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Showing 1 - 100 out of 116 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
North-Western side Toxic Beauty area
21 *** Toxic Beauty

The name of this climb came from reading an article about chemicals in skin-care products. A little ripper with some nice pockets! Starts directly below 'Easy Tiger!' from the bottom of the cliff. Up the centre of the pocketed buttress and short wall at top, to anchor just below the ledge. If

continuing up 'Easy Tiger!' to the top of the cliff, the second can be belayed from the large tree on the ledge.

Sport 18m, 6
15 * Easy Tiger!

A pleasant outing. Starts from the ledge directly above 'Toxic Beauty'. High step up groove, then left up short orange pockety wall, and over bulge. A good (optional) nut placement is possible on the grey wall above, otherwise head straight up past RB. Mantle onto ledge, and hoick yourself up over the small cave lip to the anchor.

Sport 23m, 5
North-Western side The Sunny Ledge
19 Corrugations

Follow the water worn feature straight up.

Sport 10m, 5
18 ** DeWaltzing Matilda

3m right of 'Corrugations'. Slabby start and through juggy overlaps.

Sport 11m, 5
20 ** Mind the Gap

On the adjacent buttress, the line in the middle of face. Carefully cross the gap (there is a RB for the belayer to clip into to prevent any falls off the ledge). Straight up, then some nice sequency moves veering left then right.

Sport 11m, 6
20 Igor the Lada

Starts from the bottom of the cliff, directly below 'Mind the Gap'. Follow the line of bolts and either exit onto the Sunny Ledge, or continue up 'Mind the Gap'.

Sport
North-Western side
23 Tree House

A nice boulder problem with a couple of bolts. Start at the groove, crank over bulge and up to the jug with the little tree growing behind it (try to grab this hold on the right-hand side to avoid breaking the tree's house!).

Sport 6m, 3
Middle Ground The Basement
22 ** Enlacement

Left arete of alcove, directly below Sunset Boulevard. Fine overhung slapping that is clearly visible from the ledge above. Worth the extra 2 minute walk.

FA: Neil Monteith & simon carter, 2016

Sport 15m
Middle Ground
19 Two Up

Starts just right of the crack on the steep orange wall then traverses around the arete, not as nice as "Spinner" and a touch harder.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 15m, 8
19 * Come in Spinner

Same start as Two Up then just blast up thru the orange squeeze out onto the arete where it meets the roof. Finishes at Two Up anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 18m, 8
18 ** Sunset Boulevard

30 mtrs from the rungs at the first orange wall, has two pockets to start the climb then on the wall until you push out onto the arete

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

Sport 20m
22 Shenanigans

Starts in middle of black wall just around from Sunset Boulevard, then goes out to the right hand arete

FA: John Lattanzio & Rick Phillips, 2011

Sport 15m, 11
21 ** The Establishment

Climbs the right side of the the Establishment wall. Nice big jugs the whole way.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

Sport 15m
24 ** Ivy Bouncers

Your arms will feel like they got thumped by five bouncers in a basement. Start up ramp as for 'The Establishment', then take left line of rings up middle of immaculate orange face, joining back into 'The Establishment' at the fifth bolt with a wild lunge right to the arête.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2011

Sport 15m, 8
26 ** The Gentlemens Club

Up the centre of the wall L of Ivy Bouncers joining this just before the crux.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 25m, 6
21 * Bloodsport For All

The steep, overhanging corner crack sporting stainless steel. Stem, jam and layback - just like a trad route.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Sport 15m, 9
24 ** Marmion

Just after steep white pocketed wall on undercut orange arete. Bouldery start best to extend 4th draw

FA: Willz, 2000

Sport 18m
27 ** Lies & Forgiveness

Start: In undercut steep blank roof with super bouldery moves to get the obvious pocket. Power through roof with balance to chains.

FA: Greg Reavski, 2016

Sport 10m
28 *** Who's Ya Daddy

Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep and powerful start leads to bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete. Power endurance test piece.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 15m, 7
25 * Dixie Normus

The rightward trending flake feature. Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'. After tackling the initial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2012

Sport 8m, 7
25 * Long Dong Silver

Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then follow the line of bolts left and up.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 10m, 5
26 * Clam Hammer

Just a slap right of Lap Dance, punchy start leads to a bouldery rightward traverse before heading up to the anchors for glory.

