rock. This one has it all. Left of BWL and up a little gully, under a little roof at the base of an orange slab. Grapple with the roof, follow the flake to the finishing slab.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

24Sport 15m, 7
4 * Puddin Pie

The right route of two up an easy angled black wall.

Start: At the apex of the gully

FA: Bob Macmillan, Veronica Thake

5Mixed 12m, 1
5 * Dragon Fly

Line up next to the arete past 2 bolts. Makes a good exit route.

Start: At the apex of the gully

FA: Bob Macmillan, Veronica Thake

7Mixed 14m, 2
6 ** Her Royal Shortness

Step left off the block, up and skirt left around overhang and follow rings between caves to top.

Start: Off the block 10m left of the gully left of BWL.

FA: Bob Macmillan,Hannah Berger

19Sport 25m, 8
7 * The Player

Start just right of Millie My Friend. Follow fixed hangers through to short steep wall near the top.Could be a little harder if your short.

FA: Killien Blumstien-Jones, 2009

18Sport 20m, 7
8 * Millie My Friend

A few meters right of ROTF. Up obvious crack to top.

FA: George Foster, Bob Macmillan, 2008

6Trad 25m
9 Rise of the Feret

The crack corner under the impressive orange wall with 2 unknown routes on it. Right hand end of overhang/cave. Up crack to top.

FA: Feret,Macca,Weasel, 1970

5Trad 25m
10 ** Subterfuge

Fantastic outing in a stellar position. Same start as Heyday. Take the first crack leading to the roof, exit left and follow crack to top.

FA: john lattanzio & bob mcmillan

18Trad 50m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 * Hey Day

2 pitch corner crack on gear. Start at the left end of ledge that splits the cliff, Double bolt belay. 1. Traverse left to stacked blocks, up the corner and exit left to belay. 2. climb up and left to exit left of the leaning crack, bolt.

FA: john lattanzio & bob mcmillan

17Trad 48m
12 ** Bryden's Backflip

Start as for Heyday and climb to the stacked blocks, best to belay here. Climb the airy arete on gear (cams) and bolts to the top.

FA: Bob Macmillan, John Lattanzio

19Mixed 35m, 6
1.10.10.1. Hairy Snotter Wall 8 routes in Sector
Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

A compact little wall of hard grey rock sporting a number of short routes.

Approach:

After negotiating the access rungs scramble down to the right about 30m.

1.10.10.2. Tonage Zone Sector 17 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown
Description:

This sector has two parts, the steep orange wall of Arapiles style rock split by two cracks and an upper terrace to its left. Routes are described right to left.

Approach:

From Hairy Snotter Wall walk 30m to the left (facing cliff) where the orange wall will become obvious. Access to the upper terrace is via a chimney on the left.

1.10.10.3. Impressionist Wall 7 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

A black and orange streaked wall at the turning point of the cliff line. Routes are described from right to left.

Approach:

Walk further around and scramble onto a large ledge where the cliff changes direction. If you have approached from the top or can't find the descent gully, there is a rap point just left of the outer vantage point and accessed via a small gully on the left. Absiel down Damn You Custardo.

History:

A nubmer of the routes here stared off life as trad or mixed routes but most have since been rebolted.

1.10.10.4. Funk Soul Sector 9 routes in Sector
Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

A large black and orange streaked wall bounded on its right by a open scrubby corner and a smaller compact orange wall.

Approach:

Continue around the corner of the buttress, dropping down under Impressionist Wall, and past a large roof. 30m further on two little gullies give access to the terrace back to your right from where most of the climbs start.

Descent Notes:

A number of routes finish on the top of the cliff, descent is easiest via a rap station at the left end of Impressionist Wall (facing out), top of Damn You Custardo, in the little gully.

1.10.11. Black Snake Buttress 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.338388, -35.099868

Description:© (nmonteith)

The next area about 100m along from Indian Head, it's the vertical walls and square cut aretes after a series of slabs visible from above. The two aretes on this cliff are very different to any other routes at TJF.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Rap in access from chains above Mystery Mossy Slab (30m) or walk along from the base of Indian Head. Use a GPS to find -35.099838, 150.338438

Descent Notes:© (nmonteith)

All routes have lower-off anchors.

History:© (nmonteith)

There was a stray old carrot sticking of the slab - dating from the 80s or 90s perhaps? Recent history began in 2011 with Neil Monteith bolting several projects.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Mystery Mossy Slab

The escape route (and rap in route). Mossy black slab 5m right of Black Snake. Originally had lone carrot halfway up sticking out a long way. Now has 5 very spaced rings and a rap chain. Needs a good brush down low but is climbable. This is a zero star route. thecrag.com database star allocation is stuffed.

FA: G. Hill in the 80s?

