A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Oatlands 196 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.377433, -42.304523

Description:

Oatlands has been in development since 2001 and is now the best bouldering area in Tasmania. The climbing is on both roofs and faces and is of very high quality. The sandstone is generally quite solid, which is fairly unique for Tasmania. As well as Tasmania's hardest bouldering, Oatlands also has an increasing number of quality moderates.

Approach:

Oatlands can be found about 1 hours drive north of Hobart up the Midlands Highway, or a bit longer than 1 hour south of Launceston.

1.1. Top Dam 119 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.379717, -42.302370

Approach:

To get to the northern areas walk across the top dam, jump the wooden fence at the end of the dam (or walk around it when water level is low enough) and walk along the lake.

1.1.1. Dead Sheep 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379921, -42.301126

Description:

This is the small cave and wall to the left of the Rumble Cave. It is the furthest left of the caves in the line of cliffs that face the top dam.

All these problems are sandy and need more cleaning.

History:

At some point there was the skeleton of a dead sheep in the right side of the cave, hence the cave's name.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Fencepost Left

Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.

V5Boulder
2 Fencepost Right

Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle.

V3Boulder
3 The Tomb of the Dead Sheep

Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.

V3Boulder
4 Lamb Chops

Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out.

V2Boulder
5 Mutton Dressed as Lamb

Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton

V2Boulder
6 * V3/4

Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out.

V4Boulder
7 Mutton

Stand - One left of very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

V1Boulder
8 V1

Stand - Very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

V1Boulder

1.1.2. Rumble Cave 24 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379636, -42.301277

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jake's Problem

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same.

V8Boulder
2 *** Fire in the Hole

Sitstart on pedestal on the left edge of cave and head out right to top out

V7Boulder
3 *** Thriller in your Hole

Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole.

FA: S. Young, 2012

V7Boulder
4 *** Thriller in Manilla

Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.

V6Boulder
5 *** Hole in the Jungle

Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole

V7Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Rumble in the Jungle

Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out.

V5Boulder
7 ** Rumble in the Jungle (RHV)

After starting Rumble head right to lip, finishing on right side of capstone.

V5Boulder
8 *** Rumblathon

Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole.

FA: T. Krauss, 2014

V9Boulder
9 Bongo In The Congo

Roof climbing, finishing on the starting hold of Rumble. Sit start of jugs in cave about 5m right of Rumble.

V4Boulder
10 *** Flat Head on Fire

Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole

FA: T. Krauss, 2012

V7Boulder
11 *** Flat Head

Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble.

V6Boulder
12 * Flat Head Direct

Start as for Flounder sitstart and traverse the lip leftwards, head up on crimps about 1 metre right of Rumble, finish as for Rumble.

V5Boulder
13 ** Flounder

SDS under lip 3m right of RITJ (1m left of corner). Up on slopes.

V6Boulder
14 Yoga Traverse

Sit start in corner as for Yoga, head right on slopers into Congaline of Suckholes and finish on top jug of same climb.

V5Boulder
15 * Yoga Tra-Reverse

Sit start as for Congaline of Suckholes and head left via slopers into Yoga.

FA: S. Young, 2012

V5Boulder
16 *** Congaline of Suckholes

Sit start, up black streak 3m right of Flounder.

V3Boulder
17 * Frogger

Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds.

FA: T. Krauss, 2013

V6Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 * Frogger Direct

Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener.

FA: T. Krauss, 2013

V3Boulder
19 Constant Gardener

A few metres right of Congaline of Suckholes there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab.

V2Boulder
20 V4 Knobs

SDS up over lip on knobs and up knobby slab, needs a lot of cleaning!

V4Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 * Smelly French Bulldog / Ode To George

SDS up black groove on slopers

FA: C. Hampton, 2014

V5Boulder
22 ** Yeah Daddy Go Daddy

Start as for V2 out to lip sloper, then big move left to left hand crimp and sketchy mantle

FA: Chris Lang, 2014

V4Boulder
23 * V2

SDS with hands matched in little cave, right hand out to sloper on lip, heel hook and difficult mantle to top

V2Boulder
24 V1

Up corner steeply on big jugs

V1Boulder

1.1.3. Blackberry Jam Wall 0 routes in Area

1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379069, -42.301922

Description:

Located about 100 metres left of the Devils Kitchen. The Devils Kitchenette is the first big overhang you find when walking around the lakes edge from the Rumble Cave. If the lakes water level is high, the landings will be wet.

