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Description

First area from the car park. Often packed because of the great selection of low to mid range routes.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 ★ Touchwood Sport 6m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

2
18 ★ Hard Knee Sport 7m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

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3
16 ★ Puppy Sport 7m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

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4
14 ★ Pete's Two Bob Sport 6m

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

FA: Peter Van Klooster, 1999

5
14 Tony Sport 8m, 3

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

FA: Sue Young, 1999

6
19 ★ Janine Sport 9m

FA: Rod Young, 1999

7
18 ★ Lefty Sport 10m

FA: Pat Thompson, 1991

8
16 Spokeye Sport 7m

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

9
23 Nimby Sport 11m

The first route to the right of the descent gully (facing the cliff). Originally a high boulder problem, then retrobolted. Somewhat desperate (for the first few moves).

FA: Mike Law, 1995

10
21 ★ Alex The Kidd Sport 12m

FA: Ant Prehn & Alex Simon, 1990

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11
24 ★ Sonic Hedgehog Sport 14m

An improbable looking blank wall. Don't break that pebble!

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990

12
20 ★★ Layoff Sport 15m, 7

Start two metres left of SPK ,moving up to follow the 5 RB's to anchor. Single U bolt lower off.

Stiff at grade 20.

FA: Venus Kondos, 1995

13
18 ★★ Samurai Pizza Catz Sport 15m

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury & Trudy Bretherton, 1990

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14
17 ★ Woderwick Sport 15m

Start left of the cave as per BD.

FA: Sue Young, 1994

15
15 ★ Big Dreams Sport 15m

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

FA: Sue Young, 2000

16
11 ★ Lucifer Sport 15m

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1994

17
18 ★ Velux Sport 15m

Left wall of the big chimney. Up to low anchor. Funky.

FA: Mikl Law, 1993

18
19 ★★ Very Blunt Sport 20m

Links start of Blunt into the finish of Velux, at least you can finish at the top of the cliff!

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19
19 ★ Blunt Sport 15m

Climb up arete left of SLH through mini cave to same anchors as SLH. 4 Rings to top.

FA: Ness

20
19 ★ Euphoria Sport 15m

The route left of Santas Little Helper. Up through steep face moves to the fin shaped hold and continue straight up.

FA: Nathan Bolton

21
15 ★★ Santa's Little Helper Sport 15m, 6

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

FA: Sue Young, 1997

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22
17 ★★ Butt Head Sport 15m, 7

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

FA: Rod Young, 1994

23
16 ★★ Barbie Twins Sport 17m, 7

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

FA: Rod Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991

24
20 ★★ Beavis Sport 15m, 6

Thin and balancy slab wall right of Barbie Twins.

FA: Rod Young, 1994

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25
17 ★★ Hang On Sport 15m, 6

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

FA: Garth Miller

26
18 ★ Hold On Sport 15m

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

FA: Rickster, Bundy, Big G & Trad dad, 17 Jul 2010

27
17 ★ New Nowra is Old News Sport 15m

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, Rick Phillips, Big G & Jasper (Rick's Dog), 17 Jul 2010

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28
17 ★ Terrapin Tricks Sport 15m

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

FA: Rod Young, Jul 2010

29
15 ★ Hare Of The Tortoise / Turtle 2 Sport 15m

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

FA: Rod Young, 2010

30
14 ★★ Turtle Wall Sport 17m

Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

FA: Rod Young

31
17 ★ Velvetine Sport 14m

Straight up as for Turtle wall, but in the cave go onto the right ledge and out right to the 2nd (or 3rd) ring bolt.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

32
17 Slim Pig Games Sport 17m

FA: Wonderdog, 2003

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33
17 ★★ Mad Hatter Sport 20m

FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1999

34
21 ★★ Maddest Hatter Sport 8m

FA: Rod Young, 1999

35
25 ★★★ Cowboy Junkies Sport 15m

A total 'Nowra' classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a 'bit' of exposure.

Start: This route starts in the exposed cave above the mini wall, under the obvious roof.

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990

36
24 ★★ Potato Junkies Sport 10m, 6

Start as for CJ but continue straight out of roof, exit out over roof lip and up left to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

37
27 ★★★ Ten Gallon Rehab Sport 25m, 10

Extension of 'Cowboy Junkies' following lip of roof to arete, then up to finish at 'Mad Hatter' anchors.

38
14 Butt Rock Trad 17m

Up chimney tending left under the little roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'.

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