Routes in New Nowra - Braidwood Road

The completely overgrown scrubby corner left of the abseil route, the only evidence being a bolt and chain anchor at the top.

Start 10m right of the abseil route at the base of a crack corner behind a turpentine tree. Climbs the line to a bolt and chain anchor?lower off on the right under the roof.

Starts at a little corner crack 6m right of MTR2.

The unmistakable corner/crack feature 100m south of the waterfall/creek has been climbed before, first ascent details unknown. 1). Climb the steep slab past 6 bolts to a double bolt belay at the base of the corner crack. 2). Climb the corner crack to top or lower off option.

A classic line that has been climbed before but no details have been found to date. The second of two major ramps about 80m right of M&A. (1) Starts at a seep and is worth tangling with to gain this classic line, up past 3 bolts and traverse to the corner, climbing the slab past another bolt and past relic to double bolt belay. (2) Continue up the corner to chain anchor (Two abseils from here) or on to the top and double bolt belay.

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

The first of the mystery routes on spectacular orange bulgy rock. (Very) annoyingly appears to be a rap-in to hanging belay and climb out route. Not sure if this has actually been climbed, or even attempted. Maybe 26ish??

Amazing central orange streak that looks like one of the most impressive routes at Nowra (seriously). Crazily, this may never have actually been done. Why doesn't anybody want to go and climb it give it a grade and some closure in its life?

When the Alien's bolted this baby they wanted you to find some balls, squeeze them together and go for it. Maybe these Aliens were British trad dudes? Start right of Aliens Route Two under large hole in rock and slabby pre-wall.

Pumper route with nails hard start and a crux way up the top. There is an easier alternative and this is to pike at the two closely spaced bolts just before the last crux its hard 23 to this point. You will see the bolts they are pretty obvious lower off anchors disguised as runners.

Start: Up on the ledge about three meters right of Alien's Route Three. In vague corner.

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts.

Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge.

Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp.

Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line.

Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock.

Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one.

Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground.

Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack.

This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!?

Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge.

This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish.

Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes.

Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience.

Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'.

The first route you pass as you scramble down the access slot. It's on the right wall. Cool in summer though a little sandy. Will clean up with a thousand ascents. Just look at 'Gun Barrel Highway' now!

This is the bottom route inside the access slot. Early bridging avoids the bouldery start. The climb gets a little sandy but is generally cool and ok.

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff. Start at the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'. Go right? Graded 25 on the ACA guide. Who knows if it's even been done?

Start at crack to the right as you come out from the descent gully. Steep on generally sound rock and big jugs with a tricky headwall to finish. Up the crack until you can follow the line of bolts left then up the edge of the rotting crap on good holds, they really are solid believe me! Snake a little right at the top for the stiff head wall.

Nice orange wall and scoops 50m left of Plasto. The top half appears to be bolted, but they forgot to do the bottom bit.

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

Steep start on good rock. Left around outside of cave and up. CAUTION: Take care clipping second bolt. 4RB's to DBB at present. (Not as shown).

Take care on thin edges. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. 6 RB's to DBB.

Start on the block 2m R of TEIN. Nice delicate moves up slab. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. Watch thin edges. 6 RB's to DBB.

Start 1m R of tree. Take care on thin edges. Past overlap then complete a short airy traverse to pull up between blocks. Named after the 'Nowra' poker machine that funded it. 6 RB's to DBB.

Work your way up the slab staying right of the corner. Increasing difficulty. 4 RB's to DBB.

Up the right hand side of the slab. Good moves in second half. 4 RB's to DBB.

...Birthday Long Weekend. A trad adventure that starts on a couple of really nice pockets caused by some quartz pebbles on the conglomerate slab. Up the slab before winding around the Right Hand arete of the Cornice and up to the highest point through a series of ledges. Moves probably only top out at 13 however all the gear is found in the horizontal breaks that wrap around the arete. There are some less than ideal and technical placements required to properly protect the climb so the grade is been upped a little accordingly. Despite its grade this shouldn't be considered a good option for an introduction to trad climbing.

