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Description

A lovely little area with parking very close nearby (circa 50 metres) that holds a number of excellent problems.

Approach

After you turn onto Laurel Camp Road, you drive for 2.9km continuing straight and passing Old Blackboy Road and Pierces Creek Road to get to Oakey Creek road. Continue forwards and leftish and you'll keep going on a fairly good road with a few bits of shale in it (which also leads towards Tumblers). You will find the parking area which is up the top of a steep road and off to the right you can see some intersecting roads - see topo/photo. Continue directly forward from the parking area as per the photo - you'll cross a small hummock and find a dirt bike track going right around the bouldering area - follow the track until you see the first small boulder ahead and on your left, then head forward just to the left of that boulder about 20 metres on a slightly indistinct trail to the centre of the area.

Descent Notes

There is a bolt on top of the 'Public Enemy' boulder and a rope attached, allowing people to get down without downclimbing (which in some cases could be death defying). The rope's been there for years - you've been warned.

Ethic inherited from Pierce's Creek Bouldering

Quite a few climbs out here have been chipped, and some are completely chipped. That said, there's enough problems here; please don't chip or drill any more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V0 #1 Boulder 3m
2
V0 #2 Boulder 3m
3
V0 #3 Boulder 3m

Up the arete/spike. As easy or hard as you want to make it, really...

4
V1 #4 Boulder 3m
5
V8 #5 Respect is buring Boulder 4m

Up through burly underclings to long throw to a pocket, then thrash your way around trying to find some way to keep yourself connected to the rock. Hit the knife edge apex, then easily slab your way up to finish. The topo foreshortens the climb considerably - it's no lowball, particularly with the insecure thrutching you will have to enter into up top.

6
V6 #6 Boulder 3m

Up past a chipped hold onto a chipped scoop then throw a long way for a rail. Unusually for granite, it's reasonably overhung. Get feet set somehow and mantle.

7
V1 #7 Boulder 3m

Up the slab to the left of the actual (overhung) climb. V1? Unlikely.

8
V4 #8 Boulder 5m

Similar to the problem around the corner, this is a bit of a crack climb that peters out into slab. One chipped hold.

9
V5 * #9 Boulder 5m

Up the crack with a nastyish landing below onto a small boulder if you've not eaten your wheaties. Thins out as it ascends and becomes quite technical until you reach the rail for 'Public Enemy'. Harder/changed since the Canberra fires.

10
V4 #10 Boulder 5m

Up past chipped pockets with a very high step (difficult to impossible if you're tall) and a hidden hold on the right to gain the crack. Traverse right to finish as for 'Public Enemy' then mantle up calmly... Breathe in, breathe out.

11
V8 *** #11 Public Enemy Boulder 12m

A highball problem starting at a sit start down low and ending around the corner of the boulder at a heinous mantle at the 5 metre mark above a semi-sketchy landing. Follow the shallow crack/rail all the way. Crux is the first part before you hit the corner, particularly making a cross through a fairly shallow pocket. 10+ metres of climbing, despite the 5 metre height. Marked as having access for top-roping, but be careful getting on top, you could go either way and have a nasty little bounce. Grade updated to reflect the lack of footers of which many small (and large) flakes look to have been knocked off over time. Crux is the cross-over move through an insecure half-pad notch.

FA: Justin Ryan

12
US V4 Just Disliked Boulder 6m

The second half of 'Public Enemy'. Use the incut rail and the chipped hold to get set on the arete and head left and up to top out. Takes out all the crux moves of 'Public Enemy'.

13
V0- #12 Boulder 3m

Warmup. Not really even V0, just something to get your body moving.

14
V0 #13 Boulder 4m

Ditto to #12.

15
V0 #14 Boulder 3m
16
US V2 Between 14 and 15 Boulder 5m

Take the blankest line possible near the end of the boulder. Don't use the flake.

FA: David Nott, 2013

17
V1 #15 Boulder 3m

Cute little slab, but short and not particularly heady.

18
V4 #16 Boulder 3m
19
V7 #17 Ronaldo Boulder 3m

Traverse from a burly sit-start very reminiscent of 'Phone Sex', round the corner and up through a single chipped hold and very balancy move to the top.

20
US V6 Ronaldo direct Boulder 4m

As per the sit-start for Rinaldo but head straight up and top out as for 'Dandruff'.

21
V2 to V3 Dandruff Boulder 4m

Start on the highest chipped holds you can reach (above the traversing problem Rinaldo), then mantle over the bulge using some reasonable holds and walk up to top out. A lower start is possible which could go from the same start as Rinaldo, and would be significantly harder. Named Dandruff for the exfoliating nature.

FA: Scott Pearce, 2012

22
V1 #18 Boulder 3m
23
V0 #19 Boulder 3m