The Pocketed Wall


When it comes to spooge, the Pocketed Wall is like the canary in the coalmine. Conditions here die a rapid spoogy death at the slightest hint of humidity, when other crags nearby remain perfectly climbable. As a result, either (a) you'll become a complete conditions snob and will bail the instant the dewpoint is over 6 degrees, or (b) you'll blithely persist ... and get massively spanked. But on the upside, the routes are great on a cool crisp day, and the Hustler roof routes are completely rainproof and spooge-proof so you can always get on those.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

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Grade Route

Hard and pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic Nowra.

FA: Steve Barry, 1992

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

From the ledge, pull onto the main face for a few crimpy moves then up past the slopey pockets to an exciting undercling finish!

Start: Start on foot of pinnacle. 2m right of MTHF.

Stick-clip first bolt.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

FA: John Passlow, 1992

Start in front of the dead tree. Hard moves from the get go, keep crimping till the half way mark where you can either head left or right both at 24. Right is called (Beef Curtains) Left finishes up Hide the Salami.

FA: G Hill

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

Clip the anchor for BOB then head out through the slightly sandy roof to an impressive arete. Blast up this and you're all done!

Start: Start as for BOB

FA: Simon Bell, 1998

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.

FA: Paul Meharg, 2006

Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1991

Now with permadraws from the roof to the top. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

FA: Paul Westwood, 1993

Same start as Peacocks after second ring follow fixed brackets heading left. Anchors and abseil same as Peacocks.

FA: Boyd Robinson, 2007

This is a rap-in route left of Picture This with new rap-in anchors to semi-hanging belay. If you are worried about run-outs then pack a #1 Wild Country friend and a blue zero. AWESOME Route!!!!

FA: Marcus Loane & Boydo, 2007

Optional friend.

FA: Boyd Robertson, 1993

FA: Ant Prehn, 1991

Caution! Old homemade hangers.

FA: Roy Fryer, Cerin McMillan & Bob McMillan, 1996

FA: Roy Fryer & Bob McMillan, 1998

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