12Sport 30m, 5
2 ** Black Snake

Major steep arête on right side of orange face. Quite unusual climbing style for 'Nowra', with lots of sideways holds and blocky edges. Start arête direct with bouldery moves past first bolt. Rest on stance then more trick moves up marbled rock to tricky crux bulge. Finish up crack.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Mystery Mossy Slab'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

24Sport 20m, 9
3 Worst Husband Ever (Neil's Project)

Excellent wall climbing straight up the face right of the major corner. Slabby start, tough move through small bulge in the middle then punch out the short roof to top of cliff jugs. Closed project - stay off. Grade 25ish?

Set by Neil Monteith, 1st Aug

Sport Project 18m
4 * Gale Force Nine

Bolted in the windiest day ever. Start on slab 4m right of big mossy corner. Left trending line past flakes and big pocket to join into major corner crack. Layback and stem up this surprisingly clean corner to anchors under big roof. Crack seeps after heavy rain.

FA: Neil Monteith, 3rd Aug

21Sport 16m, 7
5 The Regular Route (Neil's Project)

Slightly overhung face just left of major corner crack. Sustained edges and pockets. 25? There is a direct finish, and an easier right version bolted.

Sport 17m, 9
6 The Regular Route Direct (project)

Finish direct up sandy shallow crimps. Will add a grade to the route.

Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 ** Triennial

Action packed steep arête 8m left of The Regular Route. Start off ledge (bolt belay) trending left on conglomerate band to instant exposed arete perched above void. Up technical arete on small shallow pockets and reachy jugs. Pumpy right until the very last move.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2011

FA: Neil Monteith, 3rd Aug

25Sport 17m, 10

1.10.12. Orchid Alley 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

A small overhung wall of grey smooth rock in a shady gully. Should contain 4 or 5 routes eventually. There are some spectacular orchids growing on the top of the wall - sadly there were probably a lot more like this closer to the carpark before thieves took them.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The wall is located in the first possible walk down descent gully after Indian Head, about 100m past 'Black Snake Buttress'. It's 50m past a small creek and cascading waterfall. Walk down the easy angled gully for 20m then turn left to see the wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Big News Day

A little steep and a little pumpy. Stick clip first bolt, over bulge and up flake then punchy crux leaving the horizontal break. Traverse right from bolt 5 then back left and up to anchors.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

