Point Glorious Mostly sport climbing

9 routes in crag

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Description

Beautiful views and picnic area are on offer, as well as a small number of nice climbs on good rock.

Access issues

Located in Mapleton National Park. Climbing and abseiling are allowed here and anchor rings have been provided at various points along the top to facilitate this. However bolting is not allowed - don't add more bolts and keep a low profile if you're using existing bolts.

Approach

'Point Glorious' is in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. To get there, drive through the township of Yandina. Follow Cooloolabin Rd for about 15 minutes before taking Buckby Rd to the right, then follow the "Point Glorious" signs. About 15 minutes is on dirt road with the last section signed as "high clearance 4WD recommended". Ignore this, the road is fine for 2WDs.

The climbs are under the lookout. Most are accessed via a signposted track heading off the road to the left just as you're arriving at the carpark.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs are listed right to left, as you approach them.

The first three climbs are on the buttress seen straight ahead as you scramble down the access track.

1
26 * Kidney Cave Sport 15m, 5

Straight up the steep orange face. Climb carefully through the loose rock at the start before encountering some bouldery sequences on the steep wall. Big moves lead out left, before moving back right to the final bolt and a hard topout. 5 ringbolts, finish on the same platform as 'Future History'.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

2
24 * One Less Kidney Sport 15m, 5

Linkup. Climb 'Kidney Cave' to the third bolt, then move left to finish up the last two bolts of 'Future History'. A good way to avoid the crux of KC.

FA: Matt Schimke

3
18 * Future History Sport 15m, 5

Climbs the arête on the left of the 'Kidney Cave' face. Start between a small tree and an old tree trunk. Up to ledge on left then straight up arête. The climb finishes on a platform without anchors so you'll need to do an easy scramble up 5m to the top of the cliff proper to use a couple of the abseil rings.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2010

The next two climbs (plus a project) climb the overhang just around the corner left from 'Future History'.

4
22 Reaching For Olives Sport 20m, 6

Starts 2m right of 'Heartattack and Vine'. A few hard moves through the overhang then up easily to top. Dirty, but the top provides a good (probably better) alternate finish to 'H&V'. 6 ringbolts, good idea to preclip the first, anchors shared with 'H&V'.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

5
20 ** Heartattack and Vine Sport 20m, 7

Scramble up easily to base of intimidating overhang. Fun pumpy moves through this (+/- a heartattack!) to the slab above. Tend left then right up the slab to a massive ledge with anchors on the right. 7 ringbolts.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2011

6
Project Matt Sport Project

Two metres left of 'Heartattack and Vine'.

'Old Greg's Crack' climbs the tall vertical buttress with the perched boulder on top to the left of the 'Heartattack and Vine' overhang.

7
20 * Old Greg's Crack Trad 20m

Start at the lefthand end of the buttress. Follow a crack straight up to the perched boulder. Traverse right along the slabby ledge to an awesome splitter crack. Up this to finish over the top.

FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes, Oliver Rickford

The next two routes are accessed by rapping in. To find the rap point, jump the righthand end (looking out) of the metal fence of the main part of the lookout. Scramble down a rough route and across to the top of a buttress with a big perched rock (Egg Rock). Walk around the left side of Egg Rock and you will find a rap station. Rap straight over the edge (10m) onto a small ledge, from where both routes start. The ledge is big enough to accommodate 3 or 4 people.

8
21 * Roc Egg Rock Sport 12m

Starts up easily from ledge for 2 bolts before moving right onto the face. Take a step right at the overhang and up the finger crack to a steep topout and chains on boulder above.

FA: Terry Forbes, Matt Schimke

9

Same start as 'Roc Egg Rock' but veers left after the second bolt. Interesting slab moves until a stopper crux over bulge to high anchors out left.

FA: Matt Schimke

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