Approach:

If approaching along the top of the cliffline, assuming you stay close to the edge, when you first get a good look at the large overhang of the Devils Kitchen, you will be about on top of the Devils Kitchenette. You can scramble down a slab immediatly on its town side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** The Cheeky Little Devil

Big moves between big jugs. SDS from low hold. Move up then right, then back left out roof to top out.

V5Boulder
2 *** Kitchen Bitch

SDS 2m right of TCLD. Up and out through improbable big roof.

V6Boulder
3 V2

Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge.

V2Boulder
4 1st V3

Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs.

V3Boulder
5 2nd V3

Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block.

V3Boulder
6 * 1844

Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry

V4Boulder
7 1844 Traverse

Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil

V5Boulder
8 Gremlin

Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree.

V6Boulder

1.1.5. The Devil's Kitchen 36 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379312, -42.302538

1.1.5.1. Left Side 5 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.379321, -42.302287

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Sorted

Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove.

V2Boulder
2 1st V0

Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this.

V0Boulder
3 2nd V0

Go upward from part way along the rail.

V0Boulder
4 1st V2

Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove.

V2Boulder
5 2nd V2

Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted.

V2Boulder
1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area 10 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.379300, -42.302412

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** V7

Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof.

V7Boulder
2 * The Antichrist

Stand Start - Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip.

FA: Sam Edwards

V10Boulder
3 Project

Project - Stand Start - traverse right to left using the footholds of The Antichrist.

V?Boulder
4 * Anti-Problems

Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9.

V7 to V9Boulder
5 * The Gambler

Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip

FA: Kim Robinson

V12Boulder
6 *** Trident

Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip.

FA: Kim Robinson

V10Boulder
7 * Scab Robinson

Stand Start - Big jump out to lip from two crimps.

FA: Sam Edwards

V9Boulder
8 V3

Stand Start - Top out from the left hand end of the big ledge. Provides a finish for Trident or Scab Robinson.

V3Boulder
9 The Devil's Tongue

Stand Start

FA: Kim Robinson

V9Boulder
10 The Punisher

Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge.

V7Boulder
1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area 5 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.379297, -42.302517

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project One

Project - Mega hard project - starts as for the V6 and finishes in the Antichrist scoop following the obvious edges along the brake.

V?Boulder Project
2 V6

Sit start in back of the cave, head right.

FA: Campbell Godfrey

V6Boulder
3 V3

Jump up to the lip and top out up water groove.

V3Boulder
4 Project Two

Project - Kim's Project

V?Boulder
5 *** The Vanishing Point

Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat.

FA: Tyson Atwell

V13Boulder
1.1.5.4. Darkside Area 8 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.379297, -42.302628

Description:

This is the wall above the lip of the cave to the left of the fallen block, and to the right of the finish of Vanishing Point.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V?

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip

V?Boulder
2 1st V1

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem.

V1Boulder
3 2nd V1

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem.

V1Boulder
4 Marathon

Hang Start - Start as for 1st V1 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree.

V7Boulder
5 Healing Hands

Stand Start - Classic

FA: Sam Edwards

V13Boulder
6 3rd V1

Stand Start - Traverse right to left along rail

V1Boulder
7 ** Darkside

Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left.

FA: Sam Edwards

V11Boulder
8 Presence of Mind

Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside.

V12Boulder
1.1.5.5. Right Side 8 routes in Area
Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.379357, -42.302764

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * V2

Stand Start - Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right.

V2Boulder
2 V3 Campus

Stand Start - Up from good hold at lip

V3Boulder
3 * Jacket

Stand Start - Up from lip 1.5m right of V3 campus broblem

FA: E. Robson, 2013

V6Boulder
4 * Goodbye Fingerprint

Start one meter right of Six V6, hang start the crimpy jug, move up and left, and mantle the short headwall via some sharp crimps.

