Routes in Red Cliff

Begin just R of Quokka and climb onto a big block below the L end of the roof. Step up R (be wary of the flakes) then head directly to the arête and continue

Start 1.5m L of the corner at the R end of the wall. Through the small roof and continue up the bulgy wall above

Start at the small gum tree. Monkey onto wall, continue up left to break and then through bulges.

Right of nose on wall starting left of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to ledge. Pull through roof around large block on right then easily up left to chains.

Right of nose on wall starting right of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to Break below streaked bulge. Pull through roof using blades.

Distinct line of ring bolts leading to very technical crux off a huge jug right near the top.

Climb right trending diagonal line to a prominent horizontal below a groove/series of vertical sidepulls. Undertake an interesting crux sequence through these to gain shelf up and left. Further jug hauling brings the anchor to hand.

A good route that is not hard for the grade and is well protected. Good holds and moves the whole way.

Takes the right hand line through the worst rock quality in this sector. Climb up off the hand traverse chain to a series of loose jugs and flakes (if you must).

History’s cloudy but first bolted in early 2000’s with home made hangers. Recently re equiped. Climb easy face to traverse line. Move around bulge through a tricky clip to chockstone under final roof. Thin holds gain the slab above to lower off anchor.

1 historic hanger left on route but not needed for line. First accent was to original double hangers on the lip of the roof but since extended above head wall for a better finish.

Same start as for Redemption. At the end of horizontal traverse head directly up through marginal holds before mantling over roof. Finish at Redemption anchor.

Dirty and loose. Direct line left of Shelf Life up to chain under big roof then continuation out to arete and finish at top anchor.

Up chossy slab to corner, then launch out left across the short hand traverse then up arete to horizontal traverse line and traverse left all the way out onto the hanging arete (crux). Finish up final easy headwall, or better still, just back climb from there.

Aka ‘Pikers Variant’. Climb Shelf Life to halfway (the first anchor). Back clean.

Death Trap Direct Finish. Escape from the trap then try and swim to the surface above. Possibly hard for the grade.

The style of climbing might not appeal. As for Shelf Life to 1st BR then right and through roof into the ‘groove of pain’. Unconventional climbing leads up this to a no hands rest, then break right and finish up Trading Places.

Start as for ‘The Art of Seeing’ (1 BR) and trend left into the steep crack line. Continue past an undercling crux at the 4th. A 5th BR gets you to the break line. DBB lower off.

Climb 'Trade Route' to its finish, then continue above to reach the 7th BR (normally extended). Up to a prominent handjam then run it out 3.5m to the left hand anchor.

Climb 'Camel Filter' to the handjam at the end of its crux (7th BR), then up right past final boulder problem (8th BR) to lower off.

Climb ‘Marlboro Red’ to the 7th BR then head directly up face to the start of the roof for a brief rest. Use pinches and crimps to fight through blank bulging roof clipping 2 more bolts to gain final head wall. (Extend last draw past lip of the roof to minimise rope drag)

Climb ‘Camel Filter’ to its (6th BR) then break right clipping 3 more to gain a set of jugs over the lip. Mantel and finish up the corner at The Art chains.

Takes the line between Trade Route and Art of Seeing to the anchor under the roof.

Climb 'Trade Embargo' to its 5th BR (extend draw) then break left into the traverse of Silk Rd, (BR optional but skipped on FA). From the blocky undercling of this, clip high bolt (extend draw) and launch up the groove. At the next BR (shared with Marlboro Red), head left and finish via Camel Filter.

A slightly easier variant to Baccarat King. Clip the first Baccarat King roof bolt and then traverse left via a bouldery sequence on underclings until to get to the nearest Marlboro Red footer. Then straight up from there into the Marlboro kneebar and finish for that route. The second roof bolt can be clipped from the good kneebar (if you have long arms), or the sharp blade half way along the traverse. The sharp blade looks sound, but it is worth your belayer being vigilant in case it breaks!

Mega line straight up the highest and steepest part of Red Cliff. Climb Trade Embargo to its anchor, then move slightly right and up into the roof for a good kneebar rest. Blast out directly through the roof onto the headwall and head up on desperate sidepulls into the Marlboro kneebar and finish as for that route. Credit to Redanon for bolting and cleaning the route.

