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Quickest access is to park on Yurunga Drive opposite Ikara Place. Walk straight into the bush for 25m to a fence which stretches off to the right. Step around the left end of the fence and go straight ahead for another 15m to the top of the descent slot on your right (don't fall into it!!). An awesome but quite easy subterranean scramble down inside the bowels of this amazing slot pops you out beside Wolfgang Donut (the slot is obvious in the first topo below).

Otherwise, if you want an easier but slightly longer trail, park 150m further SE on Yurunga Drive, opposite Gunyuma Cres, and follow the council-marked Grotto Walking Trail down to the bottom then head right (NW).

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
26 ** Wolfgang Donut Sport 10m

One of the early hard routes in 'Nowra'. Up past some hard (big) moves past a few RBs. Bundy Rebolted 03-08-2006, prob a waste of steel and no one will ever climb it.

Start: Start around the corner of the Green Slab, 2m R of the awesome walk-down slot.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989


Thin stuff.

Start: Start on the left hand side of the wall almost on the arete. [The topos for the routes on this wall are a bit of a guess, to give the gist of the wall. Please update the topos if you know what route goes where].

FA: G Hill


Head up right at mid height.

Start: Start as for CC.

FA: G Hill


Start: Start a few meters right of RRRB and climb into that route.

FA: G Hill

22 ** Johny Mantackle Sport 15m

Wanders a bit down low until you pass a small pocket.

FA: G Hill


Bouldery start, up past overlap, then straight up.

FA: G Hill

20 Spurt Reynolds Sport 25m

Up to a vague groove and then through a small headwall.

FA: G Hill

21 ** Jack the Dripper Sport 25m

FA: G Hill


FA: G Hill

21 Abswing Sport 25m

Up, then head right at the flake, then up.

FA: G Hill

23 ** Abtronics Sport 25m

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

FA: G Hill

23 ** Abflex Sport 25m

Awaits a direct start.

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

FA: G Hill

17 Abduct Sport 25m

Start: Start just left of the corner.

FA: G Hill


(AKA ,Lattanzio Corner Crack, Chrome Poisoning.) Recently retrobolted to half height, originally done to full height, trad, taking the right hand line from half height. The obvious corner at the right end of The Green Slab.

FA: John Lattanzio & Austin Legler, 1980

20 * Secret Agent Man Sport 20m

FA: McElroy

20 ** Barbiturate Corner Sport 20m

The first half of Coneheads: climb the awesome pumpy corner crack to the cave. There is no proper anchor, lower off a ringbolt or old carrots (or permadraws if you're lucky), or top it out another 15m on trad.


One of Nowra's finest. Far superior to many other "3 star" routes around here! The start slab often seeps but it's an absolute gem from there to the top. Steep pumpy 15m corner crack to sitdown rest in cave, then launch out onto the awesome overhanging wall for 15m of bouldery brilliance to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn


The hardware up the incredible arête on the R side of the Conehead wall. 30m of 30 degrees!


The greatest Nowra layback there is. Tricky at mid height. Can seep very heavily even when the rest of the crag is dry.

FA: G Hill

FFA: Stuart McElroy, 1990

26 Nervous Breakdown Sport 15m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1989

14 * Pilchard Crack Trad 25m

Has been rebolted? It's 5m R of Chinese Water Torture.

31 R Apotogen Sport 15m

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2002


The mega crack up the side of the mega block (20m opposite Chinese Water Torture). Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

FA: Stuart McElroy, 1990

17 ** Annually Fixated Sport 37m

FA: John Koster, David Brown & Marlene De Martin, 1997


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