Playboy All bouldering23 routes in sector
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A lovely little area with parking very close nearby (circa 50 metres) that holds a number of excellent problems.
After you turn onto Laurel Camp Road, you drive for 2.9km continuing straight and passing Old Blackboy Road and Pierces Creek Road to get to Oakey Creek road. Continue forwards and leftish and you'll keep going on a fairly good road with a few bits of shale in it (which also leads towards Tumblers). You will find the parking area which is up the top of a steep road and off to the right you can see some intersecting roads - see topo/photo. Continue directly forward from the parking area as per the photo - you'll cross a small hummock and find a dirt bike track going right around the bouldering area - follow the track until you see the first small boulder ahead and on your left, then head forward just to the left of that boulder about 20 metres on a slightly indistinct trail to the centre of the area.
There is a bolt on top of the 'Public Enemy' boulder and a rope attached, allowing people to get down without downclimbing (which in some cases could be death defying). The rope's been there for years - you've been warned.
Ethic inherited from Pierce's Creek Bouldering
Quite a few climbs out here have been chipped, and some are completely chipped. That said, there's enough problems here; please don't chip or drill any more.
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Up through burly underclings to long throw to a pocket, then thrash your way around trying to find some way to keep yourself connected to the rock. Hit the knife edge apex, then easily slab your way up to finish. The topo foreshortens the climb considerably - it's no lowball, particularly with the insecure thrutching you will have to enter into up top.
Up past a chipped hold onto a chipped scoop then throw a long way for a rail. Unusually for granite, it's reasonably overhung. Get feet set somehow and mantle.
Up the slab to the left of the actual (overhung) climb. V1? Unlikely.