A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
For more information refer to our Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Tommy Krauss
Nick Clow
Brendan Heywood
griffith
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Oatlands
180 in Crag
-
1.1.
Top Dam 106 in Area
- 1.1.1. Dead Sheep 8 in Area
- 1.1.2. Rumble Cave 19 in Area
- 1.1.3. Blackberry Jam Wall 0 in Area
- 1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette 8 in Area
-
1.1.5.
The Devil's Kitchen 34 in Area
- 1.1.5.1. Left Side 5 in Area
- 1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area 10 in Area
- 1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area 5 in Area
- 1.1.5.4. Darkside Area 8 in Area
- 1.1.5.5. Right Side 6 in Area
- 1.1.6. The Fallen Block 2 in Area
- 1.1.7. Highball Wall 0 in Area
- 1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks 11 in Area
- 1.1.9. Backdoor Block 6 in Area
-
1.1.10.
Hidden Wall 18 in Area
- 1.1.10.1. Left hand end 6 in Area
- 1.1.10.2. Further right 8 in Area
- 1.1.10.3. Far right hand side 4 in Area
-
1.2.
Bottom Dam 74 in Area
-
1.2.1.
Lloyd's Wall 12 in Area
- 1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall 6 in Area
- 1.2.1.2. Middle Section 4 in Area
- 1.2.1.3. Far Right of the cliff line 2 in Area
- 1.2.2. The Egg Boulder 4 in Area
- 1.2.3. The Gorse Factory 5 in Area
- 1.2.4. The Bakehouse 5 in Area
- 1.2.5. The Yellow Cave 4 in Area
- 1.2.6. Dam Wall Left 4 in Area
- 1.2.7. Funky Town Cave 7 in Area
- 1.2.8. Funky Town Slab 1 in Area
- 1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder 7 in Area
- 1.2.10. Electric Wall 4 in Area
- 1.2.11. Dam Wall 5 in Area
- 1.2.12. The Electric Avenue 3 in Area
- 1.2.13. Fred's Point 0 in Area
-
1.2.14.
The Island 13 in Area
- 1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side 13 in Area
- 1.2.14.2. Mary's Wall 0 in Area
- 1.2.14.3. Anzac Wall 0 in Area
- 1.2.14.4. The Island - Town Side 0 in Area
-
1.2.1.
Lloyd's Wall 12 in Area
-
1.1.
Top Dam 106 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Oatlands 180 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.377433, -42.304523
- Description:
-
Oatlands has been in development since 2001 and is now the best bouldering area in Tasmania. The climbing is on both roofs and faces and is of very high quality. The sandstone is generally quite solid, which is fairly unique for Tasmania. As well as Tasmania's hardest bouldering, Oatlands also has an increasing number of quality moderates.
- Approach:
-
Oatlands can be found about 1 hours drive north of Hobart up the Midlands Highway, or a bit longer than 1 hour south of Launceston.
1.1. Top Dam 106 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379717, -42.302370
- Approach:
-
To get to the northern areas walk across the top dam, jump the wooden fence at the end of the dam (or walk around it when water level is low enough) and walk along the lake.
1.1.1. Dead Sheep 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379921, -42.301126
- Description:
-
This is the small cave and wall to the left of the Rumble Cave. It is the furthest left of the caves in the line of cliffs that face the top dam.
All these problems are sandy and need more cleaning.
