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Description

One of the newer sport climbing areas in Adelaide. Picturesque setting by the river, nice sunny aspect (although you'll melt in summer.) You can expect the occasional loose or wobbly block - bring your helmet.

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Descent Notes

Most routes have lower-offs.

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History

Still under development. If you see bolts and it’s not in the guide it’s probably a closed project.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Skunks & Skanks Sport 7

Start at the small gum tree. Monkey onto wall, continue up left to break and then through bulges.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 2011

2
20 Tramp Stamp Sport 7

Right of nose on wall starting left of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to ledge. Pull through roof around large block on right then easily up left to chains.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

3
21 Full Clip Sport 7

Right of nose on wall starting right of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to Break below streaked bulge. Pull through roof using blades.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

4
22 Air Sport 12m
5
21 Earth Sport 12m
6
20 Water Sport 12m
7
23 Fire Sport 12m
8
24 ** Stalagmite Addiction Sport 15m, 6

Start standing on stalagmite & head up following bolts on layaway's & slopers. Move into heal hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR, move right to flat jug and rest, then up to final overlap and cut back left into final headwall. Has now been climbed direct past the 4th. Grade to be confirmed.

FFA: Michael Hillan, Matthew Broadbent, 2014

FA: Michael Hillan, Matthew Broadbent, 2014

FFA: Justin Taylor (direct finish), 25th Aug

9
26 *** Lust Sport 20m, 8

A masterpiece now re-equipped. Chain still requiring attention. THE best route of its grade in the Adelaide region. Supremely sustained with a hard start on slopers leading to your choice of wild dyno or big lock-off further up. Don't blow the finish!

FA: Sharik Walker, 1999

10
23 ** Zombie Pash Sport 26m, 9

The route just left of 'Battery Acid'. Climb up face until first overhang section. Climb boldly through overhang on blades until bridging becomes possible. Technical balance required to get through next section. Climb diagonally right around arete and onto face & finish at chains on 'Battery Acid'.

Belay note: route is still cleaning up. Stand on the rock platform under the line of Battery Acid to avoid any falling debris.

FFA: Michael Hillan, Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan, Matthew Broadbent, 2012

11
25 *** Battery Acid Sport 23m, 9

10 metres left of the corner at the RH end of the cliff starting 1m right of the narrow grey streak. Belay safely (route is still cleaning up) from the single bolt 3m left of the start. Easily to major ledge then boldly upward through heavily sculptured overhangs aiming for the short bottomless left facing corner. Delicately through roof to gain the head wall.

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FFA: Matthew Broadbent, 2011

12

Start on log lying on the ground, climb past first bolt to the terrace. Head diagonally right up into central weakness of the cliff. Climb into chimney into good lay away. Head right out onto face/head wall (thin crimps) up through another 3 bolts then to chains.

Belay note: Route is still cleaning up. Belay from underneath the rooflet to the right of the starting bolt in case of loose rock.

FFA: Michael Hillan, Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan, Matthew Broadbent, 2012

13
Project Sport Project

Closed project

14
24 ** Power Steer Sport 6

aka Drifting. Take the Red Corvette to it's 4th bolt (2nd one on the red arête proper), then lose the back end and bust left across the face via a sidepull and undercling feature into the project line to the left, clipping the last two bolts of that route. Sustained. 23/24.

FA: Steve Kelly, 31st Aug

15
22 Red Corvette Sport 20m, 7

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Lokomotiv' then head boldly up the exposed arête. 4 bolts straight up the arête to chains.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent, Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent, Michael Hillan, 2011

16
21 * Lokomotiv Sport 8

Start 3m right of gum behind large boulder. Climb the red slab then through roof to chains. Be cautious of the jug at the roof...

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

17
15 * Gay Bar Loiterer Sport 22m, 8

Start behind large boulder at very low 1st bolt? Climb black slab veering R. The 5th bolt is in an unnerving slab. Finish over or R of the final block to chains.

18
15 Water Dragon Sport 22m, 5

Start at the RH end of the vegetated ledge above the large boulder. Pass left of the first bolt over prominent bulge (difficult) and then up slabs to tri-chains.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

19
15 Blondes in Beanies Sport 20m, 7

The LH side of the buttress. Keep the second bolt at the small roof to your left and stay on the left side of the upper flake.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

20
15 April Sun in Cuba Sport 20m, 6

Start at the LH end of rock platform above pool. Pull over RH side of nose past bolt, then easily L to high 2nd bolt. Continue up ridge to chains. Take off a couple of grades if you climb the LHS of the initial bulge.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

21
16 Elephunky Sport 20m, 5

The shallow scoop on the LHS of the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on LHS of ridge line.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

22
22 * Thai Boxes Sport 20m, 5

Climb directly over the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on RHS of ridge line.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

23
16 Chode Sport 20m, 5

Several nice moves to join Thai Boxes at half-height.

FA: G Rolton?

24
19 Stiletto Sport 20m, 5

Start on the higher platform right of the nose of the buttress. Stiff start with Delicate moves up textured slab.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

25
13 Shitty Limits Trad 13m
26
12 Juicy Loosey Trad 12m