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First area from the car park. Often packed because of the great selection of low to mid range routes.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

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Grade Route

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

FA: Peter Van Klooster, 1999

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

FA: Sue Young, 1999

FA: Rod Young, 1999

FA: Pat Thompson, 1991

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

The first route to the right of the descent gully (facing the cliff). Originally a high boulder problem, then retrobolted. Somewhat desperate (for the first few moves).

FA: Mike Law, 1995

FA: Ant Prehn & Alex Simon, 1990

An improbable looking blank wall. Don't break that pebble!

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990

Start two metres left of SPK ,moving up to follow the 5 RB's to anchor. Single U bolt lower off.

Stiff at grade 20.

FA: Venus Kondos, 1995

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury & Trudy Bretherton, 1990

Start left of the cave as per BD.

FA: Sue Young, 1994

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

FA: Sue Young, 2000

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1994

Left wall of the big chimney. Up to low anchor. Funky.

FA: Mikl Law, 1993

Links start of Blunt into the finish of Velux, at least you can finish at the top of the cliff!

Climb up arete left of SLH through mini cave to same anchors as SLH. 4 Rings to top.

FA: Ness

The route left of Santas Little Helper. Up through steep face moves to the fin shaped hold and continue straight up.

FA: Nathan Bolton

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

FA: Sue Young, 1997

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

FA: Rod Young, 1994

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

FA: Rod Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991

Thin and balancy slab wall right of Barbie Twins.

FA: Rod Young, 1994

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

FA: Garth Miller

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

FA: Rickster, Bundy, Big G & Trad dad, 17 Jul 2010

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

FA: Jason Lammers, Rick Phillips, Big G & Jasper (Rick's Dog), 17 Jul 2010

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

FA: Rod Young, Jul 2010

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

FA: Rod Young, 2010

Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

FA: Rod Young

Straight up as for Turtle wall, but in the cave go onto the right ledge and out right to the 2nd (or 3rd) ring bolt.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

FA: Wonderdog, 2003

FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1999

FA: Rod Young, 1999

A total 'Nowra' classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a 'bit' of exposure.

Start: This route starts in the exposed cave above the mini wall, under the obvious roof.

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990

Start as for CJ but continue straight out of roof, exit out over roof lip and up left to anchors.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

Extension of 'Cowboy Junkies' following lip of roof to arete, then up to finish at 'Mad Hatter' anchors.

Up chimney tending left under the little roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'.


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