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Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
21 * Stitch And Bitch Sport 10m

Another tight little number that will test your crimp skills. Keep pulling and stop moaning and you will piss up it.

Start: Wall left of the carrot on the walk down track. Right of the chimney.

FA: G Hill, 2000

22 ** Sluts of Trust Sport 12m

This one will keep you on your toes. Good foot work will help. A true classic.

Start: Line just to the right of the carrot bolt in the centre of the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2000


Tricky in places that don't even have places.

Start: On the arete just right of sluts of trust.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20 Vanessa Sport 10m

The left most route on the wall.

Start: Right of VV at arete of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20 Vanessa Variant Sport 10m

Neat slabbing for a few moves then you get right into Vanessa.

Start: Right ten or so meters from TCOR at the clean slab left of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

19 * Stephanie Sport 10m

A cheap route in the venacular of routers as it joins up a lot of surrounding bolts with few of its own.

Start: As for Vanessa

FA: G Hill, 2000

20 * Stephanie Variant Sport 13m

Up Rock Shoxs to the first bulge then head left to the obvious pocket the up to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20 * Rockshox Sport 13m

FA: Rod Young, 1995

19 * Fizzbomb Sport 13m

FA: Rod Young & Chris Gregory, 1995

20 ** Rite Of The Bolts Sport 15m

They get tricky to differentiate in this area so to get the true feel you climb to the right side of the bolts on the lower wall. If it feels way thin and impossibly hard then you have the correct line otherwise you are climbing the 'Fizzbomb' variant start.

Start: At blank wall right of 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2006


FA: G Hill, 2006

21 * Crunchy Chocolate Sport 13m

FA: Nathan Bolton

22 * Jim's Militia Sport 12m

Completes the task of making CC a piking traverse in the middle of the wall. Goes where CC was afraid to step.

Start: Next right of CC.

FA: G Hill

22 ** Suck a Cockatoo Sport 14m

Second right of CC

FA: G Hill

21 ** Escape Velocity Sport 12m

Vgroove right of CC

FA: G Hill


Left of overlap. Graded 18 in Rod Young's guide - I changed it from the misleading 21 - this agrees with other comments.

FA: G Hill

23 * Not The Crack Sport 15m

The crack was always wet so you just couldn't use it. So only about one hold will work in the crack the rest is thin wall climbing. If the crack dries out look out for global warming its coming sooner than we expect, give up your job and go climb all my classics before you die!

Start: Just meters right of the Egg Roll on the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2006

21 ** The Wet Patch Sport 18m

All soughts of dubious technologies were tried to stop the wall from leaking out of the pockets. A good climb but you just have to put the wet patch out of your mind and do it.

Start: Down on the ground at corner left of 'Vermin Arete'.

FA: G Hill

FA: G Hill, 2000

21 * Pavlova's Dog Sport 18m

A great off vertical wall where you can stand on your feet and contemplate why you can't climb it.

Start: Just right of the 'Wet Patch'.

FA: G Hill


These walls are really great climbing. You're mad if you don't give them a go next time you scurry past.

Start: Cracky thing just right of P's Dog.

FA: G Hill

21 * Rodent From Rigel Sport 17m

Best wall in the area bar none!

Start: Just right of Planet 'Pulse'

FA: G Hill, 2006


Vermin From Venus 'Arete' start is so hard you really have to work for the grade. So its better off keeping your finger nails and doing this start instead.

Start: One meter right of the 'Rodent From Rigel'.

FA: G Hill, 2000

22 * Vermin From Venus Sport 25m

FA: Graham Fairburn/bolts by hill

21 * Vermin Arete Sport 20m

Nails hard start. Those dudes could really crimp it in the old days.

Start: Under arete now complete with new ring bolts.

FA: G Hill


Really good climbing that lets you do the possible bits of 'Times Up' and leaves the impossible bits to somebody who can.

Start: At any of the Vermin Starts, take your pick but i suggest the easy one.

