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Approach

From 'Zoo Fear' walk east-south-east, going diagonally downhill and left. There are a few alternative approach gullies. The right-most one is open but with loose soil; the middle one is full of nice ferns; and the left-hand one is a bit steeper and also ferny. Take your pick of these. After about 30m, at the bottom of the gully, turn left and contour across to the left-hand end of 'Astral Wall' proper.

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Descent Notes

For 'Silk Degrees', scramble down the gully just to its right. For the other routes, scramble down at the far right end of the wall.

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Ethic inherited from The Cloisters

Although these days there are a number of excellent sport climbs, the original ascentionists were staunchly traditional, having this to say:

"We, as discoverers and first ascensionists, have not and will not tolerate the use of bolts, pegs, shady aid or chalk. Attempt to use any of these and be prepared to answer to us. We have respected the natural state of the area and expect that you will also."

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Routes

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Grade Route

The following three climbs are in one or other of the ferny approach gullies.

1
19 Mandolin Wind Trad 10m

The left crack in left-most (upper) approach gully with a hard start.

FA: John Smart, Norm Booth, Ray Lassman, 1978

2
21 Gasoline Alley Trad 10m

The crack just right of 'Mandolin Wind'. Looks easy but is quite hard and technical.

FA: John Smart, Norm Booth, 1978

3
19 One for the Road Trad 10m

In the middle approach gully. The crack at the right-hand end of the wall, with the chockstone providing some interest.

FA: John Smart, Ray Lassman, Rohan Reynolds, Hugh Ward, 1978

The following climbs are on Astral Wall proper.

4
15 *** Silk Degrees Trad 15m

The perfect crack, almost certainly harder than 15

FA: Ray, John, Norm, Humzoo, Rohan Reynolds, Hugh Ward, 1978

5
21 Betty Blue Sport 25m, 4

Start 10m right of 'Silk Degrees'. Up the wall on good flakes past three bolts to a slab ledge. Up onto the slab above past another bolt (crux), then walk easily up the moss to a tree belay.

FA: Mike Peck, Dave Sargent, 1988

6
18 * Zoot Allures Trad 15m

Good. The leftmost of three cracks on the upper half of the wall, 4m right of 'Betty Blue'. Nice bridging with an occasional fingerlock.

FA: Norm Booth, John Smart, Ray Lassman, 1978

7
15 Black Summer Rain Trad 15m

The hand crack with a wobbly wedged pedestal at its base.

FA: Ray, John, Norm, Rohan, Hugh, Humzoo, 1978

8

The chimney.

FA: Ray Lassman, John Smart, Norm Booth, 1978