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Description

A great looking wall with a variety of good routes.

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Approach

30m past the grease cave - this is pretty much the last area before the wastelands.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

FA: Graeme Hill, 1991

2
21 ** Broken And Barbed Sport 18m

FA: Dave Filan, David Haines, 1989

3
23 * Evil Bumfukbabe Sport 10m

Hard move guards the anchors. Rebolted 2012

FA: Karl Schultz, 1993

4
25 ** Instant Death Sport 20m

Dangerous protection.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1991

5
16 Roger That Trad 12m

The obvious sandy corner crack left of NASAS. Natural gear. use anchors to left to lower off.

FA: David O'Donnell , Ryan Kelly, 2004

6

Start: Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt.

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1992

7
16 Petit Miam Sport 8m

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1992

8
27 ** The Big Shlong Sport 20m

FA: George Fieg, 1993

9
24 ** The Big Kahoona Sport 20m

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992

10
26 ** The Big Wank Sport 20m

FA: Andrew Bull, 1996

11
22 * Jugzilla pitch 1 Sport 10m

Up wall to belay stance below roof.

Start: Start 5m right of 'PM'

FA: M Law

12
27 ** Jugzilla Sport 22m

From the belay head diagonally out left through the roof to a break. Traverse back right a little and up final head wall.

Start: Start at the belay above 'JP1'.

FA: Mike Law, 2003

13
26 ** Funkenstein Sport 25m

Straight out roof, traverse left to rest then nice face climbing to finish with hands on top of cliff.

Start: Start as for 'J'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

14
23 *** Speed Boat Wankers Sport 25m

FA: Tony Barton, Andrew Bull, 1991

15
21 ** Shifting Sands Sport 15m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

16
21 *** A Day at the Beach Sport 15m

FA: Steve Bullen, 1992

17
26 * A Day with the Beast Sport 30m

Having climbed 'ADATB' traverse left across the lip of the roof all the way to the far end. CAUTION: Be careful when getting lowered that the rope is long enough to get you back to the ground.

Start: Start as for 'ADATB'.

FA: M Law

18
21 Vague Flake Sport 15m

Climb the funky flakes left of kicking dogs balls. Rebolted and extended 23/6/12

FA: Unknown, 2000

19
17 Kicking Dogs Balls Sport 8m

FA: Veronique Hill, Graeme Hill, 1992

20
24 ** Silly Putty Sport 20m

FA: Mike Law, 1995

21
23 ** Black Beddy Sport 8m

Clip first bolt on 'Betty Blue' and head left. Crank up on the crimpers to the final throw making sure to take a few whips for the camera along the way!

Start: Start at 'Betty Blue'

FA: Steve Bullen, 1991

22
24 *** Betty Blue Sport 20m

A very appealing wall. One of the most enjoyable routes at its grade in 'Nowra'.

Start: Start a few meters right of 'Black Beddy'.

FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury, 1991

23
25 ** Tickled Pink Sport 10m

Straight up the groove, then slightly left and up to a great jug rest. Recover and fire out the airy crux.

Start: Start 2m left of SL at slight groove New anchour 23/6/2012

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992

24

Extension of 'TP'.

FA: Mitch Warren

25
23 *** Still Life Sport 10m

Classic 'Nowra' arete - which is hard and pumpy.

Start: Start at the obvious arete to the right of 'TP'. Some people do an easier start on the face a few metres left of the arete proper.

FA: Giles Bradbury, Ant Prehn, 1990

26

An absolute ripper of a climb and totally different to the typical 'Nowra' power mutant hard stuff.

Start: Start on ledge above 'SL'

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1992

27

Climb the black slab around the arete right of 'SL'

FA: L Wishart

28
18 Exfoliator Sport 10m

4 RB's to lower off.

Start: Wall 5m right of 'SL'

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

29
19 * Girl Finger Sport 10m

Start: Start 3m right of 'E'.

FA: J.Tam, 2004