A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Thompson's Sunrise 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.578773, -34.872330

Description:

Interesting

Approach:

On the dirt access road to Thompsons Point - once you see the major overhead power lines (2 sets), park in the first car park on your right. Take the defined walking track to the lookout (steel wire mesh edged, just past the picnic table) then head east to the first descent gully

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project (Loop)

Climb 'Layback' but instead of mantling to finish , reverse climb 'The Edge'. To make up for not having to clip any anchors, to successfully tick this climb you must dismount the block and place both feet on the ground in an orderly fashion. Jumping off and rolling down the hill does not count. 7RB's.

Sport 11m

1.1. Lookout Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Approach:© (Ashy)

Lookout Wall is located directly below the Thompson's Point Reserve 'Lookout' and is accessed by scrambling down the gully 10m right (east) of the lookout.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Melodrama

A little runout to start but then easy climbing. If you are feeling strong you can finish with a long hard move to pull up level with the anchors (add a couple of grades) or you can just clip the anchors from below.

2RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 20m down and right (west) of the bottom of the 'Lookout' 'Access' 'Gully' on the rock shelf directly below the lookout and the well brushed streak.

FA: Jason Atkinson / Lee Walker, 2000

17Sport 10m
2 No Drama

Delicate climbing with a thought provoking crux at mid height.

3RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Lee Walker / Jason Atkinson, 2000

18Sport 15m
3 Drama Lama (links No Drama into Melodrama)

FA: J.A

17Sport 9m
4 Blister In The Sun

A hard move up the initial face is followed by an interesting slab towards the top. Finish direct or chicken out and take the easy option by moving left. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Jason Atkinson / Lee Walker, 2000

16Sport 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 The Furburger

Climb the crack right of 'Blister In The Sun' and finish at the anchors of 'Something For Kate'.

FA: Jason Atkinson (solo), 2000

14Trad 16m
6 Rising Sun (links The Furburger into Blister in the Sun) 16Sport 17m
7 Something For Kate

A nice easy well protected climb for the beginners. The crux is getting established onto the wall just above the overlap at 1/3 height. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Jason Atkinson / Ian Ezzy, 2002

12Sport 15m
8 Drama Lama

Links 'No Drama' into 'Melodrama'.

Start: Start as for 'No Drama' but veer left at the 1st RB and continue up 'Melodrama'.

FA: Jason Atkinson / Lee Walker, 2000

15Sport 7m
9 ** Rising Sun

Links the 1st half of 'The Furburger' into the 2nd half of 'Blister In The Sun'.

FA: Jason Atkinson / Melissa McNie, 2005

16Trad 17m
10 Project (Bargirra)

3RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Aboriginal for 'Climb Quickly'.

Start 2m right of the arête halfway down the 'Lookout' 'Access' 'Gully'.

FA: Jason Atkinson, 2000

Sport 8m

1.2. The Block Environs 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Loose Lips Leeroy

Tricky start , then make you way up the wall, move left when you are above the rock scar. Final hard moves on exposed left nose, reach up high above the crack. 4RB's to 2RB anchor

FA: Jason Atkinson, 2003

17Sport 15m, 5
2 Burnum Burnum

3RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: John Koster, 2005

17Sport 8m
3 Great Warrior

As the name implies be prepared for a battle in order to overcome this imposing line.

Start: Start as for 'Burnum Burnum' but move right and up after the 1st RB.

FA: John Koster, 2005

13Sport 8m
4 A Fish Called Miltski

Climb the wide corner crack at the back of the gully just left of the obvious orange streaked wall. It may be wise to supplement the RB's with natural gear.