FA: T. Krauss, 14th Sep

V6Boulder
5 Project Two

Project - Sam's project through roof

V?Boulder
6 *** unknown V9Boulder
7 unkown eliminate

Starts on same sloper as V9 and V7. Pull on move towards the lip via small crimps to the right of jug of V7. This variation elimiates the jug used in the v7 and tops out via the headwall as V9.

V8Boulder
8 * unknown 2

SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3. Downgrading has been suggested to V5.

V7Boulder

1.1.6. The Fallen Block 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379216, -42.302737

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Short and Sweet

SDS on slopey pockets, then up to big left jug and mantle.

V2Boulder
2 * Cripple

Sit start under steep arete closest to the island. Use two pockets left of arete, and much body tension to move up and rightish.

V4Boulder
3 Unkown

Hard crimp problem between Cripple and Fallen Angel

V7Boulder
4 * Fallen Angel

Sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer

V3Boulder
5 * Lucifer

Good start pocket, left up to ledge then up

V3Boulder
6 Slopers

2m right up Lucifer, up big slopers

V3Boulder
7 Flat Out

SDS on right side of the face 'facing' the main ckiffline

V5Boulder
8 * Bird Turd

Starts on same starting hold as V5 Flat Out, move up and head right to 'nose' of boulder and mantle over right around the lip

V4Boulder

1.1.7. Highball Wall 0 routes in Area

1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379563, -42.303421

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V0- (stand) V0-Boulder
2 2. V3 (sds) V3Boulder
3 3. Wedgie V3 (sds) V3Boulder
4 4. V4 (sds) V4Boulder
5 5. Getting Warmer V2 (sds) V2Boulder
6 6. Snappy Direct V3 (sds) V3Boulder
7 7. Snappy V2 (sds) V2Boulder
8 8. Comedy Value V2 (sds) V2Boulder
9 9. V? (stand) Boulder
10 10. Dull Blade V6 (sds) V6Boulder
11 ** 11. Warm Me Up V1

Obvious jugs and undercling to topout - no feet on the boulder to the right of start. It might stay dry in rain, but your shoes won't!

V1Boulder

1.1.9. Backdoor Block 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379694, -42.303583

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V0 (sds) V0Boulder
2 2. Aphex Twin V5 (highball, stand) V5Boulder
3 3. Kiche the Curry Dog V4 (sds) V4Boulder
4 4. Backdoor V3 (highball, sds) V3Boulder
5 5. V2 (sds) V2Boulder
6 6. Spearhead V3 (sds) V3Boulder

1.1.10. Hidden Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.379858, -42.303584

1.1.10.1. Left hand end 6 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V) (stand) V0Boulder
2 2. Eloise's Slab V2 (stand) V2Boulder
3 3. The Disposable Heroes of Hypocrisy V4Boulder
4 4. Go back to the gym (stand) V2Boulder
5 5. Jando's Masterpiece (stand) V3Boulder
6 1. V0 (stand) V0Boulder
1.1.10.2. Further right 8 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 1. Kim's Highball (stand) V3Boulder
2 2. V4 Highball (stand) V4Boulder
3 ** 3. Blood Lust (highball, sds) V7Boulder
4 * 4. Stitch in Time (highball, sds) V7Boulder
5 ** 5. Time (highball, sds) V6Boulder
6 5a. Time LHV (highball, sds) V6Boulder
7 6. V4 (sds) V4Boulder
8 7. V3 (sds) V3Boulder
1.1.10.3. Far right hand side 4 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. ? ?Boulder
2 2. V5 (highball, stand) V5Boulder
3 3. ? ?Boulder
4 4. ? ?Boulder

1.2. Bottom Dam 77 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.381684, -42.306009

Approach:

To get to the southern areas, walk across the bottom dam, up the slab (can be a bit sketchy with pads, especially when wet - easier to the left)

1.2.1. Lloyd's Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.380945, -42.305348

1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall 6 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grendel (sds) V4Boulder
2 1. V7 (stand) V7Boulder
3 2. V6 (stand) V6Boulder
4 3. Lloyd's Dyno (stand) V5Boulder
5 4. V? (sds) ?Boulder
6 5. Campbell's Problem V6 (sds) V6Boulder
1.2.1.2. Middle Section 4 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Nettle Lover (sds) V1Boulder
2 2. Cardboard Thin (sds) V2Boulder
3 3. Itchy and Scratchy (sds) V4Boulder
4 4. Al's Highball (highball, sds) V3Boulder
1.2.1.3. Far Right of the cliff line 2 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Ren (hang) V4Boulder
2 2. Stimpy (hang) V5Boulder

