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Table of contents

1. The Wastelands 16 routes in Area

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.574456, -34.873047

Ethic: inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Body Abuse

FA: Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith, Stewart Wyithe, 1991

22 Trad 8m
2 Screaming Grahams

FA: Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith, 1991

21 Sport 20m
3 Ryobicide

FBs up the left hand arete.

FA: Rod Young, 1991

23 Sport 20m
4 Moshpit

4m right of R. Up, then back lefwards and up to anchors.

FA: Rod Young

17 Sport 15m
5 * Lucy Can't Dance

Takes the line up the middle of a 20m wide, slabby pillar. Starts climbing the lefthand flakes of a cave. Start is same as MoshPit, but straight up.

FA: Rod Young

18 Sport 22m
6 * Dancing In The Garden

The blunt RH arete

FA: Sue Young, 1991

18 Sport 22m
7 Breaka My Pants

A little sandy and mossy will improve with ascents.

Start: Just right from DITG on wall.

FA: G Hill, 2000

20 Sport 15m
8 Raiders Of The Lost Arse

A classic! What more can be said. As you may be aware to attempt this breath taking technical masterpiece you will need to climb solid 20.

Start: Next right line of bolts.

FA: G Hill

20 Sport 12m
9 Lesbian Vibrator Bitches

Needs none. Where do i get these names from. Climb it for the calssic name.

Start: To the right of ROTLA.

FA: G Hill

20 Sport 10m
10 Roger the Coger

Left of RtD. Great !

FA: Fat Mark

FA: F Mark, 2000

19 to 20 Sport 10m
11 Roger the Doger

In the gully right of RtC

FA: Fat Mark

FA: F Mark, 2000

20 Sport 10m
12 Alien Probe

The orginal climb here. Start at the black streak under the cave up high. Move right to the unlikely face climbing on the orange streak, up this to anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

FA: Graham Hill, 1998

23 Sport 15m, 6
13 ** Buba Cool

Hidden gem, up the back of the wastelands. Start at the little overlap 3m right of Alien Probe. Up trending left to blind seam/crack then straight up to anchors. Hard to put the draw on the 3rd bolt. Otherwise Excellent.

FA: Veronique Hill

FA: Veronique Hill

22 Sport 15m, 5
14 Short Memory

15m right of BC at right hand end of this wall

FA: Hill

20 Sport 6m
15 Sticky Beak

R of SM. Hard Start

FA: Hill

20 Sport 6m
16 Oofti

The most right route on the wall. Tricky moves, but eases off at 2nd bolt.

FA: Hill

20 Sport 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
17 Moshpit Sport 15m
18 * Dancing In The Garden Sport 22m
* Lucy Can't Dance Sport 22m
19 to 20 Roger the Coger Sport 10m
20 Breaka My Pants Sport 15m
Lesbian Vibrator Bitches Sport 10m
Oofti Sport 6m
Raiders Of The Lost Arse Sport 12m
Roger the Doger Sport 10m
Short Memory Sport 6m
Sticky Beak Sport 6m
21 Screaming Grahams Sport 20m
22 Body Abuse Trad 8m
** Buba Cool Sport 15m, 5
23 Alien Probe Sport 15m, 6
Ryobicide Sport 20m