FA: Lee Walker / Jason Atkinson, 2003

14Trad 12m
5 * The Edge

An unusual climb and well worth doing. After a hard start to get established traverse right along the front edge of the block before mantling to clip the anchors. 4RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Jason Atkinson, 2003

18Sport 15m
6 ** Layback

Layback the right hand side arête of the block, mantle and finish at the anchors of the 'The Edge'. 3RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: John Koster, 2000

18Sport 7m
7 Bilbo Baggins

Start on the undercut right hand side of the block. It's a very bouldery start to pull on and lunge out left to the flake. Be prepared to fall off. 3RB's to 2RB anchor

FA: John Carvin, 2003

21Sport 7m

1.3. Balrog Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:© (Ashy)

Balrog Wall is located 25m to the right of 'The Block' Environs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Weapons Of Mass Destruction

Although not hard this climb has a couple of tricky sections that are not initially obvious and require some thought to overcome. At the 6th RB move left and find the hidden pocket around the arête which allows you to get through what appears to be an impossibly blank section. It's still not over as the last move to clip the anchors is no give away. 7RB's to 2RB anchor

FA: Mark Ashmore, 2005

18Sport 16m
2 Old Timer's Disease

Start as for 'Weapons Of Mass Destruction' but after the 1st couple of moves once you can reach the block, traverse right before continuing up the wall. Though the rock on the bottom section is not great the climbing on the upper half is good and quite thought provoking. 7RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Tony Lindley, 2002

18Sport 16m
3 * The Balrog

Good technical climbing with a couple of hard moves and a tricky slab finish. Note that 'The Balrog' and 'Shelob' use the same holds towards the finish. 6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

20Sport 16m
4 Shelob

6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: John Koster

20Sport 16m
5 Wasp welts at one o'clock

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: 3rd Climb from the right starts on blunt arete. Lots of jugs down low enjoy the rest at halfway, then suck it up for the techo slab at top

FA: Jamie Mennie, 2000

Sport 16m
6 A world gone mad

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: Left hand end of cave. Hard start and keep cranking for the first three bolts till it eases to slab moves at top

FA: Rick Phillips, 2000

23Sport 16m
7 Rule Brittania

At present only the anchors have been installed.

Start: Right hand end of cave. 'Steep' and juggy to start followed by hard slab cruxes at top

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2000

Sport 16m

1.4. Isengard Buttress 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:© (Ashy)

Isengard Buttress is located 25m to the right of 'Balrog Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Philosopher's Stone

Climb the face past 2RB's then traverse right along the ledge past 2RB's to the blunt arête, now up the chimney past RB. Step left across the void and up to anchors. 5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start in the middle of the small face on the left hand side of the buttress.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

12Sport 15m
2 ** Isengard

Climb the left hand side of the arête past 3RB's before moving right onto the wall and then up. The rock at the start is average but the main wall is reminiscent of an easier version of 'Vanderholics'.

8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 3m right of 'Philosopher's Stone' just left of the arête.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

18Sport 23m
3 Isengard Direct

A direct start to 'Isengard'. Stick clip 1st RB. Start as for 'Super Creeps' but after the 1st RB move left and pull onto the face and past 3RBs before joining 'Isengard'. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Sport Project 24m
4 ** Super Creeps

Stick clip 1st RB. Climb the dubious looking steep rock which isn't as bad as it looks. After the 1st RB pull right onto the face and continue directly up. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

24Sport 24m
5 ** Drive-In Saturday

Start as for 'Forth Dimension' but traverse along the lower line of RB's to the arête. Place a long sling on the belay and 1st RB of 'Forth Dimension'. Continue up the arête past 2RB's before moving left to finish up 'Super Creeps'. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

22Sport 24m
6 * Forth Dimension

The climb starts on the ledge at the 2RB belay inside the cave on the right hand side of the buttress. However, its best to just belay from the ground, walk in along the ledge and place a long sling on the belay to avoid rope drag. Traverse left past the upper line of RB's to the arête. Continue up the crack before moving right onto the wall. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: Rod Young, 2002

17Sport 24m

1.5. Sunset Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
Approach:© (Ashy)

Sunset Wall is located 25m right of 'Isengard Buttress' directly next to the Powerlines 'Access' 'Gully'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stranglehold

7RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start in the cave just right of the orange streaked wall at the level of the 1st RB.

FA: Rod Young

23Sport 19m
2 Burpin McGlurkin

Climb the boulder at the bottom of the access gully. From the top of the boulder move left and pull onto the hanging arête. Traverse left past 3RBs then continue up.

6RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: John Koster

21Sport 17m
3 Smirkin & Lurkin

Start as for 'Burpin McGlurpin' but after pulling onto the hanging arête continue straight up before moving left to the big blob hold. Finish by running it out to the anchors. Some may feel a little nervous getting from the boulder onto the hanging arête as the 1st bolt does look a long way down … so take care.

5RB's to 2RB anchor.

FA: John Koster

19Sport 15m
4 Gherkin The Merkin

Stick clip the first RB. A difficult but enjoyable introduction to the climb is followed by what appears to be a very difficult move. On closer examination however this is circumvented by the use of a manufactured pocket that looks like it was created with a jack hammer not sculptured with the precision of a 12mm drill bit. This 'Thank God Pocket' is actually all that is left of a misplaced bolt placement.

If you do the climb by stemming back against the opposite wall to bypass any difficulties the grade is about 16.

5RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 2m up the access gully.

FA: John Koster, 2000

16Sport 10m

1.6. Climbs To Delete 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 23 (obsolete - use Chocolate Jollies) 23Sport 11m
2 * 22 (obsolete - use Pole Sluts) 22Sport 11m
3 ** Right 22 (obsolete - use Too Cute To Shoot)

Hard 22

22Sport 11m
4 * 20 (Obsolete - use Trust)

Hard last move

20Sport 11m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 Something For Kate Sport 15m 1.1. Lookout Wall
** Philosopher's Stone Sport 15m 1.4. Isengard Buttress
13 Great Warrior Sport 8m 1.2. The Block Environs
14 The Furburger Trad 16m 1.1. Lookout Wall
A Fish Called Miltski Trad 12m 1.2. The Block Environs
15 Drama Lama Sport 7m 1.1. Lookout Wall
16 Blister In The Sun Sport 18m 1.1. Lookout Wall
** Rising Sun Trad 17m 1.1. Lookout Wall
Rising Sun (links The Furburger into Blister in the Sun) Sport 17m 1.1. Lookout Wall
Gherkin The Merkin Sport 10m 1.5. Sunset Wall
17 Drama Lama (links No Drama into Melodrama) Sport 9m 1.1. Lookout Wall
Melodrama Sport 10m 1.1. Lookout Wall
Burnum Burnum Sport 8m 1.2. The Block Environs
Loose Lips Leeroy Sport 15m, 5 1.2. The Block Environs
* Forth Dimension Sport 24m 1.4. Isengard Buttress
18 No Drama Sport 15m 1.1. Lookout Wall
** Layback Sport 7m 1.2. The Block Environs
* The Edge Sport 15m 1.2. The Block Environs
Old Timer's Disease Sport 16m 1.3. Balrog Wall
* Weapons Of Mass Destruction Sport 16m 1.3. Balrog Wall
** Isengard Sport 23m 1.4. Isengard Buttress
19 Smirkin & Lurkin Sport 15m 1.5. Sunset Wall
20 Shelob Sport 16m 1.3. Balrog Wall
* The Balrog Sport 16m 1.3. Balrog Wall
* 20 (Obsolete - use Trust) Sport 11m 1.6. Climbs To Delete
21 Bilbo Baggins Sport 7m 1.2. The Block Environs
Burpin McGlurkin Sport 17m 1.5. Sunset Wall
22 ** Drive-In Saturday Sport 24m 1.4. Isengard Buttress
* 22 (obsolete - use Pole Sluts) Sport 11m 1.6. Climbs To Delete
** Right 22 (obsolete - use Too Cute To Shoot) Sport 11m 1.6. Climbs To Delete
23 A world gone mad Sport 16m 1.3. Balrog Wall
Stranglehold Sport 19m 1.5. Sunset Wall
* 23 (obsolete - use Chocolate Jollies) Sport 11m 1.6. Climbs To Delete
24 ** Super Creeps Sport 24m 1.4. Isengard Buttress
? Project (Loop) Sport 11m 1. Thompson's Sunrise
Project (Bargirra) Sport 8m 1.1. Lookout Wall
Rule Brittania Sport 16m 1.3. Balrog Wall
Wasp welts at one o'clock Sport 16m 1.3. Balrog Wall
Isengard Direct Sport Project 24m 1.4. Isengard Buttress