22Sport 14m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
1 Hill - PROJECT Unknown 1.10.8. The Corner Store
5 * Puddin Pie Mixed 12m, 1 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
Rise of the Feret Trad 25m 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
6 * Millie My Friend Trad 25m 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
7 History never repeats Trad 25m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Dragon Fly Mixed 14m, 2 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
9 Cruise Control Sport 12m 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone
10 Simple Life Sport 12m 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone
Pinch Grip Trad 35m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Yesterdays Hero's Unknown 22m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
11 Tim's Torment Sport 17m 1.2.1. Black Wall
* Maximum Multiplicity Trad 50m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Little Miss Sunshine Sport 14m, 8 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Traddington Bear Trad 25m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
12 Shanadoa Trad 50m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Chuffed Sport 13m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
Push over Sport 10m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
Dad's Comb Trad 14m 1.2.6. Titanic
Mum's Short and Curleys Sport 15m 1.2.6. Titanic
** Silver Bull Sport 14m, 8 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Greenstick Sport 10m, 4 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Cab Rank Trad 50m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
** Mystery Mossy Slab Sport 30m, 5 1.10.11. Black Snake Buttress
13 Face the Music Sport 12m, 6 1.7.1. Southern Sector
Shittin Bricks Unknown 35m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Triantiwantigongalope Trad 35m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
** Usurper Trad 40m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
14 I'm Lichen It Sport 10m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
* It's a Lark Sport 15m 1.2.6. Titanic
Work is Such a Wank Sport 18m, 10 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Easy Peasy Sport 10m 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
Easy Pickings Sport 15m 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
Lady of the Flies Sport 12m, 6 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
Bunny Corner Sport 17m, 5 1.9.1. Sector 1 - Descent Gully Area
* Minimals Trad 65m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Bingo Wings Sport 15m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Gone, But Not Forgotten! Sport 25m, 9 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
15 Fortunes Crown Sport 16m 1.2.2. Sundeck
Street Sweeper Sport 15m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
Horses Gift Sport 11m 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone
Doubtfire Sport 12m, 6 1.5.1. Fucktardia
The Team Shire cafe experience Sport 15m 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
Rock Dodgin Lawn Bowlin Granny Sport 6m, 5 1.6.13. Descent Gully Walls
Token Sport 13m, 4 1.6.13. Descent Gully Walls
Musical Distractions Sport 9m, 4 1.8.2. Dark Side
The Rocky Horror Show Trad 18m 1.8.2. Dark Side
** Grouple Guy Sport 15m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Just Think Pork Sport 16m, 9 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
*** Mythical Tomatoes Trad 45m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Hill Does Crack Trad 20m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Sheep Graziers Alert Sport 10m 1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall
damn you custardo! Unknown 25m 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
16 Lisa's Monkey Sport 12m 1.1.2. Left Wall
Veg Sport 15m 1.1.2. Left Wall
The Bendix Promise Sport 12m 1.2.2. Sundeck
Sinking Fast Trad 14m 1.2.6. Titanic
* Rubics Cube Sport 15m, 9 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Macmillan Madness Sport 12m, 7 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Wicked Ways Sport 15m, 6 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Money Shot Sport 15m, 7 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Shadrach Memorial Sport 20m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Who Let Fluffy Off the Chain Sport 9m, 7 1.5.8. Nugget Wall
Foreplay Sport 15m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Thin Edge of the Wedge Sport 13m, 5 1.6.13. Descent Gully Walls
Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy Sport 20m 1.8.2. Dark Side
Mini Water Holes Sport 12m 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
Roger Bourne Identity Sport 16m, 6 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Redneck Robbers Sport 20m, 7 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
17 Barbeque Breakfast Sport 12m 1.2.2. Sundeck
* Delta Cream Sport 17m 1.2.2. Sundeck
Hazy Days Sport 11m 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone
* Frank & Beans! Sport 16m 1.3.1. Access Canyon
* Jugging with Jasper Sport 18m 1.3.1. Access Canyon
* Tell Your Story Walking Sport 16m, 9 1.3.2. Tell your story area
Mork and Manky Sport 13m, 6 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Knucklehead Sport 15m, 7 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Thick and Thirsty Sport 12m, 7 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
No Show Sport 11m, 7 1.5.4. Metalloid Wall
Zis is KAOS Sport 15m, 7 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Hung Out To Dry Sport 25m 1.6.11. Sandpaper Wall
Forlorn Bowls Sport 14m, 6 1.6.13. Descent Gully Walls
** Imaginary Friends Sport 18m, 9 1.7.1. Southern Sector
*** Panache Sport 20m, 10 1.7.1. Southern Sector
Dirt Merchant Trad 30m 1.7.3. Arcadia
May the Schartz be with you Trad 16m 1.8.2. Dark Side
Musical Distractions Direct Sport 9m, 4 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Sol with Summer Sport 30m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Cool Bananas Sport 14m, 7 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Cracks in the Coalition of the Willing Trad 20m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
* Diagonal Crack Trad 20m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
