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The Lighthouse 81 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 23m
  • Style: Trad,Sport and Top Rope
  • Ascents: 584

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Description:© (koala)

Routes are described in order from bayside to the seaside - that is, from right to left when looking out to sea.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Under The Fence

Ascends the short face half a metre right of the western fence. Abseil down either side of the fence to a sloping ledge, use the abseil rope as a belay. The line goes up the flake passing a bolt at the top.

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun, 2003

19
Trad 5m
2 *** Superliner

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the middle of the face until you reach a small ledge about 5 metres above the half way ledge. There is a 2 carrot bolt belay at this ledge. Climb the arête past cam breaks and 7 carrot bolts. Go left around the arête at the difficult sections near the bottom and top. Clip the last bolt from around the arête. Take a long sling for the thread runner near the top.

FA: , 2003

19
Trad 25m
3 Two Ounces
15
Trad 30m
4 Anchovy Express

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: Start on Halfway ledge as for 'Coleridge'

FA: G. James, P. Bridges, 1998

19
Mixed 30m , 7
5 Guiding Light

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

FA: Ian Brown, Tom Williams, 1988

20
Trad 40m
6 Coleridge

Start: Start on same ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, 1988

16
Trad 40m
7 Sunset Strip

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun,

17
Trad 20m
8 Hollywood Boulevard

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

FA: , 2002

16
Trad 20m
9 * Battle Cruiser

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

20
Trad 15m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
10 *** Seahawk

Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).

  1. 37m (25) Start up All Guns Blazing for four bolts then take the left line up the steep imposing wall. Crank endlessly to tiny ledge and double ring belay. You can link this with next pitch if you have the guns and draws.

  2. 12m (25) Bouldery moves up and right on delicious smooth rock to more major ledge.

  3. 35m (20) Carefully up the brittle undercut start then marhy up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Matt Brooks (p 1 & 2), Neil Monteith (p3), 2013

25
Sport 84m , 14
11 *** All Guns Blazing

Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!

  1. 36m (23) Unrelenting pumper. Starts from sea level at left end of massive steep wall - starting off rock platform. Easy start up jugs to meet right end of rooflet at 10m. Now plow direct up the overhung wall above on mostly big jugs. They won't feel like jugs by the time you finish though! Finish with a spicy runout to small ledge on the left (bring a single bolt plate for this belay). Alternativly continue into 2nd pitch (50m pitch!) 10+ bolts in this pitch.

  2. 14m (24) A bouldery little number. Out right from the ledge and over tricky bulge (random FHs) and rightwards on great glossy rock to next ledge and bolt belay. 4 bolts.

  3. 36m (23) Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

RS: Neil Monteith,

FA: Neil Monteith (p1 & 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 2013

24
Sport 86m
12 *** Atmosfear

Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing.

FA: Neil Monteith, Matt Brooks, 2013

24
Sport 50m , 18
13 Destroyer

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

FA: , 2003

21
Trad 15m
14 Voyager

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / James Hardy,

16
Trad 15m
15 James Hardy 1000

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top. Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

FA: , 2002

19
Trad 15m
16 Typhoon

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun, 2003

18
Trad 15m
17 Rapt in Rubber

Exposed - Travers left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurian'

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, 2000

21
Mixed 15m , 3
18 * Centurian

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner.

Start: Same start as RIR

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

16
Trad 10m
19 Plunging Testicles

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurian' ledge

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns, Escaba, 2000

25
Mixed 10m , 2
20 ** Impact Zone

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

15
Trad 10m
21 ** Women and Children First

FA: Ian Brown, Bob McMillan, 1989

15
Trad 12m
22 * Delusions of Grandeur

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

24
Mixed 20m , 3
23 ** Titan I Am

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out.

FA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, 2013

23
Mixed 25m , 10
24 Oarsome
17
Trad 20m
25 Australia's Hardest Climb

Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Climb up past U bolts and one or two cams.

