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Description

One of the newer sport climbing areas in Adelaide. Picturesque setting by the river, nice sunny aspect (although you'll melt in summer.) You can expect the occasional loose or wobbly block - bring your helmet.

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Approach

From the picnic table at top cliff, follow fence line down the hill to the left, past a gate and a further 300 meters down hill along well defined path.

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Descent notes

Most routes have lower-offs.

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History

View timeline of historical ascents

Still under development. If you see bolts and it’s not in the guide it’s probably a closed project.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 Slime the Casbar Trad 11m

Begin just R of Quokka and climb onto a big block below the L end of the roof. Step up R (be wary of the flakes) then head directly to the arête and continue

FFA: Robert Moog Mark Whitam, 1987

2
15 * Happiness is a Warm Gun Sport 12m, 4

Start 1.5m L of the corner at the R end of the wall. Through the small roof and continue up the bulgy wall above

FFA: Robert Moog Mark Whitham, 1987

3
20 * Skunks & Skanks Sport 12m, 7

Start at the small gum tree. Monkey onto wall, continue up left to break and then through bulges.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 2011

4
20 * Tramp Stamp Sport 12m, 7

Right of nose on wall starting left of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to ledge. Pull through roof around large block on right then easily up left to chains.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

5
21 * Full Clip Sport 12m, 7

Right of nose on wall starting right of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to Break below streaked bulge. Pull through roof using blades.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

6
22 Air Sport 12m

Distinct line of ring bolts leading to very technical crux off a huge jug right near the top.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

7
21 * Earth Sport 12m

Climb right trending diagonal line to a prominent horizontal below a groove/series of vertical sidepulls. Undertake an interesting crux sequence through these to gain shelf up and left. Further jug hauling brings the anchor to hand.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

8
20 * Water Sport 12m

A good route that is not hard for the grade and is well protected. Good holds and moves the whole way.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

9
23 Fire Sport 12m

Takes the right hand line through the worst rock quality in this sector. Climb up off the hand traverse chain to a series of loose jugs and flakes (if you must).

FFA: Hamish Meffin

10
Simpson Project (open) SportProject 15m

Requires re-equipping. Line of bolts some of which have no hangers blasting up steep headwall to an anchor that has had both hangers removed. An old Mark Simpson project.

11
Simpson Project 2 (open) SportProject 15m

Same start as for Simpson Project 1, but taking a direct line up through the roof passing old fixed hangers along the way. Finish at anchor of Shelf Life.

12
The Iron Lotus SportProject 5

Project. Direct line left of Shelf Life up to chain under big roof then continuation out to arete and finish at top anchor.

Set by Mike Hillan

13
23 * Shelf Life Sport 20m, 10

Up chossy slab to corner, then launch out left across the hand traverse break (extend first 2 draws) to the nose (3rd BR), then up arete passing a 4th BR - (extend draw with long sling) to horizontal traverse line and traverse left past the chain all the way out onto the hanging arete out left (crux). Finish up final easy headwall. Take extensions for the remaining draws on the chain and the corner. Back clean to first anchor, then clean the remainder.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2015

14
21 * Half Life Sport 10m, 4

Aka ‘Pikers Variant’. Climb Shelf Life to halfway (the first anchor). Back clean.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2015

15
27 ** The Art of Seeing Sport 25m, 10

First scoped in 2004 and dismissed, then revisited after 10 years. Up easy wall 4m left of the start to Stalagmite Addiction past two bolts to mantle onto small ledge. Undercling then reach right to slopers (4th BR on face) and up the blank wall/corner to gain a good break under the roof. From here take first weakness out main roof to 'the bowl hold' on the lip. Continue through tricky terrain to good jug several moves above. An easier section through the final rooflet gets you to the chain just below cliff top. Take 10 draws (two for the chain) and back clean.

FA: Steve Kelly

16
26 ** Body Art Sport 20m, 6

Two boulder problems with a good rest in between makes this one for the boulderer. Soft for the grade as well! Start as for The Art of Seeing and follow this for 4 BRs to roof. Skip the 5th BR and the bolt on the slab (Silk Road bolt) and continue rightwards into the roof of One Hold One Quest (extended draw). Finish as for that route. 6 BR to anchor if you skip the 5th.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2016

17
24 *** Stalagmite Addiction Sport 15m, 6

Start standing on stalagmite and head up following bolts on layaway's and slopers. Move into heel hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR continue straight up to final overlap and onto headwall.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014

FFA: Justin Taylor (direct finish), 2014

18
26 ** One Hold, One Quest Sport 25m, 10

Climb all of Stalagmite Addiction Direct to the holds above its chain and continue left across the technical hanging slab to a good rest. Clip roof bolt (now easier since FA) and launch out to lip, then up short headwall to the anchor. 10 bolts to the chain. Be sure to extend the final draw past the lip and skip clipping the Addiction chain.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

19
26 M1 *** The Silk Road SportProject 40m, 22

Project. Has been freed in 3 sections. An excursion of epic proportions (80 METER ROPE REQUIRED). Climb 'Stalagmite Addiction' to the last bolt & instead of clipping the anchor head left for what feels like an eternity. Follow traverse left with 15+ slings until you hit the corner. Blast out onto the head wall up a couple of bolts to the anchor. (A super pumper of a route)

20
25 ** Addicted to Lust Sport 22m

Takes Stalagmite Addiction to beyond its crux, then above its 5th bolt above the final overlap, traverse right across a sloper into the corner and good rest (24 to here). Clip face bolt then reach right via underclings to prominent sidepull then up to flat-top jug. Choose a sequence into Lust and try not to blow it before the 7th. 8 BRs to chain. Extend 5th.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2015

21
26 *** Lust Sport 20m, 8

A masterpiece bolted by Ross Meffin, now re-equipped. The best route of its grade in the Adelaide region. Up easy wall to roof, then big move to gain horizontal. Traverse left to slopers then cut back right to nose and tricky mantle. A good rest is followed by your choice of wild dyno or big lock-off further up, but don't blow the finish!

