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Description

One of the newer sport climbing areas in Adelaide. Picturesque setting by the river, nice sunny aspect (although you'll melt in summer.) You can expect the occasional loose or wobbly block - bring your helmet.

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Descent Notes

Most routes have lower-offs.

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History

Still under development. If you see bolts and it’s not in the guide it’s probably a closed project.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Skunks & Skanks Sport 7

Start at the small gum tree. Monkey onto wall, continue up left to break and then through bulges.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Luke Adams, 2011

2
20 Tramp Stamp Sport 7

Right of nose on wall starting left of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to ledge. Pull through roof around large block on right then easily up left to chains.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

3
21 Full Clip Sport 7

Right of nose on wall starting right of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to Break below streaked bulge. Pull through roof using blades.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

4
22 * Air Sport 12m

Distinct line of ring bolts leading to very technical crux off a huge jug right near the top.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

5
21 * Earth Sport 12m

Climb right trending diagonal line to a prominent horizontal below a groove/series of vertical sidepulls. Undertake an interesting crux sequence through these to gain shelf up and left. Further jug hauling brings the anchor to hand.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

6
20 Water Sport 12m

A good route that is not hard for the grade and is well protected. Good holds and moves the whole way.

FFA: Hamish Meffin

7
23 Fire Sport 12m

Takes the right hand line through the worst rock quality in this sector. Climb up off the hand traverse chain to a series of loose jugs and flakes (if you must).

FFA: Hamish Meffin

8
Simpson Project Sport Project 15m

Line of bolts some of which have no hangers blasting up steep headwall to an anchor that has had both hangers removed. An old Mark Simpson project.

9
Simpson Project 2 Sport Project 15m

Same start as for Simpson Project 1, but taking a direct line up through the roof passing old fixed hangers along the way. Finish at anchor of Shelf Life. Relies entirely on a very dubious flake (living on borrowed time) that without it, would be impossible.

10
Hillan Project 1 Sport Project 5

Direct line left of Shelf Life up to chain under big roof. Not cleaned as yet.

11
23 * Shelf Life Sport 20m, 10

Up chossy slab to corner, then launch out left across the hand traverse break (extend first 2 draws) to the nose (3rd BR), then up arete passing a 4th BR - (extend draw with long sling) to horizontal traverse line and traverse left past the chain all the way out onto the hanging arete out left (crux). Finish up final easy headwall. Take extensions for the remaining draws on the chain and the corner. Back clean to first anchor, then clean the remainder.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2015

12
21 * Half Life Sport 4

Aka ‘Pikers Variant’. Climb Shelf Life to halfway (the first anchor). Back clean.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2015

13
Steve's Project (closed) Sport Project 10

Project line left of Stalagmite Addiction. Currently being actively worked.

Set by Steve

14
24 ** Stalagmite Addiction Sport 15m, 6

Start standing on stalagmite & head up following bolts on layaway's & slopers. Move into heal hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR, move right to flat jug and rest, then up to final overlap and cut back left into final headwall. Has now been climbed direct past the 4th making the route a lot better.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014

FFA: Justin Taylor (direct finish), 2014

15
26 ** One Hold, One Quest Sport 25m, 10

Climb all of Stalagmite Addiction Direct to the holds above its chain and continue left across the technical hanging slab to a good rest. Clip roof bolt (now easier since FA) and launch out to lip, then up short headwall to the anchor. 10 bolts to the chain. Extend 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th and skip clipping the Addiction chain. To clean: Lower off top anchor and tramline to 1st chain, thread and clean remainder.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

16
26 *** Lust Sport 20m, 8

A masterpiece bolted by Ross Meffin, now re-equipped. Chain still requiring attention. THE best route of its grade in the Adelaide region. Supremely sustained with a hard start on slopers leading to your choice of wild dyno or big lock-off further up. Don't blow the finish!

FA: Sharik Walker, 1999

17
23 *** Zombie Pash Sport 26m, 9

The route just left of 'Battery Acid'. Climb up face until first overhang section. Climb boldly through overhang on blades until bridging becomes possible. Technical balance required to get through next section. Climb diagonally right around arete and onto face & finish at chains on 'Battery Acid'.

Belay note: route is still cleaning up. Stand on the rock platform under the line of Battery Acid to avoid any falling debris.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

18
25 *** Battery Acid Sport 23m, 9

10 metres left of the corner at the RH end of the cliff starting 1m right of the narrow grey streak. Belay safely (route is still cleaning up) from the single bolt 3m left of the start. Easily to major ledge then boldly upward through heavily sculptured overhangs aiming for the short bottomless left facing corner. Delicately through roof to gain the head wall.

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FFA: Matthew Broadbent, 2011

19

Start on log lying on the ground, climb past first bolt to the terrace. Head diagonally right up into central weakness of the cliff. Climb into chimney into good lay away. Head right out onto face/head wall (thin crimps) up through another 3 bolts then to chains.

Belay note: Route is still cleaning up. Belay from underneath the rooflet to the right of the starting bolt in case of loose rock.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012

20
25 Any Colour You Like Sport 18m, 7

Tackles the roof right of the grade 22 corner (A Hat Full...) From the ledge move right (BR) then up into steep terrain passing an obvious ‘doorknob’ hold, then a series of underclings, slopers and sidepulls. Mantle small shelf to gain upper headwall and continue to chain.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2015

21

Start just left of the tagged project at ground level and climb obvious crack weakness to eventually step left out onto face and finish up short headwall above Any Colour You Like.

FA: Greg Rolton

22

Tagged project since 2012?

23
24 ** Power Steer Sport 7

aka Drifting. Take the Red Corvette to it's 5th bolt (2nd one on the red arête proper), then lose the back end and bust left across the face via a sidepull & unconventional sequence into the project line to the left, clipping the last two bolts of that route.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

24
19 Red Corvette Sport 20m, 7

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'Lokomotiv' then head boldly up the exposed arête. 4 bolts straight up the arête to chains.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

25
21 * Lokomotiv Sport 8

Start 3m right of gum behind large boulder. Climb the red slab then through roof to chains. Be cautious of the jug at the roof...

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

26
15 Gay Bar Loiterer Sport 22m, 8

Start behind large boulder at very low 1st bolt? Climb black slab veering R. The 5th bolt is in an unnerving slab. Finish over or R of the final block to chains.

27
15 Water Dragon Sport 22m, 5

Start at the RH end of the vegetated ledge above the large boulder. Pass left of the first bolt over prominent bulge (difficult) and then up slabs to tri-chains.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

28
15 Blondes in Beanies Sport 20m, 7

The LH side of the buttress. Keep the second bolt at the small roof to your left and stay on the left side of the upper flake.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

29
15 April Sun in Cuba Sport 20m, 6

Start at the LH end of rock platform above pool. Pull over RH side of nose past bolt, then easily L to high 2nd bolt. Continue up ridge to chains. Take off a couple of grades if you climb the LHS of the initial bulge.

FFA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

FA: Greg Rolton & Chris Shepherd, 2011

30
16 Elephunky Sport 20m, 5

The shallow scoop on the LHS of the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on LHS of ridge line.

FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2011

31
22 Thai Boxes Sport 20m, 5

Climb directly over the nose of the buttress continuing up slabs on RHS of ridge line.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

32
16 Chode Sport 20m, 5

Several nice moves to join Thai Boxes at half-height.

FA: G Rolton?

33
19 * Stiletto Sport 20m, 5

Start on the higher platform right of the nose of the buttress. Stiff start with Delicate moves up textured slab.

FFA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011

34
13 Shitty Limits Trad 13m
35
12 Juicy Loosey Trad 12m