21
Trad 15m
26 ** Whale order bride

Rap off carrots located in middle of embankment, to two carrots located at good stance 15 mtrs down. Climbing line of bolts to the right hand line of rings

FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 2012

22
Sport 15m
27 Wolf

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon, Cerin McMillan., 2000

18
Trad 15m
28 *** Little Red Riding Hood

Traverse out right and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There is one carrot at the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embayment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

FA: Steve Burns, Greg James, Bede Harrington, 2000

17
Trad 25m
29 Greg's Crack

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

FA: Greg James,

20
Trad 20m
30 Czech Mate
19
Trad 20m
31 ** When the Levee Breaks

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four brackets and pockets for cams.

FA: Greg James, 2000

19
Trad 20m
32 ** Big Bad Wolf

Starts under the line of rings 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". Hard crux and will be desperate if you are a little short.

FA: Will Watkins, 2012

23
Sport 20m
33 * Spiders And Space Cadets

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery,

15
Trad 20m
34 ** Proudly Penguin

Start: Start 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

FA: Neil Plant, Robyn Cleland, 2000

21 R
Mixed 20m , 1
35 ** Destructive Wombats

Start: Start 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

21
Mixed 20m , 2
36 Struggle Streets

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

21
Trad 25m
37 Trade Wind

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

18
Trad 15m
38 Fat Man's Misery

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta,

16
Trad 15m
39 Krill-A-Whale

Start down to the left of the arete.

18
Mixed 30m , 2
40 ** Hooray for Hippies

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top

FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 2012

18
Sport 28m
41 The Poseidon Adventure

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta, Robert Dun,

15
Trad 15m
42 The Brown Streak

FA: Greg James,

22
Trad
43 * Sieze The Day

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 2012

23
Sport Project 28m
44 Schrapnel In My Backyard

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits, Chris Trengove, 2007

21
Mixed 15m , 4
45 ** Mister Bean

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... :).

FA: Greg James, 2000

24
Sport 30m , 10
46 ** Fuzzy Logic

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

FA: Greg JAmes, 2000

23
Trad 25m
47 ** Neptune

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004

17
Trad 15m
48 Grandmas ta Flash

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

FFA: Mike,

22
Sport 15m
49 * Unorthodox Liasons

Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section.

FA: Will Watkins, Rick fatty fillips, 2012

23
Sport 15m , 5
50 ** Liquid Insanity Direct Finish

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 2000

24
Trad 35m
51 *** Liquid Insanity

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23
Trad 35m
52 *** Liquid Daze

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

FA: Greg James, Adrian Kladnig, 1992

23
Trad 30m
53 Fight or Flight

Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge.

FA: R.Dunn, Matt Scoles, 2006

22
Sport 15m
54 Melody Lines
19
Trad 15m
55 Test

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1998

15
Trad 15m
56 Whistle
16
Trad 15m
57 Grey

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988

16
Trad 15m
58 ** Just Technical
22
Sport 15m
59 * We Are Amphibious

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007

22
Sport 10m
60 *** Rex Hunt's Love Child

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts.

FA: Greg James, 2000

21
Trad 30m
61 *** Northern Exposure

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

FA: Greg James, 2000

22
Trad 30m
62 *** Bad Luck Streak

Start: Start at the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988

20
Trad 30m
63 Moving Targets
18
Trad 30m
64 ** Eviction Order

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

26
Mixed 15m , 3
65 Sticky Date Pudding
22
Trad 15m
66 Froffwidth
19
Trad 15m
67 *** Two Minute Hate
23
Sport 12m
68 Real Men Have Man Boobs

FFA: R Sonnerdale,

19
Trad 15m
69 American Bikini Jam
24
Trad 12m
70 (New route directly up arete)

Not in current guidebook but it was there last time I was. --Lee.

Unknown 12m
71 Natural Selection
19
Trad 20m
72 Rubble Without a Cause
18
Trad 40m
73 (Ivan's Project)

Bolted seam.

Sport Project
74 (Zac's Project)

2m R.

Sport Project
75 High Society

FA: Zac Vertress,

28
Sport 25m
76 Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream
25
Trad 40m
77 Bung Eye

Bolts, but marked with trad symbol in the guide. Is there any gear on this?

26
Sport 20m
78 Bondage and Discipline
22
Trad 40m
79 Peristalsis
16
Trad 40m
80 ** The Whip

Start as for mind the gap. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

FA: George Broadfoot, 2013

26
Mixed 25m , 3
81 ** Mind the Gap

Great position and cool climbing.

22
Mixed 40m , 3