FA: Sharik Walker, 1999

22
22 *** Blades Of Glory Sport 26m, 9

The route just left of 'Battery Acid' (previously known as Zombie Pash). Climb up face until first overhang section. Climb boldly through overhang on blades until bridging becomes possible. Technical balance required to get through next section. Climb diagonally right around arete and onto face & finish at chains on 'Battery Acid'.

Belay note: route is still cleaning up. Stand on the rock platform under the line of Battery Acid to avoid any falling debris.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

23
25 *** Battery Acid Sport 23m, 9

10 metres left of the corner at the RH end of the cliff starting 1m right of the narrow grey streak. Belay safely (route is still cleaning up) from the single bolt 3m left of the start. Easily to major ledge then boldly upward through heavily sculptured overhangs aiming for the short bottomless left facing corner. Delicately through roof to gain the head wall.

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FFA: Matthew Broadbent, 2011

24
22 ** The Hat Sport 25m, 8

Start on log lying on the ground, climb past first bolt to the terrace. Head diagonally right up into central weakness of the cliff. Climb into chimney into good lay away. Head right out onto face/head wall (thin crimps) up through another 3 bolts then to chains.

Belay note: Route is still cleaning up. Belay from underneath the rooflet to the right of the starting bolt in case of loose rock.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

25
25 Any Colour You Like Sport 18m, 7

For the boulderer. Tackles the roof right of the grade 22 corner (A Hat). From the ledge move right (BR) then up into steep terrain passing an obvious ‘doorknob’ hold, then a series of underclings, slopers and sidepulls to an interesting cut-loose crux. Mantle small shelf to gain upper headwall and continue to chain.

FFA: steve Kelly, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan Mathew Broadbent, 2011

26
17 * Around the Horn Sport 20m

Not a good choice for your belayer. Start just left of the tagged project at ground level and climb obvious crack weakness to eventually step left out onto face and finish up short headwall above Any Colour You Like.

FA: Greg Rolton

27

Tagged project since 2011

28
24 ** Power Steer Sport 25m, 7

Take the Red Corvette to it's 5th bolt (2nd one on the red arête proper), then lose the back end and bust left across the face via a sidepull and unconventional sequence into the project line to the left, clipping the last two bolts of that route.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

29
19 * Red Corvette Sport 20m, 7

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Lokomotiv' then head boldly up the face left of, and using, the exposed arête. 4 bolts straight up the arête to chains. Stay out of the loose, dangerous corner. Due to broken hold since FA, be very wary of grade, if your not comfortable leading grade 22.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

30
21 ** Lokomotiv Sport 25m, 8

Start 3m right of gum behind large boulder. Climb the red slab then through roof to chains. Be cautious of the jug at the roof...

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

31
15 * Gay Bar Loiterer Sport 22m, 8

Start behind large boulder at very low 1st bolt? Climb black slab veering R. The 5th bolt is in an unnerving slab. Finish over or R of the final block to chains.

32
15 * Water Dragon Sport 22m, 5

Start at the RH end of the vegetated ledge above the large boulder. Pass left of the first bolt over prominent bulge (difficult) and then up slabs to tri-chains.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

33
14 * Blondes in Beanies Sport 20m, 7

The LH side of the buttress. Keep the second bolt at the small roof to your left and stay on the left side of the upper flake.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

34
15 * April Sun in Cuba Sport 20m, 6

Start at the LH end of rock platform above pool. Pull over RH side of nose past bolt, then easily L to high 2nd bolt. Continue up ridge to chains. Take off a couple of grades if you climb the LHS of the initial bulge.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

35
16 * Elephunky Sport 20m, 5

The shallow scoop on the LHS of the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on LHS of ridge line.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

36
22 * Thai Boxes Sport 20m, 5

Climb directly over the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on RHS of ridge line.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

37
16 * Chode Sport 20m, 5

Several nice moves to join Thai Boxes at half-height.

FA: Greg Rolton Matthew Broadbent Michael Hillan, 2011

38
18 ** Stiletto Sport 20m, 5

Start on the higher platform right of the nose of the buttress. Stiff start with delicate moves up textured slab. Hold loss at the start has made this a tad easier since the first ascent.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

39
15 * Twitching with Steve Sport 7m, 3

Start on wall right of Stiletto (off ledge) and climb up trending right past three BRs to double BR anchor.

FA: Darren Williams, 2016

40
13 Shitty Limits Trad 13m
41
12 Juicy Loosey Trad 12m
43

FFA: Mark Witham (solo)

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