Middle of slab in descent gully. 3RB's to DBB.

Right hand end of slab in descent gully.

Pleasant slab moves. 5 RB's to DBB.

The flake then straight up the slab to the edge of the cave. Good slab sections. 6 RB's to DBB.

More info needed

More info needed

Direct start to BTD. Start up the flake and bulge to join BTD at mid height. 7 RB's to DBB.

The original and the best of the three. Up the corner then L onto the slab. Use the edge of the cave then up over a short section of hollow sounding orange rock (the drum). 7 RB's to DBB.

Mid height variation to BTD. Start up BTD. Move R on slab then rejoin BTD to finish. 7 RB's to DBB.

5 RB's to DBB.

1m left of 'Origami'. Pockets to start then thin moves through to finishing jugs. 6 RBs to DBB.

Up widening crack on trad. Gritty.

Steep arete at L end of grandstand. Problem solver. Reachy crux.

Grampians-esque boulder problem start to cheecky possum, maybe v6/7

Start as for Origami then traverse right and up through sustained moves. Great excursion on good rock. 7 RBs to DBB.

Steep start on big pockets. Good moves on good rock. 5RBs to DBB.

Sustained and excellent. Varied climbing on good rock. 6 RBs to DBB.

6 RBs to DBB. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist,

5 RBs to DBB.

6 RBs to DBB.

Start as TNOTU then diagonally right. 6RBs to DBB.

Batman start. 5 RBs to DBB.

Up the arete. 4RBs to DBB.

Left of 'The Dish'. Start in the corner next to the tree. Hard start.

4 RBs to DBB

Start up the crack then step left and up the face.

5 RB's to DBB.

Up middle of slab.

3 RB's to DBB

Up the middle of the gently angled slab.

3 RB's to DBB.

Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab.

4 RB's to DBB.

Start on slab to right of overhanging wall. Finish next to small tree.

5 RB's to DBB.

3m right of AG. Follow the grey streak to left of large diagonal crack.

5 RB's to DBB.

Sustained moves up the arête. 5 RB's to DBB.

Up corner past orange rock at ¾ height. Step right at top. 6 RB's to DBB.

It starts in an overhanging wide crack with some soft, suspect rock for the feet. It works up through a pod that can be stemmed and face climbed around.

Start: The route follows the obvious overhanging corner left of Dad's Comb.

Start under right-hand end of overhang. Step out and up following crack.

Natural gear.

Start to right of Dad's Comb trad route. Up to third bolt, step left and follow last 2 bolts diagonally left to anchors.

5 RB's to DBB

Hard start, easing middle then a nails hard slab at the top. Hoist yourself up with some underclings then follow the vague arete

Use the faint flake trending left. Put a long draw or stick clip 2nd bolt. Open project by now?

Start 4 mtrs left of corner. Hard start getting thru the pockets then up to mantles and easing to the scoop at top.

Starts in the corner then you layback the crack, which leads to a steepening head wall.

Starts 3 Mtrs Right of JJ climbs the pillar thru the little roof.

Start at block R of F&B. Up over block and up face to rooflet. Over that and up to anchors. 9 bolts (I think)

Starts on black and orange wall just left of cave with large fern growing in corner.This climb starts on the big flake and takes the left hand line of bolts. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Same as Whiskey a go go and follow the line of bolts right at third bolt and pull thru the orange bulge, then pick your way up the thin head wall to finish at SOHO's anchors. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Start 3 mtrs right of large fern, straight up black wall. Hardish start leads to easy mid section with a punchy finish. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Technical slab climbing. Start 10m left of Boogie Nights. Route has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

Start just left of the shrubbery on the cliff. Thin, technical and sustained slab climbing. Follow the little corner then up the steepening slab.

Feeling a bit deflated? This is the one for you. The black slab a few meters left of the corner. Start at the base of the corner. Follow the bolts, with some engaging climbing all the way to the anchors.