Set by Will

FA: Andrew Richards, 2016

Sport 9m, 7
25 ** Lap Dance for a Lazy Libido

Classic of the genre! The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 9m, 4
26 ** Lesbian Liberator

Same start as Lap Dance then head left at second draw. Bring some power and a good belayer for this one.

FA: Graham "Liberator" Fairburn, 2010

Sport 9m
22 Seaman Staynes

The incredibly short and incredibly intense flake line 2m right from the left edge of the cave. Probably the hardest 22 on the planet. Take care clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolts.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Sport 9m, 3
19 Eric Shaun

Very left hand end of steep pocketed wall. The last few moves are fun if you put the blinkers on and don't stem off the choss to the left. Not a good warm up.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 8m
Project willz

Big orange arete with tough move at the end.

Sport 15m
16 * Rubics Cube

Starts in the middle of an orange wall, with funky looking features near the top. The track stops five mtrs on. Climb on the right side till second bolt then head back across onto the left wall before swapping back again, makes for a fun climb.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 15m, 9
14 * Work is Such a Wank

At the curving flake Fun climb well protected for first lead at the grade, some techo moves for the grade....Just think outside the square..

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 18m, 10
25 Rhythm and Blues

The last route in the area, easily up the striking black arête to around half way where balance and movement is required to get your way to the DBB up high.

FA: Andrew Richards, 2016

Sport 8
South-Western side Liquidity Wall
19 * Fancy That!

Left 'arete 'of the wall. Easy start followed by a bit of a wander gets you to the steep fun section.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 18m
21 ** Liquidity

Long wall route up the left side of the first big wall. Orange flakes to start, through bulge and up reachy wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

Sport 20m, 7
22 *** Birds Over Burnouts

Long varied climbing with a wonderful finish headwall. First bolt of 'Liquidity' then take right line of bolts up small left facing corner, over roof and weave up technical headwall.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Sport 25m, 10
18 * Peugeot: French for Lemon!

Follow bolts along big rightwards leading ramp to rest then crux move getting onto top head wall.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 28m
18 ** Crackling Rosie

Long fun climb at about 18 all the way, a little exposed way up there!!! Start at crack 4 mtrs right of "Peugeot" follow crack and wall to finish at same anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 28m
24 * Four Nil

Start just right of CR. Punchy start to a few balancey moves back right, then head straight up the black looking blankness. Difficulty backs of the higher you get.

FA: Will Watkins, 2010

Sport 25m
24 Stuck On You

The direct line to Freeloader Variant. Start as for Wait Till Winter to2nd bolt then Take left line of bolts up thin black gluey wall, then easier long finish.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2012

Sport 25m, 12
24 ** Wait 'Til You

Links Wait 'Til Winter into top half of Stuck on You.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2010

Sport 25m
24 *** Wait till Winter

Tricky start left of AC. Up the thin wall, with plenty of RBs to show the way. Shared anchors with AC.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

Sport 20m, 9
South-Western side Dark Energy Slab
18 * An Easy Day for a Lady

Before it had had its first female ascent, the Matterhorn in Switzerland was considered to be a tough climb, fit for only the strongest male mountaineers. After a woman climbed the Matterhorn, it was considered to be an easy day for a lady. The route starts on the left side of the gridbolted black slab 30m right of 'Liquidity'. Techy slab on little pockets then continues on the right-hand buttress, onto a ledge and up a short blunt arete. At the short headwall at the top, follow the line of least resistance to the right and the anchor is just over the top. Route needs a direct finish and a lower-off!

Sport 29m, 9
19 * A Loose Lady That's Easy

Start: Second climb on the black slab as you approach from left...Bit of thinking needed in the middle

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

Sport 15m
17 * An Easy Lady on the Loose

Popular and one of the best easy routes at Hylands. Four mtrs right of Easy Day. Up slab to anchors.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 15m
21 * Loose Oranges

Starts 2m right of DW on blank black slab. Has an interesting balancy mantle! Finish right at the anchors of 'Dark Energy'.

Sport 15m, 6
23 ** Dark Energy

Very technical slab climbing up black blank wall. Straight up on finger scoops. Don't try this one on a hot day it is quite engaging for a number of thin sequences.