FA: G Hill, 2000

27 ** Times Up Sport 20m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

28 ** Married & Mortgaged Sport 20m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

26 ** Sid Vicious Sport 20m

Classic blunt arete. Soft 6 for 'Nowra'.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

18 * Steve Jones Sport 9m

Start a few meters right of Sid Vicious. Up the wall to the single U anchor.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

23 *** Paul Cook Sport 22m

Up Steve Jones then into the original aided line to top. Really good lay aways rave rave rave etc!

FA: G Hill

24 ** Jonny Rotten Sport 22m

Right a couple of meters from 'Steve Jones' at the off set. Good moves at the top where it joins 'Paul Cook'.

Start: The old Giles and Ant aid route now fully operational.

FA: Giles, 2000


Very popular. It is a bit easier (22) if you retreat to the flake on the right at the crux. But, this seems like most obvious thing to do, and going direct seems a little contrived. If you want to rip the dodgy flake off then don't go direct otherwise grit your teeth and go direct for a safer experience.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1989

24 *** Belgian Tourists Sport 21m

24 surely?

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1989


A bit goey at the crux.

FA: G Hill


Ricky put some new bolts in. Classic !! Not too hard for a Nowra 4

FA: Ant Prehn & Alex Simon, 1989

24 *** Zimbabalooba Sport 20m

Possibly the best route on the wall. Not too cruxy, and long enough to get a good pump.

FA: Rod Young, 1998

20 Tin Clouds Trad 25m

Up the corner and flake to the suspended flake. Continue up to jug headwall.

Start: Start just R of 'Access Chimney' at arete.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young & Alex Simon, 1990

24 ** Metal Rain Sport 25m

FA: Rod Young & Phil Pisanu, 1990

24 ** Abdulmajid Sport 22m

FA: Rod Young, 2000

26 ** Berlin Wall Sport 25m

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

17 ** L'Arch Sport 16m

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

FA: Tony Lindley, 2000

20 ** Throbbing Pole Of Love Sport 15m, 7

Balance your way up passing 7 RBs. Finish at the larger U bolt or link into the top of L'arch

Start: Start 2m right of LA

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996


Adds a grade twenty start to Mcstagger or at second bolt you can join Alien Space monster

Start: Off the ground just to left of pillar

FA: Rick Phillips & Jamie Mennie, 2000

15 * McStagger Sport 15m

Up and left to flake and up the obvious pinnacle on the wall. Finish at ledge. 'Extension' is 'TMc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

25 * Tipsy McStagger Sport 20m

start as for ASM. go left up pinnicle (14) to small ledge then follow rings up steep rock with small sharp holds

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

14 * Pie Man Sport 15m

Straight up wall veering slightly right past 4 bolts to lower off as for 'Mc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

22 Slip Slop Snap Sport 25m

FA: Paul Westwood, 1990

19 ** Alien Space Monsters Sport 25m

FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1989


In the cave opposite ASM pinacle.

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

24 ** Sherrif Of Nothing Sport 12m

FA: Rod Young, 1998

22 * Sweet Thing Sport 10m

FA: Rod Young, 1997


FA: Mike Myers, 1990

21 * Bedtime Teddy Sport 8m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

25 *** Lipstick Sport 15m

FA: G Hill

27 Lupus Nervosa Sport 21m

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

25 *** From Here To There Sport 25m

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990


FA: Mark Woodard, 1997


Quite a unique climb with a particularly tricky mantle shelf and a stiff little ending.

Start: A few meters to the right of the wide crack S&MAA

FA: V Hill


FA: Graeme Hill, 1997


Was 3 bolt project

FA: G Hill Fat Mark

19 * Orgasm Addict Sport 8m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

16 Jail Bait Sport 8m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

21 * Love Glove Sport 16m

Start about 2m left of 'Joy Mitten'. Climb the unlikely looking wall to small ledge then continue slightly left and on up the arete.

FA: G Hill

21 ** Joy Boy Sport 18m

Better finish to Joy mitten. Goes all the way!

FA: G Hill

19 Joy Mitten Sport 12m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

Project Sport 30m

FA: Open, 2000


This unit soughts out the new routers from the Look Mum I Gotta Drill Crowd! It and the next route make CC a redundant traverse in the middle of the wall. How i love making your route finding errors into the directissima.

Start: Same as the CC marked on the rock which is about 4 meters right of the 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2000


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