Red Cliff Mostly sport climbing37 routes in cliff
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One of the newer sport climbing areas in Adelaide. Picturesque setting by the river, nice sunny aspect (although you'll melt in summer.) You can expect the occasional loose or wobbly block - bring your helmet.©
Most routes have lower-offs.©
Still under development. If you see bolts and it’s not in the guide it’s probably a closed project.©
Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)
Line of bolts some of which have no hangers blasting up steep headwall to an anchor that has had both hangers removed. An old Mark Simpson project.
Same start as for Simpson Project 1, but taking a direct line up through the roof passing old fixed hangers along the way. Finish at anchor of Shelf Life. Relies entirely on a very dubious flake (living on borrowed time) that without it, would be impossible.
Direct line left of Shelf Life up to chain under big roof. Not cleaned as yet.
Up chossy slab to corner, then launch out left across the hand traverse break (extend first 2 draws) to the nose (3rd BR), then up arete passing a 4th BR - (extend draw with long sling) to horizontal traverse line and traverse left past the chain all the way out onto the hanging arete out left (crux). Finish up final easy headwall. Take extensions for the remaining draws on the chain and the corner. Back clean to first anchor, then clean the remainder.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2015
Aka ‘Pikers Variant’. Climb Shelf Life to halfway (the first anchor). Back clean.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2015
First scoped in 2004 and dismissed, then revisited after 10 years. Up easy wall 4m left of the start to Stalagmite Addiction past two bolts to mantle onto small ledge. Easy third clip followed by harder 4th (hint - clip LH) leads you into a funky sequence up the blank wall/corner to gain break under the roof and a rest. From here take first weakness out main roof to 'the bowl hold' and continue through tricky terrain to good jug several moves above the lip. An easier section through the final rooflet gets you to the chain just below cliff top. Take 10 draws (two for the chain) and back clean.
Set by Steve
FFA: Steve Kelly, 1st Jul
Start standing on stalagmite & head up following bolts on layaway's & slopers. Move into heal hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR, move right to flat jug and rest, then up to final overlap and cut back left into final headwall. Has now been climbed direct past the 4th making the route a lot better.
FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014
FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014
FFA: Justin Taylor (direct finish), 2014
Climb all of Stalagmite Addiction Direct to the holds above its chain and continue left across the technical hanging slab to a good rest. Clip roof bolt (now easier since FA) and launch out to lip, then up short headwall to the anchor. 10 bolts to the chain. Extend 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th and skip clipping the Addiction chain. To clean: Lower off top anchor and tramline to 1st chain, thread and clean remainder.
FA: Steve Kelly, 2014
Project. Has been freed in 3 sections. An excursion of epic proportions (80 METER ROPE REQUIRED). Climb 'Stalagmite Addiction' to the last bolt & instead of clipping the anchor head left for what feels like an eternity. Follow traverse left with 15+ slings until you hit the corner. Blast out onto the head wall up a couple of bolts to the anchor. (A super pumper of a route)
A masterpiece bolted by Ross Meffin, now re-equipped. Chain still requiring attention. THE best route of its grade in the Adelaide region. Supremely sustained with a hard start on slopers leading to your choice of wild dyno or big lock-off further up. Don't blow the finish!
FA: Sharik Walker, 1999