- History:
-
At some point there was the skeleton of a dead sheep in the right side of the cave, hence the cave's name.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout. | V5 | ||||
| 2 |
Fencepost Right
Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle. | V3 | ||||
| 3 |
The Tomb of the Dead Sheep
Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning. | V3 | ||||
| 4 |
Lamb Chops
Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out. | V2 | ||||
| 5 |
Mutton Dressed as Lamb
Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton | V2 | ||||
| 6 |
Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out. | V4 | ||||
| 7 |
Mutton
Stand - One left of very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout | V1 | ||||
| 8 |
V1
Stand - Very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout | V1 | ||||
1.1.2. Rumble Cave 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379636, -42.301277
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Bongo In The Congo
Roof climbing, finishing on the starting hold of Rumble. Sit start of jugs in cave about 5m right of Rumble. | V4 |
o_g 1 years ago
| |||||
| 2 |
Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out. | V5 |
Brendan Heywood 5 weeks agoTommy Krauss 9 months ago
| |||||
| 3 |
After starting Rumble head right to lip, finishing on right side of capstone. | V5 |
o_g 1 years agoo_g 1 years ago
| |||||
| 4 |
Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole | V7 |
Tommy Krauss 3 months ago
| |||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 5 |
Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble. | V6 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
| |||||
| 6 |
Start as for Flounder sitstart and traverse the lip leftwards, head up on crimps about 1 metre right of Rumble, finish as for Rumble. | V5 | ||||||
| 7 |
Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole FA: T. Krauss, 2012 | V7 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
| |||||
| 8 |
Sitstart on pedestal on the left edge of cave and head out right to top out | V7 | ||||||
| 9 |
Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole | V9 | ||||||
| 10 |
SDS under lip 3m right of RITJ (1m left of corner). Up on slopes. | V6 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months agoo_g 11 months ago
| |||||
| 11 |
Jake's Problem
Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. | V8 | ||||||
| 12 |
Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof. | V6 |
Tommy Krauss 5 months ago
| |||||
| 13 |
Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole. FA: S. Young, 2012 | V8 |
Tommy Krauss 3 months ago
| |||||
| 14 |
Yoga Traverse
Sit start in corner as for Yoga, head right on slopers into Congaline of Suckholes and finish on top jug of same climb. | V5 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
| |||||
| 15 |
Sit start as for Congaline of Suckholes and head left via slopers into Yoga. FA: S. Young, 2012 | V5 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
| |||||
| 16 |
Congaline of Suckholes
Sit start, up black streak 3m right of Flounder. | V3 |
o_g 1 years agoo_g 1 years ago
| |||||
| 17 |
Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds. FA: T. Krauss, 2013 | V6 |
Tommy Krauss 12 weeks ago
| |||||
| 18 |
Frogger Direct
Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener. FA: T. Krauss, 2013 | V3 |
Tommy Krauss 12 weeks ago
| |||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 19 |
Constant Gardener
A few metres right of Congaline of Suckholes there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab. | V2 | ||||||
1.1.3. Blackberry Jam Wall 0 routes in Area
1.1.4. The Devil's Kitchenette 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
- Description:
-
Located about 100 metres left of the Devils Kitchen. The Devils Kitchenette is the first big overhang you find when walking around the lakes edge from the Rumble Cave. If the lakes water level is high, the landings will be wet.
- Approach:
-
If approaching along the top of the cliffline, assuming you stay close to the edge, when you first get a good look at the large overhang of the Devils Kitchen, you will be about on top of the Devils Kitchenette. You can scramble down a slab immediatly on its town side.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Big moves between big jugs. SDS from low hold. Move up then right, then back left out roof to top out. | V5 | ||||
| 2 |
SDS 2m right of TCLD. Up and out through improbable big roof. | V6 | ||||
| 3 |
V2
Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge. | V2 | ||||
| 4 |
1st V3
Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs. | V3 | ||||
| 5 |
2nd V3
Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block. | V3 | ||||
| 6 |
Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry | V4 | ||||
| 7 |
1844 Traverse
Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil | V5 | ||||
| 8 |
Gremlin
Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree. | V6 | ||||
1.1.5. The Devil's Kitchen 34 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379205, -42.302318
1.1.5.1. Left Side 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove. | V2 | ||||
| 2 |
1st V0
Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this. | V0 | ||||
| 3 |
2nd V0
Go upward from part way along the rail. | V0 | ||||
| 4 |
1st V2
Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove. | V2 | ||||
| 5 |
2nd V2
Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted. | V2 | ||||
1.1.5.2. The Antichrist Area 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
V7
Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof. | V7 | ||||
| 2 |
Stand Start - Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip. FA: Sam Edwards, | V10 | ||||
| 3 |
Project
Project - Stand Start - traverse right to left using the footholds of The Antichrist. | V? | ||||
| 4 |
Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9. | V7 to V9 | ||||
| 5 |
Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip FA: Kim Robinson, | V12 | ||||
| 6 |
Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip. FA: Kim Robinson, | V10 | ||||
| 7 |
Stand Start - Big jump out to lip from two crimps. FA: Sam Edwards, | V9 | ||||
| 8 |
V3
Stand Start - Top out from the left hand end of the big ledge. Provides a finish for Trident or Scab Robinson. | V3 | ||||
| 9 |
The Devil's Tongue
Stand Start FA: Kim Robinson, | V9 | ||||
| 10 |
The Punisher
Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge. | V7 | ||||
1.1.5.3. Vanishing Point Area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Project One
Project - Mega hard project | V? | ||||
| 2 |
V6
Sit start in back of the cave, head right. FA: Campbell Godfrey, | V6 | ||||
| 3 |
V3
Jump up to the lip and top out up water groove. | V3 | ||||
| 4 |
Project Two
Project - Kim's Project | V? | ||||
| 5 |
Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat. FA: Tyson Atwell, | V13 | ||||
1.1.5.4. Darkside Area 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Description:
-
This is the wall above the lip of the cave to the left of the fallen block, and to the right of the finish of Vanishing Point.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
V?
Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip | V? | ||||
| 2 |
1st V1
Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem. | V1 | ||||
| 3 |
2nd V1
Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem. | V1 | ||||
| 4 |
Marathon
Hang Start - Start as for 1st V1 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree. | V7 | ||||
| 5 |
Healing Hands
Stand Start - Classic FA: Sam Edwards, | V13 | ||||
| 6 |
3rd V1
Stand Start - Traverse right to left along rail | V1 | ||||
| 7 |
Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left. FA: Sam Edwards, | V11 | ||||
| 8 |
Presence of Mind
Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside. | V12 | ||||
1.1.5.5. Right Side 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | unknown | V9 |
Tommy Krauss 3 months ago
| |||
| 2 |
SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3 | V7 |
Tommy Krauss 3 months ago
| |||
| 3 |
Stand Start - Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right. | V2 | ||||
| 4 |
V3
Stand Start - Up from good hold at lip | V3 | ||||
| 5 |
Project One
Stand Start - Project - Up from lip | V? | ||||
| 6 |
Project Two
Project - Sam's project through roof | V? | ||||
1.1.6. The Fallen Block 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379216, -42.302737
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Sit start under steep arete closest to the island. Use two pockets left of arete, and much body tension to move up and rightish. | V4 | ||||
| 2 |
Flat Out
SDS on right side of the face 'facing' the main ckiffline | V5 | ||||
1.1.7. Highball Wall 0 routes in Area
1.1.8. Warm Up Blocks 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379563, -42.303421
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. V0- (stand) | V0- | ||||
| 2 | 2. V3 (sds) | V3 | ||||
| 3 | 3. Wedgie V3 (sds) | V3 | ||||
| 4 | 4. V4 (sds) | V4 | ||||
| 5 | 5. Getting Warmer V2 (sds) | V2 | ||||
| 6 | 6. Snappy Direct V3 (sds) | V3 | ||||
| 7 | 7. Snappy V2 (sds) | V2 | ||||
| 8 | 8. Comedy Value V2 (sds) | V2 | ||||
| 9 | 9. V? (stand) | |||||
| 10 | 10. Dull Blade V6 (sds) | V6 |
o_g 1 years ago
| |||
| 11 | 11. Warm Me Up V1 | V1 |
o_g 1 years ago
| |||
1.1.9. Backdoor Block 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379694, -42.303583
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. V0 (sds) | V0 | ||||
| 2 | 2. Aphex Twin V5 (highball, stand) | V5 | ||||
| 3 | 3. Kiche the Curry Dog V4 (sds) | V4 | ||||
| 4 | 4. Backdoor V3 (highball, sds) | V3 | ||||
| 5 | 5. V2 (sds) | V2 | ||||
| 6 | 6. Spearhead V3 (sds) | V3 | ||||
1.1.10. Hidden Wall 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.379858, -42.303584
1.1.10.1. Left hand end 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. V) (stand) | V0 | ||||
| 2 | 2. Eloise's Slab V2 (stand) | V2 | ||||
| 3 | 3. The Disposable Heroes of Hypocrisy | V4 | ||||
| 4 | 4. Go back to the gym (stand) | V2 | ||||
| 5 | 5. Jando's Masterpiece (stand) | V3 | ||||
| 6 | 1. V0 (stand) | V0 | ||||
1.1.10.2. Further right 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Kim's Highball (stand) | V3 | ||||
| 2 | 2. V4 Highball (stand) | V4 | ||||
| 3 | 3. Blood Lust (highball, sds) | V7 | ||||
| 4 | 4. Stitch in Time (highball, sds) | V7 | ||||
| 5 | 5. Time (highball, sds) | V6 | ||||
| 6 | 5a. Time LHV (highball, sds) | V6 | ||||
| 7 | 6. V4 (sds) | V4 | ||||
| 8 | 7. V3 (sds) | V3 | ||||
1.1.10.3. Far right hand side 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
- ?,Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. ? | ? | ||||
| 2 | 2. V5 (highball, stand) | V5 | ||||
| 3 | 3. ? | ? | ||||
| 4 | 4. ? | ? | ||||
1.2. Bottom Dam 74 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.381684, -42.306009
- Approach:
-
To get to the southern areas, walk across the bottom dam, up the slab (can be a bit sketchy with pads, especially when wet - easier to the left)
1.2.1. Lloyd's Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.380945, -42.305348
1.2.1.1. Vertical Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Grendel (sds) | V4 | ||||
| 2 | 1. V7 (stand) | V7 | ||||
| 3 | 2. V6 (stand) | V6 | ||||
| 4 | 3. Lloyd's Dyno (stand) | V5 | ||||
| 5 | 4. V? (sds) | ? | ||||
| 6 | 5. Campbell's Problem V6 (sds) | V6 | ||||
1.2.1.2. Middle Section 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Nettle Lover (sds) | V1 | ||||
| 2 | 2. Cardboard Thin (sds) | V2 | ||||