Roger the Rhino Sport 22m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
* Roger the Sea Lion Sport 15m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
* Heir Hill Unknown 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
Hill 17 Sport 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
* Hey Day Trad 48m 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
18 * Beat The Drum Sport 18m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
Bingo Wings Sport 15m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
The Dish Sport 11m 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone
** Sunset Boulevard Sport 20m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
* Wiggle Room Sport 16m, 9 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Dueling Drills Sport 17m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Shoulders on Snowy Sport 16m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
The Darkness Sport 17m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
When you Smile at me I go to Rehab Sport 10m, 4 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Girlie Action Sport 12m, 7 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
The United Nations Sport 12m, 7 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
Promethium Sport 15m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
* The Gold Lead Sport 14m, 7 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
Fools Gold Sport 18m 1.5.7. Diamond Wall
* Hypocritical Has Beens Sport 20m 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
After Dinner Sex Games Sport 18m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Wasp in the Willows Sport 25m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Sandpaper Sally Sport 24m 1.6.11. Sandpaper Wall
Space Cadet Sport 12m, 6 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
Fully Sick Mate Unknown 8m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* N1-H1 Sport 8m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Under the Milky Wy Sport 15m 1.8.2. Dark Side
Corona with Lemon Sport 30m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Grouple Girl Sport 18m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Grouple RHV Sport 20m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Peroni with Pizza Sport 30m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
** Captain Australia and the Lemon Argonauts Sport 15m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
** Je Veux vous Entendre Siffler! Sport 22m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
*** Mouche Pique Sport 20m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Roger the Emu Sport 15m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
Roger the Nudibranch Sport 20m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
Roger the Woodchuck Sport 12m, 5 1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall
Roger the Boa Constrictor Sport 15m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
* Roger the Hippo Sport 22m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
** Subterfuge Trad 50m 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
* The Player Sport 20m, 7 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
19 The End Is Near Sport 17m 1.2.2. Sundeck
Ninety Eight Point Nine Sport 18m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
Daily Grind Trad 15m 1.2.4. Members Area
I Cairn Do It! Sport 18m, 9 1.3.2. Tell your story area
* Come in Spinner Sport 18m, 8 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Eric Shaun Sport 8m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Two Up Sport 15m, 8 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
* Booty Call Sport 12m, 8 1.5.1. Fucktardia
** Goldielynx Sport 14m, 8 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Skirt Wearing Nancyboy Sport 15m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Ocean Views Sport 28m 1.6.11. Sandpaper Wall
*** Cosmic Thing Sport 18m, 9 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
* Lunar-Tick Sport 18m, 8 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
* My Favourite Martian Sport 18m, 9 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
* Fronds of the Earth Sport 16m, 5 1.8.2. Dark Side
Skinny Wog Sport 8m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Who is Mike Collins? Sport 9m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Lost for Profit Sport 18m, 8 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
* Carlsberg's at the Cricket Sport 30m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Slab of Death Sport 16m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Slippin Chicks Sport 12m, 6 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
** The Horse Has Bolted Sport 25m, 11 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Roger the Pelican Sport 18m, 9 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
** The Butcher of Berkeley Sport 18m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
* Roger the Iguana Sport 12m, 5 1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall
* Maurice the Fart Freak Sport 25m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
Puit Damour Sport 20m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
** Bryden's Backflip Mixed 35m, 6 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
** Her Royal Shortness Sport 25m, 8 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
20 * Ball Burner Sport 18m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
Anti-Gravitron Sport 12m 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone
Twilitght Zone Sport 14m 1.2.6. Titanic
* Boogie Nights Sport 18m, 10 1.3.2. Tell your story area
* Bring on the Fluffer Sport 18m, 10 1.3.2. Tell your story area
** Coefficient of Drag Sport 20m, 12 1.3.2. Tell your story area
** Old Dog New Tricks Mixed 23m, 6 1.3.2. Tell your story area
* Infans Panthera Sport 20m, 8 1.3.3. Tiger wall
Rough, Raw and Ranting Sport 18m, 11 1.5.1. Fucktardia
** Hard Working Hands Sport 18m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
* Heart of Darkness Sport 13m, 8 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Good Strontium Sport 20m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
