Point Glorious Mostly sport climbing10 routes in crag
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Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer, as well as a small number of nice climbs on good rock.
Located in Mapleton National Park. Climbing and abseiling are allowed here and anchor rings have been provided at various points along the top to facilitate this.
'Point Glorious' is in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. To get there, drive through the township of Yandina. Follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes before taking Buckby Rd to the right, then follow the "Point Glorious" signs. About 15 minutes is on dirt road with the last section signed as "high clearance 4WD recommended". Ignore this, the road is fine for 2WDs.
The climbs are under the lookout. Most are accessed via a signposted track heading off the road to the left just as you're arriving at the carpark.
Starts 2m right of 'Heartattack and Vine'. A few hard moves through the overhang then up easily to top. Dirty, but the top provides a good, alternate finish to 'H&V'. 6 ringbolts, good idea to preclip the first, anchors shared with 'H&V'.
FA: Matt Schimke, 2011
Scramble up easily to base of intimidating overhang. Fun pumpy moves through this (+/- a heartattack!) to the slab above. Tend left then right up the slab to a massive ledge with anchors on the right. 7 ringbolts.
FA: Matt Schimke, 2011
Start at the lefthand end of the buttress. Follow a crack straight up to the perched boulder. Traverse right along the slabby ledge to an awesome splitter crack. Up this to finish over the top.
FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes & Oliver Rickford
The next two routes are accessed by rapping in. To find the rap point, jump the righthand end (looking out) of the metal fence of the main part of the lookout. Scramble down a rough route and across to the top of a buttress with a big perched rock (Egg Rock). Walk around the left side of Egg Rock and you will find a rap station. Rap straight over the edge (10m) onto a small ledge, from where both routes start. The ledge is big enough to accommodate 3 or 4 people.
Starts up easily from ledge for 2 bolts before moving right onto the face. Take a step right at the overhang and up the finger crack to a steep topout and chains on boulder above. Terry insists everyone mantles the very top 'egg' boulder and stands on top victoriously for the full ascent!
FA: Terry Forbes & Matt Schimke