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Table of contents

1. Donutland Rightside 25 routes in Area

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.580372, -34.864437


Quickest access is to park on Yurunga Drive opposite Ikara Place. Walk straight into the bush for 25m to a fence which stretches off to the right. Step around the left end of the fence and go straight ahead for another 15m to the top of the descent slot on your right (don't fall into it!!). An awesome but quite easy subterranean scramble down inside the bowels of this amazing slot pops you out beside Wolfgang Donut (the slot is obvious in the first topo below).

Otherwise, if you want an easier but slightly longer trail, park 150m further SE on Yurunga Drive, opposite Gunyuma Cres, and follow the council-marked Grotto Walking Trail down to the bottom then head right (NW).

Ethic: inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Wolfgang Donut

One of the early hard routes in 'Nowra'. Up past some hard (big) moves past a few RBs. Bundy Rebolted 03-08-2006, prob a waste of steel and no one will ever climb it.

Start: Start around the corner of the Green Slab, 2m R of the awesome walk-down slot.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

26 Sport 10m
2 Chopper Chicks From Zombie Town

Thin stuff.

Start: Start on the left hand side of the wall almost on the arete. [The topos for the routes on this wall are a bit of a guess, to give the gist of the wall. Please update the topos if you know what route goes where].

FA: G Hill

19 Sport 14m
3 Roy's Rectal Ring Balm

Head up right at mid height.

Start: Start as for CC.

FA: G Hill

16 Sport 14m
4 Roy's Rectal Ring Balm direct

Start: Start a few meters right of RRRB and climb into that route.

FA: G Hill

20 Sport 25m
5 ** Johny Mantackle

Wanders a bit down low until you pass a small pocket.

FA: G Hill

22 Sport 15m
6 ** Johny Mantackle Right Hand Start

FA: G Hill

22 Sport
7 * Saving Ryan's Privates

Bouldery start, up past overlap, then straight up.

FA: G Hill

20 Sport 15m
8 * Spurt Reynolds

Up to a vague groove and then through a small headwall.

FA: G Hill

20 Sport 25m
9 * Jack the Dripper

FA: G Hill

21 Sport 25m
10 * Dance of the Ballrags

FA: G Hill

22 Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Abswing

Up, then head right at the flake, then up.

FA: G Hill

21 Sport 25m
12 ** Abtronics

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

FA: G Hill

23 Sport 25m
13 ** Abflex

Awaits a direct start.

Start: Start as for 'Abswing'.

FA: G Hill

23 Sport 25m
14 Abduct

Start: Start just left of the corner.

FA: G Hill

17 Sport 25m
15 Chrome Injury / Chrome Poisoning / Lattanzio Corner Crack

(AKA ,Lattanzio Corner Crack, Chrome Poisoning.) Recently retrobolted to half height, originally done to full height, trad, taking the right hand line from half height. The obvious corner at the right end of The Green Slab.

FA: John Lattanzio, Austin Legler, 1980

19 Trad 20m
16 * Secret Agent Man

FA: McElroy

20 Sport 20m
17 Barbiturate Corner

The first half of Coneheads: climb the awesome pumpy corner crack to the cave. There is no proper anchor, lower off a ringbolt or old carrots (or permadraws if you're lucky), or top it out another 15m on trad.

20 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 *** Conehead & The Barbiturates

One of Nowra's finest. Far superior to many other "3 star" routes around here! The start slab often seeps but it's an absolute gem from there to the top. Steep pumpy 15m corner crack to sitdown rest in cave, then launch out onto the awesome overhanging wall for 15m of bouldery brilliance to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn

28 Sport 30m
19 Conehead Arete Project

The hardware up the incredible arête on the R side of the Conehead wall. 30m of 30 degrees!

20 *** Spider Bait / Chinese Water Torture

The greatest Nowra layback there is. Tricky at mid height. Can seep very heavily even when the rest of the crag is dry.

FA: G Hill

FFA: Stuart McElroy, 1990

23 Sport 20m, 10
21 Nervous Breakdown

FA: Steve Bullen, 1989

26 Sport 15m
22 Pilchard Crack

Has been rebolted? It's 5m R of Chinese Water Torture.

14 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Apotogen

The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2002

31 R Sport 15m
24 Caribbean Beat Master

The mega crack up the side of the mega block (20m opposite Chinese Water Torture). Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

FA: Stuart McElroy, 1990

25 Trad 20m
25 * Annually Fixated

FA: John Koster, David Brown, Marlene De Martin, 1997

17 Sport 37m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
14 Pilchard Crack Trad 25m
16 Roy's Rectal Ring Balm Sport 14m
17 Abduct Sport 25m
* Annually Fixated Sport 37m
19 Chopper Chicks From Zombie Town Sport 14m
Chrome Injury Trad 20m
20 Barbiturate Corner Sport 20m
Roy's Rectal Ring Balm direct Sport 25m
* Saving Ryan's Privates Sport 15m
* Secret Agent Man Sport 20m
* Spurt Reynolds Sport 25m
21 Abswing Sport 25m
* Jack the Dripper Sport 25m
22 * Dance of the Ballrags Sport 25m
** Johny Mantackle Sport 15m
** Johny Mantackle Right Hand Start Sport
23 ** Abflex Sport 25m
** Abtronics Sport 25m
*** Spider Bait Sport 20m, 10
25 Caribbean Beat Master Trad 20m
26 Nervous Breakdown Sport 15m
** Wolfgang Donut Sport 10m
28 *** Conehead & The Barbiturates Sport 30m
31 R Apotogen Sport 15m
? Conehead Arete Project Sport