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Approach:© (Ashy)

Balrog Wall is located 25m to the right of 'The Block' Environs.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Weapons Of Mass Destruction

Although not hard this climb has a couple of tricky sections that are not initially obvious and require some thought to overcome. At the 6th RB move left and find the hidden pocket around the arête which allows you to get through what appears to be an impossibly blank section. It's still not over as the last move to clip the anchors is no give away. 7RB's to 2RB anchor

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2005

18
Sport 16m
2 Old Timer's Disease

Start as for 'Weapons Of Mass Destruction' but after the 1st couple of moves once you can reach the block, traverse right before continuing up the wall. Though the rock on the bottom section is not great the climbing on the upper half is good and quite thought provoking. 7RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Tony Lindley, 2002

18
Sport 16m
3 * The Balrog

Good technical climbing with a couple of hard moves and a tricky slab finish. Note that 'The Balrog' and 'Shelob' use the same holds towards the finish. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

20
Sport 16m
4 Shelob

6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: John Koster,

20
Sport 16m
5 Wasp welts at one o'clock

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: 3rd Climb from the right starts on blunt arete. Lots of jugs down low enjoy the rest at halfway, then suck it up for the techo slab at top

FA: Jamie Mennie, 2000

Sport 16m
6 A world gone mad

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: Left hand end of cave. Hard start and keep cranking for the first three bolts till it eases to slab moves at top

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

23
Sport 16m
7 Rule Brittania

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: Right hand end of cave. 'Steep' and juggy to start followed by hard slab cruxes at top

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2000

Sport 16m