1.2.2. The Egg Boulder 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.380928, -42.305536

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Green (sds) V4Boulder
2 2. V3 (sds) V3Boulder
3 3. Frixion (stand) V2Boulder
4 4. Saddam's Slab of Torture V4Boulder

1.2.3. The Gorse Factory 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.381744, -42.305713

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Wombat Fucker V1Boulder
2 2. V? (sds) ?Boulder
3 3. The Gorse Whisperer (sds) V5Boulder
4 4. V2 (hang) V2Boulder
5 5. Gorse Fucker (sds) V3Boulder

1.2.4. The Bakehouse 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.381901, -42.305920

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V? (sds) ?Boulder
2 2. V? (sds) ?Boulder
3 3. V? (stand) ?Boulder
4 4. Chocolate Eclair (highball) V3Boulder
5 5. V? (sds) ?Boulder

1.2.5. The Yellow Cave 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.381969, -42.306259

Description:

First cave about 20m left of the bottom dam. Dry in even fierce bad weather.

Approach:

Approach via the bottom dam, Yellow Cave is the first cave left, about 20m from the dam.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Un-named

SDS under roof left of Sanguine Direct. Out, moving right to finish on the same hold as SD.

V3Boulder
2 ** Sanguine Direct

Direct SDS to Sanguine. Start under roof, moving slightly leftish to same finish as Sanguine

V2Boulder
3 *** Sanguine

R to L traverse of sloper rail, finishing up to jug under roof. Great rock.

V4Boulder
4 * Roundhouse

Start as for Sanguine, but move up then left on slopes and pinches. Finish on jug.

V7Boulder
5 Roundhouse - Roof pocket variant

Variation: Out of confusion as to exactly where Roundhouse goes, most people tend to do the slightly easier 'Roof-Pocket' variation which uses the big roof pocket instead of the slopes and pinches. This variation goes at around V5

V5Boulder
6 V6

Hang start on low ledge with your heel up. Move right along the line for a couple of metres to finish on jug. The extension through the lip and top out would probably go.

V6Boulder

1.2.6. Dam Wall Left 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.381909, -42.306499

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. Arsehat (stand) V0Boulder
2 2. V? (stand) ?Boulder
3 3. V? (stand) ?Boulder
4 4. V? (stand) ?Boulder

1.2.7. Funky Town Cave 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.383023, -42.305337

Description:

The Funky Town Cave is host to a handful of classic hard lines, feet are rare and holds are usually small and slopey.

Approach:

To get to Funky Town, walk across the bottom dam, up the slab and then head straight over headland heading a bit right. Follow the headland to find a cave on the opposite side to the Yellow Cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fade to Black

Hang Start on the horrendous pinches, slap up to slopers and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting

FA: Sam Edwards

V13Boulder
2 Kung Fu Fighting

Start on undercling and slope and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug.

FA: Sam Edwards

V9Boulder
3 Acid Reign

Was V7 until starting hold broke. Start on undercling and broken sloper.

FA: Sam Edwards

V8Boulder
4 The Fountain

Start on the slopers right hand side of Acid Reign. Up to same finish

FA: T. Krauss, 2014

V8Boulder
5 V3

Traverse from the huge juggy sloper to the right as far as possible

V3Boulder
6 High traverse

As for low traverse but hands only on the thinner line

V5Boulder
7 Groove Train

Start on slopes heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not.

FA: Kim Robinson

V10Boulder
8 Rhamnusia

Start on low crimpy rail 3m right of Groove Train, up to slopers then head left to finish at nose.

V10Boulder

1.2.8. Funky Town Slab 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.383064, -42.305521

Description:

The Funky Town Slab is the slabby headwall to the left of the Funky Town Cave.

Only one route on the wall has been recorded, though some other lines have been attempted there is still some potential for new hard lines.