Up slab as per Trade Route then right up to base of deep crack. Up & right to slopers (4th BR on face) and up the blank wall/corner to the good break under the roof. From here take first weakness out main roof to 'the bowl hold' on the lip. Continue through tricky terrain to good jug several moves above. An easier section through the final rooflet gets you to the chain just below cliff top. Take 10 draws (two for the chain) and back clean.

Climb 'Trade Route' to the traverse line, then finish as for Shelf Life. Back climb. Careful with rope drag.

Trade Route to traverse (skip Trades anchor & clip traverse BR with 2ft extension). Pull small roof left of next BR, then up into corner and out onto hanging arete. Finish as for Camel Filter. Be careful of rope direction/drag at top of Trade (or use double ropes).

[NOT CLIMBABLE AT PRESENT]. Start as for Trade Embargo, but instead of climbing right of its bolts, clip the 2nd (now moved) and then launch left into the jug before Trade's crux and finish via this route. Due to be re-equipped.

Links Winfield into Camels Don't Sweat

Take Emphysema to its crux, then instead of moving right under the final bolt, move left via gastons into the very finish of CDS.

Links Winfield into Emphysema

Climb Winfield Blue, and instead of going left into Camel Filter, finish up Marlboro Red. You will most likely be too pumped to clip the first Marlboro draw after the Winfield section, so it is recommended to skip it!

Take 'Black Market Art' into 'One Hold One Quest'.

Climb "Trade Embargo" to its 5th bolt, then traverse right and up to a high crimp before making a big move across the gap to the good break under the roof of "The Art of Seeing", then finish as for that route. Extend 5th, 6th, and 7th runner.

The Art of Seeing start into One Hold One Quest finish.

Start standing on stalagmite and head up following bolts on layaway's and slopers. Move into heel hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR continue straight up to final overlap and onto headwall.

Climb all of Stalagmite Addiction to the holds above its chain and continue left across the technical hanging slab to a good rest. Take first roof weakness via a dynamic crux out to lip, then up short headwall to the anchor. 10 bolts to the chain. Be sure to extend the final draw past the lip and skip clipping the Addiction chain.

Climb 'Stalagmite Addiction' to the last bolt & traverse left (as for Top Shelf). Continue past The Art to Trade Route anchor. Keep traversing left finishing up Shelf Life. 70+ moves. Best to employ two belayers and two ropes, and drop a line at Trade Route rest. Also requires a variety of clips to be skipped to minimise rope drag. Previously done in 3 sections by Matt who provided the vision, now linked in one by Dan, who provided the endurance.

Established in wet conditions. Name changed due to consensus. Crux just after 2nd bolt leading to 3rd then great 3D corner climbing to anchor. To clean: Best have someone follow via TR. Start often wet.

A masterpiece bolted by Ross Meffin and established by Sharik in '99. Up easy wall to roof, then big move to gain horizontal. Traverse left to slopers then cut back right to nose and tricky mantle. A good rest is followed then straight up past big move from crimps to a final horizontal. Don't blow the finish!

The obvious continuation of Lust that will have you burning for days. As for Lust to its final bolt then punch left to the hanging arete and blast up the outrageously steep headwall, don't drop the mantle!

Follows the rib and crack feature right of Lust. Starts 4m left of Blades of Glory. Up slab, then left to good stance on dark block. Move left to base of prominent white rib feature and follow this to the top of the pod. Shift right into corner and up to orange roof. Move left into final crack which joins Lust at its final resting jug (3 moves from its finish).

The route just left of 'Battery Acid' (previously known as Zombie Pash). Climb up face until first overhang section. Climb through overhang on blades until bridging becomes possible. Pull onto right face level with a large pinch. Climb diagonally right around arete and onto face & finish at chains on 'Battery Acid'. Watch the rope drag on the arete.

First 3 bolts of 'Blades of Glory' then break R on the obvious shield feature, plug some cams in the roof, then move strenuously through the bulge placing your last bit of gear. Head right to the arete and climb further than you want to above your gear before clipping the second last bolt on Blades and finishing as per that route.

10 metres left of the corner at the RH end of the cliff starting 1m right of the narrow grey streak. Belay safely (route is still cleaning up) from the single bolt 3m left of the start. Easily to major ledge then boldly upward through heavily sculptured overhangs aiming for the short bottomless left facing corner. Delicately through roof to gain the head wall.

An obvious natural weakness that starts underneath 'The Hat' and traverses up and left underneath 'Battery Acid' and finishes as per 'Mic Drop'. Bring plenty of cams, and be aware of rope drag.

