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Description

When it comes to spooge, the Pocketed Wall is like the canary in the coalmine. Conditions here die a rapid spoogy death at the slightest hint of humidity, when other crags nearby remain perfectly climbable. As a result, either (a) you'll become a complete conditions snob and will bail the instant the dewpoint is over 6 degrees, or (b) you'll blithely persist ... and get massively spanked. But on the upside, the routes are great on a cool crisp day, and the Hustler roof routes are completely rainproof and spooge-proof so you can always get on those.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Hard an pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic nowra.

FA: Steve Barry, 1992

2
22 * Meaty Mesmo Sport 10m

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

3
24 ** Hide The Salami Sport 10m

From the ledge, pull onto the main face for a few crimpy moves then up past the slopey pockets to an exciting undercling finish!

Start: Start on foot of pinnacle. 2m right of MTHF.

Stick-clip first bolt.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

4
25 ** With Pigs Blood Sport 15m

FA: John Passlow, 1992

5
24 ** Mesmo Butts Sport 10m, 5

Follow line of 5 new rings. Still the same route. Hard and greasy. Might be better to join Hide the Salami at its last bolt and then up. This keeps you out of the gaping gash.....

FA: G Hill

6
25 ** Butts Of Beef Sport 10m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

7
27 ** Beef Cake Sport 20m, 11

Clip the anchor for BOB then head out through the slightly sandy roof to an impressive arete. Blast up this and you're all done!

Start: Start as for BOB

FA: Simon Bell, 1998

8
26 ** Chuck Steak Sport 10m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

9
25 ** Fine Cuts Sport 10m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

10
17 ** Nobody Told Me Trad 10m

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

11
21 Lick The Pig Sport 10m

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

12
24 We Do Okay Sport 10m, 4

Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

13
21 * Je Baise Ma Fraigne Sport 21m

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

14
22 *** Electro Rooter Sport 12m

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

15

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.

FA: Paul Meharg, 2006

16
26 ** Muscle Hustler Sport 35m

The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are.

Start: Start on the very right hand side of the pocket wall. Now with permadraws.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1991

17
24 ** The Hustler Sport 28m

Now with permadraws in the roof. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

18
26 * Wank Skunk Sport 6m

FA: Paul Westwood, 1993

19
20 * Fuck Art, Lets Dance Sport 15m

Same start as Peacocks after second ring follow fixed brackets heading left. Anchors and abseil same as Peacocks.

FA: Boyd Robinson, 2007

20
21 ** Peacocks Sport 15m

This is a rap-in route left of Picture This with new rap-in anchors to semi-hanging belay. If you are worried about run-outs then pack a #1 Wild Country friend and a blue zero. AWESOME Route!!!!

FA: Marcus Loane and Boydo, 2007

21
19 * Picture This Sport 12m

Optional friend.

FA: Boyd Robertson, 1993

22

FA: Ant Prehn, 1991

23
15 * Cerin's Debut Sport 25m

Caution! Old homemade hangers.

FA: Roy Fryer, Cerin McMillan, Bob McMillan, 1996

24

FA: Roy Fryer, Bob McMillan, 1998

25
24 * Beef Curtains Sport 10m