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Description

A lovely little area with parking very close nearby (circa 50 metres) that holds a number of excellent problems.

A very compact and easily accessible bouldering with almost every style. A number of problems are recreated and climb like the originals before the fires. The rock quality is quite good for the area.

Note from Justin: Hi - I cleaned up the area post fires in 2008 and 2011. I number of new problems where done during this period that are not in this crag guide. At some point I will get to update the info in this forum or another bouldering guide - after the new guiding guide is published. Cheers.

Access issues inherited from Laurel Camp loop

Dirt roads, but all 2wd usable if you are slow and careful

Approach

After you turn onto Laurel Camp Road, you drive for 2.9km continuing straight and passing Old Blackboy Road and Pierces Creek Road to get to Oakey Creek road. Continue forwards and leftish and you'll keep going on a fairly good road with a few bits of shale in it (which also leads towards Tumblers). You will find the parking area which is up the top of a steep road and off to the right you can see some intersecting roads - see topo/photo. Continue directly forward from the parking area as per the photo - you'll cross a small hummock and find a dirt bike track going right around the bouldering area - follow the track until you see the first small boulder ahead and on your left, then head forward just to the left of that boulder about 20 metres on a slightly indistinct trail to the centre of the area.

Park on the Laurel Camp Road 100 meters before the large T intersection and boulder with obvious crack down face. Follow the trail away from the road until you spot the 6m granite boulder through the trees.

Ethic inherited from Pierce's Creek

A number of problems have been established and reestablished since the fires and to a large extent climb like the original problems.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the arete/spike. As easy or hard as you want to make it, really...

Up through burly underclings to long throw to a pocket, then thrash your way around trying to find some way to keep yourself connected to the rock. Hit the knife edge apex, then easily slab your way up to finish. The topo foreshortens the climb considerably - it's no lowball, particularly with the insecure thrutching you will have to enter into up top.

Up past a chipped hold onto a chipped scoop then throw a long way for a rail. Unusually for granite, it's reasonably overhung. Get feet set somehow and mantle.

Up the slab to the left of the actual (overhung) climb. V1? Unlikely.

Similar to the problem around the corner, this is a bit of a crack climb that peters out into slab. One chipped hold.

Up the crack with a nastyish landing below onto a small boulder if you've not eaten your wheaties. Thins out as it ascends and becomes quite technical until you reach the rail for 'Public Enemy'. Harder/changed since the Canberra fires.

Up past chipped pockets with a very high step (difficult to impossible if you're tall) and a hidden hold on the right to gain the crack. Traverse right to finish as for 'Public Enemy' then mantle up calmly... Breathe in, breathe out.

Up the slabby bulge, smearing, directly opposite Public Enemy. Real slabbing technique needed, no real holds here.

A highball problem starting at a sit start down low and ending around the corner of the boulder at a heinous mantle at the 5 metre mark above a semi-sketchy landing. Follow the shallow crack/rail all the way. Crux is the first part before you hit the corner, particularly making a cross through a fairly shallow pocket. 10+ metres of climbing, despite the 5 metre height.

FA: Justin Ryan

The second half of 'Public Enemy'. Use the incut rail and the chipped hold to get set on the arete and head left and up to top out. Takes out all the crux moves of 'Public Enemy'.

Warmup. Not really even V0, just something to get your body moving.

Ditto to #12.

Take the blankest line possible near the end of the boulder. Don't use the flake.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Cute little slab, but short and not particularly heady.

Traverse from a burly sit-start very reminiscent of 'Phone Sex', round the corner and up through a single chipped hold and very balancy move to the top.

As per the sit-start for Rinaldo but head straight up and top out as for 'Dandruff'.

Start on the highest chipped holds you can reach (above the traversing problem Rinaldo), then mantle over the bulge using some reasonable holds and walk up to top out. A lower start is possible which could go from the same start as Rinaldo, and would be significantly harder. Named Dandruff for the exfoliating nature.

FA: Scott Pearce, 2012

Instead of continuing Public Enemy past the arete, head directly up past a committing mantle. A good addition that was long seen, but never climbed.

The easiest of the 3 no hands problems. Can be done with a running start in sneakers to much hilarity.

The thinnest of the no hand slabs.

A very cruxy high step will make you wish your hands were useful.

Obvious highball from low block utilizing the crack on the left side of the large boulder. Natural line

200m past the parking area is a 3m boulder with a crack going right up the middle, sit start. Be warned it's very sharp.

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