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The Grotto Proper 70 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 16m
  • Style: Mostly Sport
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 2,047

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Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 *** Sluts of Trust

This one will keep you on your toes. Good foot work will help. A true classic.

Start: Line just to the right of the carrot bolt in the centre of the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2000

22
Sport 12m
2 * The Chronicles of Red Dick

Tricky in places that don't even have places.

Start: On the arete just right of sluts of trust.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21
Sport 10m
3 * Stephanie Variant

Up Rock Shoxs to the first bulge then head left to the obvious pocket the up to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20
Sport 13m
4 * Rockshox

FA: Rod Young, 1995

20
Sport 13m
5 Fizzbomb

FA: Rod Young, Chris Gregory, 1995

19
Sport 13m
6 * Rite Of The Bolts

They get tricky to differentiate in this area so to get the true feel you climb to the right side of the bolts on the lower wall. If it feels way thin and impossibly hard then you have the correct line otherwise you are climbing the 'Fizzbomb' variant start.

Start: At blank wall right of 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2006

20
Sport 15m
7 Curly Chickens Direct

FA: G Hill, 2006

20
Unknown 15m
8 * Crunchy Chocolate

FA: Nathan Bolton,

21
Sport 13m
9 * Not The Crack

The crack was always wet so you just couldn't use it. So only about one hold will work in the crack the rest is thin wall climbing. If the crack dries out look out for global warming its coming sooner than we expect, give up your job and go climb all my classics before you die!

Start: Just meters right of the Egg Roll on the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2006

23
Sport 15m
10 * The Wet Patch

FA: G Hill,

21
Unknown 18m
11 * Pavlova's Dog

A great off vertical wall where you can stand on your feet and contemplate why you can't climb it.

Start: Just right of the 'Wet Patch'.

FA: G Hill,

21
Sport 18m
12 * Love From The Planet Pulse

These walls are really great climbing. You're mad if you don't give them a go next time you scurry past.

Start: Cracky thing just right of P's Dog.

FA: G Hill,

18
Sport 20m
13 ** Rodent From Rigel

Best wall in the area bar none!

Start: Just right of Planet 'Pulse'

FA: G Hill, 2006

21
Sport 17m
14 * Vermin From Venus

FA: Graham Fairburn/bolts by hill,

22
Unknown 25m
15 ** Vermin Arete

Nails hard start. Those dudes could really crimp it in the old days.

Start: Under arete now complete with new ring bolts.

FA: G Hill,

21
Sport 20m
16 ** Times Up

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

27
Sport 20m
17 ** Married & Mortgaged

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

28
Sport 20m
18 ** Sid Vicious

Classic blunt arete. Soft 6 for 'Nowra'.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

26
Sport 20m
19 * Steve Jones

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

18
Sport 9m
20 *** Paul Cook

Up Steve Jones then into the original aided line to top. Really good lay aways rave rave rave etc!

FA: G Hill,

23
Sport 22m
21 *** Amazon Queens In the Avocado Jungles Of Death

Very popular. It is a bit easier (22) if you retreat to the flake on the right at the crux. But, this seems like most obvious thing to do, and going direct seems a little contrived. If you want to rip the dodgy flake off then don't go direct otherwise grit your teeth and go direct for a safer experience.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1989

23
Sport 20m
22 *** Amazon Queens Right Hand (flake) Variant
22
Sport 20m
23 *** Belgian Tourists

24 surely?

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1989

24
Sport 21m
24 ** Going The Tonk With Zena

A bit goey at the crux.

FA: G Hill,

25
Sport 20m
25 *** How Much Can A Koala Bear?

Ricky put some new bolts in. Classic !! Not too hard for a Nowra 4

FA: Ant Prehn, Alex Simon, 1989

24
Sport 25m
26 *** Zimbabalooba

Possibly the best route on the wall. Not too cruxy, and long enough to get a good pump.

FA: Rod Young, 1998

24
Sport 20m
27 Tin Clouds

Up the corner and flake to the suspended flake. Continue up to jug headwall.

Start: Start just R of 'Access Chimney' at arete.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Alex Simon, 1990

20
Trad 25m
28 ** Metal Rain

FA: Rod Young, Phil Pisanu, 1990

24
Sport 25m
29 * Abdulmajid

FA: Rod Young, 2000

24
Sport 22m
30 ** Berlin Wall

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

26
Sport 25m
31 * L'Arch

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

FA: Tony Lindley, 2000

17
Sport 16m
32 * Throbbing Pole Of Love

Balance your way up passing 7 RBs.

