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Routes

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Grade Route

Start on the left hand end of the steep wall approximately 3m right of the left arête. Up to big jug (BR) then break left to finger jug and up to 2nd BR. Cruxy moves over the bulge to third BR (old hanger), then surmount rooflet on the left side and continue up to fourth BR. Tip-toe your way right to the anchor.

FA: Rick Jeuken, 1991

Doom Wall endurance climbing! Climb Mud & Shit until after its crux (3 BR’s), then traverse right across The Toxic Avenger to the sharp jug and into Your Body Belongs to the State. 5 BR’s total to rap anchor. Recommended to skip the Toxic bolt beneath the sharp jug and clip the 3rd bolt (of Your Body Belongs to the State) instead.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

Up past first bolt (shared with Witness Protection Program) then clip 2nd BR and launch into a series of underclings (crux) to gain the big sharp jug. Move left on jugs to join M&S at its 3rd BR (old hanger) and finish as for that route. Punchy!

FA: Ross Meffin, 1991

A far better version of the previous route. Superb climbing taking The Toxic Avenger to the big sharp jug, then breaking right and up to gain 4th and 5th BR. Finish at rap anchor. One of the softer 24’s here but one of the best.

FA: Ross Meffin, 1992

Not as well protected as you might think! Still, the business is completely catered for. Takes the steepest line at the crag starting 1m right of the Toxic Avenger and following right trending diagonal past 1st BR. Clip 2nd BR from an undercling, then launch into the crux. 10 sustained moves gain the jug on Your Body Belongs to the State. Finish as for that route. As direct as they come. 4 BR’s to anchor.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

Takes no prisoners at the 1st bolt and if you survive that, watch out for the 2nd! Start directly beneath 1st bolt (approx. 3m right of Toxic Avenger) and climb the grey rock up to a big double undercling. Make the clip from here then launch into a sustained boulder problem to a prominent ‘blob’ jug (and 2nd BR). Make a hasty clip then bust a move up and right and continue to third BR. Tricky moves into the black right-facing corner lead to belay.

FA: Matt Adams, 1992

Home of the Hitmen to 3rd BR, then move directly up past arête feature above to gain the final jug and bolt of Your Body Belongs to the State. Effectively a direct finish to HotHM. 4 BR’s to anchor.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

Start 3m right of HotHM. Wander up slab to clip 1st BR under roof, then launch left across big jugs to gain 2nd BR (can be climbed direct at the same grade). Boulder past this directly to ledge, de-pump, then follow the line of bolts to the top anchor (chain).

FA: Matt Adams

Brilliant climbing linking Dark Mountainside into Home of the Hitmen into Your Body Belongs to the State. Climb past 1st and 2nd bolt of Dark Mountainside then move diagonally left into Hitmen. Clip that routes 2nd bolt at your waist and continue to its 3rd BR. Finish up via arête feature into the last bolt of Your Body Belongs to the State. Remember to breathe. 5 BR’s to anchor.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2014

Same start as for The Big Juzi Direct (LHV) but then up and right after the 1st bolt and right around bulge. Against your better judgement head for the 2nd bolt! way above. Try not to fall off. Finish at chain at top of the crag.

FA: Mark Whitham, 1989

Hard to read sequence taking the line 1m right of Dark Mountainside leading straight to ledge. From here, follow the same line of bolts to the very top anchor (chain).

FA: Matt Adams, 1996

FA: Mark Witham (solo) , 1989

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