Start: At black slab three meters left of the arete.

Sport 15m, 5
22 ** Nazomi

A balancy and technical arete on the right edge of this wall. Quite sustained and a little sandy.

Sport 15m, 5
South-Western side Zombie Wall
21 * Mon Zombie

A good climb up the other side of the arete. When you get towards the top remember that line from the favourite porn movie and "Slap that Butt" cos if you don't the next line from the movie will instantly come to mind, "yo bro watch the wind!"

Start: Same start as for 'Nazomi'.

FA: V Hill, 2010

Sport 10m, 7
21 Mon Zombie Right Hand Start

A bit crunchy. Will probably never get a repeat as it puts a hard start on a fun route and nobody wants that.

Start: Around corner to the right of previous two climbs.

FA: Hill

Sport 10m, 3
21 * Votre Dernier Chance

Wanders away from the third bolt to the left a bit to avoid any hard climbing. Otherwise a fine slabby wall with some interesting foot holds or lack there of.

Start: Three meters right of the alternative start to Mon Zombie

FA: Hill

Sport 12m, 9
Hill Project

Start: Shares same start as the previous route. Approximately three meters right of arete.

FA: Hill

SportProject 15m, 11
23 * Another Piece of Crap

A nice looking orange wall. Takes the line up the disjointed flake system. The easier climbing being in the top section. Plenty of bolts to keep even the biggest girlies happy.

FA: Hill, 2011

Sport 20m, 10
24 * Benga Benga To The Death

Unless the photo Topo gets corrected ignore it. Great climbing across the orange part of the wall on classic goutes deau and other large pockets. When you get to the crux shout BENGA BENGA and keep going. The black stuff looks crappy but is still good climbing. If your feet fall off trade in your boots for better rubber.

Start: Off the top of the large block. Same start as 'Testeagles'.

FA: Hill

Sport 18m, 11
20 * Testeagles

Great fun bridging up the corner.

FA: Hill

Sport 18m, 9
South-Western side Mystery Wall
24 ** Unleash The Bitch

Has a fantastic gritstone like section just off the ledge near the bottom. The climb sports more bolts than probably necessary, but you wont hit the ledge anymore if you clip them all. Lower off rings available before the choss top or go thru to the rings over the top edge.

Start: The first line of bolts right of the corner on the large vertical wall.

FA: Alien Visitation Crew additional bolts G Hill, 2000

Sport 29m, 14
22 ** Alien Invasion

A good rest in the middle breaks the action on this route. Next route left of Alien Anal Academy. Up wall following the long line of bolts to juggy finish. Or go thru to top on even extra crap rock.

FA: Hill, 2010

SportProject 29m, 14
24 * Alien Anal Academy

Technical wall climbing to get through to the ledge without busting your rectum out of its hiding place. Follow the tonnes of bolts through the orange band which makes the climb worth doing i must add. At the confusing conglomerate section wiggle a little right then back thru to the line on thin crimps. You have it in the bag now so punch thru to the top without bothering to clip any extra bolts. Huge jugs to finish. End at the two lower offs or if you have real guts push it thru the extra choss rock to exit over the top. You will need more draws for this though.

FA: Hill, 2010

Sport 28m, 14
23 * King of Pop

Vale Michael Jackson. Steep right trending line crossing a black streak and finishing up the featured orange stuff. Funky with a dramatic and unlikely finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2009

Sport 20m, 8
23 ** Piggy in the Middle

Up HR until 3rd bolt, then directly up into orange rock. Finish on the last few bolts on KoP. Great Direct line.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

Sport 20m, 9
21 ** Head Rush

Awesome splitter hand crack to techy wall finish on bolts. A great looking line. Technical rather than too strenuous at the crux. Great rock than will stay clean unless the ferns grow back.

Start: 3m right of King Of Pop at vertical hand crack.