Start: Start 2m right of LA

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

20
Sport 15m , 7
33 McStagger

Up and left to flake and up the obvious pinnacle on the wall. Finish at ledge. 'Extension' is 'TMc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

15
Sport 15m
34 ** Tipsy McStagger

start as for ASM. go left up pinnicle (14) to small ledge then follow rings up steep rock with small sharp holds

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

25
Sport 20m
35 Pie Man

Straight up wall veering slightly right past 4 bolts to lower off as for 'Mc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

14
Sport 15m
36 Slip Slop Snap

FA: Paul Westwood, 1990

22
Sport 25m
37 *** Alien Space Monsters

FA: Rod Young, Sue Young, 1989

19
Sport 25m
38 ** Sherrif Of Nothing

FA: Rod Young, 1998

24
Sport 12m
39 ** Sweet Thing

FA: Rod Young, 1997

22
Sport 10m
40 ** Eat My Spinning Blades Of Steel, Mother....er Lefthand Variant / Eat My Spinning Blades Of Steel, Motherfucker Lefthand Variant

FA: Garth Miller, 1990

23
Sport 10m
41 ** Spinning Blades of Steel / Eat My Spinning Blades Of Steel, Motherfucker

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

20
Sport 9m
42 * Bedtime Teddy

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

21
Sport 8m
43 *** Lipstick

FA: G Hill,

25
Sport 15m
44 Lupus Nervosa

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

27
Sport 21m
45 From Here To There

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1990

25
Sport 25m
46 Snot and Misery At Arapiles

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

18
Sport 28m
47 ** Cacahouete In The Sky

Quite a unique climb with a particularly tricky mantle shelf and a stiff little ending.

Start: A few meters to the right of the wide crack S&MAA

FA: V Hill,

24
Sport 15m
48 ** Blow Job Queens From Hell

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

24
Sport 15m
49 * Blaze Your Dead Hommies

Was 3 bolt project

FA: G Hill Fat Mark,

22
Sport 7m
50 ** Orgasm Addict

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

19
Sport 8m
51 Jail Bait

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

16
Sport 8m
52 * Love Glove

Can't remeber much about this route does it branch off 'Joy Mitten' and go up the left of the scoop on the arete?

Start: 'Stuffed' if i can remeber thers not a lot of space between the two climbs. Probably at 'Joy Mitten'

FA: G Hill,

21
Sport 16m
53 ** Joy Boy

Better finish to Joy mitten. Goes all the way!

FA: G Hill,

21
Sport 18m
54 ** Joy Mitten

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

19
Sport 12m
55 Vermin From Venus Different Start
21
Unknown 25m
56 * Jim's Militia

Completes the task of making CC a piking traverse in the middle of the wall. Goes where CC was afraid to step.

Start: Next right of CC.

FA: G Hill,

22
Sport 12m
57 ** Suck a Cockatoo

Second right of CC

FA: G Hill,

22
Sport 14m
58 * Escape Velocity

Vgroove right of CC

FA: G Hill,

21
Sport 12m
59 ** Pearced Anal Egg Roll

Left of overlap

FA: G Hill,

21
Sport 14m
60 * Baby Coneheads

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

21
Sport 8m
61 Project

FA: Open, 2000

Sport 30m
62 *** Vermin From Venus Arete Variant Variant

Really good climbing that lets you do the possible bits of 'Times Up' and leaves the impossible bits to somebody who can.

Start: At any of the Vermin Starts, take your pick but i suggest the easy one.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21
Sport 14m
63 * Curly Chickens Direct Finish

This unit soughts out the new routers from the Look Mum I Gotta Drill Crowd! It and the next route make CC a redundant traverse in the middle of the wall. How i love making your route finding errors into the directissima.

Start: Same as the CC marked on the rock which is about 4 meters right of the 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21
Sport 12m
64 ** Jonny Rotten

Right a couple of meters from 'Steve Jones' at the off set. Good moves at the top where it joins 'Paul Cook'.

Start: The old Giles and Ant aid route now fully operational.

FA: Giles, 2000

24
Sport 22m
65 Wet Patch

All soughts of dubious technologies were tried to stop the wall from leaking out of the pockets. A good climb but you just have to put the wet patch out of your mind and do it.

Start: Down on the ground at corner left of 'Vermin Arete'.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21
Sport 15m
66 * Stephanie

A cheap route in the venacular of routers as it joins up a lot of surrounding bolts with few of its own.

Start: As for Vanessa

FA: G Hill, 2000

19
Sport 10m
67 * Stitch And Bitch

Another tight little number that will test your crimp skills. Keep pulling and stop moaning and you will piss up it.

Start: Wall left of the carrot on the walk down track. Right of the chimney.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21
Sport 10m
68 * Vermin From Venus Variant

Vermin From Venus 'Arete' start is so hard you really have to work for the grade. So its better off keeping your finger nails and doing this start instead.

Start: One meter right of the 'Rodent From Rigel'.

FA: G Hill, 2000

21
Sport 15m
69 Vanessa Variant

Neat slabbing for a few moves then you get right into Vanessa.

Start: Right ten or so meters from TCOR at the clean slab left of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20
Sport 10m
70 Vanessa

The left most route on the wall.

Start: Right of VV at arete of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20
Sport 10m