Approach:

Access to the slab is the same as for Funky Town Cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * V7

The farthest left of the 3 water-grooves

V7Boulder

1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.383144, -42.305735

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V? ?Boulder
2 V3 (stand) V3Boulder
3 1. Stuck on You (hang) V5Boulder
4 2. V3 (stand) V3Boulder
5 3. V5 (stand) V5Boulder
6 4. Unstuck (sds) V5Boulder
7 5. Project V10+Boulder

1.2.10. Electric Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1. V1 (sds) V1Boulder
2 2. Blind Mullet (sds) V4Boulder
3 3. Electric Lazyland (stand) V5Boulder
4 4. V? (stand) ?Boulder

1.2.11. Dam Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crack Head (sds) V5Boulder
2 1. Iron Maiden (sds) V3Boulder
3 2. Fractional (sds) V3Boulder
4 *** Mr Happy Place

30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start left of the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers.

FA: Sam Edwards

V12Boulder
5 ** Worthy of Attack

The shallow crack 6m right of My Happy Place. Sit start on sidepull at bottom of crack, climb up to ledge and then top out in any direction that appeals.

V11Boulder

1.2.12. The Electric Avenue 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

These are the short walls on the next point across from Funky Town. The first section has potential for quite a few more short, moderate problems.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 V2

Start as for Electric Avenue but go left to the next set of jugs.

V2Boulder
2 Electric Avenue

Start 1m left of arete at jug. Up jugs to top.

V2Boulder
3 V0

Start at flat hold 1m right of arete.

V0Boulder

1.2.13. Fred's Point 0 routes in Area

1.2.14. The Island 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.378747, -42.307424

1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side 13 routes in Area
Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Buzzy Land

Start on undercling and go up and left, to finish as for El Nino

FA: Kim Robinson

V8Boulder
2 * El Jeffe

Start in between El Nino and BuzzyLand at an undercling. Up to the two crimps on BuzzyLand and then straight up.

V7Boulder
3 Slap Slap

This is a small cave around and up to the left of the main cave. Start on the slopey lip , mantle to top.

V3Boulder
4 Fear and Loathing

Start as for Slap Slap, but go right through choss.

V3Boulder
5 * Spirulina

Hang start on the large jug, climb up to the crack, jam through it and battle over the top.

FA: Dave James

V1Boulder
6 * 1st V5

Start at back of cave and climb out on jugs and jump around lip to big slopey basin. Has been done with top out at V7

FA: Kim Robinson

V5Boulder
7 2nd V5

Climb out from back of cave to big jug on lip and traverse the lip rightwards to finish up La Nina.

FA: Kim Robinson

V5Boulder
8 Oonga Boonga

Project - Start at back of cave directly in from the big jug, near the Oonga Boonga grafitti. Hard moves out the roof to the jug on the lip, and then even harder moves straight up to finish. The two halves have been done individually, both at about V9

V9Boulder
9 V3/4

Start as for La Nina and traverse the entire length of cave leftwards on the back wall to the start of Spirulina.

FA: Kim Robinson

V4Boulder
10 Doug's Linkup

Start as for La Nina, and do the first move out to the flake/undercling. The head left on jugs through the roof, to finish at no. 2.

V5Boulder
11 *** La Nina

Start on jugs on the back wall 2m left of El Nino. Straight out to lip then finish right and up.

FA: Jon Nermut

V4Boulder
12 La Nina Direct

Direct finish to La Nina

FA: Kim Robinson

V8Boulder
13 * El Nino

Start at the right hand end of the cave. Out to lip then up and slightly left.

FA: Jon Nermut

V4Boulder
1.2.14.2. Mary's Wall 0 routes in Area
1.2.14.3. Anzac Wall 0 routes in Area
1.2.14.4. The Island - Town Side 0 routes in Area