** Just add gold Sport 7 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
** Lithium Ion Sport 15m, 7 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
Where Eagles Dare Sport 18m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
* Blood Diamond Sport 20m 1.5.7. Diamond Wall
* Fluffin the Muffin Sport 20m, 9 1.5.8. Nugget Wall
Suck It Up Princess Sport 9m, 6 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
*** 3D Disco Sport 20m 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
*** Bromance Sport 30m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Café Cruiser Sport 30m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
Espresso Sport 15m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Air Active Sport 25m 1.6.11. Sandpaper Wall
* Chk Chk Boom Sport 8m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Need Another Seven Astronauts Sport 20m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Sun Dew Sport 20m, 9 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
Crispin Licks Sport 12m, 7 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Wombat Combat Unknown 35m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Gym Junkies Cant Jam Sport 20m, 10 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Trad Dads Can't Campus Sport 20m, 8 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Bunker Bolster Sport 18m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
* Climb Of Mass Destruction Sport 18m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
Kurds in the Whey Sport 18m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
Slabbing with Sadamn Sport 20m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
* The Butchers Brother Sport 18m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
* What Weapons Sport 18m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
* Pat Pat Sport 23m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
* Tassi Rabbi Sport 15m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
* Kombi Crime Scene Sport 23m, 7 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
21 * Muscle Thruster Sport 15m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
* The Back Slapping Crack Wax Sport 18m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
* Trap Buddies Sport 18m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
** 6" Release Left hand finish Unknown 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
* 6" Release Right hand finish Unknown 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
** 6' Release LHV Sport 17m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
* 6' Release RHV Sport 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
Triple J Sport 18m 1.2.3. Berlin Wall
** Cheeky Possum Sport 15m 1.2.4. Members Area
* Graba Granny Sport 1.2.4. Members Area
* Mr Pebble Sport 1.2.4. Members Area
** Simon's Dash for Cash Sport 16m 1.3.1. Access Canyon
** Whatever Minger Sport 22m 1.3.2. Tell your story area
* Panthera Sport 30m, 16 1.3.3. Tiger wall
* Bloodsport For All Sport 15m, 9 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
** The Establishment Sport 15m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
** Flight of the Fucktards Sport 22m, 9 1.5.1. Fucktardia
** AeroPress Sport 16m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
** Flame then Fire Sport 22m, 9 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
*** Spare a Thought Sport 12m, 7 1.5.4. Metalloid Wall
* Tickles on Tour Sport Project 22m, 7 1.5.4. Metalloid Wall
* Rare Earth Sport 20m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
** Unobtainium Sport 14m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
*** Violently Silence Me Sport 14m, 7 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
*** Diamond Tipped Sport 20m 1.5.7. Diamond Wall
* Whippersnapper Sport 20m, 10 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
** 22000lbs of Thrust Sport 20m 1.6.1. 22000lbs area
Black Butt (Bromance Direct) Sport 30m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
** Bumpin' Peepees Sport 23m, 11 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Sucked in Spartacus Sport 25m, 12 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Remorseless Sport 15m, 9 1.6.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
** Caught Napping Sport 15m 1.6.9. Fernville
Resurrection Sport 12m 1.6.9. Fernville
** Beetle Juice Sport 15m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
Buckingham Bunga Sport 22m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
* The Bunga Bunga Climb Sport 18m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
* Through the Wringer Sport Project 15m, 8 1.6.12. Wringer Wall
* Bleat or Retreat Sport 9m, 5 1.7.1. Southern Sector
* Crab Nebula Sport 16m, 5 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Fat Wog Sport 8m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Hyperspace Sport 16m, 6 1.8.2. Dark Side
** Psalm Pilot Sport 16m, 6 1.8.2. Dark Side
Southern Cross Sport 15m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Wormhole Sport 12m, 7 1.8.2. Dark Side
* YAKing Lines Sport 18m 1.8.2. Dark Side
** Chicken Lips Sport 18m, 7 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Fricasse Maison Unknown 23m, 10 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
* Ketchup Sport 35m, 12 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Rod's Roof Unknown 25m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
Snacky Cakes Sport 20m, 10 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Whistling For Dinner Sport 22m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Storking Pork Sport 15m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
* Debbie Duz Dishes Sport 25m 1.10.5. Chunders Glenn - Lower Wall
** Double Decaf Sport 20m, 8 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe
* Half Double Decaf Sport 20m 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe
* Bundy Burger Unknown 20m 1.10.7. Bundy's Bar and Grill
* Bundy burger & barby sauce Sport 20m 1.10.7. Bundy's Bar and Grill
* Yak My Nuggets Sport 22m, 10 1.10.8. The Corner Store
** Drop Bears Do Exist Sport 20m, 9 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
** Heebie Jeebies Sport 30m, 12 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
* Gale Force Nine Sport 16m, 7 1.10.11. Black Snake Buttress