| 3 | 3. Itchy and Scratchy (sds) | V4 | ||||
| 4 | 4. Al's Highball (highball, sds) | V3 | ||||
1.2.1.3. Far Right of the cliff line 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Ren (hang) | V4 | ||||
| 2 | 2. Stimpy (hang) | V5 | ||||
1.2.2. The Egg Boulder 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.380928, -42.305536
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Green (sds) | V4 | ||||
| 2 | 2. V3 (sds) | V3 | ||||
| 3 | 3. Frixion (stand) | V2 | ||||
| 4 | 4. Saddam's Slab of Torture | V4 | ||||
1.2.3. The Gorse Factory 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Boulder,?
Long/Lat: 147.381744, -42.305713
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Wombat Fucker | V1 | ||||
| 2 | 2. V? (sds) | ? | ||||
| 3 | 3. The Gorse Whisperer (sds) | V5 | ||||
| 4 | 4. V2 (hang) | V2 | ||||
| 5 | 5. Gorse Fucker (sds) | V3 | ||||
1.2.4. The Bakehouse 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
?,Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.381901, -42.305920
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. V? (sds) | ? | ||||
| 2 | 2. V? (sds) | ? | ||||
| 3 | 3. V? (stand) | ? | ||||
| 4 | 4. Chocolate Eclair (highball) | V3 | ||||
| 5 | 5. V? (sds) | ? | ||||
1.2.5. The Yellow Cave 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.381969, -42.306259
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Un-named
SDS under roof left of Sanguine Direct. Out, moving right to finish on the same hold as SD. | V3 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
| |||||
| 2 |
Direct SDS to Sanguine. Start under roof, moving slightly leftish to same finish as Sanguine | V2 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months agoo_g 1 years ago
| |||||
| 3 |
R to L traverse of sloper rail, finishing up to jug under roof. Great rock. | V4 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months agoo_g 11 months ago
| |||||
| 4 |
Start as for Sanguine, but move up then left on slopes and pinches. Finish on jug. | V7 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
| |||||
1.2.6. Dam Wall Left 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
?,Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.381909, -42.306499
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. Arsehat (stand) | V0 | ||||
| 2 | 2. V? (stand) | ? | ||||
| 3 | 3. V? (stand) | ? | ||||
| 4 | 4. V? (stand) | ? | ||||
1.2.7. Funky Town Cave 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.383023, -42.305337
- Description:
-
The Funky Town Cave is host to a handful of classic hard lines, feet are rare and holds are usually small and slopey.
- Approach:
-
To get to Funky Town, walk across the bottom dam, up the slab and then head straight over headland heading a bit right. Follow the headland to find a cave on the opposite side to the Yellow Cave.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Fade to Black
Hang Start on the horrendous pinches, slap up to slopers and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting FA: Sam Edwards, | V13 | ||||
| 2 |
Kung Fu Fighting
Start on undercling and slope and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug. FA: Sam Edwards, | V9 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
| |||
| 3 |
Acid Reign
Was V7 until starting hold broke. Start on undercling and broken sloper. FA: Sam Edwards, | V8 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months agoTommy Krauss 8 months ago
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| 4 |
Project
Start on the slopers right hand side of Acid Reign. Up to same finish | V? |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
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| 5 |
V3
Traverse from the huge juggy sloper to the right as far as possible | V3 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
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| 6 |
Groove Train
Start on slopes heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not. FA: Kim Robinson, | V10 |
Tommy Krauss 7 months ago
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| 7 |
Rhamnusia
Start on low crimpy rail 3m right of Groove Train, up to slopers then head left to finish at nose. | V10 | ||||
1.2.8. Funky Town Slab 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.383064, -42.305521
- Description:
-
The Funky Town Slab is the slabby headwall to the left of the Funky Town Cave.