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0- 1. V0- (stand) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
V0 1st V0 Boulder 1.1.5.1. Left Side
2nd V0 Boulder 1.1.5.1. Left Side
1. V0 (sds) Boulder 1.1.9. Backdoor Block
1. V) (stand) Boulder 1.1.10.1. Left hand end
1. V0 (stand) Boulder 1.1.10.1. Left hand end
1. Arsehat (stand) Boulder 1.2.6. Dam Wall Left
V0 Boulder 1.2.12. The Electric Avenue
V1 Mutton Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
V1 Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
V1 Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
1st V1 Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
2nd V1 Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
3rd V1 Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
** 11. Warm Me Up V1 Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
1. Nettle Lover (sds) Boulder 1.2.1.2. Middle Section
1. Wombat Fucker Boulder 1.2.3. The Gorse Factory
1. V1 (sds) Boulder 1.2.10. Electric Wall
* Spirulina Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V2 Lamb Chops Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
Mutton Dressed as Lamb Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
Constant Gardener Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
* V2 Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
V2 Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
1st V2 Boulder 1.1.5.1. Left Side
2nd V2 Boulder 1.1.5.1. Left Side
* Sorted Boulder 1.1.5.1. Left Side
* V2 Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side
* Short and Sweet Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
5. Getting Warmer V2 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
7. Snappy V2 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
8. Comedy Value V2 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
5. V2 (sds) Boulder 1.1.9. Backdoor Block
2. Eloise's Slab V2 (stand) Boulder 1.1.10.1. Left hand end
4. Go back to the gym (stand) Boulder 1.1.10.1. Left hand end
2. Cardboard Thin (sds) Boulder 1.2.1.2. Middle Section
3. Frixion (stand) Boulder 1.2.2. The Egg Boulder
4. V2 (hang) Boulder 1.2.3. The Gorse Factory
** Sanguine Direct Boulder 1.2.5. The Yellow Cave
Electric Avenue Boulder 1.2.12. The Electric Avenue
V2 Boulder 1.2.12. The Electric Avenue
V3 Fencepost Right Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
The Tomb of the Dead Sheep Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
*** Congaline of Suckholes Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
* Frogger Direct Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
1st V3 Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
2nd V3 Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
V3 Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
V3 Boulder 1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area
V3 Campus Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side
* Fallen Angel Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
* Lucifer Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
Slopers Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
2. V3 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
3. Wedgie V3 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
6. Snappy Direct V3 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
4. Backdoor V3 (highball, sds) Boulder 1.1.9. Backdoor Block
6. Spearhead V3 (sds) Boulder 1.1.9. Backdoor Block
5. Jando's Masterpiece (stand) Boulder 1.1.10.1. Left hand end
* 1. Kim's Highball (stand) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
7. V3 (sds) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
4. Al's Highball (highball, sds) Boulder 1.2.1.2. Middle Section
2. V3 (sds) Boulder 1.2.2. The Egg Boulder
5. Gorse Fucker (sds) Boulder 1.2.3. The Gorse Factory
4. Chocolate Eclair (highball) Boulder 1.2.4. The Bakehouse
* Un-named Boulder 1.2.5. The Yellow Cave
V3 Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
2. V3 (stand) Boulder 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder
V3 (stand) Boulder 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder
1. Iron Maiden (sds) Boulder 1.2.11. Dam Wall
2. Fractional (sds) Boulder 1.2.11. Dam Wall
Fear and Loathing Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
Slap Slap Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V4 * V3/4 Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
Bongo In The Congo Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
V4 Knobs Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
** Yeah Daddy Go Daddy Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
* 1844 Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
* Bird Turd Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
* Cripple Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
4. V4 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
3. Kiche the Curry Dog V4 (sds) Boulder 1.1.9. Backdoor Block
3. The Disposable Heroes of Hypocrisy Boulder 1.1.10.1. Left hand end
2. V4 Highball (stand) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
6. V4 (sds) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
Grendel (sds) Boulder 1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall
3. Itchy and Scratchy (sds) Boulder 1.2.1.2. Middle Section
1. Ren (hang) Boulder 1.2.1.3. Far Right of the cliff line
1. Green (sds) Boulder 1.2.2. The Egg Boulder
4. Saddam's Slab of Torture Boulder 1.2.2. The Egg Boulder
*** Sanguine Boulder 1.2.5. The Yellow Cave
2. Blind Mullet (sds) Boulder 1.2.10. Electric Wall
* El Nino Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
*** La Nina Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V3/4 Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V5 * Fencepost Left Boulder 1.1.1. Dead Sheep
* Flat Head Direct Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
*** Rumble in the Jungle Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
** Rumble in the Jungle (RHV) Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
* Smelly French Bulldog Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
* Yoga Tra-Reverse Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
Yoga Traverse Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