FA: Alien Visitation Crew additional bolts by G Hill, 2000

Sport 20m, 10
South-Western side Pillar Environs
16 Learn to Swim

Climb up ringbolts on leftside of pillar you can use the chimney.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2009

Sport 12m, 5
Open Easy Project

Right side of pillar

Set by Jason Lammers

Sport 10m, 6
21 Terror Australis

A bit strange - an adventure! Starts in the middle of the slabby (south) side of the pinnacle 20m right of Mystery Wall. Scramble up mossy slab to the small ledge below the pinnacle. Follow bolts up slab (with a tricky move in the middle, which is easier if you are tall) to top of pinnacle. Step across the gap onto the face and follow bolts on flakey crimps to anchor at the top of the wall.

Sport 27m, 8
South-Western side Member's Only
22 * Remember

A generally solid wall climb with a good first third. Plenty of bolts with generally sound rock except for the dreaded conglomerate band.

Start: Five meters right of TA. On main wall at small left facing corner.

FA: G Hill, 2010

Sport 20m, 11
25 ** Castor's Bullox

Start two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Up the short vertical rut section and push out to the left to gain jugs in the lower middle of the wall. Up to offset flake and then move left to follow bolts to the top.

FA: V. Hill, 2011

Sport 15m, 8
22 Coffee Powered Shit Box

Great climbing on good sized holds. No razor blade finger stuffing crimpers here. All vicious edges have been dealt with and anything you snap off is because you're off route.

Start: At crack line that leads up towards end of obvious left leading ramp that bisects the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2010

Sport 15m, 8
21 ** September

Great pockets and kind edges to the top. Easy for the grade if you calibrate it from the original route on this wall 'Black Mamba'.

Start: Two meters right of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Or a little left of the true start to the obvious bisecting ramp.

FA: G Hill, 2010

Sport 16m, 8
23 * Organ Pipe Chocolate Cream

A direct to 'September' which adds even thinner climbing to the already fine start.

Start: As for 'September'

FA: G Hill, 2010

Sport 14m, 8
24 * Black Mamba

About 8m right of the pinnacle on the black face. Thin and crimpy finger-shredding fun! Start up on obvious juggy feature, and straight up on evil crimps, finishing below the big cave and sandy ledge.

Sport 16m, 5
22 ** Black Member

Great climbing up a slightly slabby wall. No real hard moves just a series of grade 20 sequences to the top. The bolts are placed to protect any unfortunate snap offs you may get on the thin flakes. No finger shredding at all on this one, all tame jugs.

Start: Five meters to the right of BM. At obvious hole in the wall.

FA: V Hill, 2010

Sport 15m, 10
22 ** Weenie (Member)

Reasonably sustained wall climbing with a crux near the top. Grade 16 all the way to the anchors.

Start: Same as 'Black Member' under hole in wall.

FA: V Hill, 2010

Sport 15m, 10
22 ** Red Member

Another solid wall climb, that keeps it's interest until almost the top before it gives up. The batman start avoids a rather strenuous start from the flake on the left.

Start: Three meters right of BM. Batman to first bolt.

FA: G Hill, 2010

Sport 15m, 8
South-Western side Busted Arse Wall
21 ** Busted-arse Ol' Coot

Start 8m right of the corner at the thin crack. Up the crack then trend left on thin holds.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Sport 18m, 10
21 ** Pucker Up

Start as for Busted-arse Ol Coot. At the top of the crack go right on the flake line heading back left near the top to the anchors.

FA: John Lattanzio, 1910

Sport 16m, 8
20 * Kiss This!

3 meters right of BaOC. Muscle onto the flake and climb with increasing difficulty until it relents to a jug haul.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Sport 15m, 8
17 Whistling Sphincter

Climb the crack just right of Kiss This! Extra bolts have been added since initial ascent.

FFA: Jon Porter, 2010

FA: Jon Porter, 2010

Sport 18m, 9
No Man's Land
oopps Glenn really hard project

Hard start trend right easier as you move up. 3 metres right of Leeched as Bro.

SportProject
22 *** Leeched as Bro

Straight up above the stump via 10 bolts with a rest halfway.

FA: Glenn Jones, 2010

Sport 30m, 10
Willis Project

Half bolted, but no more steel. When is the next batch of 1000m steel coming ?

3m left of Ho's B4 Bros.

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Sport
Driven to Tears(Project Wogdog)

20m further left. The unmistakable thin crack in the yellow wall.