22 ** Bionic Barf Bunnies Sport 22m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
* Bum-eyed Bumosaurus Sport 18m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
** The Sperminator Sport 18m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
Fiest-Fest Sport 12m 1.2.2. Sundeck
* Kill It and Grill It Sport 1.2.4. Members Area
* Origami Sport 15m 1.2.4. Members Area
* The Nose Of The Umpire Sport 1.2.4. Members Area
New Years Resolution Sport 11m 1.2.5. Gardens of Stone
Fine by Me! (project) Sport 20m 1.3.1. Access Canyon
** Myopia Sport 19m, 9 1.3.2. Tell your story area
* A Bang and a Wimpy Sport 15m, 9 1.3.2. Tell your story area
** Rock Out with your Cock Out Sport 20m 1.3.2. Tell your story area
Steel Salvation Sport 20m 1.3.2. Tell your story area
Seaman Staynes Sport 9m, 3 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
* Shenanigans Sport 15m, 11 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
*** Leeched as Bro Sport 30m, 10 1.4.4. No Man's Land
Ego Tango Sport 15m, 7 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
* Fingers Sport 12m, 4 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
** First World Problem Sport 20m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
* Suffer in Silence Sport 12m, 8 1.5.4. Metalloid Wall
** Leper Messiah Sport 16m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
* Lithium Ion Direct Sport 14m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
* Nickel Metal Hydride Sport 12m, 6 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
* The Hand of Faith Sport 15m, 7 1.5.8. Nugget Wall
** This one time, at Band Camp Sport 20m 1.5.8. Nugget Wall
* Mugged By Reality Sport 15m, 7 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
** Rite of Passage Sport 23m, 11 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
* Dumpster Diving Sport 20m 1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors
** Protein Pill Sport 22m 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
** Who's Who in the Climbing Zoo Sport 20m 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
*** You can't handle me Ruth Sport 30m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Waste of Sin Sport 15m, 8 1.6.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
** Cover Boy Sport 16m 1.6.9. Fernville
* What's This Button For? Sport 15m 1.6.9. Fernville
* Battle of the Bulge Sport 15m, 6 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Dragon Fly Sport 15m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Truck stop Party Girl Sport 22m 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Fair weather trainer Sport 26m 1.6.11. Sandpaper Wall
* Asteroids in Uranus Sport 18m, 8 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
** Beam Me Up Scotty Sport 18m, 10 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
* Gravity Sucks Sport 15m 1.8.2. Dark Side
** Millenum Falcon Sport 16m, 6 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Delicious Sport 15m, 6 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
* SunnySide Up Sport 13m, 5 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
** Big News Day Sport 14m, 6 1.10. Tianjara Falls
** Thriller Sport 20m, 7 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
*** Thriller Direct Sport 18m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
** Dave Fern Sport 25m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Diamond Head Sport 25m, 10 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
*** Dodecahedron Sport 20m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
** Groovy Tuesday Sport 18m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Ive Got Wood Sport 15m, 8 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Les Vacances De St Rita Sport 22m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Time For Turnips Sport 22m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
A Sadamn Saturday Sport 20m 1.10.3. Bag-Dad Wall
*** Lattes on the Lounge Sport 20m, 8 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe
** Greasy Chiko Roll Sport 18m 1.10.8. The Corner Store
* Artline 700 Sport 17m, 10 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
* Highway Heist Sport 18m 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
** Seven Day Adventurist Sport 25m, 7 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
*** The Artist known as Graham Hill Sport 15m 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
*** funk soul rubber Unknown 30m 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
** Barbed Wire Love Mixed 35m, 7 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
** Big News Day Sport 14m, 6 1.10.12. Orchid Alley
23 ** Puke Skywalker Sport 15m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
** Trilobutt Sport 18m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
* Plasto Bambola Sport 20m, 8 1.1.2. Left Wall
* Rats Project Sport 23m 1.1.2. Left Wall
** Back Door Bangin Sport 16m 1.2.4. Members Area
*** Bakery Treat Sport 16m 1.2.4. Members Area
Shoot it and Root it Sport 16m 1.2.4. Members Area
*** Slice it & Dice It Sport 22m 1.2.4. Members Area
** Scumbag with a bumbag Sport 16m 1.3.1. Access Canyon
*** Flake Orgasm Sport 20m, 12 1.3.2. Tell your story area
* Should'a Been a Contender Sport 20m, 10 1.3.2. Tell your story area
Tree House Sport 6m, 3 1.4.1. North-Western side
*** Five Star Dreams Sport 14m, 8 1.5.1. Fucktardia
** A Spot Pumpy Sport 13m, 9 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
** Rumpy Pumpy Sport 14m, 9 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
** Spot Gold Sport 13m, 8 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
* Brazen Sport 12m, 8 1.5.4. Metalloid Wall
** Blood Sweat Steel Sport 16m, 8 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
* Quality Junk Sport 18m, 7 1.5.6. Metaloid Wall
** The Welcome Stranger Sport 15m, 7 1.5.8. Nugget Wall
** Angelic Upstart Sport 18m, 9 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
* Moral Compass Sport 22m, 11 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
** Princess Marsh Fly Sport 12m, 7 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
** Princess Toughenup Sport 10m, 6 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
This Wretched Life Sport 20m, 10 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
