Routes as trad in Bill James Testimonial Gully

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

One of the original classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's. Now bolted and given 18 in the guide (Mustard?), you be the judge.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it. You can lower on a 60m rope to the floor with about 5 metres left (if belaying from on the block).

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.