Only one route on the wall has been recorded, though some other lines have been attempted there is still some potential for new hard lines.
- Approach:
-
Access to the slab is the same as for Funky Town Cave.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
The farthest left of the 3 water-grooves | V7 | ||||
1.2.9. Funky Town Boulder 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Boulder,?
Long/Lat: 147.383144, -42.305735
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | V? | ? | ||||
| 2 | V3 (stand) | V3 | ||||
| 3 | 1. Stuck on You (hang) | V5 | ||||
| 4 | 2. V3 (stand) | V3 | ||||
| 5 | 3. V5 (stand) | V5 | ||||
| 6 | 4. Unstuck (sds) | V5 | ||||
| 7 | 5. Project | V10+ | ||||
1.2.10. Electric Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Boulder,?
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. V1 (sds) | V1 | ||||
| 2 | 2. Blind Mullet (sds) | V4 | ||||
| 3 | 3. Electric Lazyland (stand) | V5 | ||||
| 4 | 4. V? (stand) | ? | ||||
1.2.11. Dam Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Crack Head (sds) | V5 | ||||
| 2 | 1. Iron Maiden (sds) | V3 | ||||
| 3 | 2. Fractional (sds) | V3 | ||||
| 4 |
30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start left of the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers. FA: Sam Edwards, | V12 | ||||
| 5 |
The shallow crack 6m right of My Happy Place. Sit start on sidepull at bottom of crack, climb up to ledge and then top out in any direction that appeals. | V11 | ||||
1.2.12. The Electric Avenue 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
- Description:
-
These are the short walls on the next point across from Funky Town. The first section has potential for quite a few more short, moderate problems.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
V2
Start as for Electric Avenue but go left to the next set of jugs. | V2 | ||||
| 2 |
Electric Avenue
Start 1m left of arete at jug. Up jugs to top. | V2 | ||||
| 3 |
V0
Start at flat hold 1m right of arete. | V0 | ||||
1.2.13. Fred's Point 0 routes in Area
1.2.14. The Island 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.378747, -42.307424
1.2.14.1. The Island - Dam Side 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Start on undercling and go up and left, to finish as for El Nino FA: Kim Robinson, | V8 | ||||
| 2 |
Start in between El Nino and BuzzyLand at an undercling. Up to the two crimps on BuzzyLand and then straight up. | V7 | ||||
| 3 |
Slap Slap
This is a small cave around and up to the left of the main cave. Start on the slopey lip , mantle to top. | V3 | ||||
| 4 |
Fear and Loathing
Start as for Slap Slap, but go right through choss. | V3 | ||||
| 5 |
Hang start on the large jug, climb up to the crack, jam through it and battle over the top. FA: Dave James, | V1 | ||||
| 6 |
Start at back of cave and climb out on jugs and jump around lip to big slopey basin. Has been done with top out at V7 FA: Kim Robinson, | V5 | ||||
| 7 |
2nd V5
Climb out from back of cave to big jug on lip and traverse the lip rightwards to finish up La Nina. FA: Kim Robinson, | V5 | ||||
| 8 |
Oonga Boonga
Project - Start at back of cave directly in from the big jug, near the Oonga Boonga grafitti. Hard moves out the roof to the jug on the lip, and then even harder moves straight up to finish. The two halves have been done individually, both at about V9 | V9 | ||||
| 9 |
V3/4
Start as for La Nina and traverse the entire length of cave leftwards on the back wall to the start of Spirulina. FA: Kim Robinson, | V4 | ||||
| 10 |
Doug's Linkup
Start as for La Nina, and do the first move out to the flake/undercling. The head left on jugs through the roof, to finish at no. 2. | V5 | ||||
| 11 |
Start on jugs on the back wall 2m left of El Nino. Straight out to lip then finish right and up. FA: Jon Nermut, | V4 | ||||
| 12 |
La Nina Direct
Direct finish to La Nina FA: Kim Robinson, | V8 | ||||
| 13 |
Start at the right hand end of the cave. Out to lip then up and slightly left. FA: Jon Nermut, | V4 | ||||





