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Description

Sunny wall down by the river (viewable from Top Cliff) containing half a dozen worthwhile routes that are rarely visited.

Approach

As for Top Cliff, then head left along the top of this crag (as for Red Cliff access) until past the fenceline. Take right fork, then drop all the way down into the river. Hand traverse the start of Waterloo deep water solo - or rap in.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Michel Hartman, Peter Greed & Andrew___

Start beneath left end of roof 5m right of 'Fancy French Tickler' (or approx 8m left of 'Roll with the Punches'). Up the corner then move left past the roof. Trend back right to a brushed streak and head straight up to a SBB. 4BRs but some trad may be required.

FA: Mark Whitham, 1990

The start of Ten Days Without Sheep, half the Swamp Juice traverse, the wall midway between those routes. After the top bulge, move L to the belay bolt of TDWS. Small wires to a runnout finale, double ropes. Adequately cleaned and brushed (IMHO!)

FA: Paul Badenoch & Chris Oerman, 15 Jun 2008

Follow Ten Days until above the roof, then traverse 6m right along the lip then straight up (last half of the 'Intense Adult Action' project) to SBB. Anchor currenly needs replacing and the line is somewhat dirty. Requires some trad to supplement bolts.

FA: David Randabel, 1991

Line through the roof left of Roll with the Punches, finishing up Swamp Juice. A project since the 90's.

Climb short easy wall to a cam break under the roof, then stretch out and clip 1st BR on lip. Bust a sequence to the next horizontal (crux), then up blank corner past 2nd BR to a jug. The whole route drops about 8 grades thereafter for the final 10 metres (trad). Finish at good rap anchor. High level water will affect the base so plan on doing this in drier weather. Shade in summer until approx 10.00am. Shade late afternoon. Best approach is from above (rap in).

FA: Mark Simpson, 1991

The crux will explain everything. Pull onto wall and traverse right then straight up past a carrot (plate required). Up and right again a couple of moves, then straight up via a powerful undercling sequence to gain the final roof. Pull the lip (crux) and try not to leave anything behind. 5 BR's to DBB.

FA: Redanon, 25 Feb

A route is cheaper. Jump for jug off boulder (or pull onto wall above pond) at the end of the reed bed (approx. 5m left of ‘Gostrich’). Head up past horizontals trending slightly left to rooflet. Pull through via a prominent undercling then up wall via a technical crux to a good stance. Move diagonally right across face to hanging arête, then up. 6BRs to DBB. Access via rap in above Roll with the Punches or easy waterline traverse on RH side of wall below Gostrich.

FA: D. Williams, 6 Mar

Unknown first ascent starting 1m left of Gostrich LHV and going straight up past approx 4 carrot bolts. A lower chain exists at the top but any fixed gear 6m prior to that does not. Take some trad.

Avoids the crux of the original line. Start 5m left of the corner and follow rising left to right diagonal into the corner, then follow the original route.

FA: Mark Whitham

The big RH corner at the RH end of Waterloo Wall. Traverse in from the right or rap in.

FA: Mark Whitham, 1986

Follow Gostrich to dicky mantle move, then step right and jam the widening crack to a sit down rest atop the pedestal. Traverse left to the bottom of a large flake, and layback this to a bolt in the face. Continue out to the arete and finish easily.

FA: Nick Neagle, 1987

The wall right of the arete of Ghost Riders.

FA: Neil Smith (TR), 1986

Activity

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