*** Smoking Mirrors Sport 25m, 10 1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors
** Tic-tac-toe Sport 20m 1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors
** Crash Test Dummies Sport 20m 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
* 97% Fern Free Sport 25m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Drop Tongue Sport Project 32m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Forest Stump Sport 28m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
*** Pocket Shot Sport 16m, 6 1.6.9. Fernville
** After the Rapture Sport 15m, 8 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
** Beam Me Up Scotty (Direct Start) Sport 18m, 10 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
* Hill Stole My Route Sport 9m, 4 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
*** Wot u Got Gets Me Hot Sport 20m, 12 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
* Keyboard Cat Sport 16m, 6 1.8.2. Dark Side
*** One small step for a YAK Sport 20m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Quantam Physics Sport 20m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Heal and Toe Sport 10m, 5 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
*** Water Holes Sport 23m, 9 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
* Kicking Heads Sport 20m, 9 1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave
** Custard Canon Sport 20m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Don't Give Up Maman Sport 20m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Don't Give Up Maman - Direct Start Unknown 20m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Hill Project zz9zpluralzalpha Sport 21m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Married Mans Clip Up Sport 12m, 6 1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall
Pissing Protein Sport 12m 1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall
** Doppio Sport 15m, 5 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe
** Short black Sport 22m, 9 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe
*** Boulet Frit Left Hand Start Sport 22m, 10 1.10.8. The Corner Store
** Bear Droppings Sport 21m, 11 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
*** Fractured Fairytales Sport 30m, 11 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
* Lauren (the) Chili Goddess Sport 22m, 13 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
* Please The Keys Sport 22m, 14 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
*** Roo Rot Sport 22m, 14 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
*** Stairway to Heaven Sport 25m, 9 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
** The Empire Strikes Yak Sport 30m, 12 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
** Zut Il Pleut Sport 24m, 15 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
*** Beat Up and Thrown Out Aid 30m 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
24 ** Romancing The Bone Sport 23m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
* The Melbourne Connection Sport 15m 1.2.4. Members Area
*** Rockaholic Sport 20m 1.3.2. Tell your story area
** Seeking Solace in the Bottle Sport 23m, 11 1.3.2. Tell your story area
*** Tiger Tales Sport 30m 1.3.3. Tiger wall
** Ivy Bouncers Sport 15m, 8 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
* Long Dong Silver Sport 10m, 5 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
** Marmion Sport 18m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Take Me I'm Yours Sport 15m, 8 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
Shits and Giggles Sport 15m 1.5.4. Metalloid Wall
*** Atomic Fluffies Sport 18m, 11 1.5.8. Nugget Wall
*** Pavlovian Response Sport 23m, 13 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
*** Sun Dance Kid Sport 27m, 10 1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors
*** Frequent Flyer Points Sport 20m, 11 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
* More Fun Than a Bunch of Monkeys Sport Project 28m, 11 1.6.5. Amazonia
** Short Sharp Explanation Sport 25m 1.6.6. Cafe Cruiser Wall
* Pleasure Spiked With Pain Sport 25m, 12 1.6.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
** Just Desserts are Not Slimming Sport 20m 1.6.9. Fernville
*** Tecktonik Sport 14m 1.6.9. Fernville
** Snitch Sport 13m, 7 1.6.10. Wasp in the Willows
*** My Bolts My Climb Sport 18m 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
** Supernova Sport 23m, 10 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
* iClimb Sport 9m, 4 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
*** Big Bang Theory Sport 20m 1.8.2. Dark Side
** Burning Palms Sport 18m 1.8.2. Dark Side
* Palmasutra Sport 18m, 6 1.8.2. Dark Side
*** YAKsative Sport 20m 1.8.2. Dark Side
** Steal Some Steel Sport 15m, 6 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
*** Swiss Cheese Sport 20m, 9 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
*** When the Wind Blows Sport 30m, 12 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
** Driller Sport 16m, 6 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
** Statue of liberty Sport 30m 1.10.1. Bill James Testimonial Gully
** Gratefully Dead Sport 25m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
* Rita's Revenge Sport 20m, 9 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
** Shut The Gate Sport 12m, 6 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
** Upchuck Sport 20m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
** Emporium Sport 20m, 8 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe
** Big YAK Value Meal Sport 24m 1.10.8. The Corner Store
*** Boule et Frit Sport 20m 1.10.8. The Corner Store
* Hairy Snotter And The Quims of Quidich Sport 18m, 8 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
*** Bad Boys Get Spanked Sport 15m, 7 1.10.10. Indian Head (north)
** Black Snake Sport 20m, 9 1.10.11. Black Snake Buttress
25 ** Bullet Proof Sport 17m, 9 1.3.2. Tell your story area
** Dixie Normus Sport 8m, 7 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
** Lap Dance for a Lazy Libido Sport 9m, 4 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
** Castor's Bullox Sport 15m, 8 1.4.3. South-Western side
Last in Line Sport 20m 1.6.1. 22000lbs area
