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Approach

Balrog Wall is located 25m to the right of 'The Block' Environs.

© (Ashy)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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1

Although not hard this climb has a couple of tricky sections that are not initially obvious and require some thought to overcome. At the 6th RB move left and find the hidden pocket around the arête which allows you to get through what appears to be an impossibly blank section. It's still not over as the last move to clip the anchors is no give away. 7RB's to 2RB anchor

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2005

2
18 Old Timer's Disease Sport 16m

Start as for 'Weapons Of Mass Destruction' but after the 1st couple of moves once you can reach the block, traverse right before continuing up the wall. Though the rock on the bottom section is not great the climbing on the upper half is good and quite thought provoking. 7RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Tony Lindley, 2002

3
20 * The Balrog Sport 16m

Good technical climbing with a couple of hard moves and a tricky slab finish. Note that 'The Balrog' and 'Shelob' use the same holds towards the finish. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

4
20 Shelob Sport 16m

6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: John Koster

5

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: 3rd Climb from the right starts on blunt arete. Lots of jugs down low enjoy the rest at halfway, then suck it up for the techo slab at top

FA: Jamie Mennie, 2000

6
23 A world gone mad Sport 16m

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: Left hand end of cave. Hard start and keep cranking for the first three bolts till it eases to slab moves at top

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

7
Rule Brittania Sport 16m

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: Right hand end of cave. 'Steep' and juggy to start followed by hard slab cruxes at top

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2000