The Cereals Buttress Mostly trad climbing23 routes in sector
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From Simple Simon Slabs, walk downhill for 25m, then trend diagonally left and downhill for another 30m, with boulders blocking your way on the downhill side. When the boulders run out turn sharply right and head downhill for 20m, with a wall of boulders on your right, to a tree with a rope tied around it. (If you keep following the wall of boulders you will reach the back of the Cereals Buttress, from where you can pass through a passageway to reach 'Bran Buds' and 'The Tin Drum'). Follow the rope between the boulders, then down a choss-covered slab. When you step off the slab, 'Julius Caesar' is on your right. Directly ahead of you, a gap leads through to 'The Cereals Buttress' proper.©
Ethic inherited from The Cloisters
Although these days there are a number of excellent sport climbs, the original ascentionists were staunchly traditional, having this to say:
"We, as discoverers and first ascensionists, have not and will not tolerate the use of bolts, pegs, shady aid or chalk. Attempt to use any of these and be prepared to answer to us. We have respected the natural state of the area and expect that you will also."©
Forgettable. On the uphill side of the boulder to the left of the tree with a rope tied around it. Up the mossy crack to a break, step right and up to the top. Rap off the branch.
FA: Phil Georgeff, Dee Breger, 1988