Start on log lying on the ground, climb past first bolt to the terrace. Head diagonally right up into central weakness of the cliff. Climb into chimney into good lay away. Head right out onto face/head wall (thin crimps) up through another 3 bolts then to chains.

Belay note: Route is still cleaning up. Belay from underneath the rooflet to the right of the starting bolt in case of loose rock.

A direct start to ‘The Hat’. From ground level, stick clip bolt 5m left of Around the Horn then climb 'the warm up wall' to ledge. Wander up to 2nd bolt (shared with ‘Any Colour You Like’), then diagonally left to jug under roof crack. Clip 3rd BR, then get physical through the bulge passing a 4th BR on your right. At the 5th, move straight up over the small rooflet and join The Hat at the guano stained jug in the corner alcove. Finish as for the last 3 bolts of this route.

Take One Hold One Quest but exit the roof via The Art of Seeing, finishing as for that route.

The snake shaped line linking ‘Top Shelf Material’ into ‘Emphysema’ finish. Climb TSM past it’s toilet bowl crux, then traverse left under roof to finish on ‘Emphysema’ crux to chains. 70+ moves through face, slabs, roofs and cut loose crux’s over 14 bolts. Extend last draw of Stalagmite and all slab traverse bolts. Unclip final 2 draw as your being lowered off to minimise drag when pulling the rope.

The extension to One Hold, One Quest. From the chain of One Hold, reach left for a small pinch, then up to a jug. Span left and finish as for The Art at the top chain.

Stalagmite Addiction to beyond its crux, then right above its 5th bolt into the corner, then diagonally up and right into Lust and finish as for that route. It is recommended to now clip the anchor of SCT with an extension prior to joining Lust.

Alternative start to 'Blades' following the start of Lost then up the corner flakeline to join Blades of Glory just before its crux. Finish as for that.

For the boulderer. Tackles the roof right of the grade 22 corner (The Hat). From the ledge move right (BR) then up into steep terrain passing an obvious ‘doorknob’ hold, then a series of underclings, slopers and sidepulls to an interesting cut-loose crux. Mantle small shelf to gain upper headwall and continue to chain.

Start right of the alcove/overhanging corner at ground level. Climb good holds toward crack weakness (white rock) to eventually step left out onto face/arete and finish up short headwall above Any Colour You Like.

An extension from Around The Horn anchor using the last 3 bolts of The Hat to its anchor. Use slings to minimise rope drag.

Not the best quality. Belayer beware. The left side of the red face staying off the white crumbly rocks.

Not the best quality. Belayer beware. Best inspected from RC anchor prior to an ascent. Take the Red Corvette to it's 5th bolt (2nd one on the red arête proper), then bust left across the face (quite runout) via a sidepull and unconventional sequence into Cossack, clipping the last two bolts of that route.

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Lokomotiv' then head up the left side of the arete all the way (do not deviate right around the arete).

Belayer beware. Start 3m right of gum behind large boulder. Climb the red slab then through roof to chains.

Start behind large boulder at very low 1st bolt? Climb black slab veering R. The 5th bolt is in an unnerving slab. Finish over or R of the final block to chains.

Start at the RH end of the vegetated ledge above the large boulder. Pass left of the first bolt over prominent bulge (difficult) and then up slabs to tri-chains.

The LH side of the buttress. Keep the second bolt at the small roof to your left and stay on the left side of the upper flake.

Start at the LH end of rock platform above pool. Pull over RH side of nose past bolt, then easily L to high 2nd bolt. Continue up ridge to chains. Take off a couple of grades if you climb the LHS of the initial bulge.

The shallow scoop on the LHS of the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on LHS of ridge line.

Climb directly over the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on RHS of ridge line.

Several nice moves to join Thai Boxes at half-height.

Start on the higher platform right of the nose of the buttress. Stiff start with delicate moves up textured slab. Hold loss at the start has made this a tad easier since the first ascent.

Is the direct lower off line from stiletto anchor. Use small finger ledges, sharp side pulls and under clings up face to a jug before gaining mantle to anchor. Stay off Stiletto crack and Shitty Limits corner. The line will not be bolted and is still cleaning up.

The brittle red corner with a scary exit R of Shity Limits

Start on wall right of Stiletto (off ledge) and climb up trending right past three BRs to double BR anchor. Note: The line is equipped with WAVE Bolts, not standard rings.