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Description

A lovely black wall with a big cave in the middle of it. Contains a number of good route.

© (secretary)

Approach

Just to the left of butterfly wall, or just right aroudn the corner from the Alley wall.

© (secretary)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 Iggy Plop Sport 13m

Choss

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 2000

2

Tricky start just right of arête. Up with a couple of committing moves to jugs. New bolts, new grade 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

3
23 ** Skippy The Bush Slut Sport 10m

A couple of random carrots that lead to no where.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1991

5
24 ** BushDoof Sport 20m

Up small corner for 3 bolts (take care clipping the 2nd) to rooflet. Over the rooflet on small holds. Continue up on easier ground to some funky moves on the arete left of FM.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

6
22 ** Freak Magnet Sport 20m, 12

Very thin start (careful at the third clip) consistent climbing up and through cave area, second crux is committing. Enjoy!!!!

FA: Rod Young, 1994

7
19 *** Vanderholics Sport 25m

Beaut sustained climbing on lovely holds.

Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds.

Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1999

8
18 Gina Hardface Sport 15m

FA: Derek Morton, 1997

9
22 * David Blowfly Sport 11m
10
22 One Less Bitch Unknown 10m
11
18 Cracker Jack Trad 20m

Major crack line splitting the face starting just right of 'Vanderholics' - a great trad route. Up crack for 10m to horizontal break, traverse right across 'Gina Hardface' and continue up corner crack above (ignoring the bolts). Rap off rings above 'Gina Hardface'. Medium to large cams.