** High Roller Sport 20m 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
*** Jungle Love Sport 25m, 10 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
** Amazonia Sport 30m, 11 1.6.5. Amazonia
*** Jerkyll & Hyde Sport 30m, 13 1.6.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
* Ugly Duckling Sport 15m, 9 1.6.8. Ugly Duckling Wall
*** Powder Burns Sport 20m 1.6.9. Fernville
** Very Thick Piece of Toast Sport 15m, 9 1.6.9. Fernville
** Rock Star Sport 20m 1.8.2. Dark Side
*** Blinded by the White Sport 25m, 12 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
*** Faux Buoux Sport 30m, 14 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
*** Pocket Rocket Sport 20m, 9 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
** Forgot Me Knot Sport 14m, 5 1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave
** Masterstroke Sport 20m, 10 1.9.4. Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall
* Heat Blast Sport 15m 1.10.2. Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods
Sausage Machine Sport 12m 1.10.4. Chunders Glenn - Upper Wall
* Avec Moutarde Sport 22m, 10 1.10.8. The Corner Store
** Triennial Sport 17m, 10 1.10.11. Black Snake Buttress
26 ** Godzilla Sport 35m, 15 1.3.3. Tiger wall
** Lesbian Liberator Sport 9m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
*** Sassy Sport 19m, 10 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
*** The Flame Sport 30m, 12 1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors
*** Where's The Gold Sport 20m, 9 1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors
*** Boab Business Sport Project 31m, 15 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
*** Forgot Me Knot Extension Sport 20m, 9 1.9.3. Sector 3 - The Cave
** Come Out Fighting Sport 18m, 9 1.9.4. Sector 4 - Pearlescent Wall
* Froggie's OPEN Project Unknown 20m 1.10.8. The Corner Store
*** Sahara Sport 25m 1.10.9. Drop bear wall
29 Who's Ya Daddy Sport 15m, 7 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
*** The Simple Life Sport Project 25m, 8 1.6.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
? ** Alien's Route Three Sport 22m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
*** Alien's Route Two Sport 22m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
** Aliens Route One Sport 20m 1.1. Afterburner Wall
Half Bolted Project Sport 20m 1.1.2. Left Wall
Project Sport 14m 1.2.4. Members Area
Beer Goggles Project adam Unknown 1.3.1. Access Canyon
Wallwombat's project Sport 1.3.1. Access Canyon
CBGB (project rick) Sport 18m 1.3.2. Tell your story area
Eyes Wide Shut (Monty Project) Sport 25m, 14 1.3.2. Tell your story area
Soho (project rick) Sport 18m 1.3.2. Tell your story area
Whiskey A Go-Go (project rick) Sport 12m 1.3.2. Tell your story area
** Project - The Gentlemens Club Sport 25m, 6 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Project willz Sport 15m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Will-da-Beast (project Will) Sport 9m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Willy Bonker in the Chocolate Daiquiri (project Will) Sport 10m 1.4.2. Middle Ground - Upper
Dismember - Project Vero Unknown 15m 1.4.3. South-Western side
Project - Bundy Sport 12m, 6 1.4.3. South-Western side
STTTTuck on U Glenns Project direct Unknown 1.4.3. South-Western side
oopps Glenn really hard project Sport Project 1.4.4. No Man's Land
Driven to Tears(Project Wogdog) Sport Project 12m, 7 1.4.4. No Man's Land
Glenn Project Unknown 1.4.4. No Man's Land
Ho's B4 Bros(Project Rick) Unknown Project 30m 1.4.4. No Man's Land
Willis Project Sport 1.4.4. No Man's Land
Project - Bundy prou Sport Project 22m 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Project Wogdog 8 Sport Project 12m, 8 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Project Wogdog 13 Sport Project 15m, 10 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Project Wogdog 6 Sport Project 16m, 11 1.5.1. Fucktardia
Project - Neil Sport 20m 1.5.2. The Mullock Heap
Project Glenn Jones Sport Project 1.5.3. Easy Pickings Walls
Bundy Project Sport Project 15m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
Hard Project Unknown 12m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
Project - Rod Unknown 15m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
project (Pockets Of Yttrium) Sport Project 18m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
project 3 RE Sport Project 20m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
project 4 RE Sport Project 18m 1.5.5. Rare Earth Buttress
Grey Streak (Glenn Jones Project) Sport Project 18m 1.5.6. Metaloid Wall
Hit The Motherlode (project) Sport Project 25m 1.5.7. Diamond Wall
Project - Diamond Tipped Extension Sport Project 1.5.7. Diamond Wall
project 1 Sport Project 23m 1.5.7. Diamond Wall
Project Claw Sport Project 22m 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
Project Wogdog 12 Sport Project 10 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
Project Woof Sport Project 1.5.9. The Sluice Box
? Fuck the Mojo - Bundy Project Sport Project 20m 1.6.3. Smoke and Mirrors
Jenga's the best and bundy has way to many projects.- PROJECT Sport Project 20m 1.6.4. Rick Roller's Rap in Area
Adventureland (NEIL'S PROJECT) Sport Project 30m 1.6.5. Amazonia
Open Project Sport Project 25m, 9 1.6.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
Project - Matt B Sport Project 30m, 12 1.6.7. Rock'n Tree Cave
Wrung Out (Project Wogdog) Sport Project 14m, 10 1.6.12. Wringer Wall
Pumped Bumpkin (Project Glenn Jones) Sport Project 20m 1.7.1. Southern Sector
Project Glenn Jones Sport Project 1.7.1. Southern Sector
Project Wogdog A Sport Project 13m, 7 1.7.1. Southern Sector
Project Wogdog B Sport Project 18m, 9 1.7.1. Southern Sector
Project Wogdog C Sport Project 14m 1.7.1. Southern Sector
Asteroids Arete - PROJECT Sport 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
** Hill Project Sport 23m 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
You Snooze You Lose (Project Rick) Unknown 17m 1.8.1. Lunar Wall
** Dark Star - Bundy Project Sport 16m 1.8.2. Dark Side
OPEN PROJECT Sport 20m 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
The Ape Factor - PROJECT Sport 18m 1.9.2. Sector 2 - Faux Buoux
Project - Hill Sport 25m 1.10.6. Rick's Cafe
Frog - PROJECT Unknown 1.10.8. The Corner Store
Hill Project Unknown 1.10.8. The Corner Store
Project Glen Jones