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It is easiest to reach these climbs via the track on the south side of Legoland (the first you come to when walking in from the carpark). This brings you to the right-hand end of the sector, near 'Leaning Tower'.

It is also possible to approach from the 'North-West' sector by weaving through boulders on the valley side of the outcrop, which also arrives near 'Leaning Tower'.

There is a circuitous southern exit from the cave, which pops out near 'Padarn' and 'Anticipation'.



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Grade Route
16 Padarn Trad 12m

Start: in the open cave facing the valley, at the left end of the sector. Climb the crack which is formed by a slab and the roof.

FA: Chris Larque, Norm Booth, Damien Jones & Lincoln Hall, 1974

24 Anticipation Sport 20m, 8

A nice traverse to take your mind off all those slabs.

Start on the edge of the open cave facing the valley, with 'Padarn' at your back. Traverse right past eight bolts. At the last bolt pull up and mantle to a double bolt belay.

To descend, scramble down the back of the boulder at a short corner. If your second isn't game to follow, then reverse the climb or backjump to clean.

FA: Oliver Story, 2011

V3 Blain Boulder 5m

The crack in the roof of the windy tunnel, finishing up the squeeze chimney.

FA: B.Aikman, 2012

20 * Inside Straight Trad 20m

The classic off-width at the left end of the wall.

FA: John Smart, Ray Lassman, Ajax Greene & Norm Booth, 1978

21 Games on the Freeway Mixed 20m, 1

Start five metres right of Inside Straight at a crack and corner, initially overhanging. Up the crack for about five metres until an awkward move can be made to clip a bolt (carrot) on the left wall. Continue leftwards up the wall (crux) to a ledge. Move up to a short crack on the left then up to a horizontal break and easily to the top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Mike Peck, John Wood & John Carlson, 1983


Start as for 'Games on the Freeway'. Much better and more direct than the original. Up the crack to the little saddle then left up the slight groove and arete with "subtle" RP placements.

FA: Neil Montgomery, Hira Verick & Allana Blight, 1990

17 Child's Play Trad 25m

A crack and corner with a hard start. Up the crack and corner, descend into the chimney and finish as for 'Kid's Stuff'. First climbed in two pitches.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth (alt.), 1973

8 Kid's Stuff Trad 22m

From back when kids were tough. The horrendous chimney five metres right of 'Child's Play', and just left of 'Leaning Tower', originally done in two pitches.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth (alt.), 1973

18 Leaning Tower Trad 35m

An enjoyable start but poorly protected at the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1973

22 * Flying Legal Mixed 25m, 2

Good, sustained face climbing. Start on the arete 5m right and around the corner from 'Leaning Tower'. Climb the wall past two bolts to a bush. Up the flake and arete to the top.

FA: Richard Watts & Rob Topfer, 1984

20 Manic Depression Trad 22m

The imposing off-width corner, just right of 'Flying Legal', which overhangs at the top.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974

FFA: John Smart & Norm Booth, 1975

12 Eavil Weevil Trad 20m 2

The mossy crack a few metres right of 'Manic Depression'. Done in two pitches.

FA: PEter Mills & Lincoln Hall (alt.), 1974


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