The left leaning splitter crack in the wall 4m right of major corner. Some classic crack climbing and with bolted face climbing at the top. Take small to medium cams and medium to large nuts.

Finally a good route. Classic thin face climbing starting just right of the Old Dogs crack.

A Hill inspired name for a Hill inspired linkup. Start of I Cairn Do It then left into excellent finish of Rockaholic.

No cairn needed! The 1st move is the best move. Hardish bulgy start, then move out right towards the arete and up.

Best rock at the crag. Lovely marbled pockets up subtle prow. Starts a few metres right of I Cairn Do It on right side of arete at undercut cave. The start move goes via a sneaky move from the block on the right. Bonus crux at the top through the rooflet.

Strenuous and technical climbing up the line left of the obvious square cut roof with a couple of finger locks chucked in to boot. Climb the left wall under the roof, exiting left and up crack to break, step right and up black wall to anchors.

OMG, a bolted crack! Carefully up just right of cave and trend left up to the flake crack.

Starts 20 mtrs right of square cut roof at off width crack. Rick reckons looking back this is probably a trad climb, but the crack would have taken up so much gear so 1. you would have needed a bigger rack and 2. you would have nowhere to put your hands, now you can clips the bolts and have no hassles!

Left edge of beautiful vertical wall starting at short wide corner. Bridge the chimney, turn the rooflet on the left, up short corner and finish up wall to anchors

Panther classic. Excellent climbing on the flake with a pumpy finish. Start as for Tell Your Story Walking and at third bolt break right across face to gain left facing flake. Up this to top!

Starts 5m right of 'Flake' Orgasm at the arete. Batman up to 2nd bolt (or climb tree). Climb the thin arete, taking care with the 3rd clip, a long sling would be useful. Gain the upper face nice climbing to anchors.

Great climbing once you get past the start shenanigans. Option 1 (the true free version!) involves climbing the tree for 5m and awkwardly traversing right. Option 2 (The better way) is just to stick clip the first bolt and hoist your way up batman style to the first holds. Stem up the hanging corner, then left under roof and finish up right line of bolts above.

The bouldery steep wall that gains the corner of 'Myopia' then straight out of the roof and up the arete.

An exciting excursion and esiest line through the big roof. Start as for Myopia and follow the line of bolts right and up the headwall.

The first slabby half of 'Panthera' finishing below the chossy cave. Quality marbled rock all the way but without traffic it gets sand from above on the holds.

The Mosquito Slap of New Nowra - an epic wall with some sections of choss, but very well bolted. First 3 bolts of Tiger Tales then traverse left and up marbled wall on excellent rock to first set of anchors. Continue up steep and exposed right side of chossy cave to final pumpy juggy finish as for Tiger Tales. Watch rope length on lower-off!

A long and pumpy euro enduro route straight up the guts of the orange wall. THE crag classic! The start is a weird awkward corner. Watch rope length on the lower-off.

One of the longest routes at 'Nowra' - a real pumper. First three bolts of 'Tiger Tales' then right onto small ledge. Now crimp up slab then trend rightwards up epic steep wall on a bizillion horizontals. 60m rope will NOT reach the ground. Might be easier if you're taller.

The name of this climb came from reading an article about chemicals in skin-care products. A little ripper with some nice pockets! Starts directly below 'Easy Tiger!' from the bottom of the cliff. Up the centre of the pocketed buttress and short wall at top, to anchor just below the ledge. If

continuing up 'Easy Tiger!' to the top of the cliff, the second can be belayed from the large tree on the ledge.

A pleasant outing. Starts from the ledge directly above 'Toxic Beauty'. High step up groove, then left up short orange pockety wall, and over bulge. A good (optional) nut placement is possible on the grey wall above, otherwise head straight up past RB. Mantle onto ledge, and hoick yourself up over the small cave lip to the anchor.

Follow the water worn feature straight up.