1844 Traverse Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
*** The Cheeky Little Devil Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
Flat Out Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
2. Aphex Twin V5 (highball, stand) Boulder 1.1.9. Backdoor Block
2. V5 (highball, stand) Boulder 1.1.10.3. Far right hand side
3. Lloyd's Dyno (stand) Boulder 1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall
2. Stimpy (hang) Boulder 1.2.1.3. Far Right of the cliff line
3. The Gorse Whisperer (sds) Boulder 1.2.3. The Gorse Factory
Roundhouse - Roof pocket variant Boulder 1.2.5. The Yellow Cave
High traverse Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
1. Stuck on You (hang) Boulder 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder
3. V5 (stand) Boulder 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder
4. Unstuck (sds) Boulder 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder
3. Electric Lazyland (stand) Boulder 1.2.10. Electric Wall
Crack Head (sds) Boulder 1.2.11. Dam Wall
* 1st V5 Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
2nd V5 Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
Doug's Linkup Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V6 *** Flat Head Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
** Flounder Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
* Frogger Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
*** Thriller in Manilla Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
Gremlin Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
*** Kitchen Bitch Boulder 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette
V6 Boulder 1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area
* Goodbye Fingerprint Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side
* Jacket Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side
10. Dull Blade V6 (sds) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
** 5. Time (highball, sds) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
5a. Time LHV (highball, sds) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
2. V6 (stand) Boulder 1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall
5. Campbell's Problem V6 (sds) Boulder 1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall
V6 Boulder 1.2.5. The Yellow Cave
V7 *** Fire in the Hole Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
*** Flat Head on Fire Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
*** Hole in the Jungle Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
*** Thriller in your Hole Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
The Punisher Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
*** V7 Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
Marathon Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
* unknown 2 Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side
Unkown Boulder 1.1.6. The Fallen Block
** 3. Blood Lust (highball, sds) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
* 4. Stitch in Time (highball, sds) Boulder 1.1.10.2. Further right
1. V7 (stand) Boulder 1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall
* Roundhouse Boulder 1.2.5. The Yellow Cave
* V7 Boulder 1.2.8. Funky Town Slab
* El Jeffe Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V8 Jake's Problem Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
unkown eliminate Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side
Acid Reign Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
The Fountain Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
* Buzzy Land Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
La Nina Direct Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V7 to V9 * Anti-Problems Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
V9 *** Rumblathon Boulder 1.1.2. Rumble Cave
* Scab Robinson Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
The Devil's Tongue Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
*** unknown Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side
Kung Fu Fighting Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
Oonga Boonga Boulder 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side
V10 * The Antichrist Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
*** Trident Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
Groove Train Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
Rhamnusia Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
V11 ** Darkside Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
** Worthy of Attack Boulder 1.2.11. Dam Wall
V12 * The Gambler Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
Presence of Mind Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
*** Mr Happy Place Boulder 1.2.11. Dam Wall
V13 *** The Vanishing Point Boulder 1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area
Healing Hands Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
Fade to Black Boulder 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave
? 9. V? (stand) Boulder 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks
1. ? Boulder 1.1.10.3. Far right hand side
3. ? Boulder 1.1.10.3. Far right hand side
4. ? Boulder 1.1.10.3. Far right hand side
4. V? (sds) Boulder 1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall
2. V? (sds) Boulder 1.2.3. The Gorse Factory
1. V? (sds) Boulder 1.2.4. The Bakehouse
2. V? (sds) Boulder 1.2.4. The Bakehouse
3. V? (stand) Boulder 1.2.4. The Bakehouse
5. V? (sds) Boulder 1.2.4. The Bakehouse
2. V? (stand) Boulder 1.2.6. Dam Wall Left
3. V? (stand) Boulder 1.2.6. Dam Wall Left
4. V? (stand) Boulder 1.2.6. Dam Wall Left
V? Boulder 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder
4. V? (stand) Boulder 1.2.10. Electric Wall
V10+ 5. Project Boulder 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder
V? Project Boulder 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area
Project One Boulder Project 1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area
Project Two Boulder 1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area
V? Boulder 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area
Project Two Boulder 1.1.5.5. Right Side