SportProject 12m, 7
Utopia Crash and Burn Area
23 * Scorched Earth

Fine climb with deceptive crux

FA: Rick Phillips

Sport 18m
18 ** Crash and Burn

Punchy bouldery start following bolts that trend right

Start: In the cave under the end of the left leaning crack.

FA: Rick Phillips

Sport 12m
20 ** Crack and Burn

Could be a little harder if your technique is lacking (like mine!) Starts up left leaning crack to join crash and burn at three quarter hieght

FA: Rock Phillips

Sport 15m
24 ** Removalist

Like lifting mini bar fridges

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

Sport 12m
19 * Every Mans Dream

Start just left of 'Smash and Grab' and up the crack and grey streak.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2015

Sport 14m, 5
25 ** Smash and Grab

Thin and balancy climbing just left of arête. Start on the crack and move right to a big move after the 3rd bolt then awesome climbing to the top.

Set by Rick Phillips, 2010

FA: Wade Stewart, Jason Lammers, Rick Phillips, sabine pratt, John Lattanzio, Kimmy, Viona Young, jess potty mouth & the Bangor Chimp, 2015

Sport 15m
Utopia Middle Earth Wall
23 ** Stuck in the middle with you

Technical start leads to an easing mid section, milk the rest as the top gets very steep

Start: Start off the block and climb the blunt flake to begin.

FA: Rick Phillips

Sport 25m
22 ** Water Works

Great climb fun all the way

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 15m, 8
21 * Broken Bishop

Thin climbing with a technical crux. Start: 15 mtrs down from the chimney, up a little slab apron. Follow the line of bolts that head left and on to an easier flake.

FA: Simon Vaughn, 2010

Sport 15m, 8
22 ** Keyboard Bruises

Sharpen up your finger nails for this one, great moves on super rock

Start: 3 mtrs left of crack, as for Broken Bishop then take the right line of bolts. Leave your office hands at home for this one!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2010

Sport 10m, 5
17 * Not Fade Away

Climbs the flake that leads to another flake, that leads to another flake!

Start: At the eastern end of the wall, just left of the crack, shares Keyboard Bruises anchors

FA: Brent Papek, 2010

Sport 10m, 6
18 * Busted Blue Flower

A vertical warm up with a hardish start and nice crux

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

Sport 10m, 5
16 * Hells Gate

First Climb on the wall once you exit the Hells Mouth Zorn.

FA: Matthew Tranter, 2009

Sport 10m, 5
18 * Cerberus

Dirty, dirty, dirty route; but great fun moves.

Will get better with a few good kickings.

Balance up and control that barn dooring, grit style.

Start: Start in the entrance of the Hells Mouth Decent gully.

FA: Matthew Tranter, 2009

Sport 9m, 3
Utopia Halfway House
14 * Mash 4077

Start: The middle line on the huge flake, just right of a massive burnt tree halfway up cliff

FA: Morgan "Radar" Davis, 2000

Sport 11m
12 * Hot lips McGurty

Start: Up the right hand side of mega flake

FA: Alex "Gurty" Morris, 2000

Sport 11m
Utopia Bushwhacked Area
Snapped Project GCJ

Up the arete 3 bolts to lower off

Start: Off block 3 metres left of Bushwacked

Sport 10m
25 *** Bushwhacked

Start 3m left of the obvious crack. Climb to the ledge, then the technical slab and then steeper ground to join the crack to anchors of Crack, Back n Sack.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2010

Sport 20m, 12
18 * The Dog's Bollocks

Starts off a ledge gained by batmaning up the fixed rope. The corner behind the big tree.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2009

Sport 12m, 7
26 ** The Duck's Nuts

The diagonal line in the middle of leaning wall. Start from the ledge gained via the rope. Punchy, technical and sustained climbing to gain the pebbly band, long draw required there, and a little sting at the end.

FA: John Lattanzio, 2015

Sport 15m, 10
Utopia Punch & Judy Area
21 * Ground Zero

Pumpy start and a little techo finish

Start: Same as Peas in pod but trends left along large flake

FA: rick phillips

Sport 9m
22 * Power of One

Pumpy then just pumpy

Start: Same as Peas in pod but climbs left hand side of overhanging arete, some weak scallywags have found an option of McDougling out left and making the climb a little easier. Your choice!

FA: rick phillips

Sport 9m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 116 routes.