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The Pocketed Wall 25 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 15m
  • Style: Mostly Sport
  • Ascents: 1,470

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Description:

When it comes to spooge, the Pocketed Wall is like the canary in the coalmine. Conditions here die a rapid spoogy death at the slightest hint of humidity, when other crags nearby remain perfectly climbable. As a result, either (a) you'll become a complete conditions snob and will bail the instant the dewpoint is over 6 degrees, or (b) you'll blithely persist ... and get massively spanked. But on the upside, the routes are great on a cool crisp day, and the Hustler roof routes are completely rainproof and spooge-proof so you can always get on those.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 ** Murdoch the Horse Fucker

Hard an pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic nowra.

FA: Steve Barry, 1992

22
Sport 12m
2 * Meaty Mesmo

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

22
Sport 10m
3 ** Hide The Salami

From the ledge, pull onto the main face for a few crimpy moves then up past the slopey pockets to an exciting undercling finish!

Start: Start on foot of pinnacle. 2m right of MTHF.

Stick-clip first bolt.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992

24
Sport 10m
4 ** With Pigs Blood

FA: John Passlow, 1992

25
Sport 15m
5 ** Mesmo Butts

Follow line of 5 new rings. Still the same route. Hard and greasy. Might be better to join Hide the Salami at its last bolt and then up. This keeps you out of the gaping gash.....

FA: G Hill,

24
Sport 10m , 5
6 *** Butts Of Beef

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

25
Sport 10m
7 ** Beef Cake

Clip the anchor for BOB then head out through the slightly sandy roof to an impressive arete. Blast up this and you're all done!

Start: Start as for BOB

FA: Simon Bell, 1998

27
Sport 20m , 11
8 ** Chuck Steak

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

26
Sport 10m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
9 ** Fine Cuts

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

25
Sport 10m
10 ** Nobody Told Me

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

17
Trad 10m
11 Lick The Pig

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

21
Sport 10m
12 We Do Okay

Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1990

24
Sport 10m , 4
13 * Je Baise Ma Fraigne

Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

20
Sport 21m
14 *** Electro Rooter

Rebolted 08-07-2006.

FA: Graeme Hill, Veronique Hill, 1990

22
Sport 12m
15 * Hustle The Love Muscle

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.

FA: Paul Meharg, 2006

25
Sport 24m
16 *** Muscle Hustler

The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are.

Start: Start on the very right hand side of the pocket wall. Now with permadraws.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1991

26
Sport 35m
17 ** The Hustler

Now with permadraws in the roof. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected.

FA: Rod Young, 1999

24
Sport 28m
18 * Wank Skunk

FA: Paul Westwood, 1993

26
Sport 6m
19 * Fuck Art, Lets Dance

Same start as Peacocks after second ring follow fixed brackets heading left. Anchors and abseil same as Peacocks.

FA: Boyd Robinson, 2007

20
Sport 15m
20 ** Peacocks

This is a rap-in route left of Picture This with new rap-in anchors to semi-hanging belay. If you are worried about run-outs then pack a #1 Wild Country friend and a blue zero. AWESOME Route!!!!

FA: Marcus Loane and Boydo, 2007

21
Sport 15m
21 * Picture This

Optional friend.

FA: Boyd Robertson, 1993

19
Sport 12m
22 * Muscle Hustler 2nd pitch

FA: Ant Prehn, 1991

23
Sport 15m
23 * Cerin's Debut

Caution! Old homemade hangers.

FA: Roy Fryer, Cerin McMillan, Bob McMillan, 1996

15
Sport 25m
24 * Traditional Evolution

FA: Roy Fryer, Bob McMillan, 1998

20
Sport 25m
25 * Beef Curtains
24
Sport 10m