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Description

This little area contains a multitude of boulders about 200 metres downhill from 'Mushroom Rock', and just above a slab and wall.

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Approach

Initial approach as for Mushroom Rock, using the northern access. About 30m north-west of Mushroom Rock, pick out the orange tape markers going downhill and right (as you face the valley) to Hotwired. When Hotwired comes into view, zig back diagonally left and keep going downhill. If you reach the top of a cliff don't worry - turn left and follow the top of it to reach Scaramouche.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 * Scaramouche Trad 14m

A superb but voracious hand crack overhanging by about two metres.

FA: John Smart, Shane Carton, 1979

2
25 * Major Tom Sport 10m, 6

5m right of 'Scaramouche' on the same boulder. A thin, overhanging corner flake with six bolts.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1995

3
21 Boogeybaloo Trad 9m

10m right of 'Major Tom' on the southeastern side of the 'Scaramouche' boulder. The tenuous seam, trending leftwards.

FA: Dave Sargent, Mike Law-Smith, 1985

4
14 Cul-de-Sac Crack Trad 8m

The short curving crack on the back of the 'Scaramouche' boulder, 5m right of Boogeybaloo.

FA: Shane Carson, Arthur Zawodski, 1979

5
18 Chocolate Crackle Trad 15m

Start on the hidden wall 20m opposite Boogeybaloo. A pleasant finger crack leads to a graunchy finish through a bulge.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Dave Sargent, 1985

6

The step shaped crack 40m right of 'Scaramouche'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1985

7
16 Patience Trad 10m

The nice flake in the courtyard behind 'Snatch it Back and Hold It'. Camalots 4 & 5 recommended.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Andy Pinkas, 1990

8
23 * The Ministry of Lard Sport 10m, 3

3m right of Patience, in the courtyard behind 'Snatch it Back and Hold It'. A really nice thin flake with three bolts.

FA: Ken Luck, Mike Law-Smith, 1995

9
22 * Orange Red Sport 12m, 3

The great little arete 100m right of 'Scaramouche' (as you face it). Sustained and technical climbing with three bolts. Gear belay.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Paul Daniel, 1991

10
17 Corpechon Trad 20m

The crack splitting the wall about 20 metres downhill of 'Scaramouche'. Good crack climbing.

FA: Dave Moten, Julie Styles, Adam Blizzard, Kieran Lawton, 1996

Open trips

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